Cesspool with their own hands without pumping. Do-it-yourself technology for creating a cesspool

As a result, the question of where to put the waste becomes acute. The simplest option is to equip a cesspool, even the person who has never done such work before can cope with this task. Therefore, it is necessary to think in advance about how to properly make a sewer, what materials it is better to use for this, and take into account all other nuances of this matter.

First of all, you need to find a good place where it will be possible to equip a cesspool in a private house. You also need to familiarize yourself with the main types of such sewers and find out which one is best for your site.

Choosing a place for a cesspool

First of all, you need to choose a site where the cesspool system will be made, there are two options:

Directly on the site, which is adjacent to the dwelling or cottage.
Arrangement of a pit at a distance of at least 10 meters from the foundation of a private house and other buildings, as well as from neighboring houses.

Such a distance requirement is not accidental, the fact is that with a closer construction of a cesspool system without pumping out, possible damage to the foundation, as well as flooding of buildings.

There are other nuances to consider:

The distance from the pit to the fence is also regulated, it must be at least 1 meter;
The depth of the pit should be less than 3 meters. Also, it is necessary to take into account the levels of groundwater in the area;
There must be a distance of at least 25 meters from the cesspool to the drinking wells.

The latter requirement also largely depends on the type of soil on the site. If it is clayey, then the minimum distance to drinking sources is 20 meters, if it is loamy - 30 meters, and if the soil is sandy, this distance should be at least 50 meters.

Varieties of cesspools

Today, all cesspools are divided into three types:

Absorbing (pits that have no bottom).
Sealed.
Septic tanks.

The simplest option would be to equip a storage pit that has no bottom. This species has its positive aspects. First of all, such a tank does not need very frequent pumping. Also, these pits are small, so a minimum of free space is spent and Money for arrangement.

But this species also has disadvantages, among which the main one is the ingress of waste into the soil, which is harmful to the environment. In addition, such a pit will not be able to cope with a large number of drains, so it is mainly equipped in the country, where people do not live for a whole year.

Sealed tanks are considered cleaner, more environmentally friendly and more comfortable to use. The main disadvantage of this design is the complexity of care. The owners have to constantly use the services of sewers to pump out wastewater. With each year of use, you will have to call specialists more and more often.

If the volume of effluents in the house is large enough, then you will also have to call the sewers more often, because the water is pumped out of the tank, and the sludge remains at the bottom. This will entail great inconvenience and waste of money.

Experts advise equipping a sealed tank of the same volume as the tank of a sewage truck. This will avoid overfilling the pit until the next pumping of wastewater.

The most effective and reliable option is a septic tank, which you can also do yourself. This version of the cesspool performs not only the functions of accumulation, but also waste treatment.

You can make both single-chamber and multi-chamber systems yourself. The easiest way to equip and apply single-chamber structures. It will be a kind of well, at the bottom of which there is a thick layer of rubble or broken brick, these materials perform the function of filtering.

This means that rough wastewater treatment takes place, after which the liquid passes into the soil, where, thanks to bacteria, it is also cleaned and clarified. As a result, the storage tank does not fill up so quickly, and a little pollution gets into the soil.

by the most effective option are multi-chamber septic tanks, they purify the water so much that it can then be used for watering beds or other similar tasks. But the disadvantage is the high cost of arranging such a treatment system.

Do-it-yourself cesspool arrangement

In order to choose the right type of cesspool used in a suburban area, you need to accurately determine the location, calculate the daily amount of drains and pay attention to your financial capabilities:

If every day the amount of drains does not exceed 1 cubic meter, then the best option would be to build a simple pit without a bottom and without the need for regular pumping. In such a reservoir, the effluent partially goes into the soil, where it is cleaned by anaerobic bacteria.
Most rural and country toilets are made according to this principle;
If the number of daily drains exceeds 1 cubic meter, then you can forget about options without pumping out, you will have to equip a hermetic structure and regularly use the services of sewers.

The fact is that bottomless structures provide for the ingress of waste into the soil, where special bacteria perform cleaning functions. But we must understand that the possibilities of these bacteria are not unlimited.

With a large number of effluents, microorganisms simply do not cope with their task. In such a situation, environmental pollution will begin, and waste can also enter the aquifers of the soil, and pollute sources drinking water. If the number of drains is very large, then there will be great costs for sewers, in which case it is better to purchase or make a multi-chamber septic tank yourself.

Construction of a simple cesspool

If the number of stocks is small, then it is better not to be smart, such cesspool is done quite simply:

First you need to dig a hole, for this it is not necessary to use special equipment, an ordinary shovel is enough, because the depth will be about 2 meters, the same will be wide, but 3 meters long.
After that, it is necessary to lay the walls of the earth using special materials (concrete rings, car tires, etc.).
At the bottom of the pit it is necessary to pour a layer of rubble.

The final stage in the arrangement of the cesspool system will be the installation of a protective ceiling and cover.

Such a simple version of the cesspool has the following positive aspects:

You can equip the system very quickly and simply without outside help;
Materials for this type of cesspool system are inexpensive;
Ease of operation;
Does not require frequent pumping of wastewater.

True, there are also negative points:

To arrange such a system, it is necessary that the level ground water was below the level of the effluent system;
The operation of this system is advisable if the amount of wastewater does not exceed 1 cubic meter per day;
The pit is filled with sediment;
There are unpleasant odors.

Scheme

Today, there are many options for simple cesspools that you can make yourself. Conventionally, such pits are divided into temporary and permanent, but the main criterion for classification is the material from which the place for drains is made.

Car tires

If a cesspool is needed for a toilet in the country, and there is no desire to spend a lot of money on it, then old car tires can be usefully attached. It is quite simple to build a pit from tires, everything is done very quickly, and the cost of such a design will turn out to be small.

First you need to dig a pit, and on its bottom, one on top of the other, you need to put tires. At the very bottom there should be a layer of rubble. Joints between rubber tires it is better to process with clay, for sealing.

The advantages of such a scheme:

If necessary, the design is easy to restore;
Long service life;
Low cost of materials, quick and easy construction.

Negative sides:

Over time, such material begins to rot;
If the load on the cesspool is too large, then this will lead to pollution;
The cesspool system quickly silts up, so periodic pumping is still needed.

concrete rings

This option also allows you to deal with sewer problems quickly and efficiently. By appearance such a pit will resemble a well. Rings, like tires in the previous scheme, are installed one on top of the other. The joints between the concrete rings, experts advise to close up with a cement screed.

If we recall the classification, then in terms of its type, the construction of concrete rings is more like sealed cesspool systems. Therefore, there is a need to regularly call vacuum trucks. But also from concrete rings, you can equip a homemade septic tank.

Main advantages:

Covering with a hatch is very easy to do;
The cesspool will work for several decades;
You can do everything yourself, without masters;
Low cost of materials.

Main cons:

Unpleasant odors may come out of the ventilation duct;
Pit work needs regular pumping;
Installing the rings in the pit without special equipment is quite difficult.

Brick

Many experts call brick the best material for building cesspools, it is ideal for arranging in a toilet or for removing drains from a sauna.

Advantages of brick systems:

Every owner of the house can handle the masonry, so the construction of the pit will not bring problems;
The design does not harm the environment and does not pollute the soil.

Negative sides:

To prevent silting of the system, it is necessary to constantly use the services of sewers;
Under such working conditions, the brick quickly collapses, so the service life of the cesspool rarely exceeds 20 years;
Unpleasant odors may occur. But this drawback can be eliminated by adding special bacteria that speed up the process of waste decomposition.

Arrangement of a cesspool system made of bricks

The scheme of work is as follows:

The initial stage of the work will be the selection of a site for a pit. At the same time, it is necessary to comply with all the recommendations of specialists, and do everything so that the use of the pit is convenient.

After that, you need to choose one of the design options. They are distinguished by their shape, there are rectangular, round and square types. Next, the required volume is calculated, and you can begin to dig a hole for the cesspool system.

In the traditional version, it is advised to tilt in the direction where the hatch will be located, sand should be poured onto the bottom of the pit and poured with cement. You can also use concrete slabs. But if you need a pit without pumping out, then crushed stone must be poured to the bottom.

After that, the laying of the walls is done. Masters believe that the optimal thickness will be a size of 30 centimeters. They also advise masonry in a chess way, using halves of bricks. In some situations, a quarter of a brick is also used for masonry.

When the walls are already standing, they must be covered with bituminous mastic or a clay castle should be made for better sealing. If necessary, the inner surface can be plastered.

Cesspool from a barrel

This version of the cesspool can be made independently, it does not need regular pumping. But it is worth noting that the cesspool system from the barrel can only work with a small amount of wastewater (up to 1 cubic meter per day).

Step-by-step arrangement:

First of all, you need to prepare a barrel with a volume of 200 liters. It is better to use those materials that are not afraid of rust. Holes must be made in the walls of the container, they will perform the function of drainage. It is necessary to make holes according to the chess system, for this you can use a drill or a grinder. The distance between the holes should be 15-20 centimeters.
We tightly attach the pipe to the bottom of the tank, it will help install the drain pipe. To make the design really tight, it is better to use silicone materials. The place where the pipe is installed should also be treated with mastic.
The container must be wrapped with geotextile and secured with twine. This will help protect the cesspool from soil and other solid elements getting inside, but at the same time will not harm the drainage process.

Installing a cesspool from a barrel is done like this:

First, a trench is dug and a sewer pipeline is laid (necessarily with a slope);
Next, you need to dig a hole, which in size will slightly exceed the size of the barrel;
A layer of gravel or gravel is poured into the bottom of the pit (about 20-25 centimeters);
A ready-made barrel is installed on this pillow and a drain pipe is attached;
The place that remains between the walls of the pit and the barrel must also be filled with gravel;
At the end, the sewer pipe must be connected to the pipe.

Using this method, you can equip a drain pit for different purposes. In particular, it is suitable for draining drains from a bath or sauna, as well as for a toilet.

Drainage pit made of concrete

Concrete is a material that is known for its strength and ability to work in aggressive conditions. Therefore, for the arrangement of the cesspool system, it is also used quite often. You can make a hole from such material as follows:

First you need to determine the volume of the system;
After that, dig a hole taking into account the right sizes;
Formwork is mounted along the perimeter of the pit and filled with concrete mortar;
It is advised to cover the outer part of the walls with bitumen, this will provide waterproofing;
Drainage material is poured at the bottom of the pit (you can use gravel, gravel or even broken brick);

A roofing material or film (for waterproofing) is laid on the walls of the prepared pit. In addition, it is necessary to install a ceiling with a hatch and make a hole for connecting sewer pipe;
The final stage of the work will be the connection to the cesspool of the sewer pipe.

This technology is also considered universal, it is suitable for both baths and toilets.

Video

For seasonal living in the country or with a small amount of water consumed, it is not necessary to install an expensive treatment plant. The best place for waste disposal will be a do-it-yourself cesspool without pumping. Its design is very simple, but the construction process is laborious.

The layout of the cesspool

Types of cesspools

The simplest and most proven option autonomous sewerage- drain pit. By design, they are of three types:

Sealed containers in which wastewater accumulates. They are environmentally friendly, easy to install, but require constant pumping costs.
A pit without a bottom is arranged to collect all domestic wastewater discharged into the soil.
Septic tank - the design of the structure provides for the sedimentation and purification of polluted water.

Frequent pumping of the drain pit is an expensive service that accompanies the spread of an unpleasant odor. It is possible to completely abandon it only when installing a biological station, but it is quite realistic to reduce the call for vacuum trucks to once every 3-4 years.

Cesspool device without pumping

Absorbing tank without bottom - affordable way autonomous sewage devices, which the owners implement on their own. Its design is made in the form of a well, on the bottom of which a layer of filtration materials is poured. Domestic sewage flows through the drain pipe into the pits, the liquid seeps through the filter at the bottom, and large fractions are retained. Microorganisms in the soil process organic matter from wastewater and disinfect it.

The size of the pit is selected according to water standards per person, which are 150-200 liters per day. The liquid leaves the reservoir after 3 days, so the daily volume is tripled. For a family of 3, a 1.5 cubic meter pit is needed. m.

Attention. Bacteria will not be able to cope with a large volume of water, and there will be a threat of contamination of the soil. With daily consumption of more than 1 cu. m of water, it is necessary to install a septic tank.

Advantages of a drain pit:

simple design;
affordable cost of materials;
quick installation.

Flaws:

bad smell;
environmental threat;
laborious installation by hand.

Choosing a place for a hole

The placement of a facility for collecting wastewater is determined by special rules and regulations. These recommendations allow you to protect water sources, the foundation of the house and green spaces from pollution in the event of an increase in the water level in the drain pit. Sanitary rules define the following distances:

to the reservoir - 30 m:
to the well with sandy soil - 50 m, with clay soil - 20 m;
to trees - 3 m;
at least 5 m to the foundation of the house;
to the border of the neighboring plot - 2 m.

It is important to take into account the relief of the territory, a low-lying area is not suitable for a drain tank. During heavy rains and snowmelt, water will fill the hole. The depth of groundwater is also taken into account, it should be 1 meter lower from the bottom of the reservoir.

Design features of a cesspool on various soils

Waste disposal time depends on bandwidth soil. Sandy or peat soils are characterized by a high rate of liquid absorption, but their filtration qualities are insufficient. Polluted runoff can reach the aquifer and poison it. In this case, part of the bottom and wall of the reservoir is concreted in order to reduce the area through which drains pass.

On the clay soil the opposite situation arises - the liquid slowly seeps into the soil and there is a constantly high water level in the pit. The problem is solved by creating an additional drainage system. Several plastic sewer pipes filled with gravel are buried in the bottom of the pit to a depth of 1 meter. Their upper edge protrudes 1 meter from the bottom of the tank, and the walls are perforated. The design serves at the same time for filtration and removal of drains.

Another method will require additional costs; it involves the construction of a second well nearby, connected to the pit by an overflow. When the water level rises, it will flow into a neighboring structure, and the drainage area will double.

Preparatory work

Having decided on a place for the drive, earthworks begin. This is the first stage in the construction of any type of autonomous sewage system. The pit is dug according to the calculations made for the optimal volume of the cesspool. The depth of the sump should not exceed 3 meters, this will allow, in case of silting, to pump out from the very bottom. The walls of the pit are leveled for the subsequent installation of the selected material.

Advice. You can save on calling an excavator to dig a pit if you do it simultaneously with the construction of the foundation of the house.

Materials for making a pit: pros and cons

To make a cesspool cheap, site owners are ready to use improvised materials: bricks, cinder blocks, tires and boards. If the first two materials are strong enough, then the rest are suitable for temporary construction, since under the action of moisture and chemical reactions quickly fall into disrepair. A high-quality and durable storage tank is built from monolithic concrete, reinforced concrete rings and bricks.

Drainage pit made of reinforced concrete rings

If you can dig the pit yourself, then you will have to order a crane to install heavy rings. The dimensions of the pit must exceed the standard diameter of the rings by 50 cm so that waterproofing can be performed. When installing several products, one must be factory-perforated, specially made for the filtration well. If whole rings are purchased, then you can fill the holes with your own hands. Their diameter is 5-8 cm, and the distance from each other is 30 cm, the holes are staggered.

The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of sand to a depth of 20 cm and a layer of gravel or crushed stone to a height of 20-30. These rocks will become a filter that traps fecal waste in the pit.

The joints of the rings are covered with cement mortar, their outer part is covered with bituminous mastic for waterproofing. A hole is cut in the upper ring for the entrance of the sewer pipe. The pipeline itself is laid in a trench below the soil freezing line. The structure is covered with a concrete floor slab made with a hatch.

Pit made of concrete rings

Storage Pros:

durability;
quick assembly from prefabricated parts;
high performance.

the complexity of installation;
the need for pumping is not completely excluded.

Cesspool made of bricks

The shape of the sump is chosen arbitrarily; square, round and rectangular drives are built. The material used is solid red brick laid on cement mortar. At the bottom of the excavated pit, a pillow of sand 20 cm high is arranged. A formwork of boards is laid on top of it and a concrete screed is poured.

Advice. For better water drainage, before pouring concrete, wells up to 1 meter deep are drilled to wall up perforated pipes.

Brick laying is carried out in two ways - with an interval of half or a quarter of a brick. Thanks to this design, water is discharged evenly. From above, the drive is closed with a concrete slab, which you can make yourself.

drain hole brick

Floor manufacturing

The plate should protrude beyond the perimeter of the pit by 30 cm on each side. The work area is marked with pegs with a stretched rope. A sheet of tin is laid on the pit and covered with plastic wrap. Reinforcing strapping is performed on top of the waterproofing in increments of 20 × 20 cm. When preparing the reinforcement, a frame is inserted that bounds the hatch. Installed ventilation tube for venting gases. Planed boards are taken for formwork and placed along a stretched rope. Finished construction poured with concrete, rammed and leveled. The manhole cover is made simultaneously with the stove or they buy metal. After the concrete has set, the tinplate is removed in the place left for the cover.

Concrete cover

Advice. During the 4 weeks while the concrete is curing, it is not recommended to carry out floor loads.

The plate must be airtight and rise above ground level. This will avoid catastrophic filling during rain. V winter period the manhole cover is insulated so that the pit does not freeze.

affordable price;
simple installation;
good outflow of liquid into the ground.

siltation of the walls;
destruction of bricks under the influence of effluents.

How to extend the life of a cesspool

The technology of an eternal cesspool should include several prerequisites:

the use of strong and durable material that is not susceptible to corrosion;
the use of anaerobic bacteria that contribute to the decomposition of organic waste;
a two-part pit device, after filling the first storage tank, the liquid flows down the pipe into the second one, the volume of the pit doubles.

A structure that meets all requirements will be a two-chamber cesspool made of monolithic concrete. The walls of the structure are poured over the formwork, an overflow pipe is installed in the partition at an angle. The outer part of the walls is treated with bituminous mastic to protect against moisture. A mixture of crushed stone and gravel is used as a filter layer in a bottomless storage tank. The pit is covered with a concrete slab with a hatch and a ventilation pipe.

Addendum biological preparations reduces the formation of odor and accelerates the process of decomposition of organic matter. Anaerobic bacteria do not tolerate low temperatures so that they do not die in winter, the pit needs to be insulated. Microorganisms are sensitive to the composition of effluents, so chemicals should not be poured into the sewer.

A cesspool is necessary for suburban areas; making it yourself will allow you to arrange a structure with the lowest financial costs.

Heating : ◄

professional installation

Name accommodation in a country house or in country house convenient and comfortable only if there is a properly equipped sewerage system on the site. Modern market building materials makes it possible to install a sewage tank of any design, providing a choice of several options for solving the problem. Of course, factory sewer storage tanks and kits for their manufacture will require additional financial investments, however, an inexpensive, workable system can be made with your own hands. For this, various materials are suitable, including those left after the construction of the house. The decision to deal with the issue on your own will bring another bonus - by choosing the design of a septic tank or a cesspool without pumping out wastewater, you can also save money during the operation of the facility. Let us consider in more detail the process of building two simple, but reliable and workable structures.

Device, advantages and disadvantages of cesspools

The cost of factory treatment facilities is still quite high. A good alternative to such structures are homemade septic tanks and cesspools.

The cesspool is the most in a simple way arrangement local sewerage, due to which this type of sewage storage is most widely used in suburban areas. Making a waste tank of this type is quite simple. To do this, at a depth below the freezing level of the soil, a tank is installed or built, to which a sewer line is drawn from all drain points located in the house. After filling the pit with sewage, they are pumped out and removed from the site using sewage trucks. For this, the design of the storage tank provides a hatch, which is also used to monitor the level of wastewater.

Depending on the design, all cesspools are divided into two types:

storage facilities without a bottom;
sealed waste containers.

The first is a filtration type design. Once in the cesspool, wastewater is absorbed into the soil and, with the help of microorganisms, is processed into water and the simplest organic compounds. The coarse fraction is deposited at the bottom of the reservoir, where it is also exposed to bacteria, turning into sludge and liquid. In order for the decomposition process to take place more actively, they add to the drains special means with biologically active ingredients. Due to the absorption capacity of the soil and the processing of sewage by bacteria, the volume of wastewater in the reservoir is many times reduced. The remaining sediments are rarely pumped out, so structures of this type are also called cesspools without pumping.

Construction of a cesspool without pumping

The choice of location for the installation of filtration-type sewer systems is subject to very high requirements, for non-compliance with which administrative and even criminal liability is provided. In addition, with a high occurrence of groundwater and a daily volume of effluents of more than 1 cubic meter, the installation of leaky sewage facilities is prohibited.

Sewer tanks of the second type are sealed systems, therefore, they require regular use of the services of sewage trucks. However, such pits are the safest in terms of environmental impact and in some cases represent the only possible variant arrangement of the sewerage of a country house or a summer residence.

When constructing a sealed cesspool, one must be prepared for the regular use of sewage trucks

Advantages of cesspools without pumping:

a simple design allows you to build a storage tank with your own hands;
possibility of using various materials for construction;
increased interval between pumping wastewater;
low cost and low operating costs.

It would seem that the design of filtration cesspools should not have alternatives, right? In fact, this option has significant drawbacks, which can sometimes cancel all the advantages:

high requirements for the choice of installation site;
decrease in absorption capacity over time;
the possibility of unpleasant odors in the area;
environmental hazard;
the use of special bacterial compounds makes it impossible to use chemical detergents.

Skeptics who claim that cesspools of the type rustic toilet have been used for a very long time and have not brought any harm to the environment during this time, I would like to recall the multiple increase in water consumption in everyday life. This factor is complemented by a high content of household chemicals in wastewater, so such arguments can be considered insignificant.

The device and features of septic tanks without pumping

Having spent a little money, you can build a more advanced drainage system - a septic tank. Its difference from a simple sewage pit is the presence of several tanks designed for processing sewage by anaerobic bacteria. During the decomposition of organic waste, they are transformed into a homogeneous mass and the fetid odor is neutralized. V modern systems the possibilities of biological processing and gravitational settling are complemented by forced post-treatment methods. The use of bioloads and biofilters allows filtering up to 95% of wastewater. Unlike a cesspool, an anaerobic process takes place in septic tanks, due to which all bottom sediment is processed into sludge and liquid.

The presence of several chambers allows the use of an anaerobic method of wastewater treatment with their subsequent withdrawal to the filtration well

Dividing the sewer tank into several tanks allows you to install an overflow system. Thanks to her, the drains go through several stages of purification, which make it possible to obtain water at the outlet of the device suitable for watering the garden and other household needs. If there is no need for this, then the excess liquid is simply diverted into the ground, equipping the filter bottom in the last chamber.

Just like a cesspool, a septic tank can be built with your own hands. Of course he has more complex structure, however, no expensive materials are required for its manufacture.

Having decided to install a septic tank on your site, you get a lot of advantages:

no unpleasant odor due to hermetic design;
you can completely do without the services of a sewer, using the sludge residue as a fertilizer for the garden;
the risk of pollution of groundwater by sewage is greatly reduced;
the multi-stage cleaning system works effectively for a long time, providing a constant sewer throughput;
A septic tank is a structure that practically does not change the ecological balance of the area.

The disadvantages of this type of treatment facilities include:

complicated design, involving the installation of several chambers, overflow and filtration systems;
the need for complete tightness of the structure;
higher construction cost compared to a cesspool.

As you can see, the disadvantages of the septic tank are few and are associated with the complexity of the design, which ultimately leads to an increase in the cost of construction. As for operating costs, they are considered insignificant.

Pros and cons of pumping

The existence of two parallel designs of cesspools and septic tanks, one of which is a storage type system, and the second is a filtration type, gives rise to many disputes about the cost of operation and efficiency of use. To eliminate any speculation and rumors, we will try to give a comparative analysis of the positive and negative aspects associated with the regular removal of wastewater from the site.

Advantages of sewer tanks with wastewater pumping:

softer requirements for the choice of location for the installation of sewage facilities;
high environmental friendliness of structures allows to comply with all environmental and sanitary legislation;
long service life without the need to transfer the sewer storage tank to a new location;
absence of unpleasant odors associated with the disposal of processed wastewater into the ground;
there is no need to use special preparations necessary for biological processing and filtration;
the possibility of using household chemicals of any type.

One of the disadvantages of pits without pumping out is that not all improvised materials can be used in their manufacture.

Disadvantages of systems with pumping:

complication of the design of sewage tanks associated with the removal of liquid into the ground;
it is necessary to ensure the tightness of the structure during operation;
the impossibility of using chemical detergents in everyday life;
the need for bioload;
increase in the cost of construction;
higher requirements for building materials.

When deciding on the installation of a particular sewer facility, first of all, it is necessary to proceed from the requirements of environmental and sanitary legislation. The opportunity to save is not always justified, especially when it comes to the health of others.

Cesspool from a barrel that does not require pumping out wastewater

For the manufacture of a cesspool without pumping, an ordinary plastic barrel is suitable

With a small amount of wastewater or irregular use of sewage great option storage tank is a plastic or metal barrel. When choosing a tank to connect to the toilet, you should give preference to the product as much as possible bigger size, because sooner or later it will be necessary to remove the accumulation of non-decomposable residues. Of course, in a humid, aggressive environment, a plastic tank that does not rot or corrode will be more resistant. Nevertheless, you can get by with a simple 200-liter metal barrel, for example, from under fuels and lubricants.

Preparatory activities

At the initial stage, it is necessary to determine the daily amount of wastewater. It should be understood that for a large volume of liquid household waste, you will need a tank that can hold several cubic meters of waste, equipped with an opening for removing sludge. If you want to make drainage from the kitchen sink, washbasin or washing machine installed in the country, then a small capacity will be enough.

Next, choose a place to install a sewer tank that will meet all the requirements of regulatory organizations and ensure safe operation. sewer system. In addition, it is necessary to make a small drawing indicating the depth of the pit, the points of entry into the tank of sewage pipelines, design features filter layer.

Tools and materials

For the manufacture of a sewage tank without pumping out, it is necessary to prepare the following materials and tools:

metal or plastic barrel;
angular sanding machine(Bulgarian);
electric drill and a set of drills;
shovel;
coupling and branch pipe for inserting a sewer pipe into a container;
sanitary sealant;
rolled geotextile (non-woven fabric);
small crushed stone and gravel.

Remember that a small sewer tank is more prone to freezing in winter time than sewage facilities designed for several cubic meters of wastewater. This, as well as the fact that disposal occurs due to the absorption of liquid into the ground, forces us to strictly comply with the installation conditions in terms of deepening the structure below the level to which the ground freezes.

Instructions for making a cesspool from a barrel with your own hands

Scheme of installation of a cesspool from a barrel. The drainage layer ensures the absorption of wastewater into the ground

A drain system without the need for pumping, made from an ordinary barrel, is a special case of a drainage well. To install the tank, you will need a small pit, which can be dug out in a few hours. Its width is chosen based on the need for a 20-cm gap between the walls of the pit and the barrel, and the depth should ensure that the tank is installed below the freezing point of the soil, taking into account the thickness of the lower drainage layer (this parameter is taken equal to 50 cm or more). For example, if frost reaches a depth of 1.5 m, and the height of the barrel is 1.2 m, then the depth of the pit should be at least 3.2 m (1.5 m + 1.2 m + 0.5 m).

When choosing a place for future construction, they comply with the rules and regulations for the installation of filtration wastewater facilities, trying to maintain a minimum distance from the drain point. The phased implementation of the work will make it possible not to miss a single detail and avoid installation errors.

Drainage holes are made in the barrel. If you use a plastic container, then they should be staggered at a distance of 15–20 cm from each other.
How to make proper drainage holes Too dense a network of drainage holes can reduce the strength of the tank, so this is not recommended.

As a rule, drilling with a diameter of 12 - 15 mm is sufficient for the normal operation of the structure. At the same time, not only the walls, but also the bottom of the tank should be covered with a drainage network. V metal barrel the bottom can be removed, and instead of a drill, use a grinder, cutting grooves up to 10 cm long in the same way.
Common Mistake - Too Big Holes
A pipe is mounted on the lid of the barrel for connecting the sewer. Its diameter must correspond to the size of the pipes that are used for the drain line. The junctions are processed silicone sealant, which is applied both from the inside and outside of the structure.
Installation of a branch pipe for connecting a sewer pipe
To protect the drainage holes from soil particles, the barrel is wrapped with non-woven geotextile. This material perfectly passes water and is able to perform protective, filtering and drainage functions for a long time.
Secure the geotextile using synthetic cord or adhesive tape. In this case, the inlet pipe is left open.
A 50-centimeter layer of crushed stone is poured at the bottom of the pit, and for a thin-walled plastic container add 5–10 cm of gravel or screenings over the drainage.
Installing a tank in a hole. It should be noted that drainage holes not protected by geotextiles quickly become clogged.
Install the tank, orienting its outlet pipe towards the sewer line.
Using a coupling, connect the drain pipe to the barrel.
The sewer connection can be made not only through the top, but also from the side. In this case, the cover can be used as a hatch for pumping out the bottom sediment.
The space between the tank and the walls of the pit is filled with crushed stone and the structure is covered with soil.

In a similar way, you can build a drain pit connected to a toilet installed in the country. The only thing that is needed in this case is to cut a vertical pipe into the lid of the barrel that goes to the surface. This is necessary for the periodic pumping of non-degradable waste.

Video: cesspool from a barrel at their summer cottage

How to build a septic tank in the country

No matter how big the cesspool is, over time its filtration and absorption capacity decreases due to particles of grease and dirt that clog the drainage pores. You can avoid these shortcomings and practically avoid pumping by installing a septic tank in the country. A simple, and most importantly, durable and efficient design can be built from concrete rings, which have a very affordable price.

Design and calculation

Schematic representation of a three-chamber septic tank

Starting construction, determine the volume of sedimentation tanks of the structure. To determine this parameter, you need to know the amount of wastewater that is generated in the country per day. It is not necessary to accurately measure this value, it is enough to take a consumption of 150 liters per family member and add the water consumption of each piece of household appliances connected to the sewerage system.

The volume of the receiving tank must contain three times the volume of the daily sewage discharge. For a family of four, a primary chamber of about 2.5 cubic meters will be required. meters, that is, almost three standard concrete rings with a height of 890 mm and a diameter of 1 m. When building a septic tank, you can use ready-made drawings and diagrams. If they do not suit you with something, when compiling your project, do not forget about the correct ratio of the dimensions of the structure and the need to ensure the complete tightness of the receiving chamber.

Photo gallery: drawings of the future design

Diagram of a septic tank made of concrete rings Drawing of a septic tank from concrete rings Drawing of a septic tank from concrete rings Drawing of a septic tank from concrete rings

Tools and materials

For the manufacture of a 3-chamber septic tank you will need:

concrete rings - 9 pcs.;
covers with hatches - 3 sets;
segments of sewer pipes with a diameter of 110 mm;
cement;
crushed stone;
sand;
reinforcement or steel bar;
waterproofing;
shovels and buckets;
a container for preparing a solution;
perforator.

How to make a septic tank from concrete rings

Using the services of an excavator or asking friends or relatives for help, you need to dig a pit. Its size should ensure the possibility of applying waterproofing to the outer walls of the structure.
Preparation of the pit for the installation of concrete rings
The bottom of the pit is leveled and compacted, after which a shock-absorbing cushion is constructed. To do this, a 30-cm layer of sand is poured and carefully compacted, after which it is additionally watered.
At a distance of at least 5–7 cm from the bottom of the pit, an armored belt is installed, after which a concrete base for two chambers is poured.
If it is possible to purchase rings made with a bottom, use it. This will reduce construction time and ensure good sealing of the bottom.
Installation of concrete tanks
After the concrete has set, the rings of the first two chambers are installed using a crane or winch. To increase the tightness of the structure, a layer is applied to the upper cut of the lower ring. cement-sand mortar, and the rings themselves after installation are additionally fixed with metal plates. This will avoid displacement or destruction of the elements of the septic tank during soil movements.
Tanks are located at a distance of no more than 1 m from each other.
The third chamber is a filtration well, so perforated rings are used for it. In addition, a drainage cushion is arranged under the last tank, for which the bottom is covered with a layer of crushed stone with a thickness of at least 50 cm.
Installation of perforated rings of the seepage well
After mounting all the chambers, an overflow system is mounted, for which holes are made in the side walls of the tanks with a perforator. The pipe that connects the first and second chamber is installed 20 cm below the entry point of the sewer line. The place where the overflow enters the third container should be another 20 cm lower.
Installation of concrete floors of tanks
All joints of the rings and the passage of pipes are carefully sealed with cement mortar, and after it dries, bituminous mastic is additionally applied. The junction points are processed both inside the septic tank and outside, ensuring complete tightness of the structure. There is no need to seal the joints in the last chamber, since its function is to divert treated effluents into the ground.
pledge correct operation septic tank is a reliable waterproofing of tanks
Manholes are installed on the covers of the tanks, after which the septic tank is covered with soil.

With a large number of drains, the septic tank is connected to the filtration fields. They are a system of perforated pipes installed under a slope in a sand and gravel layer. Moving by gravity from the last chamber of the septic tank, the water undergoes additional purification. The main thing is that the distance from the filtration fields to groundwater is at least 2 m, otherwise the requirements of environmental and sanitary legislation will be violated.

The use of biopreparations allows the use of biological products to repeatedly increase the efficiency of the septic tank and reduce the contamination of the cesspool with fatty deposits. The bacteria that they contain actively process effluents into water and a small amount of bottom sediment. Microorganisms exterminate sewage so effectively that they can even be used to restore the drainage properties of cesspools. The only drawback is that such products do not work well at temperatures below 4 ° C. In this case, you can use special chemicals.

Bioactivators and care products for septic tanks and cesspools

It should be remembered that when using biologically active substances, the ingress of ordinary household chemicals into drains is unacceptable. For washing dishes and other household needs, special preparations should be used with the indication "Bio" on the package.

If the septic tank or cesspool has not been used for a long time, then the drains can be pumped out with a conventional drainage pump, using the liquid processed by bacteria as a fertilizer for the garden or vegetable garden.

It should be remembered that a specially equipped sewage facility is not a garbage container. Materials of inorganic origin, construction and household waste do not rot, so they will pollute the treatment plant, reducing its performance. Use the sewer for its intended purpose and it will repay you with cost savings and reliable, long-term operation.

By installing a cesspool or a septic tank in the country, they get comfort and convenience comparable to living conditions in a well-maintained city apartment. Due to the simple design, treatment facilities of this type are available for do-it-yourself installation, which avoids large financial expenses during construction and during operation. Nevertheless, it is not worth saving if the installation of sewage tanks carries the risk of environmental pollution.

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When building a private house away from the sewer, the question arises: how to organize the storage and disposal of wastewater. Cesspool is designed to solve this problem. There are two main types of sewage pits: a sealed (or waterproofed) pit and a pit without a bottom (drainage). The sealed pit does not let wastewater into its environment and is designed for areas with sandy soil, it is also designed with a large (more than 1 cubic meter per day) flow volume.

To clean the waterproofed pit twice a month, a special sewage pumping machine is called. The cost of use is expensive. With a small volume of waste water profitable solution there will be a construction of a cesspool without a bottom, such a drainage pit does not require pumping. It is quite simple to design it with your own hands, which will save a lot of money.

Requirements

Sanitary standards for the placement of a cesspool drainage pit on the site

It is necessary to carefully consider the choice of the location of the cesspool, since in case of violation of sanitary standards, administrative liability is threatened. The pit should not be located outside the developer's land.

For its construction, a flat surface is chosen, with a hilly terrain, the lowlands of the site are chosen. It is desirable that the pit has access to a sewage machine for pumping out in case of overflow with waste. More precise placement instructions:

4-5 meters from a residential building.
3 meters from the fence, road, trees.
At least 25 meters from a well, well, spring.
30 meters from the nearest body of water.

Depending on the type of soil on which the waste pit is located, the regulated distance to sources of drinking water varies. When placed on sandy soils, it is allowed to build a cesspool no closer than 50 meters to the wells. With clay - from 20 meters.

Pit volume

To calculate the volume of the waste pit, it is necessary to take into account the number of people living in the house. The capacity is calculated based on the fact that one person consumes 170 liters of water per day. Thus, for three people, a sewage pit with a volume of 10 cubic meters.

As experience shows, if the pit is equipped with a good drainage system or located on sandy soil, a smaller volume of 6-7 cubic meters is quite enough. If you dig a hole with your own hands, it is better to think over the reserve volume in advance so that excess drains do not go beyond the drainage hole and pumping is not needed.

Excavation

Earthwork is best started in the middle of summer, with stable dry weather. A pit is being prepared for the future drain pit. Most often, it measures 2 meters high, wide and long (8 cubic meters). You can dig it both with your own hands and with the help of an excavator.

Remove the top layer first fertile soil, it is better to distribute it in the garden. Subsequently, the soil is removed. If the soil around the pit is sandy, you should be wary of the collapse of the walls of the pit. To avoid this, you can prepare wooden shields and temporarily place them with emphasis along the walls of the pit.

After the required depth is reached, it is recommended to leave the pit for two days. The bottom of the cesspool must be at least one meter above the autumn/spring groundwater level. The permissible depth of pits of this type is from 1 to 3 meters.

Drainage

In order for wastewater to quickly leave the pit into the soil and not need to cause pumping, you need to prepare high-quality drainage. First, sand is poured into the bottom of the pit. The thickness of such a layer should be 30 cm. After that, the bottom of the pit is lined with a special synthetic fabric (geotextile), the edges of the fabric should overlap the walls of the pit.

Areas adjacent to each other are sewn together. A layer of crushed stone 10 - 20 cm thick is poured onto the fabric. The crushed stone is covered with a second layer of synthetic fabric. The edges of the first and second layers are sewn together or smeared with bitumen. In this form, the drainage layer remains until the pit is used.

If a cesspool is created by hand for a country toilet (without pumping out), drainage can be simplified. A layer of sand (30 cm) is poured onto the bottom of the pit, a layer of crushed stone (20 cm) is poured on top of it.

Connecting a sewer pipe

When mounting a sewer pipe, attention should be paid to the height difference between the level of the end of the pipe in the pit and the level of the pipe in the house. It should not be less than a meter. With a small height difference, the drains will stagnate in the pipe, and blockages are possible.

It is best if the pipe extends outside the house underground. The depth of the pipe should be deeper than the layer of winter freezing of the soil, so that during frosts the drains do not freeze, blocking the pipe. If the pipe comes to the surface, it should be properly insulated.

Walls

There are various options for the walls of the cesspool. They are lined with bricks, logs, concrete rings and slate. The choice of wall material depends on the personal desire of the builder.

brick walls

Most often, the walls of the cesspool are lined with bricks. This material has a number of advantages: easy accessibility, ease of laying, strength. It should be noted that not all bricks are equally well suited for arranging a cesspool. silicate brick It has low moisture resistance, so it should never be used for this purpose. What can not be said about ceramic brick, its varieties are completely suitable.

Masonry can be done with your own hands, with ordinary mortar, but the bricklayer must leave small gaps between the sides of the bricks and not fill them with cement. This is necessary to filter the effluents and pass them into the soil surrounding the pit. Outside the masonry, leave 30 cm of space and fill it with broken bricks, gravel and sand to improve the filtration of runoff water.

Log walls / plank walls

In suburban areas, the walls of cesspools for a street toilet (without pumping out) or others are most often covered with shields from boards, bars, or a small log house is made. This material is less durable, but will cost much cheaper than other analogues. You can deal with the design with your own hands.

If it is decided to line the pit with boards, first prepare 4 large bars. The size is better to choose 10x10. They are covered with a special solution - protection against bark beetles and rot (if the bars are made of larch, protective equipment is not needed, this tree has not rotted for decades). Slightly sharpen one end of each bar, this is necessary when attaching the bar to the ground of the day of the pit. The bars must correspond to the depth and have a margin of length to deepen them into the bottom of the pit.

After the bars are placed at the corners of the pit and fixed, you can start mounting the boards. The strongest and thickest boards (if used various sizes) are located closer to the bottom of the pit, later it is at the very bottom that the walls will be subjected to the strongest earth pressure. The boards covered with a special protective solution are nailed so that the bars are inside the wooden box.

It is recommended to maintain a distance of 1-2 cm between the boards to allow runoff water to enter the soil. It is much more convenient to put together a wooden box outside the pit, and then lower it. But this will require the help of a crane or a large number of people, because the mass of the structure will exceed 400 kg.

IMPORTANT! log cabin constructed in a similar way. It should only be noted that the thickness of the logs will significantly reduce the volume of the drain pit. To avoid this, it is necessary to review the volume of the pit.

Walls made of concrete rings

For long-term use of the drain pit, it is best to construct it from concrete rings. Concrete is the most stable and unpretentious material.

It will not work to create a structure from concrete rings with your own hands; you need to take care of their purchase in advance. And also you need to calculate in advance in which ring and where the hole for the pipe will be, it is punched out before immersion. When there are rings, the question arises: how to lower them into the hole (It is worth remembering that the hole should not be completely dug out at the time the first ring is lowered). There is a wide range of possibilities here, from the use of a crane (the mass of one ring reaches 600 kg) and winches, to self-immersion of the rings. A more economical option would be to deal with this problem yourself.

First, a pit is dug with a height equal to the height of one concrete ring. One of its edges is made partially flat (beveled) for a convenient descent of the structure. A ring is rolled up to the beveled edge in such a way that the axis of the ring is directed towards the center of the pit.

With the help of a lever made of a bar (recommended length of 3 m), the ring is turned over, dragged to the sloping edge and gently slides down in a vertical position. For the convenience of descending on a gentle edge, you can lay out boards. After the first ring has taken its position, the builder goes down and begins to deepen the hole from the inside of the ring.

Gradually, with an increase in the depth of the pit, the ring will smoothly settle. After that, the same operation is performed with the next ring. It is very important to monitor the strictly horizontal level of the structure when deepening the pit. After lowering all the rings, holes are drilled in their walls (recommended 5 cm) every 30 cm in the vertical direction, they are intended for the release of sewage.

Slate wall construction

simple and original way- lay out the walls of the drain pit with sheets of slate. This material is not afraid of moisture, but is quite fragile, which must be considered when choosing. The design will not be complicated, you can handle it yourself. Produce a blank of four iron corners (longitudinally bent strip of metal), holes are drilled in them for future fastening.

Four sheets of slate (it is better to choose a special flat one, and not wavy for roofs, wavy is less durable) are lowered into the pit. Next, assembly is carried out: corners are screwed to the slate leaves with self-tapping screws (to two leaves on the opposite side), all slate leaves are screwed together and the frame is ready. Holes are drilled to release wastewater.

This information will be useful not only for landscaping suburban area, but it will also help to design a cesspool for a private house with your own hands. Such a pit will not require pumping, which will significantly save the cost of its construction.

The layout of the cesspool

Types of cesspools

The simplest and most proven option for autonomous sewage is a drain pit. By design, they are of three types:

Sealed containers in which wastewater accumulates. They are environmentally friendly, easy to install, but require constant pumping costs.
A pit without a bottom is arranged to collect all domestic wastewater discharged into the soil.
Septic tank - the design of the structure provides for the sedimentation and purification of polluted water.

Cesspool device without pumping

An absorbent tank without a bottom is an affordable way to build an autonomous sewage system, which the owners implement on their own. Its design is made in the form of a well, on the bottom of which a layer of filtration materials is poured. Domestic sewage flows through the drain pipe into the pits, the liquid seeps through the filter at the bottom, and large fractions are retained. Microorganisms in the soil process organic matter from wastewater and disinfect it.

Attention. Bacteria will not be able to cope with a large volume of water, and there will be a threat of contamination of the soil. With daily consumption of more than 1 cu. m of water, it is necessary to install a septic tank.

Advantages of a drain pit:

simple design;
affordable cost of materials;
quick installation.

Flaws:

bad smell;
environmental threat;
laborious installation by hand.

Choosing a place for a hole

to the reservoir - 30 m:
to the well with sandy soil - 50 m, with clay soil - 20 m;
to trees - 3 m;
at least 5 m to the foundation of the house;
to the border of the neighboring plot - 2 m.

Design features of a cesspool on various soils

The waste disposal time depends on the throughput of the soil. Sandy or peat soils are characterized by a high rate of liquid absorption, but their filtration qualities are insufficient. Polluted runoff can reach the aquifer and poison it. In this case, part of the bottom and wall of the reservoir is concreted in order to reduce the area through which drains pass.

On clay soil, the opposite situation arises - the liquid slowly seeps into the soil and there is a constantly high water level in the pit. The problem is solved by creating an additional drainage system. Several plastic sewer pipes filled with gravel are buried in the bottom of the pit to a depth of 1 meter. Their upper edge protrudes 1 meter from the bottom of the tank, and the walls are perforated. The design serves at the same time for filtration and removal of drains.

Preparatory work

Advice. You can save on calling an excavator to dig a pit if you do it simultaneously with the construction of the foundation of the house.

Materials for making a pit: pros and cons

To make a cesspool cheap, site owners are ready to use improvised materials: bricks, cinder blocks, tires and boards. If the first two materials are strong enough, then the rest are suitable for temporary construction, as they will quickly become unusable under the influence of moisture and chemical reactions. A high-quality and durable storage tank is built from monolithic concrete, reinforced concrete rings and bricks.

Drainage pit made of reinforced concrete rings

Pit made of concrete rings

Storage Pros:

durability;
quick assembly from prefabricated parts;
high performance.

the complexity of installation;
the need for pumping is not completely excluded.

Cesspool made of bricks

Advice. For better water drainage, before pouring concrete, wells up to 1 meter deep are drilled to wall up perforated pipes.

Drainage pit made of bricks

Floor manufacturing

The plate should protrude beyond the perimeter of the pit by 30 cm on each side. The work area is marked with pegs with a stretched rope. A sheet of tin is laid on the pit and covered with plastic wrap. Reinforcing strapping is performed on top of the waterproofing in increments of 20 × 20 cm. When preparing the reinforcement, a frame is inserted that bounds the hatch. A ventilation pipe is installed to remove gases. Planed boards are taken for formwork and placed along a stretched rope. The finished structure is poured with concrete, rammed and leveled. The manhole cover is made simultaneously with the stove or they buy metal. After the concrete has set, the tinplate is removed in the place left for the cover.

Concrete cover

Advice. During the 4 weeks while the concrete is curing, it is not recommended to carry out floor loads.

The plate must be airtight and rise above ground level. This will avoid catastrophic filling during rain. In winter, the manhole cover is insulated so that the pit does not freeze.

affordable price;
simple installation;
good outflow of liquid into the ground.

siltation of the walls;
destruction of bricks under the influence of effluents.

How to extend the life of a cesspool

The technology of an eternal cesspool should include several prerequisites:

the use of strong and durable material that is not susceptible to corrosion;
the use of anaerobic bacteria that contribute to the decomposition of organic waste;
a two-part pit device, after filling the first storage tank, the liquid flows down the pipe into the second one, the volume of the pit doubles.

The addition of biological preparations reduces the formation of odor and accelerates the process of decomposition of organic matter. Anaerobic bacteria do not tolerate low temperatures so that they do not die in winter, the pit needs to be insulated. Microorganisms are sensitive to the composition of effluents, so chemicals should not be poured into the sewer.

A cesspool is necessary for suburban areas; making it yourself will allow you to arrange a structure with the lowest financial costs.

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