The better to insulate the walls of a frame house. The better to insulate a frame house - the pros and cons of heaters

They are assembled in a fairly short time, using minimal labor resources. However, with all its advantages, it still has one small drawback. If you do not make high-quality insulation of walls and roofs, it will be possible to use it only in the summer, since it will not be suitable for year-round operation in our climate.

Insulation of a frame house - types of materials

The modern market offers huge selection building materials for insulation frame houses. Based on the foregoing, it is very important that the insulation retains its functionality for more than a dozen years, for this it is necessary to use only high-quality material.

Currently, thermal insulation materials are conventionally divided into two categories - organic and synthetic.

1. The former include natural materials of natural origin (sawdust and shavings, compressed straw, etc.).
2. The second category includes types of insulation obtained by a high-tech production method, using various chemical components and compositions for this, namely: mineral wool, foam plastic, basaltin, and others.

The excellent thermal insulation properties of synthetic materials make them the undisputed winners in this group. They boast features such as:

• good moisture resistance;
• low thermal conductivity and flammability level;
• no shrinkage and long service life;
• ease of use;
• safety for a person.

Home insulation is the most popular and well-established method. The material has an excellent sound absorption rate, retains heat well, and also has high class environmental friendliness.

Wall insulation inside and out

There is no particular difference from where to start work on the insulation of a frame house, from the inside or outside. It's more convenient for someone here. For example, it is a little easier to install insulation from the street, but there is a risk that it may start to rain and then the work will have to be curtailed for a while.

Standard mineral wool insulation has a width of 600 mm. Therefore, when building a frame, this moment must be taken into account. In order for the material to fit snugly against the vertical posts, the ideal step size between them is 580-590 mm. Such a distance will not allow the insulation to slide down over time, as it will be tightly clamped.

According to the established norms, the thickness of insulation for a structure in the central region of Russia is 150 mm. Therefore, it would be advisable to use plates with a thickness of 100 and 50 mm.

Thus, instead of three plates, two will be enough in the design, thereby significantly reducing labor costs. Also material in 100 mm. less prone to deflection and therefore more securely attached to the structure.

Fastening vapor barrier and OSB boards

• In order to prevent moisture from entering the insulation, it must be well protected from it. To do this from the inside wooden walls the frame must be covered with a vapor barrier film. Using a conventional stapler, roll out the roll in horizontal stripes and fasten it with an overlap along 5 cm. to vertical posts. Make sure that the film is firmly attached to the surface everywhere;
• Next, we need to close the vapor barrier film with OSB boards, which will be the base under interior decoration. Using ordinary wood screws and a screwdriver, we fasten the panels one by one, if necessary, cutting them with an electric jigsaw.

Insulation installation

Consider, as an example, the insulation of the frame with slabs based on mineral (stone) wool. The material is quite elastic, so for its fixation it is not required additional way fasteners, simply insert it between the racks. The plates must be tightly held there due to the difference in size.

Installation of insulation is carried out in two layers, using a checkerboard pattern. The second should overlap the butt joints of the first, exactly in the middle. This method avoids the appearance of so-called "cold bridges", which contribute to the appearance of condensate and dampness on the inner surface of the finish, as a result of which mold and fungus may appear.

After all the plates are installed, they will need to be protected from rain and strong winds. To do this, by analogy with the internal walls, the external ones are sheathed in the same way.

The material used is a hydro-windproof membrane, it will reliably protect the walls from drafts and raindrops getting inside. To securely connect the membrane, fix it to the posts with a counter-batten.

Wall cladding outside

Depending on the material you choose for finishing, you need to properly prepare the base for it. For ordinary siding or a block house, moisture-resistant OSB boards are attached to the counter-crate, to which guide bars are nailed.

It is very popular among the population, which accurately imitates the structure of real wood.

Sectional diagram of insulation

In case the walls are sheathed with some other finishing material(facade tiles, artificial or natural stone, etc.), it is unnecessary to nail guide bars to the OSB boards, the walls for finishing are left in this form.

Roof insulation

• Not many people know that roof insulation plays a very important role in creating a favorable microclimate in the house. High-quality insulation of this element reduces the heat loss of the house by 25-30 % Therefore, it is very important to approach this issue with all responsibility.

One of the most common ways to insulate the roof is to lay the insulation between, and in order for the insulation to last for a long time, the roofing pie must have a ventilation gap.

The essence of the frame house process mineral wool quite simple and looks like this:

1. From the outside of the roof, a diffusion membrane is nailed to the upper base of the rafters, which is fixed with a counter-batten;
2. Further from the inside in two layers (each 100 mm.), using the same checkerboard pattern, insulation boards are laid. Pay special attention to the places of gables and the ridge part of the roof;
3. The insulation is necessarily closed with a vapor barrier film, which is fastened with horizontal stripes from the bottom up with an overlap 5 cm.;
4. The final stage is the filing of the ceiling with a finishing finishing material (lining, plywood, block house, drywall, etc.)

Floor insulation

Another place where there is a leak 15-20% so precious in our time of warmth. Of course, you can fork out and install a system in the house, especially since in our time there is plenty for this.

However, why not try to warm it up first. After all, the floor is the place where a lot of interesting things happen.

You can’t even count how many kilometers your baby crawls along it, and then it will take its first steps in life on it. The time spent on yoga and reading interesting books, in addition to benefits, will also bring pleasure.

The sequence of floor insulation in a frame house:

• A layer of waterproofing film is rolled onto the subfloor. All joints are glued with reinforcing tape;
• Between the lag for the floor, a heater is laid (thickness not less than 200 mm.). To eliminate the formation of a gap, the width of the insulation must exceed the distance between the lags by 1-2 cm;

• Overlap insulation on top 5-10 cm. covered with a vapor barrier;
• Further, depending on floor covering, the floor is covered with plywood sheets, or a finishing board is placed.

Conclusion

Today, there are many different modern materials that are suitable for insulating houses built using frame technology. However, numerous positive reviews from the owners show that there is no point in overpaying for expensive materials in this case. With the protection of the house from the cold, mineral wool, which is quite affordable, does an excellent job.

Therefore, we can safely conclude that mineral wool is reliable, inexpensive and quite effective material for warming a frame house. Due to its environmental friendliness and fire safety, you can use insulation both from the inside and outside of the house, and nothing else is needed.

Frame houses are being built very, very actively. But even such reliable and high-quality structures in the Russian climate cannot do without insulation. And this means that the choice correct option a quiet life in the house depends on it and on the literacy of work.

Why is it necessary?

Panel buildings are very popular among summer residents: they are attracted by the opportunity, having started work in late autumn, to have a full-fledged house by the beginning of the season. At the same time, such structures:

• environmentally friendly;
• are inexpensive;
• serve for many decades.

But all these advantages are realized only if the insulation of the frame house is done properly.

Otherwise, it will be quite difficult to call it comfortable. It is worth immediately distinguishing between two types of buildings.

• Buildings for permanent use by default should have solid thermal protection.
• If it is planned to be there only from the end of spring to the end of autumn, thermal insulation should be minimal - strictly to maintain the stability of the structure itself.

The "framework", intended for the summer period, has a wall thickness of no more than 70 mm. In the cold season, the required figure is at least twice as high. If you limit yourself to a thinner layer of material, the heat leakage will be disproportionately large, and you will either freeze or lose a lot of money on heating.

Important: for winter residence you will have to insulate not the entire volume of the frame, but only its individual parts, first of all:

• slopes;
• cellars;
• attic planes;
• plinth structures.

It will not work to get by with only a warm floor, even if its power is excessive. Through basements, external walls and other parts of the structure of the panel house, heat will flow away all the same cheerfully. Given the variety of conditions where heaters will be placed, it is impossible to give a universal answer about the best option. Basement walls are equipped with some types of thermal protection, bearing walls- by others, the overlap of the cold attic - by third. But in any case, the choice of suitable insulation formats always comes first.

Types of thermal insulation

Cross (additional) insulation of frame structures is carried out, as its name implies, by adding an auxiliary volume of insulation to one layer. Such a solution allows you to reliably close the existing cold bridges. Most builders prefer outdoor insulation– because it does not take away the precious inner space, which is always lacking in dachas and rural dwellings. In addition to thermal protection of the facade plane, special attention should be paid to preventing heat from escaping through the corners.

They are the most problematic points in any home; now you can find out which solutions to all these problems should be preferred.

What should be insulated?

Insulation for a frame house cannot be bulk; standard technology involves the use of only tiles or rolls. The difference is not only that "one is put down, the other is untwisted." Technologists are aware of the differences in nominal thickness. Usually, increasing the layer thickness increases the energy efficiency of the material.

But it is worth remembering that even a material that is impeccable in itself can be applied incorrectly, and this immediately devalues ​​all the advantages. Therefore, it is better to either turn to professionals, or study the slightest subtleties and nuances of each coating.

The vast majority of amateur builders and official firms use the "brilliant four":

• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• mineral plates;
• isolon.

There are many other options, the main division of which is carried out by chemical nature (organic or inorganic substances in the base) or by structure - solid blocks and bulk substances. You can even choose expanded clay, metallurgical slag and other bulk reagents. But the problem with this solution is the gradual shrinkage of the thermal protection layer. You will have to thoroughly ram the layer to be laid, and not just fill the entire volume of the wall, floor, and so on with the selected composition. Plate materials they do not cause such problems - but they also have their own "pitfalls".

So, use mineral wool in its pure form for external insulation walls is pointless: it will not hold well, and it will retain its thermal qualities only until the first rain or snow. An indispensable condition for success is attachment to a special structure made of bars stuffed vertically. Each beam is placed only where the border between the mineral wool slabs passes. You should also take care of external protection against getting wet.

It is important to wear respiratory protective equipment, wear special goggles and do not remove gloves when working.

Styrofoam is a substance of organic nature. Its undoubted advantages are:

• low specific gravity;
• protection of walls from strong winds;
• exclusion of decay.

But these advantages also have a downside: high fire risks. Therefore, it is impossible to finish the walls with foam plastic that has not undergone special processing.

Mineral wool is absolutely non-flammable. A similar advantage can be obtained when using basalt wool, but it has another significant plus - ease of processing and perfect safety for builders.

The use of penoizol is called by many the ideal solution.

But he also has weak spots- after a few years, areas are formed where the material will not fit snugly. Therefore, the heat loss will increase sharply. The liquid version of the coating has a more powerful adhesion and lasts 50–60 years (a guarantee is given for such a period). The disadvantage is also, however, obvious - without special equipment, success will not work. But penoizol is in any case acceptable for keeping heat in the floor, roof and walls.

Internal wall insulation frame buildings roll materials is not possible. More precisely, it will be possible to attach them to the walls, but then the walls themselves will shrink, and the thermal insulation will inevitably be damaged. Regardless of the option chosen, and whether the work is done inside or outside the house, it must be carried out very carefully. It is useful to keep this in mind whenever the thought arises of saving money by working on your own. If among all the materials the choice fell on penoizol, its installation is preceded by the installation of profiles.

Expanded clay frame structures are extremely rarely insulated, and such a choice does not justify even its low cost. Yes, the material is very dense and does not absorb water well. But if he has already absorbed the liquid, its return will be very slow. Expanded clay is very heavy, and even with a minimum dry density, it presses on the walls, the foundation is very strong. This circumstance will have to be taken into account when decorating the exterior, choosing the most durable solutions for it.

But the main thing is not even this, but the fact that expanded clay is three times worse in terms of thermal qualities than mineral wool and polystyrene. Be sure to use therefore layers of waterproofing and vapor barrier. Solid competition with this material is also insulation. stone wool. Working with her plates is a pleasure, there is no need for complex tools. Cutting into the desired fragments is done with a knife or a saw with fine teeth.

For your information: stone wool blocks cannot be compressed, rammed and squeezed. This will certainly lead to negative consequences. Ecowool also needs to be used wisely. So, in its pure form, ecological cotton wool is very flammable, but if you mix it with borax and boric acid, the level of fire danger will drop sharply. In addition, such processing will avoid interest from microscopic organisms and certain animal species.

Near the surface, ecowool can contain up to 20% water (by mass) and retain its basic insulating properties.

When the material dries, it fully restores performance. Such advantages as an optimal microclimate, damping of extraneous sounds, the absence of seams and sanitary safety will also be attractive to people. Concerning possible problems, they are:

• you will have to limit yourself to vertical backfilling in order to guarantee thermal protection;
• you will definitely need specialized equipment;
• if the fastening control was poor, the material may settle;
• ecowool is not very appropriate where high humidity may be present.

Insulation of frame houses with sawdust is another traditional, even centuries-old technology. But there is no reason to consider it exclusively primitive, as is often done modern people. Careful consideration of the features of the material allows you to profitably implement it positive features and weaken the negative ones. The undoubted advantage of sawdust is its natural origin, affordable price and good heat retention. It is only necessary to deal with the risk of ignition and with the settlement of rodents in the material.

Antiseptic components, lime, clay, gypsum or cement help to solve such problems.

Important: when choosing an additive for sawdust, you should pay attention to how hygroscopic it is.

In many places, high humidity can lead to very unpleasant consequences. Large fraction sawdust is usually taken on the draft insulating layer, and heat retention is mainly provided by a finer substance. When buying or self-harvesting, you should pay attention to the dryness of the material, the quality of thermal protection depends on it.

Adherents of modern materials and the latest technologies can insulate frame houses with extruded polystyrene foam. It is quite widely used when working on floors, including:

• over unheated basements and technical undergrounds;
• under attic ceilings;
• to enhance the acoustic protection of structures separating the floors of the house.

Usually, on the floors of frame houses, expanded polystyrene is placed in the intervals of the lags; at the request of the owners or craftsmen, it can be mounted under a reinforced cement and sand screed. The disadvantage of the material (easily eliminated, however, with a careful approach) is the need to strictly observe the specified gaps between the plates. Expanding when heated, polystyrene foam can be damaged - gaps are needed to prevent such a development of events. It is important to remember the flammability of this synthetic substance, it should be used with caution.

It is unacceptable to glue it on mixtures containing any flammable or simply caustic component.

In addition to insulation, it is worth remembering that reliable, well-thought-out ventilation should be provided in a frame house.

The input of fresh air is always organized from the utility rooms, and the overflow is carried out under the doors separating the rooms. If you do not take care of the presence of a gap under them, then not only freshness, but even distribution of heat in the home will not be achieved. When it is not possible to form such a gap, they come to the rescue:

• special channels for overflow;
• lattice through the wall;
• separate channels for the passage of air into a particular room.

Specifications

The more monolithic the insulation layer, the more stable it usually holds heat. That's why the density of the structure should be given paramount attention, it is much more important than a big name or a whole series of certificates. The only particularly lightweight material that deserves attention is expanded polystyrene (including its modification such as polystyrene). Even mineral wool is already in the light category, although its specific gravity can vary widely. It is this circumstance that allows you to choose the optimal solution for a variety of conditions and situations.

If you need the strongest blocking of cold (in living rooms and on the floor), the tightest versions are required. For a non-residential attic, the requirements bar is lower. With a density of 75 kg per 1 cu. m. cotton insulation is suitable only on surfaces that carry a relatively low load, as well as for thermal protection of pipes.

The P-125 brand is already more worthy, it can be used in different procedures:

• sheathing of ceilings and floors;
• thermal insulation of walls;
• thermal protection of partitions;
• suppression of external noise.

Cotton wool category ПЖ-175 has increased rigidity and is not used in frame houses, to a greater extent it is used in stone and concrete buildings. If you plan to cover the walls with siding, you can use basalt wool with a density of 40 to 90 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. Moreover, the most dense material is recommended to be used in the upper parts of the walls. Under the plaster, experts advise taking cotton wool with a specific gravity of 140–160 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. Less high requirements for heaters used in the interior of the frame house.

When the dwelling is covered pitched roof, the optimal parameters are 30–45 kg per 1 cu. m, and if it is planned to insulate the attic, the lower bar is already 35 kg.

Five times higher than the minimum figure for mineral wool under a flat roof, and for polystyrene foam it is much more gentle, only 40 kg per 1 cubic meter. m maximum. In the floors, loose insulation is allowed to be used only when laying in the intervals of the lags. Otherwise, the thermal protection will be a mechanically loaded element, which will adversely affect its characteristics.

Residents of frame houses naturally strive to ensure that their habitats are not only warm, but also environmentally friendly; errors in the selection of insulation can interfere with the achievement of this goal. Until recently, it was possible to meet an environmentally friendly method of thermal protection only in elite areas, but now such schemes have become much more accessible. In the first place, quite predictably, are the fibers of natural raw materials:

• woody;
• linen;
• hemp and some others.

The advantage of such substances is the zero degree of allergic and toxicological risk. The softness of the structure makes it difficult for individual components to penetrate into the outer space. In an environmentally friendly house, there is absolutely no place for mineral and glass wool. Shards of glass and stone fibers, insignificant in size, cannot be seen without a magnifying glass. But they can cause quite large-scale harm to health.

Important: no matter how great the desire for cleanliness and health protection is, this is not a reason to refuse antiseptic treatment of a number of materials - where it is really needed.

Flame retardants are most often made from borax, a natural mineral that is completely safe. The vast majority of thermal protection components, however, do not pose a danger only under strictly specified conditions. One of them is always the preservation of the integrity of the insulating "pie", from which one or another substance cannot escape normally. Linen insulation is relatively cheap and at the same time quite normal, based on data obtained from medical studies in different countries.

Peat blocks are now becoming increasingly in demand in frame construction. 1 cu. m of such material costs about 3 thousand rubles, and it will last from 75 years, all this time being a sharply unfavorable place for microbes. What is important in our troubled era, such a heater is able to reduce the entry of penetrating radiation into the house by 80%. The only problem is that there is still little operating experience, and it is not clear how peat blocks will behave in different conditions many years later.

Cork structures are easily placed under the wallpaper, on internal walls oh and under the floor; but due to the very high price, it is unlikely that many people will be able to appreciate their quality in the foreseeable future.

Manufacturers overview

Reviews allow you to appreciate not only different kinds insulation materials, but also the professionalism and conscientiousness of individual firms.

Attention: you need to take into account that we will talk only about the really best of the best companies that have shown all their capabilities over the years of competition.

Firm "Rockwall" supplies the market with fireproof thermal insulation made of stone wool. At the same time, it focuses on ensuring the highest environmental and sanitary performance of its products. You can use such mineral wool as part of thermal protection:

• pipes;
• facade walls;
• room partitions;
• roof structures;
• areas under heavy load.

100 mm of such a slab is enough to replace almost 2 m of brickwork.

french corporation "Isover" sells glass wool to its customers in roll, slab or mat configuration. Of course, environmental safety is somewhat less, but the cost of products is noticeably lower and optimal fire-fighting properties are guaranteed. The level of thermal conductivity also meets the necessary requirements. The company's line includes pressed materials that are easy to put even without the use of fasteners.

Glass wool is also supplied under the brand name URSA, which uses a significantly smaller amount of phenol in production, and in some cases got rid of it altogether. The product range includes:

• plates of moderate rigidity;
• products adapted for medical and children's organizations;
• hydrophobic structures of increased density;
• products resistant to deforming loads.

Calculations

Regardless of which particular substance is used, it is required to carefully calculate the thickness of the insulation. If you miscalculate with this indicator, you will get either an insufficient effect, or excessively high costs for the purchase of thermal protection and for working with it. When the work is entrusted to a professional team, you still need to control the measurements and calculations made by it. As practice shows, installers left without supervision, making sure that no one checks them, sooner or later they will “mistake” in their favor.

The main role in the calculations is played by indicators such as thermal conductivity and thermal resistance.

Glass wool has a very high resistance to heat escape - but its shortcomings prevent the widespread use of this material. When calculating, it is worth focusing on the climatic properties of a particular area. So, in Moscow and its environs, the recommended layer of most good heaters does not exceed 0.2 m. If you use so many of them in the Far North, the result will be deplorable for residents.

The standard formula of the form δut = (R - 0.16 - δ1 / λ1 - δ2 / λ2 - δi / λi) × λut has the following components (in sequence):

• heat resistance of structures in a particular area;
• total thickness of all layers;
• coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• the ability of the insulation to transmit heat.

Raw materials and tools

When the type of insulation is selected, the calculations are made, it's time to get ready for work properly. Must select necessary tools as carefully as possible, taking into account the smallest nuances.

• With a dry version of insulation, "raw materials" can be considered, along with the selected thermal protection, timber or metal constructions frame being created. It is also useful to choose decorative materials, waterproofing films, membranes, vapor barriers that are consistent with the material.
• The "wet" scheme is implemented using water-based adhesives.

Typical tools for wall and roof insulation include:

• screwdriver;
• guns for applying polyurethane foam;
• hammers;
• jigsaws for precise cutting of wood and metal;
• perforator;

• spatulas;
• hydraulic levels;
• roulettes;
• metal scissors;
• containers for preparing solutions and so on.

The exact set cannot be predicted in advance, because it strongly depends on the chosen technology, on the nuances of the frame house and the amount of work. In any case, it is worth trying to purchase high-quality tools and Consumables. All devices purchased specially or already on hand should be carefully checked before starting work. Otherwise, it will not be possible to guarantee the quality and safety of manipulations during insulation. In almost all cases, craftsmen benefit from a square: it is able to both mark exact right angles and measure the actual angles formed by the sides of the part.

Among all hammers, the locksmith type is the best.

It is suitable for processing any kind of surface. On the one hand, such a tool is even and allows you to strike, and on the other, it is pointed, like a chisel. If you have to dismantle building elements and structures, you need a nail puller. Divide into parts foam and other insulating, decorative elements can be done with a saw with a fine tooth. The teeth should be specially bred and honed in a special way.

For the preparation of building mixtures, only mixers with a spiral working part made of strong steel grades are quite suitable. Using rollers, it is easy to apply primers and various paints, even if the surface is very rough or rough. To apply the adhesive solution for the subsequent introduction of the reinforcing mesh, it is recommended to use Swiss ironing tools with teeth. The optimum tooth size is 8 x 8 or 10 x 10 mm and is determined by the manufacturer of the façade systems.

Self coating

In any case, step-by-step instructions require you to mount a layer that protects against moisture. The only exception is made for those situations where such protection is already on the outside (or inside). The reason is simple - bilateral blocking of water deprives it of an exit. The liquid will accumulate inside the walls and gradually destroy them.

The first step is usually to measure the external surfaces and cut the waterproofing material according to their size.

Next comes the vapor barrier. It will not be possible to get around this point even in the case when hydrophobic or substances that neutrally tolerate contact with water are used for insulation. Indeed, besides them, the “pie” includes other details that are much more sensitive to getting wet. When insulating inside and outside, it will be correct to use a special film or polyethylene foam to contain water vapor. Such materials are attached to the racks of the frames, ensuring the tightest possible pressure on the insulation.

Important: wrapping thermal protection blocks in a film is a violation standard scheme- until all the components of the frame, without exception, are not covered from the water, the work cannot be considered completed.

Only when all this is finished, they begin to work with the filler itself.

At the same time, safety requirements are strictly observed, which are especially relevant when choosing mineral or glass wool.

The final step is the lining of the walls from the inside. Out of competition in terms of the sum of their qualities, there will be drywall and oriented particle boards. GCR is recommended to be installed if the frame is perfectly flat, then the outer surface will be smooth. But OSB, due to its rigidity, will cope with flaws as efficiently as possible. But in any case, this is only a preparation for a real finish.

Master classes from professionals

Master classes organized by professionals allow you to get the most recent and adequate information on all the problems of insulation and related topics. As a result of the consultation, it will become clear what the width of the frame board should be in a particular case, and how to calculate the thickness of a fundamentally new material.

Experienced craftsmen understand safety measures and storage mode, transportation of each insulating coating is better than ordinary amateur builders. Many mistakes are made when attaching structures, drawing up diagrams and determining the sequence of layers in the "pie". But communication with knowledgeable people helps to correct this situation.

When mineral wool is used, care should be taken to prevent condensation from warm rooms from getting on it. But waterproofing and vapor barrier are also fraught with many "pitfalls". The choice of material for sheathing is often dictated by tradition, personal tastes or stereotypes - but meanwhile, thoughtful design is much more pleasant. Professionals will tell you when you can use natural heaters, and when it is better to use artificial ones. It is very important to understand the compatibility of materials with each other: here, again, master classes help.

For information on which insulation keeps heat better, see the next video.

An important point in the process of building a house frame basis is an . High-quality thermal insulation ensures that the room maintains optimal temperature regime. Literate is challenging task. There are many options for protecting the house, while it is possible to insulate the walls both from the outside and from the inside.

How to choose a heater for a frame house?

This is an urgent issue, because a frame-based structure has a high loss rate. Via quality material heat transfer protection can be provided.

Foam insulation

One of the most popular insulating materials is foam. Popularity due to the advantages:

• environmental Safety;
• affordable cost;
• a light weight;
• does not require a special waterproof coating;
• ease of installation;
• no need for additional insulation.

This cheap insulation for a frame house has its drawbacks. It ignites easily, has a low sound insulation index and is very brittle.

Tip: To insulate a building with an area of ​​​​6 m2 with foam plastic, about 3 m2 of material is needed, the thickness of which is 50 mm.

Styrofoam and mineral wool

Mineral wool as a heater

A quality insulator that is in growing demand is dense pressed boards. They have a rectangular shape and are easy to cut, which allows using a saw and a knife to create a piece of insulation of the required size.

Mineral wool is produced by heat treatment and pressing of basalt or blast-furnace slag. The structure in the form of fibers retains air in itself, therefore a protective barrier is formed for the penetration of cold air.

Mineral wool is different:

• light weight;
• good sound insulation;
• fire resistance;
• durability;
• tolerate deformation well;
• excellent thermal insulation.

The material contains substances harmful to human health. Of particular danger are small particles, they can penetrate through the respiratory tract and cause various diseases.

Tip: To prevent the negative impact of cotton wool, the walls of the building must be covered from the inside with special vapor barrier films.

Mineral wool is subject to the negative influence of moisture, under the influence of which it loses its excellent thermal insulation properties and rots. Therefore, when insulating walls, the openings of the frame block should be protected from the outside with special waterproofing materials.

Insulation of the facade of a frame house using Rockwool insulation - step by step

Insulating walls with mineral wool is not a difficult task:

1. It is necessary to make a vapor barrier, since the wood breathes, the insulation must be protected from condensation.
2. Mineral wool is laid between the racks of the frame. It is recommended to mark and cut the material slabs with a margin.
3. Install the insulation between the racks as tightly as possible.
4. With strips of mineral wool, which have an insignificant width, the joints between the thermal insulation and the drains of the frame should be closed.

The same method can be used to insulate the outer surfaces of the building. Only in this case it is necessary to apply a waterproofing film over the mineral wool.

When asked which insulation is better for a frame house, reviews confirm this, experts tend to mineral wool, subject to proper installation.

Insulation of a frame house with TechnoNIKOL stone wool

Glass wool for home insulation

Fiber material is already used in construction long time. Glass wool is produced by melting glass waste, limestone, soda, sand, borax and dolomite. The material is produced in the form of plates, rolls.

When in contact with the material, it is necessary to use protective equipment: gloves, respirators and goggles, since sharp and thin glass wool fibers are dangerous to humans.

Glass wool has its own advantages:

• excellent heat resistance;
• fire resistance;
• low hygroscopicity;
• resistance to chemical degradation.

Wall insulation for a frame house has excellent thermal insulation properties and does not emit harmful toxic substances in the event of a fire. The material is inexpensive, so it is popular.

When insulating the room, it is recommended to cover the glass wool with a windproof film. This operation allows the heat to stay inside the building for a long period of time.

Video - frame house insulation technology (wall thickness, vapor barrier layer) - step by step instructions

Ecowool insulation

High-quality eco-friendly insulation for a frame house is modern material which is made from cellulose.

It has a number of features:

• to carry out work, you need a special device that, during the process of insulation, mixes the insulation with water, and then drives the material into the wall cavity - this method is called wet;
• dry method involves the process of falling asleep into the frame space of the material and its subsequent compaction;
• the heater is not afraid high humidity, so there is no need to lay a special film.

It's not the best the best insulation for a frame house, since ecowool is very expensive and it is recommended to use the services of specialists to work with it.

The thickness of the insulation must be calculated taking into account the requirements for thermal insulation. This affects the amount of material that needs to be purchased. It is recommended to invite a professional who will take the necessary measurements and be able to calculate the exact amount of mineral wool needed for a particular frame house.

Video - warming a frame house with ecowool instruction

About Rockwool insulation for the walls of a frame house

Polyurethane foam or penoizol - high-quality material

Reliable and excellent insulation consists of two components that are mixed together. The resulting mixture fills the cells of the structure of the frame type. The result is a monolithic surface. Working with the material can be compared with the manipulations carried out with mounting foam.

PPU or polyurethane foam has excellent thermal insulation properties, but requires certain skills, experience and knowledge. Therefore, professionals work with the material. The cost of polyurethane foam is relatively high, so if the question is which insulation is better to insulate a frame house and save money at the same time, then you should abandon polyurethane foam.

Thermal conductivity of insulation and building materials

Clay - a proven way

To warm the room, you can use ordinary clay. This is the most environmentally friendly method. For work, special clay is used, which has a specific coefficient of fat content. Low-fat material does not have the necessary adhesion, so the plaster from it after a certain period of time will crumble and crack.

After creating a thick mixture of clay, you can test it for suitability by rolling a ball and then clamping it between two boards:

• if the ball is cracked by about 50%, then sand should be added;
• if the cracks are about 30%, then the plaster is ideal for further use;
• if the ball crumbled, then the material is not at all suitable for high-quality work.

Clay mortar is the answer to the question of which insulation is best for a frame house, the reviews of people who have used this method confirm this if the naturalness of materials is important for the owner of the house.

Worth knowing: There is no specific method for making clay mortar. The composition of the components: lime, cement, water, sawdust, sand, clay, and their ratio may be different.

The technique of working with the material is similar to the manipulation of ordinary plaster:

1. the wall is covered with a primer;
2. beacons are placed;
3. a rough layer of plaster is applied, the thickness of which should not exceed five centimeters;
4. after the previous layer has dried, a finishing layer is applied, and finishing work is carried out.

How to insulate a house with clay? Clay insulated wall

Fiberboard - quality and reliability

Fiberboard is obtained by drying and pressing wood chips, which are mixed with a binder: magnesium salt or Portland cement. For the best preservation of thermal insulation characteristics, it is recommended to use additional waterproofing. The material is used for insulation of internal walls and ceilings.

The popularity of fiberboard is determined by its excellent performance characteristics:

• it is fireproof, due to the presence of special impregnation with binders;
• has an excellent indicator of moisture resistance, is able to withstand constant and regular exposure to high humidity;
• the ability to withstand various kinds of deformations. Pressed wood chips act as a damper, and cement or other binder provides them with stability;
• it is not biologically active, therefore it does not undergo an undesirable process of decay, since there is no spread of microorganisms and insects inside the material;
• has a high rate of sound insulation;
• is environmentally friendly;
• able to withstand severe cold and frost, therefore it is actively used in various climatic zones;
• It is durable - the service life is not less than 50 years.

Sawdust - the old method

How to choose a heater for a frame house, if there are no specialized materials available, and the goal is to save a lot? The answer is quite simple - it's sawdust. Thermal insulation is not made by the sawdust itself, but by a mixture with other building materials: cement, antiseptic or lime.

An approximate technology for the preparation of insulation is as follows:

When pouring water, it is recommended to use a watering can to evenly moisten the resulting mixture.

In most cases, sawdust fills the space between the beams or beams in the floor. Sometimes they are used to insulate walls. In this case, the composition is covered in small layers and carefully compacted.

This method of thermal insulation has disadvantages:

• laboriousness during work;
• high degree of fire hazard;
• low efficiency indicator;
• settling of the material after time inside the walls.

The method can be more effective for a frame house if expanded clay is used.

There is a large selection of materials with which you can insulate a frame house. They differ from each other in the field of application: inside and out, the method of work, cost, efficiency and environmental friendliness.

What insulation to use in a frame house?

The decision remains with the owner of the frame housing. The most environmentally friendly and cheapest way is clay plaster. Modern methods of work allow us to perform the work as efficiently and aesthetically as possible.

Video Insulation of a frame house

Frame house insulation- a responsible process, on which it then depends on how much you will pay for heating and whether it will blow through in your house, whether you can calmly walk barefoot even in winter and let your children play on the floor for hours, or you will have to buy warm home clothes, socks and slippers.

I will define important concepts necessary for understanding the text:
Close up of the outline of a house- this is the result of that stage of construction, when the house is covered with a roof, doors and windows are installed in it, i.e. we are closed from precipitation from the street.
Warming "vraspor"- this is insulation, in which the pieces of insulation are wider than the cavity into which we insert it, which leads to the fact that the insulation holds itself due to natural expansion (after all, we compress it so that it fits into the desired cavity).

Let's look at insulation various elements frame.

Floor insulation in a frame house can be carried out by the most different ways and various heaters. If your house is not built on UWB, then this moment is definitely relevant for you. I drew such a diagram in order to immediately highlight all types of floor insulation in the frame:

The risk of insulating the floor of a frame house before circuit closure is that moisture will most likely get into the insulation during construction and more than once (rains in Russia are not uncommon, and the floor made of plywood or OSB still lets moisture through), which means that the insulation may lose all its insulation properties ( unless, of course, it's styrofoam).

Insulation of the floor of a frame house after circuit closure devoid of this risk, but it requires additional gestures: either removing the floor already under the roof or climbing under the house and insulating it from there, or building walls without a floor at all and installing the walls of the frame house immediately on the logs (not recommended, this is quite dangerous).

As you already understood, the floor of a frame house can also be insulated both from above (being on the floor) and from below (from under the house). Let's review everything possible options and potential problems.

Option 1. Insulation of the frame house floor from above until the contour is closed.


The most traditional option. Immediately after fixing in place, we can insulate the floor of a frame house before covering it with plywood.

If our heater glass wool or mineral wool, then we just need to just insert the insulation rolls between the lags. The width of the insulation should be 1-2 cm larger than the space between the lags (if the insulation is 600 mm wide, then the step of the lag is 630 mm, and the space between them is 580 mm). If the insulation does not converge, then we cut the insulation to the desired size.

To simplify this process, you can first hem the boards or plywood from the bottom of the log so that the insulation cannot fall into the underground over time. To do this, cranial bars are either nailed to the lags from below before installation, on which plates for floor insulation will already be attached (picture 1), or they are attached, and under it an inch in increments of 300-400 mm across the lag (picture 2).

Everything is easier and harder at the same time. It’s easier, because it’s not scary for him to get wet, which means that it’s not scary to insulate the floor of a frame house with foam until the contour is closed. Harder because he's tough and does not stand up so easy, it needs to be cut into Exact size clearance between the lags (or generally put it on one lag immediately upon installation and press it with the adjacent lag, then there will be no gaps). True, when the boards dry out (unless, of course, the board was already dry), most likely, gaps will appear between the foam and the lags, it is better to foam this space (you can later from the underground). Under the foam, it is also necessary to hem something from below (boards, plywood or wind protection).

Option 2. Warming the floor of a frame house from below after closing the contour.

If you have a basement or your house is on, and it is at least 40 cm off the ground, then you can safely insulate the floor from below. To do this, you will need to prepare rolls of insulation, crawl under the house and place the insulation there by surprise. Then, in the same way, pull under the heaters (or plates supporting the insulation as in option 1). Remember that even if your piles are only 30 cm above the ground, then adding a grillage to them, you get a distance to the floor lag of 50 cm, and this is already a completely working option for warming from below.

Option 3. Floor insulation in a frame house from above after closing the contour.


Insulating the floor of a frame house in this way is the most comfortable option, in my opinion. First we put the logs, fix them in their places, put ours on top, fixing it TEMPORARILY 2-4 screws to the lags.

After that, we put walls on plywood (but only load-bearing, non-bearing partitions are not installed at all yet), we put floor logs, rafters, etc. on the walls. until we close the entire circuit walls-roof-doors-windows.
Then we unscrew the screws from the plywood in the floor and cut out the plywood in the places where the load-bearing walls lie on it and insulate everything as in the first option (just do not forget to add jumpers under the joints of the newly cut places in the plywood).

Book your home

There is another variation. If, in advance of installing the walls, not whole sheets of plywood are placed under them, but cut pieces of 150 mm wide. In this case, you do not need to make additional jumpers, and you also do not need to cut anything, just unscrew the screws, remove the black floor and insulate it.

Ecowool and floor insulation in a frame house from above after closing the contour.
Everything is the same with ecowool, only it is necessary to attach a windscreen to the bottom of the lag or sew it up with something, because. bulk ecowool and it needs a solid base (it also makes sense to use MDVP instead of wind protection in this case). A big plus of ecowool is that in any case, you won’t need to cut anything with it, take a step lag under the subfloor slabs (and, of course, under the necessary load).
Generally, ecowool, in my opinion - the best insulation for a frame house. If you decide to insulate your house with ecowool, contact me, I work with a real professional blowing walls with ecowool, who travels to different regions.
Personally, for myself, I chose the option with ecowool.

Wall insulation in a frame house

Wall insulation in a frame house goes in a similar way. We put the insulation in between. Remember that the pitch of the racks should also be 20-30 mm larger than the width of the insulation. Typically, the pitch of the racks is 625 mm with a 40 mm board and 635 mm with a 50 mm board. By the way, it seems to me that it is better to cut OSB-3 a couple of times than to constantly cut the insulation.

Video about wall insulation in a frame house from the Rockwool company (manufacturer of the insulation of the same name):

What kind of wall insulation is there?

Types of wall insulation: mineral wool with a density of more than 30 kg / m3, ecowool (wet) and foam. It is these three modern insulation are used in 95% of the walls of frame houses in Russia. It is difficult to say for sure that the best thermal insulation of walls is ecowool or mineral wool or polystyrene, since each insulation has its pros and cons.

Insulation for external walls

Special outer insulation for walls it is used if you want to make a plaster facade on a heater. In such cases, you have 2 options: polystyrene foam or high density mineral wool (about 125 kg/m3).

The cheapest and best wall insulation

It can be said for sure that the cheapest wall insulation is mineral insulation with a minimum density, but it is not recommended to use it, although some take risks and even use glass wool in the walls of a frame house. Over time, basalt with a low density can settle in the walls and cracks will appear.

In my opinion, the best insulation for frame walls is. Therefore, it is with her that we insulate the houses of her clients and those who have not been dissatisfied for 7 years of work have not yet been. Ecowool can even withstand fires.
So contact us, we will insulate your walls with ecowool. But we had to throw mineral wool out of the walls more than once because it had become unusable. Of course, she herself was not to blame for this, she simply did not follow the insulation technology, but ecowool forgives even that.

Cross insulation of the walls of a frame house from the outside

Cross insulation of the walls of a frame house from the inside

Insulate a frame house from within invented by the Scandinavians. In fact, it is much more convenient than outside, because. in this version, we are not afraid of precipitation and other weather disasters (in particular, tips from a neighbor). Warming from the inside usually also goes in a horizontal crate 40 × 50 or 50 × 50 with a pitch of 400-625 mm, only the crate is already on top of a plastic film (vapor barrier).

Do not forget that the crate is torn at the openings:

Insulation of the attic floor (ceiling) of a frame house

WITH top floor everything is the same as with the floor of a frame house, only it makes no sense to insulate from below, we do everything from above. Remember that you can pour or lay not only 150-200 mm of insulation (in the size of the overlap lag), but also 300, 400 or even 500 mm of insulation. Walking on it will be problematic, but it will be very warm in winter and also cool in summer.

Attic insulation

Video about the insulation of the attic with Rockwool:

Insulation of the basement of a frame house

The plinth of a frame house is conveniently insulated with foam or extruded foam, which is attached to special fasteners.

So, in this article, we got to know the most different options frame house insulation. This is a very important stage that can directly affect the health of you and your loved ones, so I urge you to take it responsibly.

And traditionally, I remind you of our services - you can buy a ready-made one from us or order its development according to your needs, and if you are still interested in insulation, we will insulate your house with ecowool or bring it.

One of the most important works in the construction of a frame building is the laying of insulation. Only with the help of correct and high-quality thermal insulation, it is possible to prevent heat from escaping through the building envelope, as well as to reduce heating costs. In our article we will try to answer in detail the question of which insulation is best for a frame house: walls, floors and roofs.

The choice of insulation

It should be noted that the final choice thermal insulation material will depend on the preferences and financial capabilities of the owner country house or apartments.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam is considered one of the most popular heat insulators in the domestic market. Such products have a lot of advantages, for example:

• Low cost;
• Simplicity of laying of plates on the leveled surfaces;
• Light weight.

The disadvantages of polystyrene include:

• Little strength;
• Possibility of ignition under the influence of open flame;
• Insufficient sound insulation performance.

Mineral wool is considered the most common thermal insulation for frame insulation. country houses. Such products are supplied to hardware stores in the form of durable pressed rectangular slabs. Material cuts well sharp knife or hand saw, which allows you to quickly create pieces of the desired size.

The main advantages of this material are:

• High rates of heat and noise insulation;
• Strength;
• Durability.

Minvata - the best way for insulation of the frame structure

Also a big plus of the material is the ability to "breathe the house." The disadvantage of the material is the loss of properties after moisture ingress, so the plates are protected from water by waterproofing.

Note! For the manufacture of mineral wool is used a natural stone such as basalt. After melting the rock, fibers are obtained, which are knocked into slabs or mats. Similar products are not afraid of exposure high temperatures and fire.

glass wool

Glass wool is considered the oldest type of thermal insulation. The material in question is produced from glass industry waste and broken glass, dolomite, lime stone or sand.

Products get to hardware stores in the form of rolls or plates. The advantages of glass wool can be considered:

• fire resistance;
• Low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• Chemical resistance;
• Relative cheapness.

The disadvantage of a heat insulator is the loss of properties under the influence of moisture, so the plates must be protected from water ingress with a plastic film. You also need to use special means(rubber gloves, respirator, goggles) when working with such products.

Ecowool

The first place among heaters in terms of environmental safety should be given to ecowool. According to experts, cellulose is considered the main type of raw material for obtaining such a product. Such thermal insulation is not afraid of moisture, but requires special equipment for sealing into the wall cavity.

With the dry laying method, the substance is rammed between the joints of the frame house. Other disadvantages of the material can be considered high cost, the need for insulation work by highly qualified specialists.

Polyurethane foam or penoizol

One of better ways Insulation of the walls of a frame house is considered to be the use of penoizol or polyurethane foam. To obtain a working solution, two components are used, which, when mixed in a special device, fill all the cells on the surface of the frame house.

Penoizol has good thermal insulation characteristics, but a similar composition is applied with the participation of specialists. The price of polyurethane foam is quite high, so not everyone can afford this method of home insulation.

One of the simplest and available ways insulation is considered to be the use of sawdust. To prepare a working solution, wood particles are mixed with cement or other binder, as well as antiseptics that prevent decay processes.

A mixture of sawdust and cement is used to insulate the floor or ceiling. This method has certain disadvantages. This is the complexity of the work, low efficiency, the possibility of subsidence of the material when laying inside the walls.

Parok or Rockwool

Many developers are trying to determine which thermal insulation - Park or Rockwool, has the best specifications. If many user reviews on the Internet point to Parok, then in our article we will provide a comparison of these two products.

Characteristic	Parok	Rockwool
Coefficient of thermal conductivity	0.036 w/m	0.036 w/m
Vapor permeability index	0.55 mg/mchpa	0.3 mg/mchpa
Maximum Density	35 kg/m³:	35 kg/m³:
fire resistance	Incombustible	Incombustible
Overall dimensions of products	1.2*0.6m	1*0.6m
Total area of ​​boards in one package	10.08m2	6m2
The cost of packaging with a product thickness of 5 centimeters	800 rubles	550 rubles
Price m3 of thermal insulation	1600 rub	1800 rub

Note! Despite similar technical characteristics, Parok mineral wool does not tend to shrink, which cannot be said about Rockwool thermal insulation. In addition, such material has a lower cost.

Warming technology

The design of the frame house needs high-quality insulation. Next, we describe how work is carried out to insulate the walls, floor and roof of the building.

Sten

Note! According to experts, the walls of a frame house should be insulated with mineral wool. A 5 centimeter layer of this material in terms of thermal conductivity is equal to 60 centimeters of brickwork.

As we have already said, such products are afraid of moisture, so the plates must be protected from condensation and water-saturated air with the help of vapor barrier films and special membranes. The insulation in question is attached between the vertical guides of the battens, which are installed every 59 centimeters, with a plate width of 60 cm.

Thermal insulation materials are laid in several layers, depending on the thickness of the frame guides, and the joints of each row of plates should be at different heights. Here, another layer of mineral wool is also taken into account, located with outer side building.

For laying thermal insulation, wooden bars 5 centimeters thick are nailed to the frame in a horizontal position. The distance between the guides for high-quality joining of the plates should be 59 centimeters.

Laying insulation on the walls

At the next stage of work, mats are laid from the outside, after which the insulation is protected from external negative influences with a windproof film. The membrane is attached to wooden blocks using stapler staples, the joints of the film are sealed with adhesive tape. In the future, wooden blocks with a section of 5 * 5 centimeters will be stuffed on the surface of the walls with a windproof film to form a ventilation gap. At the final stage of work, finishing material will be attached to these guides.

Now let's move on to the internal insulation of the frame house. Here the guide bars are arranged vertically. For insulation, you can use mats of various thicknesses, for example, 5 and 10 centimeters with a frame support thickness of 15 centimeters. As we have already said, the joints of mineral wool slabs should be at different levels, so the material is cut and the formed seams are blocked by the next row of thermal insulation. Total: the thickness of all layers of insulation is at least 20 cm.

Scheme of the cross-insulation pie of a frame house

After filling the space between the racks of the frame, high-quality vapor barrier is nailed to the wooden bars. In this case, the rough side of the film should be oriented in inner part premises. Next, the same wooden blocks with a cross section of 5 * 5 centimeters are nailed to the racks to form an internal ventilation gap. Further, finishing material will be fixed on these guides.

Note! The rough surface of the vapor barrier film allows you to protect the insulation from moisture. Water droplets will accumulate on the tubercles of the material.

Insulation is carried out in this way interior partitions. In this case, mineral wool is used as sound insulation. Here glassine is used instead of vapor barrier.

The nuances of wall insulation:

• Mineral wool slabs must be carefully pushed into the arranged frame, avoiding bends and deformation;
• Insulation cannot be compacted, use a layer larger than the thickness of the frame racks;
• After laying the thermal insulation, the places of poor-quality laying of the material are determined, and the cracks are closed.

Paula

When insulating the floor in a frame building along the logs, the structure is conditionally divided into two types: finishing and rough. At the initial stage of work, uncut boards are mounted on wooden beams, which are pre-treated with antiseptics. Such materials need to be fitted as tightly as possible to each other, which will prevent the penetration of cold air.

To prevent the penetration of rodents over the boards are fixed metal mesh With small cell, then a windproof film, which is attached to the logs with a stapler or small nails. Now you can lay the mineral wool slabs. The joints between these materials are fastened with mounting foam.

Note! When laying mineral wool between the clean floor and the insulation boards, a gap of 3-5 centimeters is left, which will help remove moisture from the thermal insulation.

Roofs

Mineral wool is considered the main material for warming the roof of a frame house. Similar work is carried out in cases where there is a residential attic floor. At the initial stage of work, it is necessary to inspect roof structure, treat the tree with an antiseptic.

Now they begin to install the batten on the inside of the rafters, nailing the boards every 20-30 centimeters. Mineral wool slabs are laid on the outside in several layers.

Note! When laying thermal insulation, make sure that the products are sealed at the joints. Leaving gaps in the thermal insulation is not recommended.

At the next stage of work on outside rafters are fixed waterproofing film so that the material can pass water vapor in only one direction - up. Docking of panels is carried out with an overlap of 15 centimeters, after which the products are additionally fastened with adhesive tape.

For effective insulation between the membrane and mineral wool, an air gap of 2-5 centimeters is left. For its formation, wooden bars of the required thickness are used.

The film is nailed with stapler staples or with thin wooden slats with small nails. At the location of the skate, they make several ventilation holes. Now fix the vapor barrier and lay the roofing material. inner lining made from block house, wooden lining or sheets of plywood.