Sheathing a wooden house with clapboard inside gives a feeling of unity with nature. Clapboard in the interior: types, photos, tips Methods for lining walls with clapboard

Finishing work is always associated with dust and dirt. It takes a lot of money and time to repair, and the result does not always satisfy the owners. Lining is a practical and environmentally friendly material with which you can quickly decorate a room.

To sheathe an apartment with clapboard, you do not need to spend a lot of time and building materials to level the walls and ceiling. The material looks neat and attractive, it is an additional heat-insulating material with which you can create a flat surface. In addition, it is environmentally friendly.

Varieties

Before sheathing a room in a country house with clapboard, as in the case of a city apartment, it is necessary to decide what type of lining will be used. Each type of material has certain advantages and disadvantages.

On the construction market, you can purchase the following types of lining:

plastic;
wooden;
from MDF.

The highest quality is considered natural material - wood. However, it may not be used for all rooms. For example, for a bathroom that always maintains a high level of humidity, it is better to choose an inexpensive plastic that does not break down when constantly exposed to moisture.

Advantages

The children's room, lined with clapboard, looks simple and versatile. No need to finish the walls with other materials, glue wallpaper. The panels are easy to assemble, forming a smooth surface, and all fasteners are hidden inside the structure. If there is a gap between the material and the wall, then communications can be hidden in it.

The plastic panels are the following advantages:

moisture resistance;
dirt is easily washed off with a sponge;
you can purchase material with different patterns and patterns;
low cost.

Natural wood material is distinguished by higher rates of strength and environmental friendliness, reliability. The lining has a pleasant aroma, which creates an atmosphere of warmth and comfort in the room. MDF is no less durable material. Wood chips are not harmful to humans. However, in the manufacture of such panels, synthetic resins are used, which can release toxins.

Minuses

Rooms lined with wooden clapboard have many disadvantages. Firstly, although the material looks attractive, it is boring and of the same type. The only way to freshen up the interior a little is to paint the wood panels.

As for plastic, it is unsafe from an environmental point of view, not strong enough. The plastic panel is easy to deform. Natural wood material is quickly destroyed by constant exposure to moisture, is prone to the formation of fungus and mold, and wood is expensive.

MDF panels are also subject to rapid destruction. Products made from such material are more original and diverse, but wood chip panels serve much less than similar products made from natural wood.

Important nuances

Lining can be made from different breeds, has different lengths and widths. Before proceeding to the purchase of material, it is necessary not only to take into account the features of the room that is planned to be finished, but also the conditions in which the panels will be stored:

products are not taken out of the packaging before the start of work;
store them on a special substrate in a horizontal position;
the room should not be damp;
products are not placed in direct sunlight.

It is important to remember that the material has an expiration date, and you need to familiarize yourself with it before buying. Preliminary calculations are carried out, a scheme is drawn up. It is necessary to purchase lining with a margin of at least 10%.

How to prepare material?

How to properly sheathe a room with clapboard so that there are no problems in the future? To do this, you should properly prepare for finishing work. It is necessary to prepare material and walls for them.

The lining must undergo the following processing:

High-quality processing of the material helps not only to improve the aesthetic characteristics of the material, but also to extend the life of the panels. If there is no desire to engage in such manipulations, then you can purchase already processed material, only it will cost much more.

Room preparation

Before sheathe a room in an apartment with clapboard, you need to prepare the walls for work. If you skip this stage, then over time the panels may not withstand constant contact with moisture, and you will have to correct errors.

If there is a fungus on the wall, it must be treated with an antiseptic. After that, the walls will become resistant to fire and mold. A prerequisite for the preparatory stage is the use of a water-repellent solution.

You can add an additional layer thermal insulation material. Can be used as a heater mineral wool, and polystyrene foam will perfectly protect the room from extraneous sounds. Used to protect against steam. vapor barrier film.

Mounting methods

How to sheathe a room in the country with clapboard? There are many mounting options and materials with which you can work. Small boards are attached to a special frame, while the fixation can be external and hidden. For work, decorative screws, ordinary nails, kleimers and staplers can be used.

Regardless of what type of fasteners will be used, all work must be done as carefully as possible. Otherwise, chips and cracks may appear on the wood, which will spoil appearance panels.

The easiest way to fasten - through. All work is carried out as quickly and easily as possible. Self-tapping screws are fixed through the front part, pre-marking is made and holes for fasteners are drilled. This is necessary so that the wood does not crack. The self-tapping screw is twisted so that it “drowns” a little in the wood.

Then the place of fastening is either covered with special plastic plugs, or puttied. If you sheathe a room with clapboard using just this method, it may not look the best.

The most attractive option is the use of decorative carnations. However, they are very fragile and must be handled with extreme care. Hidden nails that do not have a hat are very popular. They are hammered at an angle, so the fasteners are invisible.

If the panels are laid from top to bottom, it is possible to sheathe the room with clapboard using brackets. However, for this you need to purchase a professional stapler. When the lining is thin, for example, in the case of plastic material, special clamps can be used. They are invisible, and installation is carried out as quickly as possible.

Lathing installation

Sheathing the room with a clapboard with their own hands, they first draw up a diagram and only then securely fix the grate for fastening the panels to the wall. The reliability and quality of the entire structure depends on it. There are a few things to keep in mind while doing the job. important rules:

The wall must be dry, the timber for the crate is treated with water-repellent and refractory impregnations.
Rails are placed perpendicular wooden panels.
The distance between the rails should be approximately 45 centimeters.
Be sure to leave a small gap between the floor and the ceiling.
Using a professional building level, check the evenness of the frame.

Installation of lining

Work begins with the fact that the boards are brought into the room and left there for 1-2 days. This is necessary so that the lining gets used to the microclimate in the room. Otherwise, the products may be slightly deformed. It is important to work in a warm room with a low level of humidity.

Most often, installation is done horizontally. In this case, the first panel is placed so that the spike looks up. Start work from the corner of the room. The very first steps must be carried out with a building level in order to eliminate the occurrence of irregularities. After installing the first element and checking it by level, the rest of the panels are fixed. First they grovel and only then are fixed.

To sheathe a room with clapboard in a vertical way, they act in exactly the same way. All actions are repeated, only changing the position of the panels. For the vertical method, it is better to use wider boards, then the finish will look more attractive. Experienced workers can install the lining in just one day.

How to draw corners

Many people wonder what a room lined with clapboard looks like. Photos of examples of work are in our article. Such a room has a harmonious, neat and modern look. However, the overall picture can be spoiled by ugly and poorly processed corners.

To solve the problem, you can pre-purchase special “boats” at the hardware store. These products are specially designed for finishing corners. They perfectly hide the junction and the gap.

If planed timber was used for finishing, then there is no need to buy special skirting boards. The material is firmly and tightly attached to the bars, making the corner look more attractive and professional.

Finishing stage

After the lining is securely fixed, you can proceed to the decorative component. Such material must be varnished, which will extend the life of the wood and make it more attractive.

Previously, the lining must be degreased, it should not contain dirt, dust, soap stains. To apply varnish, use the usual paint brush. First, it is recommended to carry out a preparatory impregnation with a stain, after which the varnish is applied in two layers (even three is possible).

How to update a room lined with clapboard? To do this, you can simply paint the walls of the room with paint. When it comes to the youth room, you can choose even the most extreme shades. If there are chips or cracks on the wood, they are masked with wood putty, the material is painted and varnished. As a result, the room becomes modern and stylish. On the wall, you can also depict a beautiful pattern or pattern.

Instead of a conclusion

So, we figured out how to sheathe a room using a material such as lining. Experts note that this is a high-quality and relatively inexpensive construction material. It is easy to work with him, and even a beginner can carry out all the work. At the same time, it is not necessary to carry out dusty and dirty work, to level the surface for a long time, to prime and putty it. All flaws are hidden inside the structure, while the walls look perfect.

Sheathing with clapboard surfaces is carried out in several interrelated stages, each of which requires a special approach. Careful implementation of all technological procedures is a guarantee that it will be possible to obtain a reliable coating that is distinguished by excellent properties and environmental friendliness. The material is ideal for any kind of work.

Lining - is a board (of different thicknesses), which is made from various types of wood. The material got its name from the original place of use. Namely, train cars, the inner surfaces of which were sheathed with small wooden slats which created an excellent microclimate. Currently, the wood product is returning to its former popularity, which decreased slightly when plastic and MDF options began to appear.

The modern construction market offers a wide range of lining types

It must be borne in mind that do-it-yourself wall cladding with clapboard requires a balanced approach. Therefore, it is important to pay attention to the product at the stage of its acquisition. Pay attention to the following points:

Proper storage of purchased goods. Packages must be stored in a horizontal position on a support.
The humidity level of the warehouse should be within the normal range.
It is not allowed to find products in open space, under the rays of sunlight.

You should also pay attention to the expiration date on the label.

All information about the storage and shelf life of the lining should be indicated on the packaging of the material.

Such a precaution is necessary in order to mitigate possible risks. The fact is that work with lining is carried out only after they are completely convinced that the material meets all standards.

On a note! The product should be purchased with the necessary margin, which is equal to ten percent. To get the exact number of elements, preliminary calculations are carried out, and a scheme is drawn up. It is important to consider that the size of the width of each fragment is measured by the internal depth. That is, it is necessary to subtract the depth of the groove (10-12 mm).

It is necessary to buy material with a margin of 10%

Material handling

After the purchase the right amount products and fasteners, the question immediately arises: how to properly sheathe the walls with clapboard? But this is not a top priority. You need to know that the material needs pre-treatment, because in production, no actions are performed other than manufacturing. Therefore, the following manipulations are performed:

Coniferous woods need complete degreasing. All resin stains are removed. The boards are well washed with acetone (25% solution is required). Further, they are carefully wiped with rags previously moistened with water. After all the steps - the products are dried.
To obtain the same shade of the surface, each fragment is processed with a pre-prepared mixture. It consists of hydrogen peroxide and acid (oxalic). The solution is prepared based on the type of wood.
All damages, even minor ones, are repaired with putty. It is better to choose a mixture of wood. You can buy it at the store or make your own.
If you want to change the shade, then use stain or other special impregnations that preserve the texture of the wood.

Processing lining allows you to extend its service life and change the color of the material

Of course, you can find products that will be pre-finished, but their cost will be essentially yours.

On a note! You can't skip preprocessing. This will be a gross violation of the technology for lining surfaces with clapboard.

There are two main options for lining the surface with clapboard: glue and frame. The first requires a perfectly flat plane. Therefore, a method that involves the construction of a crate is preferable. In addition, it allows you to create additional space for warming the room.

The erection of the frame gives additional features for room insulation

To attach the lining to the wall you will need:

Tool. In this case, it is necessary to prepare: a drill with various nozzles, a level (plumb), a hammer, pliers, an electric jigsaw or a hand saw.
Rails for the frame. For this purpose, a solid wooden beam with a cross section of 30 * 60 mm is excellent. Substrates are prepared immediately. They are used to level the racks.
On a note! If the surface has a significant slope, then setting wooden beam turns out to be a rather complicated process. In this case, a metal profile is used.
Fasteners: self-tapping screws, dowels, carnations, kleimers; if required, then additional elements for the frame (suspensions).

You should know that before sheathing with clapboard, even if applied wireframe method surface preparation is required. The procedure is simple, it consists in the fact that the old decorative layer is removed, and all defects are well smeared. Additionally, priming is carried out.

Creating a crate

The crate is carefully attached to the wall. The order of placement of the rails is determined by the chosen scheme for laying the lining.

The beam is treated with refractory impregnation and mold protection. Wood paneling suggests that the wall will be dry.
The slats should be perpendicular to the decorative boards.
A single distance is established between the rails, the step of which is 40-50 cm.
Be sure to leave a gap between the ceiling and the floor. This is especially important for wooden houses, which are subject to constant shrinkage.
The evenness of the installation of the frame for cladding with wooden clapboard is carefully checked. To do this, use the building level and plumb lines.
If an empty space is formed between the wall and the rail, then it is filled with prepared dies.

The empty space between the rail and the wall is filled with wooden dies

On a note! The crate makes it possible to finish the walls with an additional layer of insulation. It is fixed directly between the racks.

Choosing a Fixation Option

Immediately determined with the method of fixation. After all, clapboard lining can be performed different methods:

Mounting the lining on the kleimers allows you to make the fasteners invisible

The necessary fasteners are selected based on the specific situation. Currently, kleimers are becoming more and more popular.

Attachment of decorative material

Fastening the lining begins with the fact that the material is brought into the room and left for two days. This time is necessary for the product to fully acclimatize. If you carry out the installation immediately, then there is a high probability that the warping of the elements will begin - the structure will be deformed. Work is carried out only at a positive temperature and humidity, which is not less than 60%.

Previously, the lining is brought into the room and left for two days

The general technique is:

Often the installation of boards is carried out in a horizontal manner. Therefore, the first element is installed at the bottom so that the spike looks up.
Fixing starts from the corner, which is away from the main entrance to the room.
The first board is well checked for level, the horizontal and vertical planes are taken into account. If even small deviations are allowed, they will become very noticeable when the top panel is attached.
The first fragment is fixed. Once again, the possibility of deviations is checked.
Next, the following elements are installed, which are first grooved, and then fixed.

But how to sheathe a wall with clapboard vertically? The procedure is the same as before:

Elements are located from the far corner. The first fragment is exposed and fixed.
The following elements are inserted into the groove and fixed. It is important to check that the joint is fully connected. To do this, lightly tap the rail along the edge.
For this method, a wider rail is used. It creates a beautiful surface with fewer joints.

With experience, the walls can be finished in one day (even with the frame). When installation is complete, attach decorative elements: corners and plinths. The surface is well impregnated with stain and varnished.

House decoration outside

Finishing the house with clapboard outside

Sheathing the house with clapboard outside - almost completely repeats interior work. The procedure is divided into three stages: marking, installation of the crate and cladding. But there are some nuances:

Two racks must be installed at each corner of the house.
Window and door openings are framed with a profile (beam).
Used for work quality board, which does not have drop-down knots.
Fixation is carried out through.
Elements are fastened with a groove down. This prevents the accumulation of precipitation.

If you understand the basic rules and study the chosen fixing method well, then the work is done quite quickly. The result will be a surface that will bring comfort and warmth of natural wood to the interior and will delight with its beauty for many years.

Clapboard - clean natural material, which has long been successfully used for wall decoration. Clapboard trim is found in residential buildings, baths, utility rooms.

Interior design with clapboard

There is an opinion that this material is more suitable for giving or a bath than for a cottage or apartment. This myth is successfully refuted by designers who organically fit wood trim into a variety of styles and trends.

Wooden lining in the interior is organically combined with tiles, wallpaper, plaster. With the skillful combination of textures, you can create an elegant and stylish interior like in this photo:

Original photo ideas for cladding with clapboard furniture can become the basis for your own design:

Lining can become an integral part of the interior in the Scandinavian style. In this design, it is combined with natural or artificial stone and large ceiling beams.

For those in love with Provence, wall decoration is ideal wooden material natural shades. In this option, the combination of wood with plaster and a rough board floor looks cute and natural.

Another style that requires the use of natural wood paneling is Russian. The walls sheathed with a block house look like the walls of a log house.

Lining is also applicable for high-tech style. In this version, the material is dyed in neutral gray or white and used as a backdrop for bright accessories.

Fans of minimalism should like the combination of lining with strict stone and ceramics.

Varieties of material

Lining can be not only wooden, there are three main types of material:

MDF panels.
Plastic lining.
Wooden lining.

Tree

The traditional and time-tested material is wood. It creates a breathable coating that can be varnished or painted in any color with paint or special impregnation if desired.

Wooden lining has several classes with different quality characteristics:

Class Extra. Differs in high quality, lack of defects, the increased durability. Has an appropriate price.
A-class. Small knots can be found on material of this quality. Otherwise, there should be no defects. The most popular type of material in terms of price - quality ratio.
B-class. There are noticeable factory defects on this lining. But at the same time, the material is quite durable and can be safely used for finishing a bath or balcony.
C-class. Most inexpensive option with defects different kind and not durable. Suitable for finishing non-residential outbuildings.

Another classification of lining - in form:

eurolining (considered to be of higher quality and has a different appearance);
ordinary lining, having standard shapes and sizes.

For your information! The most popular clapboard finish inside the house today is from the block house material. This is a eurolining that imitates log house. This design implies a traditional national flavor.

Plastic

It is considered that plastic panels more suitable for sheathing ceiling planes. For walls, this material is not suitable, as it is fragile.

For your information! The exception is rooms with high humidity such as bathroom or kitchen.

The plastic-lined ceiling is easy to clean with ordinary detergents and does not need special drying, like a wooden counterpart.

MDF

This lining looks very similar to a tree. MDF is easy to install, has a wide range of colors and is varied in texture. Its main drawback is instability to moisture. When wet, this material exfoliates and deforms, so it is not used in rooms with high humidity. MDF can be used for walls or ceiling.

For your information! Combining MDF panels with other materials gives an excellent result.

How to work with wooden lining

Finishing clapboard requires careful preparation of the material. The wood must be thoroughly dried. In addition, the material must be left indoors for a day before starting work, so that it “gets used” to the temperature regime of the room. Walls for sheathing need to be prepared: leveled and treated with special compounds.

For your information! Each element of the lining has a groove and a spike for connecting parts. Thanks to this system, the surface sheathed with wood will be perfectly flat.

Wood is an excellent heat-insulating material, but it is sensitive to temperature changes in the room. Abrupt climate changes can lead to mold growth. In addition, insects that feed on wood can cause great damage to the coating. To keep the lining inside the house for a long time, it is important to monitor temperature regime and treat material from pests.

For your information! Excessive drying of the wood can lead to deformation of the panels.

Mounting the lining is very simple, this task is easy to handle home master. You just need to follow a simple algorithm of work:

clean the walls from dirt dust;
level the surface;
install a crate from a metal profile or a wooden beam (the crate will help hide the bumps and slope of the walls);
fasten the trim elements using clamps.

You will need an assistant to work, it is not always convenient to fasten long cladding elements alone.

Lining can be carried out in a vertical or horizontal direction. Accordingly, if the skin is horizontal, the frame is installed with vertical posts and vice versa.

To make the crate even, all its elements are set using the building level. The installation of the frame starts from the corners of the room. Between the rails, a distance of half a meter is observed. If necessary, mineral wool insulation can be fixed between the racks of the frame. Wooden racks are pre-treated with compounds from mold and wood-eating insects.

For your information! Minus wooden frame in that it is sensitive to temperature and humidity. That is why professionals advise using a metal profile.

Finishing a room with clapboard can begin from the floor or ceiling, as it is more convenient for the master. In the second case, it is easier to hide undercuts with a regular skirting board. Sheathing elements can be fastened with ordinary nails or clamps. Between the fragments of the coating, you can leave a small gap, it is not necessary to join them closely.

If the rail is shorter than the wall of the room, you can use butt elements - special strips.

How can you paint the lining

For a finished look, you can cover the skin with a varnish composition or paint. Which option is better to decide?

Varnishes for woodwork can vary in composition and are:

water;
alkyd;
polyurethane;
acrylic;
acrylic polyurethane.

Acrylic-based lacquer dries quickly and is suitable for indoor finishing works. It is moisture resistant and high temperatures. Has different color solutions. Lining with such a coating is easy to wash if necessary.

Universal output - polyurethane varnish. This is the only coating that prevents light wood from turning yellow. For light shades of varnish, you need to use a transparent primer.

Alkyd-based varnishes dry for a long time. Sometimes special solutions are added to the composition to speed up drying. Alkyd varnish has a pungent smell that will stand in the room for a long time. But on the other hand, this coating, like no other, will reliably protect the wood from moisture.

Water varnish is absolutely harmless to humans. It does not emit toxic substances, dries quickly. This varnish can cover the walls in the children's room.

You can paint a tree with different dyes. But it is better to give preference to water-based or acrylic-based paint.

For your information! If you need to update the walls, lined with clapboard, they can be easily repainted. It is necessary to pre-sand the surface with an emery or grinder and apply a new coating.

For decoration wooden house it is best to use natural materials that will only emphasize all the advantages of the structure. As such a material can be used natural wooden lining, which is attractive, durable, environmentally friendly and has excellent thermal insulation properties. Interior decoration clapboard of a wooden house is characterized by extreme simplicity. It does not take much time, but the appearance is stylish.

Advantages of wooden lining

Clapboard trim will add solidity to any home. These panels are distinguished not only by their attractive appearance, but also provide an unusually pleasant aroma of natural wood in the room.

A comfortable microclimate is created in the rooms, the tree has the ability, if necessary, to absorb or release moisture. Plus, additional insulation of the house is created, heat losses become much less, which allows you to save on heating. Among artificial materials for finishing, wooden lining at a low cost wins significantly. You can use this material when decorating a house in country style, vintage.

Finishing a wooden house in ethnic style almost never does without lining. The coating is reliable, durable, warm.

The following advantages can also be noted:

Environmental friendliness and safety of use.
Simple surface treatment after installation, the fastening of the lining itself does not cause any difficulties. Even a novice master will cope with the work.
The coating is durable, resistant to mechanical damage, shock. It is wear-resistant, the surface does not fade in the sun. The only problem is that the tree burns, but this issue is also solved quite simply. There are a large number of special impregnations that make the panels resistant to heat and open flame.
The panels are resistant to the appearance of fungus and mold, they do not rot if necessary rules care.
The thermal insulation properties of the lining are high. This sheathing is even an additional layer of insulation, which significantly reduces heat loss, makes the microclimate inside the premises comfortable for residents.
The soundproofing properties are quite high, in such a house street noise will not be heard, the rooms will turn out to be well protected from extraneous sounds.
The appearance of the coating turns out to be stylish and attractive, there are many options for sheathing, unusually beautiful ornaments can be created from individual slats, especially for interior rooms relaxation in the baths. For a residential building, this method of finishing can also be used. Wood is suitable for bedrooms, kitchens, living rooms.
During finishing under the surface of the boards, communications can be easily hidden.

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What is the lining made from?

Classification of lining.

For the manufacture of finishing material used only natural wood. This process is not the easiest, it is necessary to use special equipment. The quality of the resulting panels largely depends on how well all stages of production are followed, what kind of wood is chosen. The main stages of production:

First, an edged board is made from a timber harvest.
Boards are dried using industrial equipment.
Next, the crucial stage begins, which consists in sawing the tongue-and-groove joint for mounting the lining.
The panels are sanded to get the finished look.
After all the panels of one batch are produced, they are sorted.

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Sheathing in the house clapboard

Ways of fastening lining with a different profile.

Finishing a wooden house can be done various materials, but the best option is an natural lining. It gives the house an additional charm, the walls are breathable, their thermophysical properties are improved. Installation of this type of coating is simple, it is quite possible to cope with it yourself. To sheathe inside wooden house special lining, it is necessary to prepare the following tools and materials:

wooden beam with dimensions of 60 * 27 * 2500 mm;
lining boards with dimensions of 130 * 18 * 2500 mm;
a wooden beam with dimensions of 75 * 75 mm, which is pre-treated with special copper salts;
planed wooden planks, whose thickness is 18 mm, it is necessary to calculate the thickness based on which walls were used during construction, whether additional thickness is required for better thermal insulation, strength; it also matters what kind of sheathing is required for window and door openings;
galvanized nails with dimensions of 6 * 60 mm;
galvanized nails, the length of which is 40 mm, 60 mm;
metal brackets;
self-tapping screws 10 * 130 mm with plastic dowels;
self-tapping screws 4 * 45 mm, designed for fastening the skin in the corners;
special mastic with fast hardening properties, which is made on the basis of polyurethane or acrylic;
hammer, drill, hacksaw, spatula.

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Installation of lining on the walls

Sheathing rules are simple. Finishing the clapboard of a wooden house consists in choosing one of three methods for attaching the material to the surface of the walls:

The plank of the skin is nailed to the wall with nails from the side of the tongue installed in the longitudinal position. Nails are driven in obliquely.
Nails are driven into clips or clips. In this case, the finish will turn out to be more accurate and attractive, outwardly the fasteners turn out to be completely invisible. In addition to nails, staples can also be used, it all depends on which method will be more convenient.
Interior finishing is done according to front side, nails are nailed along the groove.

There are several mounting methods. The first of them involves the beginning of the sheathing from the bottom of the wall, for which a wooden plank with dimensions of 20 * 20 mm is attached first. It will play the role of starting for all other sheathing boards. For fasteners, special galvanized nails with a length of 40 mm and 60 mm will be used. The interior decoration according to the second method is slightly different. The starting board is attached from above, it will act as the basis for all further fasteners. It is necessary to start installation from the ceiling, stepping back 5 mm, and then start fastening from the corner of the wooden planks.

The planks are attached to the crate in the chosen way, but it must be remembered that the nails are driven deep, the hats must be sunk, but try not to damage the tree itself.

Staples or nails are driven inside in such a way that they are not visible on the front side. When the first bar is installed, you can begin fixing the second. To do this, insert the spike into the groove, achieve a tight connection of the boards. During operation, it is required to constantly use a plumb line to make the surface as smooth as possible. All subsequent sheathing is performed in a similar way.

For the soul, a feeling of coziness and peace, for the body - a state of comfort, and for health - an environmentally friendly atmosphere, all this is given to the premises by the decoration of the walls with clapboard made of wood. As an option for wall cladding, you can use plastic lining, laminate, MDF panels and other materials for wall decoration of artificial origin. However, even with a wood grain pattern, they will not be able to create the effect of a hearth, but organically “finish” the walls only in offices.

Basic information

The experience of several generations of carpenters-finishers gives a clear understanding of the fact that do-it-yourself wall cladding with clapboard requires not only skillful handling of the tool, but also knowledge about the material with which to work, and how to properly sheathe walls and partitions.

Lining refers to the finishing raw materials of the seamless group, which is achieved by the presence of special connections (locks) between each component of the lining. According to the place of application, the material is divided into internal and external finishing. The lining is made from hardwood or resin-containing wood species, as well as from artificially developed products of the polymer group.

In this article, we will focus on a narrow segment of the finishing material - lining made of wood raw materials for interior finishing applications. It is produced from such hardwoods as linden, oak, ash, larch, from conifers, spruce and pine predominate, less often, as a very expensive and valuable breed, Siberian cedar.

Cheapness and ease of processing and installation brought pine sheathing boards to the fore in popularity and prevalence.

Classification parameters

The lining is classified according to the type of lock connection, grade and profile section.

According to the type of connection, the facing board is divided into "end" and "ridge" locks. The end boards are joined using the tongue and groove method, and the ridge boards are connected in a quarter. These two types of connecting nodes allow you to end up with a seamless clapboard wall covering.

The grade class determines the quality of processing and the appearance of the facing material and has the following gradations:

"Extra" is made from dried wood and has a plain surface without flaws;
"A-class" - the normalized presence of knots is set in the amount of 1 pc. 1.5 m length;
"B-class" - allowed for 1.5 m running length no more than 4 defects;
"S-class" - the number of knots is not standardized, it is allowed to be present on front surface resin stains and cracks;
"D-class" - low-grade material with the presence of chips, cracks, holes from fallen knots, etc. on the front side. defects.

According to the profile section and the depth of the tongue-and-groove lock, the lining for walls is divided into the following types:

“Simple” - undergoes double-sided grinding of surfaces, is the ancestor of the “Eurostandard”, but with a lock that is smaller in depth of capture, the section is rectangular, hence the corresponding name;
"Standard", "Eurostandard" or "Eurolining" - differs in 4-sided grinding, can be used not only for wall cladding, but also for finishing ceilings;
"Softline" - wide lining for walls with rounded edges;
"American" - in the mounted position, it imitates overlapped planks, thanks to the security of the lock, the groove of which is made in the thick part of the lining, it is applicable for facing external walls;
"Block house" - one of the varieties of facing materials such as "lining", imitates the appearance of a stacked rounded log, which creates the appearance of a wall of a wooden house, is used for cladding the walls of buildings, but can also be mounted inside a large area;
"Finca" - has an oval-shaped cut, a more noble outward design in comparison with the "Block House"; focused on interior finishing works;
"Landhouse" is a continuation of the "Eurostandard" class, the plank has a profiled cut and a figured front part, it is applicable for inner lining clapboard;
"Volna" is a decorative and embossed cladding board that can be easily combined with lining of other profiles thanks to a unified lock.

Materials, tools and inventory

Before embarking on such repair work, as wall decoration with clapboard, it is necessary to assemble all the tools that will be involved in the process of installing the cladding, as well as the materials to be installed. In the end, the list of necessary accessories will look like this:

vapor barrier (polyethylene, roofing material, foil) and insulation (based on mineral wool);
bars (for example, 20 by 40 mm, as the most acceptable size and therefore widely used for all types of facing boards) and the lining itself;
self-tapping screws 60 mm long and a dowel 6 mm, this is the case when the load-bearing wall is brick or concrete, if the wall is wooden, then wood screws 5.5 mm long are needed;
special stainless steel nails with a size of 2 by 40 mm for attaching a lining strip “to a tongue” or a set of clamps with wood screws 15 mm long, a hammer, a construction or furniture stapler for attaching a vapor barrier to rails;
electric jigsaw or wood saw with a miter box (a special device for cutting at angles of 90 and 45 degrees);
a screwdriver with a cross nozzle for self-tapping screws and a set of drills for wood (if you have a powerful professional screwdriver, you can refuse a drill), as well as a puncher and a drill with a diameter that matches the diameter of the dowels for driving screws;
moisture-repellent and antiseptic impregnations for processing bars and lining, a colorless primer for wood, as well as a colorless varnish with a water base that does not emit an unpleasant odor and emphasizes the texture of wood.

It is advisable to make a list in advance necessary tools, pick them up and fold them so that they are always “at hand”, this saves time, and then the forcing of the wall from the lining is not interrupted in search of the necessary equipment.

Wall surface preparation

Before sheathing the walls with clapboard and proceeding directly with the installation of the facing strip, the walls must first be prepared and provided with hydro, steam and thermal insulation.

The surface of the walls is cleaned of dirt and dust. In a closed and poorly ventilated area where installation work, for these purposes it is best to use a vacuum cleaner. From small surfaces, dust can also be removed with a household vacuum cleaner in the absence of an industrial one.

brick and concrete walls are treated with water-repellent and antiseptic impregnation to prevent the appearance of fungal colonies under the facing surface and mold. Walls built of wood are additionally treated with antipyretic and antibacterial compounds. The former increase the fire resistance of the walls (the wood does not ignite, but smolders), while the latter create conditions in the internal fibers of the wood that prevent the reproduction of pests, their larvae, and bacteria that destroy the structure of the tree.

Waterproofing (hydrobarrier) is installed on the unfinished walls of houses built of wood, for example, from a log house. Brick or concrete walls do not need additional waterproofing and are the first protective layer for them there is a vapor barrier, especially for walls, the outer part of which faces the street. The vapor barrier layer (it can be polyethylene, roofing felt or foil) is fastened to strips pre-mounted on the wall with a thickness of at least 15 mm and a width of 30 mm. When installing planks for vapor barrier, a level is used and the landing plane is leveled, then the lining of the walls with clapboard will not be interrupted for its alignment. The orientation of the installation of the strips depends on the position in which - horizontal or vertical - the lining will be installed.

The orientation of the vapor barrier installation strips is important, since they will be used for mounting the grating, on which the lining strips will be directly attached. For example, if the lining will go in a vertical direction, then the sheathing bars are fixed in a horizontal position, and the vapor barrier strips in a vertical position and vice versa.

The vapor barrier is fastened by using a construction or furniture stapler, while it does not stretch too much so that it does not crack during temperature changes, but without sagging places where condensate can accumulate.

Mounting methods

The lining is not critical in installation to the building material from which the walls are expelled. It is easily attached to both brick, concrete, cinder and foam block walls, as well as to wooden surfaces. The difference is only in the set of tools and fasteners. In practice, 5 methods are used to reliably install the internal lining from the facing strip on the walls, which can be carried out even by non-professionals with minimal carpentry skills.

A day before the start of work, the lining is brought into the room in which the installation will be carried out. This is done so that the wood has time to adapt to the climate in the room and acquire the ambient temperature throughout its thickness.

With horizontal installation of the facing strip, the lower lining is laid first with a tongue down to the floor. When laying the cladding planks vertically, the leftmost one is fixed to the wall with a tongue and groove first.

Method 1. Fastening is carried out using a special fastener, which is called a "kleimer". In its sole, which is adjacent to the bar, 3 holes were made - two oblong along the edges and one round in the center.

The next plank in the installation is inserted with a tongue into the groove of the previous mounted lining and the gaps are adjusted.

You should not tightly knock down the planks with each other, since if moisture gets into the place of joining, the wood can swell and squeeze the entire cladding structure away from the wall.

Kleimers are put on the internal grooves of the installed bar and two side screws are screwed (nails are allowed), then the gaps are adjusted with a hammer at the places where the clamps are installed and the central screw is screwed in, thereby fixing the bar in its place.

Walls that were sheathed with kleimers are characterized by a perfect seam and a long service life.

Method 2. Before sheathing, a hole is drilled in the plank with a diameter equal to half the diameter of the wood screws used. Using a screwdriver, the self-tapping screw is driven into the board to such a depth that its head enters the wood by a couple of millimeters. The hole made by the hat is closed with a pin from the same type of wood from which the lining is made. The pin is polished to the level of the front of the board, but so that it does not protrude and does not sink into the body of the lining. This method is most often used when lining walls in saunas and baths.

Method 3. Fixation occurs by driving a nail into the lower cut of the groove at an angle of 45 degrees. Finishing the nail head to the depth of entry into the body of the plank, on which it will not interfere with the free entry into the tongue groove of the next plank, is carried out using a metal rod with a diameter equal to the size of the nail head.

Method 4. It is used on lining type "Simple", "Peasant Woman", "Collective Farm Woman" and those that have "comb" locks. In the lower plane of the ridge groove, a hole is drilled 2 times smaller than the diameter of the wood screw, which will be used for fastening. The next operation is to remove the chamfer on the hole for the screw head. With the help of a screwdriver, the self-tapping screw is screwed in to such a depth that its head fully enters the chamfer and does not interfere with the installation of the next part.

Method 5th. Fastening is carried out with brackets driven at an angle of 45 degrees into the lower cut of the groove. The operation is performed using a construction stapler, best of all electric, since a mechanical stapler can, when pressed, change the angle of entry of the bracket into the tree.

You can follow step by step how to properly sheathe the walls with clapboard by watching the video:

Completion of work

The final chord of the work will be the installation of skirting boards, slopes and corners to hide the gaps at the joints and between the floor and the lining, just as trimming would not have been done, but they will always be. Depending on the relief of the front part of the lining, the entire facing array is ground either with a grinder (with a smooth front part of the plank), or manually using sandpaper of 150 grit.

The next steps will be removing dust and applying a primer. The primer must dry completely (the terms for complete drying of the composition are indicated on the package), after which grinding occurs again.

The last step to getting the finished lining from the lining will be its two-layer varnish coating.

By following all the steps in a clear sequence, you can achieve a perfectly even coating that will last for many years.