Outside frame insulation. How to do the insulation of the walls of a frame house from the inside with your own hands? General scheme of external insulation

The construction of frame structures has become popular due to its simplicity. The process comes down to elementary actions, something like collecting objects from a Lego constructor. Insulation of a frame house is also done by hand (this is not step-by-step instruction, but the usual recommendations).

It is necessary to consider what materials the insulation will be made of, in some cases it is advisable to save money, for example, if the house is intended exclusively for living in the summer.

For all-season buildings, insulation should be carried out in accordance with all the rules, the most quality materials.

Material selection

One of the main parameters that the material must comply with is its elasticity. Styrofoam and related products may not be suitable. The fact is that the elements of the frame (if we are talking about a frame made of wood) will change their dimensions due to changes in temperature and humidity of the surrounding air. In this case, gaps will appear between the bars and the insulation panels, which will affect the overall thermal insulation of the house.

And the elastic material will fill the entire space between the bars.

For metal frame houses You can use any materials, for example, expanded polystyrene.

Basalt wool

The most common material. It is obtained by melting mountain basalt. Perfectly retains heat, has soundproofing properties. The downside is the change in properties when moisture is absorbed. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully protect it with the help of special films.

Basalt materials are the most fireproof, withstand heating temperatures up to 1000 degrees.

When buying, it is better to focus on the material in the form of plates, the packaging should indicate that the insulation is intended for walls, otherwise after 2-3 years the basalt panels will shrink and cold air will penetrate through the top.

Ecowool

This type of insulation is made from cellulose. There are two ways to insulate with ecowool:

With the help of special equipment, cotton wool particles are mixed with water drops, this mixture is sent into the space between the cells of the frame. In this case, a dense coating is formed that fills the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe walls;

The dry method consists in pouring ecowool particles into the space between the wall panels, after which the mass is compacted.

As a result, layers of insulation are obtained that are not afraid of either temperature changes or humidity, therefore, additional protection with various films is not needed.

The cost of the material and the prices for the work performed are the only negative aspects of this technology.

glass wool

Produced by melting glass. Sold, as a rule, in the form of rolls. It is distinguished by decent heat-insulating properties and resistance to fire, does not emit toxic substances during combustion.

Be sure to check when buying that the material is intended specifically for walls.

Bulk materials

This type includes slag, expanded clay, sawdust. They are rarely used, as there are more effective heaters.

Sometimes they are used for thermal insulation of the floor, as the first layer, after which other types of insulation are laid, in particular, expanded clay, which does not absorb moisture, does not burn, but its thermal insulation properties are not too high.

The tool you need to get the job done

Warming a frame house with your own hands will not require any complex devices and fixtures. To carry out the work you will need the following tools:

Roulette;
Marker (pencil, chalk);
Tool for cutting metal - grinder, electric scissors;
A large knife for cutting the insulation material, you can use a homemade one made from an old hacksaw;
Screwdriver for fastening cladding elements;
A construction stapler for fixing a plastic film (if it is not available, you can use a soft wire);
Other tools may be needed - a building hair dryer, a hammer, screwdrivers, a wood jigsaw and others.

In addition, you need to prepare a stepladder and a long ladder for working on the roof.

Implementation of work - floor insulation

Dirt is removed from the insulated surfaces of the frame, damp areas must be dried with a hairdryer, gaps in the structure must be filled mounting foam.

If electrical wiring is supposed to be placed inside the walls, then this should be taken care of in advance. The cable should be laid according to the wiring plan, cutting out the necessary technological holes in the ceilings, securing junction boxes, marking the position of switches and sockets.

If the house will be installed: a heating boiler, plumbing, and other additional appliances, then it is better to make all the holes necessary for them (for pipelines, sewage drains, connections) in advance.

The first step is to waterproof the floor. To do this, a special film is attached, and each next canvas should overlap the previous one by 5-10 cm. It is aimed with a stapler.

The heat-insulating material is cut into strips or squares, depending on the shape of the cells between the boards (lags), the pieces should fit snugly into place. Considering that the standard width of a mineral wool sheet is 60 cm, the cell width should be 58-59 cm. After laying the thermal insulation, it should be covered with a vapor barrier film on top.

The thickness of the insulation layer can be different. It is necessary to focus on the region of residence and the required degree of insulation: the lower the temperature in winter, the thicker the floor will be and more layers of mineral wool must be laid. If several layers are spread, then they should overlap the joints of the previous ones by about 15 cm.

After laying the thermal insulation, cover it on top with a vapor barrier film. For better tightness, you can glue the joints with double-sided tape. This will not only be a good protection against moisture, but also additional protection from the wind.

After that, you can start laying plywood or OSB-board material on the floor, this layer will be the basis for the finished floor.

Insulating the walls of a frame panel house with your own hands is a little more difficult than the floor.

The technology is about the same as with floor insulation.

The wall is sheathed on one side, for example, with plywood. Between the plates there should be gaps - about 2-3 mm. These gaps can be filled with mounting foam, and then cut off the excess protruding above the plane.

After that, you can begin to stretch the waterproofing film to protect both the frame and the house itself from moisture from the outside. It is recommended to glue the joints with adhesive tape (some types of film have self-adhesive strips at the ends).

Now you should lay the insulation boards, if a distance of about 60 cm is maintained between the boards, then the sheets will be laid tightly, if not, you will have to temporarily fix them (you can, for example, stretch a strip of adhesive tape along the entire length of the wall).

The average thickness of the insulation is 15 cm, however, if necessary, several layers can be used with an overlap of previously laid at the joints, by about 10-15 cm.

A vapor barrier film is stretched over the insulation to protect it from moisture that will come from inside the house. It is necessary to carefully stretch the film at the corners, repeating the contours as accurately as possible, otherwise then difficulties may arise with the final finish.

After fixing the vapor barrier, OSB panels or plywood are nailed, on which finishing finishing materials (wallpaper, tiles, lining) will later be attached. To save money, if it is definitely decided to finish with clapboard or similar materials, you can use boards instead of sheet materials, they can be nailed at some distance from each other.

Advice. Exterior wall decoration can be carried out not only from the inside of the house, but also from the outside. That is, first the internal panels are nailed, and all further operations for laying cotton wool are carried out from the street.

This can be convenient if the house is not very large.

Insulation of internal walls is needed, most of all, for sound insulation, so there is no need to install a film.

To do this, soundproof materials are used, it can be the same mineral wool, foam boards, various combined materials.

Warming a frame house with your own hands is a responsible process, and when working with a ceiling, it is also not very convenient. It is best to carry out work while the roof is not yet fully ready, so it will be more convenient to work.

The rules are simple: the vapor barrier membrane is again applied, stretched from inside the house and attached to the ceiling beams.

Installed on it sheet material(plywood, OSB) or boards (a distance of about 40 cm is maintained between the boards).

Mineral wool is laid on top, according to the same rules as in other cases. Overlapping previous joints (with an allowance). It is important to cover the entire ceiling, along with the planes that are located above the walls.

If the attic space is not heated, then vapor barrier film will not need. Can be sheathed with sheet material.

Insulation of the ceiling is important, because if the insulation is not correct, warm air will very quickly leave the house through the top.

Roof insulation

It is of great importance if the attic will be heated and used as a living space. In other cases, work is not necessary, or it can be insulated to a minimum.

There are a number of subtleties that can help in the work:

Most convenient way- insulation from the outside: the insulation is easier to lay, the film is easier to stretch.

Immediately after installation roof structure it is recommended to attach a vapor barrier film, and not to it - to nail sheet material or boards.

Using a ladder, you can climb outside to the roof slopes and lay out the insulation.

Stretch the film from above and install the crate, and then the roof itself.

Features of insulation with various materials

In addition to mineral wool and analogues, apply different kinds heaters.

Styrofoam and similar materials

Styrofoam is difficult to lay, avoiding gaps between it and the wooden frame, so you will have to carefully foam all the defects. Such materials do not allow air to pass through, you need to carefully consider the ventilation of your home. Polyethylene films still need to be used, although the foam is not afraid of moisture, the vapor barrier membrane should protect the frame of the house.

Finally, polystyrene foam is very fond of rodents who make labyrinths in it, this must be taken into account.

Ecowool

This material, although it allows you to apply it manually, without special equipment, however, experts do not advise doing this.

Ecowool shrinks up to about 15% over time, so you will have to make some margin when applying it.

When applied by hand, it is almost impossible to achieve the same quality and final thermal insulation properties as when using a special tool.

Expanded clay

Often used to insulate either the floor or the ceiling, it is possible to insulate the ceilings between floors. A feature is the need for a good base on which the insulation is laid out. There should be no gaps, otherwise the expanded clay will fall out.

For the best effect, expanded clay is used in the form of the most crushed fraction, in combination with materials such as sawdust. In this case, all voids will be filled.

Finally

So warm up frame house do-it-yourself is not so difficult, step-by-step instructions for work are not needed. All work on all types of floors is carried out in approximately the same way.

If there are “men with hands” in the family who know how to work with simple tools, a frame house can be assembled independently on a suburban area. But in order to live in a frame house all year round, without fear of cold and heat, its walls will need to be insulated thermal insulation materials.

Wall insulation in a frame structure can be done with expanded polystyrene, ecowool, a mixture of straw and clay, sawdust concrete, and other bulk materials. One of the most popular insulation for frame houses today are basalt fiber slabs.

The reason for the popularity is simple: firstly, this material is non-combustible, which is very important for wooden house. Secondly, it perfectly retains heat, while being vapor-permeable, environmentally friendly (completely harmless to humans and animals), and also very durable (manufacturers give a guarantee for the product for at least 50 years). Another advantage is the ease of working with this heater. Mineral wool boards are light, easy to cut, not loose during processing, do not emit any harmful odors, retain their shape well, do not sag or wrinkle over the years.

Basalt insulation is not affected by mold, attacks by rodents and insects, and therefore is well suited for insulating floors along logs, insulating walls and roofs.

Modern thermal insulation based on basalt fiber reduces construction costs, since the installation of lightweight heat-saving slabs does not require strengthening the foundation and load-bearing structures.

Basalt insulation maintains a comfortable microclimate inside the premises: the air warms up evenly in all rooms, natural ventilation of the air layers occurs. In the summer, insulated walls keep cool inside the building, saving residents from the heat; in winter, they retain heat for a long time, saving the cost of heating the home.

Fiber protects load-bearing enclosing structures from temperature extremes, prolonging the life of the building, and also performs a soundproofing function.

If the listed advantages seem attractive to you, and you want to insulate the walls of a frame house yourself, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the tips on the use of new generation thermal insulation materials from TechnoNICOL, created on the basis of a biopolymer binder.

Installation rules

Reliably insulate country house You can follow the following order of layers:

The first layer from the inside - a reinforced vapor barrier film - is designed to protect against internal moisture. It is rolled out from a roll and fixed with a stapler with inside wooden on butyl rubber tape - in places of contact with wooden beams. The joints of the vapor barrier are glued with adhesive tape.

Note that the vapor barrier of the insulation from the side of the room is a strictly mandatory element of the proposed system. The main task This layer is to protect the insulation mats from the penetration of moist warm air into the material. Therefore, it is important that the vapor barrier layer is airtight and continuous, without gaps and gaps. Film sheets must be glued together; The vapor barrier must fit snugly against adjoining elements and structures. During installation and during interior decoration protect this thin layer from any mechanical damage, punctures and scratches.

The second stage is thermal insulation slabs, which are tightly fixed between the uprights. wooden frame(the master takes measurements and cuts the slabs under right size). The width of the cut material should be 1-2 cm wider than the distance between the frame posts. Due to its elasticity, the slabs of stone wool stand up well and do not require additional fixation.

For better heat retention, such insulation is usually installed in two layers, with the plates of each new layer shifted relative to each other by half their length (to eliminate cold bridges). The calculation of the thickness of the insulation takes place depending on the region of construction.

To protect against external influences, the slabs are covered with a TECHNONICOL hydro-windproof membrane, which is attached to the frame posts with a stapler. The membrane layers at the joints are fixed to each other with adhesive tape.

Before installing the facade cladding material, a counter-batten is fixed on the work surface, a marker is made according to the level for installing the finish. In the final, the facade is clad with any decorative panels(siding, block house), the installation of which takes place from the bottom - up.

Installation can be carried out both from the inside to the outside, and vice versa: first install the outer skin, and then mount the thermal insulation from the side of the room. The latter option is most preferable in the Russian climate - because of the danger of sudden rain. During installation, it is recommended to protect the heat-insulating boards from the effects of precipitation.

Stone wool slabs should also be protected from moisture during storage. Therefore, it is necessary to store packs of basalt insulation strictly under a canopy, or in covered storage facilities. Installation is best done after the outer walls are already sheathed with a wind-, moisture-proof film and finishing material. In case of installation with outer side buildings, it is important to carry out work with grabs in order to exclude the possibility of wetting products during precipitation.

The solution described above from the company TechnoNIKOL with an environmentally friendly, fireproof, excellent heat-saving stone wool material is easy to implement with your own hands; it is easy to operate and will last for many years without repair.

In recent years, a frame structure has been increasingly chosen for the construction of houses, which is much cheaper in cost compared to the construction of brick, block, or log walls. In addition, the process of mounting the frame takes much less time than raising the main walls. However, without proper insulation, it will be impossible to live in such a house. Therefore, the question of which insulation is best for a frame house becomes relevant for all potential owners of such housing.

Thermal insulation in frame buildings should not only provide comfortable temperature regime indoors, but at the same time make the house quiet. Thus, heaters must also have good soundproofing qualities. In addition, there are a number of important criteria that must be taken into account when choosing materials for the insulation of the "framework". All this will be discussed in the proposed publication.

The main criteria for choosing a heater for a frame house

The first step is to figure out what properties the insulation should have in order for it to be effective for heat and sound insulation. frame walls at home and as safe as possible for people living in the building.

So, it is necessary that the material meets the following requirements:

It should be well combined with the material of the frame, that is, with a wooden beam.
Optimal material - the most environmentally friendly
Insulation should be selected with the expectation of the longest possible service life, which should not be less than the service life of the wood selected for the construction of the frame.
Moisture resistance, that is, the ability to resist moisture absorption (as a percentage of volume or mass), which can have a destructive effect on the material and drastically reduce its insulating qualities.
The coefficient of thermal conductivity - the lower it is, the better the insulation, since the main function of thermal insulation is to minimize heat loss.
Vapor permeability. Ideally, the material should be "breathable", that is, not prevent the release of water vapor. Only in this case, moisture will not accumulate in its structure and on the border between it and the wall surface, which becomes a favorable environment for various microflora - fungus, mold, etc., which can cause serious damage to the structure.
The insulation should not attract rodents, otherwise they will settle in it for permanent residence, laying passages and equipping nests.
For frame houses, fire safety is of particular importance. Ideally, the material should be non-combustible, or at least as resistant to fire as possible.

Thermal insulation materials can be divided into three types according to the method of application - these are backfill, sprayed and slab (roll) installed between frame racks.

Filling heaters are expanded clay, foam glass, ecowool and sawdust.
Sprayed heat insulators - polyurethane foam and ecowool, applied by "wet" technology.
Plate or roll insulation - polystyrene foam various types, mineral wool, foam glass, linen, fibreboard and cork boards.

Each of these materials has its own characteristics and differs in technical and operational characteristics. To make a choice, it is necessary to consider each of them in more detail, both in terms of its main qualities, and from the standpoint of ease of use.

Used for thermal insulation of frame structures modern materials and traditional, familiar to builders for decades. Since all heaters were classified above into three groups according to the method of their application, their characteristics will be discussed further in accordance with this division.

Bulk type heaters

This type of material is used in construction for thermal insulation of walls, ceilings and floors along logs. These include expanded clay, granulated foam glass, ecowool and sawdust.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is natural material, which has been used to insulate different parts of the building for a very long time, and has fully justified its purpose. It is produced in the form of gravel (granules) of different fractions, sand and crushed stone.

Expanded clay is used in construction not only as a filling insulation, but also in combination with concrete mortar. The latter option is called expanded clay concrete and is most often used as an insulating layer under concrete screed floors of the first floor on the ground.

Expanded clay is produced from refractory clays, which undergo special heat treatment at high temperatures, are brought to melting, swelling and sintering of the material. As a result of these processes, expanded clay granules acquire a porous structure, which provides the material with low thermal conductivity. Expanded clay has the following characteristics:

High level of thermal insulation. Expanded clay is made from clay, which is one of the "warm" natural materials, and the air structure of the granules helps to reduce the thermal conductivity of the clay.
It has a low weight, which is ten times lower than the mass of concrete. Therefore, it is suitable for warming light buildings, as it does not give a large load on the foundation and the wooden formwork into which it is backfilled.
The material is absolutely environmentally friendly - it does not contain any synthetic and toxic substances.
Expanded clay is inert to chemical and biological influences.
The material is vapor-permeable, that is, it is “breathable”, which does not allow the walls to become waterlogged.
Moisture resistance of the material is important - it does not absorb and does not retain water.
Expanded clay will not create any problems for people prone to allergic reactions.
The material calmly, without losing its insulating properties, withstands very low winter and high summer temperatures.
The heater is not flammable. It does not support combustion, does not emit smoke, even if it gets into an open fire, so it can be called a fireproof material.
Rodents and insects do not live in expanded clay, which makes this material indispensable for warming a private house. From small-fraction expanded clay, they even often make an embankment under the house, as it helps protect the building from mice.
Long service life. It is difficult to talk about any specific time periods, but the frame house itself will survive such a heater for sure.

Expanded clay has its own letter and number marking from M300 to M700, but unlike other building materials, it does not indicate strength, but the bulk density of the insulation, which depends on its fraction.

Expanded clay sand has a grain fraction of 0.13 ÷ 5.0 mm, it is used for backfilling as a heater in walls of relatively small thickness, up to 50 mm.
Expanded clay gravel has a fraction of 5 ÷ 50 mm, and it is excellent for the manufacture of expanded clay concrete.
Expanded clay crushed stone differs from gravel in that it has an angular shape. It is obtained by crushing or rejecting the gravel mass. The size of the crushed stone fraction can vary from 5 to 40 mm.

The use of expanded clay for the insulation of frame walls can be considered a completely justified option, since this material combines excellent performance and ease of installation - they can isolate any structure in shape. It should be noted that this material is suitable not only for backfilling in frames wooden walls, but also three-layer brick or reinforced concrete enclosing structures.

The disadvantage is not too outstanding thermal insulation performance against the background of other materials. If expanded clay is chosen as a heater, then in order to achieve the desired effect, the thickness of its layer must be at least 200 ÷ 300 mm, or it is used in combination with other heat-insulating materials.

Foam glass in granules

In addition to the well-known expanded clay, foam glass produced in granules is used in approximately the same way.

Foam glass is not used as widely as expanded clay, although it has higher thermal insulation performance. Apparently, the lack of information about this material affects. This material has been produced at Russian enterprises since the 30s of the XX century, and it is intended specifically for the insulation of buildings. Foam glass can be purchased in bulk or in the form of plates. Loose material is used to isolate the structural departments of the building - it is poured into the floor space along the logs, attic floors, and also into the cavity of the frame walls.

In addition, granulated foam glass is mixed with concrete for arranging insulation under the screed.

The material is an environmentally friendly product, as sand and glass cullet are used for its manufacture. The raw material is crushed to a powder, then mixed with carbon. The last component contributes to the foaming of the mixture and gas formation - this process makes the material porous, filled with air and light. Pellets are made in special furnaces with rotating chambers, into which blanks - pellets - are filled in advance. The fraction of granules can be different - large, having a size of 8 ÷ 20 mm, medium - 5 ÷ 7 mm and fine 1.5 ÷ 5 mm. The main characteristics of this material are presented in the comparative table at the end of the publication.

Expanded clay prices

expanded clay

Foam glass is resistant to chemical and biological influences, moisture resistant, solid material. In addition, it does not collect or emit dust, and does not contain substances to which allergy sufferers are sensitive. The hardness of the material and the absence of any nutrients protects it from rodents.

The disadvantages of bulk foam glass can only be attributed to its high cost. True, if you closely calculate the "accounting" of insulation and compare it with cheaper expanded clay, then it's still worth seeing which material will be more profitable.

Loose foam glass is laid in the same way as expanded clay.

Ecowool (dry laying)

This material can be attributed to relative innovations in the field of insulation, but it is gradually gaining popularity due to its merits. To insulate frame structures, ecowool is used in two versions - in dry form, backfilling in the cavity, or according to the "wet" technology - spraying on the surface. The second method requires the use of special equipment, while the first one can be done on your own.

Ecowool is a mixture of paper waste and cellulose fibers, which occupy about 80% of the total mass of the insulation. In addition, the composition of the material includes a natural antiseptic - boric acid, which takes up to 12%, as well as a flame retardant - sodium tetraborate - 8%. These substances increase the resistance of the insulation to external influences.

Ecowool goes on sale in hermetically sealed polyethylene bags, in loose form, therefore, when choosing a dry method of wall insulation, it can be used immediately.

Ecowool has the following characteristic features:

Low thermal conductivity. Cellulose, of which this insulation mainly consists, has all the qualities of wood, which has been used for the construction of residential buildings for hundreds of years precisely because of the natural warmth of the material.
The lightness of the material, even when moistened, allows it to be used for thermal insulation of frame structures.
This is an environmentally friendly insulation that does not emit harmful fumes throughout the entire period of operation.
Pronounced vapor permeability. Ecowool does not retain moisture in its structure, therefore it does not require vapor barrier, which allows you to save some money when building a house.
Ecowool is resistant to biological influences, as it contains an antiseptic additive, as well as to chemicals.
This insulation can absorb moisture even up to 20% of the total mass, but it does not lose its heat-insulating qualities. Here it must be said that moisture does not linger in the structure, since the material is "breathable".
Resistance to low temperatures, that is, frost resistance of cotton wool.
Despite the flame retardant included in the insulation, the material belongs to the G2 combustibility group, that is, it is low-flammable and self-extinguishing. That is, smoldering of the material cannot be ruled out, but it will not become a flame spreader.
Mice and insects do not start in ecowool, as it contains boric acid.
It attracts in it a long service life and the possibility of recycling.

When dry laying ecowool in the wall, its consumption is 45÷70 kg/m³. Before work, the material is fluffed with an electric drill. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that over time, dry cotton wool will sag by about 15%, so the insulation must be well tamped. It is also important to know that when fluffing this material, there will be a large amount of dust and debris in the room, so it is best to work on the street or in outbuildings, and the respiratory tract must be protected by wearing a respirator.

Wall insulation with dry ecowool is carried out in two ways - backfilling and blowing.

Backfilling is carried out manually, into a gradually erected formwork, and blowing - into a space completely closed by a sheathing fixed on the frame racks. In order to blow in, special equipment is needed, into which ecowool is poured, fluffed up, and then, under pressure, it is fed into the empty space of the frame sheathed on both sides through drilled holes.

The stages of work on backfilling ecowool will be discussed below.

Sawdust as filling insulation for frame walls

Sawdust cannot be called a popular insulation, although they have been used for this purpose since time immemorial. We can say that this natural material was replaced by modern synthetic insulation. However, there are craftsmen who to this day do not refuse sawdust and shavings, successfully insulating the walls of frame houses with them.

It is believed that for the first time sawdust began to be used for insulation. frame buildings in Finland, where the climate is more severe than in most regions of Russia, and it should be noted that the material fully justified its purpose. But we must not forget that sawdust has not only advantages, but also its disadvantages, which you also need to know about.

To achieve the desired thermal insulation effect, it is necessary to choose hard wood sawdust - these are beech, maple, hornbeam, oak, alder and maybe pine, the moisture content of which should be no more than 20% of the total mass.

The disadvantages of sawdust used for insulation in its pure form, without processing them with special compounds, include their following features:

Flammability. Dry sawdust quickly ignites and burns, spreading fire to nearby combustible materials.
In a layer of sawdust, various insects and rodents feel good.
At high humidity sawdust may begin to rot, and mold may also form on them.
When moistened, sawdust can shrink significantly, in addition, their thermal conductivity increases, which reduces the heat-insulating effect.

Taking into account all the features of this natural insulating material, the master builders developed mixtures in which there are additives that level out all the shortcomings of sawdust.

For the manufacture of such a warming mixture, in addition to sawdust, the following materials will be required:

Cement, clay, lime or cement are the binding components of the mass.
Boric acid or copper sulphate are antiseptic substances.

Clay or cement is used in the sawdust mass if it is prepared to insulate the attic floor, sawdust is mixed with lime for floors, and a sawdust-gypsum mixture is usually used for walls.

The process of manufacturing a mixture for warming frame walls can be considered in the following proportions, based on its mixing in a construction wheelbarrow with a volume of 150 liters:

Sawdust is poured into the container, about ⅔ of the total volume, that is, about 100 liters. (0.1 m³).
Gypsum is added to the sawdust, it will take two liter cans. If it is insulated attic floor, clay is taken instead of gypsum, and lime for floors.
Further, in a bucket of water for 10 liters, 100 ml of boric acid or copper sulfate is diluted.
Then ready, well mixed water solution poured into a wheelbarrow with sawdust and one of the selected binder additives, after which all components must be mixed well. It must be remembered here that when using gypsum as a binder additive, the mixture must be poured into the formwork immediately after mixing, since gypsum, when mixed with water, remains in working condition for a few minutes. Therefore, a large amount of sawdust-gypsum mass cannot be kneaded. The thickness of the insulation layer of this material must be at least 150÷180 mm. After filling the mixture, it needs to be compacted only lightly, since after the binder has hardened, it should have an air-filled structure.

How the formwork is built will be discussed below, in the section on installation work.

This table presents a more accurate composition of sawdust-gypsum mixture, laid 150 mm thick for insulation of a house with a certain wall surface area.

Parameter name	Numerical indicators
Wall area of the house, (m²)	80	90	100	120	150
Number of sawdust, (in bags)	176	198	220	264	330
The amount of gypsum, (kg)	264	297	330	396	495
The amount of copper sulfate or boric acid, (kg)	35.2	39.6	44	52.8	66

Loose type insulation

The method of wall insulation with any backfill insulation material is almost identical, however, for each of them there are some nuances. It should be noted that there is nothing complicated in warming the frame structure, and the work can be easily done independently:

The first step is to sheathe the frame with plywood (OSB) or other material from the outside or inside. It is best to clad the structure from the street, especially in cases where it is planned to use wooden lining. Having fixed the boards from the front side of the house, you can calmly, slowly, work from the inside of the room, without fear of rain.
The next stage of the insulation process is to fix the strips of plywood or boards from the inside of the room from the floor, first to a height of 500 ÷ 800 mm. It will turn out a kind of formwork, into which the insulation will be poured, and then the insulation will be compacted.

When the cavity is filled with ecowool, the lining from the inside is increased higher. The newly formed space is again filled with ecowool and this continues until the wall is completely insulated. Experts advise leaving the formwork fixed for two to three days. During this time, the cotton fibers will bond well with each other and shrink a little, freeing up part of the space that must also be filled with cotton.

If sawdust is used for insulation, then the lower part of the formwork is left in place, and its following elements are fixed on top of it - plywood or boards, after which the space is also filled with insulation.
When the walls are insulated with ecowool, after filling all the free space with it, the formwork plywood is often removed, and from the inside of the house the frame can be sheathed with drywall or other facing material.
If another filling material is used, then drywall or finishing sheathing will have to be fixed on top of the formwork material.
If additional wall insulation is required, heat-insulating material is recommended to be mounted with outside buildings, before decorative cladding.
On the front side, the insulation material must be tightened with a hydro-windproof membrane.
When using sawdust or ecowool for backfilling the wall frame, it is recommended to use kraft paper as a waterproofing material. It is laid inside the formwork, spreading on the bottom and walls. After filling the insulation, to a height of approximately 200 ÷ 300 mm, the next sheet of waterproofing is laid on it, then the insulation - and so on.

Spray-on insulation

If you plan to use sprayed materials for insulation, then you immediately need to prepare for the extra costs of their installation, since special equipment is used for it. Moreover, installations for spraying polyurethane foam differ from those intended for working with ecowool.

Ecowool (spraying)

The application of ecowool, in addition to backfilling in the cavity, is also carried out by a “wet” or adhesive method. The fact is that cellulose contains a natural adhesive - lignin, and when the raw material is moistened, ecowool fibers acquire adhesive ability.

Ecowool prices

This quality of the material allows it to be used for insulation of vertical surfaces. Wall insulation is done in two ways:

Spraying the material between the racks of the frame after sheathing it on the outside or inside with plywood (OSB) or boards, and then leveling the wool over the racks using a special roller;

The frame is sheathed with plywood (OSB) on both sides, and then the empty space is filled with ecowool through holes drilled in the cladding, 55÷60 mm in size.

Both spraying and blowing ecowool into the space between the frame racks is carried out under pressure, which is created using special equipment.

In the capacity of the device there are special mechanical "mixers" for fluffing, whipping ecowool and moisturizing it throughout the volume.

Dry ecowool is filled into the bunker, where it is moistened and mixed, and then it enters the corrugated sleeve, through which it is sprayed onto the surface under pressure or blown into the sheathed frame.

If the filling of the wall will occur through a hole, then first it is drilled in the plywood sheathing. Then, in the resulting hole is installed rubber compressor and a pipe through which the fluffy and moistened ecowool is supplied.

When cotton wool is sprayed onto the surface and after it is leveled, the insulation is closed with a windproof material, after which you can proceed to the outer skin of the frame.

Today you can find simpler sets of equipment for blowing and spraying ecowool, for their independent use. However, when using such a device, ecowool will have to be fluffed manually before filling it, and this is additional time and a large amount of dust, which in a professional device is collected in a special dust bag.

Insulation for the walls of a frame house is selected depending on the structure of the walls, the frame material and its thickness. These three indicators are necessary for high-quality thermal insulation.

Today we will talk about how to insulate walls in a frame house and what is better to use for this. Also in the video in this article you can see different variants finishes and select the desired option from the photo.

Types of frame houses

Insulation will be selected depending on the material of the frame house. Therefore, before making a decision and such a construction, you should choose the right material for manufacturing.

There are several options for such buildings:

Rules for warming frame houses

Insulation for frame walls is determined from the building itself. There are two options here, and how to insulate the walls of a frame house is determined precisely by them.

Let's look at these two options:

Thermal insulation of the walls of the frame house from the inside	Only lightweight materials are suitable for this. The method itself is not effective enough, but if you have a small foundation, then it will do.
Thermal insulation for the walls of a frame house outside	This method is the most efficient. It is possible to use almost any insulation (if the width of the foundation allows). You do not take away the usable area, so you do not have to save on the thickness of the material.

Attention: How to insulate the walls of a frame house should not forget about the parameters of insulation. Their thickness affects not only thermal insulation, but also requires additional space. In the photo below you can see the necessary parameters.

Choosing the material of thermal insulation

In principle, all work can be done by hand. Instructions for performing insulation work are available for all types of material on our website.

Now we will choose the right heater. First of all, we make a thermotechnical calculation of the frame wall with the materials used. The structure of the insulation and its thermal conductivity are important here. In the photo you can see these indicators.

Now let's look at which insulation is best for the walls of a frame house, depending on the type of material.

Feature of stone wool slab

The most common and in demand among developers are the products of companies such as TechnoNIKOL and Rokwool. When choosing a warming material for the purpose of finishing a house, stone wool slabs are most often used.

Due to the great popularity of their use, several points can be noted that explain this:

For their use and application, no additional devices are required at all. During installation, you will need a regular knife and a hacksaw with fine teeth;
At the initial stage of insulating the frame of the house, a large amount of insulating material will be required, and in this case, you can certainly use paid delivery services. Rarely is anyone able to accurately calculate right amount material, but you can always buy the right amount of material and deliver it yourself or order delivery. And if the structure is small, then you will undoubtedly bring all the materials that are needed on your own;
When working with this type of material, you must always know that stone wool slabs must tightly fill the gaps between the racks of frame houses, while remembering that it is completely forbidden to compress and tamp them!
Further, the insulation materials laid in the place between the racks must be fenced off from moisture, which comes both from the outside and from the outside, and this can be done using a waterproofing film from the outside and a vapor barrier shell inside. It is important to take into account the prices of these films when calculating the total cost of insulation work with such plates.

Ecowool

Material such as cellulose fibers, in other words, "ecowool", has also become in great demand for insulation. This product is completely natural and does not require additional use of films, which will help you make your home as environmentally friendly as possible.

We will also consider a few points that characterize this material: Ecowool is attached quite simply and this makes it stand out in comparison with other materials.

In order to insulate the walls in a dry way, you will need to open what the package contains and beat. Further, the already whipped material is ready for use, which means you can tamp it into the walls to obtain the desired density. You can also use a special machine and blow the material, which will create the desired density;
This material has inherent shrinkage, which means that the dry method of laying will not always give you exactly the results that you want. After shrinkage of the fiber, heat loss occurs, which is a big disadvantage. But it should be noted that when purchasing ecowool, a guarantee is always given for 15-20 years that this material will not shrink;
The wet method implies that it is necessary to use certain equipment, thanks to which the fiber is sprayed onto the walls, thereby gluing it to the frame. In this case, fiber shrinkage does not occur. This method of insulation should be applied outside the walls before they are sheathed, but this is not always possible, and this is a minus.

Styrofoam

Looking for information on the forums, you will notice that there is a lot of discussion about the pros and cons of foam as an insulating material (see How to properly insulate a wall with foam tiles). Some believe that this material is not environmentally friendly, when ignited, it releases hazardous substances into the air, and the possibility of the appearance of rodents is not ruled out.

But first things first:

There are also cases when people insulated their house with polystyrene foam (see How to insulate walls with polystyrene foam) and having lived in it for about 5 years were more than satisfied with the quality of the material they chose. Having chosen this material, they did not find any difficulties with well-being, and also noted the absence of rodents.
However, there are episodes when the developer changed the foam plastic completely a year later due to its destruction by rodents. This material should not be written off, because, like all heaters, it has its pros and cons.
The value of this material is that it does not absorb moisture at all, which means additional ways protection is not needed. It is important when choosing foam to take not pressed. This method of insulation is the cheapest in comparison with the rest.
But he needs the most precision and skill. The specifics of this insulation were mentioned in the article "The step of the racks in a frame house."

Attention: Rodents start in the foam, so it is better not to use it for a private house.

Sprayed heaters

This type of home insulation is not yet widespread enough, and polyurethane foam is one of the most famous materials. Polyurethane foam - these are two special liquid elements, when mixed in all proportions and exposed to air under pressure, they foam.

When using this material, they fill all the spaces between the racks, and when an excess appears, they are cut off. Working with such a heater is a bit similar to working with mounting foam (see Liquid thermal insulation for walls: features of use).

This material has its advantages.

Let's consider each of them:

Polyurethane foam is able to interact with absolutely all surfaces that are used in the construction of houses. This material has a special quality that allows it to take various forms, thereby simplifying the application. It is also important that it is not necessary to treat the surface before using the material;
The insulation material itself is created directly on site. Transportation costs are also reduced, and material consumption is minimal;
Due to its structure, polyurethane foam is light and airy, which means that they can easily insulate roofs;
By creating coatings with this material, not only wall insulation is created, but their strength also increases;
This material is able to withstand high temperatures, which makes it completely versatile;
The use of polyurethane foam provides a single design of insulation without any joints and seams.

It should also be noted all the disadvantages of this insulation material.

There are only two downsides:

It wears out quickly if it is constantly exposed to ultraviolet radiation. For the normal functioning of this insulation system, it is necessary to create high-quality protection. Such protection can serve as plaster or paint, which can protect the material from the sun, as well as make appearance insulation more attractive;
It has already been noted in the text that this material for insulation is practically non-flammable, but when exposed to high temperatures starts to smolder. This process is not at all difficult to stop, because for this you only need to cool the material. But in places of strong heating of polyurethane foam, it is better to replace the insulation material with another one.

Differences in the insulation of a frame house according to materials

Basically, insulation is done when installing the frame. Let's look at how to make a frame for wall insulation in different versions.

Warming of wooden frame houses

The main feature of such houses is that the corners between the logs form cracks that allow wind and frost to enter the house. It is important, upon the arrival of winter, to correctly and qualitatively check the walls on your own from the inside to identify blowing.

Attention: When making a frame for insulation, it is necessary to take into account the air gap. After all, ventilation is required here. Otherwise, the material of the walls will quickly become unusable.

First you need to find all the places that the wind blows. You also need to find areas of the house that get wet. All found areas must be examined for the presence of crevices and cracks.
Further, all crevices and cracks found must be properly caulked or filled with foam. If necessary, you can clean the inside of the house from the finish.
It is much more difficult to insulate the ceiling, because it is not always possible to find all the places where heat loss occurs. To eliminate such problems, a variety of sawdust, mineral or ecowool is usually used. The use of loose insulation is simple and for this you only need to crush them yourself.

Attention: It is important to note that the insulation layer must be no more than 15 cm! Most experts in this field do not recommend covering insulated surfaces with roofing material and other similar products.

Such insulation materials are best placed from below. When insulating walls, laps should be made in the corners, along the edges, creating the best insulation. When insulating the walls, the laps are caulked on each side.

Features of insulation of metal frames

The instructions for insulating the wall of a metal frame house are quite simple. Indeed, in this option, you yourself choose the insulation that is placed inside the wall, and here it is important to take everything into account at the initial stage of installation.

First of all, we look at what the heating system will be, about which we calculate the thickness of the insulation;
We also pay attention to the foundation of the structure. After all, it should be more than the material of the entire finish;
We also take into account the ventilation gap, because condensate should not accumulate and the channel itself cannot be less than two cm.

Feature insulation of frame-panel houses

There are a number of types of frame panel houses:

What do we pay attention to when insulating?

Consider the features of insulation:

For proper insulation, it is necessary that the thickness of the walls of the structure be accurately calculated, in compliance with all orders and parameters. When insulating such a house, it is necessary to lay insulating materials directly into the wall;
To start the insulation of such a building as a frame-panel house, you need to carefully process each joint with foam or mastic. To improve the insulation of the walls, as well as to make the house durable and reliable during cold periods, the installation of airtight membranes will help;
Before starting the insulation of a frame-panel house, it is necessary to install horizontal profiles, which are fixed with dowels. Further, the walls on each side are sheathed with clapboard. At the same time, it should be noted that the lining must be dry inside, and wet - directly from the outside. Insulation should be laid inside each side;
In such houses, insulation is necessary for both the walls and the floor. Often, penoizol is used to insulate floors;
After all the work on the insulation of such a house, each wall should be sheathed with siding or a panel for the facade. The easiest method of insulation is considered to be filling all the gaps between the shields with insulation material. On top of all this, it is necessary to apply mastic, which will protect the insulation from moisture and ultraviolet radiation.

The technology for insulating metal frame walls is somewhat different; here it is quite possible to fasten with simple glue. And the rest of the instructions for choosing the material and installation rules are the same as in other buildings. If you think about everything and do it using only high-quality materials, then the energy saving of the premises will be on top.

The question of how to insulate a frame house, in those countries where this technology came from, is usually not worth it - it is believed that it is sufficiently insulated at the construction level. Our winters are very severe - in the central part of the country the frosts are much stronger than at the same latitude in Europe or North America, so even frame houses have to be insulated, the design of which initially provides for a layer of insulation.

Another layer of insulation for our climate will not be “superfluous” Source fasad-exp.ru

The choice of frame house insulation

Before insulating a frame house from the outside, you need to find out what heat-insulating materials were used inside the walls. And already focusing on their properties, choose a warming scheme. Such a dependence is determined at the level of standards, which expressly states that the materials and external insulation scheme should not create conditions for the wall itself to get wet. What does this mean?

It is estimated that during the day, during the life of one person, up to 4 liters of water evaporates in the room: cooking, washing, hygiene, wet cleaning, pets and houseplants. The main part should be weathered due to ventilation, but the other part of the moisture will penetrate into the building envelope.

The standard wall scheme is a frame sheathed with thin-sheet materials on both sides, between which it is located to insulate. And so that it does not get wet, it is protected from the inside with a vapor-tight membrane, from the outside - with a windproof and waterproofing film capable of "passing" water vapor.

Standard scheme of the facade of a frame house Source stroyfora.ru

If you use thermal insulation outside with a vapor permeability lower than that of the main insulation, then the process of diffusion (removal) of water vapor to the street will be disrupted.

Three types of materials are used in the construction of the wall of a frame house:

expanded polystyrene;
polyurethane foam (mainly in SIP panels);
mineral wool.

Polymer insulation has approximately the same vapor permeability, and it is low.

Note. The exception is PVC foam, but this is an expensive insulation that is used to insulate the hulls of yachts and other small elite class ships.

If the frame house is insulated mineral wool, the scheme must take into account the fact that this is a "breathing" material, but hygroscopic. The latter property is compensated by the fact that the fibrous structure (unlike the cellular one) releases moisture just as easily as it absorbs it. Subject to its free weathering.

If expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam is laid inside the wall, then the frame house can be insulated from the outside with any material.
If there is mineral wool inside, then only it can stand outside. Alternatively, ecowool or open-cell spray foam, which have approximately the same vapor permeability.

It is desirable to insulate the frame house outside and inside Source k-dom74.ru

Properties, advantages and disadvantages of heaters

Each type of insulation has a certain "set" of properties that affect the choice. Permeability has been discussed above. It is worth focusing on other qualities and differences.

Density

What density of insulation for the walls of a frame house, in addition to direct thermal insulation, also affects the method of attachment. When using insulation with fastening sheets or mats inside the frame (battens), there are no strict requirements for strength.

stone wool. If we are talking about stone wool, then it should not be too loose - so that it does not slip or wrinkle in a vertical structure. In ventilated facades, its density can start from 50 kg/m³.

When choosing the “wet” facade technology with a thin layer light plaster, mineral wool must have a density of at least 85 kg / m³. For heavy plaster - from 125 kg/m³.

Note. The division of plaster is rather conditional. Light are considered up to 1500 kg / m³, heavy - over.

If we take into account that the density of cement is 1100-1300 kg/m³, and that of acrylic polymers is about 1200 kg/m³, then the main factor influencing the "gravity" is fillers. For decorative facade plaster, coarse quartz sand, screenings and stone chips are usually used, which provide higher mechanical strength, but increase the specific gravity. Therefore, most of its species are heavy.

With the choice of the density of polystyrene foam is a little easier. For external insulation, it is used either according to the “wet” facade scheme, or as part of thermal panels. And here we are usually talking about PSB-S-25 or PSB-S-35. The second option is preferable - stronger, with almost the same thermal conductivity.

Video description

We will dwell in more detail on the insulation of the house with foam plastic. Find out how safe polystyrene foam is in our video:

Extruded polystyrene foam, used for facade insulation, has a density of 35 kg / m³. But due to the cellular structure with a monolithic "skeleton" (rather than glued together from individual microcapsules), its strength is much higher than that of conventional PSP-S-35 foam.

Extruded polystyrene foam is not susceptible to water Source remontik.org

PPU (polyurethane foam). There are two types of spray foam: open-cell and closed-cell.

Open cell PPU refers to light insulation (9-11 kg / m³). By properties, it is similar to mineral wool: high vapor permeability and almost the same coefficient of thermal conductivity. It can only be used when spraying between frame or batten elements, followed by paneling. But it is more expensive than mineral wool.

Closed cell spray foam for facade insulation has a density of 28-32 kg / m³. It is already able to withstand a layer of finishing plaster and has the lowest thermal conductivity among all types of insulation.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies, which offer the service of warming houses. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Thermal conductivity

The lower the thermal conductivity, the better the thermal insulation properties of the material. For calculations, coefficients fixed at the level of standards are used. Although manufacturers often indicate the characteristics that they obtained during laboratory tests, they always differ for the better. However, when calculating according to standard indicators, you can be sure that it will not get worse.

Comparison of thermal conductivity of different materials Source realsroier.ru

Both two-component and one-component polyurethane foam are considered the best thermal insulation materials. According to some sources, their thermal conductivity is not higher, and sometimes lower than that of dry air - 0.02–0.023 W/m*deg. Expanded polystyrene heaters have the same coefficient in the range of 0.031–0.38, and mineral wool - 0.048–0.07.

Other characteristics influencing the choice

Water absorption indicates the material's tendency to get wet. The best performance here is for extruded polystyrene foam and closed-cell sprayed polyurethane foam - about 2%.

Expanded polystyrene is next on the list - up to 4%.

Mineral wool (including stone wool) - up to 70%. Ecowool when wet can increase its weight several times. But after drying, they restore their thermal insulation properties.

Video description

Which thermal insulation is better: based on stone wool or fiberglass, discussed in the video:

If we talk about the cost of insulation, then the most expensive technologies are spraying with ecowool and polyurethane foam. "In the middle" - hinged facades with stone wool. Then - insulation with EPPS. And the most accessible type - " wet facade» with polystyrene foam.

It would seem that the insulation of a frame house with foam plastic outside and inside the walls should be the most popular technology - low cost and water absorption with high thermal insulation properties.

For brick and monolithic houses, this is indeed the most common material. And the scheme for insulating the walls of a frame house, like a wooden one, should first of all take into account the fire safety of materials and their environmental properties.

Styrofoam insulation is incredibly popular Source lineyka.net

When the polymer insulation is “surrounded” on all sides by non-combustible materials (brick, concrete, building blocks, plaster), and he himself belongs to low-combustible and self-extinguishing, then such insulation is safe for residents. But if the supporting structure of the house is made of wood, the foam is dangerous - in case of fire, it begins to melt and release life-threatening suffocating gases.

Therefore, for internal insulation For frame walls, non-combustible mineral wool is more often chosen, and as a result of the requirements for the vapor permeability of materials, it is also used outside.

Insulation of a frame house from the outside with mineral wool

Of the three types of mineral wool, stone (basalt) wool is used to insulate residential buildings. When working with glass, quite a lot of microscopic fragments of fiberglass are formed, which are dangerous for the respiratory organs of workers during the installation of insulation and residents for the first time after settling in the house. Slag wool is not recommended for use because of its low environmental qualities.

Scheme of wall insulation of a frame house with an additional outer layer Source stroyfora.ru

With external insulation with mineral wool, the technology of a ventilated facade is somewhat different from the usual scheme. For a house made of bricks, building blocks, logs or timber, the crate is attached to the wall. A frame house does not have a wall as such in the usual sense. What is the point of sewing up the frame outside the OSB with a slab, and for the next layer of insulation, attach the crate on top if it can be immediately mounted on the supporting racks.

This is also justified by the fact that the vapor permeability of a “fresh” OSB board is lower than that of stone wool. Therefore, ideally, the “pie” of the correct insulation of a frame house with mineral wool looks like this:

interior decoration (with crate for panels);
vapor-tight membrane;
frame with insulation;
crate for the outer layer of mineral wool;
windproof vapor permeable membrane:
counter-lattice to create a ventilated gap;
facade cladding and finishing.

Outside insulation with polymeric materials

With the technology of building frame houses from SIP panels, at the stage of factory production, foam plastic is laid as an internal insulation - expanded polystyrene or rigid polyurethane foam.

It looks like a prefabricated sandwich panel Source superdom.ua

In addition, the usual technology of assembling a "sandwich" on site allows the use of polymer insulation in the form of plates or sprayed liquid polyurethane.

Application of polyurethane foam as an internal insulation of a frame house Source pinterest.es

In both cases, the wall has a "finished" structure with double-sided sheathing with thin-sheet materials. And it is possible to insulate the frame house with foam plastic from the outside using the “wet facade” technology.

A horizontal level is beaten off along the base, along which the starting bar is attached.
With the help of glue, the first row of foam boards is fixed.
The second row is fixed with an offset of at least 20 cm relative to the first.

So it is impossible to mount EPS. Intersecting horizontal and vertical seams are the cause of cracks in facade plaster. Source es.decorexpro.com

The corners of the openings should not be at the seams and at the intersections of the seams.
Each sheet is additionally fixed with plastic dish-shaped dowels, 5 pieces per sheet.

Plastic dowel does not form a "cold bridge" Source kronshtein.by

A layer of adhesive solution 3 mm thick is applied to the foam, a reinforcing mesh is attached to it and covered with another layer of glue.
Carry out finishing with plaster.

Another way to use foam for external insulation of a frame house is thermal panels with clinker tiles.

Thermal panels - insulation plus brick finish Source pro-uteplenie.ru

Sprayed thermal insulation

To some extent, this technology resembles the application of plaster on lighthouses - vertical slats are stuffed on the walls, between which polyurethane foam or ecowool is sprayed.

Frame house, insulated on the outside with polyurethane foam, ready for facade finishing Source mirstrojka.ru

After the PPU "hardens", its excess is cut off with a special manual electric cutter or electric saw. From above, you can either install facade panels, or apply a layer of decorative plaster.

Video description

You can get acquainted with the technique of cutting excess PPU with an electric saw in the video material:

When insulating the frame walls with ecowool, it is sewn up with panels.

Conclusion

Technically, it is not difficult to perform the insulation of a frame house. If you do not consider the option of insulation with sprayed thermal insulation, then this does not require any special equipment. But in each case, it is necessary to carefully calculate the density of the insulation for the walls of a frame house, plus, there are always some technological “nuances” that you need to know - otherwise the result will not give the expected effect. Therefore, it is better to have professionals do the home insulation.