DIY oil gun. Do-it-yourself waste oil stove

If you own a private household, then you probably have more than once faced the question of the need to heat your home and utility rooms, such as garages and workshops. For this, different fan heaters are usually used, however, there is no need to purchase such a heater at all, instead you can use a heat gun, which you can do yourself.

Description of the gun in development

The heat gun structurally differs little from gas variety. It has a burner that is designed to work with liquid fuel. There is also a fan in the design for pumping air. Instead of the gas valve, in this case, a fuel pump is installed, it is responsible for pumping fuel from the tank, which is located under the body. This is the main difference.

According to the principle of gas heaters, mining equipment can have one of two versions, the first involves the use of direct, while the second - indirect heating. Before you are made heat gun on waste oil, you should take into account that waste combustion products are much more toxic compared to natural gas.

This indicates that even in a well-ventilated room, such a heater will create unfavorable conditions in a short time. If the device is equipped with a separate gas outlet and a pipe for flue gases, then the gun can be used everywhere. In order to ensure mobility, it is necessary to strengthen the frame with wheels to the body.

The design of the heat gun in development

If you are going to assemble a waste oil heat gun, then you should become more familiar with what such a design consists of and how it works. The lower part is a fuel tank. The device is placed on top, it connects the fan and the combustion chamber. Fuel will be supplied to the latter, while the fan will blow hot air into the room.

For ignition and transportation of working out, it is necessary to use:

connecting tube;
nozzle;
filter;
fuel pump.

The electric motor should be fixed to the fan. In the central part of the body, it is necessary to fix the combustion chamber. It will look like a metal cylinder, the diameter of which is 2 times smaller than the diameter of the case. When mining is burned, the products of combustion will be removed, coming through the tube from the chamber. In order to warm up a room with an area of 600 m 2, about 10 liters of fuel will be needed.

Carrying out assembly

If you are going to assemble a waste oil heat gun, then its lower case must be located 15 cm from the top. In order for the oil tank not to overheat, it should be made of a material that has low thermal conductivity. To do this, you need to use a metal tank that is covered heat-insulating material. Using thick metal, you can make the upper case, for this you should use a steel pipe.

Work methodology

When the heat gun is assembled in the case, the following should be fixed:

fan with electric motor;
nozzle pump;
combustion chamber with vertical outlet.

At the next stage, a fuel pump is installed, while a pipe must be removed from the tank, through which mining will be supplied to the fuel filter, and then to the nozzle. The upper body of the ends must be closed with nets. The fact that the fan is powered by electricity, you need to think separately. If there is no access to the network, then you can use the battery.

It is important to remember that a homemade waste oil heat gun is a source of increased danger, so you should follow the safety rules. Even if you move away from the case by a meter, then there the flow of hot air can have a temperature of 300 ° C. That is why this device is not recommended for use in enclosed spaces, because combustion products can be dangerous.

The waste oil heat gun, the photo of which is presented in the article, has a combustion chamber, which is made from a pipe. It should be chosen taking into account the thickness of the walls, this parameter should be impressive. The combustion chamber must be provided with a hole for the nozzle, which will be located on one side. In the upper part you need to place the chimney pipe.

It is important to purchase or find a fan with an impeller. This device will be responsible for the direction of air flow. When assembling, it is necessary to follow a certain algorithm. A fan should be installed on one side of the case, its performance should be sufficient for efficient operation. The combustion chamber must be located in the center, it is located in the casing. A nozzle is installed at its end.

A galvanized pipe can act as a combustion chamber, the main thing is to find a product of the desired diameter. It is sealed on both sides, and at the next stage, technological holes are made in it for the chimney and nozzles. Piezo ignition must be installed in the combustion chamber. To do this, it is recommended to stock up on a product that you can purchase in specialized stores.

The used oil heat gun, which was described above, must have a fuel tank. As it is better to take finished goods right size. A fuel pump and a fine fuel filter are fixed in space. The pump and nozzle are connected at the next stage, an additional filter is used through which fuel will flow.

Conclusion

The fan is connected via a power dimmer, but you can do without this device, but it allows you to adjust the air temperature by the speed of rotation of the blades. This will not increase fuel consumption.

In my garage, for two years now, in the winter season, a thermal heater has been operating on used oil of my own production. During all this time, he improved and became the one desired design which was the most convenient. I must say that I was very pleased with her. But there were two downsides.
Firstly, the heater was too powerful for my 24 sq. meters. 45 minutes after starting the oven at a minimum power in the garage it became warm, and after another 15 minutes it was hot. I had to start and stop the oven several times during the day, which you will agree is not at all convenient.
Secondly, the heater had a terribly low efficiency. This was due to the single-breasted design and the small area of the heat exchanger.
He made different designs and there are developments. I really wanted to make a design for myself, taking into account all the considerations, comments and experience. Prepare the sleigh in the summer, and the cart in the winter, as they say, and set to work.
The pictures show that my design in the course of construction has undergone various changes, it was done along the way. There was an idea to make this heater work from one fan, but trial tests showed the unviability of such a design. Rather, it is viable, but the pressure of the blown air for blowing becomes so weak that the heater loses its most important quality - to "bullet" hot air into the far corner of the garage, or wherever you want.
After a trial run of this heater, I was a little surprised by the result.
The first thought - Damn eats less than the old one twice, and more heat than the old one three times !!! Hurrah!!!
As it turned out, due to a good heat exchanger, the heater turned out to be so economical that the old control unit (from which I launched it) simply could not make the flow lower than required! He started to give fuel from 1.6 volts, and the new gun could work and asked for a lower feed. The second pleasant moment was that it gives heat almost immediately after launch! And that's great. Immediately there was no need to turn on the blowing fan after a while, so that the heater had time to heat up, as required by the old design. So it's easier than an electrician.
I note that for simplicity and reliability of the design, I specifically use all 220 volt fans.
Because they are reliable, economical, easier on the control unit, durable, quieter than similar 12 or 24 volts.
The air supply line was specially hidden in a box so that the heater was more accurate and aesthetically pleasing to the eye.
Sorry for a lot of writing, but I think those who are interested will be interested in the details.
Furnace material used sheet metal 2 mm thick. For heat exchanger 1.5 mm For casing 1.2 mm. Yes, of course, for a 2 mm oven, I agree. But for myself I decided to redo it if it burns out where it won’t be difficult for me, the heater is completely disassembled. But it is very interesting for me to see where the zones are most loaded with temperature. So this heater is something like a test sample. And conclusions after observation can be useful for the following designs.
This oven can run on waste oil, any vegetable oil (cheburek waste), fuel oil, used printing ink, oil and diesel fuel.
The evaporation bowl should be cleaned approximately once every 20-50 hours of operation of the heater. I think the design is better with a bowl than without it. There are a lot of designs floating around the web.
Slag in the form of dry residue and pumice-like slag from mining is much easier to clean from the bowl than from the bowels of the furnace. But inside is always clean and tidy. The bowl needs to be changed once a season, because. it burns with heat. Over the past winter (the heater of the old design) I cleaned the bowl only 4 times. And in two seasons, he brewed a new bowl once. So, judging by previous experience, the design is not very whimsical.
If some water gets into the furnace with working out, you can hear it sizzling in the bowl, but nothing terrible happens. If there is a lot of water, it simply goes out. Since this is a closed evaporation structure and the fuel supply is dosed in small quantities, which is much safer.
Here is a video to illustrate.

By the way, you need to put a chimney corrugation in steel, aluminum rattles.
Thank you all for your attention. Good luck to all!

Attached images

The need to quickly heat a large or small room is not uncommon. Sometimes you need to heat the garage, dry the cement wall, warm up the cellar, shed, garden house, cottage, etc. In this case, a do-it-yourself heat gun can be the best way out. It is not so difficult to make such a device, while you can choose the appropriate type of fuel: electricity, diesel fuel, liquefied gas in cylinders, etc.

It is difficult to name a more convenient and simple device for space heating than a heat gun. She is a powerful a heating element and a fan enclosed in one case. Such a device heats the air and quickly distributes it throughout the room. It will take a few minutes to warm up a small room, and heating a large room will not take too much time.

The body of the heat gun must be closed on both sides with gratings that will freely let air through. It is a mandatory element of all industrial models.

The design of the heat gun is very simple, so a properly made device almost never breaks. You can use different fuels to operate the device:

electricity;
liquefied gas;
diesel fuel;
kerosene;
petrol etc.

The efficiency of the heat gun depends on the power of the device. For domestic use, a device with a power of 2-10 kW is quite suitable. For large rooms, you will need a heat gun with a power of 200-300 kW.

Unit #1 - electric heat gun

An electric heat gun is perhaps the simplest and safest heater option. If there is access to electricity on the site, such a unit should be made. It is useful both during construction work and later, for various household needs both in the house and on the site.

Materials and tools

To make an electric heat gun you will need:

the frame on which the structure will rest;
metal case;
heating element (TEN);
fan with electric motor;
switch or control panel;
cable for connecting the device to the mains.

The body of the heat gun can be made from a suitable piece of pipe or from a sheet of galvanized iron. To work, you will need a tool for metal and, possibly, a welding machine. The name “cannon” was given to this device because of the similarity of its cylindrical body with an old gun. However, the heater body may also have a square or rectangular section if it is easier to manufacture.

Please note that the body of the product may become quite hot during operation. You should choose a heat-resistant or sufficiently thick metal for the case. In addition, it makes sense to apply a heat-insulating coating to its metal parts.

When choosing a suitable heating element and fan, it should be remembered that the heating temperature depends on the power and number of heating elements. The fan speed does not affect the amount of heat, but the higher it is, the more evenly the received heat will spread throughout the room. Thus, the heating element is responsible for the heating temperature, and the fan speed is responsible for the quality.

To reduce costs, the heating element can be removed from an old iron or other household appliance. Sometimes it makes sense to shorten the heating element in order to increase the heating temperature. A suitable impeller motor can be found in older vacuum cleaners.

Assembly process

In order to assemble an electric heat gun correctly, it is recommended that you first draw up a diagram of the electrical circuit of the device. You can already use finished scheme, one of the options is shown below:

For the correct installation of an electric heat gun, before starting work, it is recommended to draw up wiring diagram, reflecting on it the connection of all elements to the mains

Assemble the electric heat gun in the following order:

Prepare the body and support.
Install the heating element (or several heating elements) in the center of the body.
Connect the power cable to the heaters.
Install the fan and supply power to it
Bring the power wire, wiring from the heating elements and the fan to the control panel.
Put a protective grille on the front and back of the case.

During assembly, carefully insulate all electrical connections. At the end of the assembly, a test run of the device is made. If it works without failures, you can use the gun for its intended purpose.

Unit #2 - diesel fuel heat gun

Where access to electricity is limited or impossible, diesel-fueled heaters are often used. It is somewhat more difficult to make such a heat gun on your own than electric model. You will need to make two cases and work welding machine.

How does such a design work?

The bottom of the diesel heat gun is the fuel tank. The device itself is placed on top, in which the combustion chamber and the fan are connected. Fuel is supplied to the combustion chamber, and the fan blows hot air into the room. For transporting and igniting fuel, you will need a connecting tube, a fuel pump, a filter and a nozzle. An electric motor is attached to the fan.

The combustion chamber is mounted in the center of the upper body of the heat gun. It is a metal cylinder, the diameter of which should be approximately two times smaller than the diameter of the body. Products of combustion of diesel fuel are removed from the chamber through a vertical pipe. For heating a room of about 600 sq. m may need up to 10 liters of fuel.

Assembly process

The bottom case must be at least 15 cm from the top. To prevent the fuel tank from overheating, it should be made of a material with low thermal conductivity. You can also use a regular metal tank, which will have to be covered with a layer of heat-insulating material.

The diagram clearly shows the device of a heat gun operating on diesel fuel. The device must be mounted on a solid, stable frame.

The upper case must be made of thick metal, it can be a suitable piece of wide steel pipe. It is necessary to fix in the case:

combustion chamber with vertical outlet;
fuel pump with nozzle;
fan with electric motor.

Then a fuel pump is installed, and a metal pipe is removed from the tank, through which fuel is supplied first to the fuel filter, and then to the nozzle in the combustion chamber. From the ends, the upper body is covered with protective nets. The power supply for the fan will have to be taken care of separately. If there is no access to electrical network battery should be used.

When using a diesel heat gun, it is important to adhere to safety regulations. Even at a distance of a meter from the case, the directed flow of hot air can reach 300 degrees. It is not recommended to use this device indoors, as the products of combustion of diesel fuel may be hazardous to human health.

In addition to the unit running on diesel fuel, other types of liquid combustible materials are also used for heat guns, for example, used engine oil. An interesting option such a device for “working out” is presented in the following video:

Unit #3 - gas heat gun

The design of a gas heat gun is in many ways similar to the design of a diesel unit. It also has a combustion chamber built into the body. Instead of a tank with liquid fuel, a liquefied gas cylinder is used.

As with the use of diesel fuel, the removal of combustion products is of great importance, since it is impossible to ensure complete combustion of gas in home-made devices. The air that enters the room is heated by contact with the combustion chamber. Exhaust gases leave the device through a branch led to the street. This indirect heating system is safer than open flame heating.

Indirect heat guns are equipped with a closed combustion chamber that prevents contact between open fire and air - this design is more complicated, but safer than direct heating models

To increase heat transfer, longitudinal plates can be welded to the combustion chamber body, usually 4-8 of them are made. At the same time, the dimensions of the combustion chamber with additional plates must be smaller than the diameter of the body so that the chamber does not touch its walls and does not overheat the body of the heat gun.

The body of a gas heat gun gets very hot during operation, so it must be covered with a layer of thermal insulation to avoid possible burns or fire.

To create a gas heat gun, you will need the following elements:

liquefied gas cylinder;
burner;
reducer;
metal case;
fan;
device for remote ignition;
frame for mounting the body.

The gas cylinder is connected to a reducer, which ensures a uniform supply of fuel to the burner. The air around the combustion chamber is heated, the fan blows it into the room. The procedure is almost the same as in the manufacture of a diesel heat gun. Visual device gas heater shown in the diagram:

This diagram clearly demonstrates the device of a heat gun operating on liquefied household gas. The fan must be powered

With a gas heat gun, only cylinders that are filled with gas should be used. professional equipment. Do-it-yourself cylinders may leak

During the manufacture and operation of a gas heat gun, it is recommended to adhere to the following rules:

The gas supply pipes at the joints must be carefully sealed.
IN without fail install a remote ignition device, since manual ignition can cause an explosion.
Make sure that the gas cylinder is always at a sufficient distance from the heater, otherwise the cylinder will overheat and the gas will explode.
Never use hand-made cylinders with a gas gun.
Do not leave a working device unattended for a long time.

One more important point- power ratio gas gun and dimensions of the heated room. Do not use a device that is too powerful in a small room, as this can easily lead to a fire.

Heat guns are auxiliary devices used to maintain a comfortable temperature regime in the conditions of production of repair and construction works. But their application is more extensive: the devices are also used for domestic needs, and in everyday life they use a lot of structurally interesting homemade products.

We will tell you how a waste oil heat gun should be assembled with your own hands. In the article we have proposed, the most popular schemes are presented, recommendations are given for the competent implementation of developments. Tips are given for the safe and trouble-free operation of the manufactured units.

Heating devices related to heat guns are technologically built according to a single principle. The design of such installations usually consists of a heating module and a fan installed in a single housing.

The design of the heat gun, manufactured under the conditions industrial production. Compact, safe, convenient device, thanks to which you can get the necessary heat in a short time of operation of the device

A common design option is electric. In this case, an electric heating element is used as a heater. However, there are also heat guns, where heating is carried out by other heat sources, such as burners that burn engine oil.

At the level of domestic use, they are often associated with ordinary ones. But such a design as a potbelly stove differs significantly from a heat gun, since it does not provide for a system of forced distribution of heated air.

The principle of operation of an extensive group of heaters, united by the technical term "heat gun", is discussed in, dedicated to the device and types of the unit.

A home-made potbelly stove powered by liquid fuel, namely, used engine oil. The design is questionable in terms of safety and not very convenient to use. But on the basis of such structures, craftsmen make heat guns

True, home craftsmen who create appliances manage to attach a ventilation module to the stoves, thereby achieving the effect of a heat gun. Consider the popular design with waste oil heating, which is often done by hand.

Mining as an inexpensive fuel

Waste machine (technical) oil is seen as an efficient fuel for household heating installations. This type of energy resource allows you to save on electricity consumption and at the same time receive the required amount of heat. But from an environmental point of view, burning waste oil is equated to chemical emissions.

Waste engine oil is an ideal fuel for home-made household stoves and heat guns. Turning to this type of fuel allows us to solve two problems - to save money and to dispose of mining

However, no one pays attention to the ecological moment. The main thing is to get cheap heat. In addition, do-it-yourself waste oil guns are often technologically hazardous equipment.

There are many examples when several private garages burned out at once for the reason that one of the car owners did not have enough heat, and he decided to remove the problem with a home-made cannon for working out.

Therefore, when deciding to manufacture such a heating system, one should approach the matter with full understanding. It is necessary to calculate all constructive options, to secure personal property and the property of other people.

Instructions for project implementation

The circuitry of one of the popular designs of a heat gun operating on waste oil provides for the use of an ordinary steel pipe D = 219 mm as a housing.

A pipe wall size of 10 mm is sufficient for long-term operation of the device. A piece of pipe 780 mm long is closed from the ends with steel caps.

Scheme for assembling a simple heat gun with your own hands: 1 - oil tank; 2 - dispenser with a tube; 3 - top cover; 4 - viewing window; 5 - side of the top cover; 6 – hatch for maintenance; 7 - air pipe; 8 - bowl for oil; 9, 10, 11 - holes of different diameters (3.5 - 5 mm)

Moreover, the bottom cover is welded tightly, and the top one, enlarged in diameter up to 226 mm, is equipped with lower sides and is removable. At the bottom of the hull pipe, an oil bowl is installed, made of a pipe D = 133 mm and supplemented with an upper rim.

The top cover of the gun body is equipped with two holes. One for the viewing window, the second for the air supply pipe. The air pipe of the heat gun is made by hand from a metal pipe D = 89 mm.

This structural detail, according to the scheme, is passed with an interference fit through the central hole of the upper housing cover and is fixed on it (scalded).

The air supply pipe is fixed in such a way that, with the cover installed, the distance between its bottom and the bottom of the oil bowl in the casing pipe does not exceed 50 mm.

Option for manufacturing an air pipe. The distribution and diameter of the holes play an important role in the operation of this part of the heat gun design. The thickness of the metal, which determines the durability of the pipe, is also important.

The air pipe is also supplemented by an oil pipeline - a copper tube of small diameter (6-10 mm), which runs inside the air channel, in its central part. The free part of the tube, left outside, is connected to an intermediate tank - a waste oil supply regulator.

At a distance of 80-100 mm from the top cover, a hole D = 100 mm is cut out on the wall of the casing pipe and a branch is welded. This is a pipe for connecting a chimney. And on the opposite side of the body, in its lower part, a hatch with a diameter of 100-120 mm is made for maintenance (ignition). The hatch is placed on the same level as the oil bowl.

A variant of the final product is a waste oil heat gun. However, it makes more sense to make the top cover removable, which not only simplifies system maintenance, but also technical repair if necessary

To carry out work on the manufacture of such a home-made cannon, which functions in testing, it is enough to have a welding machine, a standard set of plumbing tools and pipe material at hand according to the dimensions of the scheme.

You will also need a steel sheet and metal corner for support legs. The main process consists of welding the prepared parts. Preparation of structural elements does not take much effort and time.

Operation of the manufactured heater

The principle of operation of a homemade potbelly stove using waste oil is simple. A portion of engine oil is supplied through a copper tube. The bowl is filled with fuel in the bottom area of the pipe and the contents are set on fire through the lower hatch.

Close the hatch and observe through the viewing window. Let it flare up operating temperature, after which they turn on a constant dosed (drip) supply of mining.

Preparing a homemade device for launch. The cover with an air pipe is put on the body of the stove, after which it remains only to fill the system with oil, set fire to liquid fuel and adjust the drip flow of mining

By adjusting the drip dosage, the operation of the device is adjusted so as not to overheat the case. As the furnace heats up, the oil entering the dosing tube will heat up. The characteristic of the ignition point of the fuel will change.

It is clear that in such conditions, without automation, it is extremely difficult to achieve a clear adjustment. Therefore, if there is no automation, an oil heat gun cannot be left unattended.

Varieties of schemes on waste oil

From point of view design features There are two types of heaters operating on waste oil:

Direct burning.
Isolated combustion.

Similar features underlie division into subgroups. Direct combustion designs are more efficient, but when working together with heat, they emit combustion products that are harmful to health.

Scheme of a direct combustion plant for industrial production: 1 - combustion chamber; 2 - oil burner; 3 – burner nozzle; 4 - valve with electric drive; 5 - supply tube; 6 - fan; 7 - electric motor; 8 - pump; 9 - power unit; 10 - container for oil; 11 - control panel

A direct combustion device is easy to do with your own hands. Moreover, there is an opportunity for the implementation of a mobile project. Such guns are produced at the level of industrial production. You can make an apparatus with your own hands on the basis of an industrial scheme.

For work you will need:

Capacity suitable form and sizes.
Lightweight metal pipe (stainless steel).
Axial fan.
The fuel pump is tiny.
Burner for technical oil.

The oil tank is equipped with wheels and a handle. Inside the steel pipe, in its rear half, a fan with a fuel pump, a fuel supply and injection system, and an oil burner are mounted.

Front half pipe ( inner part) of the heater is equipped with additional protective plates. A flame limiter is made directly at the outlet. That's the whole structure.

Scheme of the installation of isolated combustion: 1 - combustion chamber; 2 - chimney pipe; 3 - oil burner; 4 – burner nozzle; 5 - valve with electric drive; 6 - supply tube; 7 - fan; 8 - electric motor; 9 - fuel pump; 10 - power unit; 11 - oil tank; 12 - control panel

Almost the same principle is used to manufacture a heat gun of isolated combustion. The difference with the first design is noted only in the addition of a chimney pipe to the front area and the creation of an isolated combustion chamber.

When arranging a combustion chamber inside the pipe, the diameter of this part of the structure is made one third smaller than the diameter of the body. Due to this design, intertubular channels are formed. The air blown through them exits heated through the nozzle.

Features of the operation of homemade products

It is not difficult to get heat from a waste oil gun. Another question is how to use all this economy in order to exclude spills of used oil and the danger of its ignition. Therefore, special attention in the manufacture of such structures should also be paid to the mining storages and the furnace supply system with this working fluid.

Attempt to equip with electronics homemade installation heating on used engine oil. However, for a reliable automation system, it is necessary to install several sensors and use a multi-stage control scheme.

For fuel storage, it is desirable to use airtight metal containers equipped with a dosing system. It is permissible to place vessels with engine oil only in places remote from sources of open fire, including at a distance from a home-made stove.

Waste oil should not be used as a fuel if it contains even a small amount of water. A mixture of engine oil with water has the properties of an "explosive" character during combustion.

Once in the burner nozzle, such a composition ignites and is ejected at high speed in the form of a mass of burning oil droplets. This uncontrolled process often causes a fire.

Compact convenient and also mobile heat gun operating on liquid fuel. A direct alternative to homemade devices. The cost of such an installation is not so high that you can completely ignore the option of buying and making a gun with your own hands

Homemade direct combustion heaters are sources of the spread of carcinogens. It is forbidden to use such installations indoors.

If an assembly with an insulated combustion chamber and the exhaust of combustion products outside the room is used, measures should be taken to reduce pollution. environment. For some, all these requirements are seen as a "filkin's letter", but a true designer should not ignore generally accepted rules.

In general, a heat gun is, of course, a worthwhile thing. Subject to the assembly of really high-quality homemade products in all respects, it is not forbidden to use such devices. However, assembly effective system proportional to the cost of an industrial design unit.

About how heat guns are built that can work on various types fuel, you will learn from, the contents of which we highly recommend that you familiarize yourself with.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

How to make a heating device for the garage and increase its efficiency, you can learn from the following video:

If there is not enough opportunity or desire to make a heat gun with your own hands, you can simply contact a specialized store, choose a suitable device and buy it without unnecessary gestures. The advantages are obvious: guarantees, safety of operation, high efficiency of action with a small consumption of combustible material.

Oil waste from the engine and other devices is a very popular fuel for heating garages and even houses. It's always nice to use recycled materials to good use. And in the case when this issue concerns energy resources for heating, this is also beneficial. The role of the "first violin" in this situation is performed by the oven for working out with your own hands. Other names for this device are a heat gun, a heat generator and a heater.

Any combustible oil can be used as fuel. Diesel, machine, transmission, vegetable, confectionery. Absolutely any. A waste oil furnace with a water circuit is also made from recycled materials: pieces of metal, old oxygen or gas cylinder or cutting pipes of different diameters. The purpose of this article is to talk about how such furnaces are arranged, and how to make such a unit yourself.

Among motorists, a do-it-yourself waste oil stove is quite popular. It heats small rooms well with little requirements for aesthetics and cleanliness. This unit is perfect for a garage, workshop, small country house and other similar buildings.

Homemade furnaces for mining have the following positive aspects:

low cost and simplicity of design;
low requirements for the quality of combustible materials;
good heat transfer performance;
periodic kindling in winter time in no way affect the unit itself;
compactness and mobility;
no need for complex installation.

For reliable and trouble-free operation of such a furnace for a garage, you only need a good chimney.

The disadvantages of this device include low efficiency and the unpleasant smell of oil vapors that occurs during certain operating modes. It is worth mentioning the appearance of stains on the floor or clothes that appear during direct contact with mining. However, it is quite within the power of any self-taught master to make a supercharged furnace more efficient, we will describe how to do this later.

The standard design of the stove is made in such a way as to heat the air. In order to provide heat to a dwelling, a furnace in this design is rarely used: oxygen is burned from hot metal walls, air is dried. But for heating technical or industrial premises this design is ideal because of its ability to quickly raise the temperature in the room. Such ovens can often be found in garages, car washes, greenhouses, warehouses and other industrial and technical premises.

The design and principle of operation of the oil furnace

The design looks like two tanks, upper and lower, connected by a perforated pipe. They are offset relative to each other's transverse axis. Many people think that tanks should ideally be cylindrical, but in practice it turned out that rectangular ones are absolutely not inferior to them. In order for the structure to be installed on the floor, legs are provided in its device. The furnace device is shown in the diagram below:

The principle of operation of the device is the pyrolysis combustion of heavy fuel. Many people know that engine oil ignites at high enough temperatures, and for burning at home, it will be necessary to turn it into vapors. To create this effect, you will need to fill the bottom tank through the hole about half way through the hole, and then kindle it. But for this you need a light fuel like thinner or gasoline.

During the combustion of gasoline, the mining heats up and begins to evaporate, as a result of which the vapors ignite and the furnace begins to “work”. The lower tank is the primary combustion chamber, where the fuel is partially burned due to the air supply through the hole. To adjust the intensity of the process, a special damper is used, with the help of which the air flow is partially blocked. Max Flow fuel 2 l/h, in temperature support mode - 0.5 l/h.

The do-it-yourself stove for mining is equipped with a vertical gas duct, on which there are a large number of holes for the passage of secondary air. Combustion products that enter the perforated pipe, mixed with mining vapors, are well burned in it and inside the upper tank. After that, flue gases exit the furnace through the chimney pipe, bending around the partition. Their temperature is quite high, and in order to save most of the heat along with the gases, it is recommended to carry out the following actions:

lay the chimney along the wall through the entire room, making a slope towards the stove, this is a proven method, the walls of the pipeline have good heat dissipation;
mount a water circuit, an economizer, immediately behind the pipe, connecting a small tank, a battery, and a pair of heating radiators to it.

With a water circuit, the oil furnace can only be operated continuously. If it is supposed to be used only periodically, then it is recommended to use antifreeze as a coolant. Thus, it is possible to increase the efficiency from 40%, like that of a potbelly stove, to quite serious 50-55%.

What materials and tools are needed?

Any craftsman who has the skills to work with a welding machine can easily and quickly make an oven with his own hands. First you need to make a procurement of materials in accordance with the drawings of the waste oil furnace.

Acting on such detailed instructions how to make an oven, it remains only to assemble the prepared parts. To perform the work, you will need a standard set of tools and fixtures:

welding machine;
Bulgarian;
drill with a set of drills;
a set of locksmith tools;
measuring devices.

After the assembly is completed, it is imperative to check the tightness of both containers and the quality of the welds, since over time, mining can seep through the smallest pores and defects. It is quite easy to perform this operation on your own, there are many methods. You can soap the joints, and supply compressed air inside the tanks, or coat the seams with kerosene and visually determine the defects.

To heat a medium-sized room, the power of the oil stove needs to be increased, the design described above will not be enough. Using a similar method, power cannot be increased indefinitely, but still options exist. For example, a furnace equipped with two afterburners, a retractable firebox and a separate fuel tank, as shown below:

How to make a furnace for burning waste from a pipe?

If the body is already ready, the manufacture of the furnace is simplified. The principle of operation of this device is based on evaporation in a plasma bowl. It is capable of delivering up to 15 kW of heat (it gives heating of an area of about 150 m2). It is impossible to increase heat transfer by making any changes in the design (increasing the air supply or the volume of the furnace), it is possible to disrupt the thermal regime by receiving more fumes instead of more heat, and this is unsafe.

If you have the skills to work with welding, you can independently make a waste oil furnace out of a pipe. Instructions on how to make a waste oil stove:

Making the case:

You will need a thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 210 mm, a wall thickness of 10 mm and a height of 780 mm.
A bottom with a diameter of 219 mm is cut out of 5 mm sheet steel and welded on one side.
Legs are welded to the bottom (bolts may be suitable for their manufacture).
A viewing window is made from the bottom at a distance of about 70 mm. It will serve to monitor combustion and heat the bowl at the "start". Dimensions are made based on personal convenience preferences. The door is made from a cut piece of pipe, having first welded a thin collar. It should still be closed tightly; for this, an asbestos cord is laid around the perimeter of the door. You can also use oven casting, in which case the dimensions of the window should be cut out for it, it will be bolted directly to the body, the presence of an asbestos cord is also necessary in this case.
The smoke exhaust pipe is welded from the opposite side, stepping back from the top 7-10 cm. It is made by pipes with a diameter of 108 mm and a wall thickness of 4 mm.

Making the lid:

A circle 228 mm in diameter is cut from a 5 mm sheet of metal.
From a strip 40 mm wide and 3 mm thick, a side is welded along the edge.
A hole with a diameter of 89 mm is made in the center of the cover, another hole with a diameter of 18 mm is made on the side, it will serve as another viewing window. For him
a cover is made, which will simultaneously serve as a safety valve.
A pipe is made to supply fuel and air.
To do this, you need a pipe with a diameter of 89 mm, with a wall thickness of 3 mm and a height of 760 mm.
9 holes with a diameter of 5 mm are drilled around the circumference, at a distance of 50 mm from the edge.
Two more rows of holes with a diameter of 4.2 mm are made 50 mm higher than these holes, 8 holes in a row.
Stepping back another 50 mm, 4 rows of holes are made, 3 mm in diameter, in the amount of 9 pieces.
With the help of a grinder, slots 1.6 mm thick and 30 mm high are cut, they should be located on the same side. There should be 9 of them around the circumference.
A hole with a diameter of 10 mm is cut from the other end of the pipe, at a distance of 5-7 mm from the edge.
A fuel supply pipe with a diameter of 10 mm and a wall thickness of 1 mm is inserted into the resulting hole. It should end flush with the air supply pipe. The length and angle of the bend depend on the location of the fuel tank.
The finished air and fuel supply pipe is welded to the cover. It is set in such a way that it does not reach the bottom of the case 120 mm.

A piece 30 mm long is cut off from a pipe with a diameter of 133 mm and a wall thickness of 4 mm.
A circle with a diameter of 219 mm is cut from a 2 mm steel sheet.
It is welded to a piece of pipe, this will be the bowl for supplying fuel.
Assembly.
The bowl is mounted inside the body at a distance of 70 mm from the bottom. Thus, it will be possible to observe and kindle it from the lower inspection hatch.
Install the cover with the fuel / air supply device.
The chimney is mounted on the chimney pipe. They are served by a pipe with a diameter of 114 mm, a wall thickness of 4 mm and a height of at least 4 meters. The part remaining indoors can not be isolated, and the part that will go outside is better to be insulated. The chimney must have a strictly vertical position, any slopes are excluded.
Tests can be carried out after the oil tank has been installed. To do this, a little paper is placed in the bowl, which is filled with fuel and set on fire. As soon as the paper is almost completely burnt out, the oil supply is cut off.

This drawing of a furnace working at mining is not without reason given with such a detailed indication of materials. These are the details you need to use. As a result of the operation of such a furnace with a fuel consumption of 1 - 1.5 l / h, it is possible to heat a room with an area of 150 m2.

Features of Pressurized Oil Furnace

warm up private house with an area of 100 m2, a mining furnace will help, the design of which has built-in forced air injection into the combustion zone. These advantages are obvious:

increased power;
high fuel combustion efficiency;
you can increase the efficiency of heat use by automating the device;
economy.

It is somewhat more difficult to make such a stove for working out, in addition, this design directly depends on the stability of the power supply. In areas where power outages are not uncommon, special measures will be needed to ensure uninterrupted power supply using generators.

A home-made pressurized furnace working at mining is a closed cylindrical vessel, inside of which is the afterburner chamber familiar to us, which looks like a pipe with holes. At the bottom of the structure is a door that provides access to the firebox and ignition. A chimney pipe is welded to the top of the cylinder, and with the help of a conventional tie-in through the side wall or top cover, forced air supply in the form of a pipe with holes.

At the bottom of the vessel there is fuel (working out), which is supplied automatically as it is consumed. Feeding methods can be very diverse: using a float mechanism or from a container using a submersible mechanism, it all depends on personal preference. The figure shows a diagram of a furnace with air injection, a water jacket and fuel supply using a float valve.

With the help of a small amount of solvent or gasoline, mining is ignited at the bottom of the tank, after which the blower fan is turned on. As soon as the fuel warms up, it begins to emit vapors that are burned with excess oxygen. As a result, a powerful torch of flame is formed, which spreads in all directions as seen in the photograph.

Advice. This design is distinguished by one feature: due to the strong flame, the bottom of the vessel is very hot. If it is necessary to heat one room, a blowing fan is installed opposite this zone. In the case when it is required to heat the whole house, the stove is supplied with a water jacket.

Combustion products leaving the furnace tank can reach quite high temperature, about 400 0С. As in the previous design, in order to reduce heat loss, the chimney must be equipped with a heat exchanger connected to the heating system through a storage tank. This will help increase the efficiency of the furnace up to 80 - 85%.

How to make a simple supercharged mining stove?

In order to make a supercharged mining furnace, you will need an old propane tank. Holes for the chimney and doors are cut out in it, and you will also need to embed an air supply pipe, its diameter does not play a big role, but 50 mm will be ideal for us.

Holes in the pipe are made with a diameter of 9 mm according to the same principle as in a conventional stove. You will also need to make a cover with an asbestos cord seal. To do this, you will need to cut off the top of the cylinder, for convenience, handles can be welded to the lid.

In order for a home-made furnace working at mining to be able to function in different modes and be able to be regulated, it is equipped with the necessary automation. To do this, you will need to purchase a controller with temperature sensors, which is connected according to the scheme with a fan. In this case, it becomes possible to control the heating temperature by reducing or increasing the blower performance.

Quite often, such a design is done without forced air supply. All work directly depends on the draft in the chimney, and the regulation is carried out using a manual damper. Now, you know how to make a working oven with your own hands, having drawings. And how it works in real conditions can be seen in the video: