How to make a cesspool with your own hands for a private house of brick, concrete or tires. The device and calculation of a cesspool in a private house, how to do it yourself What cesspools are made of

In small settlements there is no general sewerage system. At the same time, the need for safe collection of sewage in a suburban area plays an important role. Do you agree? A well-equipped drain pit in a private house will perfectly cope with the duties of receiving and partial disposal of wastewater.

But is it capable of providing comfort and epidemiological safety to the household? How to make sure that the pit does not cause trouble? These questions should be carefully dealt with before deciding on the device of such a system.

We will also discuss solutions to the problem of wastewater in a suburban area and talk about how to build your own cesspool and what is needed for this. The article contains expert advice, photo and video materials that help to better understand the arrangement of the sewer point on the site.

The operation of a suburban household is associated with the generation of wastewater. Every homeowner is faced with the task of not so much accumulating domestic wastewater as cleaning it. Moreover, a common solution in rural areas is digging under a sewer cesspool old barrel or tank - ineffective.

If the daily volume of wastewater exceeds one cubic meter (1000 l), then the shortcomings will soon manifest themselves as unpleasant odors. Or worse - intestinal infections among households. Finally, a do-it-yourself drain pit from a worn-out keg is illegal in a number of situations.

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A drain pit with a filter bottom (fig. on the left) can only be used for gray drains or for the disposal of water that has come out of a multi-chamber septic tank. To collect brown sewer masses, sealed storage tanks are built (Fig. right)

Porous or silicate brick is not suitable, you need a material made of baked clay. Only baked brick walls are able to withstand mechanical loads from soil movements for years, do not collapse under the constant influence of moisture and do not let it into their own thickness at all.

The best option for a single-chamber brick storage is a fully waterproofed structure, which is periodically emptied by vacuum trucks.

If a drain pit is arranged for the disposal of gray drains coming from a kitchen sink, bath, shower, etc., then a brick structure is arranged with a permeable bottom of the type.

The bottom of the filtering or otherwise absorbing well is filled with a soil filter, composed of layer-by-layer sand, fine, then coarse gravel or crushed stone.

The thickness of the cleaning backfill should be at least 1 m, between its conditional base and the highest groundwater level noted during the rainy season, there should be at least a meter.

In the case of installing a brick sewer structure on sandy loamy soil, the filtration properties of which are insufficient for the free passage of treated effluents, it throughput increase. This is done by forming holes in the lower part of the walls, performed during masonry.

We will analyze the construction of the simplest option - a storage pit for draining waste that does not perform absorption functions. Its bottom and walls will not let the waste mass clarified and disinfected by a soil filter into the environment.

The optimal depth of the pit for the drain pit is 2-2.5 m. There is no need to dig deeper - the hose of the sludge machine will not reach

If there is no centralized sewage system near the house, then the arrangement of a cesspool can be considered as a solution to the problem. In any house where there is a supply of hot and cold water supply, there is a problem of collecting and discharging sewage.

A cesspool is the easiest sewer option in a private or country house, which you can do with your own hands.

Where should the cesspool be located?

To start, need to decide on a location on which the cesspool system will be equipped.

directly on the site adjacent to a private or country house;
arrangement is possible at a distance of at least 10 meters from the foundation of a residential building and other buildings on the backyard territory and to structures located in the neighborhood;

Important! This requirement is based on the fact that with a closer installation of a leaky pit without pumping out, the destruction of the foundations of nearby buildings, as well as their flooding, is possible.

the distance from the pit to the fence is also regulated and must be at least one meter;
depth should not be more than 3 meters. When choosing, you need to take into account the depth of the passage of groundwater;
the pit must be at a certain distance (25 meters) from drinking wells.

Given distance depends on the type of soil in the backyard:

At clay soil- no closer than 20 meters;
With loamy soil - no closer than 30 meters;
With sandy and sandy soil - a cesspool cannot be installed closer than 50 meters from the well.

Do-it-yourself cesspool device

There are two main types of pit arrangement:

sealed;
plain without a bottom.

The option of arranging sewerage in a country or private house is determined by the location of the territory, the daily amount of wastewater and the material capabilities of the owner of the site:

if the daily amount of sewage is not more than one cubic meter, it is possible to build a simple system without a bottom and without pumping. In a pit of this type, effluents partially go into the ground, in which they are cleaned by anaerobic bacteria. An example of this cesspool is the classic rural toilet;
with a large amount of wastewater (more than a cubic meter), the construction of a sealed structure is required, which needs to be pumped out from time to time.

This requirement is explained by the fact that in the absence of a bottom in the pit, waste water passes into the ground and cleaning is carried out by microorganisms located in the depths of the earth. But their cleaning capabilities are not unlimited.

With large amounts of wastewater, microorganisms cannot cope with water purification. In this case, wastewater will begin to pollute the adjacent area and it is possible that they will pass into the water-bearing soil layers with further contamination of the drinking well.

If you need to dispose of a large amount of wastewater, you can consider the arrangement of a septic tank with filtration fields.

Do-it-yourself ordinary sewer

The simplest waste system is done like this:

digging a pit up to two meters deep, two meters wide and up to three meters long;
the walls of the earth are laid or fixed;
a layer of crushed stone is poured down;
a protective cover with a cover is installed on top.

The main advantages of a pit without a bottom:

ease of operation;
low cost of construction and operation;
simple and quick DIY construction.

Disadvantages of a pit without a bottom:

groundwater level must be below the level of the sewage system;
not suitable for sewerage of a large amount of sewage water;
environmentally unsafe;
possible unscheduled filling due to rainwater;
has an unpleasant odor.

Sealed waste pit

A sealed sewage system is a sealed container where water is pumped out through pipes. sewer water. As the tank fills, sewage water must be pumped out with a special machine.

The main advantages of a sealed system:

the installation site does not depend on the type of soil on the site;
does not depend on the passage of groundwater;
environmentally friendly, sewage water does not enter the environment.

Cons of sealed design:

there is a smell if the drive is made in the form of a well;
monthly costs (you need to periodically call a sewage truck for pumping);
relatively high construction cost.

What to build a drain pit with your own hands

Consider different types and ways to design drain systems that you can do yourself. They are conditionally divided into permanent and temporary.

From car tires

If you need a drain system for a toilet in a country house at minimal cost, you can make it yourself using old car tires.

This is a fast and cost effective construction option. sewer pit. The design is pretty simple. A pit is being made, where old tires are stacked one on top of the other. A layer of crushed stone is poured on the bottom of the pit, if desired, the tires are sealed with a clay lock.

Advantages:

if necessary, easily restored;
durability;
speed, simplicity and low cost of construction.

Flaws:

tires rot over time;
the possibility of a negative impact on the environment with a high load on the structure;
rapid siltation with insufficient cleaning and pumping out, as a result, useful area is lost.

From concrete rings

This is another way to quickly build a drain system. Its design is similar to a well. Rings are stacked on top of each other. The connections between them, if desired, are sealed with a cement screed.

By design, a sewer pit made of concrete rings refers more to hermetic structures. That's why you need to pump it regularly. Although there is an option to install a septic tank from concrete rings.

Main advantages:

convenience of the device of a protective cover with the hatch;
durability;
the possibility of building with your own hands;
relatively low cost.

Flaws:

the possibility of an unpleasant odor from the ventilation pipes;
the need for periodic pumping;
laborious installation.

Drainage pit made of bricks

This is the most successful and best option if you need a drain system for a toilet or bath in a country house.

Advantages:

ease of construction - with brick laying for drain pit almost any summer resident will cope;
environmental friendliness - the contents of the drain structure are periodically pumped out by a sewage machine.

Flaws:

siltation. It is possible to prevent silting with the help of constant pumping out of the liquid in the storage tank;
relatively short service life (up to 20 years), as a result of the destruction of bricks in unfavorable conditions of the drain system;
Periodically, an unpleasant odor is likely to form. The use of various preparations that accelerate the processes of waste decomposition and timely pumping out of the drive can help to cope with this.

Construction of a brick pit

First you need to decide on the installation site of the drain pit, observing all the rules and taking into account ease of use.

We choose a design. Given the purpose, a drain brick pit can be rectangular, square or round.

We calculate the required volume, dimensions and prepare the pit for the pit.

At rectangular design, we tilt the bottom towards the installation of the hatch. We pour a sand cushion at the bottom of the pit, with a layer of 20 cm and fill it with cement mortar. You can take a finished reinforced concrete slab of the required size. A cement screed is made on top.

We do wall laying. The optimal thickness of the walls is 30 cm. It is advisable to lay the walls in a checkerboard pattern in half a brick. Laying in a quarter of a brick is possible.

Then, when the walls are ready, you need to process them bituminous mastic or make a clay castle from the outside for better sealing. If necessary, then plaster the inner surface.

Installation of the hatch and ceiling

Then, when the base of the drain pit is ready, we install a ceiling with a hatch. Overlap is required not less than 50 cm close the hole around the perimeter.

In the role of overlap, concrete slabs are chosen or logs are carefully laid. When arranging the cesspool floor, it is necessary to provide a location for the hatch. The hatch is made in the size of 70 cm.

On top of the stele overlap, waterproofing from a film or roofing felt. We cover the waterproofing with a layer of slag or soil measuring 0.5 m.

Attention! To protect against the appearance of a smell from the drain pit and its freezing, the hatch into the pit is installed double. The top cover is located on the surface of the earth, and the other at the level of the ceiling. Appeared space in the bow is filled thermal insulation materials(slag, expanded clay, polystyrene, etc.).

Sewer pit from a barrel

This is an excellent option for arranging do-it-yourself water runoff with natural cleaning of the cesspool with small amounts of runoff (up to 1 cubic meter).

Barrel preparation:

use 200 liter barrel, best of all from a material that does not corrode, we make holes in the wall in a checkerboard pattern for drainage with a drill or grinder. It is desirable to make holes with a distance of 15-25 centimeters;
we tightly fasten a pipe to the bottom of the barrel for connecting a drain pipe. To ensure sealing, you can use silicone sealants. We process the connection area of the pipe with mastic;
we wrap the barrel with geotextile and firmly fasten it with twine. This is necessary to ensure that the tank is protected from soil and other foreign particles entering its structure while maintaining normal drainage.

Installation of a cesspool sewer system:

we make a trench and lay sewer pipes, certainly with a slope;
we prepare a pit with a depth and size slightly higher than the depth of the barrel;
down the pit we fall asleep gravel or gravel with a layer of 20 cm;
we put a barrel on this pillow and connect the drain pipe;
the resulting space between the walls of the pit and the container is filled with gravel or gravel;
We connect the sewer pipe to the installed pipe.

Now the sewer pit for your bath is ready. You can also make a drain hole for the toilet with your own hands.

As an option for arranging a home sewer system, you can consider installing a cesspool concrete drain pit.

Stages of construction of a concrete pit:

Using this technology, you can also make a drain hole for the toilet with your own hands.

Summarizing

There are quite a few options to build a drain cesspool yourself. Choosing a specific solution, taking into account specific conditions and material possibilities. You can also consider installing a septic tank or buying a ready-made kit for arranging a drain pit.

If a person lives in a house, it must have sewerage, since waste products still need to be disposed of somehow. And it's hard to disagree with that, isn't it? The modern industry offers many solutions: from multi-section septic tanks to neat dry closets. But the usual cesspool in a private house is still relevant and in demand.

But, before proceeding with the construction of a cesspool on the site, you will have to weigh the pros and cons. After all, an incorrectly chosen place, and the design of the cesspool itself, subsequently, threatens to turn into many problems. The most common of these is the appearance of an unpleasant odor. We will tell you how to avoid this problem.

In the article, we have collected and summarized information about the types and design features cesspools. In addition, here you can find helpful tips and recommendations on how to choose and build a sewer on the site. The material is accompanied by thematic photos and videos.

A cesspool is perhaps the oldest and simplest type of sewage. It is a depression in the ground in which sewage is accumulated and partially processed.

Any drain contains a certain amount of bacteria that absorb and transform these accumulations. Part of the filtered effluent passes into the underlying soil.

Everything that has not been recycled and has not gone into the underlying layers should be periodically removed from the cesspool so that the container does not overflow.

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Sewerage is one of the most important benefits of civilization. Without sewerage, washing, showering, taking a bath and going to the toilet are accompanied by difficulties and inconveniences. But it is not always possible to connect to a centralized sewer system - it is not available for remote villages, summer cottages and cottage villages. The way out of the problem is the arrangement of their own facilities for the collection, treatment and disposal of wastewater. The simplest and cheapest solution is to build a cesspool without a bottom with your own hands.

How is a cesspool without a bottom

There are two types of cesspools:

sealed;
leaky, without a bottom;

The first are the simplest structures made of concrete, brick or plastic, completely waterproof. They collect liquid and solid waste coming through the sewer pipe. Regularly, on average 1-2 times a month, a sewage machine should pump them out of a sealed drain pit. The services of such specialists are expensive, because some owners are thinking about how to partially dispose of sewage with the help of soil purification.

And most simple option are leaky cesspools. They are a shallow well, assembled from bricks, old tires or concrete rings. They do not have a sealed bottom - either the soil itself is located there, or a filter pad made of sand, gravel or crushed stone. Also, many holes are created in the walls of the cesspool for the purpose of drainage. Through them and the bottom, liquid sewage partially goes into the ground and undergoes natural soil post-treatment. The rest remains in the well and is pumped out by a sewage machine 1-2 times a year.

You may be interested in information about what it looks like

Such a structure is suitable for solving the problem of waste in a country house visited during spring and summer, or for a village house where 1-2 people live. For a large family without a bottom, they are not an effective and environmentally safe solution - in this case, it is preferable to build from several concrete wells.

Advantages and disadvantages of a cesspool without a bottom

Let's briefly consider what is good and bad design of a leaky cesspool. Its advantages include the following.

The extremely low price of the structure compared to the cost of a full-fledged septic tank - both factory-made and home-made, built from rings or monolithic concrete.
Ease of creation - a pit and a trench are dug under the pipe, the walls of the cesspool and the lid are installed, the connection is made. Without any problems, all these activities can be performed independently.
The speed of construction - it is quite possible to equip a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings in a couple of days.
Lower costs compared to sealed cesspool- you can call a sewage truck not every month, but only 1-2 times for a whole year.

Due to its simplicity and maximum cheapness, such a sewer structure has serious drawbacks.

Environmental problems - if this is placed near a source of drinking water, then over time the latter may become unusable - sewage seeping through the soil will poison it with E. coli and other microorganisms. It is possible to drink from such a well, but it is not safe.
Possibility of conflict with neighbors - those who live near you are unlikely to enjoy the existence of a potential source of pollution. But, as practice shows, this is a problem only for well-maintained cottage settlements and garden partnerships - in other places, most likely, neighbors have the same or even simpler facilities for collecting sewage.
Problems with SES. If the sanitary and epidemiological service comes to your site with a check, then it may consider that you have a cesspool with seepage of sewage into the soil as a violation of the norms, with corresponding consequences.
The fragility of work - it should be understood that such a cesspool is unable to function for a long time - over time, the soil around it will silt up and stop passing water in the same volume. As a result, the structure will fill up with drains faster, so you will have to move it to a new location or replace it with a full-fledged septic tank. Or more often turn to the services of vacuum cleaners.

Choosing a location for the cesspool

It was mentioned several times above that a cesspool without a bottom is not the best solution from an environmental and health point of view. But a competent choice of a place for its construction will minimize possible risks and avoid poisoning of reservoirs and wells.

It is worth saying that the current sanitary and building standards do not give a clear answer to the question of the admissibility or, conversely, the inadmissibility of building a cesspool without a bottom. Below are some excerpts from various documents.

So, an unsealed cesspool, if possible, should be created on soils with good water permeability and in places where the groundwater level is at least 1 meter below the bottom.

The list below gives the minimum distances between a similar structure and various objects:

from the cesspool to the drinking well - at least 50 m;
to the reservoir - at least 30 m;
to trees and gardens - at least 5 m;
to the road or the border of the site - from 2 to 4 m;
to residential buildings - 5 m.

Advice! Before starting construction, familiarize yourself with how the facilities for collecting sewage from the nearest neighbors are arranged. Also, if the case takes place in the country, discuss this issue with the chairman of the partnership. This will avoid unnecessary conflicts and reduce the likelihood of a visit from the sanitary service to your site.

Construction of a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings

The most popular material for self-arrangement cesspools without a bottom, drainage wells and septic tanks are concrete rings. They have sufficient strength for such a structure, their installation does not take much time, and the low price makes these products affordable for any household. The process of making a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings with your own hands is given below in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Important! Before starting excavation work, determine how many concrete rings, and what size you need. For convenience, the main characteristics of the most popular products are summarized in the table.

Table. Dimensions, weight and volume of concrete rings made in accordance with GOST 8020-90.

Name	Inner diameter, m	External diameter, m	Height, m	Weight, kg	Internal volume, m3
COP10.3	1	1,16	0,29	≈200	≈0,3
COP10.6	1	1,16	0,59	≈400	≈0,62
COP10.9	1	1,16	0,89	≈600	≈0,94
COP15.6	1	1,68	0,59	≈660	≈1,3
COP15.9	1,5	1,68	0,89	≈1000	≈1,97
COP20.6	2	2,2	0,59	≈970	≈2,24
COP20.9	2	2,2	0,89	≈1480	≈3,38

Step 1. Start the construction of a cesspool without a bottom by determining the place where it will be located. This is discussed in more detail in the previous section of the article.

Step 2 At the selected location, mark and define the boundaries of the future pit. Its diameter is made 20-30 cm larger than the outer diameter of the concrete ring.

Step 3 Start the actual extraction of the soil. If the cesspool is supposed to be shallow, and there is enough time, then earthwork can be done manually. It is advisable to do this in pairs - one digs, and the other lifts the extracted soil up. The work is greatly facilitated when using a bucket with a strong rope and a garden wheelbarrow (or walk-behind tractor).

Important! If, when digging a pit by hand, it turns out that the soil is prone to crumbling, then for reasons of your own safety, work should be stopped immediately. Otherwise, there is a risk of suddenly being covered with earth. In such situations, you will have to involve an excavator.

Step 4 Regularly measure the depth of the pit with a tape measure. For cesspools without a bottom, this depth does not exceed 3 m. Also remember that there must be a distance of at least 1 m (preferably more) between sewer drains and groundwater.

Step 5 Delivery of concrete rings is usually carried out by the manufacturer, while they are brought on a truck with a crane. Check the availability of all ordered products and their quality.

Step 6 With the help of a crane-manipulator, immerse the first concrete ring into the pit.

The ring is lowered into the pit

Important! For better fixation of the rings with each other, apply on their ends cement mortar before installing a new product.

Step 7 In the same way, put the second and subsequent rings on the first ring. At the same time align them relative to each other.

Step 8 Complete the laying of concrete products with the installation of the upper round slab, in which a hole is cut out for the hatch.

Step 9 In loamy conditions, effective drainage will require a large contact area. If you live in an area where the soil does not absorb water well, drill a series of medium-sized drainage holes in the bottom of the cesspool. Their total area should reach 10% of total area the inner surface of the building.

Important! Often, a cushion of crushed stone with a thickness of 30 to 50 cm is poured into the bottom of such a cesspool. Its use allows at least a little cleaning of the sewage that goes into the ground. At the same time, the filler of such a pillow requires regular replacement or washing, which is not the most pleasant and easy job. Each homeowner must decide for himself what is more important for him - the ability not to pollute the surrounding land too much and ground water or no need to go down to the cesspool and replace the crushed stone filter pad. Instead of the latter, you can use ordinary sand.

Step 11 Fill the space between the walls of the pit and the concrete rings with earth or sand.

Step 10 Complete the arrangement of a cesspool without a bottom made of concrete rings by connecting a sewer pipe and installing a hatch.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Video - Cesspool

Construction of a cesspool without a brick bottom

Another, no less popular option for a cesspool is a brick structure. It should be understood that it will require more time and effort than the construction of concrete rings. But if you have a lot of unused bricks left on your site after building a house, a fence or a barn, then it makes sense to put them into action and make a cesspool without a bottom completely with your own hands, without involving third-party people and construction equipment. It will help you in this matter. step-by-step instruction with photographs below.

Step 1. The construction of a brick cesspool, like any other sewer structure, start with earthworks - choose a place and start digging a pit of the appropriate size.

Important! The presence of a simple lifting device will greatly facilitate the process of extracting soil from the pit.

Step 2 Check the depth and diameter of the pit with a tape measure.

Step 3 Get rid of the earth excavated during the construction of the pit. At the same time, leave a part of it for the subsequent backfilling of the cover of the structure.

Step 4 At the bottom of the pit, build a flat ring of bricks, as in the image below. It will play the role of a kind of foundation under the walls of the cesspool.

Step 5 Proceed to laying the lower part of the walls of the brick cesspool. If you have not previously dealt with such material, then the construction of this structure will be a good practice for you, during which you will gain basic skills in working with bricks.

Important! silicate bricks they absorb water well and at the same time gradually collapse. If you want the cesspool to last longer, replace them with ceramic ones.

Step 6 Continue laying and climb higher and higher, to the edge of the pit. Fill the space between its walls and the brick with sand - it absorbs water well and partially filters it before it enters the ground.

Step 7 Finish laying the walls of the cesspool of bricks, not reaching a little to the surface of the earth.

Step 8 Lead the sewer pipe out of the house into the cesspool.

Step 9 Reinforce the pit with metal corner installed as shown in the image below. Instead, you can use wooden beam, but the latter will not last too long - over time, the material in an aggressive environment will begin to break down and rot.

Step 10 Fold the same flat ring of brick on top as at the bottom of the cesspool.

Step 11 Seal the cesspool on top with a concrete slab, prefabricated or poured on site. Do not forget about the hole for the hatch, through which sewage will be regularly pumped out.

A cesspool without a bottom is a quick and economical solution to the problem of sewage disposal. But, if possible, replace it over time with a full-fledged septic tank produced at the factory or.

Today, a person lives in an era of the existence of all kinds of amenities, and for many residents, especially children and youth, it seems that these amenities have always existed. These amenities include a sewer system.

Being in the city, we cannot even imagine life without a central sewerage system, and in fact, in many settlements of our country, such systems are not available. As a result, residents are constructing local sewer pits for a specific one house or several residential buildings. In this article, we will get acquainted with the process of independently arranging a sewer pit in a private house.

Types of pits

Sealed sewer pit

Our country is large and the soils are different, and the sewer pit is a depression in the ground for several meters. Therefore, there are many laws that prohibit or allow the construction of certain types of sewer pits in various conditions.

Sewer pits differ in the material of manufacture, cleaning methods and other parameters. Most experts divide sewer pits into two types:

Leaky sewer pit. For natural drainage, soil is used, or a cushion of crushed stone, which is not filled with cement screed or other material that does not allow water to pass through.
Sealed sewer. This type of pit is used in places where groundwater flows at a shallow depth, and creating a pit without a bottom can lead to harmful substances from the sewer entering the groundwater. The latter will lead to danger for the flora and fauna.

Due to the danger of soil contamination, in some places the law prohibits the construction of sewer pits without a bottom, permission is given only for sealed pits. An airtight pit is the same as a filling well that does not allow water to pass through, only instead of filling clean water, such a pit will be filled with sewage.

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Read about the technology of cleaning the well with your own hands in

Choosing the right place

Once you have decided that you need to make a sewer pit, go around your site and choose the location of its location.

From right choice place depends, firstly, safety for humans and the environment, and secondly, ease of maintenance. Approach this issue responsibly and consider the following factors:

- Remoteness. The sewer pit should be located at a certain distance from residential buildings, as well as from the place where the fence takes place pure water. When making a pit without a bottom, it must be located at a distance of 20-30 meters from the well or well and the living quarters. If a sealed pit is used, it can be located 5 meters from the same structures. Compliance with these factors will help to avoid getting harmful substances v drinking water and unpleasant odors in the apartment.

Important condition: the distance of sewer pits from residential buildings and places of water intake should be 5-30 meters, depending on the type of pit.

Availability. No matter how large the sewer pit is, there will come a time when it will need to be cleaned. For this case, your pit should be in a place accessible to the access of sewage equipment. And do not listen to the talk that some of your friends have been using the septic tank for 10 years and the pit has never been filled, you still have to clean the pit.

Construction stages

Before starting the construction of the pit, it is necessary to make calculations and determine the required volume of future sewage. These calculations are simple, but depend on several factors:

Temporary housing. If you are going to build a sewer in places of temporary or seasonal residence, for example, in a country house, you can calculate the volume using the formula 0.5 cubic meters per tenant. That is, if 4 people live, this figure will be 2 cubes.
Permanent home. In case of continuous use of water, dishwasher and washing machine, other water-consuming elements, the formula will be different - from 1.5 to 2 cubic meters per tenant. That is, with the same four tenants, the required volume will increase to 6-8 cubic meters.

Advice from experienced builders: when calculating the volume of the pit, it should be borne in mind that its depth should be no more than 3 meters. Otherwise, the sewage equipment will not reach the bottom, as a result of which a thick residue will accumulate in the pit.

On this preparatory work ends and you can proceed to the direct construction of the sewer pit. The process itself consists of four stages:

How to make a porch in a private house with your own hands:

. After the calculations of the volume, you will already know what size you need to prepare the pit. Please note that from above the container will overlap from above, so add about half a meter to the depth.
The device of the sewer pit. This is the most important and crucial moment. You need to choose which type of container you will use:
- - Ordinary unsealed pit. This option is only suitable for non-permanent residential buildings.
Scheme of a sewer pit from tires
- - Tire device. It is common in rural areas, since the price of old tires is low, and in some cases it is possible to purchase them for free. When laying tires one on top of the other, the joints must be smeared with bitumen for tightness, and the bottom can be filled concrete screed, as a result - the finished container.
- - Brickwork. A more expensive and laborious type of container is brickwork. Round or rectangular walls are laid out along the perimeter (as convenient), the bottom can be left from the ground or poured with a concrete screed.
Sewer pit made of concrete rings
Reinforced concrete rings. The inconvenience of concrete rings is that for installation it will be necessary to call a crane, since they cannot be installed manually. However, the process itself will be much faster than the previous type of device. With the bottom, you can do the same as with the above proposed option.

Important point: containers made of bricks and reinforced concrete rings are treated on the outside and inside with a moisture-resistant coating. Inside - with bitumen, outside - clay barrier walls are created.

plastic storage

Metal and plastic drives. The most convenient types of sewer pits are ready-made metal or plastic containers. You will not have difficulty finding such containers - they can be purchased at garden and home stores. The volumes of such containers are different - from 1 to 10 cubic meters. metal containers to increase the service life, it is necessary to treat it with anti-corrosion agents.
Plastic containers, protected around the perimeter concrete walls to eliminate the likelihood of deformation, and are also fixed with cables to the ground.
Installation and supply of pipes. At this stage, from the living quarters, sewage pipe, the preferred option is plastic pipe 100 mm in diameter. In addition to this pipe, it is necessary to make a gas outlet so that gases do not accumulate in the sewer pit.
Cover installation. The final stage of the device of the sewer pit is its overlap. Most often, reinforced concrete slabs are used in the form of overlapping, combining strength and durability. Some craftsmen cover with iron sheets, but their service life is noticeably shorter than that of the first option. The joints of the plate and container must be sealed. As a sealant, you can use the same bitumen or liquid clay.

Cleaning methods

Science does not stand still, and even in such a matter as cleaning sewers, progress is noticed. Until recently, there was only one way to clean a septic tank - mechanical. Today, two more species have been added to them - chemical and biological.

Mechanical cleaning of the sewer pit

mechanical way. It consists in pumping out sewage with sewers. It is carried out quickly and at a cost it doesn’t “hit the pocket” much. But there is a big downside.

In the case of a mechanical method, it is not cleaned drainage system the bottom of your sewer pit, as a result of which it will be filled each subsequent time faster than the previous one.

Chemical and biological way. If you are interested in deep cleaning and disinfection, use a chemical or biological cleaning method. As a result of the use of chemicals and biological bacteria, there is:

decomposition of large compounds;
wastewater disinfection;
cleaning the drainage system;
decrease in precipitation;
elimination of odors.

Of the chemicals used for sewer cleaning, four groups can be distinguished:

Chemical cleaning of the sewerage system

ammonium compounds;
nitrogen fertilizers;
formaldehyde;
bleaching powder.

Biological preparations are represented by a fairly wide choice, for example, "Vodogray", UNIBAC others.

difference biological preparations from chemical is their harmlessness. They do not cause damage to the animal, plant world and the container itself, located in the sewer pit.

The result of the work carried out will please you long time. Agree - the conveniences in the house are much preferable to the amenities in the yard, especially in our harsh climate.

The presented types of sewer systems can be built in almost any area with minimal cost Money, and the alternation of cleaning methods will allow to contain sewer system in good condition for quite a long period of time.