Cesspool without a bottom with your own hands. Do-it-yourself cesspool without regular pumping of domestic wastewater Drain cesspool

Often, in a country house or a plot of your own house, you can find an equipped cesspool, which is a 2-meter depression on the surface of the earth. The shape of such a structure can be square or rectangular, since this structure is much easier to make. It is believed that the most suitable option are pits round shape, since there is a slight load on the walls.

What are sewer pits?

Usually for the device of cesspools are used various materials, but most often used brick, stone and concrete. The walls of such a recess can be fixed with bitumen-treated boards, but this is extremely rare.

Despite the wide variety of methods, pits can be:

with waterproofing and bottom;
without a base for a bottom device.

Equipped cesspool from concrete rings without a bottom is much easier, but there are some limitations. For example, it cannot be used if the daily volume of wastewater is more than one m3. Also, this method is not suitable for areas with high accommodation. ground water. In the worst case, dirty liquid can enter the drinking water source.

When the pit without a bottom is completely filled, it is simply filled up, so this solution can hardly be called economical. This is due to the gradual decrease in the usable area of the territory. Also an important disadvantage is the spread of an unpleasant odor.

Cesspool pit with or without bottom

To build a waterproofed recess will require a relatively considerable cost, and some difficulties may arise during the construction process. Despite this, this option is considered the most convenient.

Advantages and disadvantages of cesspools

Important advantages of waterproofed pits include:

the environmental friendliness of the design is explained by the fact that waste is removed using a sewage truck;
sewerage can be used regardless of changes in the level of groundwater;
such a pit cannot pollute the earth with waste;
there is an opportunity to build structures on their own.

The disadvantages are:

the presence of an unpleasant odor, which can be eliminated only with the use of special chemical substances, which accelerate the process of decomposition of biological waste;
fragility, especially for brick cesspools;
siltation of such a depression. If year-round use of sewage is provided, then the sewage truck will have to be called once every few weeks.

The disadvantage of any cesspool can be an unpleasant smell.

Which cesspool is better to make - with a bottom or without a bottom?

When constructing a cesspool, you should first of all focus on the level of groundwater, it will depend on this indicator which septic tank is better to do.

If the groundwater is 3-5 meters lower than the ground level, then you can not make a septic tank without a bottom. In this case, it is better to give preference to local purification systems.

The same restrictions apply to situations where there is a well or well at a distance of 25 meters.

In fact, the advantages and disadvantages of cesspools are obvious. This design is easier to do, and does not require significant financial costs. But you will have to call the sewer truck more often, be content with unpleasant odors and other inconveniences.

With a close occurrence of groundwater, preference should be given to a local treatment plant

How to choose the right place for a cesspool device?

There are norms and rules in accordance with which it is worth choosing a place for cesspools. The main requirement is the remoteness of this septic tank from various kinds of buildings.
So, you need to focus on the following requirements:

the pit must be at least 12 meters away from residential buildings;
the distance from the pit to the fence should be more than one meter;
the cesspool should be 30 meters away from a well or other drinking source.

The last requirement is more related to structures without a bottom. When planning to equip a cesspool, compliance with these standards is considered mandatory.

How to calculate the size of a cesspool?

The pit must be built on the basis that 0.5 m3 of water is enough for one person living in the house. Thus, for a family of five people, it is required to build a cesspool, the volume of which will be at least eight cubic meters.

If in country house water heating devices and a bathroom are installed, then the water consumption for one person will be approximately 150 liters per day. The whole family will use 700 liters of water per day, that is, 0.7 m3. If the country house provides for permanent residence, then it will be necessary to pump out the pit once a week.

The size of the sewage pit will also depend on the type of rock in the area. If throughput the soil is good, then the volume of such a deepening can be reduced by 40%. If the earth is clayey, then it is required to make a hole with a margin that will be more than the monthly waste rate.

There are also requirements regarding the distance to the surface in the case of a maximum level of drains, this is at least one meter. If you ignore this requirement, then the appearance of bad odors is inevitable. The hole itself should be no more than three meters deep.

When calculating the volume of the cesspool, the total volume of waste of the whole family should be taken into account

Wastewater pit device

The process of equipping a cesspool without a bottom must be taken with the utmost responsibility, since waste passing into the ground can pollute groundwater. For this reason, when constructing such a structure, it is required to fulfill all sanitary and technical conditions for a particular object.

Important! It is impossible to make a cesspool without a bottom if more than one cubic meter of sewage is drained into it per day.

Immediately before work, you should determine the location of the septic tank. As a rule, the distance from the foundation of the house to the structure should be at least five meters. In addition, it is required to retreat a few meters from the neighboring site. Since there is a risk of dirty sewage entering the drinking water, then it is required to maintain a certain distance from the pit to the well or well. If the soil on the site has an average density, then this indicator should be approximately 30 meters. In the case of clay soil, this distance can be reduced to 20 meters. If there are more sands and sandy loams on the site, then it is required to increase the distance to 50 meters. A cesspool will be a safe and inexpensive facility if you choose the right location for it.
After determining the location of the construction of structures without a bottom, they proceed to the stage of digging a foundation pit of the required dimensions. As mentioned earlier, the volume of the pit is determined taking into account the number of people living in the house and the daily volume of incoming wastewater. Depending on the volume of such a pit, the frequency of its pumping and maintenance is determined. As a rule, a sewage machine is called for these purposes. The recommended depth of the structure is no more than three meters. This requirement is explained by the fact that it will be easier for the car to reach the bottom of the pit.

Important! Careful attention must be paid to the depth of the hole. When performing appropriate calculations, one should take into account the likelihood of a rise in the ground level with an increase in precipitation and the onset of floods. To eliminate the risk of melt and rainwater getting into the pit, it is necessary to strengthen and isolate the walls of the recess. For such purposes, one can brickwork or a cesspool made of concrete rings of the required size.

When determining the depth of the cesspool, it is necessary to keep in mind the level of floods

With the help of concrete it is required to seal inside structures, with special attention paid to the joints. Further, these same walls are treated with liquid bitumen. In any case, you can not do without waterproofing work.
Between the sources of wastewater drainage and the cesspool, trenches are pulled out into which sewer pipes will be laid. They are dug under a slope with the obligatory consideration of the depth of freezing of the earth, which depends directly on the terrain. The slope of the pipes will depend on their chosen diameter. To do everything right, you can familiarize yourself with the regulatory and technical literature. If the pipe laying is correct, then you don’t have to worry about clogging communications or freezing them in frost.
After laying the pipes, they are connected to all points of plumbing and other appliances. Also at this stage, all earthworks are completed. Very often, in addition to the house, there are other buildings on a private plot, in particular, this applies to a summer kitchen and a bathhouse. If all calculations of the volume of the pit are performed correctly, then there will be no need to make additional tanks.
Now you can safely close the dug pit. To do this, you can use a concrete slab or make a concrete cast platform with your own hands. As a rule, it is impossible to completely close the pit, since it will still be installed manhole through which the waste will be pumped out.

Features of cesspools that do not have a bottom

Land for the construction of cesspools is not the same everywhere, so there are certain features in one case or another.

Important! As a rule, wastewater is quickly able to quickly pass through sand and loess, so it enters the ground without prior filtration. This is dangerous because nearby water sources can quickly become unusable.

Cesspools without a bottom can contaminate a source of drinking water

To provide effective protection groundwater, some work needs to be done:

If possible, reduce the surface area of the earth through which runoff seeps. A good way out of the situation is partial flooding concrete mix parts of the bottom of the pit. Due to this design, wastewater will not penetrate the ground too quickly, lingering in the tank for as long as possible;
Concerning clay soils, they provide the opposite effect. Clay slowly and heavily passes water, which is why the sewer does not work at the proper level. In this case, it is desirable to lay additional outlets at the bottom of the pit. To do this, drill several holes in the ground, which provide for the installation of perforated plastic tubes. As a rule, the more such waste, the better the throughput;
When determining the length of the pipe, it is worth considering that it should rise at least 1.5 meters above the surface of the pit. In a filled tank, there is always a risk of blockage of pipes, and to prevent this from happening, special plugs should be put on them. If a large number of holes are made in the pipe, then the water will quickly go into the ground, while solid inclusions will remain at the bottom of the pit in the form of sediment.
You can dig another pit near the already finished hole. Between these tanks, a sewer pipe is laid under a slope. This slope is made away from the first hole to the second recess. The diameter of the sewer pipe laid in the trench must be at least 5 cm. Thus, when the water reaches the level of this pipe, it is poured into the second pit, while the solid fractions will remain at the bottom of the first tank.

Important! If a cesspool without a bottom is not cleaned in a timely manner, it may simply overflow. In order to eliminate this risk, it is recommended to install an overflow system. Such work does not take too much time, while there will be a tangible result.

A cesspool is a relatively quick and economical solution with which you can improve the sewerage system in your country house or suburban area. One of the disadvantages affecting the cost of maintaining such a structure is the fairly frequent use of a sewage machine for pumping wastewater, since the pit fills up and becomes dirty quickly. Also, the frequency of calling the car will depend on the number of people permanently residing in the house. During the construction of such a tank without a bottom, it is required in without fail follow the sanitary and technical rules and take into account all the requirements regarding the place of choice for the pit, as well as the distance from neighboring buildings and structures.

This topic is not at all interesting to a city dweller sitting in his apartment in a multi-storey building. She is also not interesting to the inhabitant of a luxurious mansion.

It is for lovers of country life or for people living in their own homes without amenities. They themselves need to think about the arrangement of acceptable conditions for their lives. Let's try to consider the construction of drain pits. The simplest drain pits that provide acceptable sanitary standards of life.

Arrangement of a drain pit

Before starting construction, it is necessary to determine the height of the groundwater level. This is very important point. If it is high, that is, the waters lie quite close to the surface of the earth, it will not work to make a deep hole. In general, a high level of minus for the construction of such a pit.

An area with such water can be flooded in the spring when the snow melts, or even during heavy rains, the pit will overflow and its contents will spill over the area, which is very unpleasant and fetid.

Helpful information ! You can make a hole 2.5 meters deep if the groundwater is below 8 meters.

The stages of building a drain pit are as follows:

First, a place is chosen where it will be located. Everything is considered - the distance from the house, from the water intake, neighbors, the height of the area.
Next, consider its volume. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the size of the tank of the sewage truck, if there is an intention to call it in the future.
Materials for construction, their varieties are selected.
The construction itself, the direct erection of the structure.
Giving a civilized appearance to the territory near the pit, its arrangement.

If there are financial and other opportunities, you need to hire an excavator, he will dig a hole in a couple of hours. And if you have the strength, free time and want to save money, you can do this work yourself. How long this will take is unknown.

Helpful information! The distance from the pit to the house should not be small, the smallest is 5 meters, but more is better if possible.

When choosing the size of the pit before its construction, the following factors must be considered:

How often do they live in the house - year-round or only in the summer season.
The number of people living in the house matters.
The required amount of water per day per person. 200 liters per day is the norm, but it is very approximate.

After calculating the volume, you can lay the pipeline. Pipes should go with a noticeable slope, 7 centimeters per meter of pipe, that is, the dependence here is such that the longer the pipe, the greater the slope.

There are two types of pits - airtight and without a bottom. Of course, each of them has its own characteristics that should be considered.

Drain hole without a bottom

This is the simplest type of drain pit. The liquid from such a pit gradually goes into the ground, solid waste is pressed. When the pit is full, it is buried and built elsewhere. Or call services to clean the pit.

With such a pit, the daily discharge into it should not exceed cubic meter. Such a pit cannot be placed above the water intake or on the same line with it, its waters can get into drinking water.

It should be no closer than 50 meters from all water intakes. Of course, this is a very problematic hole. All restrictions must be met, since it is necessary to protect the environment, and pollution of groundwater and soil is a crime that is punishable by a large fine.

In no case should there be a well near such a pit, as it will certainly be polluted. These pits are simple, do not require special expenses, but, for obvious reasons, are rarely used, they leave our lives.

Sealed drain pit

Such a pit can be made of concrete, brick, wood, concrete rings, all this is perfect. After construction, it is carefully waterproofed.

Despite the fact that this is also a very simple and affordable device, it is already much better, as it eliminates environmental contamination. There is no need to worry about the water in the water intake, and besides, it does not matter at what height the groundwater occurs. Provided good waterproofing, and this is easily achievable, the pit can be built to any depth.

Varieties of pits with a sealed bottom:

Brick pits. Naturally, a pit is being dug. Its bottom is well compacted, and then filled with a mixture of cement, sand, gravel and water. After the bottom hardens well, the walls of the pit are lined with bricks. An old, used brick is also quite suitable. You can also use ceramic brick, it is more reliable, you can and successfully - natural stone. Then a roofing material is placed between the ground and the masonry. It serves as additional waterproofing. And the remaining space between the ground and the roofing material is filled with a solution of concrete.
Drainage pit made of reinforced concrete rings. Here you can not do without a crane. You can dig a hole in advance and use a crane that will unload the rings brought after the purchase, that is, lay them immediately at the future place of service. The joints between the rings must be sealed with cement. The number of rings is calculated based on the depth of the pit and the height of the ring. The usual height is 1 meter. Such pits are very reliable and serve for a long time. This is their main advantage.
Pit from a plastic tank. This is a very convenient, but the most expensive option. Tanks are completely ready, sealed. They are very durable and have a long service life. Great option!

Some craftsmen build pits from barrels, cutting off the bottom, using cases washing machines, who have served their time, stack the old wheels of cars on top of each other, full scope for fantasy.

There are pits with a double drain. For example, for draining from a bath or bathroom - without a bottom, and from the kitchen and toilet - a sealed pit. It is convenient and more economical.

The pit needs to be cleaned from time to time. To do this, it is possible different ways.

Call for sewage equipment. The pleasure is quite expensive. It is often unlikely that you will be able to use this service. And so, please call, they will come at a convenient time. It is imperative to provide a good entrance so that the driver is comfortable and the flower beds are not damaged. If the pit is very deep, it will not be possible to clean it completely, the length of the machine hose will not be enough.
The use of biological products. Under the influence of these drugs, waste and waste products decompose into odorless water and a solid. The liquid can be pumped out with a special fecal pump and even used as fertilizer. Cleansing bacteria come in the form of powder, tablets, liquid. Instructions are attached to them without fail, according to which it is necessary to act. They do not fall asleep in an empty pit, they will simply die there without food. The preparations are septics and antiseptics, it is impossible to say that they are cheap. They will not completely clean the pit, anyway, occasionally, however, you will have to call the sewers and ask for their help.

Everyone can choose for himself the most suitable way to clean the drain pit in his area.

The owner's business, whether to build on the site drain hole. One has only to say that the method of the device autonomous sewerage there is no easier way in the area. Opponents of this method talk about the smell, the risk of flooding, very fast filling and the cost of cleaning. In general, we repeat, everyone decides for himself.

If you are faced with the acute question of choosing the type of autonomous sewage device, then this material is for you. This will be a series of 4 articles on the topic of autonomous sewage. In these articles, we will consider various types of autonomous sewage, find out what is the difference between a wastewater storage tank, a cesspool, a septic tank, a biofilter, a dry closet and an aeration tank. This material will help highlight the pros and cons of each device, limitations in use and, finally, the cost of their installation and operation. Part 1 is devoted to the construction of a wastewater storage tank.

The concept of autonomous sewage and cesspool

Solving the problem of autonomous sewerage can require a significant amount of time, effort and money. How to choose best option right for you?

To begin with, by and large, 2 types of autonomous sewage can be distinguished:

sewage storage tanks;
facilities designed for biological wastewater treatment.

Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Waste water tanks

The sewage tank can be installed in principle in two ways:

a so-called cesspool (without a bottom) is arranged on the site;
a sealed container is buried in the ground on the site (this option can also be called a "hermetic cesspool". The container can be ready-made (made of plastic) or assembled on site (for example, from reinforced concrete rings and concrete bottom).

Cesspool

Let's make a reservation right away that it is forbidden to use containers or wells without a bottom with filtration of effluents into the soil if the daily volume of effluents is more than 1 m 3 (SNIP 2.04.03 - 85 p.3.9). If the pit has no bottom at all, then the untreated drains directly fall into the ground. If the volume of wastewater is small (up to 1 m 3), then with the help of bacteria that live in the soil, natural water purification occurs. If the volume of sewage is significant, then the land simply cannot cope with such a volume of sewage. Everything harmful substances along with runoff will fall into the soil and groundwater, worsening the already not very favorable environmental situation. If there is a well within a radius of 30 meters from a cesspool without a bottom, all harmful substances along with waste will directly get there, and using water from this well will be hazardous to health.

Bottomless pits have been actively built in villages and towns for many years. But let's not forget that a few decades ago people did not use so much water: they bathed in baths, and did not take a bath and shower every day, no one knew about the existence of automatic washing machines, not to mention dishwashers.

Often there are pits, the bottom of which is lined with rubble. Usually, during the construction of such pits, a layer of rubble is covered with coarse sand from above, which improves the quality of wastewater treatment. But this is no longer a cesspool, but a single-chamber septic tank.

Conclusion: in modern conditions, it is not recommended to build a cesspool without a bottom (therefore, we will not talk about its device). And a cesspool with a crushed stone bottom is already a single-chamber septic tank (we will talk about it in the next article).

Sealed container (sealed cesspool)

Sealed cesspool: HDPE pipes for draining wastewater and a bin for collecting wastewater (the bunker can replace a sewer well)

The principle of operation of the wastewater storage tank (sealed cesspool)

A sealed container is installed on your site, into which wastewater from the whole house flows through pipes. Wastewater is stored in this tank until it is pumped out by a sewage machine.

For a family of 4-5 people, the container should have a volume of at least 8 m 3.

Resources required for the operation of the sewage tank (sealed cesspool)

Drains, which are called liquid household waste, are taken out by special machines - vacuum trucks. If you use all the benefits of civilization, including a bath, an automatic washing machine and dishwasher, then it is necessary to call a sewage truck 2-4 times a month.

Restrictions on the use of a sewage tank (sealed cesspool)

There are no restrictions on application.

Advantages of a wastewater storage tank (sealed cesspool):

environmentally friendly - waste is removed to discharge stations, there is no pollution of soil and groundwater, because the drive is sealed;
ease of installation and operation;
does not depend on the level of groundwater;
soil type does not affect the quality of operation.

Disadvantages of a wastewater storage tank (sealed cesspool):

the cost of operation (call a car to clean the pit will cost from 18 to 30 dollars. The frequency of calling the car is once every one and a half to two weeks, with permanent residence in the House);
availability of space for the entrance of a sewage truck. The dimensions of the sewage truck, on average, are 6.7x2.5x2.6 m. A hose is used for pumping. The hose has a length of 7 meters, of which 3 meters of the hose is lowered into the pit, i.e. remains 4 meters;

Cesspool truck dimensions

an unpleasant odor is possible if a well-shaped accumulator is used (plastic containers will help to avoid an unpleasant odor). If a pit with a gravel bottom is used, that is, a single-chamber septic tank, and the number of drains does not exceed the volume for which your pit is designed, then there is no smell.

The main stages of the installation of a wastewater storage tank (sealed cesspool)

We calculate the volume of the storage. If the house has a bath and water heaters that run on solid fuel or electricity, then 1 person consumes an average of 150 liters of water per day, but if the water heaters run on gas, then about 180 liters of water are consumed per 1 person. If there are 4 people in the family, then 150x4 \u003d 600 liters or 180x4 \u003d 720 liters. The rate of water consumption per day is 0.6 - 0.72 m 3 . With a storage volume of 8 m 3 it is necessary to pump out waste every 10-13 days.
We choose a place on your site where the drive will be located. In accordance with building codes and regulations (SNiP), the drive must be located at a distance of at least 5 meters from the house and at least 2 meters from the fence.
The drive itself can be various designs: from factory plastic containers to a well made of reinforced concrete rings and a concrete bottom ( finished construction- reinforced concrete bottom, or put a reinforced concrete slab instead of the bottom);

Plastic containers are more airtight than wells. The most acceptable eurocubes are large plastic tanks with a capacity of 1000 liters in a metal crate on a plastic or wooden pallet, have either 2 plugs on top and bottom, or a plug on top and a tap on the bottom. They are used to transport liquid substances: liquid glue, paint, etc. You can buy used. They are quite light (2 people can easily lift them), compact (they fit in a trailer for a car) and relatively inexpensive (used ones cost $60-100). meters, monolithic concrete or clay bricks. The bottom of the well should be located no deeper than 3 meters from the surface of the earth, otherwise the sewage machine will not be able to completely pump out the drains. Internal waterproofing is mandatory, and if there is a sufficiently high groundwater level, external waterproofing is also performed. The accumulator is covered with a lid having a heat-insulating gasket made of foam or mineral wool which will protect the pipeline from freezing

eurocube

A plastic float level switch makes it easy to tell when it's time to call for vacuum trucks. It is sold separately. (costs from $10);

Plastic float switch

A ventilation riser with a diameter of at least 100 mm is installed in the overlapping of the storage tank. It is brought out 700 mm above the planning mark of the earth;

Septic tank made of reinforced concrete elements (dimensions in mm)

1 - reinforced concrete ring with a diameter of 1000 mm; 2 - wooden cover; 3 - reinforced concrete ring with a diameter of 700 mm; 4 - supporting reinforced concrete ring; 5 - cast-iron hatch (or wooden cover); 6 - ventilation riser; 7 - floor slab; 8 - plate-bottom; 9 - cement screed.

We lay sewer pipes (most often they use special PVC pipes with a diameter of 100 mm) so that trees do not grow in the place where the pipeline is laid, otherwise access to the pipeline will be limited when repairing or replacing pipes;
If the pipeline is laid below the freezing depth (1.2-0.8 m), then it does not need to be insulated. Map of soil freezing depths throughout former USSR can be viewed in the Questions section, in the material.

Estimated cost of a wastewater storage tank (sealed cesspool)

The cost will depend on what type of storage you choose. The following is approximate cost materials necessary for the construction of all types of storage

used eurocube - 600 hryvnia ($75);
reinforced concrete rings for sewerage - 300-700 hryvnias, depending on the diameter ($ 37-90);
the bottom of the well - 300-900 hryvnia ($ 37-110);
reinforced concrete cover with a hole for the hatch - 300-800 hryvnia ($ 37-100);
clay brick 2000 pieces - about $ 600, if you use a used brick, then the costs are reduced to $ 400;
concrete 4 m3 - 2600 hryvnia ($ 325).

Calling 1 sewage truck will cost 150-250 hryvnia ($18-30).

Attention: Prices are valid for 2009.

Depending on the amount of drained water, you can choose suitable option:

a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option to make a drain in the bath;
sealed cesspool - for a large number of drains;
septic tank - for partial treatment and draining of wastewater.

Which is better - a sealed or drain cesspool?

If the daily amount of discharged water does not exceed one cubic meter, a drain pit can be used. This is convenient, for example, when organizing a drain in a bath. It is enough to dig a pit with a volume of 3 m³, lay a pillow of 30 cm of sand and 50 cm of stones on the bottom, strengthen its walls with brick, concrete or even tires and close the hole.

If much more water is drained, it does not have time to seep and be cleaned. Then you can make a completely sealed cesspool. Ready-made containers are sold, which can be immediately buried.

The only drawback of such a pit is the monthly pumping of waste.

A septic tank is the best cesspool

If the amount of drain exceeds one and a half cubic meters per day, but it is unprofitable to order a monthly pumping out of the pit, the best way out is to make a septic tank in a private house. It filters waste quite well, polluting the environment much less than the usual latrine with a pit. Ready-made systems are sold, which are enough to bury on the site, or you can do it completely on your own.

Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade septic tank

A do-it-yourself septic tank has a number of advantages over ready-made solutions:

The final cost is significantly lower;
+ does not require a large area for the organization of the filtration field;
+ you can organize one septic tank for two houses;
+ depending on the type of wastewater, pumping is required every few years;
+ It is possible to carry out a complete cleaning once every ten years.

But the disadvantages of such a septic tank are also present:

- significant labor costs - it is problematic to cope with the device of a septic tank alone;
- time - pouring cement into the formwork and its hardening takes about a month;
- additional equipment - to simplify the process, you will need a concrete mixer or a drill with a mixer.

Site selection

The requirements for a septic tank are the same as for a cesspool - no closer than 15 meters from the well and 30 meters from the reservoir. At the same time, do not forget about the neighbors - the distance to their well should also not be less. But to the house it can be placed almost close - 3 m from the foundation with a one-story building, and 5 m - with a two-story building. In addition, this is how the issue of insulating the drain pipe is solved - the greater the distance to the pit, the deeper you will have to dig a trench and insulate the pipe.

Be sure to take into account the direction of groundwater and flood water - they should not go from the septic tank to the house or well. At the same time, it is also undesirable to arrange a septic tank in the lower part of the site - melt and runoff water will flood it. To protect the septic tank from flooding or raise it above the groundwater level, it can not be buried completely in the ground, insulating the above-ground part to prevent freezing.

Step by step instructions on how to make a septic tank

After choosing a place for a septic tank, work begins on its organization. It is necessary to calculate the required volume of the main chamber and the overall dimensions of the pit. So, for four people, the main chamber will be at least 150x150 cm, and for five or six - 200x200 cm. In this case, the depth should be at least 2.5 m, but not deeper than 3 m. This is done for the convenience of future pumping. The second, or drainage, chamber cannot be less than a third of the main one.

If there is a shower in the house and it is used daily, the size of the chambers must be increased by another 50%. It is also better to leave a small margin, since the filling of the working chamber should not exceed 2/3 of the total volume per day. In addition, the drains in the working chamber should settle a little, and not immediately overflow into the drainage chamber. The optimal volume of a septic tank is the daily amount of drained water multiplied by 3.

After determining the size of the chambers, markings are made and a foundation pit is dug. Upper fertile layer removed - it can be used to cover the septic tank and the device beds.

The trench for the drain pipe is dug at the same time as the pit. The slope of the pipe is 3 degrees per meter. So that the masses do not stagnate, the pipe must be laid without straight and sharp corners.
It is desirable to get to sandy or sandy soil. On clay soil, a sand and gravel cushion is made. First, 30 cm of sand is poured and tamped, and then the same amount of crushed stone of a fraction of 5 cm. Thus, for a septic tank 2.5 m deep, you will have to dig a pit 3.1 m deep.

The rest of the formwork is done on top of the pillow. The formwork along the walls is one-sided - the second side is the earth.

A drain pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is inserted into the formwork at a height of at least 80 cm from the bottom. If it is above freezing of the soil, the pipe must be insulated.
A tee is inserted into the wall formwork between the chambers, through which settled water will drain into the drainage chamber. It should be 20 cm below the drain pipe.
Concrete can be kneaded both manually in a trough with a chopper, and a concrete mixer. To give the mixture elasticity and frost resistance, you can add a tablespoon of ordinary washing powder to each bucket of water.

Concrete mixed with crushed stone and stones is poured into the formwork different sizes, and the mixture itself is bayoneted, removing air bubbles. The pipe and the tee are poured so that after the formwork is removed, there is a monolithic wall around them.

As soon as the concrete hardens, you can make the top floor. It is most convenient to use corrugated board for formwork. It is laid so that it goes halfway onto the walls of the septic tank - so that when pouring, the roof and walls merge into a monolith.
A technical hatch with a diameter of 1 m is made, around which formwork is installed. It is necessary to make two holes above the chambers and insert pipes. In the main chamber there is a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a reverse slope for pumping out sludge, which does not reach the bottom by 20 cm. A vacuum release hole is made at the end of such a pipe. Inserted into the second ventilation tube 50 mm in diameter.

An overlap with a minimum thickness of 15 cm is poured with the obligatory addition of stone and bayonet. After hardening, the septic tank is covered with waterproofing and it can be completely covered with earth, leaving only a technical hatch. So that in winter the septic tank does not freeze through this hatch, it is covered with foam plastic and covered with another lid.

An improved do-it-yourself cesspool is ready to go. After some time, the bottom of the main chamber becomes silted, bacteria develop there, increasing the filtration capabilities of the pillow, and the final cleaning of the drain water takes place in the second chamber.

And how to make a simple cesspool is described step by step in the video:

All conveniences of human habitation are connected with three components: electricity, water and sewerage. The owners of "summer residences" - dachas, small country houses - are trying to equip their seasonal home with maximum comfort. Providing it with electricity is the most simple task, almost every corner of Russia is electrified. Water supply is decided by the arrangement of wells or wells. The most difficult question is the device local sewerage- also has a standard solution: a do-it-yourself drain pit is being built on the site.

A drain pit in a private house or in a country house is an elementary structure designed to collect and accumulate local sewage effluents. Here by sewer pipes household waste is transported from toilets, kitchen sinks, washing machines and dishwashers.

Any treatment facilities in anticipation of this simple collection of sewage is not provided. As the pit fills, it is cleaned by pumping out the contents. Depending on the cleaning method, the accumulated sewage is removed by special machines - sewers or, after treatment with biological products, are used for watering plants and as fertilizer.

Types of drain pits

Drainage pits are classified in relation to ground level and materials of manufacture.

Relative to ground level

On this basis, collections of sewer waste are divided into two groups:

superficial;
underground.

Surface collectors of sewage

This option is only suitable for use in the warm season. It is used extremely rarely, since in this case the sewer network has to be laid on top. The required slope (from the "supplier" of wastewater - sinks, toilets, etc. - to the collector) can only be provided if all sources of wastewater are above the inlet of the tank. It is advisable to arrange surface drain tanks in areas with a high level of groundwater.

Underground drain pits

Underground sewage collection facilities are the most common. Depending on the number of drains, the design of the drain pit may or may not have a sealed bottom. Sanitary norms of Russia pits without sealing the bottom are allowed if the daily volume of effluents does not exceed 1 m 3.

In all other cases, a sealed underground reservoir is equipped.

According to the materials of manufacture

For the construction of the construction of the drain pit, you can use the following materials:

ceramic brick;
concrete (in the manufacture of a monolithic structure);
waste tractor tires;
plastic;
tree.

For do-it-yourself drain pits concrete rings- the most inappropriate option. Construction equipment is required for their installation - manually heavy products cannot be handled.

The simplest and cheap way arranging a drain pit in a private house or on suburban area- the design of its walls with the help of tires. But such a design is unreliable in terms of tightness: there is a high risk of the liquid component of sewage entering the soil.

Location - sanitary restrictions

Some homeowners believe that they can do anything on their site, and they are deeply mistaken. Sanitary services do not sleep - they require strict adherence to the norms and rules in force in the state, regardless of the type of property.

The location of the drain pit in a private house is also strictly regulated: the standards stipulate the minimum allowable distances from the wastewater storage tank to engineering structures, residential buildings and site boundaries:

to the conduit (central) - 10 meters;
to the underground gas pipeline - 5 meters;
to drinking well: 20 meters clay soils, 30 m - on loams, 50 m - on sandstones and sandy loams;
to a residential building (own and neighboring) - 10-12 meters;
to the fence (site boundary) - 1 meter.

The maximum depth of the drain pit is also regulated: it should not exceed 3 m, if the groundwater level allows it. These restrictions are contained in SanPiN 42-128-4690-88 and SNiP 30-02-97.

Important: Homeowners should be aware that non-compliance sanitary requirements can threaten not only with a fine - in case of damage to the health of others, a criminal case may be initiated.

In addition, when making a drain hole in the country house with your own hands, it must be located on the site in such a way that it is possible to organize an unhindered access to it for special equipment at the time of pumping out.

Tip: Practice shows that it is better to place a drain pit at a distance of at least 15 meters from the windows of residential premises.

Construction order

The device of a drain pit in a private house with your own hands, regardless of the choice of material, is carried out according to the general algorithm:

Explosive gas is formed in sewer tanks. To take him away ventilation is arranged. Its role is played by a pipe brought out through the lid of the pit. Its dimensions are regulated by building codes: diameter - 100 mm, height - at least 600 mm from ground level.

Choosing a drain cleaning method

Before you build a drain pit in a private house, you should decide a very important question: how will you clean it. The amount of work on the improvement of the site depends on this:

if it’s easier for you to periodically invite specialists with a sewage truck, take care of organizing an access road;
if you are ready to do the cleaning yourself, purchase, plastic container with a sealed lid and find out in advance who will take your waste. Do not forget about the means of protecting the skin of the hands and respiratory tract. It is better if it is a gas mask, but, at worst, a respirator will do. Of course, you can not do without rubber boots.

When arranging a drain hole, you need to take care not only how to dig it, but also how to clean it.

Modern technologies make it possible to significantly simplify the process of cleaning the drain pit, if it fills up quickly, or even make it practically waste-free. We are talking about microscopic helpers - capable of turning drains into enough clean water and a solid fraction suitable for use as a fertilizer.

Bacteria not only decompose the contents of the drain pit, but also diligently fight against an unpleasant odor.

Just keep in mind, when deciding how to clean the drain pit in a private house, that you should choose biological products in accordance with the composition of the wastewater. Most bacteria do not survive contact with household chemicals: detergents and washing powders are detrimental to them. However, microorganisms that are resistant to aggressive environments are now being grown.

After the bacteria have worked hard, you just have to pump out the liquid component with the pump (it is completely harmless to humans, animals and plants) and remove the solid sediment from the pit.