How to make a small closet out of a large one. How to make a wardrobe with your own hands: drawings, diagrams and a design example in the PRO100 program

Sliding wardrobes are popular regardless of the footage of the apartment and the income of the owners. Attracts the convenience of their use, the ability to adapt to the conditions of the room. It is quite possible to make them yourself if you know the design features, calculations and installation.

Types of sliding wardrobes - from what material, where to install

It is easier to make a rectangular wardrobe with your own hands, radius ones with a curved surface are within the power of professionals. The most convenient place for installation is a niche. The attractiveness of this location is that an inconvenient place becomes useful, practically without affecting the living space.

Installation in the opening between rooms saves the cost of the partition and its finishing, and the built-in closet separates the rooms. The compartment can be installed in the corridor against the wall, which is especially beneficial for small apartments: Does not take up much space, which is not enough.

Cabinet sliding wardrobes are also used for zoning rooms. They do not have a back side, they have two front ones, access to the wardrobe from both sides. A small room should not be overloaded with furniture, use the standard one. in the hallway large sizes you can install a spacious wardrobe. If the area allows, then you can easily realize the dream of every woman - the closet turns into a dressing room. Costs increase with size. Below is a diagram of a large closet for the hallway.

Many materials are suitable for the compartment, among them - laminate, lining, MDF. Only in this case it is necessary to make frames for door leaf from wood. They use chipboard, which is convenient for installation due to its large size. The use of drywall is possible, but the material is fragile, does not withstand heavy loads, sags noticeably without reliable fastening. An easy option is to use old wardrobe with the replacement of swing doors with sliding doors.

Room measurements - how to avoid installation difficulties

Making furniture requires right angles, and the walls of rooms with such accuracy are rare. Deviations from a rectangular shape can be centimeters, but even a few millimeters can cause installation difficulties. This is especially true for niches, where builders very rarely maintain a right angle.

Measurements are carried out at several points, the results are recorded. We retreat 20 cm from the back wall and mark the measurement points on parallel walls. We consider the height from the floor: the first points are at a distance of 0.8 m, the second - 1.4 m and the third - 2.2 m. Then we retreat from the first measurements by 30 cm and take another one at the same height. Deviations will have to be corrected with plaster. Walls in a niche can be primed with a water-based emulsion, and then painted with acrylic enamel and forget about dust on the surface for many years.

We check the horizontalness of the floor and ceiling with a level, and there may be problems with the rectangularity of the opening. You can’t measure it yourself with a lace, and the accuracy is too low. We use a simple fixture of two rails with pointed ends. We fasten them in the middle with rubber rings, insert them diagonally into the opening, at the point of convergence we make a continuous mark with a pencil on the surface of both rails. We check another angle and look at the marks: the difference in the thickness of the risks is 0.3–0.4 mm.

Dimensional calculation - influence on cabinet design

Before installing the cabinet in a niche, we determine its width, which furniture makers mean by length. It should not be made as close as possible, it is better to deviate from the minimum niche length of 6 cm, then the cabinet is guaranteed to enter the opening. If the structure is located autonomously against the wall, we reduce the tolerance.

When determining the length, we also take into account the dimensions of the material, which must be known in advance. Using chipboard, we mean that the size of the plate is 1830 mm × 2750 mm. Drywall 2.5 or 3.0 m long, 1 m wide. We try to make the width of the cabinet equal to the width of the plate or less. Then there will be no difficulties with installation. As for lining and MDF, we try to ensure that the length of the cabinet is a multiple of the width of the strips.

Sometimes it is required to make furniture that exceeds the standard width in its width. sheet material. The easiest way is to increase the missing length with a segment. At the junctions of the bottom and ceiling, we get weakness which can deform under load. To avoid this, we put supports at the joints. You can make two cabinets, and then connect them into a single whole. The only drawback is the overspending of materials on an extra wall.

When calculating the depth, we take into account the usable space used for storage, then add 100 mm to it for the sliding system. We choose the height of the cabinet 10 cm less than the distance from the floor to the ceiling, excluding the height of the roof. This will allow you to assemble a massive product in a horizontal position, then lift it up without hitting the ceiling.

Rigid frame and strong base - a condition for the stability of furniture

With insufficient rigidity of the frame, the cabinets sway, and the main reason for this is the lack of stiffeners. A fiberboard sheet for the back walls cannot provide it. We add transverse screeds from chipboard 25 cm wide to each section at different levels, fasten with confirmations. This arrangement will provide maximum rigidity.

For a drywall cabinet frame, only a metal profile with purchased fasteners is acceptable.

Incorrect location and insufficient number of supports will cause the bottom to deform under load. To avoid this, we install supports 30–40 mm from each bulkhead. The sliding wardrobe can be installed on through supports 25 mm high with the possibility of adjustment through the holes in the bottom. The only inconvenience is the gap between the bottom and the floor, which will be a garbage collector. The second option is to use kitchen legs 100 mm high.

Filling - installation of shelves, drawers and clothes rail

If the shelves are located in separate sections at different levels, there are no problems: the use of confirmations will do. Where it is impossible to screw them in, corner furniture ties are installed. When installation on the same center line is required, a "helicopter" can be used for fastening with confirmations. In the middle of one of the shelves we screw in a confirmation, turn it along the axis. We screw two confirmations into the shelf opposite, return it to its place. On opposite sides, we also fasten each shelf with two confirmations.

When calculating the installation drawers do not forget about the height of the bottom rail so that the box does not rest against it.

To store clothes on hangers in the closet, we install a bar in a longitudinal or transverse arrangement. The classic longitudinal rod requires a minimum depth of 60 cm. The transverse version uses a retractable rod. Its fastening is carried out with four screws, which is unreliable. Instead of a lift rod, it is better to install a regular one. We fasten two longitudinal boards of chipboard vertically to the top shelf, we attach a shortened bar to them in the usual way.

Calculation of the door width - the principle "so as not to interfere"

When the door is moved to the side, it should completely open access to the section and not interfere with the pull-out of the drawer or lowering the pantograph lift. Consider an example with a three-section compartment with a width of 2100 mm:

1. We measure the width of the inner opening. In our example, using chipboard, it will be 2068 mm.
2. We take away the double width of the buffer tape pasted on the outer doors of the cabinet. The thickness of each is 6 mm, for a total we get 2068 minus 12 - 2056 mm.
3. We take into account the overlap of doors, which in a three-section cabinet is 26 mm on both sides, which is 52 mm in total. The total width of all doors is: 2056 mm plus 52 mm, 2108 mm comes out. We divide the total width by three, and it comes out 703 mm.

Such a simple calculation will provide free access to the sections.

Door suspension - features of different systems

There are suspension systems, where there are two guides, and with a monorail. The bottom rail system is the most widely used. The top rail only serves to support the doors. The system does not jam, the touch of the wings is excluded. Mounting is simple: insert the top into the groove, lift it, put the bottom in place.

The system based on the upper rail is simple, the fittings are cheap, and the installation is simple. The movement of the wings is quiet and smooth. It has significant drawbacks, so it is rarely used. If you carelessly press the door, the rollers can come out of the grooves, the door goes inside the cabinet. The upper rail does not have great rigidity; a perfectly flat ceiling and reliable fastening are required.

In a monorail system, each door runs on paired rollers on separate rails. They keep the doors from staggering to a certain extent, the lower guide is not used. The suspension is precise, rigid, well regulated. But they install the monorail mainly in the bedroom, where only adults will use the closet, since handling such a system requires accuracy.

Door structures - step by step assembly guide

1. We calculate the length of the profiles and cut them. The height of the wings depends on the clearances required for normal operation, they are indicated in the instructions for the suspension elements.
2. We drill holes for fastening the vertical handle profile: outer 10 mm, inner 5.5 mm. We drill 5.5 mm holes in the inner and outer wall, then drill up to 10 mm in the outer wall. Mounting and adjusting parts freely pass through the outer hole and are attached to the inner one.
3. We install the profiles on the filler: first horizontal, then vertical. It happens that the profile is tight, then we use a rubber mallet, with which we apply neat blows, but not directly along the profile, but through a piece of wood.
4. We connect profiles. In the upper part, we screw the self-tapping screw into the profile, but not completely, so that there is space left, install the roller and tighten the self-tapping screw. We tighten the profiles from below, insert the lower rollers into the horizontal profile, screw the adjusting screw through the hole in the vertical profile.
5. Install the top guide. There are no nuances here, the only thing to observe is the absence of gaps with the side walls.
6. Before installing the lower rail, we lay it from below, setting the stoppers, and hang one sash. We shift the bottom rail by 20 mm inside the cabinet and fasten it.

The most popular coupe designs are built-in and separate. Collect them from ready-made kits or order cutting to your own size. To facilitate calculations, we offer universal drawings of sliding cabinets. You just have to take them as a basis and adapt to the required size.

Are there many things and pieces of furniture in your house that you can easily refuse? Surely enough. However, they do not include such an item. furniture set like a closet.

After all, it is in it that you store most of your clothes, towels and bedding. And so it is almost impossible to do without it.

Of course, it is possible to replace it with cabinets and chests of drawers. But their number will be so great that the space of the room will be completely cluttered. Not everyone can afford this.

Many people live in enough small apartments in which every centimeter of free space should be rationally used, so do not forget that you can order modern wardrobes with delivery and assembly from our partners.

But often the cost of such important products is unreasonably high. And so some people are forced to refuse to buy cabinets.

But experts are sure that a way out of this situation can be found. For example, to make this product yourself.

If you are wondering how to make a wardrobe with your own hands, then we recommend that you read this article. In it, we will take a closer look at the simplest assembly example, which even a novice carpenter with no experience can handle.

Closet detail

For the manufacture of the cabinet, we will use a material such as chipboard. The thickness of one of its boards is 18 mm. In addition to the base material, a self-adhesive melamine edge with a thickness of about 0.5 mm will also be used. The product will be equipped with a standard sliding system for facades.

You can buy an edge in a furniture store. It is worth noting that to design a built-in wardrobe with your own hands, you may need a special sliding mechanism.

Most often, it is not easy to find a similar one in a regular store. Then you will need to order it. However, even in this case, the facade system will cost you much less than if you purchased a finished product.

The cabinet, which will be considered as an example, has a height of 2288 mm, and its width is 1166 mm.

Necessary tools and materials

Before you start making a cabinet, you should make sure that you have all the necessary materials and toolkit. You can find out the number of boards and parts if you carefully consider the drawing of the cabinet, which is presented to your attention below.

The standard set of tools required for carpentry to create a cabinet includes: a drill, a level, a puncher, a measuring tape, a hammer, glue, a hacksaw and connecting elements.

Self-tapping screws and dowels act as connecting elements. We draw your attention to the fact that a hacksaw should be selected one that is suitable for both wood and metal.

The bars that will be used under the coat hanger must be sawn off from a single structure. Their diameter should not exceed 22 mm for the declared dimensions of the product.

If you are not sure that you can make them correctly on your own, then the best option becomes purchase. You can buy them in a store that specializes in selling furniture fittings.

You can also buy pens in the store. When buying them, pay attention to the design. It should correspond not only to the manufactured product, but also to the overall interior design.

Note!

Manufacturing steps

At the first stage, you need to prepare all the details. Pay attention to the photo of the cabinet, made by hand, which is presented below. To create it, a circular saw was used, since it made it possible to cut the boards most accurately and accurately.

At the second stage, you should do the preparation of the edges. To stick them, you need to use a regular iron and follow the instructions.

At the third stage, grinding is performed. With its help, you will get rid of the roughness existing after cutting. To do this, you can use the usual sandpaper with fine grains.

At the fourth stage, you should start collecting boxes. An assembly example is shown in the figure.

At the fifth stage, the entire structure is assembled.

Note!

It is worth noting that the assembly of the cabinet itself is no different from the assembly of drawers. After all, the cabinet itself differs from the drawers only in its size.

In order to perform a screed on confirmations, you will need to use a hex bit. If you don’t have one at hand, you can use an ordinary manual key. However, it will take you more time to work.

Fastening the guides under the doors should be done using self-tapping screws, which have a size of 4 by 16 mm. In place, the distance between the front edge of the bottom and the sidewalls of the product should also be measured.

Be sure to make sure that the product is equipped with a high-quality system that will eliminate the possibility of cracks. This is extremely important if you plan to make a corner cabinet with your own hands, since any gaps will be noticeable.

DIY cabinet photo

Note!

A wardrobe is a bulky and fundamental thing that is necessary in every home. Often purchased furniture is not suitable for the price, as intermediaries greatly inflate prices, sometimes they do not match in size or design. In this case, you usually have to look for a small company that is ready to fulfill a personal order. However, as practice shows, workshops ask for a lot of money. by the most profitable solution in this situation is the independent manufacture of the cabinet at home.

Kinds

Before you get started, you need to decide what kind of cabinet you need. Depending on the location, there are two main types:

Embedded Models, the main advantage of which is the presence of a floor, ceiling and some walls. This condition significantly reduces the cost of the project. Such options are convenient, since they can be adjusted to any existing niche: recesses in the walls, space under the stairs. Oddly enough, this is also a disadvantage of built-in models, since they are built for a specific place and changes are no longer implied. Among other things, the curvature of the load-bearing surfaces greatly affects the quality of the cabinets, so they must be leveled before starting the project.
Cased standalone cabinets are classic version. Models can be used in any type of premises. Dismantling and transfer from place to place is possible. Also, curved walls, floor or ceiling will not affect the installation. Among the disadvantages, one can note the high consumption of materials, compared with built-in modifications, and the associated increased cost. However, with proper selection of components, the cost can be reduced.
Partially embedded models are a cross between the first two options.

Depending on the type of doors, cabinets are classified as follows:

Wardrobe with sliding doors and rigid frame. Two subspecies can be distinguished: with a roller door movement mechanism and with a monorail. After appearing on the market, such options have gained popularity with a variety of models, designs, and internal content. In addition, the advantages are multifunctionality, saving space in the room.
Models with hinged doors. Long service life is the main plus of such options. As well as practicality and durability.
Lift door options.
Open, doorless cabinets.

Designers also divide cabinets according to the way they are assembled and style. The style is diverse: folklore, hi-tech, baroque, empire, modern, rococo.

In terms of equipment, the following models can be distinguished:

Typical options are typical for large industries, are manufactured according to standard sizes, no frills. Practical and functional furniture. Most often used for offices.

Serial production is a mass option. Represents the release of products in one line, with certain characteristics within the same concept.
Modular wardrobes have always been popular. Their advantages are mobility and functionality. Such structures can be divided into separate sections, easily dismantled, rearranged, combined with each other.

If we consider cabinets in shape, then the most common options are:

Linear, in other words, straight.
Angular (depending on the shape of the angle L or U shaped).
Round. Rounded side or front panels.
Rectangular.

Depending on the number of doors, there are double-leaf, single-leaf, three-leaf or open without doors. Of course, combined options are also popular.

The most main characteristic wardrobes are functional. Only after making a decision on the purpose of the structure, all of the above classifications are taken into account. According to the purpose of use, cabinets are:

For clothes. This includes wardrobes, wardrobes, which are characterized by hangers for dresses, suits, ties, trouser holders.
For storing things. Here you can note the cabinets for bed linen, chests of drawers.
Book. Use various modifications from open to combined.
In the hallway These models are characterized by shelves for shoes and hats, hangers, hooks, holders for umbrellas, a mirror, built-in sections for outerwear.
For kitchen. Often, these cabinets are equipped with specific mesh or pull-out shelves for kitchen utensils and utensils, hooks for towels and other small items.

materials

The most common materials for the manufacture of cabinet bodies are as follows:

Drywall. If a complex configuration is expected, then it is better to choose this option. Any shape can be bent from the GKL, since it is not afraid of deformation.
MDF. From furniture panels, which do not require cladding, rigid frames are made that do not require bending. The plate is characterized by a high density, unlike chipboard, which makes it more durable. The fittings sit better inside, the probability of chips when cutting the plates is low. A conditional disadvantage is a large mass. At a cost, the material is affordable, but more expensive than chipboard.
Chipboard or chipboard. For cutting sheets, it is better to use the services of a workshop. At home, the quality of saw cuts can be disappointing due to the lack of necessary woodworking tools. From chipboard, you can perform various complex elements if you have the skills and the necessary machines. Chipboard is distinguished by a laminated layer that protects the sheet from external influences, and the user from formaldehyde. In addition, the laminate is good for decorative purposes, as it imitates various coatings.

Plywood. The material has a low cost. The service life of plywood products depends on the thickness of the sheet, the quality of gluing, and the climate in the room. In any case, it is unsuitable for large structures of large mass, since it will bend under its own weight.
Whole boards. When choosing, it is better to use wood that is easy to process. Cabinets made of wood species such as maple, ash, acacia, mountain ash, walnut, oak will outlive their creators many times over. It should be borne in mind that the cost of the project in this case increases significantly.
Old boards. IN Lately vintage style is gaining popularity. It allows you to give a second life to old things.

For example, having dismantled an old wardrobe, table, door from boards, you can create such an interior element as a wardrobe, cabinet, chest of drawers with your own hands.

Boxes. The fashionable craze for making furniture out of packaging cardboard is spread all over the world today. Typically one to three layers are used. Single-layer cardboard is usually used for internal walls and curved surfaces. To fill the volume - a material with a greater thickness. Box cabinets are the cheapest but most short-lived option.

Materials for the execution of facades are of no small importance:

The tape is convenient in every sense. For the facade, you can use the same materials as for the body, glued with a decorative coating. A wide range of films makes it possible to create vivid images, decorate a wardrobe in the style of an existing interior. In addition, it is easy to care for.

Wallpaper. An excellent and inexpensive solution for decorating the facade.

The mirror is the most popular option, but rarely carried out with self-made cabinets.

It must be remembered that the mirror surfaces are fragile, require certain tools for cutting and fitting to the required dimensions.

Clapboard. There are two types of material: wood and plastic. The facade, made of lining of various widths, is suitable for an eco-style interior, for country houses, balconies. Most often released wooden slats 4 classes. Type "C" panels are the least processed, and therefore may have knots and cracks. A, B and "Extra" are more attractive, besides they are different low level resins.

How to get started?

Initial stage self-manufacturing closet is designing.

It needs to be taken seriously, for this you need:

Determine the location of the future location of the structure. This depends on the size and quantity of materials needed.
You should decide what shape the cabinet is planned to be built: straight, corner, built-in, and so on.

Sketch out sketches of the exterior and interior content. Determine in advance how many sections, boxes, shelves will be. Fix the desired number of doors, sliding and hinged elements. Determine the order of the location of hooks, hangers, holders. Even the need to install a decorative facade should be decided at this stage.
Choose a material, determine the color of the product, comparing all the parameters with the style of the interior. If necessary, decide what texture the façade should have. Identify a company that produces furniture fittings, based on expert reviews.

After that, various measurements are performed and calculations are made. It must be understood that calculating the dimensions does not mean measuring the width and length of the cabinet. At the same time, it is necessary to measure the distance between the shelves, the width of the sections. All dimensions are transferred to the drawing for clarity.

When taking measurements, it must be taken into account that the standard sash width should not exceed one meter. In addition, it should be remembered about the thickness of the sheet from which the body is made, so 1-2 centimeters are added to the width of the sash. In the same way, the allowance for the height of the door panels is calculated.

The scheme should be clear and take into account all the desired parameters. If it is difficult to perform such a drawing yourself, then you will have to turn to specialists.

Fastening features

An important stage in the construction of a cabinet with your own hands is the selection of accessories. Today, the furniture industry offers a huge number of fasteners and connecting elements. Their characteristics depend on functional features cabinet and operating conditions.

Often for wooden cabinets with hinged doors, four-hinged door hinges are used, which are divided into several types:

Overhead. The most common option for sashes.
Semi-overlapping hinges are useful when one section is closed by two doors.

Internal or hidden are installed on inside doors.
Corner models are necessary for furniture located in corners, requiring the installation of doors at an angle of 45 degrees.

Inverted canopies allow you to open the door 180 degrees.
Piano mechanisms have a low degree of reliability, and therefore are rarely installed on cabinets.
Mezzanine hinges have a spring in their mechanism.

Glass sashes can be fixed using the following elements:

mounting strips;
fastening loops;
seal rings;
plugs.

For low canvases, two fasteners are enough; when extended to 1.5 meters or more, the number of loops is increased. Optionally, you can install a closer to protect your fingers from injury, and increase the durability of the mechanism.

There are several types of shock absorbers, different in technical parameters and installation method:

The damper is the simplest and cheapest. There are many options on the market, the simplest of which is a self-adhesive model. It is a disc of soft material with a thickness of 1.5 to 5 mm, a diameter of 7 to 10 mm, which is glued to the end of the case. For one sash you need at least two pieces.
Loop carrier. It should be noted that such designs must be purchased immediately with a loop from one manufacturer. The model has the effect of smooth closing of the sash.

Overhead and mortise shock absorbers, unlike those described above, do not depend on the type of hinges. The advantage of overheads is the ease of replacement, which happens infrequently. However, when mounting a door closer of this type, additional space is required for a hole in the box from the end wall. The advantage of the mortise option is that installation space is not required, on the other hand it is more difficult to replace it.

For folding doors, mechanisms are often installed that are designed to open up, down, or in the form of an accordion.

The models are easy to install, their cost is low, they are convenient to use:

gas lifts and lifting mechanisms combine the functions of opening and closing up and down. The fundamental selection criterion is the weight of the sash, since the device has a different degree of force.
Mechanisms for opening in parallel, at an angle and accordion. Advantage - great access to contents, improved ergonomics of cabinets. The disadvantage is the cost.

Shelf mounts also have their own classification:

Stationary are attached using several types of holders.
Overhead, which are mounted to the wall, to the cabinet body or to the facade. The shelf in this case is superimposed on top. Represent different kinds corners.

Mortise built into the cabinet.
Brackets are used for heavy loads.

Retractable options consist of rollers and guide rails along which they move. In addition, the mechanisms are usually equipped with limiters and seals.
Rotating models. The main part is the axis of rotation, usually in the form of a pipe of the required height. Additional elements - fasteners for the upper and lower parts of the axis, flanges for mounting the shelf.

How to do it yourself: step by step instructions

Before starting work on the project, it is necessary to prepare all the necessary materials, components and tools.

The following may be required:

drill or perforator;
level;
ruler or measuring tape;
pencil;
hammer;

glue;
self-tapping screws, fastening accessories;
screwdriver;

hacksaw or circular saw (if self-cutting of parts is implied);
iron;
construction knife.

The cabinet assembly scheme at home consists of several stages.

Part preparation:

From the sheets of the selected material, cabinet elements are cut: body walls, doors, shelves, drawer elements. Maximum precision is achieved with a circular saw. Sawing can also be done with a hacksaw, but in this case, without skill and experience, chips are possible.

Edge processing. For edging, PVC tapes are used, matching in color. Their cost is low, and it is very convenient to process the edges with it. Typically, the thickness of the tape varies from 0.4 to 2 mm. Usually, a thicker one is used to process the apron of visible ribs, and thinner - for those hidden from the eyes. The scheme of actions in this case is as follows.
The iron is turned on at three-fourths of its maximum power.

The tape is applied to the end with an adhesive surface, ironed several times.
The edge is carried out with a soft, dry cloth, pressing firmly.
The rest of the tape is cut with a knife.
Hardware preparation. Need to collect right amount fasteners, hinges, handles, hangers and other important little things.

Frame assembly:

If the cabinet is built-in or will be located under the stairs, then most likely it will lack any frame elements: the lower or upper bar, sidewalls. In this case, the walls should be prepared for the installation of the structure, leveled, puttied, painted or glued.
If other options for cabinets are planned, then holes are drilled in the places of future fasteners.
Attach body parts together. First of all, the sidewalls are attached to the bottom, after which it is necessary to attach the upper part to them. For work, it is better to use the simplest fasteners - confirmations.
Checking verticality with a level.
If necessary, fix the back wall.

Installation of shelves and cabinets:

To begin with, they make a markup for dividing the internal space into sections. Next, note the location of the shelves and built-in cabinets.
Install partition walls. Depending on the plan, they can be either from floor to ceiling of the cabinet, or lower. In the latter case, the presence of a horizontal partition is implied.
Fasteners for internal filling are mounted on the side and sectional panels of the frame. If stationary shelves are planned, then these can be ordinary corners. In the case of retractable shelves or drawers, guide chutes are mounted.
Installation of other elements: hooks, holders, hanger rods.

Then the doors are fixed. In order to assemble the cabinet doors, it is necessary to adhere to certain algorithms for different door options.

Closet:

Installation of the upper and lower guides, tracking their parallelism with the help of a plumb line.
Stopper installation.
Installation of roller elements on the door, if this type of mechanism is planned.
The doors are inserted into the grooves, starting from the top, until they click.
Check if the sash moves freely.
Installation of additional fittings if necessary.

Swing doors:

Hinges of the selected type are installed on the doors.
Shock absorbers are installed if necessary.
Handles are screwed in.
The verticality and the closing mechanism are checked.

Hinged and lifting doors:

For hinged doors, gas lifts are most often installed. Purchased mechanisms are always equipped with instructions. Please read it carefully before installation. First of all, fasteners for gas lifts are installed on the side parts of the cabinet body.
Such fasteners are installed on the doors that will rise.
Next, the doors are mounted using canopies or hinges from the side that is the future axis of rotation.
After attaching the elevators. To do this, their head must be put on the fasteners until it clicks on both sides.
With the door closed, make adjustments.
Professionals focus on the fact that at least 2 mechanisms must be installed on one facade in order to prevent warping.

Then the final processing of the cabinet is carried out. At the end of the assembly, a complete polishing of the appearance is performed. All screws are covered with decorative caps. Polishing with a soft cloth is necessary to clean the product from dust and drilling residues. Facades are designed depending on the designer's idea using mirrors and other decorative elements.

You can also see how to make a wardrobe with your own hands in the video below.

Organization of the internal space

The functional structure of the internal filling of cabinets consists of many elements that meet the requirements of the owner. A competent design should provide free access to any things in the closet, prevent the formation of odors.

Sliding and sliding drawers, rotating shelves are not only convenient to use, but also ergonomic in nature. They allow rational use inner space. For large wardrobes, lifting rods for hangers and trouser holders are often used, which can either rise or, if necessary, go deep into the closet. If the design is intended for the hallway, then it provides a box for storing shoes and shelves for hats.

Kitchen cabinets are filled with a variety of elements from spinning bar counters to retractable cutting board. Due to the fact that it is necessary to store many different accessories in the kitchen, the functionality of the interior decoration of the cabinets is many-sided and is determined only by the wishes of the owners.

How to place?

The closet is the most bulky element of the interior in the room. There are such options for their location, which will allow you to "hide" and not clutter up the space.

in a niche

If the apartment has natural niches, then this will greatly facilitate the task. The cabinet is simply built into them. Niches can be created artificially, which will allow not only to install storage structures in them, but also other interior elements: a fireplace, a TV.

Part of the room

If the area allows, then you can fence off a piece of the room and organize a wardrobe in it. At the same time, it is better to choose the darkest corner of the room so that the room remains bright.

Pantry

In private houses, there are always different pantries. Sometimes they are found in city apartments. If the owner wishes, the wardrobe can be perfectly hidden in the pantry. At the same time, the efforts for its design are minimal, since the functions of the body are performed by the walls of the room. It is enough to organize the internal content.

In the room

The standard options for installing cabinets in a room are as follows:

Wall to wall, floor to ceiling. Creates the effect of a solid wall. The design of facades with mirror surfaces will visually expand the space. When choosing doors of wall color, you can achieve the effect of "disappearing".

Alcove. Cabinets are installed on both sides, forming a niche between them. The alcove formed in this way is filled with any interior elements: a bed, dressing table, work zone, television.

openings. Distances between doors and windows can be used rationally with the help of modular cabinets. Structures are mounted on both sides of the opening, it is possible to organize mezzanines above the opening. The element connecting the cabinets under the window is often designed as a bench or sofa.

What can be done from an old closet?

If the old cabinet is lost appearance, but the fasteners are intact and not loosened, the body also does not have significant flaws, in this case you should pay attention to various techniques, allowing you to remake or decorate outdated furniture.

To update cabinets, there are many budget options:

Repaint yourself, for example, using stencils.
You can glue the doors with photo wallpapers or vinyl film.

If the panels are glass or mirror, then you can use the services of private workshops for matting or sandblasting.
Decoupage using vintage paper or wallpaper.
Can be used in the kitchen tile for the design of facades.

If the fasteners still loosen and fall out, store the cabinet in original form impossible. In this case, elements for a different design can be cut out of its parts. Craftsmen create benches, shelves, pouffes and other interior details.

Ideas for location in the interior

Large built-in wardrobes are popular. They are installed both in the hallways and in the living rooms. Usually they occupy all the space provided from floor to ceiling. Internal filling is organized depending on the wishes of the owner. Benefits – functionality, embedability various elements for storage of things, including vacuum cleaners, ironing boards, washing and dishwashers. Such structures can be installed in any places inaccessible to cabinet furniture, in attics, niches, corners.

Very simple! Such furniture is assembled in an evening even by those who have never held a hammer in their hands. A few hours of work, and your home will have a stylish closet from the cover of a fashion design magazine.

You can strictly follow our instructions, or you can choose your own sizes, add more shelves, hooks, and even hang cabinet doors on hinges. True, it will be a completely different model!

In order to make a wardrobe with your own hands, you will need.

Order cutting plywood 2 cm thick:

50 cm x 180 cm - for side walls - 2 parts;
50 cm x 90 cm - for the shelf, top and bottom - 3 parts;
30 cm x 180 cm - for the back wall - 1 piece;

copper or chrome pipe;
wood screws;
round mirror with a diameter of 20 cm (optional);
pipe cutter (or ask to cut the pipe right away in the store);
electric drill and drills;
grinder or sandpaper;
screwdriver;
construction roulette;
ruler.

We make a wardrobe with our own hands

As usual, we recommend not to bother with self-cutting parts, but simply buy a sheet of plywood 2 cm thick in a building supermarket and immediately ask him to cut it to the dimensions we need. The only thing to do when you bring the cut parts home is to sand them well with sandpaper or grinder, if there is.

Once!

On the side parts from the bottom edge, measure 2.5 cm up and draw a horizontal line - this will be the bottom part, the bottom of the cabinet. Measure another 50 cm up and draw another horizontal line - there will be a cabinet shelf. In principle, you can choose the height of the shelf.

On the same side parts, measure 12 cm from the top edge and draw the third line - at this level there will be a crossbar for the coat hanger. Find the center of the line and mark it with a cross - here you need to drill a hole into which the pipe will fit tightly.

Check again if you have correctly duplicated all the marks on both side parts: there should be no gaps!

We drill a hole for the pipe in one side part, put the second one under it, circle it with a pencil, drill in the second.

Two!

We collect the entire cabinet. First, we attach the upper, middle and lower shelves to one side part. After making sure that everything is in place, attach the second side part, and at the end the back.

It is better to drill thin holes first, and then put everything on self-tapping screws. And do not drive the screws all the way until you are sure that everything is in its place.

Three!

Insert the pipe into the holes, cut it to the correct level, considering whether you want to use it as an external hook as well. You can glue the mirror on the back or, for example, on the side wall. If desired, you can make additional hooks outside or inside the cabinet, for example, for belts and scarves.

Get a perfectly smooth wooden surface without changing the color - exactly as in the photo - you can use Wood Oil. Apply oil to the surface so that it is a little more than necessary, wait 15-20 minutes, wipe off the excess. If using oil with wax, remember to pre-prime the surface with a so-called Food Contact Oil.

If you want to turn an inexpensive light wood into a noble "rosewood" or "ebony" - use the Belinka Interier water-based azure of the desired shade. Apply the azure with a brush, wait 3-4 hours, apply the second layer.

If you decide to give your cabinetry a bright overlay color, use wood paint. You can immediately paint both wooden and metal parts with the same paint using Belinka Universal enamel.

Ready!

We will send the material to you by e-mail

Personal control of all important stages of production allows you to create furniture with unique characteristics without extra costs. This article talks about how to make a wardrobe with your own hands. Blueprints, detailed instructions, photo and video materials will help you realize own plans quickly and efficiently.

Even a complex project can be successfully implemented on their own after proper preparation

To figure out how to make a closet yourself, you need to clarify the purpose of the furniture. It will be useful to carefully study the following facts:

A significant internal volume implies the possibility of placing clothes and shoes, household appliances, New Year's toys, bed linen and other things. For each position, it is necessary to provide an optimal storage mode that is convenient for users.
With a large facade, aesthetic parameters are essential. Beautiful front surface will have a significant impact on the overall perception of the corresponding interior.
The choice of basic materials is the most important task. Not only the cost, but also the ease of assembly and the durability of the structure largely depend on the right decision.

Do-it-yourself wardrobe manufacturing steps

Measurements of the room and calculation of the dimensions of the closet

This tool simultaneously allows you to refine the accuracy of horizontal and vertical elements. building structures. The easiest way to take measurements for cabinet furniture. In this case it is enough to take minimum dimensions and subtract a few centimeters to make a small margin.

It is much more difficult to accurately fit the built-in wardrobe. With your own hands, you must make at least three measurements for each meter of length (height). If excessive defects are found, the surfaces must first be leveled.

Important! In any case, the free opening of the nearest window (door) blocks is checked. If necessary, install sash limiters. You should make sure that the cabinet will not close the only light switch in the room, will not be too close to the ceiling or wall light.

Preparation of design documentation for the creation of a do-it-yourself cabinet or built-in wardrobe

These programs are available on the official websites of trade enterprises. They can be used completely free of charge. Anyone can insert their own measurements. Guides are selected automatically, designed for loads determined by the size of the canvas and the material.

With its help, you can make a quality project even without previous design experience. Even a beginner will quickly master this tool using the following simple algorithm:

Drawings of details can be given to a specialized workshop, or used for the manufacture of individual parts of the wardrobe with my own hands. The electronic project is convenient for inspection from different points. In it, you can quickly make various changes, taking into account additional requirements. The generated list is used to purchase the necessary components and parts.

Important! Quite large scraps from chipboard sheets and other materials remain in the workshop. It is better to take them with you to make it easier to correct errors during the installation process and perform repair operations in the future.

Choice for wardrobe rollers, materials, equipment and other components

The drawing shows the main components of a typical design:

The lower and upper guides for the wardrobe are attached to the floor and ceiling of the room (the bottom and the cover of the furniture, respectively).
In this example, the main load is on the lower rollers. But there are also models with a hanging canvas.
The side profile "C" additionally functions as a handle.
The sealing elements are made of silicone, which ensures a secure fixing of the glass.
The middle transverse elements strengthen the power frame, separate individual elements canvases from different materials.

Do-it-yourself compartment door adjustment and other assembly features

A photo	Adjusting wardrobe doors: description of technological operations with comments
	During the first installation and during operation, the following typical problems arise: loose fitting of the valves, lack of fixation in the closed position.
	To prevent the canvas from moving back after hitting the side of the structure, a special locking element is installed inside the guide. It can be used to determine which door needs to be adjusted from a certain side.
	First, the shlegel (6÷8 cm) is separated to free access to the adjusting screw. The top hole is used during the assembly process for tightening fasteners.
	A hex wrench is used to adjust the position of the roller. IN this example master uses #4.
	Clockwise rotation raises the door. In the opposite direction - lowers.
	These procedures are performed so that when closed, the canvas fits without gaps in the lower and upper parts. After obtaining the desired result, proceed to the next stage.
	The photo shows a locking element made of reliable sheet steel with an arrow. When the roller moves to the middle part, the spring rises up, preventing it from moving backward. If this part is shifted to the central axis of the wardrobe, a gap is formed.
	Moving an element is not easy. This is prevented by the ends of the springs, which rest against the bottom of the guide rails. They select a suitable piece of plastic, a board.
	With such a device, press the stopper. Then move the node in the desired direction.
	A torn off brush can be tucked into the bottom hole, or glue can be used for a hard mount.

Direct mounting direct or corner cabinet do-it-yourself is no different from assembling standard furniture. In the same way, the bottom, walls, and lid are first installed. Then, internal and external shelves are attached to the power frame.

For your information! It is convenient to order a sliding system for a sliding wardrobe after the installation of the case. In this case, it will be possible to make an accurate measurement.

The appearance of a modern wardrobe, photo with good examples

The use of stained glass technology

sandblast drawings

Vinyl stickers

It should not be forgotten that they have limited strength. They can be damaged during the cleaning of contaminants using aggressive chemicals.

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