How to make a table with your own hands? We make a picnic table with our own hands: step by step instructions. How to make a round or rectangular table out of wood DIY table ideas

The table is the second item after the stool that every novice furniture maker should be able to do. The table can be created from different materials and have unique features. A great intention for you will be the desire to make your product out of wood.

A wooden table is fairly easy to create with your own hands, it is enough to have minimal skills in working with carpentry tools. And the cost of the material will be significantly less than a table using metal, glass or plastic.

A piece of furniture made by oneself will correspond as closely as possible to the desires of a happy owner, and will delight the eye incomparably more than purchased. And most importantly, when creating a table with your own hands, important skills are acquired in working with the material, which will make the restoration of operational defects much easier.

What makes a good table

A particularly beautiful countertop can be made from cheap non-grade pine boards, knotty and serrated (without falling knots, rot, fungus, wormholes), which, when well processed, give a wonderful pattern, to achieve which, when working with expensive wood, much more effort and effort must be applied .

When choosing a material, it is important to take care of the strength of the future product. To do this, pay attention to the density of wood.

Soft (spruce, pine, chestnut, dogwood) is easily damaged during operation, which adversely affects the durability of the table. But scratches and dents can be hidden, although the restoration process will be quite frequent.

Hard woods (beech, ash, maple, oak, walnut, fruit woods, elm) are quite difficult to handle on their own. And you may have to look for masters to work with them. But ensure the durability of the product.

External characteristics

It is very important to determine in advance appearance your future product. The main rule of a good table is if the design fits well into the space allotted for it and leaves a lot of free space for those sitting.

It is also important to consider that a table with a rectangular top will accommodate fewer people than a table with a round or oval shape with the same area. And it would be more expedient to make a table for guests in a folding version, which unfolds for big holidays, and is folded in everyday life. Also, such a folding table will be convenient in the backyard.

Most often it is required to choose a kitchen table. It should be roomy and pleasing to the eye, to facilitate the process of working with him. But it should not interfere with movements in the room and in no way interfere with the process of culinary creativity.

Based on this, it is absolutely clear that the size of the table is selected depending on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. Also, softwoods cannot be used for the kitchen table due to its use in "extreme" conditions.

The choice of the external characteristics of the product is a responsible process, therefore, before starting the formation of a table for a dacha with your own hands, it is extremely necessary to carefully assess the needs for which this table is being made.

Transferring ideas to paper

When creating a design that is the fruit of your imagination, you will have to develop a diagram and drawings of your table with your own hands. Why there is a huge variety of electronic programs.

After a thorough development process, it is extremely important to transfer the result to paper. For fast and quality work It is very important to use this manual constantly.

creative process

Preparation of drawings is the last preparatory stage. Next, you can proceed to the most important part of the work - the manufacture of parts. Do-it-yourself wooden tables are created much easier if the drawings and diagrams are as informative as possible. This reduces the chance of errors to a minimum.

You can personally make both a desk and a coffee table or children's version. With a certain skill, it is possible to create a computer desk. As well as a dining or country model. Each of the options is quite easy to implement.

The canvas for the countertop and the board with the bars, from which the rest of the parts will be formed, are processed with the available tool or, at worst, coarse-grained sandpaper to remove defects present in the form of bumps and protruding knots.

Boards are sanded from all sides, including side edges and corners. If you are creating a canvas from saw cuts of wood, you need to make sure that they are dry enough, and also close up small cracks found after visual inspection. And it's better to screw them. To get a more reliable grip of the canvas and save time on assembling the elements.

Transfer the scheme to the finished canvas. The main elements are cut with an electric jigsaw and, if necessary, the sections are ground. Speakers supporting elements trimmed to about 3 inches. Horizontal cuts are made on both sides of the supports (legs).

The blanks are covered with a preparation that prevents the ingress of moisture and pests, and only after the final drying is it allowed to resume the process of creating the table with your own hands.

Putting the details together

After making all the necessary details, you can begin the sacred rite. Namely, to collect the desired masterpiece together. And it can be either a round table or any other selected product.

First, you need to assemble the support structure with screws and glue (first, thin channels are drilled with a drill for the length of the screw, otherwise there is a chance of splitting the part). Galvanized screws can be used for connection, as they do not rust, and this is very important for wood products. Or wood glue.

According to the basic rules, the frame in length and width should be 30-25 cm less than the countertop.

From the sides you need to attach additional boards to stiffen and hide the place where the legs are attached. Cut off the chamfers in the places where the legs are installed.

Then the table leg is fastened in place with clamps, and holes for the bolts are drilled into the frame. Install the support elements in their places and fix them with stoppers. Strengthen the structure with wood glue. Then install the countertop in place for which furniture corners are used. At the very end, all visible screws are hidden with wood-colored plugs.

The final stage. Finishing

A photo of the completed table can be seen below. Achieving this result is surprisingly easy. Optionally, you can round either only the corners or the entire end, depending on the type of table. It will be nice to make chamfers on the edges of the tabletop.

Roughnesses are polished in the entire structure, with the help of putty, mistakes are hidden. To extend the life of a table assembled by oneself, it is necessary to cover it with several layers of varnish or stain.

Thus, making a beautiful wooden table with your own hands is a fairly simple leisure activity. And easy to do. The guarantee of extracting a sound, ideal in terms of dimensions and aesthetic result according to your drawings is: exact adherence to the instructions, error-free execution and carefully selected material. And the resulting table will harmoniously fit into the exterior.

DIY table photo

The table is the second object after the stool, which a novice furniture maker should take up. Design simple table no more difficult than a stool; unassuming comfortable table to the cottage or for a picnic, you can build in half a day using a hacksaw, hammer and drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly ennobled can also look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensively purchased one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative self-expression, it can be a significant and even key element of interior design, it is not for nothing that handicraft furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinetrs or bedside tables. Having mastered the carpentry craft, it will be possible to take up exclusive tables over time, the rest of the poses. there.

This article discusses how to make tables out of wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic qualities. In utilitarian products, she forgives rather gross mistakes for beginners, but fine work woodwork requires a high level of skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, then mastering glass, metal and plastic will be much easier.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need a separate living rooms production room: Woodwork is notoriously dusty. In addition, such good means toning and protecting wood, like wood stains, emit harmful fumes during staining; nitro-varnishes, too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, and preferably with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and they will not benefit the car. Better to work in the barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, but on the farm it will come in handy for a lot of things.

The usual carpentry tool, on the left in the figure, is enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better if modern achievements are brought to the rescue, right there:

• Swivel miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make saw cuts exactly in size and in angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. The miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
• Also universal is a manual electric jigsaw with an inclined shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
• Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, it makes it possible for a beginner to get the surface of a wooden plate in 5-15 minutes, on which an experienced carpenter with a skin in his hand will take at least an hour, and tape, pos. 5, also quickly and efficiently process the ends; there are also belt grinders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders; artificially aging, a tree, but this is a delicate work.
• It is also preferable to rent at first manual frezer on wood, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges, choose holes and grooves.

A universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on a table, powered by 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, planer, wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just grind the table legs on it, the tailstock caliper overhang is too small. But the caliper itself is just a steel round pipe, it is not difficult to lengthen it. The stop of the cutter remains regular, it is mobile, the leg and with a long caliper are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of medium resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Of the domestic ones, these include:

The rocks are listed in order of availability. For example, timber harvesting horse chestnut, sycamore and juniper are not kept at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, and the juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial blanks of elm are almost completely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - for weapons stocks; There is no full-fledged plastic replacement for them yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, does not renew well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and the wood is expensive.

Note: walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent viscosity, the most openwork carving does not prick on the nut. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. Pine or oak will go to the countertop; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop, it is strongly warped from the spilled. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

On a pine countertop made of boards, you can and even need to take low-grade cheap boards - knotty, serpentine. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, rot marks on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is the countertop substandard? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished on a circular and jointer? And after skillful processing of them, plates of remarkable beauty are obtained, on the left in fig. Manufacturers do not like such a tree: the production cycle is delayed, waste increases. But for yourself with your own hands, this is not so scary compared to the result.

wooden humpback

Commercial pine has a clearly defined zoning of wood in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many hardwoods also have it. On the saw cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. humpback in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in fig. in the center, then when rallying the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with humps alternately up and down, from below in fig. If the ridges are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with ridges in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the countertop does not split or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

Free means of protecting wood from decay - used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this option is not the best. Optimal will be 2-fold, with a break of 3-5 days, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE), it will give protection to the table for the entire time of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with WPE is suitable for furniture front panels: it is also varnished on top and does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually falling into disuse: they are superior to water-based acrylic varnishes in all respects; in addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 on alcohol are inferior to PVA; however, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them tack-free before joining and holding them under pressure for 1-3 days, but this is acceptable for home production.

Wood for furniture can be pre-tinted and protected with a stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same lacquer and artistic (not paint!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC lacquers and acrylic water-based for the same lacquer.

First, they prepare a “painting”: they take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it with continuous thorough stirring with a paintbrush. The coloring is stored in a tightly closed vial and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is done on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the rules for mixing oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

First steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If 1-2 brick pallets remain from the construction site, then the pallet table will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, you get a garden table like a coffee table, on the left in fig. If there is a pair available, in just half an hour you can make a wall-mounted desktop-rack, in the center and on the right. Chains for it can also be woven yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop small tool stacked on a wall pallet shelf.

With a little more work, a collapsible cutting table for a summer residence is made from one pallet, which allows you to transfer the summer-autumn harvesting campaign to the street without littering with husks and without trampling on the stumps. For the winter this table is collected in a compact package. The construction is clear from Fig; a bucket is placed under the hatch in the tabletop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country table-goats, colloquially a goat. Its construction of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right - a country folding table on the same principle. It has swivel joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on the nails between the crossbars of the tabletop. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it will also go to a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the countertop can be made longer.

Finally, it also does not require special tools and skills for a gazebo table, see fig. below. Material - the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, now you need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. A table, in general, consists of a tabletop, its support frame, possibly with niches and / or mechanisms, or simply a plate - underframe - legs, and knots holding everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because. their fastening is the most weakness table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled on a quick-drying glue that does not require exposure: carpentry, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off hats are used to connect thin boards, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, a thin-layered tree is taken stronger than both connected parts, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table with birch legs can be joined on oak or beech dowels. On sale there are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels; before use, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, for example. inserts in sliding tables.

Legs for industrial tables are attached with detachable drawers, see fig. on right. Pos., marked in yellow - the simplest, cheapest and worst. With its shortcomings total absence buyers of Shiroptrebov's Soviet furniture are well aware of its merits, let it remain there. Reliable, well-kept, except for the legs, and underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite laborious, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. Drawer side with shaped steel jib, top right in the figure, even stronger; in this way it is possible to fasten legs with a round head and in general any, however, purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel are required.

Note: legs are attached to the round table, as shown below in fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. V small apartment With narrow corridor a table with legs is often simply impossible to push up to the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments are more spacious, and in 1-storey private houses the table can be served / given out the window, therefore, in such cases, the strength and durability of the table with tightly fixed legs comes to the fore.

For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in fig. By the way, the tsargs are also one-piece: then the legs with dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the fibers of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that these 200-year-old tables can be fought by grabbing the leg.

Sufficiently high-quality tables on turned legs are assembled simply on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs of a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. So that they do not cling to the floor, you need to stuff the thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.

tabletop

The easiest, but not the cheapest way, is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Chipboard for countertops is available in the form of the so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m 20-60 mm thick with a decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the bottom face with a drip collector, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is quite environmentally friendly, no matter what gossip does not want to forget the co-furniture, which stank of phenol for months.

Postforming is well bought by small furniture enterprises. They always have his scraps; of them, they will gladly and for a very affordable price cut the tabletop to size, if the company has a jig saw. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be closed, i.e. cover the PVC end with a piping (edge). If you will be edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an awkward surcharge for edging), then keep in mind:

• The upper and lower flanges of the edging have a different profile, see on the left in fig. Confuse - there will always be a piping of dirt on the table.
• Kant must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the plate. It is possible to put on a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm plate, but it will soon slide off.
• The groove for the crest of the edge must be selected with a manual disk cutter; saw, it seems that no one has yet succeeded as it should.
• Before installing the edge, a thin layer of silicone sealant is applied to the end surface and the "sausage" is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also be a lubricant, without which the ridge of the edge can simply be crushed.
• The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop must lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately washed with a clean rag slightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are rallied in plank clips with wedges and spacers - wimahs. Wimes are quite possible to make yourself; You need 3-4 for a tabletop. Wym boards (cheeks) are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. On fig. for example - the process of manufacturing a round tabletop; rectangular rally in the same way, only cropping to size is easier. The shield is rallied onto the countertop with glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are grooved, dowels are not needed. When rallying to PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue is tacky before installation in the wyma.

Often, countertops are assembled without a wym on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic wrap. It will not work to assemble a good plank shield on the plaza: either it will come out slitted, or the boards will stand on end when assembled. But inlaid countertops from fragments are simply wonderful in skillful hands. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. - a tabletop made of sawing waste, tinted with wood stain. And on pos. 4-5, the base of the tabletop was the plaz itself made of thick plywood. Tiled and her fight is glued tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with drinking grout, the surface is lacquered and the contour is edged with a wooden lath.

Note: these examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making do-it-yourself inlaid art tabletops.

Underframe

The underframe of the table with non-removable legs is a simple wooden frame, on the left in fig. Niches and details of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/sliding, or heavy operational loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffeners in the center. If the legs are fastened with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the table top, so that a single power circuit is obtained, on the right in fig.

no frame

Tables without underframes are also known, in which the tabletop with legs work in a single carrier system. Very durable, eg. plywood table on the left in pic; its connections are shkantovye. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will go one piece for large sidewalls, and 1 more for smaller ones. The table on the right is already quite possible to make with your own hands: the supporting frame is prefabricated; connections - in a spike with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the countertop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right angles.

... and get into the kitchen

Exactly. The table for the kitchen is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country ones. It must already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average completeness; the width of the seat for 1 eater / rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; they are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in fig. Factory legs for tables, as a rule, are supplied with height-adjustable heels. The table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the nests of the legs with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% cheaper than the whole purchased one, but in appearance it will not yield, on the right in Fig.

If you are not too lazy to put your hands on it, steel legs can be made with your own hands. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of branded legs are cast from a rather fragile silumin, the fasteners weaken over time, they need to be tightened. You yourself can cut out nests from good steel, and weld your own legs into them.

The kitchen is more spacious, perhaps there is room for a larger table. In such a case - on the trail. rice. drawings of a kitchen table in a rustic style. "Rustic" this table is not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail and metal fasteners in general. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing such, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will have to rally the shields on the sidewalls, but in this case, the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

A table with a round top is appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But the table top made of boards in this case is not the best. the best way: due to the presence of sharp corners, it is without a frame, very complex and time-consuming, subject to splitting. Type-setting countertops from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; unlike laminate rounds, they are decorative, stylish, unique, and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a small-type table top, but here the “broom law” works. Not the American senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion of it at home, but the broom with which they sweep the rubbish. As you know, it is impossible to break him (a broom, not a senator) tied up, and a child will break twig after twig. So here, due to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, the table top made of them works like a solid plate, and you can cut it off after assembly even with the letter zyu.

Note: the idea of ​​the broom senator, sorry, Venik, was suggested by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world-famous as Mark Twain: “I affirm, and undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more fantasies than a bull. But not the bull that lows in the pasture, but the one that is the support of the bridge.

How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in fig; on the right there are the dimensions of the countertop and the assembly order. And in fig. on the right above - a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business card. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; glue assembly. Any kruglyash will go to the countertop, from a stump saw cut to a cardboard one, made according to the method of manufacturing cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (dvuhsotka board) or chipboard.

Moving on to the living room

The table in the main room of the house should be in line with the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves living space costs), the table should not catch the eye for the time being, and take up less space. Therefore, one of the most sought-after pieces of furniture of our days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, with all its transformations, remains a table, and does not turn into a closet or bed - a bedside table; it is quite possible to make it with your own hands "from scratch". There are 2 most common options here. On the left in fig. - the table is deployable, it has a record ratio of occupied areas in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By raising the wings one by one, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and fully extended (in the center), it will provide a place for a rather crowded banquet.

A bachelor living in a small apartment is more suitable for a folding bedside table, on the right in fig. These are, in essence, 2 small round folding tables, described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch alone from it folded, because, unlike the previous version, there is where to put your legs. And having unrolled, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or sincere gatherings with friends.

All of the above qualities combine coffee-dining tables-transformers with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables that are always tables, they basically come down to 2 types: an elevator (pantograph) and a book. How one and the other work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although much depends on the quality of execution. It is more popular among book lovers, because the mechanism-book can still be made independently, and the elevator outside the production environment is unlikely.

How the table-book is laid out is shown in stages in fig. on right. For its independent production, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. In fairly expensive branded designs, very soft gas dampers (gas lifts) are used, but it is better for an amateur to stop at a spring damper, and not because a gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the table top, underframe and the own weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened / loosened; v last resort replace. In general, an unsuccessful home-made transforming table with gas lifts rarely manages to be “brought to mind”, and spring almost always. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in fig. - drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the availability of or access to drilling, turning and milling machines for metal, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. factory same coffee table-transformer rarely when it pulls less than $200, so even in this situation the savings are significant.

The transformer table is made under the mechanism. One of the most popular are the Mazetti transformation mechanisms, thanks to good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti movements are available in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. The rest of the pos. in fig. show the device and the dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, but in a normal family with children, friends and relatives, crowded gatherings at the table cannot do without, and here the transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily because of the extension mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the halves of the table top (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable if properly executed, in addition to this, they can be made by yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic full extension guides, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the capacity of the table by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description of no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with clamshell inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when sliding / sliding the halves of the table top, the insert lifts, unfolds and puts in place or puts back in the underframe a very complex mechanism, but its manual versions are available for home production.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in computer desk, then they can by no means be called popular: leaning forward (and how to avoid this if the house is without servants?), We will get the board back in the underframe, and our portion of the treat - for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Recall that the table is not always pushed apart, and you can use the side table, but the whole table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of drawings below - a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and how it looks "live" - ​​see the left in fig. at the beginning.

In addition

A table, and indeed any furniture, often wants to be painted not just with stripes or artistically painted. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of updating the varnish if necessary, the paints should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by layer-by-layer rubbing of paints is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on wood glazing.

Video: wood glazing master class

A do-it-yourself kitchen table is both an opportunity to save money and a way to provide the kitchen with unique furniture that fits perfectly into the available space. However, it is important to correctly determine the dimensions and shape of the future structure.

How to make a wooden dining table

A table made of solid wood is beautiful, natural and, as a rule, expensive. But buying such a table is not necessary, because you can make it yourself with no less quality and for much less money.

So, to make a dining table with your own hands, you will need:

1. 4 things. baluster legs for the table, 73 cm high and not too thin;
2. For countertops: 4 dry edged wooden planks 1 m long (for a table 60 cm wide);

1. For the frame: 2 boards 80 cm long and 2 boards 40 cm long.

Prepare tools: planer, grinder or grinder, a jigsaw for cutting boards, a circular saw, a drill (with an 8 mm drill), a screwdriver, sandpaper, self-tapping screws (30 mm), wood glue, dowels, clamps (preferably). And, of course, a pencil, tape measure, gloves and goggles will come in handy.

To finish the table, you will need varnish, stain or paint along with a primer. Let's make the table first. To do this, you need to accurately fit all 4 boards to the same length - 100 cm. If your boards were not sawn at the sawmill, then they also need to be trimmed in width and thickness. Then they need to be carefully polished with a planer. The better you sand the wood, the smoother the countertop will be. Work the edges well so that the boards fit as tightly as possible to each other.

We will connect the boards not with screws and nails, but with glue and dowels (chops). To do this, we make the same marks on the edges of all boards in increments of 10-15 cm and drill holes for the dowels with an 8 mm drill. Then we sand the edges and apply wood glue to them and into the holes made. Now we drive the chopsticks processed with the same glue into the holes and connect all 4 bars in turn. We remove excess glue on the surface with sandpaper and grind it, as well as all edges with a planer. At this stage, you can go over the countertop with a metal sponge to give the wood texture.

So, the tabletop is ready. Now you need to fasten the legs and make a base for it.

To do this, you need to evenly fasten the balusters with short transverse boards with glue and screws. The glue dries for at least 12 hours.

We fasten the legs to the long crossbars and drill holes in them in order to install the countertop later.

After the glue in the frame dries, you can proceed to install the countertop on it (frame).

If you want to make the table longer and wider, then you need to strengthen the table with two additional cross bars, as shown in the photo.

So, the table is almost ready, it remains only to treat it with varnish or stain or paint it, having previously primed it.

What color to paint the table? Start from personal preferences and the color of the rest of the furniture. Below is the most versatile option - the table top and legs are stained.

You can see the main mistakes of staining a tree with your own hands in this video.

If you like gloss, then the surface of the table can be stained, and varnished on top (example in the photo below), or simply varnished.

You can paint the legs white, and stain the countertop to get a design like in the next photo.

How to make a kitchen table from chipboard

A do-it-yourself kitchen table made of laminated chipboard is a practical and budget solution. Such countertops are covered with decorative plastic, which is resistant to abrasion. In the typical version, the dimensions of the tabletop canvas are 3000x600x36 (26) mm, but today it will not be difficult to purchase a chipboard sheet sawn to the desired dimensions or negotiate in a furniture workshop to sell a suitable trim.

You will also need:

• Connecting and end strips;
• end edges;
• Ties.

Even if you buy a countertop suitable sizes, you will need to additionally process the ends - this will make the result more attractive, as well as protect the base from moisture. For these purposes, you can use a special furniture edging based on polyvinyl chloride or glue an edge tape. The edging option is considered more practical for a dining table and suitable for home craftsmen.

For the kitchen table, you will also need appropriate supports - you can buy the legs separately or give preference to the finished base. It all depends on which option your drawings provide. The most common option is round legs D = 60 mm and 71 cm high. They can be collapsible, adjustable in height, and also differ in design - matte, painted, shiny.

In our case, these will be shiny chrome-plated legs-rods with a diameter of 60 mm, as well as a tabletop made of white chipboard 36 mm thick and a white plastic mortise T-shaped edging with girths is matched to it.

So, how to make a dining table with a chipboard top:

1. The marking is applied to the material according to the drawing. Rounding corners must have a radius of 60 mm or more.

1. The tabletop is shaped with a jigsaw.

A saw with reversible teeth should be used, otherwise the plastic coating may be chipped. First, the corner of the chipboard is cut with a jigsaw with a margin of 2 mm, and then it is finally rounded off with a grinder.

1. A groove for furniture edging is milled.

1. The edging is stuffed. Before this, the ends of the product must be covered silicone sealant. The sealant is laid both in the edging and on the top side of the countertop. A rubber mallet is used to stuff the piping. Then the excess sealant is removed.

1. The legs are attached. For this with reverse side countertops are marked with a pencil. In most cases, the legs are placed 100 mm from the edge.

To fasten the holders, self-tapping screws with a countersunk head about 20 mm long are used. After that, the legs are put on the holders and fixed with a hex key - that's it, your new table is ready.

How to correctly determine the dimensions

According to the principles described above, tables can be made larger or smaller in length and width. How to choose the best size for your family?

If we are talking about a standard kitchen with dimensions from 6 to 8 squares, then the drawings will show a typical design with a height of 750 mm and a perimeter of 800 * 500 ... 1200 * 600 mm.

A do-it-yourself dining table should be calculated for a certain number of people. Usually it corresponds to the number of residents - 3-9, but a couple of free places are still added for guests. For large companies, a good solution will be.

Calculations are carried out as follows: the number of persons is multiplied by 60 (“working” perimeter per person). As for the width of the countertop, here we follow the recommendations of experts - its optimal values ​​​​are from 800 to 1100 mm. Narrow tables are difficult to serve, and wide tables are uncomfortable for those sitting.

If you decide to make the kitchen table oval (round) with your own hands, then you will have to calculate the circumference - diameter * 3.14.

Form Selection Rules

The shape of the kitchen table plays a significant role in the perception of space. Universal design - a rectangle or square with right angles. It is balanced and can be installed close to the wall or in the center of the room, saving space.

Oval models are also quite comfortable and beautiful, but they do not differ in large capacity - the most dimensional product will accommodate no more than 8 people. In addition, they require large areas - more than 8 square meters. meters, because you can’t put them against the wall.

It can also be called a universal and traditional option, suitable for both very and large kitchens. But it has less capacity than a rectangular table.

The best option is a rectangular table with rounded corners. How to make such a table from chipboard with your own hands, we have already described above.

Furniture care rules

After the dining table is made, you will need to take care of the long service life of the product.

So, furniture made of wood, polished and lacquered, needs careful care, as it can be easily scratched. In addition, traces of contact with hot are possible here. A universal polishing composition is selected as a basic wood care.

If we are talking about a countertop made of MDF or chipboard with a plastic coating, then caring for it is not difficult and consists in regular washing with detergents.

Do not forget that kitchen furniture you need to move away from heating appliances and from walls bordering the street. Harmful to wooden furniture there will be direct sunlight.

If you dream of having a good time on your personal plot, then you just need a large table that can accommodate a company of your friends and relatives. And you can do it yourself, spending quite a bit of time on it. In some cases, you may need an assistant, sometimes an extra pair of hands will not hurt.

This article is a detailed step-by-step instruction for making a wooden table for a summer residence.

So that you have a choice, we offer you four project options at once country table- two ordinary picnic tables, a table with benches, which are a single structural unit, and, finally, a round table. You must think through all the details in advance and choose the type and size of the table that suits your needs and matches the style of decoration of your backyard.

Folding picnic tables - mobility is paramount

Folding tables are very convenient, and most importantly, practical and simple. They don't take up much space. At any moment, such a table can neatly fit folded into the garage, and if necessary, move again to the street. Furniture mobility is especially appreciated in small areas.

How to make a garden wooden table with your own hands

A dacha is the place where a master wakes up in a person, a carpenter, a carpenter, a gardener, in general, a master. Buying furniture for a suburban area is a simple matter, but to do wooden table not everyone can do it with their own hands. You should immediately be ready to make a garden table with your own hands for several days. But the tips below will help you make a solid table yourself.

Today we will design a fairly simple country table with our own hands in Provencal style. Such tables not only look great, but also have quite robust design. It is worth paying attention to the boards. They must be even, since the appearance of our country table will directly depend on this.

When designing a table for a summer residence, it is necessary to prepare lumber in three dimensions:

• Bearing frame - section 38 X 90 mm.
• Tabletop - section 38 X 140 mm.
• Supporting bars - section 19 X 64 mm.

1. Drawing

Before starting work, the most important thing is to find it on the Internet, or to independently make drawings of a table for a summer residence with your own hands. An accurate schematic designation will allow you to select lumber that will be most suitable in cross section to the dimensions indicated on the diagram. It doesn’t matter if the dimensions don’t exactly match each other, because you can always make an adjustment with an electric planer.

1. Material preparation

When deciding how to make a garden wooden table, approach the issue responsibly, as the life of the furniture will depend on this:

• purchase of blanks. Professionals advise to purchase lumber from coniferous trees, which was previously well dried. Its main advantages are:
  • price;
  • simplicity and ease of processing by hand;
  • beautiful structure;
• glue for furniture;
• 4 X 65 mm screws;
• 3 mm drill;
• drill;
• tape measure, pencil, sandpaper for grinding.

1. Next steps

We will need:

• two upper transverse beams, dimensions 38 X 90 X 978 mm;
• four legs for a country table with your own hands, size 38 X 90 X 695 mm;
• two bowstrings - 38 X 90 X 921 mm;
• one longitudinal lower and one upper beam - 38 X 90 X 1575 mm and 38 X 90 X 1473 mm, respectively;
• two pieces of braces of 38 X 90 X 772 mm;
• blanks for countertops - seven pieces, size 38 X 90 X 2337 mm;
• six support bars - 19 x 64 x 432 mm.

Tip: Start work on a level surface. It is imperative to observe the angles of joining parts. The blanks, which will later become the legs of our country table, should be cut on both sides at an angle of 10 °. The slices must be parallel. But the blanks of the bowstring, which are similarly cut at the same angle, should be cut one towards the other.

Stage 2. The legs of our country table should be attached to the cross beams and fasten this entire structure with screws. Each connection has two screws.

Diagonally fasten the bowstring to the leg with inside, in the same way fastening the structure with two screws.

The lower beam must be connected to each other by both bowstrings. As mentioned above, with the help of screws.

Further, in the upper longitudinal and transverse beams, holes are first made for a fastener, called a dowel, after which we again diagonally connect the blanks of our country wooden table with the available screws.

Tip: when connecting all the elements, use glue for extra strength. Remove excess immediately.

We plant the braces on the screws.

Tip: workpieces intended for braces should first be cut at an angle of 45 degrees

Do-it-yourself blanks for the table top are fastened with screws to the transverse beams.

How to make a rectangular table for a summer residence

After developing a work plan and approving the drawings of a table for a summer residence, purchase all the materials needed for this project. Choose outdoor woods such as pine, cedar, mahogany, or pressed wood. When buying, check each board: they must be perfectly even and without any visible defects. Do not save on the quality of lumber, because your structure will have to withstand all the weather.

There are several important points, which you must take into account if you want the result to be of a high professional level. Do not forget about the accuracy of measurement and the use of professional tools when cutting boards and bars and drilling holes. To increase the reliability of the design, you can additionally use waterproof glue to fasten the parts. Round open edges with a router or sandpaper.

Attention! Sizes are converted from inches and may not match metric measurements. Choose lumber that is as close as possible in size. Or just customize yourself.

Tools needed to implement the project:

• hacksaw, jigsaw;
• milling cutter;
• drill and drills;
• chalk cord, tape measure, spirit level, pencil;
• safety goggles and gloves.

Time:

• From one day to a week, depending on the chosen project. If you have power tools at your disposal, you can finish the job even faster - in just a few hours.

Advice:

• A milling cutter will help smooth the edges of wooden bars and boards.
• Before screwing in screws and self-tapping screws, drill guide holes in the wooden structural elements.
• The heads of the screwed self-tapping screws should not protrude above the wooden surface, and for this the inlet parts of the holes must be countersinked.
• Do not use cracked or warped lumber.
• Do not apply excessive force when tightening the screws, otherwise the wood may crack.

DIY picnic table. Step-by-step instruction

Materials:

• A - Legs: bars 5×10 cm, 106 cm long (2 pcs.), 43 cm long (2 pcs.) and 56 cm long (2 pcs.);
• B - Frame: bars 5 × 10 cm, 87 cm long (2 pcs.);
• C - Table top: boards 5×15 cm, length 180 cm (6 pcs.);
• D - Table top base: boards 5x15 cm, length 87 cm (2 pcs.), bars 5x10 cm, length 62 cm (2 pcs.).

The first stage of the project is the manufacture of table legs. Saw off the bars of the required size. To speed up the process, you can use circular saw. Smooth out the edges of the bars and saw-off lines with sandpaper.

Connect the bars so that you get an X-shaped structure, and fasten them with 60 mm self-tapping screws, remembering to pre-drill the pilot holes. Lubricate the joints with glue. Make sure there are no cracks or gaps left.

Fasten each pair of legs with a horizontal bar using 60 mm self-tapping screws for this purpose. Cut off the ends of the bars, as shown in the figure.

Lay the boards intended for the manufacture of countertops on a flat surface. We advise you to place pieces of 6 mm plywood between them, this will allow you to form uniform gaps. Place the assembled table sides on the table top and secure them by screwing in the self-tapping screws at an angle of 90 mm. Before fixing, make sure that the legs and the tabletop are perpendicular using a spirit level.

Place the sawn pieces of 5x15 cm board on the underside of the table top and fix them with 60 mm self-tapping screws.

Saw off the ends of the bars, which will act as reinforcing supports for the structure, at an angle of 45º. Install the supports in their place and secure with 90mm self-tapping screws at an angle.

And finally, last but not least: check if the heads of the screws protrude above the wooden surface, and fill all the cracks and holes with wood putty.

Tip: To protect wood surfaces from the damaging effects of atmospheric moisture, coat them with several coats of exterior paint or stain.

Table with benches. Instruction with drawings

Materials:

• A - Legs: bars 5x10 cm, length 95 cm (4 pieces);
• B - Crossbeams: bars 5 × 10 cm long 160 cm (2 pcs.);
• C - Tabletop fastening: bars 5×10 cm, 75 cm long (5 pcs.);
• D - Inclined supports: bars 5 × 10 cm long 84 cm (2 pcs.);
• E - Worktop: boards 5×10 cm, length 180 cm (14 pcs.).

It is worth starting work with the manufacture of legs. Since the legs of this table will be inclined, the ends of the 100 cm long bars should be cut at an angle of 30º. Connect the elements with 90 mm bolts.

Make sure the surface you are working on is fairly level. The mounted sidewalls of the table must be identical, only in this case you can hope for an excellent end result.

When the sides of the table are ready, you can start making a wooden table top. We recommend that you put it together on the ground (floor), and then fasten it to the legs with self-tapping screws.

Tip: Don't forget to check the verticality of the side walls of the table with a spirit level, otherwise the end result of your work is unlikely to satisfy you.

Rigidly fix the entire structure with inclined supports. Their ends must first be cut at an angle of 26º.

Now it remains only to build benches. saw off the boards right size, place them on both sides of the table and, having previously drilled several pilot holes at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edges, secure with self-tapping screws.

Tip: To keep the seat boards evenly spaced, place studs or pieces of plywood between them before fixing them. Thanks to this little trick, all the gaps will be the same.

At the end of the work, pay attention to small, but very important touches. Fill all cracks and holes with wood putty. After the putty has dried, sand the wooden surfaces with medium-grit sandpaper.

Tip: Be sure to apply several coats of paint or stain to protect wood surfaces from water and sunlight.

Round table. We do it on our own in the country

Materials:

• A - Base: a bar 5x10 cm long 102.5 cm (1 piece) and a length 47 cm (2 pieces), bars 2.5x10 cm long 9 cm (4 pieces);
• B - Racks: bars 10 × 10 cm, 60 cm long (4 pcs.);
• C - Tabletop base: 5x10 cm bars 82.5 cm long (1 pc.) and 52.5 cm long (2 pcs.), 2.5x10 cm bars 47.5 cm long (4 pcs.) and 60 cm long (2 pcs.) ;
• D - Tabletop: boards 2.5×15 cm long 195 cm (9 pcs.).

The first stage of the project is to create the base of the table. To articulate its constituent elements, use waterproof glue and self-tapping screws. Make sure that the corners formed by the joined beams are straight. To protect the assembled table base from rotting from rainwater, place it on small stands made from 2.5x10 cm board scraps.

Now you need to attach four posts made of square bars to the base. Before fixing, make sure they are vertical with a spirit level. The height of the legs may differ from those proposed by us, in this case, you should, first of all, focus on your own needs.

The most difficult stage of the project is the manufacture of countertops. Place the boards on a flat surface and mark the center of the square. Fasten one end of a 60 cm rail at this point. Rotating the second end of the rail, mark the outlines of the circle. A jigsaw with a sharp blade will allow you to make circular cuts at a high professional level.

After cutting the boards of the future countertop, we recommend that you fasten them together waterproof glue and additionally fix with a few clamps. Attach the bars that serve as the base of the tabletop, as shown in the picture (yellow elements should be made from 5x10 cm bars, green - from 2.5x10 cm bars).

Tip: Use waterproof glue and galvanized self-tapping screws (30mm self-tapping screws for 2.5x10cm bars and 50mm screws for 5x10cm bars) to attach the bars to the countertop.

After the glue has dried, you must attach the legs to the base of the tabletop with 90mm self-tapping screws, pre-drilling pilot holes. Use a spirit level to check the perpendicularity of the legs and the tabletop.

To ensure that the result of your work corresponds to a high professional level, make sure that the heads of the self-tapping screws are recessed deep enough. Cover all cracks and holes with wood putty, after it dries, sand the surface with sandpaper.

Tip: Apply several coats of outdoor paint or wood stain to protect the table from moisture damage. To ensure that the base legs are also untouched by water, place the table on concrete surface and seal them tightly.

Now you know how to make your own picnic table. One has only to make a little effort, which will subsequently be rewarded with enthusiastic exclamations of friends and pleasant summer evenings spent with the family at a large table.

An indispensable thing in any interior is a kitchen table. This attribute of furniture can perform many functions. Tables can be not only dining. For example, using a table like a bar counter, you can successfully divide the space of the room. At the same time, it will also fulfill its intended purpose. You can get acquainted with many similar ideas from the photo of the kitchen table in any catalog.

The type and purpose of the table depends solely on the wishes and needs of the owner. To date, a huge range of furniture is on sale, from which you can choose the appropriate option.

But if you want to save money or strive to be original, you can make furniture yourself. Therefore, we will consider what and how you can make a kitchen table with your own hands.

Varieties of kitchen tables

If you decide to make a table yourself, you must first preparatory work. Preparatory stage provides for the choice of style, shape, size of the future product. It is also necessary to calculate and prepare the place of its installation. If the table is built-in, consider mounting options.

There are many types of tables, for example, the following:

• classic;
• corner;
• transformers;
• retractable;
• folding.

In the tables you can make cabinets or drawers. When choosing the type and size of the table, you should focus primarily on the size of the kitchen, the purpose of the future product, as well as the style in which the room is equipped.

In a kitchen of small area, it would be appropriate to use a folding, corner, bar table. Any ideas how to make a kitchen table are welcome. Thanks to this solution, a significant amount of space is saved.

To save space and ensure the functionality of furniture, it is recommended to use transforming tables. A small table that folds out into a large dining table does two things at once.

A great idea to save space in the kitchen are tables that slide out of the kitchen set. And the option of a bar counter is suitable as a division of space in big kitchen or studio apartment.

Material selection

For the manufacture of classic version dining table is perfect natural wood(oak, walnut). Inexperienced craftsmen are advised to choose pine boards, as they are easier to process. Such furniture will give the interior luxury and elegance. But it is worth remembering that wooden products require special care.

The most popular material for making furniture is chipboard. Its main advantage is affordable price. But when purchasing it from an unverified manufacturer, one cannot be sure of the safety of the material.

MDF can be considered a more reliable and safe material from this category. You can also purchase special furniture boards.

For the kitchen table, metal is allowed, it is better to choose stainless steel. metal furniture differs in durability. But such a product will cost a lot, you will also need to use tablecloths.

Making a wooden table

Before starting work, prepare a drawing of the kitchen table and necessary tools. Legs are better to buy ready-made. To make a countertop, the width of which will be 80 cm, dry boards 1 meter 20 centimeters long are needed.

Each board is sanded so that the edges are perfectly even, and there are no voids at the junction. Connect the prepared boards with dowels. Lay them towards the drawings to avoid deformation.

According to the instructions on how to make a kitchen table, holes must be made at the end of each board, the distance between which should be no more than 15 centimeters.

Attach the table legs to the base with screws. Make holes for mounting the tabletop in each longitudinal board. The tabletop can be fixed to the base after twelve hours, when the glue dries. The finished table needs to be painted or varnished on its surface.

Note!

DIY kitchen tables photo

Note!

Note!