Do-it-yourself gutters for the roof from improvised materials. How to independently assemble a drain from sewer pipes: cheap and effective Construction of a drain on a flat roof

Atmospheric water is one of the main causes of early wear and tear building structures. If you do not protect the house from its destructive effects, the famous source of life will stubbornly "undermine" the foundation and the blind area.

A drainage system can eliminate the negative impact, the construction of which can be easily handled by a home master. Only first you need to figure out how to arrange a drain with your own hands so that it serves flawlessly.

Among the functions entrusted to roofing systems are drainage activities. The runoff of precipitation and melt water is facilitated by a slope inherent not only in slopes, but also. However, the inclined configuration is not able to perform the work of protecting the facades and the blind area with the foundation. Drainage is required to protect structures below the roof.

Classification by degree of organization

In order for the result of the invested efforts to become the cause of well-founded pride, it is necessary to deal with the design subtleties and technological nuances of the drainage system.

According to the degree of organization, drainage systems are divided into two types, these are:

Unorganized. According to the unorganized scheme, the runoff of precipitation and the results of snow melting is carried out freely. Over all the area of the slopes, water simply flows onto the blind area, the ground or a paved path, persistently causing damage to the property that is imperceptible at first.
Organized. According to an organized scheme, all types of atmospheric water rushing down the slopes are captured by water intake gutters or funnels. Then they are discharged through pipelines to points intended for the collection and disposal of storm water.

Note that the regulation SNiP 31-06-2009 allows the use of an unorganized option in private construction. The regulations allow not to use the gutter system when arranging roofs of one- and two-storey cottages. True, at the same time, eaves overhangs are narrower than full-fledged 60 cm, it is not supposed to be built, and entrance groups and balconies should be equipped with visors without wrangling.

An organized option is required for buildings with a height of three meters, but diligent owners do not refuse it when equipping one-story houses and household buildings. It's worth it if you apply own hands not too costly, and the benefits of it are quite real and economically tangible.

Drainage systems of an organized variety, in turn, are divided into internal and external options. characteristic of flat roofs. External are universal, they are successfully involved in the arrangement of almost all types of roof structures. Here we will carefully study their device and installation technology.

Design specifics of gutters

All systems for external drainage of water from roofs of any type and steepness include two main components, these are:

Water intake devices. These include gutters, trays and funnels designed for direct collection of water flowing from sloped planes.
Water pipes. Vertical sections of the drain, designed to drain the collected water with its subsequent transfer to the storm sewer or with the discharge of effluent to the ground outside the blind area.

In the outdoor gutter family there is also a division into systems with wall-mounted, hanging and remote gutters, but they only differ in the layout of the water intake. The most demanded is the one studied by us wall variant as the simplest and most practical.

Hook-shaped brackets are used to fasten drainage systems to rafters, lathing or frontal board of a roof being equipped. Clamps are used to fix horizontal sections of the drain. Together, a set of basic and fasteners makes it possible to quickly and easily, like a designer, assemble and install a drain.

The choice of fasteners for fixing the gutters depends on the type of construction work (renovation is underway or new construction):

Long metal brackets are used when installing a drainage system before laying the coating. Attach them to the railings or rafters.
Short metal brackets are used in the process of carrying out repair work. They are fixed on the frontal board.
Plastic hooks are used during repairs or in new construction, if a plastic drainage system is being laid. The plastic parts are fastened to the frontal board.

The brackets are fixed with anti-corrosion fasteners with wide caps with a diameter of not more than 8 mm. Fastening is carried out with galvanized screws, self-tapping screws with press washers, ordinary roofing screws. The diameter of the working part of the fastener is at least 4.2 mm.

The hook installation step determines the material from which the drain is made. For metal systems, it varies from 60 cm to 90 cm, for deformation-sensitive copper circuits from 30 to 60 cm. Hook-holders are installed under plastic gutters every 50-60 cm.

The gutter system kit can be purchased fully assembled and ready for installation. Its modular elements are produced so that from individual components it is possible to build a gutter for a roof of any size and configuration without any problems. Using industrial prototypes as a template, you can make elements from available and improvised materials, for example, from plastic bottles, roofing sheet or polymer sewer pipes.

Downspouts and water intakes come in round, rectangular and combined sections. Rectangular and combined views are more " throughput". This characteristic is not very interesting for private owners, because for the arrangement of cottages, the option with an oval gutter is often enough.

The size of the drainage system depends on the area of the roof being treated:

If the roof area does not exceed 70 m², then the gutter must be Ø 100 mm, and the downpipes Ø 75 mm.
If the roof area is between 70 m² and 120 m², then the gutter is needed Ø 125 mm, downpipes Ø 90 mm.

However, when choosing the shape and section of the system, it is not necessary to focus only on specifications, because gutter plays a significant role in exterior design.

Materials used in production

The specific operation of outdoor gutters limits the choice of materials suitable for the manufacture of systems. It is clear that they will have to endure all the hardships of direct contact with atmospheric phenomena. This means that the elements of the drains must be frost-resistant, "indifferent" to heavy rains, snow deposits and the scorching sun.

In the manufacture of downpipes, water intake funnels and gutters, the following materials are used:

Roofing steel. In priority, galvanized options, sheet thickness 0.63 mm or 0.7 mm.
Corrosion Resistant Roofing Steel. An analogue of the previous position, but with a protective and decorative polymer shell. Used in production sheet metal rolling with a thickness of 0.6 mm to 0.7 mm.
PVC. Light plastic gutters are produced from polyvinyl chloride with a wall thickness of 2.2 mm to 3.3 mm.
Aluminum. Systems are made of light durable metal with a thickness of 0.8 mm. The decorative and protective functions of aluminum drains are performed by a polymer shell.
Copper. An elite material that pleases with a service life of 150 - 200 years, but cools the dust at a solid price. Wall thickness 0.6 mm.
Zinc-titanium. A new word in the production of gutters with excellent performance. The price tag is also merciless, but the promised 100 years of trouble-free service make you take a closer look at the indicated trading position with interest. The thickness of the material used in the manufacture is 0.7 - 0.8 mm.

The choice of a drainage system according to the type of material is focused not only on the personal preferences and financial capabilities of the future owner. To a greater extent, it depends on the type of roofing and architectural features private house.

Expensive copper and zinc-titanium options are appropriate on roofs with ceramic tiles, copper sheet roofing, slate tiles. Budget PVC is in perfect harmony with, the steel drain is perfectly combined with metal tiles and corrugated board.

For purely economic reasons, galvanized steel and PVC gutters are most in demand. The first will last 10 years, the second 25 - 35 years, depending on the assurances of the manufacturer. Difficult to single out best option in terms of resistance to atmospheric attacks, tk. performance characteristics they are very similar. However, metal is preferred in the northern regions, and plastic in the temperate climate zone.

There are no special differences in the design and installation sequence of steel and polymer gutters. Practically identical gutters, pipes, funnels are complemented by bends, couplings, tees, and plugs specially produced for them.

It is only necessary to take into account the fact of linear expansion that occurs when the systems are heated. Polymeric ones are able to elongate 5 times more than metal ones, the linear shifts of which can be generally neglected.

DIY options

The elementary design of the gutter is unlikely to puzzle the home craftsman. Everything is extremely simple: after meticulously executed markings, sheet metal must be cut into strips and bent according to the preferred section configuration. Cutting and bending can be done by hand, but it would be wiser to do it on a bending machine.

Pipes will have to be tricky. They may consist of several links, depending on the height of the pipeline section and the dimensions of the sheet. The algorithm for hand-made production of downpipes looks like this:

Open. It is carried out with special care and taking into account allowances for roller joints.
Formation of longitudinal edges. Bends are made along the lines of allowances for rolling seams.
Rolling blanks. Produced on roller machines or manually using a mandrel: a straight long pipe or bar.
Roll seam connection. The rolled-out blanks are connected according to the markup and pressed on the previously used mandrel.
Narrowing of one of the sides of the link. They are narrowed by 5 - 6 mm so that the upper link freely enters the lower element.
Formation of stiffening rollers. They are formed along the upper and lower edges of the links by rolling the wire. Produced by hand or using a zigmachine.
Gutter assembly.

Rolling out metal blanks will require the most effort if done manually. Each of the cut blanks is placed under the mandrel and, grabbing the edges, carefully bend in one place.

After making sure that a sufficiently curved plane is formed, the workpiece is moved by 20º - 30º relative to the mandrel used. Then bend again until it takes the required configuration.

It is much easier to make a drain from sewer polymer pipes. They are produced with a fairly extensive range of shaped parts suitable for the construction of complete systems. In fact, home master it will only be necessary to make a gutter by dissolving the whole pipe into two symmetrical parts.

Self-assembly and installation

In new construction, the installation of drainage systems is carried out on a fully prepared solid rough flooring, rafters or a firmly fixed crate. All work on the device of the base for laying the roof by the time of the construction of the drain must be completed.

When carrying out repair restoration of the roofing system, it is necessary to eliminate defects in advance or completely replace the frontal board.

Design and calculation rules

Before starting work, the drainpipe must be thoroughly thought out and a laying diagram drawn. Project preparation will help to correctly calculate the consumption of pipes, gutters, the number of funnels and fittings. It is better to try in advance on the drawing different variants and decide how you can make an impeccable gutter with your own hands so that your own efforts and funds are properly invested.

The configuration of the drainage system in terms of depends on the design of the roof:

Gables are equipped with two gutters along each eaves. If the length of the slope is not more than 12 m, one funnel is mounted on the gutter in a corner convenient for installing the gutter riser. If more than 12 m, drainage funnels are installed at both corners and one compression funnel in the middle of the slope.
Sheds are equipped with one gutter. The number of intake and compression funnels is calculated according to the standard rules for pitched planes, as in the previous paragraph.
Four-pitched equip with gutters around the perimeter. All corners are equipped with water intake funnels. Long slopes are equipped with compression funnels, which are recommended to be placed symmetrically relative to each other.

Compression funnels are needed to provide a reserve for linear expansion when the drain is heated. At the same time, they will play the role of a stiffener and prevent the long gutter from sagging.

The calculation of the number of rotary elements and downpipes is purely individual. It all depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof to be equipped, the height of the building and the length of the slopes. There is general rules assembly and installation of gutters, which should be taken into account regardless of the type of construction, system material, configuration and dimensions of the roof:

Installation of the drain is carried out according to the "top-down" scheme. First, the water intake part is assembled and mounted: gutters with funnels, then downpipes.
Gutters must be installed with a slope in the direction of the water intake funnel. The slope is formed by lowering the system by 2-3 mm per linear meter.
The overhang of the roof must cover the gutter by 1/3 of its width, so that during heavy rainfall, drops do not overflow through the water intake.
The outer edge of the gutter should be 2 cm below the line that conditionally continues the slope.
Between outside frontal board and the edge of the eaves should be 30 - 70 cm.

If not technical feasibility install the gutter according to the specified distances, the roof must be equipped with snow protection.

When designing, it should be taken into account that the fastening of the clamps of the gutter riser to the wall sheathed with siding can only be done on the crate.

Installation of the polymer version

Do not forget that polymer elements have the ability to expand when heated. Therefore, we retreat 5–10 cm from the edge of the frontal board on both sides, if the system is linear in shape, and use compression parts on long slopes and corners.

Consider the simplest example installation of a drainage system on one slope with brackets attached to the frontal board. A gutter will be laid along the cornice overhang, ending in a convenient corner for collecting water with a water intake funnel with a riser attached to it.

The actions of an independent installer will take place according to the following scheme:

Frontal board layout. We mark the attachment point of the extreme bracket under the gutter. Do not forget that it should be 3 × N mm higher than the opposite point where the funnel will be located (N is the distance between the attachment points in m). We mark the point of the central axis of the funnel according to the calculations.
We install the extreme bracket and funnel according to the markings. It is better to buy a funnel already with a plug located on the required side of the water collector.
We stretch the twine between the established extreme points of the system. It will indicate the mounting line of the intermediate brackets. The bracket closest to the funnel must be removed from it at the distance specified by the manufacturer (5 - 10 cm). According to the markup, we install intermediate brackets.
Installing the gutter. Its elements are wound into the far edge of the hooks and snapped into place. Factory-made parts have assembly direction marks, limit edges, and alignment marks. temperature regime, indicating in what position it is necessary to connect the parts at specific degrees. We work according to the manufacturer's instructions.
We equip the edge of the gutter with a plug. If the funnel was bought without a plug, then it too.

The assembly of the gutter riser is usually carried out after laying the roofing. The process can be conditionally divided into three stages: the construction of the transition to the riser, the device of the riser itself and the connection of the outlet.

The final stages of the assembly of the drainage system are as follows:

We put a transition elbow on the funnel pipe. It should go all the way. To go to the drainpipe, you will need two elbows with an equal angle. Transitional elbows are released at 67º or 45º.
We attach a second knee to the wall with an equivalent angle. We measure the distance between them and cut off the pipe of the resulting size. We cut with a hacksaw for metal, we clean the cut from burrs.
We assemble the transition, fasten the lower knee with a clamp.
On the facade, strictly under the funnel, we mark and fix the clamps for the gutter riser. Standard distance between clamps is 1.5 m, maximum 1.7. But it should turn out so that there is at least one clamp for each pipe segment.
We mark the point for attaching the drain, the lower edge of which should be 25–40 cm above the ground.
We fix the clamps, assemble the drainpipe. The clamps should not be tightened to the stop in order to leave the drainage system the ability to move slightly with linear expansion.

If the installation used couplings, the places of their fastening must be marked in order to fix additional clamps at the marked points. Do not forget that the gutter riser must be perfectly vertical, so we mark up the facade using a plumb line.

Upon completion of assembly and installation works, means of protecting it from clogging are installed. It is advisable to equip the gutter with a grate that prevents clogging from the penetration of debris and foliage. If the drainage system is too light or there was no suitable grate on sale, a net similar to an inverted basket is put on the funnel.

Video to help self-installers

Instructions for installing a plastic gutter system:

The specifics of the assembly and installation of a metal drain:

A detailed demonstration of the manufacture of a drain from sewer pipes:

You can handle the installation, assembly and even the manufacture of a drainage system with your own hands. The main thing is to follow the technological rules and follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Today, industrial gutters coated with a polymer layer are on sale. Such structures can serve for a long time, but they are not cheap. Therefore, many owners country houses prefer to make drainage systems on their own, using, for example, tin or roofing iron.

How to make a project

The main structural elements of any drainage system are:

gutters;
funnels;
water pipes.

Flowing down from the roof, rain or melt water first enters the gutter. Then it enters the funnels and goes through the drainpipes into the storm sewer of the house. The gutters are attached to the roof structures by means of brackets. Clamps are used to fix the drainpipes to the wall of the house.

When designing a drainage system country house it is important to decide:

gutter dimensions;
cross-section of drainpipes;
the number of fasteners;
step of installation of downpipes.

It is believed that for buildings with a roof area up to 70 m², the diameter of the downpipe should be 50-70 mm, and the gutters 70-115 mm. For a building with a roof area up to 100 m², these figures should be 75-100 mm and 115-130 mm, and for an area over 100 m² - 90-160 and 140-200 mm, respectively.

Downpipes in suburban buildings are usually installed in increments of 8 m. That is, no more than 1-2 such elements are usually mounted on each wall of the house.

Brackets are purchased or made independently at the rate of approximately 1 pc. per meter of gutter length. Do-it-yourself clamps for installing a drainage system will need two for each pipe segment.

When assembling the drainage system of one-story houses of a small area, no more than two downpipes are usually installed. Moreover, these elements are assembled in this case from a maximum of two segments. That is, for the installation of the drain of such a building, it will be necessary to make no more than 8 clamps.

What materials and tools will be required

Tin for assembling a drain with your own hands should be taken galvanized. Simple metal under the influence of water subsequently rusts very quickly. It is believed that for the manufacture of gutter systems for country houses, tin with a thickness of about 0.55 mm is best suited.

Brackets designed to attach the gutters to the roof can be purchased ready-made, or you can also make your own from steel strips. The material in this case should be taken thick enough. After all, during operation, the gutter will be subjected to quite serious loads. Do-it-yourself brackets should be made of steel 2 mm thick.

Roof drains can be made from sewer pipes or also from 0.55 mm thick sheet metal. In the latter case, you will need, among other things, a mallet. You will also need to prepare one old metal pipe that is strong enough.

How to make a gutter

The roofs of even a not too large country building usually have a significant area. It will most likely be problematic to make the required number of gutters of a semicircular section without special equipment for the drainage of a private house. Therefore, self-made elements of this type usually have a triangular or U-shaped section.

Gutters of drainage systems of country houses are made according to the following method:

from a sheet of tin, strips about 300-350 mm wide are cut;
the strips are bent into a triangular or U-shaped trough.

For a one- or two-story suburban building, gutters of this size will most likely be sufficient. In order for the folds in the manufacture of this element of the drainage system to be even, it is worth using the following technology:

exactly in the center of the strip cut off from a piece of tin, a marking line is drawn;
one half of the strip is placed under a thick board;
the second half is folded onto the outer part of the board.

When making a gutter, bending the tin should not be done with your hands, but with a second board. In this case, the material will not go in “waves”. It is better to bend the tin with not a thick, but a thin board of about 20 mm.

In order to avoid injuries in the future when cleaning the drain, the edge of the gutter, which will subsequently be located outside, should be additionally bent inward twice. In order for the edge to turn out to be even, in this case, not a board should be used as a template, but, for example, a steel corner.

How to make brackets

Fasteners for the gutter are usually made as follows:

pieces about 400 mm long are cut off from a steel strip 2 mm thick and 20 mm wide;
the strips are bent in half at an angle of 90 °;
one of the sides is bent again 90 ° inward;
two holes are drilled in the end thus bent;
the remaining long end is given a configuration corresponding to the section of the gutter;
drill holes for fasteners under the gutter.

The end of each strip, bent at an angle of 90 °, will subsequently be attached to the roof structures. A gutter is installed on the strip itself during the installation of the system.

How to make downspouts

Roof drainage systems for one-story houses are often made without downpipes. When using such structures, melt and rain water simply drains from the gutter that extends beyond the plane of the wall down into a storm well or into a receiving barrel.

Of course, it is easiest to equip a roof drainage system of this type for a private house. But if you wish, of course, you can supplement this design with drainpipes. This element of the roof drainage system of a country house is usually made using a mallet using the following technology:

a strip 300-350 mm wide is cut off from a sheet of tin;
the strip is installed on a metal corner;
on both sides of the strip, on each side, at an angle of 90 °, the edges are bent to one side;
the workpiece is turned over and the bending angle is increased to 150°;
two more hook-shaped bends are performed in the other direction;
the workpiece is wrapped around a pipe of the appropriate diameter;
the bends are hooked one after the other;
the hooks are tapped with a mallet until the metal is flattened.

Funnels for drainpipes are made using approximately the same technology. But in this case, a piece of tin is usually cut in the form of a trapezoid in such a way that the funnel enters the downpipe to a length of about 5-10 cm.

How to make clamps

These elements, if desired, can also be made by hand. In this case, it is worth using the same steel that was used for the manufacture of brackets. The strips in this case should be cut in accordance with the diameter of the downpipe. In order to find out the length of these elements, you just need to add 4-5 cm to the total circumference of the pipe.

After the strips are cut:

holes are drilled on both sides of each of them at the same distance;
with the help of pliers or a vice, the “ears” are bent.

Each clamp is subsequently made of three of these elements:

holes are additionally drilled in the center in two strips;
all strips are bent in a semicircle along a piece of some pipe;
strips with central holes are connected to each other by bolts in perpendicular planes.

Subsequently, during the installation of downpipes, an element assembled from two strips will be attached to the wall. The remaining strip will fix the pipe itself. The strips used to attach the clamp to the wall can be made shorter if desired than those that will “squeeze” the pipe.

How to assemble the system

Do-it-yourself metal gutters are installed on the roof as follows:

brackets assembled from steel strips are attached to the frontal board with two bolts;
the gutter is installed in the brackets so that the edge of the roofing material enters it;
the gutter is fastened to the brackets with bolts;
downpipes with funnels are fixed to the wall of the house on clamps.

The brackets to the frontal roof board should be fastened in such a way that the gutter subsequently had a slope towards the downpipe funnel of about 1-2 mm per 1 m. Of course, this element cannot be installed strictly horizontally. Otherwise, water will begin to stagnate in the gutter in the future.

Also, the brackets are fixed taking into account that they fall, including on the overlaps between separate elements gutters. The overlaps themselves should have a length of at least 15-20 cm.

Each subsequent element of the gutter should be installed on top of the previous one along its slope. Otherwise, water will flow into the joints, which will negatively affect the operation of the drainage system.

Any building needs high-quality removal of precipitation. The roof itself is airtight, and storm water and snow go away thanks to the slopes. But if the flowing moisture gets on the facade or foundation of the building, then they will become damp and wear out faster. Therefore, every building needs a drain. This is a protective structure, consisting of a system of gutters located along the perimeter of the roof, and outlet pipes.

Why do you need a drain

An external drain is a complex of open gutters that collects moisture from the roof and directs it into vertical outlet pipes. The places where the structure ends are equipped with water collection tanks or storm sewers.

The gutter protects the house from the damaging effects of moisture

Gutter functions

The drain performs the following functions:

Protective. It consists in diverting wastewater from the walls and basement of the house.
Decorative. A beautiful homemade gutter will decorate your home or gazebo.
Cumulative. With such a system storm water you can fill a special reservoir for irrigation.

Industrial drains are made of special plastic or galvanized steel and their cost is quite high. And if you add plugs, funnels, corners and knees, then the price will double. Ready-made parts have their own advantage - they are easy to assemble, like a designer. To save money, the craftsmen found an alternative and began to independently manufacture drainage systems from improvised means, for example, from plastic sewer pipes. Therefore, if there is already a house or cottage, but there is no drain, then you can risk making it yourself.

Homemade gutter can last for many years

If you approach the matter wisely and choose the right material, then a home-made drain can be used as the main one.

Types of drains

Drainage is of the following types:

External or external. This type is suitable for self-assembly.
Internal, which is also provided for in the project. Most often, this type is installed on flat roofs; pipes made of any material are suitable for it.

Materials for homemade gutters

Previously, only metal was used to assemble ebb systems. More often - galvanized or polymer-coated steel, less often - copper or aluminum. Now the range of suitable materials has increased significantly:

Gutters made of galvanized steel. They are durable, reliable, resistant to loads and temperature fluctuations. Their disadvantage is noise and susceptibility to corrosion.
Galvanized steel is one of the most popular gutter materials.
PVC drainage systems. They are lightweight and low noise, easy to assemble and well resist temperature changes.
PVC gutter - reliable and silent
Drainage systems from sewer pipes. Thanks to convenient installation and a wide variety of adapters, such pipes have become an excellent replacement for PVC industrial drains.
Sewer pipes are an excellent material for a drain
Ceramic pipes and gutters. They will need special clay and pottery skill.
Ceramic pipes are very durable
Ebbs from plastic bottles. They are quick to install, but are suitable as a temporary alternative.
Bottle plastic is the most affordable material for creating drainage
Wooden gutters. Made by hand, they last a long time only in case of special processing.
The wooden gutter is very decorative.
Copper drains. Suitable for long-term operation, but over time become covered with a patina.
Copper gutters look noble and prestigious

For handmade standard drainage systems often use plastic sewer pipes. They have a number of undoubted advantages:

affordable price;
a wide range of pipes and adapters, as well as various mechanisms for fastening;
light weight, which facilitates transportation and installation;
the possibility of self-cutting;
durability.

Since such pipes are different colors, you need to figure out which of them are recommended to use for arranging a drainage system:

How to make a gutter with your own hands

Before buying pipes, a diagram of the entire system is drawn up, including all parts of the structure and their number:

The cross section of the pipes is selected based on the area of the roof slope. You can use the following scale:

slope area up to 50 sq. m - pipe diameter 8 cm;
up to 125 sq. m - 9 cm;
over 125 sq. m - 10 cm.

The remaining elements are purchased based on the diameter of the pipes from which the gutters are made.

As already noted, before buying materials and installing a drain, you need to draw detailed diagram, which should include:

roof perimeter;
length and number of gutters;
attachment points for brackets, joints and funnels;
location of drains.

Based on the perimeter of the roof, the footage of the pipe for future gutters is determined. Since it is sawn in half and two are obtained from one workpiece, the required length of the pipes will be equal to half the perimeter of the roof. Next, the number of drainage risers is calculated. To do this, a plan is drawn on which all elements are marked. The distance between them cannot exceed 5 m. After determining the number of gutters, their length is calculated, for which the distance from the cornice overhang to the ground is measured. This will be the estimated height of the drainage riser. This figure is multiplied by the number of parts and the desired pipe length is obtained. Next on the project, the tees connecting the gutters and risers are calculated. If the risers deviate at an angle, ready-made adapters are purchased. A special universal sealant for joints is also required.

Tools for the job

For work you need:

wood screws;
screwdriver;
grinder, jigsaw;
hacksaw for metal;
screwdriver;
building cord;
level and tape measure;

You will also need scaffolding.

Construction of a drainage system

After purchasing the materials, you can begin to manufacture and assemble the drainage structure.

Creating gutters

To make a gutter from a pipe, it should be cut in half. This can be done with a grinder by choosing a diamond-coated disc and segments. Then the plastic will not melt when cutting. You can also use an electric jigsaw. For convenience, you need to design something like a guide and fix it on the workpiece so that the cut is even. It can be done with a simple hacksaw. A ruler attached to the workpiece with tape, or a thread stretched over self-tapping screws screwed into the pipe from both ends can act as a guide. The sections of the pipe included in the tee are not sawn. This guarantees reliable connections.

From one plastic pipe, two drainage gutters are obtained

Manufacturing and installation of brackets

Brackets are used to secure the gutters. You can buy them or make your own from strips of sheet metal, bending the gutter to fit. The bracket is the basic component of an outdoor gutter that supports the gutter. With the help of hook-shaped holders, a configuration of the water intake circuit is formed.
Brackets can be made independently from a strip of steel with a thickness of at least 2 mm, because they must be reliable. You can buy ready-made strips for electrical work. Their cross section is initially suitable, it remains only to cut the blanks along the length.
Workpiece size:

To make all brackets the same, you can use a tool for bending steel strips or steel pipe right size as a template. It is also recommended to fill nails on a thick board in the desired sequence and bend the holder using a piece of pipe as a lever.
After shaping, holes are drilled in the brackets - two for attaching to the cornice, the next two for attaching the gutter. Finally, the holders are painted with rust paint - it is more durable. Brackets are attached in several ways:

Brackets are mounted taking into account the following principles:

Having chosen the method of fixing the brackets, you can get to work:

The first two extreme brackets are attached, between which the necessary slope is maintained.
The two end brackets are attached first.
A cord is stretched between the fixed brackets, and places for attaching all other elements are marked along this straight line.
The brackets are screwed to the base in increments of 550–600 mm.
A distance of 5-6 cm is maintained between the brackets
Next, plastic adapters or funnels of the future drain are mounted. One funnel is able to collect water from 120 m of roof.
The hole for installing the funnel is cut with a hacksaw.
Gutters are installed. They gather both on the ground and under the roof. The main thing is to correctly connect the joints. They are attached with glue or docked using special aluminum clips. In case of docking, the use of sealant is mandatory. Bracket mounting height varies by region. If there is little snow in winter, then you can fix it where it is convenient. Otherwise, the gutter is lowered so that the snow coming from the roof does not take the drain with it.
Gutters are docked with clips or put on glue
When the gutters are assembled and lie on the brackets, the adapter pipes from solid pieces of pipes are inserted into tees or drain funnels. Before that, they are treated with a sealant. A plug must be installed at the upper end of the drain system.
The plug is mounted on a rubber seal

Video: installing cornice brackets

Installation of external drainage risers

Assembling downspouts looks the same as joining gutters. If the pipe is lengthened, then an adapter is placed on the sealant between the segments. The process requires compliance with a number of rules:

the drainpipe should move away from the wall by 10 cm;
for fastening to the walls you need to use clamps;
the pipe should be mounted from top to bottom;
insert the upper section into the funnel and fix with sealant.

If necessary, the riser pipe can be connected to a storm sewer adapter. It is recommended to replace it with a knee, under which a container for flowing water is placed.

The installation of the downpipe must be carried out in accordance with the regulations

It is recommended to additionally protect the finished drain from littering by installing a construction mesh twisted into a roll into the gutters. The diameter of the rolled roll should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the pipe from which the gutters are made. The protection is fixed with plastic clamps.

The gutter can be protected with a mesh of different materials

Video: drainage from sewer pipes

Homemade galvanized steel gutter

Creating a drainage system from galvanized steel requires certain knowledge and skill. Roofing sheet steel 0.5–0.7 mm is usually used. It should not be less than 270 g per sq. m.

Instruments

It is necessary to prepare:

metal scissors;
marker for marking;
hammer and mallet;
pliers.

Making a pipe from tin

Pipes are a simple element of a drain system and are very easy to make at home. Sheets of galvanized steel or thin tin are suitable for work. The manufacturing method of these materials is the same.

It is easy to make a steel pipe yourself

Step-by-step instruction

Work is performed in the following sequence:

Calculation of the amount of materials and their purchase.
The weight of the steel sheet must be at least 270 g per square meter. m
A sheet of metal laid on a flat surface is cut to the size of the gutters and pipes of the future drain. The width of the blank for the pipe should have a margin of one and a half centimeters to connect the edges. A fold line is also applied - on one side at a distance of 0.5 cm, and on the other - 1 cm. Before shaping, the workpiece can be painted to extend its service life.
To make the drainpipe last longer, it can be painted
With the help of pliers, the pattern is bent from the smaller side at an angle, and from the larger side - the letter G.
The metal is leveled with a mallet at a right angle. The sides of the workpiece are connected, and the smaller part should go into the larger one.
Cylindrical or semi-cylindrical shape of the workpiece can be given manually using a template. A sheet of metal is laid on a pipe or log of the desired diameter and tapped with a mallet.
You can shape the pipe for the drain with your own hands

Steel gutter installation

The principles of installing a gutter system made of galvanized metal are similar to installing a drain made of plastic pipes. But there are also differences:

After determining the starting point, the gutter brackets are mounted.
Metal gutters are overlapped 7-10 cm long. The overlap is designed to compensate for the expansion of the metal in the summer.
Funnels are installed, which should be located between the brackets. The holes for the funnels are cut with scissors for metal.
The funnels are connected to the pipe at a sufficient distance from the wall.
Pipes are fixed with clamps.
An ebb is attached at the bottom of the pipe.
An anti-icing system is installed.

Video: construction of a metal drain

Drainage from plastic bottles

The cheapest and easiest option is to create a drain from plastic containers. Accumulate right amount such material will be simple, but for the design you will need 1.5-liter straight-shaped bottles. In addition to them, you will need wire and brackets.

Drainage from bottle plastic is assembled very quickly and is cheap

Tools and materials for work

It is worth preparing:

furniture stapler and brackets 10–12 mm;
construction knife;
drill or screwdriver;
thin drill;
wire;
awl;
plastic container.

Step-by-step instructions for making a drip from plastic bottles

The first step is to calculate the length of the future drain. For convenience, you can draw a sketch. The functional part of the bottle will be 15–20 cm. This plastic is not suitable for long (more than 5 m) structures.
Bottles are cleaned of stickers and labels.
Then, the bottom and the neck are cut off from the plastic container in the place where the upper part narrows. For the gutter, the resulting cylinder is sawn in half.
A plastic bottle needs to be prepared to make a drain out of it.
The gutter is assembled from plastic rectangles using a stapler. The plastic is overlapped (1.5 cm) and fixed with two or three staples. The bottoms are used as plugs for swivel structures.
You need to fasten the parts of the bottles for the gutter with a stapler
The resulting light gutter is attached to the roof. To do this, in slate or another roofing material holes are drilled at a distance of 20–30 cm. Similar holes in the gutter are made with a screwdriver or an ordinary awl. Next, a wire is passed through the holes, which attaches the spillway to the roof.
Drainage is also easily constructed from bottles. We cut off the neck of one, and from the rest we make already familiar cylinders. A bottle with a cut off neck will act as an adapter - it will need to make a hole in it for the edge of the gutter.
The finished construction of plastic bottles will last about a year

The finished design will last at least a year, but then you have to take care of creating a more advanced system.

Video: plastic bottle gutter

It's obvious that independent creation gutter system is available to anyone who wants to equip their home with an economical and practical design.

In hardware stores you can find a lot of options for ready-made drainage systems, but their cost is high. Having learned how to make a gutter with your own hands, you can make such a structure from steel sheets with different type coatings. It will cost inexpensively, and it will serve as reliably as made in production.

The selected material must be distinguished by strength, durability and resistance to environmental influences - precipitation, temperature extremes and ultraviolet rays.

To some extent, these requirements are met by:

Sheet galvanized steel is a budget option that is actively used to create gutters for drainage systems. Its disadvantage is not too high strength, the structure can be damaged by a crowbar during cleaning from ice.
Polymer coated metal. They are great for buildings whose roof is covered with metal tiles, since it is easy to choose a material that matches the color. Resistance to low temperatures and corrosion make steel gutters with protective film polymer is a good choice. The only negative is the noticeable noise that occurs when the water passes through the gutters.
Painted sheet steel. Such designs will require periodic renewal of the coating. Not a very good choice for houses covered soft roof– Abrasive particles that get into the gutters together with rainwater will gradually destroy the metal.
Plastic. Durable and corrosion-resistant material, products from which are quite easy to assemble. The design is resistant to ultraviolet radiation, is not destroyed by abrasive particles, acid precipitation. Doesn't make noise.
Copper and zinc-titanium alloy. They are distinguished by durability, strength and reliability, but they are very expensive.

The main elements of the drainage system

Gutter system of any type consists of standard elements, each of which is responsible for a specific task:

Gutters. Water flowing from the roof enters the gutters located along the perimeter of the building.
Water pipes. From the gutters, drains are discharged down the pipes.
Funnels. Connect the gutters and pipes together.
Plugs. Elements that control the rate of precipitation runoff serve as limiters.
Adapters and couplings. Details with which straight sections of the structure are connected together.
Tees, elbows, elbows. They are used to distribute water, bring drainpipes closer to wall surfaces, and for corners.
Brackets and holders. With their help, the gutters are fixed.
Clamps and pins - fasteners for pipes.

When designing gutters for the roof of a private house with your own hands, take into account:

The diameter of the gutters and pipes. In each case, they are selected individually, taking into account the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof, the abundance of precipitation in the region, the angle of inclination of the slopes. Average parameters for small buildings ( country houses, garages) - d gutters 7-11.5 cm, d pipes - 5-7 cm; for a cottage or a house of medium size - d gutters 11.5-13 cm, d pipes 7.5-11 cm.
Location of drainage and water intake elements. The scheme depends on the type of roof and the length of the overhang. Pipes are usually installed in the corners of the building.
The number of materials. For an accurate calculation, you will need to calculate the total footage of the gutters (the perimeter of the building and a small margin of about 5%). The number of funnels and pipes must be determined by yourself, focusing on the length of the walls - they are installed at a distance of 10 m from each other. The length of the pipe depends on the height of the building (from ground level to overhang). The distribution, corner and connecting parts of the structure are determined individually, taking into account the configuration of your home.

Production of gutters from steel sheets

Galvanized steel gutters are the most popular and budget option. For the manufacture of a drainage system, you can use sheet metal with a polymer coating, which is more resistant to external influences, the procedure will remain the same.

Materials and tools

To create a gutter with your own hands you will need:

sheet material 0.5 mm thick;
hammer;
pliers;
metal scissors;
marking marker.

When performing work, it must be taken into account that the width of the workpiece must be 1.5 cm larger than the diameter of the pipe - this gap is needed to connect the elements.

Pipe

Pipe making instructions:

A pattern is made on a metal sheet based on the previously calculated parameters. From one edge, running along the length of the sheet, you need to draw a straight line at a distance of 0.5 cm, from the other - with an indent of 1 cm.
Cut out the piece with scissors.
A section with an indent of 1 cm is bent with pliers at an angle of 90 °, the second edge is also bent, but at a slight angle.
The workpiece is rolled up in the form of a pipe, while both folded edges should enter one into the other.
Using a hammer, the pipe is lightly crushed to give it shape and make it easier to connect to the next element.

gutter

How to make a semicircular gutter yourself? Ideally, this work requires special equipment, since without it the product will have an uneven shape, but if it is not available, you can try to do it on your own.

A workpiece is cut out of a metal sheet, its pipe or tree trunk of the required diameter is applied, and with the help of a mallet, the workpiece is given the required shape.

Funnel

The part consists of two glass pipes of different diameters, the diameter of which must be equal to the diameter of the pipe. The components are made independently using the method described above, however, in the manufacture of the edges, they should not flare inward, but outward.

Installation of a self-made drainage system

When all the elements are ready, proceed to the assembly of the drainage system.

Installation can be done different ways, the choice of method depends on the fasteners and the time of year when the work is carried out.

It is advisable to install a drainage system even before the roof has been covered. The most reliable and successful way is to install it on a rafter or on the outer beam of a pitched roof. This allows you to protect the suspended fastening structures from rain by covering them with a cornice strip.

If the roof is already installed, use a different method.

Work order

First, brackets are attached that will support the gutters. They are placed every 55-60 cm, while the level should decrease towards the drain. The holders should be installed so that the roof overhang extends about a third of the semicircle, the remaining two thirds will collect rainwater flowing from the roof.

To install brackets on a wooden plank of the cornice under the desired slope, use the following method:

Mount the highest positioned holder.
Install the bracket located at the lowest point (increase the slope by 5 mm every meter). If the recommended angle of inclination is not maintained, water drainage will be difficult, and leaks may occur.
Two installed brackets are connected with a thin rope, a line is drawn along the wall along the rope.
At the required distance, the remaining supporting elements are installed, placing them along the marked line.

After that, the gutter is installed, a plug is placed on the edge located above everything. At the junction with the gutter of the pipe, a hole is cut out for the funnel, and the latter is installed.

After these works proceed to the installation of sewage pipes. Clamps are used to secure them along the wall.

If there is a storm sewer on the site, the pipe is diverted to it. In its absence, in the case of water drainage into the soil, the pipe is placed at a distance of 30-35 cm above the ground.

To prevent the system from becoming clogged with fallen leaves, it is advisable to install protective nets on the gutters. They will not interfere with the collection of water, but will protect the gutters and pipes from large debris.

In ready-made systems, such protection is almost always supplied as a kit, and when self-manufacturing drainage system it is easy to do it yourself.

This will require metal grid in rolls. Having cut the strips, the width of which is slightly greater than the diameter of the gutter, it is fixed on the elements of the discharge system using conventional plastic clamps.

Both ready-made and do-it-yourself drainage systems need to be regularly inspected and cleaned of contaminants. Even a metal mesh will not protect the structure from dirt, dust, and small debris getting inside. Accumulating, they can impede the outflow of water or form blockages in the pipes. This can lead to the fact that water will fall on the walls of the house and erode the foundation.

Having learned how to properly make gutters for the roof with your own hands, you can save a lot if you do all the work on the manufacture and installation of the produced system yourself. At the same time, it is important to carefully observe the technology of work, and when drawing up the installation scheme, accurately measure. The design, made in accordance with all the rules, will reliably cope with the task and will last for many years.

In order to preserve the facade finish and the integrity of the foundation, to avoid the troubles associated with dripping water from the roof during the thaw, it is not necessary to spend a lot of money on the purchase of ready-made drainage systems. You can make drains from sewer pipes with your own hands. At the same time, such designs will be aesthetic and will not yield to finished products in functionality.

The purpose of the drains is known to everyone, and it is easy to make sure that they need to be installed visually by observing how they look in the rain or during a thaw and the facade of a house without a drainage system from the roof. Streams of water pouring onto the wall cladding and spoiling it appearance, drops and jets that fall on people suitable or leaving the house, puddles near the house itself - this is not a complete list of troubles.

Drains from sewer pipes can not only divert water into or into a drainage ditch, but also send it to special containers for subsequent use when irrigating the site.

Advantages of drains from sewer pipes

Installation of drains from PVC sewer pipes has a number of advantages:

Such systems are economical due to the low cost of the material.
It is easy to find pipes on sale various diameters and fittings corresponding to them, as well as devices for fixing structures on vertical and horizontal surfaces (usually used in this capacity).
The light weight of plastic pipes facilitates transportation and installation.
Plastic is easy to cut (you can use a grinder and even a simple hand saw). Thus, cutting the pipe to the required length and even turning the pipe into two gutters using a longitudinal cut will not be too difficult.
The material of sewer pipes is not only absolutely not subject to corrosion, but also resistant to low temperatures, ultraviolet rays and other types of external influences, which ensures the durability of the system.

PVC plastic sewer pipes of different diameters that can be used to create drains

System calculation

When calculating the drainage system, it is necessary to determine the number of pipes intended for the production of gutters and pipes that will be used as vertical drains, as well as the required number of brackets and clamps for fixing them. The easiest way to depict the results of calculations is as a sketch. This will allow not only to avoid mistakes, but also to produce the optimal cutting of the material, based on the fact that the reliability of the system is the higher, the fewer joints there are between its elements.

The total length of the gutters is equal to the perimeter of the roof. The required number of pipes will thus be half as much, since each of them will turn into two gutters when cut.

The number of pipes required to make vertical drains is calculated as follows:

For self construction drainage systems from sewer pipes use pipes and fittings of various diameters.

The gutters are made of pipes with a diameter of 110 mm.
Vertical drains are mounted from pipes 50 mm.
Tees are purchased with the ability to connect different (50 and 110 mm) pipes.
Branch corners for changing the direction of vertical pipes for draining water into storm sewers or watering containers have a diameter of 50 mm.

Installation of a drainage system

To understand how to make a drain from sewer pipes, it is important to take into account some installation features.

Gutters around the perimeter can be installed:

to the edge of the truss system,
on the frontal bar of the eaves,
on the roof itself.

The first two options are preferable, but they are easy to implement if the drain from the sewer pipes is installed with your own hands at the construction stage, that is, before the top layer of the roof is laid.

If the system is installed in an already built house, installation on the edge of the roof is allowed. It is advisable to choose the same method with a large overhang of the roof (the edge is at a considerable distance from the wall of the house).
The gutters are installed in such a way that they go beyond the edge of the roof by a third of the diameter of the pipe section and protrude by two thirds, “catching water flows”.
In order to prevent water from stagnating in the gutters, they should be placed with a slight slope towards the funnel (2-5 mm per meter of length). The easiest way is to calculate the total slope along the side, mark the start and end points, and then connect them, marking the installation locations of the brackets. This will ensure the uniformity of the slope.
The top edge of the gutter must be at least 3 cm below the edge of the roof. snow mass or ice.

Having familiarized yourself with these nuances, you can begin to mount the drain from the roof of the sewer pipes.

For this you will need:

screws, screwdriver or screwdriver;
level and tape measure;
file, sandpaper;
hacksaw or grinder;
twine;
stairs or scaffolding.

1 stage of work

Pipes intended for the manufacture of gutters are sawn in half in the longitudinal direction. To improve accuracy, you can use a template made of wood. The edges (places of cutting) are better to be slightly sanded. When making a cut, refer to the drawn diagram - at the junctions, it is required to leave solid sections as connecting pipes for fittings.

Stage 2

Installation of brackets starts from the extreme positions. The corner elements are fastened with threaded hardware, after which a string is pulled between them to check the slope. Intermediate holders are fixed along the marked line between the extreme positions with an interval of 500-600 mm.

In a similar way, only without a slope, fixation points are marked and clamps for vertical pipes for draining are installed. It should be borne in mind that such risers should not be adjacent to the wall closely. The distance should be about 5-10 cm.

Stage 3

Gutters from sewer pipes are mounted. The elements are connected using special glue or aluminum clips. In the second case, it is necessary to use a sealant to create an impermeable joint. Plugs are installed in the same way.

An exception in terms of the assembly method are funnels. This is the only element of the system that is installed in a glueless way. To seal the joint, rubber gaskets are used, which are available in plastic fittings (tees). Such sections of the structure are assembled, as well as sewer pipes, into a socket.

Stage 4

1 - plastic gutter, 2 - bracket, 3 - fitting, 4 - plug, 5 - plastic pipe

The assembled gutter blocks are mounted on brackets and connected. Joints are sealed in a similar way. At the ends of the drain from the sewer pipes, at those that are above the entire system in level, plugs are installed.

Stage 5

Vertical drainage blocks are assembled and installed with lower fittings that change the direction of the water flow.

Gutter protection

Purchased gutter systems usually have gratings that cover the top of the gutters and protect the system from debris that can clog pipes and funnels, primarily from fallen leaves. Similar protection can be installed if a do-it-yourself drainage system is created from sewer pipes.

In this case, the mesh is purchased by the footage and cut into strips so that the diameter of the strip rolled up in the form of a cylinder is slightly less than the diameter of the pipe from which the gutter is made. Such cylinders are fixed with plastic clamps and fit into the gutters. In some cases, additional protective nets are installed on the funnels.

Flat roof gutters

The technology described above is effective for houses with sloped roofs. Drainage from a flat roof has fundamental differences. Due to the design features, water falling on its surface does not roll off. Therefore, the catchment funnels are installed directly on the surface and connected to the sewer plastic pipes, forming vertical risers that are embedded in the walls. To prevent freezing, such drains are often supplemented with a heat-insulating layer. To protect against debris, the funnels are supplied with fungus nets. Gutters for the installation of such drainage systems are not required.

You can also watch a video on the topic of our article, which shows the installation of a finished plastic drainage system.