The kitchen has long ceased to be just a cooking area. Now they receive guests here or relax after preparing complex recipes. Therefore, the presence of upholstered furniture is not considered something unusual, but on the contrary, it expands the visual and functional capabilities of the room. How to choose the right model, where to place it? In this article, we will try to answer these and other questions related to buying a sofa for the kitchen.
Straight sofas
The traditional version, which has a simple and convenient form. It may seem to someone that such a sofa is too bulky for the kitchen, but by choosing the right model, you can fit it into a space with any layout.
Two-three-seat furniture, endowed with small sizes. Even in spacious rooms it is recommended to choose compact views so that they do not take too much attention in the interior of the kitchen. To provide more seating, it is better to combine with several chairs on both sides. Stationary sofas can be placed in any part or used for zoning.
A laconic version, created by the type of an ordinary bench. Often it does not have armrests, which only visually simplifies the design. The sofa can be designed in a minimalist way or decorated with forged elements. The presence of upholstery and textiles eliminates the possible "street" image.
"Bench" is more suitable for the dining area, next to the table. Such an item does not look as bulky as standard sofas and will fit well into a small kitchen. There are also types with drawers under the seats in which you can store kitchen utensils.
Such a model is usually part of a furniture set, forming a single monolith with a cabinet. In fact, this is a design of drawers with a seat, installed against a wall or window. A great option for modern kitchens that prioritize functionality.
In addition to the obvious practicality of the solution, the visual unity of the furniture allows you to create a holistic design that does not split the space into many details.
In small spaces, an extra bed will never be superfluous, especially if it can be “disguised” as a cozy sofa in the kitchen. Collapsible models are often as comfortable for sleeping as beds, but they save space.
Unfortunately, to put such a structure next to dining table will not work, but it can become part of the recreation area - next to bookcase or in front of the TV. Perfect for a studio apartment.
It is far from always possible to find a free corner in the kitchen space to place upholstered furniture there. But if there is such an opportunity, corner sofas will help transform the room and make the most of every square meter.
Such models may include storage or have a minimalist design, like a bench. The optimal solution is an instance with three seats and drawers on the sides, which are convenient to use next to the table.
If the kitchen has a bay window, you can purchase a sofa that adapts to its geometry. True, they are easier to make to order than to look for a product with suitable sizes.
Curved corner furniture is much less common. On the one hand, it takes up more space. On the other hand, it smoothes the corners and makes the area visually “friendly”. But the most important thing is that such a solution looks non-standard, helping to diversify the design.
Where to place the sofa in the kitchen?
The location of the sofa depends on its purpose, the furniture set and the geometry of the kitchen. It is necessary to think over the layout so that the object does not interfere with free movement, but at the same time is located in a convenient place for residents.
Straight models can be installed along a free wall or under windows, and corner models, respectively, put in a corner. If the kitchen set includes an island countertop, a small sofa will look good on the opposite side of the work area. However, even a stand-alone product will fit into a spacious interior and help with zoning.
With narrow geometry, it is recommended to place kitchen furniture along one wall, and a table and a compact sofa along the other. This solution is more profitable than chairs, which only split up the space, and can be used as storage.
In a kitchen with a large area, the sofa does not have to be combined with the dining room, as it is suitable for the relaxation area. Very narrow room it will not seem like a disadvantage if at the end along the walls you put two seats opposite each other - an image inspired by the romance of cafes or trains.
Materials and upholstery
Due to the close proximity to the kitchen, increased demands are made on the materials of the sofa. It is necessary to take into account temperature changes, high humidity, as well as the possibility of a drop of fat or food.
The most stylish and practical option for a frame is durable woods, which include beech, oak or cheaper pine. At the same time, a special varnish coating will protect their surface from the negative effects of the environment. But you can always pick up a budget look, for example, chipboard. Just keep in mind that the service life of such an alternative is small - about five years.
As upholstery, traditional leather has no competition. It has aesthetics, a variety of colors, as well as practicality, does not absorb odors and is easy to clean. What can not be said about natural fabrics. Cotton, linen, silk modifications are not suitable for the kitchen, as they are difficult to clean. But the same textile is acceptable as a cover: it can be removed for washing or replaced, thereby updating the design inexpensively.
In the matter of visual design, it is necessary to focus on the chosen style. We only note that the sofa can become a bright accent or merge with the space. Pillows in the kitchen are extremely rare, but their presence will only “enliven” the situation.
Style decisions
Even the smallest sofa is a noticeable part of the interior, so you need to responsibly approach its design, taking into account the patterns of style. It concerns decorative elements And design features models.
In the kitchen at classical style a huge role is played by subject composition when a central object is chosen, around which the interior is built. Stationary large sofa made of wood with beautiful texture and carving may well qualify for this role if the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is large enough. In this version, leather upholstery or textiles with a discreet pattern will look great.
For a more modern interpretation of the classics, you can opt for corner or combined options with storage places - here other items will help create the desired impression of the model.
The coating may have a natural texture or be painted white. Color solution should reflect the overall palette of the room.
In such an interior, you can fit a model of any design: from a sofa with curves to standard compact items. The origin of the material is not important, its practical properties and beautiful texture are much more important.
Plain textiles, in harmony with curtains or another part of the interior, will look more appropriate than richly decorated fabrics. It is recommended to select natural light shades that will create the most comfortable atmosphere.
This direction is characterized by snowy colors, the dominance of natural coatings, minimalism, but at the same time - real comfort. Laconic sofas with leather upholstery will look very natural and light.
The inhabitants of the Nordic countries demonstrate their unique approach to the creation of objects, making them as practical, functional and affordable as possible. Models with built-in drawers of any geometry and a woolen blanket as a style accent will fit into this concept.
The industrial style loves the concept of open-space, which implies the absence of partitions between the main areas, maximum comfort and a large number of seats.
In such a multifunctional room, it would be quite appropriate to look at a large sofa next to kitchen set acting as a place of rest. It can also serve as a partition, dividing the kitchen and living room.
To maintain an authentic interpretation of style, it is recommended to opt for a leather upholstered design or purchase an antique piece. The presence of small traces of time will give the object depth.
High-tech style requires appropriate solutions. Ideally, corner models with bends, benches or other options will fit into such an interior. unusual shapes. In this case, the coating can be glossy, and the upholstery can be leather.
Since a high-tech kitchen is often built on contrasting shades, you can choose a sofa in white, gray, brown or even black.
At first glance, it may seem that a sofa for a small kitchen is too bulky and completely unnecessary element that will only take precious square meters. But in some situations, this is a more profitable purchase than a few chairs or armchairs. The following tips will help you choose the right model:
1. Corner Views although they save space, it is rarely possible to find a free corner in small spaces. In this case, straight sofas along the wall are perfect.
2. Ideally, if you manage to put it under the window, since other objects will not fit here besides it.
3. Try to select options with a minimum number of details. Less attention will be attracted by a sofa without armrests and pillows. But the best solution would be wall-mounted structures that do not form a gap.
4. With enough storage, it is better to stay on a sofa-bench with free space under the seats.
5. A sofa in a small kitchen should not stand out in color. It is better if it merges with the wall, forming a monolithic volume with it.
A beautiful sofa in the kitchen is comfortable, cozy and aesthetically pleasing. A variety of assortment allows you to choose a model for any interior, even the smallest. How else can you fit upholstered furniture into space - see our selection of colorful photos. Real projects will definitely push you to a good solution. Enjoy watching!
A sofa is a convenient and very comfortable type of furniture. Perhaps that is why it has become so popular. Now in furniture stores there are many varieties and models, but, unfortunately, it is not always possible to find exactly what you want to buy and what will best fit into the image of your interior. Also, it is not always possible to find a suitable ratio of price, quality and design. In this regard, there is a desire to make a sofa for the kitchen on your own, focusing on exactly the style and design in which the rest of the kitchen has already been completed.
At first glance, the idea seems not only a little feasible, but even a pipe dream. However, it is worth paying attention to the fact that any specific materials, accessories and tools are not required for its implementation.
As soon as you manage to understand this, then worldly ingenuity, knowledge and skill come to the rescue, and in this case it is enough to enlist the support of knowledge and, as a result, get the object of your undeniable pride - the kitchen sofa of your dreams. An important plus will be that you will know with absolute certainty all the materials from which it is made, and you will also be able to choose exactly the functionality that you need. It is also worth noting that the financial side of the issue in this case also wins, since the costs will be commensurately less than the options that can be purchased in the store.
Where to begin
First of all, you should decide on appearance sofa, which I would like to get as a result. You should not overly complicate the design and introduce creative elements that are complex in execution, because not everything can be done at the proper level at home. It is worth stopping at a simple but convenient option that will delight you and your guests.
A standard sofa should have a frame resting on legs; roller mechanisms can also be used. The design with folding seats gives access to niches that can be used as drawers. At the same stage, you need to decide how soft the sofa you want, what color scheme and upholstery material should be, in order to make it easy to clean in the future.
You need to be very careful when planning the size of the future sofa, since the dimensions should be commensurate with the place that it should take. It is necessary to make all measurements in advance and prepare a drawing for the manufacture of furniture.
If this is your first experiment in making furniture at home, then you should stop at the folding version, and not at the manufacture of the corner. The rectangular shape of a sofa with legs is much easier to make, and it is much more difficult to make a mistake in size calculations.
The frame can be made of timber, for this, pine rocks are better suited, which are fastened with screws. To avoid the formation of longitudinal cracks, it is worth placing fasteners at different levels. To make the structure as strong as possible, the bars should be screwed to the corners of the frames, which have a cubic shape.
Screws will act as fasteners, since they are most convenient to fix wooden structure. The bottom of the sofa, like the seat covers, is best made from plywood.
Frame materials
For the manufacture of a sofa, no specific materials are required; you can get by with ordinary bars and plywood sheets. As a decor and as closing elements, you can use a laminated chipboard (LDSP). Chipboard can be matched to the color of the kitchen facades, then you can get a single ensemble.
It’s worth starting with the development of a drawing and a project, which takes into account all the details and dimensions, the angle of the backrest, the height of the legs, as well as the overall dimensions of the structure as a whole. The main load will fall on the legs and on the back, it is worth considering and making the base more durable. For work, it is better to choose a beam with a small cross-sectional size of 60x60 mm, and plywood sheets should be taken moisture resistant with a thickness of 12 mm or more. These materials are popular and can be easily found in the hardware stores of your city at fairly affordable prices. As fasteners, it is worth using screws and steel corners to stiffen the structure. For work, you will also need a saw and a screwdriver.
upholstery materials
Upholstery should be made using foam rubber, synthetic winterizer and upholstery fabric. The thickness of the material should be calculated from the fact that when using 5 cm foam rubber, the seat will turn out to be semi-rigid. When choosing a fabric, you should pay attention that we are assembling a sofa for the kitchen, so the material should be well tolerated by frequent cleaning and washing. However, there is another option, this is to make additional covers with zippers, which can be removed if necessary, in which case it will be convenient to wash them in the washing machine.
Also, the idea with covers can be used in the future to update the interior, especially since it is much less troublesome than starting a reupholstery of the entire sofa. All wooden elements should be sanded and coated or varnished if you want to preserve the texture of wood or paint in a suitable color.
Assembly instructions
- It’s worth starting with the preparation of the frame elements. Using tools, cut the bars in accordance with the drawings. At this stage, it is worth treating all visible parts with a stain or paint of your choice.
- The frame is formed using screws, for a stronger connection, you can use wood glue, it is non-toxic and well suited for our chosen pine species.
- Having made the frame, you can proceed to the installation of the back of the structure. For fixation, you can use metal corners. It is also worth remembering that the vertical position of the backrest is undesirable, as it is not ergonomic.
- The seat should be made from sheets of plywood, from which right size covers. If you plan to use the free space under the sofa for the purpose of storing things, then you should think about the possibility of free access to it. The lids can be fixed with hinges, in which case they will recline in a direction convenient for you, but at the same time remain fixed.
- The bench and backrest should be made of soft materials that can independently maintain their shape and do not wrinkle or deform during operation. The most optimal would be the choice of foam rubber or its analogue polyurethane foam, you can also use a synthetic winterizer. These materials have elasticity, flexibility, and the last of them, among other things, is not as hygroscopic as others, which is of no small importance for the kitchen. In order to obtain the best result, you can combine materials as you wish. In order to fix the filler, you can use glue, this will prevent shifting.
- If your design implies the presence of armrests, what should be covered with soft materials and them.
- For sheathing, leather, leatherette or tapestry is suitable. Here you are limited by your imagination and the financial side of the issue. The material is pre-cut, the edges should be processed to prevent shedding and spreading of the fabric. The cut sheathing elements are attached to the structure using a construction stapler or staples can be hammered. First you need to sand everything wooden surfaces and the corners that will be in contact with the fabric in order to avoid abrasion and prevent future tears.
The sheathing process is not difficult, you can even do without the help of others, the main thing is to be careful, take your time and follow all safety precautions. It should be remembered that if the fabric is stretched too much, it will wear out faster, and if the tension is insufficient, the appearance will suffer.
Assembling a small sofa in the kitchen with your own hands is an opportunity not only to show your inclinations home master but also do a pleasant surprise your loved one, give her the opportunity to comfortably relax while cooking.
The main advantages of making a sofa with your own hands: significant cost savings, the ability to set the necessary design parameters.
The design of folding sofas is too complicated for self-production, so consider simple options- straight and corner sofas without moving elements. At first glance, the structure of such furniture is very complex, but if you remove the upholstery and fittings from factory-made sofas, you can see that they are arranged very simply, using a minimum of details.
The choice of materials for the frame
Most furniture, including kitchen sofas, are made from chipboard, but they are quite inconvenient for home use, as they are difficult to cut without the use of special tools. Therefore, to make sofas for the kitchen with your own hands, it is recommended to use a carpentry board - a wide board, which is made by gluing several elements of solid wood together in width and length. The standard thickness of such material is 18 mm, which gives a sufficient margin of safety and makes it easy to cut it to the right sizes conventional saw or electric jigsaw. The ends of the carpentry shield, with the proper degree of grinding, do not need to be glued additional materials and can be covered with several layers of varnish.
To interconnect the main structural elements, small-section bars are used - from 15x15 to 40x40 mm, depending on the purpose. They have good strength and elasticity and excellent weight distribution.
Additional connecting elements - dowels, confirmatory screws, metal corners and piano hinges will help to reliably and easily assemble all the components of the sofa together.
An approximate list of materials that will be useful to you when creating a sofa body looks like this:
- joiner's board, thickness from 18 to 25 mm;
- bars of different sections - from 15x15 to 40x40 mm;
- sheet plywood, 10-12 mm thick;
- metal corners;
- confirmation screws;
- wooden dowels;
- wood glue.
The number of components may vary, depending on the model of the sofa.
Upholstery material selection
When it comes to the kitchen sofa, the image of a soft and comfortable corner arises in the imagination, where you can relax while cooking, sit with family or friends over festive table, or just relax with an interesting book after a hard day's work. In order to bring this to life, it will be important to choose the material of its upholstery so that it is comfortable to sit on it. An additional selection criterion is non-staining and ease of cleaning. The category of such materials includes natural and artificial leather, leatherette, as well as various synthetic fabrics. Genuine leather looks very beautiful, it is practical and easy to clean, but its price is high enough that it is not recommended to risk using it for a homemade sofa. It is best to opt for artificial leather substitutes, since their color range is very wide, and the texture is almost the same as genuine leather.
As a filler for upholstery, a traditional material is used - foam rubber, 4-5 cm thick. For the backrest, a filler of a smaller thickness is used - 3-4 cm.
In the production of foam rubber in accordance with modern technologies, we get at the output a material that is particularly reliable, does not cake over time and has good elasticity. It is easy to work with it, give any shape, cut to the desired size.
Designing the construction of a kitchen sofa
Figure 1. Overall dimensions of the kitchen corner sofa.
Designing a kitchen sofa should begin with the choice of its design. If you are not confident in your skills, we recommend starting with a simple straight sofa, as it is much easier to create compared to corner models. At any time, it can be supplemented with a corner component and another small side seat and turned into a full-fledged corner sofa.
The main components of the sofa of the simplest design are:
- two sidewalls, they are also part-time and armrests, if any are provided for by the design;
- seat;
- back;
- the back and front walls of the box to which the seat is attached.
On the net you can find a large number of drawings of sofas - from the simplest, to angular and horseshoe-shaped. When choosing a model, you should take into account the parameters of the place where the sofa will be installed, so that its back does not rest against the window sill, and the sides fit into the space between the rest of the furniture. Standard sizes most factory-made models are:
- height - 850-860 mm;
- depth - 620 mm;
- length - 1300-1700 mm (Fig. 1).
Assembling a sofa for the kitchen
You should start creating a sofa by marking all the details. Sidewalls can be made of any, even the most bizarre shape, the main thing is to correctly draw them on a carpentry board and cut them out with a saw or an electric jigsaw.
Sidewalls will be connected to each other wooden beams- 4 pieces with a section of 40x40 mm run parallel to each other. Sidewalls are attached to these bars. Bars of a smaller section - 20x20 or 30x30 in the amount of 3 pieces are located parallel to the future back of the sofa, a plywood sheet is attached to them, which will become the basis of the back.
The seat, front and back walls are connected to four thick bars, forming the basis of the sofa.
Before starting the assembly of all elements among themselves, you must first do it in the sidewalls through holes for confirmed screws, and in the bars - holes with a diameter of 4.5-5 mm and a depth of 50 mm.
Such conditions provide the most reliable fastening. wooden parts among themselves, since the standard used confirmation with a thread diameter of 7 mm tightly cuts into such a hole.
Types of sofa upholstery: a - soft and upholstery material, b - cutting, c - the order of upholstery and constriction.
If you complicate the design of the sofa a little by adding a bottom and making the seat folding, then in the resulting space you can easily store kitchen utensils, small appliances, blanks or other necessary things. In this case, the cover is not fixed, but is connected with the help of piano hinges to the rear beam.
Similarly, the design can be converted into a corner one by adding a small (120-130 cm) sofa, which adjoins the main sofa at an angle of 90 °.
To give a finished and neat look to the product will help the corner section, which plays the role of a connecting element between the two parts of the sofa.
When all preparations for assembly are completed, you can begin to connect the parts together, but before that you need to upholster the sofa, since it is very inconvenient to do this when assembled, and sometimes completely impossible.
Kitchen sofa upholstery
The upholstery of the sofa is made using a furniture stapler and staples to it.
If you have never worked with this tool before, then you need to be extremely careful, as the staples fly out with great speed and force, as a result of which serious injuries can be caused.
The stapler can be replaced with special upholstery nails, but their use requires some effort.
To get started, take the board to be upholstered and lay it down. front side on the floor. Cut off a suitable piece of upholstery fabric with a margin of 10-15 cm on each side. Using a furniture stapler, secure the upholstery fabric along one of the long sides of the board, then turn it over and place a sheet of foam rubber cut to the size of the seat under the fabric. Turn the board over again, wrap the rest of the fabric on the reverse side, pull it tight and secure with staples or upholstery nails around the perimeter with a gap of 1-2 cm. Repeat the sequence of operations for the back of the sofa.
In a similar way, you can finish the armrests using small strips and the remains of foam rubber and upholstery fabric.
Sofa for the kitchen - incredibly comfortable and practical solution which is suitable for any interior. With very little effort, you can create your own kitchen sofa that will fully satisfy your needs for relaxation and comfort. The materials for its creation are available to everyone, and the assembly time is more than offset by the pride that you did everything yourself.
Without a kitchen corner - a corner sofa in addition to and, chairs or a bench - modern life is already unthinkable. Making a kitchen corner with your own hands makes sense not only for the sake of saving money: not every model for sale will definitely fit into a free corner of the kitchen, and one that is suitable in size may not fit in design or price. A kitchen corner piece of furniture is not a difficult one, but a novice craftsman, not properly equipped with rather expensive equipment, is on the way to turning it into a product stumble upon many pitfalls. This article is about how to get around them and still make a corner in the kitchen at home, not inferior to the factory one.
Note: the secret of comfort that the kitchen corner creates is in its aesthetic self-sufficiency. A corner sofa with a table and stools / bench is a self-zoned piece of furniture, it will create an area of calm and well-being, a kind of virtual bay window or alcove, and in an open field or barn.
What to do
Make a kitchen corner possible in different types execution. The main requirements for a kitchenette are compactness, convenience (ergonomics) and hygiene in the kitchen. We still need to achieve maximum savings in money, materials and labor by working with a public tool. Based on this, we will choose which of them can be made easier and better.
The main types of kitchen corners are shown in the photo. Pos. 1 - bay window corner, round or faceted. Each rider at the level of the knees is given optimal width seat ok. 400-450 mm. The bay window is extremely comfortable and cozy, but, alas, it is complicated, expensive and requires an extensive kitchen.
A semi-bay corner will fit in the kitchen of a modern apartment above the middle class: the side sections are straight, and the width of the corner at the level of the knees is 200-300 mm, pos. 2. It is almost as convenient for a person of average build to sit in the corner of a half-window corner as in a bay window. In a kitchen of ordinary dimensions, corners with a beveled corner are most often placed instead of half-windows; in them, the knees of the rider account for 150-200 mm, pos. 3. You won’t turn around much anymore, but, sitting quietly, there are no thoughts of where to put your knees.
Lovers in a small kitchen most often make the corners straight, pos. 4, with a back wedge in the corner, pos. 5, and with a beveled back, pos. 5. Their convenience, technological complexity and cost increase in this row, but straight kitchen corners have a common positive property: if instead of a pair of stools on the long side of the kitchen table, the bench is the same height as the corner seats, then, moving the table and moving the bench, you can get a bed with a width of 600-850 mm. Very expensive and equipped with complex mechanisms, branded kitchen nooks with a berth are not at all more convenient, see fig. left. The corner with a beveled corner also has the property of transforming into a sleeping place without additional devices, if the seat angles of the complete bench acc. beveled in a way.
Note: in fig. on the right, a twisted offspring of modern marketing—an expensive straight kitchen nook. In fact, a straight corner is the most uncomfortable of all. Much more inconvenient than the closest relative - a corner with a wedge in the back. A straight kitchen corner is well suited except to put an unwanted guest in the corner. But he will not be able to leave in English, he will have to push the hosts away.
Corners with a beveled corner and a back are often complemented by a table and / or a bar in the corner, pos. 7-9. The first two are not an option: getting something from behind your back is inconvenient, and it’s easy to push or overturn inadvertently. If the owners are already firmly subject to prejudices and do not want to put anyone in a corner, then it is better to equip a mini sideboard with a chest and a bar in the corner, as in pos. nine.
At pos. 6, 7 and 8 show the corners with the so-called. hanging angle, i.e. without a separate support. Kitchen corners with hanging corners made of laminated chipboard are no less strong and durable than those with support ones, but they are cheaper and more technologically advanced in production. However, they cannot be modular (see below), because initially performed only right or left. For the consumer, their apparent cheapness, because. Hanging Angle cannot be transported assembled and must be assembled on site.
modular corners
Kitchen corners from unconnected pieces of furniture (modular, see fig.) are good in production and sale: there is no need to make right and left executions. They are also appreciated by those who often rearrange furniture; modular kitchen corners look good in studio apartments of laconic styles, such as loft, high-tech, minimalism. But functional with ergonomics in modular kitchen corners, simply put, none - you can’t put anything in them, and it’s uncomfortable to sit in the corner.
Note: traditional kitchen corners are also made modular, from 3 separate items - a pair of sofas and a corner. They are placed right or left, turning the corner by 90 degrees, and one of the sofas by 180. However, such corners are more expensive, because. extra material is required per corner and its design becomes more complicated. It is very difficult to make a modular kitchen corner at home, because. to the required accuracy of pairing of parts within the 1st item (see below), the accuracy of pairing of objects with each other is added.
Do's and Don'ts
The first mistake when designing a kitchen corner is a table with legs and straight fronts of seats, pos. 1 in fig. The secret of comfort and self-zoning of the kitchen corner is its compactness and convenience, but here you can’t really move the table, and its legs get tangled in the knees of 3 people sitting. A corner for the kitchen must be made under the table of a beam-panel structure, pos. 2 and 3, and the seat fronts are either sloping (pos. 2) or with raised chest bottoms under the seats, pos. 3.
The second mistake - do not make drawers under the seats, pos. 4 and 5. They interfere with each other, spoil the floor. To get to the contents of the boxes, you need to move the table far away and kneel. If the house is maintained by a maid with a housekeeper, and the owner does not care about their worries, then a kitchen corner with drawers is a matter of taste. And for ourselves we need to make a corner in the kitchen with chests under folding or removable seats.
For business!
Which corner of the kitchen suits you best is up to you. And here we will see what difficulties you will have to face when making it at home without experience, and how to deal with them. The analysis will be based on the example of a well-known structure in Runet, the drawings of which are given below; the main materials are laminated and plain sanded chipboard 16 mm thick.
On the one hand, this corner requires minimal materials, labor and can be made much more convenient, see below. On the other hand, the prototype is focused on industrial technology, its design is rational and well developed, but we need to get a product no worse by assembling it at home on our knees and on weight. It was this sample that was also chosen because it is able to acquire everything best qualities a corner with a bevelled corner, plus the ability to serve as a bed, but technologically it is not much more complicated than a right corner. In addition, it has a generally correct specification with bills of material and fittings, see fig. on right.
Note: if you check / navigate according to other sources with descriptions of this sample, keep in mind - in part of them, and considerable, in the drawings of parts, the dimensions are given mixed for sofas 100 and 60 cm long. It is, of course, impossible to assemble the blanks cut out on them into the product.
For example, in the top row of Fig. with the drawings, assembly diagrams are given, clear as day to a factory technologist. But what to do with them without having production equipment? The sample under consideration is a shield box-shaped structure, similar to the load-bearing structure with load-bearing skin in the aircraft industry. Box-panel structures save material and labor as much as possible, resulting in very durable products, but a number of specific requirements are imposed on the technology of their manufacture. There are a lot of invisible tricks here, but you can deal with them, and we will do it. First for sofas, in this order:
- Selection of fasteners;
- Adjustment of sizes for a specific room;
- Cutting chipboard and chipboard into blanks, marking and drilling holes;
- Trimming edges of beveled parts and edging;
- Upholstery of parts for which it is required with soft lining;
- Assembly.
Next, let's see how you can simplify the manufacture of the corner section (corner) and make it more convenient. The original design is modular, but in our apartment the corners of the walls do not change places by themselves. Knowing exactly where the corner will stand, whether it will be right or left, the corner can be made hanging (see below), and this will greatly simplify and reduce the cost of work.
fasteners
The main fasteners of this kitchen corner, which perceive operational loads, are confirmatory furniture screws and steel corner connectors; dowels play a supporting role, keeping parts from moving. The specification above gives a list of fittings for assembly in industrial environment, but for home performance, something in it will have to be changed.
Note: in products made of laminated chipboard and chipboard, it is rarely possible to replace confirmations with wood screws to connect parts through the face to the edge. In this product - in no case is it possible, because. boards are very thin, 16 mm. Connecting corners are attached to the parts with wood screws, see below.
Confirmates
The standard size of confirmations 7x50 specified in the specification is the maximum allowable for a given thickness of chipboard / chipboard. This makes it possible to transport the corner modules in assembled form and reduce its cost somewhat, because. there is no need for on-site assembly, and any of the modules is brought into the apartment by a person with the physical development of an office type. But marking and drilling for the thickest fasteners also require production accuracy (see below), which cannot be achieved by working at home with your hands. For example, can you, using a hand-held electric drill, feed the drill perpendicular or parallel to the face of the board with a side deviation of no more than 0.1 mm? The question is rhetorical. Therefore, under manual work provided that the product will not be transported over long distances with shaking and jolts, the standard size of confirmations must be reduced to 6x50 or even 5x60. Otherwise, i.e. if you take fasteners according to industrial specifications, some of the parts may delaminate during drilling or assembly. If chipboard / chipboard are taken from environmentally friendly grades E0 or E1, then it will definitely delaminate, so chipboard / chipboard should be taken household grade E2, and if you want E0 / E1, then the thickness of the boards should be increased to 24/20 mm, adjusting accordingly. dimensions, see below.
Important for the strength of the connection with confirmations is the height of the screw neck H, see pos. 1 in fig. H must exactly equal the thickness of the overlay board, on the right in pos. 1. Sometimes H is indicated by the 3rd digit in the name of the screw size, i.e. you will need confirmations 6x50x16 or 5x60x16 for the original design or 6x50x24 / 6x50x20 or 5x60x24 / 5x60x20 in case of using boards of greater thickness.
A drill for confirmations must be taken exactly for a given screw size. The height of its skirt should be equal to H (in the center at pos. 1), the diameter should be equal to the diameter of the screw body without thread, and the length of the helical part of the drill L (without cutting tip) should be equal to the full length of the threaded part of the screw. If the heel of the screw rests against the residual conical hole in the hole, then hidden delamination in thin boards is guaranteed, and its propagation outward is only a matter of time. Small.
Dowels
In all sources on the topic of the kitchen corner in question, with enviable constancy, but without proper understanding, photos of wooden dowels are given as illustrations. This is a big mistake in this case. Wooden dowels are designed to connect wooden parts: they dry out together with the base materials, and the connection holds firmly for many years. Or centuries, if the furniture was made by an outstanding master.
Chipboard / chipboard do not dry out and therefore are connected with plastic dowels. If you take a slightly more expensive propylene, then there is no need for a rather laborious and requiring high accuracy gluing of the joints. For the above reasons, the diameter of the dowels under manual production need to be reduced to 6 mm, leaving their length the same. In the edges of the boards, holes for dowels are drilled only along the conductor (pos. 4 in the figure); diameter - 5.3 mm, drilling depth 22 mm in edges and 12 mm in faces.
The seats (see below) can be made not folding, but removable, by placing them on dowels with rounded heads for detachable connections (at the top at pos. 2). This will allow you to abandon the rather complicated installation of piano hinges, the cost of them and fasteners for them. And if they decide to rearrange the corner in a hurry, then the likelihood of damage to it decreases: they grabbed the seat without thinking, it remained in their hands, and the sofa did not bounce and did not hit anything. Getting something out of the chest under the seat on piano hinges is not at all more convenient, because. seat cover reclines less than 90 degrees. It is easier to remove it and lean it against the back than to rummage through the chest, holding the lid with your hand. But in the construction under consideration, this, unfortunately, is impossible, see below.
It is better to take other dowels for our kitchen corner with faceplates, below in pos. 2. Washer thickness 0.5-0.7mm; at first, such gaps will not be visible. After some time, the washers will be pressed into the chipboard (the parts are tightly pulled together by confirmations), the gaps will converge, and the entire product will acquire additional strength. Another advantage of this type of dowels is the different corrugation on the long and short parts, which provides even higher bonding strength without the risk of delamination of the boards. You just need to pick up the dowels of the required size: with a 20 mm long part and a 10 mm short part (for 16 mm boards). For boards 20/24 mm, the long part is 30 mm, and the short part is 12/16 mm.
corners
For the design under consideration, you will need steel isosceles corner connectors 30x20x2 (for fasteners obliquely) or 30x15x2 for fasteners in a row. The first number indicates the length of the corner shelves, the second their width, the third - the thickness of the material. During assembly, the corners will partially have to be bent to mount inclined parts, so you need to take them white or gray from viscous “raw” or moderately annealed steel. The presence of stamping stiffness on the bend for bendable corners is unacceptable, pos. 4 in fig. The inner and outer folds of the corners should be smooth, without tears or wrinkles. The corners of burnt steel, yellowish with spots of tarnish colors, if bent, then cracked. Black phosphated corners from the so-called. overdried steel is very strong, but when bent, it immediately breaks.
Note: plastic furniture corners, so that you know, can be bent by thoroughly warming up with a household hair dryer at full power. But plastic corners serve no more than 3-5 years, and then dry out and crack.
Dimensions
Let us turn again to fig. with drawings (duplicated on the right). The dimensions are corrected there: the lengths of the sofa 1 m long are given in black; red and blue next to "black" for a small sofa 60 cm long. The green marks will come in handy later when we get to the corner seat.
The "red" sizes are basic: you need to add to them the missing from 600 mm for sofas of greater length. For example, for a sofa 1.3 m long, 700 mm must be added to the “red” dimensions. The largest possible length of a sofa of this design is 1.5 m. The "blue" dimensions are relevant for sofas up to 750 mm long. If the sofa is longer, instead of "blue" sizes, you need to take "black".
6th position
There is no 6th part in the drawings. This is the seat blank simple board without any holes. Its length is equal to the length of the lengths of the sofa (968/568 mm in the drawings) minus double the thickness of the upholstery fabric, it is kept within 1-3 mm. Thickness of flock and microfiber optimal in the kitchen approx. 1.5 mm including folds, so in this version the length of the seat will be 965 mm for a large sofa and 565 mm for a small one. Minimum seat width 297 mm, including fabric upholstery and installation on piano hinges, see below. If the dimensions of the kitchen allow, the width of the seat can be increased, then its overhang is formed in front. With the corner seat option discussed below, the maximum seat width of the sofas is 444 mm; then the bevel of the seat of the corner section is reduced. Width bed in this case, you can get up to 900 mm.
Cutting and sawing
Sawing sheets of chipboard / chipboard into workpieces is done with an electric jigsaw along the contour. The contour is guided according to the template, so the jigsaw file must be cut along the inner edge of its line. The upper and lower edges of parts 2 (chest front) and 8 (back base) in fig. with the drawings, it is necessary to cut obliquely, for which you need a jigsaw with an inclined shoe or you will need to buy a shoe to the existing one. The angle of inclination of the front of the chest is 10 degrees, and the back is 5 degrees. The scales of some shoes are graduated in units of relative inclination; for an angle of 5 degrees it is 0.085, and for 10 degrees it is 0.177. Not 0.175, as it might seem, since the relative slope is nothing but the tangent resp. angle.
The jigsaw blade for cutting is beveled inward from the edge to be cut. For children 2 (facade), the upper edge is cut from the face so that the upper outer corner remains intact, and the lower one, on the contrary, from the underside (wrong side), so as not to cut off the inner lower corner. The edges of the back, as it is tilted back to the facade, cut in the reverse order: the top from the rear, and the bottom from the front.
edging
The free edges of the details of the kitchen corner need to be covered with something in the general tone. Edging PVC kitchen furniture with a T-profile edge is undesirable, not because the groove for the edge must be selected by a milling machine, but because dirt will accumulate in the edge gaps. By the way, for the same reason, it is advisable to make a table in the kitchen under the finished postforming tabletop: it does not require edging at all and is equipped with a drip collector.
Visible and touchable edges of kitchen furniture are covered with a tape made of plastic of a complex composition ABS (ABS, acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) up to 2 mm thick, and the back and falling above the floor - with crepe paper tape. ABS is absolutely safe, hygienic and environmentally friendly; medical equipment. ABS and paper edges are produced dry and self-adhesive. The former are designed for industrial use with a separate supply of glue, so you need to take self-adhesive ones for yourself. Edging the kitchen corner with self-adhesive edges is done as follows:
- The edge tape is cut from the roll to the desired length plus 2-3 cm. It is convenient to measure the lengths of the curved edges with a tailor's meter.
- 2-4 cm of the protective film are peeled off from the end of the segment, without touching the adhesive layer with your fingers.
- Place the end of the tape on the edge evenly along and press.
- Holding the tape with your hand, pull it out from under it with the other hand protective film for the original tail. The tape should lie on the edge on its own.
- When the tape is all on the edge, it is rolled with a rubber roller.
In general, the procedure is the same as for high-quality self-adhesive gluing. By the way, this is a good finishing option if you decide to make the entire kitchen corner from inexpensive polished chipboard: there are few visible parts in it, and textured self-adhesive under acrylic varnish from natural wood even an experienced carpenter will not immediately distinguish. Self-adhesive gluing is carried out after sawing and trimming the edges before edging. In this case, the inside of the chest can simply be varnished.
Marking and drilling
The accuracy of marking the details of box-panel structures made of chipboard / chipboard is required no worse than +/-0.5 mm, but how can it be maintained on the edges and polished chipboard, if the size of the fibers of the material is of the same order? There are no problems with this at the factory, there is no marking as such - they cut and drill automatic machines. In handicraft production, templates are used, but in order to check each one, you have to spoil up to 2-3 blanks. For piece production at home, it is so unacceptable, if only because it takes a lot of templates and it will take so much time to make them that it’s easier to buy a ready-made corner. Moreover, the quality of the product from parts marked according to templates turns out to be 3+ at best.
Firstly, the marking of holes on the details of the kitchen corner made of chipboard / chipboard must be done so-called. a marking caliper with sharp jaws for measuring external dimensions and a vernier for precise installation of the carriage (on the left in the figure). Experienced locksmiths sometimes make a marking caliper from a regular one, sharply and very carefully sharpening tightly flattened outer jaws on fine emery, but manually set the tool carriage exactly according to nonius is difficult.
Note: electronic barbells, incl. marking (on the right in the figure) in fact, it turns out to be not so convenient to use, and the marking accuracy is worse. Here, electronics has not yet caught up with the good old mechanics.
Further, the marking of holes on all parts is done from the underside. When marking asymmetrical sidewalls, keep this in mind so that it does not come out in a mirror image. Mirrored, of course, the right and left sidewalls.
Then, between the centers of the extreme holes for fastening the mating part, axial lines are drawn into the edge with confirmations and they are beaten off to the sides along half the width of the attached board. The extension of the part to be attached is beaten along the center line and also marked to form the contour of its edge. On the underside of each board, it is necessary to mark the contours of all attached edges in this way, this is necessary for accurate assembly. Edge beating accuracy is required +/-0.5 mm, which in this case is provided by a locksmith's corner with millimeter divisions and a steel bench's ruler.
Sverlovka
Blind holes for dowels are drilled immediately according to the required diameter to the desired depth, as described above. But for the time being, we drill holes for confirmations only through the plates of the boards and only with the spiral part of the drill, i.e. not full diameter. We will drill completely later, in the order of assembly, so the entire kitchen corner will turn out without distortions and cracks.
Upholstery and upholstery
Before assembly, the sofas need to be completely covered with backs with seats, and from the parts of the corner seat, also segments of the back separately. We will talk about tight fitting and assembling the corner of the kitchen corner later, but for now we will limit ourselves to sofas.
Hollofiber, excellent for interior furniture, does not fit well in the kitchen, in the local microclimate it is not particularly hygienic. Kitchen furniture padding is made from low permeability foam rubber grades EL2240, EL2540, EL2842, EL3050, EL3245, EL3550 and EL4050. The first 2 digits characterize the rigidity, and the last 2 indicate the density in kg / cu. m. The bearing capacity within this range grows from 60 to 120 kg per square meter. m, which means that this material is able to withstand such a weight indefinitely, fully straightening out when the load is removed. Universal is foam rubber EL2842; lower brands go to the back, EL3050 and EL3245 to the seat, and EL3550 and EL4050 are designed for furniture in public buildings or for especially overweight riders.
The thickness of the foam rubber layer is needed 20-40 mm. It is recommended to cut this evenly with a heated nichrome thread. It is also easy to make a machine for cutting foam and foam rubber with your own hands, but it is still extra work. In addition, in order for the machine to be safe, the thread must be powered from a 12V 5A power supply, and this work is already more serious or a solid expense of money. However, it is easier to cut pieces of foam rubber with fairly even edges:
- A steel locksmith ruler is glued along the cut line with tape;
- The cut is carried out with a new, absolutely sharp mounting knife in several steps along the ruler;
- For the first cut, the blade is extended by 5-7 mm, and the knife clip is supported by a ruler. Take a closer look at your knife - the end of its clip is angled, this is just for such cases;
- For subsequent cuts, the blade is extended more by the same amount until the entire layer is cut.
The seats of the kitchenette are upholstered with foam rubber with a turn-up on the front edge. On the hem, you need to give an allowance of 2-3 board thicknesses. Foam rubber sheets for the backs are cut exactly to the size of the base. The foam rubber is glued with the 88th glue, the gates are glued last. If the seat is extended, then it is better to round its front edge before gluing, and give the foam rubber allowance 4-5 board thicknesses, see fig. on right. Sitting on such a seat will be much more comfortable.
close-fitting
Ordinary upholstery fabrics are rarely used in high-quality kitchen furniture, because. quickly soaked with a child and get dirty. Leatherette is more hygienic, but sitting on it in the heat is unpleasant, and installing air conditioning in the kitchen is not desirable for many reasons. It is best to sheathe a kitchen corner with flock or microfiber.
Flock is available in plain and colored, smooth and embossed, on the left and in the center in fig. Dirt gets tangled in its fibers without migrating back, and is removed during mandatory regular cleaning at least once every 2-3 months. The flock upholstery of kitchen furniture serves up to 10 years or more.
Microfiber works on the same principle, but its fibers are regular plexuses of the finest fibers. Microfiber, as it were, draws dirt into itself and firmly holds it; originally this material was developed for cleaning optical glasses. Microfiber is available only in plain, modest colors (on the right in the figure); maintenance during the entire period of operation is not required. Unfortunately, this material is expensive and lasts no more than 3-5 years, and then you need to completely change the upholstery: microfiber cannot be cleaned, because. this disrupts its structure.
Fasten the flock and microfiber upholstery as usual with a furniture stapler to the underside of the base. The folds at the corners are glued with 88th glue: the fold is turned away, glue is dripped onto the fabric adjacent to the base, kept until tack-free, and the folded fold is pressed. It is not necessary to glue PVA, it can give stains visible from the outside.
Assembly
Before final assembly, thrust bearings are placed on the legs of the sidewalls. Any width of the thickness of the board will do, but it is still better to put round ones with threaded or dowel heads instead of those recommended by the authors of the original design: there will be fewer nooks for dirt accumulation. Dowel thrusters are cheaper than threaded ones, and it is easier to install them: holes are drilled in the edge of the legs for dowels (6 mm in this case), and the thrust bearings are simply pushed into place.
How to assemble home-made box-panel furniture without distortions, crevices and without using sophisticated production equipment, this question, as they say, is still the same. In this case, you can not do without a pair of corner furniture clamps, see fig. on right. Welding corner clamps with a common clamp are not suitable, it is impossible to accurately bring together the parts to be joined, and with the help of furniture clamps it is not so difficult:
- They put dowels in children. 4 in the drawing, lightly knocking with a rubber mallet or mallet;
- One of the sidewalls (detail 1 in the drawing) and the back wall of the chest (det. 4) are pulled together with clamps so that the edge is det. 4 entered the contour marked for her on the underside of det. one;
- Drill holes for confirmations and screw them;
- Without removing the clamps, they put children on the dowels. 3 - the bottom of the chest;
- The upper clamp is removed and rearranged to the far corner of parts 3 and 4;
- Connect parts 3 and 4 (with additional drilling of holes for confirmations). The clamp is immediately removed from their corner, otherwise it will remain in the sofa;
- Remove the remaining clamp (do not forget!), Put children. 5 (lower back tie) and attached to det. 4;
- They put children. 2 - facade of the chest;
- Attach the second sidewall without screwing the confirmations to the end. It is only necessary to bait so that the heads of the dowels enter the holes a little;
- They assemble the back (inset at the bottom right in the figure with drawings) and put it in place, pushing the sides of the back apart. Hold out confirmats on the 2nd sidewall;
- The seat is hung on piano hinges, see below.
Here the question is possible: why clamps, if there are already dowels? Dowels are not guides, they do not hold a corner and can break out during assembly on weight. Taking into account the fact that the marking and sawing were done manually, you can’t do without clamps. Conscientious professional furniture assemblers use clamps with might and main, but why should we hack for ourselves?
seats
Putting seats on dowels with rounded heads in our case will not work, because. the facade of the chest is sloping. If we confine ourselves to dowels on the edge of its rear wall, then they will quickly be broken out even when carefully removing the seat cover. The seats of the sofas of the kitchen corner are hung on piano hinges, but it’s not worth taking 1-2 long ones (item 1 in the figure): it’s difficult to hang the chest lid on such ones so that it lies in place evenly and does not warp when folded down, without special equipment difficult. You need to take 3-4 short loops for fastening in a row, pos. 2. Zigzag hinges (pos. 3) are not suitable - how to attach them to a 16mm board? The same applies to card loops, pos. 4, strongly recommended by a number of authors.
The wings of the seat hinges should be as wide as the thickness of the board. First, the hinges are placed on the seat, aligning the edges of the wings along the bottom edge of the board along with the upholstery. Then an assistant is needed: he will hold the seat, and the master will align the edge of the wing of one of the extreme loops along the lower edge of the board of the lower back tie (det. 5 in the drawings) and bait with a pair of self-tapping screws, not reaching them to the end. Then another extreme loop is also baited, and after that the rest are attached to the full tightness and the extreme ones reach out. The assistant keeps the seat reclined all this time.
Injection
The corner module of the original design is rather complicated (item 1 in the figure), not quite convenient and not very hygienic: dust and crumbs will fall along the gap between the back and seat just where it is difficult to remove them. Since in our case the entire corner is made at the place of constant operation, it would be more expedient to build a hanging corner for it, tightly fastened to the sofas. Drawings of its 5 parts - the seat, the support bar and 3 segments of the back - are given in fig. The bevel of the corner seat with sofa seats 400 mm wide comes out 210 mm, and this is considered a half-window that fits in a small kitchen. The bevel can be straight, convex and concave. The most convenient is a slightly convex bevel, but then it will not be possible to attach a bench to arrange a sleeping place. The back is slanted upwards, which further improves the ergonomics.
The dimensions of the backrest segments must be verified in place along the trail. reasons. First, the thickness of the skin greatly affects small details. Since the sofas are sheathed earlier, this value will be known by the beginning of the manufacture of the corner section. Secondly, all the dimensional errors accumulated in the sofas will converge into one thing exactly in the corner.
And yet, it is necessary to sheathe the seat and back segments along the plate freely, without tension, so that the back does not overtighten the fabric during assembly. The lower edges of the segments need to be beveled inward by 2 mm (at an angle of 10 degrees, this is with a margin). The tops of the segments can be curly (options in pos. 4 and 5 of the figure), so long as the contours at the junction points converge.
Note: rear support racks can be omitted if there are no suitable scraps and riders weighing less than 100 kg. If you put, then they are fastened in pairs of confirmations through the face to the edge. The heel of the lower support is sealed with ABS trim and just sits on the floor.
Corners in a corner
This corner has 2 secrets. The first is a nook under the seat. From the point of view of a pet, this is a safe and safe retreat from the main house. And from the point of view of the owners - not giving them unnecessary trouble.
Second. The middle segment of the back does not carry operational loads. If you put it instead of self-tapping screws on friction pins, a cache is formed in the cavity behind it. Only it will be necessary to sew an outwardly directed tongue-strap made of durable fabric to the upholstery of the lower edge, and sew up the fiberboard from the rear corner section. When closing the cache, the tongue is tucked inward so that it is not visible. To open the cache, you need to pry off the tongue and pull it out with a fork or something like that. The segment is removed by pulling the tongue and the top of the back. From an experienced burglar or a professional search, this cache is unlikely to hide anything, but it is quite reliable from an amateur thief or excessively curious household members.
the old fashioned way
A kitchen corner made of wood looks chic in any setting, whether it is made from an array of valuable species or boards from unusable construction pallets - a pallet, see fig. And making a wooden kitchen corner with your own hands can be no more difficult and no more expensive than the one described above.
To start carpentry on wood, and not on viscous and fragile chipboard, it is not necessary to immediately buy an expensive triad planer - manual milling machine - grinder. You can get by with a traditional manual (and non-volatile!) hand tool. His processing of small parts in piece production is often easier and faster than readjusting the machine for the next operation.
To begin with, in addition to a jigsaw (we are not pedants, this tool is not very expensive, often needed and better than a bow saw in all respects), you will need an ordinary carpentry planer, a manual jointer and a set of wood rasps. At first, one so-called. office rasp, flat-convex with a tapered end, on the right in the figure:
You will also need selective (emphasis on the “s”) straight and beveled zentooth planers (on the left in the figure).
For the primary processing of knotty wood, a sherhebel planer is needed, in the center. Sherhebel works with a slight sliding to the side, as if cutting and cutting knots. You can turn an ordinary planer into a sherhebel by putting a “piece of iron” knife with a rounded blade into it.
Having got the hang of it a little, it will be possible to replenish the tool park with 3-4 more types of selected planers with interchangeable pieces of iron for them, see next. rice. Take a closer look at antique furniture: it was made with just such a tool, and not modern machines with shaped cutters.
The last moment - assembly (rallying) from the boards furniture panels, they are a piece of furniture. In theory, this requires special devices - clamps - 3 for the countertop, 4 for the sides of the cabinet and 2 for smaller shields. Here, firstly, one clamp can be replaced with a pair of jaws with clips for mounting on the bar, and a piece of timber of a thickness suitable for the clips will go to the bar, see fig.; usually 60 mm. Jaw sets for wyms and long clamps are sold separately.
Finally, wide shields are not needed for the kitchen corner; most often a shield for 3-4 boards is required. In this case, the shield from the boards can be assembled without special equipment at all, see the video:
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The place where the family meets for breakfast, lunch and dinner has always been considered almost the center room in the house. That is why many people try to make a kitchen sofa with their own hands, as it is ideal to choose suitable option store is not always possible. Independent work not only gives a spectacular result and is considered practically free, but also helps to relax and be alone with your thoughts.
It is worth noting that today, the sofa has become a very popular kitchen furniture. You can rest on it, even if its dimensions are not too large. In addition, a folding version can serve as an excellent option for a bed if such a need arises.
Benches and benches are a thing of the past, even for small kitchens you can make an excellent sofa that will become a central piece of furniture.
Making a sofa for the kitchen with your own hands is quite simple to make if you prepare drawings and diagrams for the selected model in advance. But first you need to decide which model you want to get as a result. It is more difficult to make a corner sofa for the kitchen with your own hands, and if you do not have experience, you should choose a simpler option for work.
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Assembly schemes are available for all types, so do not worry about the preparation. But, as practice shows, corner sofas are more popular than other options, as they qualitatively capture small areas near the walls of the kitchen and correctly divide the space. In addition to the corner sofa, the following types of upholstered furniture can be made in the kitchen:
- sofa book and eurobook;
- retractable sofa;
- folding sofa.
Folding sofa
Externally, the sofa in the kitchen can be decorated absolutely as you wish. In this case, there are no restrictions, because in any case a person makes individual option for your use. If you decide to immediately make a sofa in the kitchen with a berth, then you should prepare the mechanisms in advance that will help when unfolding the furniture.
What do you need to work?
Remember that what you are going to do is not just a bench, but a beautiful and original cushioned furniture. Sofas in the kitchen, although they are prepared in a fairly short time, still require the involvement of many tools, such as:
- drill;
- electric jigsaw;
- screwdriver;
- plane;
- building level;
- ribbon;
- sandpaper;
- construction stapler and staples.
In addition, you should think about your safety. Wear gloves and goggles when working to avoid even minor injuries.
Progress of the main work
For example, if you decide to make a kitchen corner sofa with your own hands, you will need step-by-step instruction. You can find it on the Internet, with all sizes, both for small and large options.
Dimensions for corner sofa Dimensions chart
It would be best to start with the manufacture of the frame. Details of the future sofa are made according to individual sizes, in which drawings and diagrams help a lot. The frame is assembled using screws, which must be fixed as well as possible so that the sofa does not loosen during operation and does not have to be restored.
Corner sofa assembly diagram
Plywood will be enough to make the frame, and after that bars are attached to it, which take on the main load when used. Remember that this furniture must withstand a fairly large weight, so the dimensions of the bars should not be too small. Experts advise taking boards for work, the thickness of which is at least one and a half centimeters. But, if your bars are more than the specified limit, there is nothing to worry about, the main thing is not less.
After all the bars are firmly fixed, you need to make the right angle. Since plywood itself bends quite well, there should be no problems, the main thing is not to overdo it with deflection.
Making the finished model
If you were able to make a sofa for the kitchen with your own hands, then you can definitely cope with its upholstery. To do this, you may only need a construction stapler and staples, and you can also prepare a project or drawing in advance that could make your plan a reality and prevent you from missing some important details. The main thing is not to feel sorry for the foam rubber on the made sofa. This material makes furniture the most usable, and since we all spend a lot of time in the kitchen, comfortable place a must for rest.
Remember that the furniture is made for the kitchen and therefore the fabric for the upholstery should be chosen one that will not be difficult to clean later. Various prints and decoration elements will help make it more colorful, as well as correctly place the sofa in the kitchen. In addition, in order to keep it clean, you can use the original covers or capes.
When wondering how to make a beautiful sofa in the kitchen with your own hands, answer yourself that everything is quite simple and possible. The main thing is to believe in yourself and follow the prepared drawings and diagrams. Remember that making furniture yourself, you will significantly save the family budget. In addition, as a result, you will receive not just the same type and standard store model, but an individually executed project that no one else has.
Having received this knowledge and skills, you can not stop there, but conquer new heights in self-manufacturing furniture. Sofas are needed always and everywhere, and original sofas are generally quite difficult to find, making it yourself is much easier.
