Somehow I missed this thread. I must say - completely undeserved. In principle, many will say that constructively, the cube, as they say, "does not affect the speed." However, the constructive cube sometimes has a very significant impact on the convenience of work. And in some processes (for example, when working with grain mash) it can also affect the overall speed of the process.
Consider the main variations of cubes, their strengths and weaknesses. Of course, I will not disassemble non-standard homemade products. Let's talk only about the most common options built on standard components. The first in a row will rightly be the well-deserved
Milk flask
(can, capacity from the milking machine). The most, perhaps, affordable option as a basis for cube building. 
I myself have two pieces of 40 liters each, both were bought used for 1000 rubles apiece (the price for them was quite stable before the crisis, for example, I bought mine with a gap of several months, and even “poked around” - I chose cleaner yes evenly). It is irrational to take a smaller volume, since the price differs slightly, and there is much more sense from a large one. And it’s better to buy used ones, since among them there are mostly old, still Soviet-era vessels - I like them better. The new ones are a bit thinner and thinner. Aluminum is perfectly processed, any necessary holes can be made with improvised means. Fittings are used standard brass or bronze (available in any plumbing store is not expensive). Gaskets under the lid can be used with native rubber ones, wrapping them with a plumbing bag. If the gasket does not hold or it does not exist at all (a reason to bargain the price - a new one costs from 50 to 400 rubles, depending on the greed, it is sold), it does not matter either. On one of my flasks, the gasket, after working for several months, began to poison and I replaced it with a piece of silicone hose (11 by 16 mm), docking it with a piece of silicone hose of a smaller diameter (8 by 10). Works with a bang.
The disadvantages include:
1. Does not like alkaline environments. No need to wash using all sorts of "moles" and other alkali-based products. Very fast failure is provided - the surface is ulcerated and holes are formed.
2. Doesn't like cold water. The result is the same as from the action of alkali, just the process is slower.
3. Fastening the connecting elements falls on the threads and without welding, they all sooner or later begin to unscrew, and soldering aluminum is intricate (in any case, I learned this - the ease of assembly enchants and it’s easier to give up on future difficulties - “it will do”, but need to be tightened periodically). For me, this is perhaps the biggest drawback.
pressure cooker. This version of the cube is good for everyone, except for one thing - the volume of pressure cookers is usually no more than 12 liters (usually 9-10 liters, or even 5-6). Because of this, it is not rational to put a heating element in a pressure cooker, you have to purchase an induction (an increase in the cost of an already not very profitable device due to the small volume of the device) or heat it with gas (the impossibility of warming, which, however, is compensated by a small volume) and often encounter a height limit ( does not pass under the hood, etc.). It is usually used as a "starting" cube for deciding whether to develop. 
I have a 9l stainless steel OKA pressure cooker in use. I removed the standard valves from it, installed a 1/2 ″ adapter in the hole of one of them (on a thread with a nut and a Teflon gasket), and a thermometer in the hole of the other. There are aluminum pressure cookers - they are easier to modify. I chose stainless for durability and the ability to adapt to distilling needs without damaging the effect. At any time, you can remove the distiller and thermometer, reinstall the valves and use the pressure cooker for its intended purpose. Quite often I use it to make gin (less often absinthe and other drinks based on essential oils plants). This is much more convenient than driving a big cube.
Cooking pots and cauldrons
. Of course, you need to purchase stainless pans to build a cube, but aluminum ones are hard to find now, and enameled ones are not good. When choosing such a base, it is necessary to pay attention to the thickness of the material and, especially, the rigidity of the cover - you will often put a very heavy apparatus on it. If you are going to use induction, then pay attention to the material of the bottom (not all pots are suitable for use with induction cookers, by the way, this is a general remark for any cube). 
The main problem in constructing pot cubes is sealing the lid. Sometimes it is possible to pick up a gasket from some silicone mold for baking or silicone mat (appeared in Lately you can buy it on ebay right size), sometimes it is necessary to weld the cover and equip it with a welded flange (or even replace the cover with a suitable circle of 3 mm thick sheet). In general, the “pan” option is not suitable for home cube building because of the initial cost of the pan itself, the need for welding (in a good way, or soldering in a bad way). And most importantly, because of the presence of a very strong alternative in the form
Stainless steel beer keg
. Definitely a great container. Thick wall, stiffeners, convenient volume (20, 30 and 50 liters). It can be used without alteration by installing the device on a standard 2″ neck mount (preferably with a three-clamp, then neither welding nor other methods are needed at all). Easily lends itself to deep alteration, after which you will get a really convenient cube for all occasions. The illustration shows a cube of a 50 liter keg with a welded-in pressure cooker that solves the issues of an airtight neck. The disadvantages include the need for argon welding, or, at the very worst, brazing.
The pinnacle of amateur cube building today, I think steam-water boiler (PVK)
. 
Structurally, it consists of two nested containers. The inner container is actually a cube, and the outer one plays the role of a shirt for it. A certain amount of water is poured into the shirt, which is heated with the help of heating elements. It turns out a kind of steam-water bath for the cube. This achieves a good uniform heating of its entire surface with a very small temperature gradient at the border of the cube wall - bard. No local overheating, burning, etc. In addition to heating, you can also cool the contents of the cube by passing cold water through the shirt. Such an alternation of heating-cooling is necessary in the preparation of grain (starch) mash, where you first need to heat for boiling, then cool for saccharification and then for the actual fermentation. It is also very convenient to brew beer. Of course, such a version of the cube is, to put it mildly, non-budgetary and you need to acquire it already clearly understanding why you actually need all this.
Recently, stainless torque converters have been used as the basis for the cube, but I don’t particularly like this option. They are not cheap, they require improvement no less than a keg. In addition, containers with a volume of less than 80 liters have a horizontal orientation and a hatch at the end. It turns out not very convenient in work.
Summary. At the very beginning of distilling activity, you should not buy an expensive cube or bother with self-manufacturing complex capacity. It is still unknown how much you really need all this later. It makes sense to get a milk flask or even a pressure cooker. It will not be a pity to throw out the first one, and the second one will come in handy in any way even with advanced cubes. In any case, remember that the cube is just a part of your distillation system and its volume should be combined with the volume of the fermentation tank, the amount of finished product you want and other indicators. It is rather ridiculous, for example, to try to fill a barrel of 35 liters with distillate, having a pressure cooker as a still. 🙂
When acquiring a cube, pay attention to the following points: the possibility of insulation (if it is without insulation), the presence of a wide neck to ensure convenient maintenance and the possibility of subsequent refinement (often you don’t know today what you want tomorrow), the presence of the necessary connecting elements (pipes), sufficient overall structural strength.
This short article clearly shows the main stages of making a cube from affordable and popular materials used in everyday life, namely from pots. I had the opportunity to buy the notorious kegs, but on reflection, I refused to purchase them.
There are several reasons, the most important for me were the aesthetics and the possibility of heating on an induction hob (in the very near future).
Since I checked the pans with a magnet, I found that they are simply excellent magnets.
The price of the issue here turned out to be secondary, because the cost of a 30 liter keg and two pots of a similar capacity turned out to be approximately the same, but with pots I get some advantages.
After some hesitation, I purchased two pots of 18 liters.
The price of one is about 1200 rubles (prices for March 2011).
Initially, the idea was to simply dock them, by tinning their flat flange, on which the lid rests.
A win at first glance in time and ease of implementation, but the more I thought, the more I did not like it.
Most of all, I did not like the handles, ugly sticking out, and if you remove them, 8 holes that will remain after them.
An important factor is the height of the cube.
Two pots, with a total height of about 55 centimeters, did not inspire me either.
There was an idea to arrange them horizontally, such as a railway tank car.
This could be suitable for the distillation option, but I immediately did not like attaching a column to the side of the pan. Purely technically feasible, but not rational at all.
However, such an option for a keg would be quite acceptable, its walls are much thicker.
The mass of the column is very decent and gradually the junction of the cube and the column will become a big problem in terms of the strength of the walls of the pan.
So I settled on a vertical arrangement.
Trying to achieve the optimum in terms of the efficiency of using the volume of pots and the height of the column, I drew large-scale sketches of a cube with a column.
With full height (with handles), and in the version where I will shorten the pots a little at the place where the handles are attached.
The picture is cut off, showing only a cube, but I drew it in full scale with a column and a reflux condenser.
So it immediately becomes clear where a tactical design error was made.
I liked the second option better. The height of the cube was reduced to a reasonable 40 centimeters, the height of the column increased to 200 centimeters.
I don’t lose much in terms of the volume of the cube, but I eliminate the problem of possible leakage at the place of the rivets of the handles.
The result should be a cube with a total volume of about 28 liters.
In my opinion, a very reasonable amount, in terms of possible movement and duration of rectification.
Personally for me optimal time no more than 2 days.
When selecting within 500 grams, I load about 10-15 liters of concentrated SS into the cube.
The rest is water.
Why 15 liters? Yes, just a stainless steel receiving pan has such a volume.
I immediately see what and how much, how much I poured, and I got about that much, minus the volume of heads.
Having decided on the requests, we proceed to the elimination of pens.
When dismantling the handles, I praised myself many times - for the fact that I decided to remove them.
The handle itself is welded (quite high quality) to the reinforcing plate, and then the structure is riveted to the pan.
Despite the very high quality appearance rivets turned out to be the most common clad aluminum!
Thinking about the consequences if I decided to leave these rivets on the cube, I shuddered at the thought of the consequences and potential problems, such as removing the soldered cube and fixing leaks.
When all this shit would have to be cut, riveted again, soldered, having previously disassembled the cube!
And again, leaving after that 8 potentially dangerous soldering of new rivets.
Therefore, I decided to completely close the question by completely removing the holes for the rivets, cutting off the pans along the lower edges of the holes for the rivets.
The handles themselves were left unused.
I'm thinking about making a removable metal hoop and riveting handles to it.
Then put the ring on the cube with a fixing latch, it will turn out to be practical and safe.
But for three months of using the cube, somehow there was no need to drag it somewhere, and gradually I abandoned this idea, although I can make these pens when using it in an apartment.
Rivets close-up.
The aluminum is pressed between two decorative washers.
For the scale of home cooking, this method is justified.
For the needs of rectification, especially with alkalis, this is a time bomb.
Alkali will inevitably seep to aluminum, it's only a matter of time, the destruction of the rivets, followed by depressurization of the cube, is inevitable.
So, the pans are shortened, but you can’t just insert them into each other, these are not beer cans, but alloy steel.
We need a way to make the edge of one of the pans expand.
The most accessible is the metal riveting method.
All that is needed is a massive piece of metal, preferably round and, if possible, made of soft iron, although with practice, it is also possible on steel.
Soft metal reduces the possibility of a crack if hit hard with a hammer.
In no case should you rush - it will take a decent amount of time and requires patience.
We wind up some kind of stop for limiting, knock in the place indicated by the red arrow.
The process stretches for several revolutions, first we knock on the very edge of the pan, slowly turning it.
Impact marks are clearly visible. With
With each turn, we increase the indent from the edge of the pan.
Who has no skills - try to experiment on large beer cans.
As a result, you should get a smooth expansion of the rim of the pan (indicated by an arrow).
Then everything is carefully sanded and tinned.
The pans should fit into each other to a depth of about 8-10 mm.
Making holes in the bottom is no problem. The edges are easily processed with a small file for sharpening chains of electric saws.
A large hole was made by drilling small holes along the contour of the circle and removing the middle.
The tap threads were cut using a 1 kW drill connected through a powerful LATR.
The whole thing took about an hour and a half.
The end result should be something like this.
Directly at the edges of the thread, the stainless steel metal peels off a little.
This does not bother me, it will be clamped between the threads of the adapter sleeve and the nut.
There will be no liquid access to aluminum, all threads are squandered by FUM.
IMHO, carving is purely my personal whim.
Do not bother, it is not at all necessary, since I additionally tightened it from the bottom with a FUM winding nut.
Everything will be fine and without thread. I just had the opportunity to cut and I used it.
To clamp the large bronze clamping nut, a locking device had to be invented.
Made at one time from improvised materials.
We carefully wrap the FUM nut with an interference fit and insert it tightly into the hole.
The winding is made in the form of a cone, from top to bottom, so that from below the winding density continuously increases.
We scroll all this with effort, passing through the hole.
From above, also in the form of a cone expanding at the cube, we wind the FUM.
There was an idea - to grease with silicone, then I thought that this was a whim and left this idea.
We wind the transition sleeve, pressing the FUM into the gap.
Remove the clutch and repeat the winding again.
I had to repeat this 3 or 4 times as the tape was forced into the space between the nut and the edges of the hole.
At the bottom, near the surface of the pan, the FUM wound in the form of a twisted cord, purely to press the gap.
After making sure that everything turned out as it should, we wind another FUM, pick up a powerful gas key and tighten everything to the maximum.
Very tight - but within reasonable effort, not fooling around, threading has limits too.
Then, heating the bottom over a saucepan of boiling water (to shrink the tape), we stretch all the connections again.
Assemble the top of the cube.
Two transitional spurs (under the taps) are screwed into the thread and tightened in the same way.
Taps can be easily twisted and screwed on, say, a tee for expansion technical capabilities(pressure switch, manometer).
One faucet (horizontal) is a pure drain, a tinned copper tube is passed through to the very bottom of the cube.
This allows, without dismantling the columns, to supply a little air to the filling valve (vertical) and displace the bottom residue into the sewer.
The atmospheric opening of the dephlegmator at this moment is muffled.
It also strengthens the body structure. Since the taps are located at the top, in the strongest part of the cube.
And they don’t stick out like an ugly pisyun, causing disgust with their monstrous appearance.
If necessary, I remove the filling tap and screw in the measuring tube (adapter), which does not reach the filling level of the heating element by about a couple of centimeters. This allows you to work without problems in the steam generator mode without the risk of exposing the heating elements.
The tube begins to gurgle intensely, causing the temperature sensor to work.
The operation of the steam generator is stopped, the heating elements are saved from exposure.
Let us dwell separately on the acquisition and preparation of heating elements. I need several stages of regulation for the column.
Having decided on the power and number of heaters, we think about their resource (more on that below).
For my cube, I settled on the Aristons, taken out of the mounting unit. I have been using them for a long time, in general I am satisfied.
We go to buy, armed with a measuring device. We need to measure the coil resistance and insulation.
Having picked up two heaters with the most identical resistances, we measure the insulation.
I bought those whose resistance was above 20 MΩ.
A device with such a measuring range could not measure the insulation resistance.
After tinning the heating elements (I have copper ones), we tin the terminal lugs, having previously wrapped the exit point with FUM tape.
Since you have to use liquid soldering fluxes - and you need to take care of maintaining the insulation.
However, after winding the tape with extreme annoyance, I found that the insulation began to leak, the acid flux did its dirty work.
We take a sheet of metal in our hands and carefully file the edges of the heater - cutting the tube to a length of about 5 mm from the edge.
I measure the insulation, noting with pleasure that it has been completely restored.
In passing, I note that the heater leads are immersed inward to a depth of about 70 mm.
I discovered this during maintenance, when I applied 70 volts to heat the surface and make good soldering.
So without any damage to the health of the heater, you can saw off within a centimeter.
After tinning, I briefly applied 100 volts and when the heating element warmed up above the melting point of tin, I gently wiped them with a cloth.
It came out very clean and tidy.
When installing heaters, I was surprised to find that one is longer. Well, the costs of buying products from different batches.
After installing the heaters, I noticed that they were somehow not very firmly fixed, because the walls of the cube are rather thin.
I strengthened them by soldering them together with a 2 mm copper wire, just before the soldering of the halves of the cube.
Painted in red. After soldering, the heaters turned into a monolithic solid structure.
Here a natural question arises, but how to change the heaters in case of burnout? As expected - a set, since they are matched, it makes no sense to replace one. Since the neck diameter is 50 mm, there are no difficulties in installing new heaters soldered together.
Well, you can take out both and, replacing one, solder it again.
Separately, I will dwell on the selection of the power of heating elements.
A column is such a thing that does not tolerate neglect in terms of power selection.
Therefore, when thinking about making a column, think about the optimal coordination with the heating power of the cube. It is very important.
For those who do not want to think or their ingenuity is damaged as a result of drunken falls, contact Goodwin - he will help.
In short, for typical columns with a diameter of 30-40 mm, power is required in the range of 0.9 - 1.5 kW.
Let's start in order. I chose two heaters because of the very wide range of power control and the very long life of the heating element.
I am too lazy to read the basics of electrical engineering, so take my word for it.
I will almost constantly work with the column in two modes.
- with fixed power. (this is for lazy people like me).
- With power adjustment, for example for operation with a pressure regulator (pressure switch).
In the steam generator mode at maximum power, I do not want to use it, but I drew it for the supporters of universalism.
In the first mode, I connect both heaters in series, while the power will be 4 times less than the full power of the heating elements (if they are equal).
This achieves several positive points.
- The resource of the heating element increases sharply, since it operates at a voltage of 110 volts.
- The specific heat load per 1 square centimeter of the surface is sharply reduced (4 times).
Who is afraid of toasted yeast - this is it.
It was smooth on paper. But what about those who have a somewhat non-standard column diameter and need power, say, in the range of 1.5 - 1.8 kW, and, ironically, they only have heating elements like mine - 2 kW each. I already hear the cries of those confused on electronics - a “power regulator” is needed. Brilliant!!
Gee, (Chukchi: - however, a tractor is needed !!). But no, however, a tractor.
Yes, and with thyristor (triac) regulators - he is still hemorrhoids, who understands the essence of the process.
Our task is to provide the column with a consistent heating power - according to its performance.
I can not solve all the nuances of regulation. Let's omit the options with PWM and so on - this is a whim.
I propose to dwell on the most typical version of power adjustment (by pressure in the cube) - with a pressure switch.
As the most affordable option that does not require large financial costs and in-depth knowledge of electronics.
There are two options available here:
- providing a given range of power control from 1 to 2 kW. For example, in the first variant.
- not so versatile, but allows you to achieve the most convenient control limit from the minimum (selecting the throttle) - to the maximum.
Those. the limits of power fluctuations can be significantly narrowed - and the power can be selected, say, within 1600 - 2000 watts.
This greatly facilitates the work of the column, when the control limits are precisely limited to its needs, from minimum to maximum.
Diodes must be for a voltage of at least 400 volts (preferably 600) and a current of at least 10 A. Such diodes are not very expensive - within 30-50 rubles.
Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages. Here you can choose for yourself what suits you.
On the version with a choke - the main advantage is a uniform load on the heating elements, low currents on the contacts of the pressure switch.
By adjusting the number of turns of the throttle, you can match the heating power exactly to your column, which will provide the most optimal performance.
We have roughly decided on regulation and power. We solder the halves of the cube into each other - with the expanding part up.
We coat with liquid rosin and, heating with a small burner (quickly and evenly heating the seam along the length), fill the seam.
The task is completely ridiculous, since the tin just spreads evenly inside the tinned edges.
It should turn out something like this.
View from above. Please note that the taps are located away from the location of the heating elements.
At the drain tap (on the right), a tube runs inside to the very bottom of the cube.
Through the filling tap (on the left), I, with a pump for pumping up mattresses, (manual for 2 liters) supply air, 4 strokes - and water came out of the drain tap.
Let's say 5 liters of vat residue fly out in about 40 seconds.
If the column is removed - I pour it out through the neck, if there is a lot of water - I pressed the neck with a slipper and blew air - all the work of emptying.
Due to expensive and not always good alcohol on store shelves, many are starting to think about home brewing. And not in vain, because high-quality home-made alcohol will be cheaper, and often much more. better product manufactured in factories. In addition, the undoubted advantage is that a drink made at home can have a taste and aroma that cannot be found on store shelves, or its quality will be very controversial.
Due to the increasing popularity of home brewing, there are a lot of shops with a large assortment of necessary for home use devices that will satisfy the needs of any buyer. But, as a rule, the provided assortment can have a very high price, which makes you think about self-assembly of moonshine. The main objective of this article is to help with the manufacture of a container for a moonshine still - a distillation cube.
What is an Evaporation Cube
Before proceeding with the manufacture of the container, we will consider in more detail its purpose and the principle of its operation. . A moonshine cube is a container in which:
- The finished mash is heated, as a result of which various fractions begin to evaporate, among which is the ethyl alcohol necessary for the moonshiner.
- Evaporating, the vapors through the hoses enter the refrigerator, where the distillation process and the selection of the ethyl alcohol fraction take place.
Basic design requirements
In order for the process of making moonshine to go without problems, and the quality of the finished product to be impeccable, the evaporation cube must meet the following requirements:
Fulfilling all of the above requirements is not as difficult as it might seem. There will be no problems with the material either, the most popular is food grade stainless steel. It is resistant to high temperatures, relatively inert, cheap and readily available. Stainless steel pot stills for moonshine make up most of the goods of stores of this subject.
There are many ready-made examples homemade containers, so you don’t have to come up with a design yourself. But often the use of some tools is required, which include a drill, you may have to use welding or soldering. Therefore, you need both the tools themselves and experience when working with them.
Some craftsmen can assemble a distillation vessel from scratch by creating individual drawings of the workpiece, cutting out metal parts from solid sheets of metal and then assembling them. But this case is rather an exception, since it requires at least good handling skills. welding machine and grinder, and more suitable for people who want to create something unique. For an ordinary person who just wants to save money on buying a moonshine still, the most common running options will be listed production of containers with minimal upgrades and costs.
Using a pressure cooker as a container
A pressure cooker is an almost ready-made distillation vessel that requires minimal modernization. It is completely sealed, the lid is well fixed. There is also a pressure relief valve, which eliminates the risk of explosion during the distillation process. Availability non-stick coating eliminates the burning of the mash on the walls of the cube.
The capacity of this container does not allow to drive large volumes of moonshine, which affects the overall performance, but this can be ideal option for people who do not have the desire or ability to create a separate alembic.
To turn a pressure cooker in the moonshine still, you only need to drill a hole and insert a nipple and fitting into it, on which a hose will be put on connecting the distillation cube with the refrigerator.
Flask Cube
Milk flasks are popular in do-it-yourself cubes due to their affordability and minimal rework. Flask alembics are ideal for distilling large volumes of mash because the total capacity of such a flask can be up to 100 liters. Also, the flask has gaskets that will ensure tightness, and are able to withstand the temperature during the distillation process.
According to the materials, the flasks are aluminum and stainless steel. For a distillation cube, it is desirable to use stainless steel. Although the effect of aluminum on the body is little studied at the moment, it is better not to risk your health. To turn a milk flask into a distillation vessel, it is enough to drill a hole for a fitting in the center of the lid, by analogy with a pressure cooker . To protect yourself from the explosion of such a cube, it is advisable to drill an additional hole for the safety valve from the pressure cooker, which can be bought at the store or ordered online.
With a large volume of the flask, it is difficult to remove it from the stove, so a drain tap can also be inserted into the container, which will allow you to remove the mash after distillation without the need to transfer a heavy container. You can remake the flask for electric heating, for this, holes for heating elements are cut into the container. The number of holes depends on the power of the heating element and its shape, for example, one spiral is enough, or two or more under the U-shaped. The holes are sealed with fum tape or special heat-resistant sealants, and fixed with nuts.
The presence of two heating elements in the flask will allow the mash to reach the desired temperature faster, after which one heating element can be turned off. This is very convenient for large volumes. Also, the use of heating elements instead of standard heating on the stove allows you to reduce the burning of the mash to the walls, which has a positive effect on the taste of the finished product.
Making a cube from a pan
If there is no pressure cooker available, and there is no way to get a milk flask, you can try to make a distillation cube from the pan with your own hands.
To do this, you first need to remove the handle from the lid of the pot. For products of poor quality, the lid can be torn off even by hand. If it doesn't work, then it can be cut with a hacksaw. Then a hole for the fitting is drilled in the center of the cover, if desired, also a hole for the safety valve. Next, you need to come up with a seal for the lid itself, and a way to fix it. You can make an airtight gasket from a regular silicone hose, choosing the right size, and sewing the edges with a regular thread. Stationery clips may be suitable for fixing the lid.
Keg distillation container
You can also make a cube from a beer keg. It is relatively large in volume, airtight, has convenient carrying handles, the neck is convenient for pouring mash. The advantage is that a tube is welded to the keg cap, and to upgrade the keg into a home brewer, it is enough to install the fitting with the tube facing out. A silicone hose is attached to the tube using a crimp clamp, which will be combined with a distiller, and on this do-it-yourself distillation cube from a beer keg is ready for use.
It is very often difficult to remove the factory fittings, so it is advisable to purchase a keg on which they have already been removed. If a closed beer keg is available, then the fittings should be removed very carefully, as there may be pressure from beer residues and gases in it.
If desired, you can make holes for a thermometer and a safety valve, embed heating elements. If the keg is large, you can equip it with a tap to drain the mash.
Creating a container for a moonshine with your own hands is a relatively simple process, and the cost of the costs is much lower compared to buying a ready-made container. If you have confidence in your abilities, it is better to make a cube yourself, adding to it everything you need for convenient home brewing, which will save a lot of money.
Attention, only TODAY!
First you need to decide on the subject of consideration. So, the distillation cube is a sealed container designed for heating and subsequent distillation of mash or initial wort. talking plain language, this is a reservoir in which the initial separation of the mash into fractions takes place, namely, alcohol-containing vapors are released, which are sent further into the system.
It is quite possible to make a distillation cube with your own hands, but for this you need to have a number of skills and know general principles process. So, in order to make such a container, you need to fulfill several requirements:
- The tank lid must be sealed. Even a slight etching of the air will adversely affect both the efficiency of the evaporation process and the quality characteristics the resulting distillate.
- The distillation cube of the moonshine must have a volume suitable for a certain amount of the initial liquid, as well as sufficient for the evaporation process to occur. If this parameter is incorrectly selected, the boiling mash will splash out into the outlet tubes, which is highly undesirable.
- Be sure to have one or more holes equipped with special fittings.
- The material from which the distillation cube will be made with your own hands should have as little chemical activity as possible, that is, not enter into chemical reaction with mash components.
The aluminum can is the most popular cube container, but not the safest.
The main problem when doing the work with your own hands will be precisely ensuring tightness. As you can often see, the distillation cube of the old moonshine was made from an ordinary milk flask. In general, this option is quite working, however, careful revision of the cover is necessary, since the standard version did not provide for the formation of internal pressure.
Among other things, the tank can be equipped with a built-in heating element, which will act as a heating element and ensure the operation of the system.
Types of distillation cubes
Based on the materials used in the manufacture and some structural differences, the distillation cube can be of several types.
- aluminum flask. This option is distinguished by its large volume, accessibility and ease of operation, and almost every person with basic skills in handling a tool can do it with their own hands. However, such a tank is rather bulky, unaesthetic, and aluminum oxidizes over time, which leads to a decrease in the quality of the resulting product. It is also worth considering that a system equipped with a flask container will not function if an induction cooker is used.
- pressure cooker. You can make a tank for evaporating mash with your own hands from a household pressure cooker. Ease of use, functionality and compactness stand out among the advantages, but such a capacity will have a modest performance.
- beer keg. Beer kegs can be used to make a distillation tank. These kegs are made of stainless steel and are airtight. You can choose the required volume, and with some modifications, equip such a tank with the necessary sensors, for example, a thermometer. All work can be done by hand, and therefore save. A distillation cube from a beer keg is the most preferred option for making a moonshine still.
- Finished tanks. For the manufacture of a distillation cube of a moonshine still, you can purchase ready-made containers produced at the factory. Such a product will have all the necessary properties, but its use will require financial investments.
- Pan. The simplest tank for the distillation of mash can be made from an ordinary enamel pan. You will need to make a special gasket with your own hands to ensure tightness, as well as equip a locking system.
TEN can be mounted with your own hands
Among other things, the considered elements of the moonshine still may differ in the way the mash is heated. So you can select tanks with external heating and tanks equipped with a built-in heating element. The distillation cube with a heating element is quite convenient and does not require the use of external heating devices. The use of such a device is possible in any place where there is an outlet with electricity, which makes it an ideal country option.
The principle of operation of the distillation cube
- The infused mash is poured into the container, after which the lid is hermetically closed.
- Next, the liquid is heated. This can be both with the help of external heating devices, and with the use of built-in elements, if it is a distillation cube with a heating element. Here it is important to take into account that the primary evaporation of alcohol-containing vapors begins to occur already at a temperature of about 80 degrees Celsius. To increase the efficiency of the process, additional insulation of the tank can be carried out.
- Braga is brought to a boil, while high pressure is formed inside the tank, as a result of which the vapors move further through the system.
The secondary separation of steam into fractions is carried out in a dry steamer and a bubbler, if they are provided for in the design. It does not seem appropriate to talk about how to make a bubbler within the framework of this article, however, information can be obtained from other materials.
How to make an alembic
For a complete understanding of the issue, it is necessary to consider the process of making a distillation cube from a beer keg and pan, as the most common options.
Cube from the pan
If the tank for the distillation of mash is planned to be made from a pan, then the actions will be carried out in several stages:
- First you need to purchase a suitable container. As mentioned above, this parameter should be selected based on the expected volumes of raw materials and the free volume that must remain to ensure vaporization.
- Further, at some distance from the neck, special locking devices are fixed that will hold and seal the lid. You can fasten the latches with any accessible way(welding, rivets) the main thing is to ensure the tightness of the connection.
- Holes must be drilled in the cover and special fittings must be screwed into them, necessary for attaching a thermometer and pressure gauge.
- At some distance from the bottom of the pan, a hole is drilled, the diameter of which must correspond to the fitting to be installed to drain the stillage.
The main issue that should be paid attention to when assembling such a distillation tank is to ensure its tightness. For these purposes, previously ordinary dough was often used, but now it is more expedient and more convenient to use special silicone gaskets and sealants.
Alembic from a beer keg
You can also make a distillation tank from an ordinary beer keg. For this, a barrel of the required volume is purchased. Next, a hole is drilled in the lid for installing a thermometer. A thread is cut in the hole, and the same is cut on the tube that will be screwed into it. Thus, a fitting is formed, which will allow you to conveniently install and remove the sensor.
At some distance from the bottom of the keg or in its bottom, a hole is drilled to drain the bard, into which a special fitting will be installed. The tank lid already has a technological hole that will be used to connect pipes through which alcohol-containing vapor will be supplied further through the system.
To simplify the process of heating the mash inside the distillation cube, the tank can be additionally insulated from the outside. For these purposes, for example, foil material intended for vapor barrier of premises can be used.
There are a lot of ways to make a distillation cube for a moonshine still. If you have some experience and tools, you can do the work yourself. Choose for yourself the most suitable option everyone can.
sia Associate Professor Vladimir 1450 532
Good day to all.
I use homemade stills made from pots. For a volume of 13.5 liters, the solution is optimal for the price and ease of manufacture. Steel 18/10, thick layered bottom, with induction heating there was never a burn on either sugar or grain or fruit mash. Of course clarified and filtered.
After a year or two of operation, I saw pockets of pitting on the inner surface of the cube. The steel is of high quality, the same pan used for making syrups and porridges for mash is still like new both inside and out. Apparently the matter is in the high humidity remaining in the cube after the end of work and washing. It had to be dried somehow.
Boiling aqueous solution citric acid did not give any significant positive effect. You can of course just unsolder. Clean everything with a sandpaper - a metal washcloth and solder. But maybe someone knows an easier way? What else can be boiled in it to remove corrosion? I think many people use cubes with a narrow filler neck. share folk wisdom
The advice from Samovarius turned out to be effective, for which many thanks to him. Quote:
I pour soda into the cube, about 0.5 liters, pour hot water 2-3 liters, put on fire, connect def and refrigerator. I drive the system until min. 250 ml. I drain the liquid from the cube, rinse with hot water, pour clean water, I run the system again.
Distillation cube - the basis of the moonshine still
A mandatory part of the moonshine still is the distillation cube, it is in it that the main evaporation of the alcohol solution takes place. This element can have not only different volumes, but also differ in the material used and the method of manufacture. This is especially true for options when the device is designed with your own hands.
How a distillation tank or cube works
The element is made exclusively of metal and can be of various sizes.
In the upper part or cover, more often it is in the form of a dome, a special steam outlet is installed. When the solution boils, the alcohol-containing vapors rise and enter the refrigerator through the adapter, where they condense into an alcoholic product. Almost around the day, a valve is provided to ensure the exit of the remnants of the used mash.
For those who do not like experiments, appreciate high quality and their time, it is better to give preference to already finished product. The alembic and accompanying paraphernalia can be purchased at a specialized store, including on the Internet resource.
Especially valuable is the use of a stainless steel moonshine, which is reflected not only in the average cost of such equipment, but also in practicality and a fairly long service life.
What can you make a distillation cube
Various utensils, containers and the duration of operation of such a moonshine still, as well as its functionality, depend on the knowledge of the inventor and the skills of the manufacturer.
Most often, steel products made by hand or purchased ready-made are used for this. It is steel that is highly resistant to long-term temperature loads, does not react with chemical compounds contained in mash. For high-quality alcoholic beverages, not only strength is important, but also the absence of foreign flavors, and using steel surfaces, this is quite possible to achieve. The ingress of compounds harmful to the body when using steel is also excluded, which cannot be stated with accuracy for aluminum tanks.
Steel cube and is it possible to make it yourself
If you decide to make an apparatus for making alcohol with your own hands, then for this you can use several options. One of the most difficult is the use of stainless steel sheets, which, after rather complex manipulations, are converted into a cube for hauling. Step by step, this process is as follows:
This whole process, only with a superficial study, seems simple, but in fact, the production of a moonshine still with your own hands, in particular, a distillation steel cube, is only possible for true professionals. In order not to waste time, as well as to avoid emergency situations during distillation, product spoilage or poor quality, it is better to purchase ready-made equipment.
Sometimes you can find specialists who specialize in the manufacture of steel cubes, but then the guarantee of the moonshine will also be doubtful. Only real professionals can be trusted with such a business, it is better if they are trusted people, since the pleasure of manufacturing stainless steel moonshine containers is relatively expensive.
In addition to observing the production technology itself metal product, it is important to correctly calculate. They are needed not only to determine the amount of material needed, planning material costs, but in order not to miscalculate with volumes. With a compact distillation cube, there will also be the lowest productivity, which will greatly extend the event for the preparation of alcoholic beverages.
Buying an apparatus made by professionals helps to facilitate the process of home brewing, as the kit already has everything you need to carry out distillation and control it.
Other Ways to Invent the Still
If you plan to produce alcohol in small quantities, then you can simply use a pressure cooker by choosing a product with a maximum volume. If you unscrew the drain valve, you can mount an adapter for supplying steam to the refrigerator. The tightness of the lid is ensured initially, as this is provided for by the manufacturing technology of such dishes. Get with a normal pressure cooker good exit the product is quite difficult, so one of the alternatives is flasks, but not those that contain aluminum. This metal has not been recommended for alcohol production for a long time, although it was very popular several decades ago.
Some craftsmen adapt ordinary stainless steel pots for distillation, which are previously partially modified. In other words, almost the same pressure cookers are made from them. Holes are made in the lids to remove steam, the lid is supplemented with a special fastener to ensure tightness during the distillation process. Since pots can be various sizes, then the containers can also be selected according to volumetric requirements.
Despite the numerous inventions of people trying to reduce the cost of producing a moonshine still without sacrificing quality, not everyone can do it with their own hands. In order not to take risks and really get an alcoholic product with the desired strength, pleasant aroma and planned yield, you need to choose systems developed by professionals. Conditional savings or a desire for experimentation can negatively affect the level of alcohol production.
Not everyone can do a hermetic, easy-to-use distillation cube made of stainless steel with their own hands, but choose best option in terms of cost and functionality everyone can. There are companies that organize the delivery of all required attributes. The kit already includes a container for distillation, and a cooler, dry steamer, thermometer, connecting elements and everything you need to make not only moonshine, but also cognac, whiskey and any other drink.
moonshine cube
Somehow I missed this thread. I must say - completely undeserved. In principle, many will say that constructively, the cube, as they say, does not affect the speed. However, the constructive cube sometimes has a very significant impact on the convenience of work. And in some processes (for example, when working with grain mash) it can also affect the overall speed of the process.
Consider the main variations of cubes, their strengths and weaknesses. Of course, I will not disassemble non-standard homemade products. Let's talk only about the most common options built on standard components. The first in a row will rightly be the well-deserved
Milk flask (can, capacity from the milking machine). Perhaps the most affordable option as a basis for cube building. 
I myself have two pieces of 40 liters each, both bought second-hand at 1000 rubles apiece (the price for them was quite stable before the crisis, for example, I bought mine with a gap of several months, and even tinkering - I chose cleaner and more evenly ). It is irrational to take a smaller volume, since the price differs slightly, and there is much more sense from a large one. And it’s better to buy used ones, since among them there are mostly old, still Soviet-era vessels - I like them better. The new ones are a bit thinner and thinner. Aluminum is perfectly processed, any necessary holes can be made with improvised means. Fittings are used standard brass or bronze (available in any plumbing store is not expensive). Gaskets under the lid can be used with native rubber ones, wrapping them with a plumbing bag. If the gasket does not hold or it does not exist at all (a reason to bargain the price - a new one costs from 50 to 400 rubles, depending on the greed, it is sold), it does not matter either. On one of my flasks, the gasket, after working for several months, began to poison and I replaced it with a piece of silicone hose (11 by 16 mm), docking it with a piece of silicone hose of a smaller diameter (8 by 10). Works with a bang.
The disadvantages include:
1. Does not like alkaline environments. No need to wash using all sorts of moles and other alkali-based products. Very fast failure is provided - the surface is ulcerated and holes are formed.
2. Doesn't like cold water. The result is the same as from the action of alkali, just the process is slower.
3. Fastening the connecting elements falls on the threads and without welding, they all sooner or later begin to unscrew, and soldering aluminum is intricate (in any case, I learned this - the ease of assembly fascinates and it’s easier to give up on future difficulties - and so it will do, but periodically you have to pull up). For me, this is perhaps the biggest drawback.
Pressure cooker. This version of the cube is good for everyone, except for one thing - the volume of pressure cookers is usually no more than 12 liters (usually 9-10 liters, or even 5-6). Because of this, it is not rational to put a heating element in a pressure cooker, you have to purchase an induction (an increase in the cost of an already not very profitable device due to the small volume of the device) or heat it with gas (the impossibility of warming, which, however, is compensated by a small volume) and often encounter a height limit ( does not pass under the hood, etc.). It is usually used as a starting cube for deciding whether to develop. 
I have a 9l stainless steel OKA pressure cooker in use. He removed the standard valves from it, installed a 1/2 adapter in the hole of one of them (on a thread with a nut and a Teflon gasket), and a thermometer in the hole of the other. There are aluminum pressure cookers - they are easier to modify. I chose stainless for durability and the ability to adapt to distilling needs without damaging the effect. At any time, you can remove the distiller and thermometer, reinstall the valves and use the pressure cooker for its intended purpose. Quite often I use it to make gin (less often absinthe and other drinks based on essential oils of plants). This is much more convenient than driving a big cube.
Cooking pots and boilers. Of course, you need to purchase stainless pans to build a cube, but aluminum ones are hard to find now, and enameled ones are not good. When choosing such a base, it is necessary to pay attention to the thickness of the material and, especially, the rigidity of the cover - you will often put a very heavy apparatus on it. If you are going to use induction, then pay attention to the material of the bottom (not all pans are suitable for use with induction cookers, this, by the way, is a general remark for any cube). 
The main problem in constructing pot cubes is sealing the lid. Sometimes it is possible to pick up a gasket from some kind of silicone baking dish or a silicone mat (they have appeared recently, you can buy the right size on ebay), sometimes you have to weld the lid and equip it with a welded flange (or even replace the lid with a suitable circle from a sheet 3mm thick). In general, the pot option is not suitable for home cube building because of the initial cost of the pan itself, the need for welding (in a good way, or soldering in a bad way). And most importantly, because of the presence of a very strong alternative in the form
Stainless steel beer keg. Definitely a great container. Thick wall, stiffeners, convenient volume (20, 30 and 50 liters). It can be used without alteration by installing the device on a standard neck mount 2 (preferably with a three-clamp, then neither welding nor other methods are needed at all). Easily lends itself to deep alteration, after which you will get a really convenient cube for all occasions. The illustration shows a cube of a 50 liter keg with a welded-in pressure cooker that solves the issues of an airtight neck. The disadvantages include the need for argon welding, or, at the very worst, brazing.
Today, I consider the steam-water boiler (PVK) to be the pinnacle of amateur cube building. 
Structurally, it consists of two nested containers. The inner container is actually a cube, and the outer one plays the role of a shirt for it. A certain amount of water is poured into the shirt, which is heated with the help of heating elements. It turns out a kind of steam-water bath for the cube. This achieves a good uniform heating of its entire surface with a very small temperature gradient at the border of the cube wall - stillage. No local overheating, burning, etc. In addition to heating, you can also cool the contents of the cube by passing cold water through the shirt. Such an alternation of heating-cooling is necessary in the preparation of grain (starch) mash, where you first need to heat for boiling, then cool for saccharification and then for the actual fermentation. It is also very convenient to brew beer. Of course, such a version of the cube is, to put it mildly, non-budgetary and you need to acquire it already clearly understanding why you actually need all this.
Recently, stainless torque converters have been used as the basis for the cube, but I don’t particularly like this option. They are not cheap, they require improvement no less than a keg. In addition, containers with a volume of less than 80 liters have a horizontal orientation and a hatch at the end. It turns out not very convenient in work.
Summary. At the very beginning of distilling activity, you should not purchase an expensive cube or bother with the independent production of a complex container. It is still unknown how much you really need all this later. It makes sense to get a milk flask or even a pressure cooker. It will not be a pity to throw out the first one, and the second one will come in handy in any way even with advanced cubes. In any case, remember that the cube is just a part of your distillation system and its volume should be combined with the volume of the fermentation tank, the amount of finished product you want and other indicators. It is rather ridiculous, for example, to try to fill a barrel of 35 liters with distillate, having a pressure cooker as a still.
When acquiring a cube, pay attention to the following points. the possibility of insulation (if it is not insulated), the presence of a wide neck to ensure convenient maintenance and the possibility of subsequent refinement (often you don’t know today what you want tomorrow), the presence of the necessary connecting elements (pipes), sufficient overall structural strength.
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Do-it-yourself moonshine still
In our country, moonshine stills are not new products, they are old, familiar to everyone units for making drinks. own production with a variety of additives. In Russia, do-it-yourself moonshine stills began to be made during the period of strict Prohibition, when people were forced to look for other ways to get alcoholic beverages for the holidays.
Standard design moonshine was known to both children and adults. Even those who did not have such devices at home understood the structure of these home helpers. Today, the legislation is loyal to those who make alcoholic beverages for their own use. For sale, of course, threatens punishment. For many now moonshine still is a hobby. He managed not only to preserve the unique tradition. Modern manufacturers of moonshine stills use progressive technologies, they choose high quality materials, constantly improve the design.
Stylish, concise and multifunctional units are a matter of pride. They are happily presented to friends, used to make a variety of drinks, which are almost as good as store-bought ones in terms of quality and taste. Many beginners at the beginning of the moonshine business have a lot of questions. In encyclopedias, for example, on Wikipedia, they do not write about schemes, drawings and photos of moonshine stills. And various forums and portals of craftsmen contain a lot of both useful and very dubious information. If you firmly decided to create a structure yourself, then this guide and expert advice will come in handy.
Do-it-yourself moonshine is real!
Some at a glance at the distiller are intimidated by its complex system. Despite the formidable appearance and many details, the scheme of the moonshine still is quite simple when analyzed in detail. The standard design consists of:
Distillation cube. This is the main container in which the raw material is placed. The tank is installed on the burner hob or on a stone stove, it heats up, during which the mash boils, and vapors with an alcohol content are released. Refrigerator. The cooling unit must be present in the circuit of any moonshine still. It is necessary to create condensate. When passing through the cooler, the vapor again turns into a liquid and enters the collection container. It is very important to maintain the optimum temperature, as in the still. In the simplest designs, cooling occurs due to the presence of this element in a container with water, which is replaced regularly when heated from the temperature in the room. Coil. The refrigerator element, which is represented by a curved tube, is ideally made from a thin-walled stainless steel bar. The quality of moonshine at the outlet directly depends on the length of the tube. It is recommended to use a workpiece of about 2 meters. Connecting pipes or hoses. They are an intermediate link between the distillation tank and the cooler. Water is supplied through silicone hoses and distillate flows out. Additional equipment. It includes all kinds of bimetallic thermometers, measuring containers, sealing gaskets, heating elements.
Obviously, everyone can make moonshine at home, having a great desire and the necessary details at hand. As a cube for distillation, you can use a regular pressure cooker. It is initially equipped with a hermetically sealed lid, which simplifies the task. In the absence of such a pan in the house, you can use a metal flask, a can or even a beer keg. It is important to observe the condition: capacity in without fail must have a tight-fitting lid.
Also, aluminum flasks, stainless steel cans and other containers with a tight-fitting lid can be used as a still. Below are the options that can be purchased at Alkopribor.
