Often for a motorist there is a problematic situation with the proper disposal of used engine oil, diesel fuel and other combustible elements from vehicle units and components. So why not use mining to heat your own garage, especially since you can get it for nothing, and environmental pollution is minimal. It remains only to make a stove that consumes this type of fuel with your own hands. Among car owners, this type of garage stove is quite well known and widely used.
Liquid fuel stoves
The use of such stoves is typical for garages, utility rooms, country houses and other premises, mostly of a technical and economic nature, which do not require any special cleanliness and aesthetics.
Advantages and disadvantages
In general, liquid fuel stoves perfectly fulfill their purpose, but like other types of stoves, they have their own characteristics, including advantages and disadvantages.
pros
- Simple and cheap design.
- Furnaces well warm up small rooms such as garages, utility rooms and small country houses.
- A stove made according to the rules does not smoke and almost does not burn.
- Compact and mobile due to the lack of installation work.
- Fireproof if the relevant safety regulations are followed. Oil is very difficult to ignite, only vapors ignite easily.
Minuses
- Used engine oil should only be used filtered, without foreign impurities, as an explosive situation may occur.
- The presence of the smell of oil.
- Characteristic hum of the oven.
Kinds
Fuel for furnaces that consume liquid fuel is diesel fuel or used motor oil. Furnaces using diesel fuel are produced mainly industrial way, although there are quite good home-made samples, while those working on mining are made handicraft in ordinary garage conditions. For self-production, a furnace using mining is best suited, due to the ease of manufacture of the structure and the low cost of materials, since pipe sections can act as materials for the furnace various diameters or sheets of metal in the case of rectangular tanks. It is also possible to use used propane cylinders.
Furnace design
The design consists of two tanks connected to each other by a perforated pipe. The upper tank has an offset relative to the vertical axis of the lower one. It is best to use the cylindrical shape of the tanks used, but in practice rectangular tanks are used very often and performance does not suffer from this at all. To give a working vertical position on the floor of the room, the structure provides legs. Schematic device of the furnace in the figure below:
The fuel combustion system in the stove works on the principle of pyrolysis - combustion of fuel vapors. Since the ignition point of engine oil is relatively high, its full combustion requires its heating with the formation of vapors, which are subsequently burned in a furnace. To achieve this result, filtered mining is poured into the lower tank through the filling hole, filling it halfway and ignited. To quickly ignite the oil, add a few grams of gasoline or thinner to the filling hole.
During the combustion of gasoline, the oil heats up and begins to evaporate from the surface, then the vapors ignite in the afterburner, and the temperature of the furnace switches to the operating mode of pyrolysis combustion. In the fuel tank, which simultaneously serves as a firebox, the oil is directly burned. The air necessary for primary combustion is drawn in through the filling port. An air damper is provided to regulate the combustion process. With a fully open damper, oil consumption will be about 2 liters. per hour, while in slow burning mode to maintain operating temperature about 0.5–0.7 l. at one o'clock.
A self-made furnace for mining is equipped with a vertical perforated pipe for air to enter, which is necessary for the pyrolysis combustion process. The oil vapor that enters the pipe, mixed with the incoming air, burns in it, and also partially in the upper tank. Further, the combustion products bypass the partition and are removed through the chimney from the room.
Drawing preparation and calculation of parameters
We will focus on the finished drawing of the furnace from pipe segments, since this material is the most accessible. The first step is to study the finished drawing and calculate the amount of material needed for the manufacture of an oil stove. If the exact diameters that are indicated in the drawing are not available, this is not critical, the main approximate ratio of sizes. I advise you to print the drawing so that it is always at hand in the process of assembling the furnace.
materials
The material for the cylinders in this example is an obsolete propane tank, but pieces of metal pipes of other diameters will fit perfectly.
- Sections of a propane cylinder (pipe) according to the drawing.
- Pipe for afterburner chamber. Dimensions on the drawing.
- Sheet steel.
- Tubes for legs with a diameter of 20 mm or a corner.
Instruments
To perform the work, you will need the following tools:
- Welding machine mask and electrodes, propane torch (if available).
- Bulgarian with cutting and cleaning wheels.
- Drill and drill with a diameter of 9 mm.
- Hammer, tape measure, pencil or marker.
- Protection for eyes and hands.
Choose an installation location
The installation site should be chosen based on the location of windows, doors and the stove should be located in the opposite corner from them. It is also worth paying attention to the convenience of bringing the chimney out. Together, these parameters for selecting a place for the furnace play leading role. On the walls, it is recommended to make reflectors from sheet metal or galvanized steel to improve heat transfer to the room and ensure fire safety. Do not forget about fire safety. When installing the stove in a room with a wooden floor, lay a sheet of tin on the installation site. For a concrete floor, it is also worth making such a litter, since when filling oil into a tank, there is a high probability of spilling it, and on concrete floor such traces can no longer be removed. In this case, a sheet of tin helps us out, because it will not be difficult to brush off the spilled mining with an unnecessary rag.
Making a furnace with waste oil with your own hands
Welding of elements among themselves should be done as follows - first we go through the entire length of the joint with spot tacks in increments of 3–4 cm, then we only weld the joint completely. Be sure to monitor the high-quality welding of the seam, otherwise the oil will seep even into a microscopic crack.
- We cut off pieces of pipes according to the dimensions from the drawing.
- With a cutter, we cut out circles from pieces of sheet metal according to the size of the drawing. In the absence of a propane torch, it is possible to burn through the metal with electrodes. And you can also do it with a grinder, but it's quite long and unsafe, so it's better to use one of the other two options.
- After cutting out the bottom for the oil tank, cut off the same pieces of tubes for the legs and weld to it, this will simplify the subsequent assembly of the furnace. On the base of the legs, you can weld square pieces of steel 5 * 5 cm for better stability.
- We weld a pipe section to the bottom to form a fuel tank. Cook first with tacks every 3-4 cm and then boil the joint completely.
- The next step is to weld a pyrolysis afterburner to the cover with pre-drilled holes in the body according to the diagram in the drawing.
- We weld the base and wall of the upper part of the furnace. Here we repeat the steps described in paragraph 4.
- The next step is the partition. In fact, this is just a strip of sheet steel 33 * 7 cm and 4 mm thick, but depending on your specific dimensions, its size may also vary. It is welded closer to the chimney of the stove.
The tank is made collapsible and consists of two parts for easy cleaning from carbon deposits. Next, we assemble the tank lid from a piece of pipe and a cut out circle of metal with two holes for a filling hole and an afterburner. The outer diameter of the pipe section for the lid should be slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the tank, thanks to which the lid will close it freely.
We weld the lid by placing it on top of the oven.
It remains to weld the pipe for the chimney outlet. A piece of pipe with a diameter of 10–12 cm and a length of 13 cm is perfect for its role. At the end of the whole structure, a steel bar must be welded between the upper and lower tanks, thus providing additional structural rigidity. After performing all welding work, the welds must be cleaned with a grinder with a cleaning disk, from burrs and sharp edges, so as not to get hurt during further operation of the furnace. The upper part can also be made collapsible by making it by analogy with an oil tank.
At the end of the assembly, it is imperative to check all welds for leaks using a soapy solution and supplying compressed air to the cavity of the stove.
By analogy, it is possible to make a furnace from sheet steel, with the only difference being that the number of parts and welding operations will slightly increase. Therefore, it does not make practical sense to describe it separately. Below is a drawing for a sheet steel furnace:
A good video on the manufacture and installation of a stove for working out of sheet metal
Features of the operation of the stove at work
Ignition of the furnace
Before igniting the furnace, it must first be filled with mining at least half a tank and topped up with a few grams of gasoline or solvent. Typically, heating to operating temperature takes no more than five minutes. On a piece of long wire, it is necessary to wind a piece of paper, making a kind of wick, set it on fire, and carefully ignite gasoline through the hole for refilling mining. Gasoline heats the oil to the vaporization temperature of combustible substances, where they ignite further. In a perforated pipe, stable combustion of oil vapor is formed. The intensity of combustion is regulated by covering or opening the filling hole, from where air is blown directly.
Video instruction for use
Security
No matter how reliable your stove may seem, you should not forget and always follow the basic fire safety rules:
- Do not leave a burning hearth unattended for a long time.
- Do not install the oven near flammable objects and materials.
- Do not place any objects closer than 0.5 meters from the oven.
- Check your chimney regularly for leaks.
- Use only pre-filtered waste as fuel without the slightest presence of water.
Cleaning and repair
In our case, only the lower tank will be subjected to regular cleaning, since unburned components and soot are deposited there. To clean the tank, it is enough to remove the upper part from it and access is open. The walls are best cleaned with a hard metal object like a spatula or a metal brush. After cleaning, the walls can be washed with a small amount of gasoline and then dried. We put the whole structure in its place and you can use the oven again.
Liquid fuel stove, in particular waste fuel engine oil, in manufacturing it is no more difficult than an ordinary wood-burning potbelly stove, and in some ways even simpler than it. Any person who has welding skills and worked with metal is able to assemble it in his garage, one might say, on his knee. In the cold season, such a stove will always be a lifesaver in the garage or in the country.
- the problem is not the most important. But many car owners who often spend time with their iron friend try to make this pastime comfortable. Therefore, they think about which unit to install so that it is warm and the operating costs are minimal. One of these options is one that runs on used oil. Fortunately, this type of fuel is one of the cheapest and most affordable. Therefore, in today's review we will figure out what the stove is made of for working out with our own hands. Drawings, videos and photos will help to analyze in detail the entire production process.
Waste is a technical oil that is used inside automobile engines, drained from them after the end of its service life. That is, it is a 100% petroleum product, to which various additives are added to increase the life of the parts of an automobile engine rubbing together.
Under the influence of high temperatures and air, technical oil loses its technical properties. Therefore, it is changed to a new one with a certain frequency. It is the drained oil that is called used or working off. All oils that are used in car engines of any brand are combustible substances. That is why they are often used as fuel.
But burning in a flame, mining leaves behind a fairly large amount of waste, some of which is toxic. To reduce the concentration of such substances, the craftsmen came up with waste oil stoves, which operate on the principle of heating used oil. It is in the process of heating to high temperatures that the oil begins to decompose into components, some of which are combustible mixtures. They burn in the fire, releasing huge thermal energy. Of course, the presence of oxygen in this process is essential.
The principle of operation of the stove at work
Mining is on fire, and it was determined that this heavy, contaminated oil would be bad. Therefore, it must be split. There are two ways: with the help of oxygen, that is, to carry out oxidation, or by heating. The first option is discarded immediately, because this is not an idea at the household level.
The process of splitting is called pyrolysis. The simplest method is to use the combustion of the fuel itself. It should be noted that pyrolysis is a self-regulating and self-sustaining process. But before it starts, it is necessary to heat the mining to a temperature of + 400 ° C so that it begins to emit combustible vapors. As soon as this happens, pyrolysis will begin to support and control itself. And this is very good.
Therefore, a heater that runs on waste oil is not complex structure. In any case, it is no more difficult than an ordinary pan. Because, in fact, this is a container in which fuel is heated. It is in it that the pyrolysis processes take place. Main design feature such a unit is a pipe with many through holes. It is through it that combustible vapors rise, and fresh air enters through the holes, enriching the vapors with oxygen. This mixture burns in the upper chamber, releasing thermal energy.
Disadvantages of the principle of burning waste oil to heat it
As practice shows, it is precisely such a furnace that is installed in garages during mining. But this design has serious drawbacks:
- This device operates with an open flame, which is unacceptable in rooms where petroleum products are stored.
- The metal surface of the stove heats up red hot. That is, such a unit is a high probability of burns and fires.
- If someone wants to get a high thermal output of the furnace, then this is not the option. Such heaters can produce heat no more than 15 kW.
- It will not be possible to stop the combustion of fuel in this design on its own. It should burn out completely.
- It is impossible to extinguish such a furnace with a powder fire extinguisher. Powder that falls on hot metal immediately explodes. Therefore, only carbon dioxide fire extinguishers.
Attention! You can not install a view between the chamber, where the combustible mixture burns, and the lower tank, where mining is heated. Waste oil vapors are dense, they have high pressure when heated. Therefore, the fuel will boil all the time, no matter how they try to stop this process. If you additionally close the throttle, then the explosion is an inevitable process.
Therefore, it is very important to understand that a do-it-yourself waste oil furnace is primarily a welded structure. No assembly fasteners.
How to avoid shortcomings
So, the most dangerous part of the stove is the reservoir in which mining is heated. That's why perfect option- get rid of him. This problem has long been solved at the level of industrial boilers operating on fuel oil. What are special burners used for? It is in them that several processes of fuel combustion are combined at once, namely: pyrolysis, combustion and afterburning.
When the task is to make a burner for testing with your own hands, drawings are not needed for many craftsmen. Because its design is not very complicated, although the manufacturing specifics are quite subtle. There are several designs of burners.
The simplest version of such a burner is a flame bowl. In fact, this is a plate heated to the maximum temperature, on the plane of which used oil drips. The fuel just flashes and immediately burns out. 100% effect. The main task is to heat the plate to the required temperature.
But, as practice shows, such burners still do not burn mining to the end. Therefore, the thicket is supplemented with a pipe with holes, where the residue of combustible vapors is mixed with oxygen. And all this is burned in the upper combustion chamber.
How to make a stove for working out with your own hands
As mentioned above, the main requirement for the device is the connection of parts and parts by welding. Therefore possession welding machine is a paramount necessity. And the better the skills, the more reliable the unit.
Furnace for working out from a gas cylinder: drawings and types of structures
There are a fairly large number of gas cylinder stove designs that run on waste oil. Consider the most popular models among garage owners.
The easiest option
This option is not only easy to manufacture, because the cylinder is a ready-made container that just needs to be modified, but with high reliability of welded joints. Where to start and what to do - the sequence of operations:
- It is necessary to open the valve and release the remaining gas from the cylinder. In the open state, it should stand for several days. It's best to flush the tank.
- The balloon is cut across in half of its length. You need the top.
- The valve is knocked off. You can do this with a sledgehammer if he suddenly does not unscrew.
- A pancake with a diameter equal to the diameter of the balloon is cut out of a metal sheet with a thickness of 3–4 mm.
- It is welded to the cut edge.
- A piece 60–100 cm long is cut out of a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.
- Holes with a diameter of 6-8 mm are drilled in order in it. There should be six holes along the perimeter, along - 8-10. That is, the number of holes is within 50 pieces.
- The pipe is welded to former place valve installation.
- Now, a little to the side on the cylinder cover, another hole is made with a diameter of 25–30 mm, to which a pipe of 32 mm and a length of 50 mm is welded. A shutter is installed on it. It is through it that the used oil will be poured into the furnace and the fuel will be ignited.
Attention! By opening and closing the damper, you can control the combustion process inside the fuel tank.
Such a small stove can not be equipped with an afterburner. It is enough to install a good inclined chimney.
Stove for working out from a gas cylinder with inflation
This is a more complex design in execution and manufacture, but more efficient than the previous one.
| A photo | Description of works |
 | Air is evacuated from the propane tank through an open valve. |
 | A hole is cut in the top cover at the location of the valve. This can be done simply by pre-drilling holes with a drill and a drill. A pipe will be welded to the hole. |
 | Marking is made for two openings in the cylinder one above the other. Rectangular holes are cut out on them. The cut pieces will be used as doors. |
 | To do this, ordinary loops are welded to them and the cylinder. |
 | It should look like this. |
 | A pancake with a diameter equal to the inner diameter of the cylinder is cut out of a metal sheet. It is done in the middle round hole for pipe 100 mm. The pancake is inserted between the installed doors, where it is welded. That is, it will perform the functions of a partition. |
 | A perforated fixture is made from a piece of pipe 100 mm. |
 | It is installed in the hole on the pancake so that the holes are inside the lower chamber. |
Then, an air duct must be brought to the pipe, it can still be the same pipe through which air will be forced into the combustion chamber with the help of a fan. The chimney is connected to the side of the cylinder or next to the duct. The photo below shows a drawing, which shows a schematic diagram of the operation of such a device.
Do-it-yourself drip-type stove
The principle of operation of dropper stoves has already been mentioned above. In them, the main structural element is a bowl, to which fuel will be supplied in the form of drops. Feed rate will depend on bowl diameter and oven temperature setting. There are several types of such units. Some of them are shown in the photo below.
Of these, the first two positions are furnaces that operate in standard mode. The last two work with inflation. In this case, the fuel supply can be made from the side, as shown in the first three diagrams, or from above through the air supply barrel.
The manufacture of such a unit is carried out in almost the same way as in the previous case. But there are also some differences:
- one door;
- fire bowl.
Other types of stoves in development
Certainly, gas cylinder- an ideal option for the manufacture of stoves-potbelly stoves in oil working out. But there are other materials, and not necessarily new ones, from which stoves are assembled. This can be a pipe with a wall thickness of at least 5 mm or sheet metal with a thickness of 4-5 mm. In addition, the masters offer various designs, which differ from each other in additional useful functions. Let's consider some of them.
Waste oil furnace with water circuit
This is a more complex design, but it has one very big advantage over other models. With its help, you can heat not only the garage room, but also the water tank. And you can use it as a heating, which heats the room large sizes. That is, the stove is connected through a heat exchanger, where piping with installation is made.
There are three design modifications:
- The heat exchanger, also known as the coil (in this case), is wound around the furnace with outside. Of the three options - it is easier to perform.
- A stove is assembled from a pipe, divided into two compartments: the lower one is a combustion chamber, the upper one is for water.
- This is a water jacketed unit. That is, a space filled with water is left between the equipment case and the combustion chamber.
Furnace for mining open and closed type
What is the difference between the two models. A home-made open-type mining furnace consists of two chambers connected to each other by a perforated pipe. The latter has open view, it is not protected by anything, and the air is taken directly through the holes into the afterburner. In this case, the pipe can be round or rectangular.
The design of the closed type is a full-fledged unit, hermetically sealed from all sides. An afterburner from the same perforated pipe is installed inside it. Only air is fed into it from above with the help of a fan. Basically, it's an oven. True, small devices are not equipped with fans. The natural laws of physics operate in them, when air with a lower temperature flows by gravity into an area where the temperature is much higher.
Heaters and risers
As for the development, such designs have been known for a long time. They are even produced in the factory. The essence of the equipment is that the combustible vapors heated and combusted in the afterburner enter the heat exchanger, which is blown by a fan. That is, it is a 100% heater with maximum heat transfer efficiency. To understand what we are talking about, we suggest watching the video below, which shows one of the models of this type.
What is an insert? This is still the same furnace that runs on waste oil, and which you can do with your own hands according to the drawings. But there is one point why this unit is called that. The thing is that the insertion at the practice is intended as an addition. It's like an additional insert with which you can refuse. You won't get enough of the last winter.
An afterburner in the form of a pipe with holes connects the tank with liquid fuel to the furnace wood stove. The photo below shows how both chambers are interconnected by a curved afterburner.
How to make a boiler for working out with your own hands: drawings and video instructions
All previous positions answered the question of how to make a furnace for mining. Consider how to make a boiler. Although there is little difference between them.
| A photo | Description of works |
 | This will require oxygen balloon which is cut in half. It is preferable to gas because it has a wall thickness of 10 mm. |
 | The boiler requires the lower part of the cylinder, where the oil will be poured. That is, it will burn at the bottom. |
 | The injector will be made of a 50x50 mm square tube with a wall thickness of 3 mm. |
 | It will be necessary to make several holes in the pipe and install it inside the oxygen cylinder. |
 | The end of the pipe will need to be cut off with a grinder at 45 °. |
 | The whole pipe must be welded to the perforated pipe at an angle of 90°. |
 | This is how it should be installed. |
 | A groove must be cut under the horizontal pipe in the cylinder. It is done so that the finished injector does not move relative to its place. |
 | Carved groove in the balloon. |
 | The injection pipe must now be welded to the cylinder. But if you have to do something with the boiler, for example, clean it from the inside, then the pipe will have to be cut off, and after cleaning or repair, weld it in place. Therefore, the injector can be made removable. A plate is welded to it, shaped like a curved cylinder. The fastening of the plate with the injector to the boiler will be carried out with two bolts through through holes. Bolt M6 or 8 will be installed with heads from the inside. |
 | The lid for the boiler is made of steel sheet with a thickness of 6-10 mm. Be sure to weld around the perimeter of the skirt, which provides a tight pressing. A hole is made in the lid, closed with a peephole. |
 | A pipe with a diameter of 114 mm is welded to the side of the boiler. This will be the chimney. |
 | A hose from a vacuum cleaner is connected to the horizontal part of the injection pipe, which in this case performs the function of inflation. |
Waste oil is poured from above. Ignition is carried out with kerosene or gasoline, also through the top. Watch the video of how this boiler was assembled.
How to properly operate furnaces in mining, how they should be serviced
Rules for the operation and maintenance of waste oil furnaces exist. And they must be followed:
- It is forbidden to fill the fuel tank with used oil more than 2/3 of its volume.
- For ignition, it is better to use paper or rags. It is better not to use flammable liquids.
- The operating mode of the unit must be set by a special damper located in the lower fuel tank.
- Other liquid substances cannot be used as fuel, because the design is intended only for burning oil.
- The optimal location of the stove is away from the walls, closer to the floor. It is better not to install it on high stands.
- Do not leave the device in operation unattended.
- The room in which such an oven will be installed must be equipped with a well-functioning.
- It is forbidden to store explosive and flammable substances near the device.
- Waste oil used as fuel must not contain water or antifreeze. They explode when exposed to extreme heat. Therefore, it is recommended to filter the oil before use.
- Do not add oil to the fuel tank until it has completely burned out. A new portion filled in will cool the mixture, which will stop burning.
- You can clean the oven with any accessible ways. The frequency is determined by the degree of contamination of the instrument.
At what price can you buy factory furnaces for testing
| Model | Characteristics | price, rub. |
|
| 35000 |
|
| 28000 |
|
| 67000 |
|
| 275000 |
Waste oil stoves have been used by home craftsmen for a long time. Their main advantage over other types is their high thermal output at minimum expenses cheap fuel. At the same time, even a small unit can heat a significant amount of space.
Among all the options developed and used to date individual heating One of the most interesting rooms is heating, based on the use of a special furnace that uses used oil as a working resource.
Such ovens are extremely simple design and are, at the same time, very efficient and productive units. You can cope with the manufacture of such a stove on your own saving significant.
If you wish, you can improve your heating unit by adding a cast-iron stove with a burner to its design, which will allow you to cook food, and the arrangement of the water circuit will make it possible to connect the stove to the heating system at home and start full-fledged water heating.
In furnaces of this kind, the combustion of fuel occurs twice, so it will be necessary to build two furnaces at once.
In one chamber, the mining is slowly burned with the formation of combustible vapors, which pass into the second compartment and mix with air there. In the second chamber, the air-gas mixture burns with the release of a large amount of heat.
A damper must be installed at the place of oil combustion, which allows you to regulate the amount of air supplied to the first compartment. To provide oxygen to the second compartment in the pipe, due to which the two furnaces are connected, a plurality of holes (usually about 50) with a diameter of 9-10 mm are created.
Furnace modifications
There are several modifications of furnaces in development. Three varieties are most common.
This model has the simplest design. If you have skills in owning a welding unit, you can handle the manufacture of such a furnace product with your own hands.
It is necessary to prepare a thick metal sheet (from 4-6 mm), pipes and other required elements. To further save time and effort, you can replace the metal with an old gas cylinder.
It is important to remove the remains of the old gas from the tank. Otherwise, an explosion may occur during cutting. To eliminate such a possibility, pump ordinary water into the cylinder and only then proceed to work.
Pressurized oven
The design of such a furnace includes a fan. It must be installed so that the largest part of the air flow falls on the second compartment of the homemade stove. This will ensure the most efficient combustion of fuel, and the resulting heat will be fairly quickly and evenly distributed throughout the heated room.
Drip Furnace
It is quite difficult to assemble such a stove on your own. Typically, industrial heating units are equipped with a mining drip feed mechanism.
Such models make it possible to significantly reduce fuel consumption. Furnaces of this type are compact, efficient, as safe as possible and relatively inexpensive.
Also, craftsmen build universal models, combining both the function of pressurization, and the mechanism of drip feed of mining. However, it is strongly not recommended to undertake the assembly of such a unit on your own without the appropriate skills.
The best option for self-production is an assembly made of sheets of metal or an empty gas cylinder. A large fire extinguisher will also work.
For the manufacture of a heating structure from sheet metal, you need to have more serious welding skills. In this case, you will have to weld two fuel chambers yourself, weld stable legs to the lower housing, then connect both housings using a pipe with pre-prepared holes, then install a chimney pipe and perform other related activities.
You can go a much simpler way by using an empty gas cylinder or a large fire extinguisher to make a mining heating unit. Such containers have rather thick and reliable walls, which ensure high fireproof properties. finished construction and long service life.
Regardless of whether you will use to assemble the furnace sheet metal or a cylinder, when constructing a heating unit, you must strictly adhere to the following important rules:
- the air supply to the stove must be adjustable. This rule can be enforced using an ordinary damper. You will change the size of the gap, thereby adjusting the intensity of traction;
- the waste oil combustion chamber must be collapsible. This will make maintenance and cleaning much easier;
- The flue pipe must be installed in a strictly vertical position. The use of inclined and horizontal segments in the case of such a stove is prohibited;
- to ensure the required level of draft, the chimney must be made from 400 cm long.
Stove Making Guide
Your attention is invited to the easiest option for manufacturing a unit that runs on waste oil from an empty cylinder.
First step. Cut off the top and bottom of the balloon.
Second step. Make a drum for burning used oil from the resulting halves.
Third step. Weld stable and preferably adjustable metal legs to the bottom of the structure.
Fourth step. Make a hole in the top wall of the first compartment to connect a piece of metal pipe. Equip the pipe itself with an adjusting damper. Oxygen will flow through the hole into the fuel chamber. Also through it you will add working off.
Fifth step. Make an additional hole approximately in the center of the chamber and weld a part of a metal pipe to it to connect the two main elements of the stove. You must first make holes in this tube. Recommendations regarding the size of the holes and their number were given earlier.
Sixth step. Make a second stove chamber from the rest of the old cylinder and a metal sheet. Weld the finished chamber to the connecting tube with holes.
Make and install a chimney.
The instructions did not provide any recommendations regarding the size of the heating unit. There is no special need to specify these parameters, since the work of a structure of any size, and, consequently, the intensity of heating, can be easily adjusted.
If you wish, you can make a stove from sheet metal to work out any required size.
The furnace considered is the most simple option from all existing ones. Such a unit is perfect for heating a garage, greenhouse, change house and a small living space.
To increase the efficiency of the unit, you can equip it with a pressurization system, and if you have the necessary skills, with a mining drip feed mechanism.
Although the design of the considered furnace is not particularly complicated, when using the finished unit, it is still necessary to adhere to the following important rules and recommendations:
The average user may have some difficulty in extracting the required amount of used oil. It is recommended to prepare a suitable container in advance for assembling and storing mining. Procurement of fuel is best done gradually throughout the year.
Try to negotiate with the service station staff. Employees of such enterprises almost always agree to give away used oil for a nominal fee or completely free of charge.
By following the instructions and recommendations given earlier, you will assemble a reliable, safe and efficient waste oil stove. To do this, you do not need to buy expensive materials and use difficult-to-handle devices, because the oven is easily assembled from the simplest elements.
Successful work!
Video - Do-it-yourself furnaces for working out
A do-it-yourself stove for working out is a completely feasible way to equip an effective heating system in different kind non-residential premises (for example, in a garage, greenhouse). Today we will tell you how to make such an oven at home, get acquainted with some options and, according to tradition, give detailed step-by-step instructions.
Features of heating structures in the "working out"
The devices that are described in this article are often popularly referred to as miracle stoves, because they use used oils (motor, transmission) that cost very little. Due to this, the operation of this kind of furnace is cheap. Another miracle stove that interests us will not function on gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene and other flammable mixtures.
Devices on the "working out" heat the premises by directly heating the air that is in them. From a constructive point of view, such a unit is two combustion compartments. In compartment No1, the used oil is burned, as a result of which combustible vapors are formed. After that, the vapors are fed into compartment No2, where they are mixed with air and, having enough high temperature, quickly burn out, due to which large volumes of thermal energy are released.
Note! The design described above will work correctly only when air is permanently supplied to both compartments of the unit. Moreover, compartment No1 must be equipped with a special damper designed to adjust the volume of air entering the chamber.
In most cases, both compartments will be connected to each other with a pipe. It is important that holes with a diameter of about 10 millimeters are drilled in the latter - through them air will flow into compartment No2 for mixing with combustible vapors.
Below are the main advantages of the units in the "working out".
- They are safe enough, since in this case the oil vapor is burned, and not the used oil itself.
- It is quite possible to make such an oven with your own hands, using cheap and affordable materials for this.
- Finally, such devices are easy to install and use, which is good news.
But there are some downsides that everyone who plans should be aware of. independent production wonder ovens.
- Used oil must be stored exclusively warm room. At sub-zero temperatures, it simply freezes and loses all its properties.
- In addition, this oil must be specially filtered. It is forbidden to use simple contaminated "working off" from car services. Cleaning contaminated oil at home is almost impossible.
On a note! Even with the help of such units it is impossible to heat living rooms. Yes, this is an ideal option for a garage, but it is not suitable for a room in which people are all the time.
Video - How to work with the furnace on "working out"
Main types
Basically, House master can make a similar design from:
- from metal sheets or a gas cylinder;
- design in which oil flows drop by drop;
- blower assisted unit.
The simplest option is to use a gas cylinder (we will consider this design in more detail a little later), thick steel sheets or large metal pipes. It is more difficult to build a furnace that provides for additional air pressurization - here, among other things, it will be necessary to install a fan in order to supply air to compartment No2, in which combustion of fuel vapors occurs.
Thanks to the fan, the fuel mixture will burn more efficiently, and the generated heat will spread evenly and quickly throughout the heated room. Similar designs are suitable for garages that need to be heated as quickly as possible.
A drip fuel unit is extremely difficult to make with your own hands. This requires drawings made professionally (they can be found in the relevant literature or on the Web), as well as appropriate knowledge in the field of waste oil heating equipment. But if everything is done correctly, then it will be possible to acquire a small, economical and truly functional device with which you can heat a greenhouse, garage, and so on.
Video - Scheme of the furnace for working out
Units made of steel sheets are quite popular among the owners of garages and workshops. Such an oven will not only heat the room - you can even cook food with it! What is characteristic, the dimensions of the design are quite compact.
The algorithm of actions in the manufacture of a furnace from steel sheets is as follows.
Step 1. To get started, you must find a suitable drawing of the furnace in the "working out".
Step 2 After that, make the bottom of the firebox and the bottom of the body, using sheets of 6 mm thickness for this. For the manufacture of the tank itself, use steel 4 mm thick. All these blanks are quite easy to do if you arm yourself with a grinder.
Step 3 Take a sheet with a thickness of 4 millimeters, cut a strip from it, the width of which is 11.5 centimeters, fold it into a ring with a diameter of about 34 centimeters (it is convenient to use a bending machine for this), and then weld the strip to it. The result is a spent fuel tank pipe.
Step 4 Using the same sheet, cut out a 34 cm circle that will serve as a lid for the tank made in the previous step. Weld iron corners to the lid on 4 sides.
Step 5 Now take a sheet 6 mm thick, cut a strip of 6 cm wide from it, and then a second circle. The diameter of this circle, as well as the ring, should be slightly more than 35 centimeters.
Step 6 Cut a 10 cm hole in the center of the circle for the chimney, and next to it - another 5.5 cm hole. Fuel will be supplied through the second hole. At the end, weld the ring and circle into a single structure to get a tank for filling used oil.
After that, you can proceed to the manufacture of the lower part of the tank. Take a sheet with a thickness of 6 millimeters, cut a circle out of it and, stepping back from the edge of 2 centimeters, make a hole in it (circle) for the chimney pipe. To make the pipe itself, cut a 13-centimeter piece of pipe with a cross section of 10 centimeters. The next step is to create a partition, for which the same 6 mm steel will be used. Cut out a rectangle 7x33 centimeters from it, and place the finished partition into a circle with a diameter of 35 centimeters and weld it securely. Now you can install the pipe itself.
We continue to make a furnace with used oil with our own hands. Take the first pipe, make 48 holes of 0.9 centimeters each in its lower part (eight per circle, the total number of circles is six, and the distance between them is six centimeters). Now this pipe after processing can be installed in the cover of the fuel tank. It is important that in the end the pipe is absolutely level. If you notice deviations, process the pipe with a file or grinder.
On a note! No need to weld the cover and pipe together! But it is necessary that the second one enters the first as evenly as possible.
The next steps are not difficult.
- Two parts of the container are connected, and they also do not need to be welded. O-rings are used to ensure a tight connection.
- To the pipe, on which there are 48 holes, it is necessary to weld a container for pouring fuel, while on the other hand - a pair of parts connected by rings.
- Then a peephole (a special round plate) is placed on the oil supply hole, which can be easily opened and closed.
At the very end, you need to install a chimney. It must be at least 4 meters long. It is important that it is located vertically on the outside (there should be no deviations - use the building level). But in the room itself, a slight slope of the chimney pipe is allowed.
Video - Furnace for "working out" with an oil pump
How to use a homemade unit?
The unit described above must not be located near mixtures or objects that can easily ignite, or in a draft. It is also important that the chimney of the furnace is completely sealed, and there is at least 50 centimeters of free space around on each side. Be sure to ensure that water does not get into the fuel used, otherwise it will splash out of the holes in the pipe.
"Working out" will heat up very quickly. Fill the container to two-thirds of the height, then, adding 25 grams of gasoline or solvent, ignite the resulting mixture through the fuel filling hole. For ignition, it is preferable to use a burning wick screwed to a piece of wire.
Note! Regularly check how the unit works. Use the plate to adjust the burning intensity. Never leave a running oven unattended!
Master Class. Furnace on "workout" with a closed burner and a flame from a gas cylinder
Let's start with some important points. The principle by which the do-it-yourself waste oil furnace described below operates is extremely simple. After ignition, the oil begins to burn on the body and heat the unit. At the same time, vapors are discharged through the chimney due to draft.
Approximately the principle of operation of the design is shown in the image below.
Stage one. We prepare everything you need
For work you will need:
- 50 liter gas cylinder;
- loops;
- steel pipe (length - 200 centimeters, diameter - 10 centimeters);
- half-inch valve;
- 5 cm steel corner (it will take a little more than a meter);
- a piece of pipe half an inch;
- steel sheet 4 mm thick (about 50 square centimeters);
- two clamps;
- brake car disc, which freely enters the cylinder;
- a piece of hose;
- Freon tank for fuel tank.
After preparing everything you need, you can proceed to the next steps.
Stage two. Making the body
Next, you need to fill the balloon with water and drain it to get rid of the remaining gas. This should be done with the utmost care. After that, it is necessary to cut out two openings: in the lower one there will be a burner with a pallet, while in the upper one there will be a heat exchanger and a combustion chamber. By the way, if you make the chamber at the top large, then it will be possible to use pellets, firewood, etc. as fuel.
After all this, the cylinder must be rinsed again from gas condensate.
Stage three. We make a burner, the bottom of the firebox
To make the bottom for the upper compartment of the structure, you need to take a steel sheet 4 mm thick.
As for the size of the burner, in this case, 20 centimeters is quite enough.
Lots of holes should be made around the circumference so that air can freely flow to the oil. After preparing all holes inner part burners need to be sanded. This must be done without fail! The burner must be welded into the bottom of the upper chamber, and then installed in the right place. It will be quite possible to lay a tree on such a shelf (for example, if it is not possible to purchase used oil).
Stage four. Making a used oil pan
For manufacturing, you need to use a cast-iron brake disc. This metal is quite resistant to elevated temperatures, and therefore in this example it is he who is used.
In the lower part, it is necessary to weld the bottom.
A lid is welded on the top. Here you can see the opening through which air will be supplied. It is better that this opening is wide, otherwise the thrust will be weak, and the oil, as a result, will not fall on the sump. After that, it is necessary to make a coupling to connect the burner and the pan. Thanks to this, the maintenance of the unit will be noticeably simplified.
For the manufacture of the coupling, a pipe with a diameter of 10 centimeters is used - you just need to cut it along the longitudinal edge. You can not weld the opening in the coupling, since this is not necessary.
Stage five. We take care of the supply of used oil
After that, you can start working on the fuel supply system. A piece of pipe must be welded to the pallet using a previously made hole. It is important that the pipe is cut in advance.
The tube must be led to the tank, and then - put the valve.
Stage six. We equip the chimney
For the manufacture of the chimney, a 10-centimeter pipe is used. It simply needs to be welded to the hole in the center of the top of the housing. You can bring the chimney out through the wall, as in our example. For fire safety purposes, it is recommended to attach a piece of metal sheet to the wall. It is also advisable to use a special refractory glass to bring the pipe through the wall.
Stage seven. We assemble the heat exchanger
We continue to manufacture the furnace in development. Here we note that if there are water batteries in the room, an air heat exchanger is not required - it is enough to let several water “coils” through the upper chamber by making a parallel connection. This will additionally require the installation of a fan and a circulation pump.
Now about the heat exchanger. It is installed between the burner and the chimney, since it is in this place that the most heat is generated. An iron plate must be welded to the exchanger to better hold the flame. In addition, the plate will distribute the fire inside the body of the unit. An air swirler is installed in the heat exchanger itself, which you can see from the illustrations below.
After that, you need to install a duct fan on one side of the heat exchanger. By the way, you can additionally connect a thermal relay to it in order to save resources and set the temperature yourself.
Thermal energy will be concentrated in the firebox compartment.
Stage eight. Making a fuel tank
To create it, as noted earlier, a freon cylinder is used. It is not difficult to get it, so we will not dwell on it. It is only important that the needle valve in it be in good condition (it is necessary for accurate control of the volume of incoming oil).
The tank must be connected to the unit with a hose. The latter, in turn, is connected to the valve. The container itself must be fixed in an upside down position.
Note! It is necessary to cut a hole in the tank through which used oil will be poured in the future.
Stage nine. We equip the doors
The unit is almost ready, there are only a few moments left. An opening is cut in the door of the lower chamber, through which air will be freely supplied to the burner and pan.
As for the opening in the upper door, it must be equipped with thrust plates in order to ensure maximum tightness.
It is also important that the top door closes as securely as possible, for which you can assemble such a simple lock.
They are screwed to the wall with a few pieces of iron corner. The unit is installed on top, which is both convenient and useful.
Rules for igniting and stopping the furnace - what you need to know?
It is not difficult to kindle such an oven. First, a little oil is poured into the pan (to cover the bottom), then a piece of foam rubber is taken, thoroughly moistened with solvent or gasoline and placed in the pan so that the lower part is immersed in fuel.
The foam is set on fire. It burns well, and therefore the pan quickly warms up to the required temperature. The valve of the oil reservoir is carefully opened - it should flow out in a very thin stream. The feed should be adjusted smoothly and carefully. Soon the unit will start to work normally, but do not forget to check from time to time how much oil is in the sump.
To stop the unit, you just need to close the valve on the tank, and then, when the fuel stops flowing out, the emergency valve. After three to five minutes, the operation of the furnace will end, and the body will gradually cool down.
Rules for cleaning the heater
During operation, carbon deposits will inevitably accumulate in the pan, chimney and burner. Obviously, you can start cleaning the oven only when it has completely cooled down.
The algorithm of actions in this case should be approximately the following.
- You need to take a few handfuls of fine gravel or sifted sand and throw it in turn into the chimney outlet from the outside.
- Through the upper chamber, crushed stone / sand is removed from the pipe along with soot.
- The cinder is brushed with a bar into the pan from the walls of the burner.
- At the end, the pallet itself is removed, the waste is thrown out.
We hope that the article turned out to be useful for you, and you will be able to build a waste oil furnace with your own hands without any problems. Good luck with your work and warm winters!
Video - Heating a garage with a furnace at work
An oil stove is a real find for summer residents, owners of garages and other similar objects. After successful self-assembly of the unit in question, you will have at your disposal an economical and efficient heater that can not only heat the room, but also solve the problem of hazardous waste disposal.
Additionally, the top cover of such a stove can be equipped with a tank for heating water, which will make the operation of the unit even more convenient. In assembly oil oven there is nothing complicated with your own hands, however, such equipment requires its owner to comply with a number of rules and requirements, ignoring which can lead to dangerous situations.
Homemade oil stoves have many advantages, namely:
- environmental friendliness. During the operation of such a stove, smoke with harmful inclusions is not formed, which allows the unit to be used in almost any room without any inconvenience to others;
- fuel availability. You can negotiate with almost any service station and pick up the work at own expense. Some companies even specialize in the delivery of such fuel, so you will not have any problems with heating. At the same time, this oil is much cheaper than most others. existing species fuel;
- high heat dissipation. A standard stove gives out about as much heat as an electric heater with a power of 15-20 kW can produce;
- ease of assembly and operation;
- lack of droppers, nozzles and other similar structural elements. Thanks to this, the assembly process of the unit in question is greatly simplified.
The intensity of the furnace is regulated using only one cover for fuel. standard model the oil heating unit is heated to 900 degrees or more. This indicator is more than enough for heating small rooms and medium-sized rooms.
In order for the stove to be completely safe and not interfere with others, it must be equipped with a sufficiently long chimney (about 500 cm). It is important that the chimney is installed exclusively vertically, without horizontal sections.
Periodically, the combustion chamber of an oil furnace must be cleaned of burning and soot. These moments are provided for at the stage of assembly of the structure. The unit must be folded so that it can be quickly and without extra effort disassemble for cleaning.
The chimney should also be removable - so it will be easier for you to clean the pipe. It will be enough to disconnect the chimney from the stove, place some container under the pipe, for example, a bucket, and clean the structure of dirt by tapping on its body.
The oil oven gets dirty much less intensively in comparison with other widespread and aggregates.
The installations under consideration are characterized by high safety. The oil used to operate the furnace is not prone to self-ignition and explosions, compared to the same gas. At the same time, the furnace is designed in such a way that oil burning occurs exclusively inside the unit body. Outside, the fuel simply cannot escape.
The oil oven is very efficient and cost effective. The loaded oil burns out completely, even the smoke burns out at the end, which allows for the most rational fuel consumption.
You can use sheet metal to assemble the case and metal pipes. Prepare your supplies beforehand.
Oil Furnace Assembly Kit
- Bulgarian.
- Apparatus for welding and electrodes.
- Sheet metal.
- Pipe cuts.
- Steel corner. From it you will make legs for your homemade oil stove.
- Heat-resistant paint for metal.
Start assembling the stove.
First step. Make the lower chamber of the unit. In the design under consideration, the lower part simultaneously performs the functions of a fuel tank and a firebox. This part of the stove looks like a round tank with a metal lid. In the lid, prepare a hole for the pipe, which will serve as the second chamber, as well as holes for pouring liquid fuel.
Cut out the details of the lower chamber in accordance with the previously prepared drawing. You can make it yourself or use a ready-made version. The edges of the cuts must be cleaned with a grinder and welded into a single structure. For the manufacture of walls, it is most convenient to use a pipe cut.
Second phase. Weld the bottom of the metal sheet to the walls of the lower chamber. Weld the legs to the bottom.
Third stage. Make a metal cover with holes. There will be 2 in total: one in the center with a diameter of 10 cm and the second closer to the edge with a diameter of 6 cm. It is recommended to make the lid removable - this will make it easier for you to clean the tank in the future.
Fourth stage. Prepare a pipe with a length of about 36 cm and a diameter of 10 cm. Drill holes for air intake evenly along the height and circumference of the pipe. The diameter of the holes should be about 9-10 mm.
Fifth stage. Weld the pipe with the cover of the lower compartment of the stove at a right angle. Attach the air damper to the 6 cm hole in the cover. It can be fixed with a bolt or rivet.
Sixth stage. Make the top tank in the same way as the bottom one. The walls of the tank are best made from a pipe.
Seventh stage. Make a hole with a diameter of 10 cm in the bottom of the upper tank. The hole should be moved closer to any edge of the bottom. Weld a short piece of pipe with a diameter of 11 cm to the finished hole. Using this piece of pipe, you can put the second part of the stove body on the combustion chamber.
Eighth stage. Make a cover for the top compartment. For this, it is best to use metal with a thickness of 6 mm. Prepare a hole in the lid for installing the flue pipe. This hole should be opposite the hole you created earlier in the bottom of the chamber. Weld a metal baffle cutter to the top cover. The baffle is installed closer to the smoke outlet.
Ninth stage. Weld the smoke outlet pipe to the corresponding hole. For extra strength, weld a spacer between the two chambers of the stove. For the manufacture of spacers, you can use a steel pipe with a diameter of 2-3 cm or a steel corner.
Tenth stage. Paint the stove with heat-resistant paint of the desired color.
Oil oven - simplified version
Installation and ignition rules for a homemade stove
The oil stove must be installed on the foundation. Bricks or concrete can be used for the foundation. It is not necessary to deepen the foundation.
Install the stove at a distance of at least 90-100 cm from flammable and melting objects. Align the installed unit vertically and horizontally.
Orient the oven in space so that in the future it will be convenient for you to pour oil into the corresponding hole and regulate the air supply inside the unit.
The chimney, as noted, should have a length of about 5 m. because of them, traction will be significantly reduced. Insulate the upper part of the chimney to prevent condensation from settling on the pipe walls.
Any synthetic or mineral waste oil is suitable for the furnace of such a furnace. When loading oil, make sure that its level does not exceed the middle of the compartment in height. It is important to leave room for the creation of oil fumes.
After pouring fuel, hold the damper in the open position for a short time so that the exhaust vapors have time to saturate with air. To ignite the stove, it is most convenient to use special matches for fireplaces. Drop a lit match through the fuel fill hole. After lighting the stove, cover the hole about halfway. Wait for the oven to heat up, and then adjust the air supply to the unit according to the situation, according to the required heating intensity.
It is forbidden to pour kerosene, solvents, gasoline and other similar liquids into the stove. Such treatment in most cases leads to an explosion.
How to increase the efficiency of a homemade stove?
The considered stove can be successfully used for heating garages, greenhouses and other similar objects. However, such a unit is not suitable for residential premises - a hot metal surface will “burn out” the air, and this is extremely unsafe for human health. Therefore, if you want to equip a heating system based on just such a furnace, the unit itself should be installed in some separate room, and the heating should be organized directly using a traditional water system.
To equip the mentioned heating, you need to pass the chimney pipe through the water tank immediately after the exit point of the chimney from the top of the stove. Connect the inlet and outlet fittings to the tank. Fittings place at different heights. Connect the water supply pipe to the upper fitting, and the liquid discharge to the lower fitting. Equip the heating directly, taking into account the area and other features of the heated building.
Also, to increase the efficiency of the oil furnace unit, it is possible to equip an artificial air convection system. At the heart of such a system is a fan. With its help, cold air will be supplied to the upper compartment of the chimney. This air will be heated by the heat of the stove and additionally heat the room and at the same time cool the stove chamber, helping to increase the service life of the metal walls.
Thus, there is nothing difficult in self-assembly of an oil furnace. By sequentially manufacturing the necessary elements and combining them into one design, you will get a reliable, cost-effective and productive heating unit.
Successful work!
Video - DIY oil oven
