Wall panel joints. Mounting mdf panels on the wall with your own hands - a practical and effective way to finish the room How plastic panels are connected in the corners

The popularity of PVC panels in construction is due to quite weighty reasons. Their decorative possibilities are attractive, consisting in a variety of shades, patterns and textures, low cost, simple installation, which the owner of a house or apartment can do with his own hands. Mounting wall panels PVC will allow you to forget about the need for cosmetic repairs for a long time - compliance with the operating rules will allow them to maintain an attractive appearance for a long period. appearance.

Where are PVC panels used?

Given the modern approach to finishing materials, it is somewhat difficult to imagine that plastic wall panels will be used to decorate a bedroom or living room, but in the corridor, in the kitchen, in the bathroom or on the veranda, they sometimes turn out to be simply irreplaceable. They are also often used for finishing public and office premises.

The versatility of the external style of PVC panels makes them suitable for any style of interior design, and their moisture-resistant properties make them the ideal hygienist-approved finish for bathrooms and washrooms. An equally valuable property of the panels is their ability to withstand the loads created when the apartment is flooded by residents living on higher floors. Even in the event of a serious accident, the panels do not have to be replaced with new ones - they can be easily cleaned of dirt and acquire their original appearance after drying.

Using wall panels for the kitchen, where grease and soot are possible, it will be enough to periodically wipe the PVC material with warm water and ordinary detergents.

Mold, fungi and bacteria cannot multiply on the surface of the material.

Dimensions of PVC wall panels

Firstly, all manufactured panels can be divided by thickness into 5 mm and 8-10 mm. Sheets with a width of 100 mm usually have a length of 3 m, if the width of the sheet is from 200 to 370 mm, then its length can be 2.6 m, 2.7 m, 3.0 m.

By design, a lining with a width of 100 mm may differ in the width of the lock - for the "European" it is narrower, for the "Polka" it is wider. The lining with a width of 12.5 cm is distinguished by a double profile; it is quite rare for sale.

Panel material differs from lining in the absence of connecting seams, the width of the panel can vary between 15 - 50 cm.

Preparation for work

As already mentioned, especially careful preparation of the walls before installation work is not required. But it is necessary to measure the surfaces to be sheathed with maximum accuracy and correctly calculate the amount of material for their sheathing.

In addition, you will need to decide how the installation will be carried out - if the walls and ceiling in the room turn out to be perfectly even, then they can simply be pasted over with panels. But if the task is to give the room ideal parameters, then you should take care of installing the frame, the main advantage of this option is the ability to give the room an aesthetic appearance by hiding all engineering communications under the surface of the paneling.

When performing work, you will need to use the following tools:

• comfortable stepladder,
• drill or perforator
• hacksaw for metal,
• tape measure and level,
• paint knife,
• hammer,
• self-tapping screws.

It is recommended to save them in advance, otherwise it will not be possible to assemble them accurately and efficiently. Having collected everything you need, you can start marking. For the ceiling, PVC panels with a width of 100 mm are usually used, the so-called. lining. Marking lines for mounting the profile should be done every 0.4 m. First, the lowest point on the ceiling is determined, marks are made from it corresponding to the width of the panel. Then, using a level around the perimeter of the room, marks are made at the points where anchors or dowels will be attached with which the frame will be attached to the walls or ceiling.

The supporting frame profiles must be fastened perpendicular to the PVC boards attached to them. To simplify the marking process, experts recommend using a thin cord in addition to marking and leveling. It is rubbed with colored chalk, the ends are pressed against the wall to be marked - a colored trace will remain along its entire length.

How to properly assemble the frame

The quality of the finish will depend on the correct assembly of the frame, which is a connection of profiles. Different materials can be used as a profile:

• wood,
• plastic crate,
• metal.

Naturally, each of them has its own advantages, which determine the rationality of using the material in certain conditions. A wood frame, for example, is recommended for use in rooms with normal air humidity, if this option is acceptable in a kitchen, then its use in a bathroom or on a balcony is unlikely to be appropriate. In any case, using natural and ecological wood material it will be necessary to treat it with a high-quality impregnation that protects against the penetration of moisture and the development of fungi.

When installing a wooden frame, fastening of the bars is carried out every 0.6 m, with dowels or impact screws. If you want to give the boards the desired level, use a lining. The wooden frame is somewhat inferior in its characteristics to plastic or metal structures.

The use of U-shaped plastic profiles allows you to take advantage of the following advantages:

• low cost,
• light weight,
• ease of fastening work,
• the ability to withstand moisture, steam, temperature extremes.

The installation of the profile is carried out every 0.3 m, respectively, pre-drawn lines. Mounting dowels or self-tapping screws used during installation are installed after 1 m. The profile is joined at an angle, it is necessary to control that the joints are smooth, with well-fitting profile surfaces.

As an advantage, it is possible to note the possibility of using profile grooves for laying an electric cable.

PVC wall panels are lightweight and do not require the construction of a particularly powerful frame. If, nevertheless, it is decided to mount a metal crate, then the cable will have to be laid in special corrugated PVC pipes - this will eliminate the possibility of damage to the power cable braid by the sharp edges of the frame profile.

Basic rules for the installation of plastic profiles and panels

When installing a PVC profile, the following rules should be followed:

• installation should begin after the material has adapted to the room temperature, especially if it was stored in a room with a temperature below +10 C,
• lamellas should be placed perpendicular to the direction of the frame rails,
• if there is high humidity in the room, then ventilation cuts are made in the frame,
• we should not forget about the need for 5 mm expansion gaps, taking into account the possibility of changing the parameters of the material with increasing temperature,
• installation of panels without a pattern is carried out arbitrarily, if there is a pattern on the surface - work starts from the left corner and moves to the right,
• it is impossible to plan the installation of PVC structures and use them as a finish in rooms with temperatures above +40 C, such as bath or steam rooms.

Installation procedure

ceiling

You can proceed directly to the installation of panels after the completion of the construction of the frame. They begin installation from the extreme strip, it is fixed in the very corner, to the transverse profile using self-tapping screws. Each next panel will be inserted into the groove of the previous one. The procedure will be repeated until the finish reaches the opposite wall. If necessary, the last panel is cut to width. But you can do it in another way: turn the panel so that the mounting lock is on the other side, then cut the groove from the side.

Since the material is brittle, the use of sharp external influences on it can lead to the appearance of cracks on the surface, which cannot be eliminated.

When applying the panels during installation, do not apply special efforts to them. If necessary, a clerical knife can be used as an improvised tool, the edges of plastic panels can be directed using its narrow blade.

After completing the installation of the last panel, you can proceed with the installation of the skirting board. For its fastening, liquid nails are used, they are applied to the inside. Then the plinth is pressed tightly against the finished ceiling surface and held for 10 seconds. Residual glue is carefully removed.

Since liquid nails harden very quickly, you should hurry up with the removal of sagging.

wall decoration

Using PVC wall panels for a bathroom or toilet, the owners of a house or apartment get the opportunity to quickly equip a practical and sufficient cozy interior in sanitary facilities. The process of finishing the walls has almost the same technology that is used when installing the ceiling.

A frame made of plastic or a metal profile is mounted on the wall treated with an antifungal primer. The installation of the first panel is carried out by inserting it together with the corner into the profile, the subsequent ones are inserted into the grooves of the previous ones and fixed on the metal rails with the help of clamps. The last panel on the wall is installed in a U-shaped corner and, together with it, is attached to the frame. The next step is to install the corners.

Some difficulties may arise when performing installation work on the walls where you need to install switches and sockets. Before installing the finishing plates in this case, install the ducts and lay the electrical cable. When mounting the panels, it will be necessary to cut holes of the appropriate size in the marked places for the installation of sockets.

1. When buying PVC boards, you should make sure that there are no curved transverse stripes on them, the color of the material should be uniform, and no physical flaws should be observed on the surface. It is good if the surface of the panels is protected by a special film.
2. The purchased panels must have the same shade or solid pattern, they should not have areas with a blurry pattern or poor-quality painting.
3. You should make sure that there are a sufficient number of stiffening ribs inside the panel - a large number of them can provide material strength and resistance to pressure loads.
4. When attempting to connect the panels, gaps should not form, the surface at the junction should look like a monolith.
5. You should not purchase materials that, when joined, give a different opening - at one end of the seam it can be 1 mm, at the other - up to 4 mm.
6. Refrain from buying panels on the surface of which there are waves and stiffeners are visible - this is evidence of poor quality.
7. It is not recommended to buy additional material from another batch, even if the article matches.

Wall decoration with MDF panels Lately is becoming increasingly popular due to the fact that with the help of them you can quickly put in order surfaces of a sufficiently large area. In addition, the installation of the panels will not take much time, since you do not have to wait for the drying of numerous layers, as, for example, in the case of plastering works. It also plays into the hands that the surface leveled by them does not require any additional finishing, as is the case with drywall. Another advantage of this material can be called quite affordable price on him.

Do-it-yourself MDF wall mounting panels, which can be carried out even if there is absolutely no experience in this work, are installed quite simply. The main thing is to understand the principle of such cladding, prepare surfaces and pay special attention to accurate calculations and markings.

What are MDF panels?

The abbreviation "MDF" stands for finely dispersed fraction, from which this finishing material is made, including wall panels. MDF production consists in the process of dry pressing of a finely dispersed mass of sawdust and shavings, using high temperatures and pressure. To bind the mass, carbamide resins modified with melamine are added to it, which prevents the evaporation of formaldehyde, chemically binding it (formaldehyde emission class - E1). MDF panels are considered an environmentally friendly material, so they are not prohibited from being used for interior decoration. The principle of installing panels is similar to installing natural wood, but they have a lower price than the latter.

Installation of MDF wall panels can be carried out in two ways - fixing them to a frame crate or fixing them to the wall surface using an adhesive composition such as "liquid nails". This adhesive is used not only for the installation of wood products and its products, but also for sealing cracks, as it contains sawdust filler. If the filling of defects will be carried out on the remaining visible sections of the wall, then the adhesive mass should be selected by color so that the patched sections do not stand out against the general background.

MDF panels are produced in a wide variety of shades and can have a textured micro-relief pattern that imitates various types of wood or stone, so they can be matched to any interior design. In addition, the panels are easily combined with each other and can be installed vertically or horizontally, depending on what effect the owners want to achieve.

For example, if the ceiling is too high and makes the room uncomfortable, you can install the panels horizontally, using different shades of them alternately. If you need to visually raise the wall, then the panels are installed vertically.

The panels are produced in different lengths and widths, so before choosing the color and shape of the material, you need to think about what effect you want to achieve.

Tools for finishing work

To work comfortably, you need to prepare tools in advance that will speed up installation finishing material, making it as simple as possible. So, from the tools you will need:

• Electric jigsaw or vertical saw.
• Building level and plumb.
• Tape measure, metal ruler and building corner, a simple pencil or marker.
• Electric drill, screwdriver or even a regular screwdriver.
• Construction stapler.
• Hammer.
• Pliers.

The main methods of mounting MDF panels and the materials necessary for this

For the installation of MDF, certain auxiliary materials will be required. Moreover, the purchase of some of them will depend on the choice of mounting method.

Mounting panels on walls can be done in two ways:

• Kleev.
• Wireframe.

Both methods can be used to install panels both in a private house and in an apartment, but for adhesive installation, the main condition must be met - the wall must be perfectly flat. Therefore, if the panels are to be glued to the surface, then it must first be leveled with drywall or plaster-putty method.

To mount the panels on glue, you will need very few auxiliary materials - this is the “liquid nails” composition and fittings.

If you need to align uneven wall with the help of facing with MDF panels, while hiding communications behind it or conducting insulation and sound insulation, you will first have to install a frame that will bring the entire future surface into one plane.

The frame for the installation of panels can be made of wooden beam or metal profile. It must be said that mounting MDF is easier to carry out on wooden material, since nails or even staples are suitable for this. When mounting panels on a metal profile, metal screws will be needed, and in this case it will not be possible to do without.

When using a frame, a gap inevitably forms between the main wall and the cladding, in which there will be no ventilation air circulation - such conditions are very “attractive” to mold and fungus. Therefore, before installing the crate, it is imperative to audit the wall. If it is wet, then it will need to be dried first, and then treated with special antiseptic compounds. For external thin walls nevertheless, it is better not to install such a cladding at all, since it will quickly become unusable, and in addition, an unfavorable microclimate will be created in the room over time, which can cause allergic reactions in residents.

To install the cladding panels on the frame, the following materials will be required:

• A wooden beam treated with antiseptic compounds, with a section of 15 × 30, 20 × 30, 20 × 40 or 20 × 50 mm, or a galvanized metal profile - the same as used when installing drywall.
• Insulation material - foamed polyethylene of selected thickness.
• Metal straight hangers that will help to set the guides exactly in one plane.

• Kleimers for fixing panels on the frame.

• Small nails or staples for the stapler.
• Dowels for attaching brackets (suspensions) or direct rails to the wall.
• Wood screws.
• Fitting profile elements - corner and plinth. It should be noted that the design of the corner for MDF panels is convenient in that it can be used to decorate both the external and internal junction of planes, even at different angles.

Preparing the wall surface for cladding with MDF panels

Surface preparation can only be carried out if it is dry. When signs are found high humidity, it is necessary to first determine the cause of such a phenomenon, and then try to eliminate it. It is impossible to close a damp wall with any panels.

If there are no such obstacles for the installation of MDF panels, then approximately the same preparation of the wall surface is carried out both for the frame system and for gluing. It consists of several operations:

• Wall cleaning.

If the wall is covered with wallpaper, then they must be completely removed, otherwise in a closed space they can become a breeding ground for mold or even insects. High-quality pasted wallpapers, which are difficult to remove, must first be soaked with water or steamed with an iron, and then cleaned with a spatula. Sometimes you have to resort to using special formulations for.

If the wall is plastered and whitewashed, or qualitatively painted water-based paint, then it is not necessary to clean it.

• Wall processing.

In the event that mold spots are present on the wall, then the surface must be “cured” - treated with a special composition “Anti-mold” or with the usual concentrated bleaching agent - “Whiteness”. Before processing, it is recommended to clean the surface to the maximum possible depth with a spatula. When the applied composition is absorbed and dried, the wall must be cleaned again with a spatula, and then the treatment should be repeated. It is advisable to clean the area affected by the fungus to the ground, that is, remove the plaster in this place completely and process the main wall itself well.

"Treatment" of the affected areas of the wall with antiseptic compounds

This work should be carried out in compliance with the mandatory safety measures, in a respirator or in a special mask, in order to avoid inhalation of particles of plaster affected by the fungus.

• Closing cracks.

If, after removing the wallpaper or “weak” plaster, cracks are found on the wall, it is recommended to repair them, especially when planning the placement of heat and sound insulating materials under the MDF panels. Cracks must be repaired so that they do not become cold bridges, as well as a place where dampness accumulates, various insects or the same mold can find shelter.

Cracks are first cut in breadth and depth, ...

In order for the putty or plaster mortar to hold well in the gap of the crack, it needs to be slightly expanded and deepened. Then it is cleaned of the remnants of the old plaster and processed with a brush.

… and then densely filled with repair mortar

After the primer has dried, the cracks are sealed with a putty mixture or plaster mortar. In this case, it is necessary to try to ensure that the expanded gap is filled to its full depth.

• Surface primer.

The next step is to prime the entire surface of the walls. Moreover, it is necessary to choose a primer composition containing antiseptic components that will resist the emergence and development of mold, as well as other manifestations harmful to humans.

Mandatory operation - thorough priming of the entire surface of the wall

If it is planned to sheathe wooden walls, then it is recommended to choose a primer, which includes not only antiseptics, but also flame retardants - they will increase the fire resistance of wood.

The primer is applied to the wall with a roller in two to three layers, each of which must dry thoroughly before applying the next.

• Installation of insulating material.

Further, in the event that the panels will be attached to the crate, you can proceed to gluing the insulation material. For this purpose, "penofol", which is glued to a primed surface, is well suited.

The most convenient in work - "penofol" on a self-adhesive basis

Today, you can find self-adhesive "penofol" on sale - it can be very easily fixed on the wall with foil towards the room by removing the protective film backing. If such material was not found, then the usual "penofol" is purchased. It is cut to the height of the wall and glued to the Teploflex glue, applied in an even layer on the wall surface or directly on the insulation. Cloths of "penofol" are pressed against the surface, and with the help of a rubber spatula, air is expelled from under it.

Gluing the joints of adjacent strips of "penofol" with adhesive tape

Sheets of material are mounted end-to-end, and then the glue must be allowed to dry, after which the joints are glued with special foil tape.

Frame structure installation

Carrying out markup

If it is decided to mount MDF panels on the frame, then first you need to decide how the elements will be installed, vertically or horizontally, since the location of the batten guides depends on this factor. For horizontal orientation of the panels, the guide battens are mounted vertically. And vice versa, if the panels are mounted vertically, the frame elements are installed perpendicular to them, horizontally.

The frame is fixed on top of the insulating material. The step between the railing guides is usually chosen within 500÷600 mm from each other, and they must be installed perfectly even.

To find the perfect vertical, you need to use a plumb line with a colored cord, with which straight lines are beaten off on the wall. If the lines are beaten off on a foil surface, then immediately after the beating, each of them is additionally highlighted with a black marker using a ruler.

To determine the horizontal, I resort to the help of a level. The most accurate result will give a laser or water. If there are no such tools, then you can use the usual construction one, expelling the bubble into the middle with special care. Having outlined the currents, they are also connected by lines using a colored cord.

According to the markup, it will be quite easy to correctly fix the guide battens.

When marking, it must be taken into account that the first frame guide is installed at the junction of two surfaces, that is, in the corner of the room or along the floor surface. The first racks will serve as a reference line for the rest of the elements, maintaining the set step.

wooden frame

Wooden bars, despite the marking lines, when installed on the wall, are still checked by the building level for evenness. Then, they are attached to the wall with dowels, for which holes are drilled right through the bars, into which plastic dowels are hammered, after which self-tapping screws are screwed into them (or driven dowel-nails are used). Fasteners are installed at a distance of 350÷400 mm from each other. The length of the dowels or self-tapping screws is chosen so that they go into the thickness of the wall by at least 50 ÷ 60 mm, and the thickness of the crate beam is added to this parameter, given that the screw head is completely recessed into the wood.

It is more difficult to bring all the racks of the crate to the same level if the wall requires alignment with the crate, and the bars themselves will have to be fixed to hangers. In this case, the installation of the frame is carried out in the same way for wooden bars and metal profiles.

Hangers are first fixed to the wall along the marking lines. I fix them on the wall with two dowels, maintaining a step between adjacent ones at 350 ÷ 400 mm from each other. Hanger shelves are bent perpendicular to the wall surface.

Then, two extreme beams on the wall are installed, aligned in level and relative to the wall. They are attached on both sides with self-tapping screws to the shelves of the suspensions. The protruding parts of the shelves are bent back towards the wall.

The installed extreme guides are connected along the outer edge with stretched cords from above and below (or to the right and left - with the horizontal orientation of the frame) - this will become the reference lines (beacons) for correct installation other guides in a single plane.

Metal carcass

Metal profiles prepared in size are fixed on the wall according to the same principle as wooden bars, but sometimes liners are made of timber for structural rigidity. To fix the profile, suspensions are necessarily used, even if the wall is perfectly flat and the racks will fit close to it.

If the frame is mounted on wooden wall, then the hangers for fastening the railing rails are fixed on the wall using wood screws. If installation on a different base of the wall is necessary, then it is best to fix the suspensions with driven dowels-nails.

If the finish is fixed on a wall that has a window or door opening, then appropriate guides must be installed along its edge, on which the lining will first be attached, and subsequently the slopes and platbands.

Installation of MDF panels on the frame

Before starting the installation of the cladding under the frame, all electrical or other cable communications are carried out and fixed, immediately determining the installation locations for sockets and switches, if they are provided on the wall being finished.

Installation begins with the preparation of MDF panels - they need to be cut to the height or length of the wall. The panels are marked with a tape measure and a building corner, the corresponding lines are drawn along which the cut is made using an electric jigsaw, a manual vertical circular or even a conventional hacksaw.

• The first panel must be leveled until the ideal vertical (or horizontal) is reached, otherwise the entire cladding will go further skewed.
• The launch panel is installed with a spike in the corner and fixed to the guides from the side of the corner in two or three places with self-tapping screws. On the opposite side, clamps are inserted into the groove of the panel at the points of its intersection with the railing guides, through which it is finally fixed with nails or staples to the wooden frame. Using metal frame fixation of the clamps is carried out with small self-tapping screws with a low head, so that after it is completely screwed in, it does not interfere with subsequent installation.

• To begin with, the spike of each next panel is tightly driven into the groove of the already installed one - this docking edge is already fixed. Mandatory adjustment of the panel according to the level is carried out, since the configuration of this connection allows a certain backlash. After precise exposure, the panel is fixed in the same way with clamps.
• So continue facing to the end of the wall (or to the end of the section, for example, to the doorway). The last panel on the plane is cut in its thickness so that it freely enters the groove, leaving a gap of about 5 mm in the corner. The final fixation of the final panel is carried out with self-tapping screws, right through it. It's okay - the fastener caps at the beginning and at the end of the lined wall will be hidden by decorative corners.

Horizontal installation of panels is carried out in the direction from the floor to the ceiling, and the first canvas must also be perfectly level. Fastening to the crate takes place exactly according to the same principle as with a vertical arrangement.

• In the panel on which the installation of a socket or switch is provided, a round hole with a diameter corresponding to the size of a standard socket (usually 67 mm). Drilling is carried out using a drill-crown.

The socket must be fixed securely, and not bend when inserting the plug of electrical appliances. To ensure a hard stop against the wall, it is recommended to additionally fix wooden fragments of suitable thickness on the back side. The front part of the socket and the switch is screwed onto the facing panels or to the corresponding sockets of the socket.

Mounting MDF panels with glue

It is somewhat easier to install MDF panels on glue than on a crate, but using this method, it will not be possible to install insulation.

• To install the first panel, it is necessary to beat off a vertical or horizontal line on the wall, depending on how the installation is planned.

When gluing, the position of the panel must be controlled by level.

• Particular attention should be paid to the choice of glue for working with MDF panels - it must have some special properties:

- The adhesive must remain flexible enough even after its initial hardening, otherwise there is a risk of deformation of the panels. A composition should be selected that will not be affected by humidity and temperature changes.

- The adhesive must have a sufficiently thick consistency to be able to be applied in a thick or thin layer, as appropriate, and evenly distributed over the surface to be glued.

The best option- glue type "liquid nails"

These requirements in terms of the main parameters are precisely met by the composition "Liquid Nails". The primer that the walls are pre-treated with will create good adhesion for the glue on their surface, so the panels will hold securely on it.

• Glue is applied to the back of the MDF lining in dotted or wavy lines. The panel with the glue applied is first firmly pressed against the wall, and then it is torn off and left to “wind” the glue for 3-5 minutes. After that, already for the final fixation, the panel is re-installed and pressed in the right place, and held on the wall surface for several seconds until the adhesive composition is firmly set.

The adhesive can be applied to the back side of the panels dotted or "snake"

Therefore, in order to speed up the gluing process, the composition is applied immediately to 8 ÷ 10 canvases, which are pressed against the wall and then come off. After smearing, attaching and tearing off the last of the 10 panels, they glue the first, second, and so on, until it comes to the last. When installing canvases, they need to be pressed very well against the wall surface, and for better fixation, you can even grab each of them with self-tapping screws in two places. They are screwed into the groove of the panel, and then the self-tapping screw is closed by the next spike to be installed.

• If the finish is installed horizontally, it is recommended to wait until the glue under the lowest fixed panel dries well - it is necessary to create a reliable support for the rest of the paintings. If there is no time to wait, then the panel can also be attached to the wall with self-tapping screws.
• The last panel to be mounted, if necessary, is reduced in width - it is measured, drawn and the excess part is sawn off with a jigsaw. In the corner, the last canvas is screwed to the crate or wall with a self-tapping screw.
• The final elements of the installation are fittings and skirting boards. The corners are glued at the junctions of two planes to "liquid nails", covering the heads of the self-tapping screws that fasten the panels to the corners of the wall. In the same way, these fittings are fixed around the door and window openings(if special profiles are not used there - platbands or slopes).

They can be mounted in different ways, depending on the chosen design - glued to the same glue, installed on special fasteners or screwed to the wall surface with self-tapping screws. Fixing skirting boards to the floor would be a very serious mistake.

Learn how to produce by reading the step-by-step instructions in the article on our portal.

Advantages and disadvantages of wall decoration with MDF panels

Having become acquainted with technological process installation of MDF panels, it is possible, summing up, to formulate their main positive and negative qualities.

So to virtues Such a finishing material includes the following qualities:

• Fairly simple installation with the ability to mount the panels both vertically and horizontally.
• A wide variety of colors and textured patterns will allow you to choose a finish for every taste and interior style.
• When mounting MDF panels on a frame crate, you can hide cable communications behind them.
• With the help of panels, even curved walls can be given a respectable look and visual evenness, especially with the right combination of shades.
• Panels, unlike drywall, do not require additional finishing - this saves time, effort, and materials.
• It is easy to take care of the MDF finish, as it is enough to periodically wipe the surface with a damp soft cloth.
• Finishing MDF wall panels have a very affordable price.

disadvantages such panels can be called the following points:

• With this finish, a perfectly smooth surface is not created, since small gaps or depressions almost always form at the joints, depending on the design of the panel.
• When such a cladding is attached to the crate, a gap remains between it and the wall, in which, with insufficient pre-treatment or other adverse conditions, dampness can accumulate, and microflora that is unsafe for humans can develop. Very often, especially if walls are sheathed in a private house, this empty space becomes a favorable place for nests or rodent paths.
• The coating of the panels is not highly resistant to mechanical stress - it is easy to damage it, for example, by moving pieces of furniture without sufficient care.
• MDF does not belong to moisture-resistant materials in any way, therefore, if the wall behind the sheathing starts to get damp, the panels may swell and the lining will begin to deform.

However, it can be noted that despite the above disadvantages, MDF panels are only gaining popularity and fully compete with. The installation of such a cladding can easily be carried out even by one person without outside help, moreover, who has absolutely no experience in such work, unless, of course, he follows all the technological recommendations.

And in conclusion - a small "visual aid" in the form of a video about the installation of MDF panels:

Video: how to mount MDF panels on walls

Wall decoration is an obligatory stage of any construction. The main requirements for the finishing material are durability and practicality. These are the qualities that PVC panels have.

These products can be used both outside and inside buildings. But in order for them to serve for a long time and reliably, they should be mounted correctly. Therefore, a special auxiliary profile is used for such purposes. It allows you to securely fasten the canvases, regardless of their direction and place of fixation.

Peculiarities

Wall decoration with PVC panels is practiced quite often today. This is due to the fact that the material is well processed and is not afraid of moisture. Fastening of such products is carried out on a previously prepared frame. This design is complemented by a special mounting profile. Externally, these products look different, depending on the purpose of the design.

With the help of such a profile, several main tasks are solved at once.

• Giving additional structural strength. This is important if the systems are mounted outside the house. Properly closed slots will prevent large amounts of moisture from entering and also minimize the risk of wind blowing into the panels themselves.
• Creating a decorative effect Panel joints cannot be perfectly aligned, which leads to the formation of gaps. Therefore, the profile helps to hide these shortcomings, creating a unique external architecture of the structure.

Profile for PVC panels are made from various materials.

• Plastic. This type of product is quite common. Differs in durability and simplicity of installation. It should also highlight the low cost of products, which led to such a wide distribution. Almost always this profile is used for interior work. Plastic is easy to paint, which allows you to give it different shades. But the most common color is white.
• Metal. The metal profile is much less common. The material is durable and has a unique design. Aluminum or steel structures easily withstand external climatic influences. But with plastic panels, it is used only to create durable or designer surfaces.

Some manufacturers can give the profile a color according to the customer's order. Thus, one can easily supplement these building structures the main design of the room or facade.

Kinds

The profile is one of the main elements for the installation of plastic panels. Its use allows you to quickly and accurately align all the elements in the plane you need. But the surface of the walls or ceiling is not always perfectly flat.

Therefore, several types of profiles are used today to organize such systems.

• U-shaped. These structures are also called starting. They are installed before the start of installation work on each wall. Products are intended for closing the ends of panels. Often they are attached around the perimeter of doorways or window frames. The size of these products can vary over a wide range (10 mm, 12 mm, etc.).
• F-shaped. Technically, these elements are installed in the same places as in the previous version. But here such a profile can be more called a finishing one, since its use gives a decorative finish to the structures after their installation.

• H-shaped. This type of profile is distinguished by the presence of two internal grooves on opposite sides. It is connecting and is used when one lamella needs to be supplemented with another. This occurs when the length of the panel is not enough to completely cover the wall of the house. Docking profiles are the most versatile and often in demand.
• Angles. These elements are installed at the joints of two panels. Docking corners are of several types: external, internal, decorative and universal. The shape of this profile is completely different. Some products are equipped with several grooves, which allows them to be used in different types corners.

The dimensions of the corner can vary from 10x10 mm to 50x50 mm. Particular attention should be paid to universal products. To use them in a certain plane, you just need to bend the structure in the direction you need. But at the same time, it is impossible to use them reusably for solving various problems.

All corners are also equipped with special grooves where panels can be placed at a certain depth. With the help of such structures, you can get a perfectly flat vertical surface without distortions.

• Skirting boards. They are not classic profiles. Use them to close the joints between the panels near the floor. This allows you to create a smooth transition while decorating the surface. They are made mostly from plastic. There are many modifications on the market that differ in design and practicality.
• Reiki. Designs are used to create supporting elements. Can be supplemented various systems mounts. They are not used so often, as they are not mandatory elements.

All types of profiles can be plastic or metal. In most cases, aluminum is used, but there are other types of products. This allows you to select elements to match your design.

How to choose the right one?

The profile for PVC panels is used quite often. Today, there are many modifications of such products on the market, but they are all designed to solve a single task.

There are several factors to consider when purchasing this product.

• Profile view. Here it is important to consider only the place where this product will be used. If you need to clad only part of the surface without corners and openings, then you only need starting elements that will be located around the perimeter. Sometimes you will need decorative overlays.
• Design. Particular attention should be paid to the color of the material. Today, many companies produce a white profile that suits various styles of interiors. But if you need colored products, then they can be found in various specialized stores or purchased on order.

• Material. Manufacturers do not offer much choice here. In most cases, you have to choose between metal or plastic. It is important to analyze only the quality of the product itself. If you are planning to use plastic profile on the street, then you need to give preference to one that is able to withstand frost without losing its strength characteristics.
• Technical specifications. Particular attention is paid here only to the width of the groove, which will include a plastic panel. A too narrow profile should not be used, as over time it may become unusable. The width of the groove is almost always standard, since all panels are produced for the same size.

If you purchased non-standard modifications of the slats, then you must definitely check whether the profile is suitable for them.

Installation

Installation of a profile for PVC panels is not challenging task. Almost anyone can handle it. Before attaching the guides, you should perform several preparatory steps.

• Surface leveling. Initially, the walls or ceiling are analyzed for damage. If the surfaces have large cracks or drops, it is advisable to eliminate them with the help of special mixtures. This is important if the panels are planned to be mounted directly on top of the wall in the future without additional frames.
• Construction of the crate. Suitable for plastic panels wooden frame which can easily support the weight of these products. But you can design it from special metal structures.

The profile fastening algorithm consists of several successive steps.

• Installation of starting elements. They are located along the perimeter of the finishing surface (ceiling, wall). It is important here to place the opposite structures in such a position that they are in the same plane. If this is not done, then skew may occur, which will affect the panels themselves and their decorative look. Starting profiles are fastened with brackets or special self-tapping screws. Here it is important to correctly set them horizontally and vertically. The installation of panels in the future depends on this.
• Installation of corner elements. In this case, both internal and external elements are used. In most cases, they can act as starting ones. You can fix them according to the same principle as the previous type.
• Fastening of internal intermediate profiles. Systems of this type are installed on walls that are too long, where it is impossible to find a panel of the right size.

Plastic panels can expand or contract with temperature changes. Therefore, it is necessary that when installed in a profile, a small gap remains between the wall and the material. It is desirable to take it into account when designing the entire system. Before fastening all profiles, it is advisable to choose the direction of laying the sheets.

Finishing the bathroom with plastic panels is not the best method for solving the problem, but due to its cheapness and simplicity, it is often used.

Today, there are panels for bathrooms that imitate, with various patterns, etc. In terms of cost, these materials almost do not differ from tiles, and savings are achieved due to the cheapness of installation.

Plastic panels can be mounted different ways, the specific choice depends on the wishes and capabilities of the customer. We will give in the article step by step instructions all types of wall and ceiling finishes.

Before starting work, you need to purchase materials, but here inexperienced builders make mistakes.

We do not touch on design issues, this is the topic of the following articles. Let's talk about construction aspects.

1. Check mechanical strength. The stronger the panels, the more durable and better the sheathing. Check them before buying, squeeze your fingers at the end. You will be surprised how different the materials are regardless of the price. There are cheap and durable PVC panels and vice versa, expensive ones, but resembling cotton wool in strength. The quality of the panels depends on the raw materials used, equipment and production technology. Never buy soft panels, in case of damage it is almost impossible to change them.
2. Check pattern matching. Very often domestic producers sin. Complex multi-color patterns on the panels require the maximum responsibility of the manufacturers. Patterning is not a simple process, quality control must be carried out at all stages of production. Installation of low-quality panels leads to the fact that individual elements on the lamellas do not match. If this happens with ceramic tiles, then due to a slight adjustment of the gaps, the situation can be corrected, this cannot be done with panels. We understand that it can be difficult to check in a store. Warn the seller that such a check will be done by you at home, be sure to take a check. At home, lay out the panels on a flat surface and carefully inspect all the joints, pay attention to how the lines of the pattern or pattern move from one panel to another.
3. Pay attention to the docking points, there should be no gaps. Unfortunately, some manufacturers manage not only to leave gaps, but also to make them uneven in width. The reason is low-quality raw materials, old machines and the human factor. Marriage becomes even more noticeable if modern spotlights are installed in the bathroom, cracks cast a shadow, the appearance of walls and ceilings will upset even very undemanding clients.
4. The thickness of the panels over the entire area must be exactly the same. Connect the two lamellas and see if the junctions lie in the same plane. If there is a slight difference in height, then this is a marriage. When lighting the room in these places, shadows of various widths are formed, the appearance of the wall will be irrevocably damaged.
5. Check the material for plasticity. If the panels are made of recycled PVC, then during fixing it will crack. This is a significant marriage, the fastening strength is significantly reduced. Recycled PVC is obtained after processing products from primary. In terms of cost, raw materials are much cheaper, and this tempts unscrupulous manufacturers.

   High-quality panels do not crack when bent

Use the information when buying materials, do not create additional problems for yourself. Remember that high cost does not always guarantee the same quality.

Complete set and additional elements

We will discuss how to calculate the number of panels and additional elements below, and now we will tell you what is included in the wall decoration package. PVC panels. Select the appearance and specific dimensions taking into account the parameters of the panels.

Name	Brief description and purpose
	It has the form of a plate bent at an angle of 90 °. It is used for finishing of internal and external corners of the room.
	Complex profile, part is installed under the panels, outer side hides uneven cuts or surfaces.
	Consists of a corner inner part wider than the outside. Hides the irregularities of the outer corner.
	Differs from the outer width of the sides. The wide one is installed under the lamellas, the outer narrow one hides the irregularities of the inner corner.
	Allows you to connect lamellas without a lock, it is used if the length of the lamellas is insufficient for surface finishing
	It is installed first and last, sometimes it can be used instead of a universal or special corner.
	Is established in places of adjunctions, it can be applied as a platband.
	The supporting element of the frame can be plastic or metal profile.
	Made of metal, presses the panel to the mounting plate. Allows to dismantle panels without loss of factory qualities.

pvc panels for bathroom

The panels are fixed with self-tapping screws with a press washer, staples with a stapler, clamps or liquid nails. The choice of method depends on the materials for the manufacture of the supporting frame and the quality of the walls and ceilings.

How to process material

One of the advantages of PVC panels is manufacturability. You can cut the material in one of three simple ways in two directions.

Method 1. Mounting knife. Use only new inserts, the tip should be as sharp as possible.

Cut direction	Way of execution
Along the panels	Lay the panel on a flat place, mark the place of the cut. When cutting, you need to use a long straight rail. Press it firmly against the surface of the panel and cut the lamella on one side along the entire length with the end of the knife. Then turn the panel over and bend the cut point. Cut off the remaining plane in a bent position.
across the panels	A more complex case requires certain skills. Mark the cut. With the tip of a knife, carefully cut the jumpers between the planes one by one. After the entire width under the ruler has been passed, make a continuous cut in one plane. Bend the cut off part and cut off the second plane from the opposite side.

Method 2. Bulgarian. It is necessary to work with a disk for cutting metals. Disc thickness is minimal. Cutting is very easy and fast, the only requirement is a minimum experience with a grinder. Be sure to follow all safety rules, injuries from the angle grinder are very dangerous. Burrs on the opposite side of the cut break off easily after cooling.

Method 3. Hacksaw for metal. Undesirable option, work hard and long. But in last resort you can use it.

With a jigsaw you can make any cut on a plastic panel

The quality of the cut depends on practical skills. But do not be upset if the cut edge is not very even, additional elements allow you to hide problems in width up to one centimeter. The cut can rarely be worse, the panel will be fit for installation.

How to cut several PVC panels at once

How to calculate the number of panels and additional elements

The bathroom has a small area and many different transitions and corners. It is for this reason that professional builders are not very willing to finish these premises, it takes a lot of time to measure, install the crate and adjust the panels, and square meters little output. Builders are paid for meters, not for time, so they choose large premises.

The more corners and transitions, the more unproductive waste there will be. Their number increases if panels with decorative patterns or asymmetrical patterns are selected. Such material does not allow the use of segments in other places. For ordinary panels, the amount should be increased by 10% of the surface area to be finished. In bathrooms, the stock should increase to 15%. In addition, if there are complex patterns, then the panels will have to be counted individually, taking into account the location of the pattern.

Measure the total length of the inside and outside corners, the length of the skirting boards on the floor and ceiling. Decide how much you need a starting profile, whether you need a connecting profile, what elements you will finish the corners with (simple or complex). If you have the skills to work with PVC panels, you can use simple corners, if not, buy complex ones. They allow you to hide errors during cutting or dimensioning. Take your time, think carefully, always buy with a margin. It is very disappointing to go to the store again for a meter or another corner, and time is wasted in vain. Additional elements cost a penny, do not save on them.

When counting the number of rails or mounting strips, keep in mind that the distance between them should not exceed 50 cm. In addition, they must be mounted at the junction of the floor and the flow as close as possible to all corners, window and door openings. Reiki in these places are installed regardless of the location of the last row. Measurements and calculations may take several hours, use them wisely. It will never be possible to accurately calculate the number of clamps or screws. Buy them in packs, the seller will tell you the approximate number of pieces, taking into account the width of the PVC panels.

General requirements for surfaces

One of the advantages of wall finishing technology with plastic clapboard is the low requirements for surfaces. The walls do not need to be specially plastered and leveled with putty, only large cracks are sealed. The height of the irregularities can be up to one 1-1.5 centimeters, everything that is more needs to be cut down.

The climatic parameters between the wall and the cladding are the most favorable for the reproduction of fungi and other microorganisms; it is impossible to destroy them later. You will have to remove the casing, do disinfection and vapor protection. Only after such events can you begin to mount plastic panels. No matter how carefully you remove the skin, damage to the materials cannot be avoided. If you manage to buy the missing ones with the same characteristics, great. If not, you will have to buy new materials for the entire scope of work.

Installation of panels on the walls on a wooden crate

We will give step-by-step instructions for the vertical arrangement of panels. In the future, we will talk about the technological differences between vertical and horizontal placement.

Step 1. Calculate the surface area of ​​the walls minus window and door openings.

Make a stock taking into account the above remarks. We will fix the lamellas with a stapler and staples, this is the fastest and most reliable option. Self-tapping screws for a long time, clamps on self-tapping screws even longer, and liquid glue will not allow replacing a damaged panel if necessary. The crate is fixed to the wall with dowels. If you have special plastic mounting strips, then the lamellas are attached to them only with clamps, they are inserted into special grooves. The advantages of clamps are that the fixation area increases, the lower mounting plate of the panel is not damaged. Due to this, the strength of the fastening increases, the clamps are recommended to be used during ceiling sheathing with spotlights. They allow you to withstand the increased weight of the structure.

Step 2 Clear the wall of large irregularities and seal the cracks.

To check the surface, use a large flat rail, apply it in different places and see the clearance. At the same time, check the horizontal position, if the deviation is more than a centimeter, you will have to plaster. If the spread is smaller, then the position of the rails is regulated by various pads.

Step 3 Soak the surface with an antiseptic, make vapor and waterproofing. You can use aluminum foil or plastic wrap. It is allowed to impregnate the walls with liquid insulators, just pay attention that they are for indoor work. Wooden slats also need to be treated with solutions.

Step 4 To speed up the work, mark the position of the rails, use a blue rope to beat off the horizontal lines at the desired distance.

Step 5 At a distance of no more than 10 cm from the ceiling, fix the first rail. Carefully check its position with a level. Insert wedges if necessary. The rail is fastened with dowels. First, make a hole on one side and fasten the dowel, and then on the other. Next, dowels are installed along the entire length, the distance between them is about 20–30 cm. In the same way, fix the rail near the floor.

Step 6 Stretch ropes between them, two at the ends and one in the middle. The ropes perform the function of beacons, you install all the other rails along them. Be sure to frame around window and door openings. Once again check the position of all the rails, make sure that the crate is installed correctly near the openings. If the slats are not in the same plane, then this will negatively affect the panels, the backlight will reveal their incorrect position. To fix the marriage, you will have to dismantle the lamellas and repeat the installation from the beginning.

Step 7 Fasten a corner in the corner, start wrapping around from the far corner of the room. Fix the corner with a stapler, the length of the staples is 6 mm. During fixation, carefully control its verticality along two faces. Not only the quality of work, but also the speed of installation depends on the correct position of the corner. If the angle is not equal to 90°, then you will have to adjust the dimensions of each panel, which is very long.

Step 8 Measure the width and height of the wall in several places. The parameters must be the same. If the spread is less than a centimeter, then all workpieces can be cut to fit same size. Count the number of panels, measure the desired length on it and cut off the excess. This will be a template, use it to make marks on the remaining slats.

Step 9. Insert one edge of the lamella into the corner, fasten it to the crate from the back side. Don't forget to check the position. The first panel is installed - continue installation in the same way to the opposite corner of the room.

Step 10 The last panel needs to be cut in width depending on the remaining space. Make it about 1 cm narrower, this will make installation easier. First install the last lamella in the corner, and then move it to the penultimate one until the lock clicks into place.

Finish all wall surfaces according to the same algorithm. A little more work near the openings, in these places you need to measure and cut each element separately.

Installation of a metal frame

The advantage of a metal frame made of profiles is that it allows you to accurately align the position of the rails, regardless of wall irregularities. How is it attached?

Step 1. On the wall, draw the lines for placing the U-shaped suspensions. The algorithm of work is the same as for wooden slats.

Step 3 Cut the U-shaped carrier profiles to length, count their number.

Step 4 Start installing carrier profiles. The vertical position is adjusted using the holes in the hangers or a slight extension of the profiles. If they do not allow you to accurately install the crate, then unbend the suspensions. Such actions do not worsen the bearing performance of the elements. Loads from lamellas act perpendicular to the bend. The elements are fixed to each other with self-tapping screws.

Important. If significant errors were made during the installation of the crate, then they can be corrected only after the dismantling of the PVC panels. It is not only expensive, but also time consuming. Do not forget to constantly monitor the position of the supporting elements. Remember that the most accurate device for measuring the vertical position is an ordinary plumb line. You can buy it or make your own. The level can distort readings up to 2 mm per meter. And if it fell from a great height, then it is impossible to install a crate on it.

What is the difference between vertical and horizontal laying

The only difference is that for horizontal laying of panels, the frame must be vertical and vice versa. For bathrooms, horizontal laying of panels is strongly not recommended. Water easily enters the locks, then penetrates into the space between the panels and the wall. If there is a lot of it there and it is constantly there, then no steam and moisture protection will help. The appearance of mold and fungus cannot be avoided. To destroy them, you will have to completely disassemble the wall covering, carry out a set of special preventive and construction measures, and sheathe the walls again. Such work costs about twice as much as the correct wall cladding.

Practical advice. Do not invent a bicycle, do not create problems for your own money. In bathrooms, install PVC panels only in a vertical position.

Installation of panels on the draft ceiling

For example, let's take panels that mimic a rack ceiling. No draft ceiling preparatory work does not require.

Step 1. Saturate the draft ceiling with antiseptics, allow them to soak and dry. It is advisable to make a vapor barrier with aluminum foil or plastic wrap. Fix the material with a stapler, carefully seal the joints with tape.

Glue the joints with tape

Step 2 Measure the distance between the opposite walls of the room and cut the skirting board, in the corners the connection is at 45°.

Practical advice. Do not fasten the skirting board to the wall with self-tapping screws. Under the weight of the panels, it will sag a little, gaps will form between it and the wall decoration. In addition, this method of fixation requires perfectly flat planes. Self-tapping screws press the plinth to the depressions, it bends, the appearance deteriorates significantly.

Fasten the elements to the wall with liquid glue, remove excess material immediately. Fix only three skirting boards, the fourth is placed after laying the panels. For a guarantee, you can additionally fix the back of the element to the ceiling with a stapler. Wait 2-3 hours for the glue to dry completely.

Step 3 Ceiling panels should be a few millimeters thinner than wall panels. Keep in mind that each skirting board can fit two centimeters into the panel. Measure the length of the ceiling from edge to edge of the skirting board and add 1.5 cm to this value, the remaining 0.5 cm remains for ease of installation. It is better to measure and cut each panel separately, this minimizes the chance of error.

Step 4 Recheck the dimensions and geometry of the ceiling. If there are slight deviations, then they will have to be gradually eliminated by changing the width of the gaps between the lamellas. The magnitude of the change should not exceed two millimeters, otherwise the adjustment will become noticeable. If they allow architectural features ceiling, then align the panels in places that are not visible to the eye. Open areas will already have smooth joints.

Step 5 Insert the end of the panel into one plinth, bend it slightly and insert the other end into the opposite one. Align the panel and tuck the long edge into the third skirting board.

Practical advice. What to do if the plane of the ceiling resembles a rhombus? Such cases happen with hack builders, but this can be corrected. Install ceiling panels diagonally. There is nothing complicated, just cut the end of each panel at an angle. How this is done, we will describe below. The negative consequences of a crooked ceiling - the amount of panel waste increases significantly.

Step 6 Press the panels firmly against each other, fix them with a stapler. The tighter the locks converge, the stronger the connection. If the ceiling is not very even, then during the fastening of the panel at the end between it and the plinth, a gap may appear. To prevent this from happening, push plastic trimmings into these places and only then fix them. Under force, the plastic will shrink to the required thickness, the gap will close. There are difficulties with bending short slats. In such cases, make them another centimeter shorter, the width of the skirting boards allows this. The best way– immediately lay the panels on the wider side of the ceiling. During installation, do not apply excessive force, do not damage the baseboard, do not scratch the walls, do not break the panel.

Step 7 After all the whole panels are installed, measure the width of the remaining uncovered ceiling. Cut the material according to these dimensions using one of the possible methods.

Step 8 Using the method described above, insert the panel into two skirting boards, connect one edge to the lock. The rest will have to be fixed separately. There are two options. The first is to lubricate before installation reverse side liquid nails and glue. The second is to drill a hole in one plane along the diameter of the self-tapping screw and fasten the second plane to the ceiling with it.

Step 9 Cut off the fourth ceiling plinth base part. Spread the remaining plane with liquid glue and attach to the wall in the right place.

This completes the installation of the ceiling panels. Of course, during operation, you need to leave space for electrical wiring, ordinary or spotlights. If, after installation, gaps are visible in some places, they can be sealed with a sealant of the appropriate color.

Installation of panels to the ceiling on a metal frame

Step 1. Beat off the installation line of the supporting profiles along the perimeter of the room, make sure that the ceiling is horizontal. At a distance of approximately 50–60 cm, fix the remaining profiles. If the ceiling is very uneven, then use suspensions. They are fixed and adjusted in the same way as on the wall. The difference is that the ceiling frame is more difficult to check with a level: it is more difficult to work, hands are raised up and get tired quickly.

Frame for PVC panels

Step 2. Glue three skirting boards with liquid nails, cut them at 45 ° at the corners. If the ceiling plane does not have right angles, then each gash will have to be adjusted. Glue the plinth both to the wall and to the metal profile. During gluing, follow the technology. After the skirting board is attached, take it away and wait 2-3 minutes, then press the element again. Check its position by rule or level. The rule is applied to the lower edge of the plinth. If there are gaps, then carefully move the plinth down with your hand until it stops with an even edge of the rule. Give it time to cool. The cracks in the corners are sealed with a liquid sealant, but for professionals, the fit should immediately be tight. Under the ceiling of the bathroom is very hot and humid. You can be sure that the sealant will peel off after 4-5 years, it will have to be removed, and the gaps re-sealed.

Practical advice. Sometimes, during the curing of the glue, the skirting boards lead a little in the corners, they are at different levels. To prevent this from happening, shove at the corners of the trim, they will constantly keep the two elements at the same level.

Step 3 Insert one end of the lamella into the baseboard, bend it slightly and tuck the other end into the opposite baseboard. Align the panel and slide into the third plinth. We have already mentioned that before installation, you should accurately check the dimensions of the ceiling. If one side is longer than the other, then the difference must be gradually leveled by adjusting the gap between the lamellae. The method, of course, is not ideal, but the best does not exist. Install panels always on the long side of the ceiling. Due to this, it will be possible to reduce the number of cuts and facilitate the bending of the lamellas during installation.

Panel fixing

Constantly check the position of the slats. In order to prevent a jumped-off screwdriver from damaging the end of the panel, place a clean wide metal spatula between them during tightening, it serves as a reliable protection. It is not necessary to twist the press washers into the tail of the panel, it is difficult and increases the risk of damage, the main thing is that it presses it against the profile with a hat.

Step 5 The last panel must be cut to fit the remaining gap. To facilitate installation, make a gap of about 1-1.5 cm, then it will hide in the baseboards.

Step 6 Cut off the back plate of the plinth, spread the remaining surfaces with glue and glue it in the wall. Do not forget that gluing must be done in two stages. If the plinth crawls down under its own weight, then hold it for a few minutes or come up with any temporary stop.

On this work is completed, you can proceed with the installation of lighting fixtures. Even before you start finishing, you should know the type of devices and their installation locations, pre-cut holes of the corresponding diameters in the panels.

1. Draw on the panel a hole of the desired diameter and in the selected location.
2. Insert the drill into the drill, adjust it to high speed.
3. If there is an assistant - excellent, he will put the panel on the edge and hold it firmly. If you have to work yourself, then the panel is held with one hand, while the other works with a drill. This is inconvenient and difficult, the hole will turn out uneven.
4. Drill a hole on the circle line, press the drill against the line and drive it along the circle. From friction, the plastic will melt, and the drill will "cut" a hole in it.

That's all, remove the burrs and the hole is ready.

What are the features of mounting panels on the ceiling for spot lighting? No matter how light the fixtures are, a large number of them creates an additional load on the panels; over time, the ceiling may sag a little. In order to prevent such consequences, it is necessary to install intermediate jumpers more often, professionals recommend making the distance between them no more than 30 cm. In addition, choose strong lamellas for the ceiling, pay special attention to the characteristics of the locks, they hold the weight.

Can panels be reused? A lot depends on how you shoot them. Cheap materials can produce long longitudinal cracks during detachment of fixation sites. To prevent such a phenomenon, with the sharp end of the mounting knife, cut the junction of the lamellas with the frame along the entire perimeter of the hardware. Before re-laying, it will be necessary to move the supporting frame a few centimeters in any direction so that the fixation is done on intact areas.

Video - Vertical laying of panels on walls

PVC panels are a practical and durable material, and therefore are widely used in. They are suitable for any room, and a variety of textures, shapes and colors allows you to make the interior not only cozy, but also very stylish. The fastening technology is quite simple, so the decoration of the walls with plastic panels - great option for the beginner.

The choice of panels for decoration

The range of plastic panels is so large that it is very difficult for an inexperienced buyer to figure it out. To avoid mistakes, you should familiarize yourself with the characteristics of this material and its varieties in advance. It is worth considering only certified material, because low-quality panels do not have the required strength and quickly burn out.

The main advantages of plastic panels:

The disadvantage of this material is its low impact resistance, so the panels should be handled with care during transportation and installation. Depending on the coating, the panels are divided into matte and glossy, and according to the drawing technology, they are divided into film and printed.

Standard sizes:

• width from 200 to 350 mm;
• length from 2700 to 3000 mm;
• thickness from 8 to 10 mm.

The strength of the material depends not only on the wall thickness, but also on the number of stiffeners located inside the panel. To check how durable the material is, you need to press your finger on the surface - if the plastic is bent, the panel will not last long.

Besides, you should not buy panels if:

Comparative table of characteristics of PVC panels

Indicator / panel	PVC panel ТМ Decomax	Average Chinese panel	Average European Panel
Thickness front surface, mm	2,5	1,5	2,0
Number of stiffeners, pcs	29	20	29
State of the stiffeners	smooth, without deformation	smooth, there are minor deformations	smooth, without deformation
PVC panel weight, kg/sq.m	2,2	1,7	2,0
Appearance		The coating is even, but with pronounced gaps in the stiffening ribs, there are slight deformations	The coating is smooth, without manifestations of stiffening ribs
Raw material		after a slight pressure, the panel is deformed, which proves the high content of chalk	after a slight pressing, the panel returns to its original form, which indicates a low content of chalk

Prices for popular finishing wall panels

Preparatory stage

preliminary calculations

You need to start by calculating the amount of finishing material so that you do not have to overpay or go to the store for an additional batch. Panels can be mounted both vertically and horizontally, depending on the desire of the owners of the apartment. With vertical fastening, the number of panels is calculated as follows: measure the length of the perimeter of the room, subtract the width of the openings and divide by the width of one panel. 2-3 lamellas are added to the resulting number in reserve.

For horizontal installation, the area of ​​​​the room is measured minus the door and window openings and divided by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone panel. Here, the margin should be at least 10%, since the consumption of material for trimming increases. Additionally, you need to calculate the number of rails for the crate and fasteners. First, the height of the walls is divided by the step of the crate, which is usually 0.5 m, and multiplied by the perimeter of the room. The resulting number indicates the length of the rails in running meters. By measuring the height of the corners and multiplying it by their number, we get the total footage of the corner profiles; to this number you need to add the perimeter of window and door openings.

Methods for attaching lamellas

There are three ways to fix the panels on the wall - with glue, self-tapping screws and clamps. The first method is suitable for very even and smooth walls; glue is used special for PVC, universal "Moment-mounting" or "liquid nails".

The use of this method facilitates and reduces the cost of the installation process, since there is no need to fix the crate. Disadvantages: it is impossible to replace a damaged panel, it is difficult to remove the coating from the wall during subsequent repairs.

Self-tapping screws are a reliable and convenient option that does not require a perfectly flat surface. To screw in the screws, you definitely need a screwdriver, otherwise the installation process will be delayed for a long time. Disadvantages of the method: a wooden frame is better suited for self-tapping screws, therefore, additional time is spent on sawing the timber and processing it

The third option is the most optimal. Kleimers are conveniently and quickly attached to the crate and securely fix the panels on the wall. The crate is mounted from a metal profile, the assembly of the coating is effortless. A damaged lamella is easy to replace with a new one, and the dismantling of the finish also does not take much time.

Tools and necessary materials

In the process of work, everything should be at hand, so materials and tools for installation are prepared in advance. You will need:

• fine-toothed hacksaw;
• pencil and tape measure;
• level;
• square;
• plastic panels;
• rails or plastic profile;
• dowel-nails, self-tapping screws or kleimers;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;
• antiseptic composition;
• sealant;
• ceiling plinth.

Wall preparation

Before paneling, the walls must be cleaned of the old coating, repaired to one crack, noticeable defects and treated with an antifungal agent. Due to this, dust will not accumulate under the plastic and mold will not develop, which negatively affects the microclimate in the room. If the installation will be carried out on the frame, it is not necessary to additionally level the surface.

Prices for mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Installation of plastic panels

Step 1. Marking the walls

The crate should be fixed strictly according to the level, this will help to avoid distortions. In order not to measure each rail, you should make markings on the walls. The bottom row of the crate should be located 1-2 cm above the floor, so a point is marked on the wall with a pencil at this height, and then, using a level, draw a horizontal line around the entire perimeter. Exactly the same line is drawn under the ceiling or along the edge of the finish, if the walls are not sheathed to the full height. Further, 40-50 cm are measured upwards from the bottom line, a beacon is placed, and so on to the very top. Strictly parallel lines are drawn through the beacons along the perimeter of the walls. The markup is ready.

The panels must be attached to the crate perpendicularly, so the horizontal frame is sheathed vertically, and vice versa. To make a markup for a vertical crate, the first line is drawn in the corner from the ceiling to the floor using a plumb line. Next, mark the second corner, and then draw the rest of the lines in increments of 50 cm.

Step 2. Mounting the crate

If a tree is used for the crate, all slats must be primed with an antiseptic in advance. Holes for dowels are drilled along the marking lines with a puncher at a distance of 50 cm, then slats are applied, leveled horizontally and fixed on the wall. Where the walls have irregularities, wooden wedges are laid under the crate. If there is wiring along the wall, it must be hidden under the trim. To do this, make measurements, drill holes in the wall and fix the wires with clamps so that they do not protrude beyond the plane of the crate.

Step 3. Fixing the slats

The first lamella is installed in the far corner from the entrance, which is considered the most noticeable.

Make measurements, if necessary, cut the panel along the length with a hacksaw. With one edge, the panel is inserted into the side molding, applied to the corner and fastened to the crate from the back side.

The second lamella is inserted into the mounting groove of the first, the joints are pressed tightly and fixed to the frame rails.

To achieve maximum sealing of the joints, the side edges are lightly smeared with silicone before insertion. All subsequent elements are mounted in the same way.

For switches and sockets in panels sharp knife holes are cut out, and after installation, these areas are covered with plastic boxes. The last lamella most often requires trimming in width, so first they try it on the wall, mark the cut line with a pencil and cut off the excess with a hacksaw.

Step 4. Installing moldings

After installing all the elements, the surface should look monolithic and even, without gaps at the seams and around the perimeter. To do this, all corners, joints and joints are closed with special plastic moldings. Their design allows you to carefully insert the edges of the panels on both sides, making the corners look much more attractive.

Finally, a decorative molding is installed around the perimeter of the ceiling, and a plastic molding is attached around the perimeter of the floor. On this wall decoration with PVC panels is considered complete. With careful operation, the panels do not lose their attractiveness for a long time and do not require repair.

Video - Wall decoration with plastic panels