Wrong insulation frame house foam may cause wooden structure will fall into disrepair after a few years. How to prevent this? In this article I will try to answer the question posed and describe in detail the technology of insulation.
Thermal insulation of the frame structure with foam plastic requires compliance with the technology
Styrofoam parameters
Advantages given material:
- Low thermal conductivity. On average, the coefficient is about 0.037 W/mC;
- Light weight. The density of the insulation is in the range of 15-25 m3;
- Low cost: The price starts from 1400-1500 rubles. per cube;
- Doesn't sit down. Some types of mineral wool shrink during operation, as a result of which the upper part of the walls is not insulated. In the case of using foam, you will not encounter such problems;
Polyfoam - an effective polymer insulation with the lowest price
disadvantages:
- Zero vapor permeability. As a result, moisture that penetrates the walls from the room accumulates between the wooden elements and the insulation. This leads to rotting of the wood;
- Fire hazard. Styrofoam, especially from little-known manufacturers, burns well;
- Toxicity. During operation, polystyrene foam is harmless, however, in the event of a fire, it releases dangerous toxins that lead to severe poisoning.
Styrofoam releases toxins during combustion
Therefore, foam is far from the best insulation for frame houses. However, if the high cost of mineral wool does not suit you, you can also use expanded polystyrene, but subject to certain technology.
wall insulation technology
Insulation of the frame with foam plastic can be divided into two main stages:
Stage 1: internal vapor barrier
In order for the frame tree not to rot, the walls must be protected from steam, i.e. high humidity air. The work is done like this:
| Illustrations | Description of actions |
Materials. You will need:
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Sealing of places of abutment of a film:
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Vapor barrier installation:
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| Lathing installation. Attach to the frame wooden slats in a horizontal or vertical position, to which it will subsequently be attached finishing coating(drywall, lining, etc.). The crate can be done immediately or before installation finishing material when the wall is insulated. |
A house insulated using this technology requires effective ventilation. Otherwise, the humidity in the room will always be increased, which can lead to mold and other negative consequences.
Stage 2: installation of insulation and waterproofing
Now we start warming frame walls foam. This operation is performed like this:
| Illustrations | Description of actions |
Materials. You will need:
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Insulation installation:
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| Installation of hydro-wind protection. Now the foam walls need to be protected from the penetration of moisture from the outside. The work is carried out in the same way as the installation of a vapor barrier from the inside:
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| Lathing installation:
On top of the waterproofing, slats must be attached to the racks using self-tapping screws. Thanks to them, a ventilation gap is formed between the facade cladding and the windproof film, which is necessary to remove moisture. |
To make the surface of the walls even, check the position of the battens with a level, especially if there are flaws in the installation of the frame. To align the position of the rails, you can put plywood scraps under them.
After the insulation of the walls of the frame house with foam plastic is completed, you need to sheathe the facade. This work is carried out according to standard scheme, which I have repeatedly described on the pages of our portal, so I will not repeat myself.
I must say that we considered the process of insulating walls with foam from the outside, however, the work can be done in the reverse order, i.e. first finish the facade, and then perform the insulation from the inside.
The floor is insulated according to the same principle as the walls.
We warm the floor
Styrofoam floor insulation is performed as follows:
| Illustrations | Description of works |
Materials. For thermal insulation of the floor should be prepared:
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| Vapor barrier installation. The film should be placed directly on top of the lag. At the same time, do not forget to glue the joints and provide an overlap. | |
Insulation installation:
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Laying the top layer of vapor barrier:
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Ceiling insulation
In order for the insulation of a frame house with polystyrene foam to be effective, it is necessary to insulate the ceiling. The easiest way to perform this procedure is from the ceiling. In this case, the work is carried out in the same way as the thermal insulation of the floor.
Installation of insulation from the inside is carried out somewhat differently:
| Illustrations | Description of actions |
Materials. For thermal insulation of the ceiling should be prepared:
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| Installation of vapor barrier. Fix the film to the floor beams and attic flooring with adhesive tape and a stapler. | |
Insulation lining. The instructions for installing foam plastic look like this:
If the plates fit tightly into the space between the beams, they may not be additionally fixed. |
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| Installation of vapor barrier. Fix the film on the floor beams with a stapler, as shown in the photo. |
That's all the information on how to insulate a frame house with foam.
Output
Now you know how to insulate a frame house with foam plastic so that your housing will serve you for many years. Watch the video in this article for more. If you have any questions, ask them in the comments, and I will definitely answer you.
The quality of life in it depends on the quality of insulation work in the house. In winter it should be warm enough, and in summer it should be cool. The frame house is no exception. The lightweight construction of the house makes the insulation the only barrier to the cold.
The article describes in detail how to insulate a house with polystyrene foam, how safe and profitable it is, in comparison with other methods of insulation.
Features of warming a frame house
The frame structure of Canadian houses represents convenient solution for thermal insulation work. The material for insulation is conveniently placed between the support rails of the frame, fixed, insulated from the formation of steam, moisture, sheathed decorative panels- and that's it.
For carrying out insulation work, it is not required to involve the use of special equipment and a large team of builders. A couple of ordinary Russian men can carry out work to protect the future home from the cold.
When following the instructions and technological requirements, the ease of construction of the house is preserved, and the thermal insulation properties are superior to traditional brick, cinder block and concrete. There are few requirements for materials for warming a frame house:
- The heat insulator must be safe for health;
- Be resistant to water and fire;
- Easy to mount on any type of surface - ceiling, walls, roof and floor;
- Have the lowest thermal conductivity;
- Be resistant to mechanical damage.
Styrofoam as a heater: pros and cons
Preparing for the installation of a heat insulator
As mentioned above, you need to start with preparatory work all surfaces on which foam boards will be laid:
- gaps are blown with mounting foam;
- surfaces are carefully leveled;
- protruding objects are removed (nails, build-up debris, cement and mounting foam);
- places that have been exposed to moisture are dried so that condensation does not form in the future.
Some experts are in a hurry to reduce the cost and simplify preparatory stage, and neglect waterproofing. As an argument, they cite the resistance of the foam to water. But there is also the frame of the house, which, unlike thermal insulation, suffers from the formation of dampness. Having penetrated into the structure during the off-season with precipitation, moisture freezes in the cold season, when it is minus outside, destroying the frame that is sensitive to water and temperatures.
The moisture-proof layer is laid on the outside - for walls, roofs. He will create additional protection from wind and precipitation. All surfaces are covered with waterproofing, leaving allowances up to 10 cm. They are fixed by gluing with construction tape.
To protect against water use:
- glassine;
- polyethylene;
- penofol and other membrane materials.
The subtleties of foam insulation of individual parts of a frame house
The technologies for insulating the walls of a frame house, floor, ceiling and roof are basically the same. We will consider each stage separately, indicating the nuances of laying foam boards.
Floor insulation
Let's start from the axiom that the foundation of the house - pile-screw - is the optimal type of foundation for the construction of a frame cottage.
The foundation plays a role in the construction of a special structure designed to support all thermally insulating floor coverings. In the case of a pile-screw foundation, it is likely that the house rises above the ground at a sufficient distance to make it possible to crawl under the floor. In this case, the waterproofing membrane is installed with a mounting stapler. For tightness and exclusion of drafts, the membrane sheets are laid with laps. After the membrane, also from below, a board is nailed - it will serve as a frame on which the thermal insulation will be held. The optimal laying of the board in increments of 40-50 cm - this distance is enough to hold the heat insulator.
Floor box prepared for thermal insulation with lags If the installation is done from above, then the steps simply change places in order: first the plank frame is laid, and then the waterproofing is attached to it.
Water protection laying Logs are stuffed onto the prepared base, between which foam sheets are laid. The step between the lags is calculated based on the dimensions of the thermal insulation plates - so that they fit freely into the niches. All gaps, as mentioned above, are carefully blown with mounting foam.
The height of the lags is selected depending on the thickness of the foam sheets. If the width of the lags turned out to be a little with a margin, it's okay. In this case, the main thing is not vice versa. The whole point is that a vapor barrier membrane will be mounted on top. The vapor barrier must lie evenly on top of the thermal insulation. Vapor barrier sheets are hermetically fastened together with double-sided tape.
The last layer is a board, chipboard, fiberboard or OSB-plate, and then finishing work is carried out on laying the floor.
Covering the insulated floor with OSB boards Wall insulation
Both internal and external walls are subject to thermal insulation. The amount of material used is the same. The difference is that instead of waterproofing, a soundproof coating is used on the internal walls. its use is considered optional - the foam has good soundproofing properties.
The surface of the walls after preliminary preparation is covered with impregnation, then with an adhesive composition. The foam is glued on top. Impregnation and glue will guarantee the absence of air gaps between the frame and thermal insulation. After laying, the heat insulator is fastened with plastic dowels.
All gaps are carefully blown out so that drafts do not form. In order not to doubt whether it is possible to insulate the outer walls of a frame house with only foam plastic without using other materials, it is better to use thin sheets and lay them in several layers in a checkerboard pattern. This means that the second layer overlaps the joints of the first layer of thermal insulation. For mid-latitudes, it is recommended to lay a heat-insulating coating in three layers. One of the layers, at the same time, is blown with a special foam that is resistant to low sub-zero temperatures. It is better to process the last layer - which is closer to the facade.
Final composition outer wall(at double skinned both sides) will look like this It is better to choose waterproofing with a special adhesive coating around the perimeter - this will make installation easier, and it is more likely that the waterproofing will be airtight. If the material does not have such a feature, then double-sided tape can be used instead.
Laying waterproofing membrane overlapped, bottom-up - in order to protect the coating from moisture dripping Ceiling insulation
The ceiling foam sheathing should be approached with the utmost responsibility. During heating, warm air rises to the top. Incorrect thermal insulation of the ceiling can cause warm air to escape through voids. The house will heat the street.
It is ideal to carry out installation before the roof is completely assembled - so that it is more convenient to carry out work on laying thermal insulation.
- First, a vapor barrier is laid directly on the beams.
- A wooden or plywood frame is placed on top, which will support the foam boards.
- The next layer is laid foam, with overlapping seams and carefully blowing out gaps and voids.
When laying thermal insulation on the ceiling, the material is placed with overlaps on the walls, with their full coverage.
Overlapping walls with thermal insulation of the ceiling - a mandatory requirement If it is not intended to carry out thermal insulation of the roof, then the last layer is treated with frost-resistant mounting foam.
When insulating the ceiling from the inside of the house, all work is carried out in the reverse order. In this case, the material must be securely fixed with plastic dowels so that it does not sag over time.
Roof insulation
For creating warm attic or attic floor the roof is sheathed with foam. All work is carried out according to the same principle as the insulation of the ceiling. A prerequisite is the laying of waterproofing.
Scheme of the roof of a frame house with thermal insulation Finishing work
A prerequisite for the completion of work is the laying of a vapor barrier. Styrofoam reacts little to moisture, however, the formation of condensate can adversely affect the frame and other layers of the frame house structure. For vapor barrier, a material or its analogues from foil coatings is used. In addition, there are new membrane films on the market designed for vapor barrier of frame houses.
Waterproofing is laid with the penultimate layer from the bottom up from the outer part of the wall - to protect the thermal insulation, frame, and finish from moisture.
Immediately on the waterproofing coating, you can lay the finish. The choice depends on the wishes of the owner of the household - use siding, facing brick, blackhouse or stone.
Frame houses are becoming increasingly popular in the field of suburban housing construction. Light, economical, quickly transported, they make the dream of a country house a reality for almost every family.
- At the moment, there are two technological directions in frame housing construction:
- Canadian technology;
- Finnish technology.
Canadian technology
Due to the peculiarity of the construction region (Canada and the USA), when implementing this technology, local common materials are used - glued particle boards(OSB), polymer thermal insulation (for example, extruded polystyrene foam), prefabricated SIP panels. Most often used as exterior finish vinyl siding. In connection with the use of OSB (practically vapor-tight material), the problem of protection against moisture accumulation is not acute.
Scandinavian (Finnish) technology
A feature of the technology is the use of local high-quality lumber, the supporting frame is made of beams of a larger section. Often used as a heater mineral wool. For exterior decoration, the most common facade board for painting. As additional insulation, polymer thermal insulation is used (for example, extruded polystyrene foam). For sheathing the frame, OSB is practically not used, more often - facade and moisture resistant drywall. In the process of design and construction, the sequence of layers in the structure is observed - an increase in the coefficients of vapor permeability of the materials used in the direction - into the external environment (prevention of moisture accumulation).
In general, the technology for building frame houses is almost the same for both technological areas, the main differences are due to the availability of certain materials, as well as the culture of local construction.
The use of additional PENOPLEX® insulation for frame houses in the Russian Federation will reduce the amount of wood used for the construction of the frame by an average of 25-35%, due to a decrease in the cross section of the bearing beam, as well as significantly increase the energy efficiency of the building.
Advantages of using PENOPLEX® boards for thermal insulation of a frame house:
- Low thermal conductivity (λ = 0.034 W/m-K). To insulate the outer wall of any building, a layer of PENOPLEX® material is required 1.5 times thinner than other insulation;
- Almost zero water absorption, therefore, at negative air temperatures outside, when the dew point is in the insulation, no condensate forms in it, the material does not get moistened and does not lose its heat-shielding properties.
- Durability of more than 50 years and high compressive strength (at least 20 tons per 1 square meter), which ensures a long maintenance-free service life of the structures.
- Environmental safety - the material is made from safe raw materials, does not contain fine fibers and dust, phenol-formaldehyde resins and other harmful chemicals.
PENOPLEX employees have developed a technical map that contains a step-by-step description of the process of building a frame house with additional insulation with PENOPLEX® boards. The document includes diagrams of all constructs, specifications materials used, recommendations for installation. The technical card is available for download.
Comparative characteristics of the use of various types of insulation for frame houses
The walls of frame houses with wool have a thermal resistance 1/3 times worse than that of houses with walls made of PENOPLEX® insulation, because. cotton wool is located between the racks, which are "cold bridges". If you fix PENOPLEX® 30 mm thick outside the racks, then the reduced resistance to heat transfer will increase by 30%, and if instead of cotton wool insulation you choose insulation for a frame house from PENOPLEX outside the racks, then we will get an improvement in the thermal protection of the building by 50% !!!
Option number 1 (only cotton wool):
- timber imitation;
- Vapor barrier;
- Rack LVL 150 x 50 mm;
- Interstitial space cotton wool parks extra 150 mm;
- OSB 9 mm;
- Moisture wind protection;
- Imitation of a bar.
Thermal inhomogeneity coefficient 0.663
Reduced heat transfer resistance = 2.7 m2xdeg/W
Reduced heat transfer resistance of the structure R=2.674 m2 oC/W (corresponds to approximately 80 mm PENOPLEX®).
Additionally, at least 20 mm of mineral wool (thermal conductivity coefficient 0.042 W / mK) is required.
Option number 2 (mineral wool + PENOPLEX®):
- timber imitation;
- Vapor barrier;
- Rack LVL 150 x 50 mm;
- Interstitial space mineral wool 100 mm;
- On top of the racks Penoplex comfort 30 mm with sizing the seams with construction tape;
- timber imitation;
Thermal inhomogeneity coefficient 0.857
Reduced heat transfer resistance = 3.43 m2xdeg/W
Option No. 3 (PENOPLEX® 100 mm):
- timber imitation;
- Vapor barrier;
- Rack LVL 150 x 50 mm;
- Interstand space without insulation with electrical wiring + ventilation;
- On top of the racks Penoplex Comfort® 100 mm with gluing the seams with construction tape + plastic mushrooms with a metal core 4 pieces per 1 m2;
- timber imitation;
Thermal inhomogeneity coefficient 0.977
Reduced heat transfer resistance = 4.0 m2xdeg/W - the best way thermal resistance
The walls of a frame house with wool and PENOPLEX® are 42% cheaper than just with wool with the same thermal resistance.
Estimated cost of 1m2 for structures:
Option 1. About 936 rub/m2 for materials(taking into account additional insulation with 20 mm wool: + 33 rubles / sq. M., i.e. total: 903.5 + 33 \u003d 936.5 rubles / m2.)
Option 2. About 658 rubles / m2 the best option for insulation for frame houses at a price
Option 3. About 808 rub/m2
After the construction of the frame, it is time for insulation work. By itself, the wooden skeleton serves as an excellent basis for filling the cells with insulating material, one of which is foam. This material has excellent thermal insulation properties and other characteristic advantages, including an affordable price.
First you need to decide what types of foam will be needed to insulate the walls, floors and ceiling in the house, followed by the choice of brand of material. Then comes the time installation work, which must be carried out, following the correct methodology in compliance with all rules and regulations. As a result of all the manipulations, the building receives excellent thermal insulation and is ready for further finishing work.
Kinds
Styrofoam is not one material, but a whole class of them, the hallmark of which is a foamed cellular structure. During thermal insulation work in a frame house, the following types of foam can be used:
- PPT- polystyrene foam heat-insulating plate or "ordinary polystyrene";
- PSB-S- expanded polystyrene suspended pressless self-extinguishing, non-combustible type of foam;
- penoplex– a modified version of expanded polystyrene;
- penofol- rolled polystyrene foam with a foil backing;
- liquid foam- urea-formaldehyde foam, great for blowing out cracks, joints and other problem areas.
Each of these types has its own specifics, and its use is appropriate under certain conditions. Standard foam has several basic criteria, such as density and purpose: for walls, plinth, foundation, and the like.
Density determines the main parameters of the foam - thermal conductivity, the higher the density, the better the thermal insulation properties and strength, which is in the same progressive relationship.
The main types of foam have a density of 10-35 kg / cu. m and the corresponding marking: PPT-20 (20 kg / m3), PPT-35 (35 kg / m3) and so on. And also this parameter determines the price and scope of the foam. For example, PPT-15 is relatively soft and cannot be used for floor insulation.
PPT-35 is considered universal, having the highest characteristics, due to which it can be used everywhere, but its price is also the highest. It is not advisable to use such foam for internal insulation walls, where its strength will not bring any dividends, since it is simply not needed there. The dependence of strength on density is much higher than for thermal insulation properties. Often PPT-15 is used for roof/ceiling insulation, PPT-25 for walls and other vertical surfaces, and PPT-35 for floors.
It is not difficult to lay a heater with your own hands, if you follow the recommendations of specialists. It can be insulated with both mineral wool and penoplex. Each of them has both its pros and cons and different reviews. How to insulate, you can choose yourself.
Gradual warming of the house
vapor barrier
Styrofoam does not allow steam to pass through, and, accordingly, does not allow moisture that has entered through the facade of the building to evaporate. To prevent its penetration to the frame of the building from the room, it is necessary to make a vapor barrier.
- double-sided sealing adhesive tape;
- reinforced mesh or other material as a vapor barrier.
The work is done in a certain order.
- At the time of work, the frame must be treated with protective impregnations, then access to it will be closed.
- Dust and dirt are removed from the frame in the work area.
- The protective film is removed from the tape and applied to all frame elements with which the vapor barrier will come into contact.
- The protective film is removed from the tape on the second side.
- A roll with a vapor barrier is rolled across the racks, sequentially pressing against the tapes. The joints are glued with tape, and the webs of the rolls overlap each other by about 200 mm.
- After gluing the film, it is additionally fixed with a stapler at intervals of 25 to 30 cm.
- To provide further wall cladding and protect the vapor barrier from damage, slats are mounted on the frame. It does not matter if they will be attached immediately after the vapor barrier or immediately before finishing.
The vapor barrier technology of the walls provides absolute protection against the penetration of moisture into the foam, but prevents it from leaving the room. In this regard, the house should be equipped with a good exhaust ventilation otherwise mold and other problems cannot be avoided.
Thermal insulation and waterproofing of walls
After carrying out the vapor barrier, it is the turn of the walls to be insulated with foam plastic. For these purposes, you will need the following materials:
- PPT or PSB-S slabs 10 cm thick, foam plastic with a density of 15 kg / cu. m or above;
- film with wind and hydroprotective properties;
- rails with a section of 20x30 mm;
- adhesive sealing tape;
- assembly foam.
The work is carried out as follows.
- The slabs are laid between the racks of the frame, often the distance between them was initially laid down for the size of the slabs - 50 cm. For cutting foam, it is better to use a small hacksaw or a mounting knife.
- The gaps between the frame and the plates are filled with mounting foam.
- The second layer of slabs is laid so that the joints do not line up with the first row, otherwise there will be cold bridges. The cracks are also filled with foam.
- The film for wind and waterproofing is mounted on the outside like a vapor barrier inside. The frame is pasted over with a sealing tape, then a protective film is attached to it and subsequently fixed with a stapler.
- On top of the attached film, rails on self-tapping screws are attached to the frame. The created gap is necessary for ventilation in order to remove moisture trapped under the facade cladding. When installing the rails, you need to use a level to maintain the correct verticality of the walls. If the frame was not built perfectly, the slats make it possible to fix it. The location of the rails is easily adjusted by placing scraps of plywood under the required end.
There is no big difference between sheathing the frame from the inside first, and then from the outside, or, conversely, the sequence of these stages is left to the discretion.
Floor insulation
At this stage, you will need the following materials:
- PPT-35;
- vapor barrier film;
- sealing adhesive tape;
- mounting foam;
- penofol or other substrate.
Isolation occurs according to the following plan:
- a vapor barrier film with gluing of joints is laid on the logs, the overlap of the sheets should be about 200 mm;
- PPT is laid between the logs, and the gaps between them are filled with foam;
- a second layer of vapor barrier film is laid on top, the method of fixing is the same as for the walls - on adhesive tape, fixing with a stapler;
- a substrate is laid above to improve sound insulation.
Ceiling insulation
For these purposes, you will need the following materials:
- vapor barrier film;
- sealing adhesive tape;
- kapron thread;
- nails.
Work is carried out in the following order:
- the vapor barrier is fixed on the floor beams and attic flooring with self-adhesive tape and a stapler, like walls;
- at the bottom of the beams, nails are driven in at intervals of 20-30 cm, so that the hats protrude under the thread;
- the foam is inserted between the floor beams and fixed with a zigzag stretch of the nylon thread between the nails, with a snug fit of the plates, additional fixation can be omitted;
- the second layer of vapor barrier is fixed to the beams with a stapler.
Advantages and disadvantages
When using foam, it is worth considering the specifics of this material based on its strengths and weaknesses.
- Provides excellent thermal insulation - thermal conductivity is only 0.037-0.043 W / K * m. In winter, heat does not come out of such a house, and in summer it is cool, hot street air again lingers outside. Styrofoam creates the effect of a thermos and allows you to save on both heating and air conditioning.
- It has excellent moisture resistance and waterproofing, water absorption of a foam sheet for 28 days under water is about 3%, water vapor diffusion resistance - (p) for rigid foam plastics from 20 to 100 units.
- High level of noise absorption.
- Low price, one of the most affordable materials for thermal insulation.
Every day more and more people want to live in their own home. For this, plots outside the city are bought, and the construction of a small house begins. But building a house is, as a rule, a huge cash outlay, but not everything is so bad, today frame houses have become popular among private homeowners.
The cost of building such a building is much less compared to other structures. After all, at the heart of such a house is a frame, which is then sheathed and carried out. interior decoration. But the most important stage is the correct insulation of such a structure, and we will talk about this in our article.
The advantage of frame structures
Why are frame structures so popular today among private homeowners, and why is it much more profitable to build such a house than from stone or brick.
As for the structure itself, this is, first of all, the foundation on which it is then installed wooden frame. After this frame is sheathed inside with plywood or OSB boards are used.
Here are a number of advantages of frame buildings that are worth noting:
- The price, wood-based materials are significantly lower in cost than analogues from which houses are usually built. The finished frame cottage at a cost differs from the same one built of stone by almost two times, to a lesser extent.
- Construction speed. It usually takes builders two to three weeks to erect the skeleton of a building. After that, interior and exterior decoration begins.
- Body and comfort, thanks to the fact that the structure is insulated modern materials, in such cottages it is much cozier and more comfortable than in stone houses.
- Lightweight construction. A fully finished house by weight is much less than all the same stone buildings. Therefore, it exerts little pressure on the foundation. As a result, the owners of frame cottages are protected from subsidence of the base and, accordingly, from the appearance of splits or cracks in the building.
But after all, the question of how to properly insulate a frame house with foam remains still open, and now we will take a closer look at this not difficult process.
Frame cottage insulation technology
The construction of such a house, as well as the technology of insulation, is not complicated. When assembling the skeleton of the building, it is used in the installation wooden beam, he, in turn, is the walls of the whole house.
First of all, you should sheathe all the walls with thick plywood inside the house, and only then you can proceed to. With this approach, we have niches that are created thanks to the rack beam. It is in these niches that the insulation will go.
Finishing the house inside can also be called preparation for the insulation of the facade of the building, because it is simply impossible to carry out work without it. Sheathing the inner frame, we get turnkey solution for laying insulation.
Tip: it is also more expedient to insulate the loggia with the help of foam. The principle of laying is similar to the work on the insulation of the house.
Choosing a heater
Today on the market building materials There are two types of high-quality heat-insulating products. This:
- mineral plate;
- Styrofoam.
We have chosen foam plates for ourselves, and we will work with them.
Why not use , you ask? The answer is obvious, the mineral slab shrinks quite often. After a while, it can settle behind the walls, and areas are formed into which cold air will pass.
Therefore, in our case, we will choose a polystyrene foam plate, and answer the question of how to insulate a frame house with polystyrene foam. But we note right away that self-insulation requires additional construction equipment, this scaffolding. They can be rented or assembled from wood, which in principle is very laborious and time consuming.
We buy insulation: choose the size of the foam board
In order to qualitatively perform the insulation of your new home, we need to choose a foam of the appropriate thickness. It is on these parameters that the thermal insulation of the walls of the house depends.
The thermal insulation properties of the material depend on the thickness of the material.
It will be technologically correct to choose foam plastic with a thickness of one hundred and fifty millimeters or more. You also need to take into account the width of the frame beams, the polystyrene foam plate should not be wider than the frame racks.
Looking ahead, let's say if the plate protrudes, then exterior finish facade you will spend with great difficulty.
Tools needed for the job
Accordingly, without necessary tools, such work will be difficult to carry out. So it is better to prepare immediately and then start warming your home.
So, what should be from the material in stock.
- Scaffolding, they must be collected on the entire surface of the wall to be finished.
- Construction knife, hacksaw with fine teeth. For cutting boards.
- Construction mounting foam.
- Roulette, building level
Here are the main tools you will need. If you need something else in the process, then it will most likely not be significant trifles.
Advice! If you are going to carry out insulation work with your own hands, then we will disappoint you. For one person, this is quite laborious. Therefore, it is better to immediately start working with an assistant.
We carry out work: installation of polystyrene foam boards
So we have come to the most important stage of work, now it is necessary to install the insulation in its place and fix it there. As you can see the polystyrene boards, we will insert between the beams of the frame itself, strengthening it there.
So, let's proceed with the installation, and this instruction will help us with this:
- We measure the width between the beams and cut the slab to the size we need, in width.
- Insert the first sheet. He, like everyone else, should fit tightly between the beams and not have free play.
- The installation of the heater must be carried out from the bottom up. This is done so that if you have an undercut, you put it under the base of the roof.
- With a building level, check the vertical correspondence with respect to the plane.
- According to this principle, the entire quadrature of the surface is laid.
Important! After the installation is completed, there may be gaps between the installed sheets, all these are the results of not the ideal size of the foam sheets, and trimming. These gaps are best eliminated with the help of construction. She will additionally open all the sheets and remove cold bridges.
Exterior decoration of the facade of the building
We have practically received an answer to the question of how to insulate a frame house with polystyrene foam, the insulation boards are already in place and fulfill their immediate task. But to leave, as you know, the house in this form is impossible. Now is the time to start finishing the facade.
House with siding panels
For these purposes, siding is the best suited, and we recommend using metal panels, not vinyl. Why exactly you ask, as practice has shown, vinyl siding is not resistant to strong temperature changes.
Especially such panels are afraid severe frosts, after severe frosts, the panel loses its properties and may crumble. metal panels unaffected by temperature fluctuations.
Attention! Before installing the siding panels, it is recommended to close the insulation with a vapor barrier. This will protect the foam from moisture and create an additional heat-insulating barrier.
It is worth noting that in the case of finishing the facade of the building with siding panels, you will no longer need to mount the frame for them. The beams of the skeleton of the building will act as the profile for fastening the panels.
What other ways are there to finish the facade
Finishing the facade of a building with siding panels is, of course, not the only option for decorating a house. Knowing how to insulate a frame house with polystyrene foam, you also need to have an idea of what kind it will have. appearance.
This method is suitable for those who, for some reason, do not like finishing with siding panels. If this is the case, then you can use the block house finishing technology to decorate your building.
According to the principle of fastening, it is somewhat similar to the installation of siding panels, but the appearance is of course different. After the completion of the work, we get a house, the appearance of which is almost no different from a log building.
It is the block-house panels that give it such an extraordinary look. As a rule, the price of such a finishing material is slightly higher than that of siding, but the result is worth it.
Choosing this material, the facade cladding technology also changes slightly. In order to install the block-house panels, it is first necessary to sheathe the outer part of the building with OSB. Thus, hide the insulation under tight protection OSB boards and provide a foundation for attaching decorative panels.
Advice! If you veneer your facade in this way, after installing OSB plywood sheets, be sure to go over the entire plane and blow out all the cracks with mounting foam. Remove all potential cold air bridges before installing the cladding material.
Now that you have processed everything with high quality, you can proceed with the installation of facing panels. The principle of their installation is almost the same as when installing wooden lining. The panels are inserted into the grooves between themselves and then attached to the wall.
In practice, you already know how to insulate a frame house with polystyrene foam, now it remains to choose the technology and you can safely get down to business. By following these tips, you will definitely build a cozy and warm home.
Finally
We express confidence that the article will help you understand the principle of warming a frame house. And tips will help you avoid mistakes and unnecessary expenses. In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.
