Insulate a wooden house from the outside with your own hands. Insulation of the facade of the house from the outside Insulation of the walls in a wooden house from the outside














The new SNiP on thermal protection introduced in 2003 imposes stringent requirements on thermal insulation wooden walls. If earlier a house made of timber 200 mm thick or rounded logs with a diameter of 280 mm "fit" into the standards, now they no longer meet the new standard. Of course, the owners of existing buildings may not do anything, but keep in mind that investing in the insulation of a wooden house is cheap compared to several years' bills for heating and air conditioning. Consider how and what to insulate the outside wooden house so that it is of high quality, and the house does not lose its environmental properties.

Insulation of wooden walls

Warming methods

According to the current regulations, there are three types of external wall structures according to the number of layers.

Single layer. Bearing and thermal insulation properties are combined at the level of the building material of the building envelope. For stone houses one can give an example of a porous large-format ceramic block or foam concrete block. For frame wooden houses - these are SIP panels.

With a thickness of expanded polystyrene in SIP panels from 20 cm, the house will be warm in any frost

As a reference! The new standards are so strict that even these walls may need to be insulated if the base material is not thick enough.

Three-layer. Walls in which the outer layer relative to the insulation is structural materials with a thickness of at least 50 mm, fixed to the base by point connections. A classic example is an insulated house lined with bricks. You can find such examples of designs of enclosing walls for wooden houses. And in this case, we are talking about brick cladding, since cladding with imitation timber or a block house, by definition, is not suitable due to the thickness of the outer layer.

Double-layer with external thermal insulation. This is the most common way to insulate a wooden house. Moreover, such a design can be without an air gap or with a ventilated air gap.

Classic mineral wool insulation scheme with wood siding cladding

We can talk about four options for how to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside:

    "wet facade";

    hinged facade;

    sprayed thermal insulation

    brick cladding.

The regulations indicate another type of construction - with a non-ventilated air gap. But such insulation of a wooden house is not recommended due to the characteristics of the material itself.

Features of wood as a wall material

Regardless of the structural materials of the walls, when insulating a building, it is important to follow the following rules formulated at the SNiP level:

    thermal insulation must be reliably protected from the penetration of moisture into it;

    access of water vapor to thermal insulation should be as limited as possible;

    the arrangement of the layers should ensure the drying of the structure and prevent the accumulation of moisture in it.

The first rule is technically easy to follow. The exterior finish protects against contact with atmospheric moisture, the properties of which can be enhanced with a waterproofing membrane.

Video description

Another option to protect the tree from moisture in the video:

Protection against water vapor penetrating from inside the house is provided by appropriate vapor-tight membranes, which do not prevent the wooden walls from “breathing”, but retain larger water molecules that are in the warm air of the heated room. And here there is some contradiction with the requirement for the arrangement of layers, which should ensure the weathering of water vapor from the structure.

Tree unusual construction material- It easily absorbs atmospheric moisture and just as easily gives it away. But if a vapor-tight membrane is fixed outside the wall, then the natural moisture transfer will be disturbed, and this is bad for wooden structures that, when wet, begin to rot. Therefore, many experts advise for wooden walls not to use films (only membranes) as waterproofing from the outside, but to abandon vapor-tight membranes altogether so as not to interfere with water vapor venting out of the wall and insulation in both directions.

Note! If you look at the websites of the leading manufacturers of ready-made systems for plaster and hinged facades (Knauf, Ceresit, Scanroc), then none of them in the structure of the "pie" has a vapor-tight membrane to protect the insulation.

Factory facade systems do not provide a vapor-tight membrane between the wall and the insulation

And the same requirements for the drying of the structure impose restrictions on the choice of insulation.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies, which offer the service of warming houses. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

The choice of insulation for the walls of a wooden house

There is no direct prohibition on the use of polystyrene in any regulatory document. Moreover, expanded polystyrene is indicated as a heater for a wooden house in all acceptable types of structures. But its vapor permeability is much less than that of wood across the fibers (not to mention the direction along the fibers). And if it is used as thermal insulation, it will completely block the weathering of water vapor from the wooden wall to the outside.

Video description

We will dwell in more detail on the insulation of the house with foam plastic. Find out how safe polystyrene foam is in our video:

Penoplex, also known as extruded polystyrene foam, differs from the usual one only in production technology, and its vapor permeability is just as low. Therefore, this popular thermal insulation material « wet facade» not suitable for two-layer insulation of wooden walls.

The same arguments "work" against the use of spray foam. And if during the installation of expanded polystyrene there are some seams and cracks, then the seamless "shell" of vapor-tight thermal insulation will completely eliminate the possibility of excess moisture venting outward.

This method of insulation eliminates the possibility of natural ventilation of wooden walls.

Mineral wool best meets the conditions of "drying the structure." If we talk about fire safety, then in this parameter it is most suitable for warming a wooden house. And of the three types of mineral wool, stone wool is usually used. It is more difficult to work with glass wool - when fitting and assembling, small crumbs form from the fragments of fiberglass, which is dangerous for the skin and respiratory tract. And slag wool is not recommended for warming residential buildings due to low environmental qualities.

Sprayed thermal insulation is eco-wool with a “wet” technology for applying to walls.

This is what eco-wool insulation technology looks like (wet method)

Preparatory stage

Before insulating a wooden house from the outside, the facade must be prepared.

There is a standard set of measures for any type of building, which is to free the surface from hanging elements. And there are works that are typical for a wooden house - checking the condition of interventional heaters, caulking (if necessary) and treating with an antiseptic.

Insulation of a wooden house does not exclude the need for caulking interventional joints

Preparatory work must be carried out in dry weather. This is especially important for impregnating the top layer of wood with an antiseptic. The treatment process itself consists in applying the solution according to the “staining” method, and if the capillaries of the upper layer contain water, then the antiseptic will not be absorbed into the tree properly.

Antiseptic treatment is a mandatory step before insulation and sheathing facade panels wooden walls

Features of the "wet facade"

When fastening mineral wool to a wall in the "wet facade" system, an adhesive solution and mechanical fasteners are used. And the glue plays leading role, since the number of metal heat-conducting inclusions in the thermal insulation should be limited. And to slabs of hard mats stone wool could be securely fixed, the wall should be fairly even or have slight differences in "relief" in height, which can be corrected with a layer of adhesive. This condition is met only at home from a bar.

The surface of the log walls must be leveled. This can be done with OSB, moisture resistant plywood or drywall for exterior finish(Recently, Knauf presented this type of GKL). But plywood and OSB do not meet the requirements for the vapor permeability of the front finish of a wooden house, and in any case, crate is needed for leveling. And the use of crates and additional materials crosses out the advantage of a "wet facade" over a ventilated one - a relatively low cost.

Use a "wet facade" for additional insulation frame houses. And if one of the types of polymeric materials was used as an internal insulation of the thin-sheet structure of the enclosing surfaces, then foam plastic can be used for external insulation - it will not worsen the vapor permeability of the walls.

insulate frame house maybe with styrofoam

There are also peculiarities in the methods of attaching insulation to wooden walls, when self-tapping screws are used instead of dowels, and the adhesive solution is highly elastic.

Otherwise, the insulation technology has a standard sequence of work:

    Along the perimeter of the basement (grillage), a starting bar is attached.

    Mount the bottom row of stone wool mats. Use glue and at least 5 pcs. self-tapping screws per 1 m².

    When installing the following rows, the vertical seams are shifted by at least 20 cm.

    Openings of windows and doors in the corners should not have intersecting seams of insulation sheets.

    The surface is reinforced with fiberglass mesh, and the corners are reinforced with a perforated corner. To fix the reinforcing elements, an adhesive solution is used.

    A layer of mortar is again applied on top of the mesh (the total thickness should be about 6 cm), the surface is leveled, and after drying, it is polished.

    Plastering and painting the façade.

Video description

Clearly about the wet facade in the video:

How to insulate a wooden house with foam plastic

If you wish, you can find examples of using foam to insulate a wooden house from the outside. Moreover, there is a technology that does not impair the "breathing" properties of the walls and the level of comfort, which is ensured by natural gas exchange between the premises and the street. This is achieved by creating a ventilated gap between the insulation and the wall. Moreover, in this case it does not matter what the walls are made of - from a bar or a log.

In order not to worsen the "breathing" properties of a wooden house, a ventilated gap must be created between the foam and the wall

Video description

In our video, we will look at how polystyrene is produced, is polystyrene harmful and where is it used?

The cross section looks like this:

    main wall;

    lathing from a bar with a height of at least 60 mm ( minimum size for a ventilated gap);

    fixing the insulation to the crate (expanded polystyrene, EPS);

    finishing with facade panels or a layer of plaster reinforced with fiberglass mesh.

But once again it must be emphasized that this method of insulation will not be cheaper than a ventilated facade. In addition, it violates the recommendations of the standards, which indicate that the air gap should be located between the insulation and the outer layer.

Video description

What happens if it is wrong to insulate with polystyrene - in the video:

Features of a hinged facade

In this case, the requirements for the peel strength of the insulation surface are not as high as for the "wet facade", so the density of the mats can be less than 125 kg/m³, but higher than 80 kg/m³.

Attention! When choosing how to insulate a wooden house from the outside, you need to know that the use of rolled mineral wool in hinged facades is not recommended by regulatory documents.

There are ready-made systems of hinged facades with their own fastening subsystem, a set of panels and fasteners. The only drawback of such systems is the need for individual adjustment to the specific geometry of the house and walls. As a rule, these systems are designed for houses made of brick or building blocks, and aluminum sandwich panels, artificial stone, porcelain stoneware are used as cladding.

For facing wooden houses, imitation of timber, block house, planken, siding are usually used. That is, those materials that are more in line with the aesthetics of a wooden house.

If you want to change the decorative qualities of a wooden house, you can use facade panels made of artificial stone when cladding

The most common practice of making crates from wooden beam- it is easy to adapt to the surface of the walls, it is easier to fix, it does not change size with temperature changes and does not serve as a "cold bridge".

Wooden crate is the easiest option

The only drawback of wooden structures is low resistance to moisture. Therefore, both the elements of the crate and the finishing panels made of natural wood must be treated with an antiseptic before installation.

As a result - what other options can be considered

The article described only the two most common ways to insulate a wooden house from the outside. What is better in your case and other options should be discussed with the developer, who knows the local conditions. The use of eco-wool has not yet become widespread, although the technology is quite simple - mounting the crate to the wall, applying a “wet” insulation (mixed with glue) to the surface using special equipment, cladding with facade panels along the crate. Brick cladding on flexible connections follows the same rules as for a stone house, with the only restriction on the choice of insulation - the use of only mineral wool.

Despite the apparent simplicity of the whole process, when installing any type of insulation, there are a sufficient number of pitfalls that must be taken into account so that all the work is not done in vain. If there is no experience, then it is always better to invite a professional, especially since self-respecting developers perform all work under the contract and give a guarantee.

In order to keep the warmth and comfort in the house, it is necessary to add a heat-insulating layer to the outer walls. Particular attention is paid to buildings that have been in operation for a long time and have experienced many negative impacts. Therefore, many owners are interested in the issue of warming an old wooden house.

A house made of wood has the ability to let vapors through, so that it is always comfortable to be in the premises. If you choose the wrong material for insulation, you can completely close the exit of moisture, which will lead to its accumulation in the walls of the building. This will lead to premature destruction of the entire structure.

Mineral wool

Experts say that the best insulation for an old wooden house cannot be found. And indeed it is. has the following properties:

  1. Retains heat very well.
  2. Isolates the interior from extraneous sounds from the environment.
  3. Light weight helps to do everything quickly and efficiently.
  4. The structure of the material allows you to hide all the irregularities.
  5. Fire and environmental safety.
  6. Rodents do not use to create nests.

But there are also a number of negative points:

  • protection from moisture is necessary, therefore mineral wool is torn with a vapor barrier membrane, on the one hand, and a windproof film, on the other;
  • requires mechanical fixation.

But such shortcomings are easy to deal with, because this option is suitable for an old house and or a new building.

Styrofoam

Insulation from the class available. Therefore, it is in demand among all construction companies and private developers. In addition to this positive moment, there are a number of others:

  1. Good thermal insulation properties.
  2. Has soundproofing.
  3. Does not absorb moisture.
  4. Withstands small mechanical loads.

But a small set of disadvantages makes the polystyrene unsuitable for insulating a village house from a log house:

  • lack of steam capacity;
  • rapid destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation;
  • rodents and insects love to create their homes in this material;
  • Styrofoam ignites easily, and then smolders with the release of caustic substances.

The tree already burns well, and if the finish is such that being in such a house will be life-threatening.

Penoplex (polystyrene)

This material is a close relative of polystyrene. But manufacturers have slightly improved the properties of the insulation, due to which the cost has also increased. What are the characteristics of penoplex?

  1. Improved thermal insulation properties. If a foam plastic 10 cm thick is needed to insulate the house, then 5 cm foam can be replaced.
  2. Withstands high mechanical stress.
  3. Doesn't absorb moisture at all.
  4. There are also soundproofing properties.
  5. Penoplex is produced with the addition of flame retardants, substances that prevent the material from igniting under the influence of fire. Therefore, compared to polystyrene, foam is safer.

Sometimes it is used as thermal insulation for wooden buildings. But it is only suitable for a plinth or foundation. This is due to the lack of steam capacity. As a result, condensation will form on the walls, which means it will contribute to the development of mold and mildew.

What is the best way to insulate?

A house with a long service life requires not only insulation of the facade, but also all structural elements as a whole. Such actions will help to more effectively store heat inside the house. Therefore, we consider all the elements separately:

Wall insulation

It is better to isolate the walls from the outside. This shifts the dew point towards the environment, which allows it to be removed from the base much faster. If you insulate the walls from the inside, you can cause quite the opposite result. In this case, the walls will still freeze through.

For wall insulation, we choose hard mats of mineral wool. If there are material opportunities, you can take the foil version. The foil layer will repel heat from the walls. Before installing the insulation, be sure to close all the cracks.

In this case, we use a tourniquet, dry moss or tow. With this material, we tightly caulk the interventional space or cracks that can form on the logs.

Ceiling

There are two ways to insulate the ceiling:

  • from the side of the room;
  • from the attic side.

Both the first and second methods are effective. Harder materials are laid on the ceiling. If there is an attic under the roof, then it is better to resort to insulation from the side of the rooms. Then a structure is created from beams, between which a sheet insulation is placed. Don't forget about vapor barrier membranes.

When there is an attic under the roof, you can use mineral wool, and even polystyrene. A more rigid material must be laid on top of the insulation. It can be chipboard, which will protect the insulation from bursting.

There is an option when using bulk insulation e.g. sawdust, gravel. But such materials need a lot, which can be even more expensive than using modern heaters.

Floor

The choice of insulation technology for a dilapidated house depends on whether there is a basement or not. If there is a basement, then first insulate it. It is possible that after this it will not be necessary to further isolate the floor.

But if such a need has already been determined, then the following options are chosen:

  1. Underfloor heating (electric heating). Not always suitable for old wooden structures, as it requires reliable electrical wiring.
  2. The use of thermal insulation materials. They choose only hard options, but be sure to make a plank floor or cover with chipboard or OSB boards, and then decorate with the selected floor material.

It is in an old wooden house that large heat losses occur due to dilapidated floors. Therefore, do not neglect the possibility of isolating the floors. More precisely, start insulating the house from the floors.

How to insulate an old wooden house with your own hands?

The tree must be specially treated before any outdoor work can be started. Especially if the design is closed from the eyes of the owner. Therefore, carefully and carefully adhere to the insulation technology if you do everything yourself.

And if you trusted the masters, then do not forget to control the team. It often happens that employees want to get the job done earlier and mess around a bit. This can lead to premature failure of the structure.

Surface preparation

Let's prepare the base first:

  1. Remove all dirt and stains, traces of insects or fungus.
  2. Remove old decorative coating.
  3. Remove hinged structures that will interfere with all work.
  4. Close all cracks.
  5. Cover by wooden structure protective compounds. These are antiseptic impregnations or mastics and moisture-repellent compounds. This will significantly extend the life of the foundation.

If the packaging says that it is desirable to make several layers, then it is better to do as the manufacturer recommends. If you save at this stage, you may regret it later.

Laying a vapor barrier

After the impregnation is completely dry, proceed to laying the membranes. This layer will protect the walls from moisture and allow vapors to freely pass through the insulation and go outside.

  • start laying from the bottom of the wall in vertical stripes;
  • each subsequent strip finds, on the previous one, by 10–15 cm;
  • joints are fixed with adhesive tape;
  • the membrane itself is fixed with a construction stapler.

Lathing installation

For the frame, wooden bars or metal profiles are used. If a wooden frame is chosen, then its parts also require special treatment in order to last as long as the decorative layer. In addition, the bars will not be able to hide the unevenness of the walls, which means that you will have to put pegs or chop off in some places.

With metal, everything is much simpler - we take and install. Special retractable brackets will easily hide all the shortcomings. But such a design will cost a little more than a wooden one.

The method of installing the frame depends on whether the heater will be used or not, and also on what decorative material it was decided to install on the facade.

The approximate plan is:

  • first we do the markup. The step between the elements is equal to the width of the insulation;
  • screw elements;
  • we check how evenly the parts are installed using the building level.

Installing a heat insulator

The material that acts as a heat insulator is placed between the elements of the crate. Mats are laid tightly. At the same time, make sure that there are no gaps. Mineral wool should not bulge.

If such flaws appear, then they will later become cold bridges, which partially or completely levels out the work on insulation. Therefore, the material should lie tightly, but evenly.

Laying the wind protection film

It is customary to lay a windproof membrane on top of the insulation. This material will protect the mineral wool from the penetration of atmospheric moisture under the finish. The laying principle is the same as for the vapor barrier film:

  1. Let's start from the bottom.
  2. We make vertical stripes.
  3. We lay in an overlap of 105-15 cm.
  4. We glue the joints with tape.
  5. The membrane is fixed with a stapler to the crate.

It is also appropriate to use mushroom dowels here. This mechanical fastener will additionally fix the insulation and the membrane.

Installation of the crate for fixing finishing materials from the outside

An additional crate also creates a ventilation gap, which allows you to remove the steam coming out of the interior. The size of the gap can vary from 3 to 8 mm. It all depends on the thickness of the insulation material and the region in which the house is located.

Exterior wall decoration

As a finishing material for a wooden house, you can choose any known option. It is important to take into account the condition of the structure, that is, the strength of the structure. If the house is too old, do not choose heavy material, as the structure may not withstand the load and collapse.

  • fully follow the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer;
  • fix the details to the elements of the crate;
  • choose dry weather;
  • carry out the insulation of a wooden house only in the warm season.

Possible problems with insulation

Before insulating an old wooden house, be sure to check how durable the structure is. If necessary, walls and foundations need to be strengthened. For those who have never done such a thing, it is better to take care of construction team rather than start experimenting.

And for those who nevertheless decided to do everything on their own, you should strictly adhere to the instructions and not lose sight of anything. It is important to properly prepare the base, choose a heater and finish.

It is good when the house is warm and comfortable, it sounds especially true for owners of private houses. The issue of home insulation is often of interest to rural residents, most of them live in wooden buildings.

If you start to put in order an old wooden house, then you definitely need to do its warming. There are also new houses made of timber, which for various reasons were not insulated during construction and the owners are forced to solve this problem after the completion of construction work. With thermal insulation, a natural question immediately arises, what material to use and how wooden houses are insulated.

log houses

Wooden buildings are considered the most environmentally friendly, they are not hot in summer, and warm in winter, you always feel normal level humidity. Such buildings require a special approach and knowledge of operation, so that they always live as comfortably as possible, and heat losses are minimized.

Most of the heat in wooden houses leaves through the roof up to about 40%, up to 35% can go through the windows, the walls take about 10%, and the floors 15%. As a result, it turns out that a lot of money is spent on heating housing during the cold period of time, and there is still no comfortable temperature for the family to live.

Properly chosen means for performing thermal insulation normalize temperature regime in a dwelling, including a wooden one. A wide range of insulation materials makes it possible to insulate houses outside and inside. Professionals recommend for greater efficiency to make thermal insulation with outside buildings to live comfortably throughout the year.

Material selection

Most suitable option mineral wool can be called for the insulation of wooden houses, it has all the necessary qualities - it is lightweight, keeps heat well and has an affordable price. The lightness and elasticity of mineral wool also makes it easy to lay the material, it will not be affected by thermal deformations of the walls of the house, and “cold bridges” will not appear. After the walls of the house are insulated with mineral wool from the outside, they need to be sheathed with a board so that the building has a traditional appearance.

You can also insulate your home using polystyrene foam, but they are not recommended to insulate wooden houses, such insulation is suitable for brick and concrete buildings. The tree must breathe, and polystyrene foam, despite its qualities, does not pass air well. For this reason, condensation may accumulate, and this will lead to the formation of mold and mildew.

A good option for external insulation of wooden houses will be ecowool. As part of modern insulation 80% cellulose and 20% antiseptics are present. They help protect the building from rodents and mold. Such material is suitable for insulation of any type of buildings.

There are also options for warming wooden houses with fiberglass, expanded clay, basalt wool, sawdust granules. Any of the selected materials must have the following characteristics:

  1. The degree of vapor permeability of the insulation should be higher than that of wood or at the same level.
  2. Increased moisture resistance to avoid future mold or fungus formation on the walls of the building.
  3. Good refractory properties, this is especially important for wooden buildings.
  4. breathable ability. The selected material must have this property, otherwise the wooden walls of the house will not be able to “breathe”, and this will disrupt the entire microclimate inside the building.
  5. Loose structure of the insulation. It will help to fit more closely to the walls and will give a greater effect in the thermal insulation of the home.

How to insulate wooden houses?

The process of warming wooden houses takes place in stages, first you need to decide on the material, and then proceed to the vapor barrier of the house. As a material, you can choose:

  1. aluminum foil.
  2. Special vapor barrier film.
  3. Ruberoid.
  4. Polyethylene film.

Vapor barrier will give ventilation to the facade of the building under the film, which is especially important for the walls of a wooden building with a smooth board. On such a surface, it is necessary to fill wooden slats with an approximate thickness of 2.5 cm at a distance of 1 meter from each other in a vertical position. A layer of vapor barrier is stuffed onto the prepared and fixed rails. In the upper and lower parts, it is necessary to make small holes for ventilation, with a diameter of about 20 mm. This will prevent moisture from accumulating under the film and will maximize the life of the wooden structure. The vapor barrier is attached with nails or staples, as well as additionally with adhesive tape, so that moisture does not get into the attachment points in the future.

The second stage is the device of the frame. For this work, you will need boards 40-50 mm thick and 100 mm wide. The boards are stuffed vertically on the edge to the wall surface with a distance that will be a couple of centimeters less than the thickness of the insulation (mineral wool slabs). For this work, the board should not be thin, since the facing material will then also be attached to it.

The next step is to lay a layer of thermal insulation material. It is best to lay mineral wool in two layers with a thickness of 50 mm boards. Insulation plates are installed between the frame boards very tightly to each other so that there are no gaps between them. The middle part of the plates of the second layer of mineral wool should be at the joints of the first layer of insulation so that no gaps form. Although mineral wool boards are resilient and semi-rigid, they can hold together without slipping on the frame without fastening. It is better to fasten them with metal or plastic anchors for greater reliability.

The last layer is waterproofing, which must be laid on top of the insulation. The waterproofing film must allow steam to pass through and not retain moisture on the wall and thermal insulation. The waterproofing film must be firmly nailed or stapled to the wooden frame. Make the joints overlap by about 5-10 cm, and glue them with self-adhesive tape for better sealing.

After finishing laying the waterproofing, you can proceed to the exterior cladding of the walls of the house. The main stages of insulation have been completed, and the finishing material will only perform a decorative function. What to choose for facing will depend on the style of the building and the taste of the owners of the house, as well as their financial capabilities. Most often chosen for decorative cladding natural wood or plastic, but keep in mind that the total thickness of the insulation can be from 15 to 25 cm. This will significantly deepen the windows of the old building, so you should think about how they will be closed from the side of the openings - platbands, siding, new window sills.

It is not easy to insulate the outside, it is easier to insulate a house with inside. If you correctly perform the external insulation of the walls of the house, this will help not only to avoid heat loss, the thermal insulation layer will serve as protection against temperature changes, as well as from dampness and humidity. If possible, it is necessary to deal with the insulation of the foundation of the building. It is best to do this even before the start of wall insulation, having processed the foundation in advance and then sheathing it with felt or jute tow. Before insulating the walls of the house, it is advisable to treat them with an antiseptic. This will help prevent damage to your home in the future.

It is advisable to caulk all the cracks in the walls of a wooden house, which can be easily detected in calm weather with a lit candle, bringing it as close as possible to the surface of the wall. When the flame from a candle leans towards the wall, then there is a gap in this place. The presence of cracks can be seen in winter. In these places there will be a frost coating during the heating period of the building. It is best to caulk cracks in warm and dry weather, using tow, hemp or jute.

A wooden house is a special structure, so it requires a special approach to itself. It can be compared to a living being, it settles in the spring and rises in the summer. Such a structure also needs insulation, like other types of buildings, but since a wooden house “breathes”, it needs a heater that will help condensate pass through it. Properly executed thermal insulation can extend the life of a wooden structure, it will always be warm and comfortable.

kotel.guru

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the outside

  • Stages of wall insulation
  • Work materials
  • Work order

Today, more and more people in the construction of houses in order to maintain their health prefer to use natural materials, including the tree. Wooden houses are often assembled from a square bar with a section of 150x150 mm and 200x200 mm. Such buildings came to us from warm countries, where the average annual temperature is about 0 degrees. In the climate of Russia and the CIS, they require good heating. This leads to high costs for electricity, gas and other heat sources. In recent years, wooden houses have been built from rounded logs.


It is more efficient to insulate houses from a bar from the outside.

In a wooden house it is always quiet, calm, cozy and comfortable. To achieve even greater comfort and in order to save money on space heating, many owners try to insulate their wooden houses both outside and inside. Internal insulation has a big drawback: it significantly reduces the internal area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house. Therefore, the insulation of a wooden house from the outside is the most ideal option.

If you properly insulate the walls, you can minimize the heat loss of a wooden house.

You can do all this with your own hands. How to insulate a wooden house from the outside?

Stages of wall insulation


Warming log house outside.

The whole technology of warming a house from the outside comes down to several main stages:

  • choice of insulation material;
  • calculation of the amount of materials;
  • direct installation of thermal insulation outside the building;
  • final finishing of the facade.

Among the heaters, the most popular sheet foam, which is also called polystyrene foam, and mineral wool. For a wooden house, it is preferable to choose mineral wool. It is better ventilated (breathes) and provides excellent thermal insulation. Expanded polystyrene is a very good insulation, but it does not breathe. For wooden walls, this is detrimental. They will soon begin to become covered with mold, fungus and rot. To prevent this from happening, it is better to insulate the house with mineral wool.

Calculating the amount of mineral wool is not difficult. This material is sold in slabs and rolls. It is better to choose cotton wool in plates. They are simply more convenient to use, especially when insulating even walls. The thickness of the plates is usually 50 mm. With a wooden wall thickness of 20 cm and an outdoor temperature in winter of up to minus 20 degrees, one layer of mineral wool is enough for insulation. At temperatures below minus 20, the walls can be insulated with two or three layers of heat insulator.

Back to index


The design of the insulation of a wooden house for the average climatic zone.

To perform insulation work, you will need:

  • mineral wool;
  • wooden lath 50x50 mm for single-layer insulation;
  • rail 50x100 mm for two-layer insulation;
  • waterproofing film;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • antiseptic for wood (antifungal emulsion);
  • construction stapler;
  • Staples;
  • metal or plastic anchors;
  • building level or plumb.

Back to index


The scheme of layers for the insulation of a wooden house.

Work on the insulation of walls outside is best done in the summer and do it in a certain sequence:

  • surface preparation;
  • installation of a waterproofing layer;
  • installation of wooden crates;
  • installation of mineral wool slabs;
  • installation of an external waterproofing layer;
  • facade finishing.

Surface preparation includes the treatment of the outer surfaces of the walls with an antiseptic or antifungal emulsion. After processing, the emulsion should dry well.

Aluminum foil, polyethylene film, roofing felt are used as waterproofing. But it is better to purchase a special porous insulating film. It has small membranes to allow air and water vapor to pass only in one direction. Outwardly, one side of the film is glossy, the other is slightly fleecy and rough. With this rough side, the film is directed towards the wall of the house. The waterproofing film is attached to the wooden wall with brackets using a construction stapler. Film layers are recommended to be applied in a horizontal direction, starting from the bottom. The upper layers are superimposed on the lower ones with an overlap of 10-15 cm. It is advisable to additionally glue the joints with construction tape, which is sold together with the film.


Scheme of wall insulation with mineral wool.

The purpose of this layer is to ensure ventilation of the facade of the house under the film. On the smooth walls it is recommended to fill slats with a thickness of 20-25 mm every m. Attach the film to these slats. At the top and bottom between the slats, holes with a diameter of about 20 mm should be cut in the film. This technology will not allow moisture to accumulate between wooden wall and vapor barrier film.

On top of the laid waterproofing film framing is installed. Before that, you need to measure the width of the thermal insulation plates in centimeters. Subtract 2 from the result obtained. The resulting figure should be remembered. It is at this distance that the slats of the crate will be located.

The installation of the crate begins with fixing the initial rail with self-tapping screws to the very corner of the house. The verticality of its installation is controlled by a level or a plumb line. The next bars are fastened in such a way that mineral wool slabs are very tightly placed between them.

Mineral wool is very easy to install. It can be cut if necessary sharp knife. The insulation boards are attached to the wall with anchors. Through the cotton wool, holes are drilled in the wood of the wall in increments of 50 cm, anchors are hammered into them. The core is driven into the anchor through a layer of cotton wool. He wedges the anchor body and presses the insulation plate against the wall with his wide cap.

After installing all the insulation boards on the wall, a new layer of waterproofing is laid outside this insulation. The rough side of the film is applied to a layer of mineral wool. It is fastened with brackets to the bars of the crate. On top of the film and staples, rails with a section of about 40x50 mm are fastened with self-tapping screws. They will be needed as a crate for finishing the walls. For this finish, lining, siding, facade boards and other finishing facade materials are used.

To insulate the walls from the outside is not the end of the work. It is necessary to take into account the fact that when the house is insulated from the outside, the thickness of the walls will increase by 8-20 cm. It is necessary to consider the question of how to close the insulation layer from the side of window and door openings. Possible options- new architraves and window sills, siding, lining.

http://youtu.be/Lxy-eLCamq8

Properly executed insulation of the walls of a wooden structure requires an investment of time, labor and Money. But the result is a large annual savings in heating costs, the service life of the building is significantly extended, living conditions in such a house become more comfortable. To insulate walls is to extend the life of wooden housing.

1poteply.ru

How to insulate the walls of a wooden house outside: characteristics of heaters, how to insulate a house with high quality

The tree is considered one of the most the best heaters, so houses made of such material often do not need additional insulation. However, some owners of wooden buildings believe that the tree may someday begin to deteriorate, and in order to protect their possessions, they insulate them and also clad them. In addition, high-quality thermal insulation can significantly save on electricity consumption, which is consumed by heating devices. Before you start warming the house from the outside, you should decide not only on the order of work, but also on the material that will be used for this.

What material is needed for the insulation of external walls?

How is a wooden house insulated from the outside? For this, the following materials are used:

  • Mineral wool. This material has good thermal and sound insulation performance, it provides a tight fit and practically does not need additional fixation. In addition, the elasticity and softness of the material allows you to stack it easily and efficiently. Mineral wool is not affected by high temperatures. It also does not allow mold or fungus to spread through its structure, and toxic substances are not used in its creation.
  • Penoplex (expanded polystyrene). It is a special plate, which is created from expanded polystyrene with a cellular structure. Such material has low thermal conductivity, good strength, long service life, practically does not absorb moisture, and is also resistant to temperature extremes and frost. However, penoplex has a high cost and is easily damaged by rodents. Under influence high temperatures it melts and burns easily.
  • Styrofoam. It is considered the most popular material used to insulate the outer walls of a wooden house. Its structure is a bit like penoplex, but its cells are of a different size, and it also has a different density and manufacturing method. Such material has good thermal insulation properties, does not absorb moisture at all and has a low weight. It is easy to install and also has a low price. However, the foam has poor gas and vapor permeability, which is why air does not enter the room.
  • Polyurethane foam. Is enough effective material used for wall insulation outside a wooden house. Its installation is carried out by spraying. Many people prefer polyurethane foam to other heaters for its remarkable qualities and the ability to replace the old layer with a new one only after 30 years. Its foamy structure perfectly protects against frost and dust. Polyurethane foam is not afraid of caustic chemical fumes and even acids. In addition, it does not absorb moisture well, has high environmental friendliness and good fire resistance. However, it is worth protecting it from ultraviolet radiation, which can quickly age the material.

Requirements for materials used for wall insulation

The main characteristics that you need to pay attention to when choosing a heater for the walls of a wooden house are the following:

For example, expanded polystyrene has absolutely ideal characteristics, but it has a significant drawback - it is a high degree of flammability and the release of ethylene, which has a negative effect on the human body. But mineral heaters practically do not burn, have good chemical resistance, hygroscopicity and a high degree of sound insulation.

You should simply strive to carry out high-quality insulation with materials in order to avoid such unfavorable moments as excessive moisture and instability to the effects of rodents, and at the same time increase the positive qualities - fire resistance, strength, reliability.

It is necessary to consider in more detail the technology of insulating the outer walls of a wooden house with such popular materials as mineral wool and polystyrene foam.

Insulation of the outer walls of a wooden house with mineral wool

Before proceeding with the insulation of the house, it is necessary to calculate the amount of material. Mineral wool is produced in the form of rolls, slabs or mats. It is best to use material in the form of plates for insulation, since rolls are completely inconvenient. For calculation the right amount insulation should know how thick the supporting structure has. The natural factor is also important. For example, for wooden walls with a thickness of no more than 20 cm, one layer of mineral wool will suffice, provided that the winter is not too severe. In addition, the following tools and materials must be purchased for the insulation process:

  • self-tapping screws;
  • anchors;
  • special film for waterproofing;
  • building level;
  • construction stapler;
  • plumb.

Then they begin to prepare the surface that will need to be insulated. Due to the fact that it is wooden, it is necessary to process it by special means preventing the formation of fungus. It can be an emulsion or a primer. In order for the antiseptic to dry thoroughly, you should leave it for a while. Outside, the walls must be dry when laying insulation. The joints that are between the boards should also be studied. There should be no damage or cracks.

After that, thermal insulation is carried out. First, a vapor barrier layer is attached. It can be roofing material, vapor barrier, plastic film or aluminum foil. The vapor barrier layer is necessary for the ventilation of the facade of the house. Vertically narrow slats are stuffed onto the surface, on which a layer of vapor barrier is attached. Above and below between these slats make small ventilation holes, which prevent the formation of moisture that negatively affects wooden walls. To prevent moisture from seeping through the holes from the staples or nails, they should be sealed with tape.

Then the crate is installed. A frame is made for the subsequent installation of a layer of thermal insulation. Boards should be 40 mm thick and 100 mm wide. They should be fastened with the rib part to the wall. The distance between them directly depends on the thickness of the insulation.

Proceed to the installation of thermal insulation material. It should be laid between the installed bars of the crate. If necessary, mineral wool is cut with an ordinary knife. Installation is carried out, completely excluding all gaps and cracks. Insulation is carried out as follows: the junction line of the first layer of insulation should be at the level of the middle of the slab of the second layer. Mineral wool is an elastic material, so no additional fasteners are required. Then several small holes are made in the insulation. They are required for fasteners and anchors.

Perform waterproofing of the structure. Attach a special bar that retains moisture and does not let air through. It should be overlapped and secured with a construction stapler. To maintain tightness, all joints and openings should be sealed with construction tape. A rail is attached to the waterproofing layer, creating the movement of air flows between the outer skin and the vapor barrier layer. At the bottom, the free space is closed metal mesh protecting against rodents and insects. After the insulation is completed, the house is sheathed with any finishing material.

Insulation of the outer walls of a wooden house with foam plastic

This material is considered the most popular used to insulate the outer walls of a wooden house. Before starting insulation work, make sure that the joints on the wall of the house do not have cracks or holes. Then the boards are vertically mounted on which the foam will be attached. In order for the sheets to fit tightly into the constructed frame, it is necessary to observe a certain distance between the boards. To do this, you need to add the thickness of the foam and the board, and subtract 5 cm from the resulting amount.

The frame is mounted in this way: the bars with the rib part should be nailed to the middle of the previous ones. The resulting structure must have the same depth as the insulation. Then a layer of thermal insulation is attached. Work starts from the bottom. There must be the correct distance between the bars - this is the key to high-quality fastening of the foam. Check if there are gaps at the joints.

On top of the previous layer, the diffusion membrane should be fixed with a construction stapler, and the holes and joints should be insulated with adhesive tape. After the insulation of the house is completed, it is clad.

Thus, in order to qualitatively insulate a wooden house from the outside, it is necessary to use only environmentally friendly materials that have the appropriate technical specifications. To do this, it is necessary to carefully study the positive and negative sides of each insulation and draw the appropriate conclusions.

kotel.guru

How to insulate a wooden house from the outside with your own hands: choosing the right insulation, stages of work on insulation

Wood is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular materials used in construction. At the same time, it is natural and environmentally friendly.

IN Lately the construction of wooden houses is becoming more widespread. A room made of such material turns out to be very warm, and the owners do not even try to insulate it, but in vain. In frosty winters, even a tree is not able to retain heat. Therefore, many people have a question: how to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside? This needs to be looked into in more detail.

The better to insulate a wooden house from the outside

Houses made of wood can be insulated from the outside or from the inside. According to most experts, it is external insulation gives the greatest effect because:

  • saves space inside the house;
  • this is a great defense bearing walls from natural disasters;
  • moisture on the walls will never accumulate, thereby preventing the appearance of condensation, and accordingly the tree will not rot and decay.

Warming the house from the outside requires careful selection of the necessary material. It is best to use mineral wool and polystyrene foam for these purposes.

Mineral wool

Most often, do-it-yourself warming of a wooden house is carried out using mineral wool, which has the following qualities:

Styrofoam

It is an environmentally friendly material and has been used as a material for thermal insulation for a very long time. It is resistant to moisture and various microorganisms, and is also very durable. However, experts do not advise warming a wooden house with it, since it has one serious drawback - high flammability and the ability to release ethylene, which is harmful to the human body.

Insulation of a wooden house with mineral wool

To insulate the building, it is best to purchase mineral wool, which is most often used for these purposes. In hardware stores you can buy mineral wool in the following variations:

It is best to use material in slabs for insulation, since rolls are very inconvenient.

Material Quantity Calculation

First, calculate the amount of material needed for insulation. To do this, you need to know how thick the supporting structure has. It is also necessary to take into account the natural conditions. For example, during not too severe winters, the walls of a house 20 cm thick should be insulated with one layer of mineral wool.

In addition to the material for insulation, you should purchase anchors, self-tapping screws and a special film for waterproofing. You will also need tools such as a plumb line, building level and a special stapler.

Surface preparation for insulation

Then proceed to the preparation of the surface, which requires insulation. Since it is wooden, it must be treated with special means from the formation of fungus. You can use emulsion or primer. In order for the selected antiseptic to dry thoroughly, it is left for a while. One more condition must be observed - the walls should not be wet. Correctly lay the insulation only on a dry surface. There should not be any gaps between the boards. If they nevertheless arose, then the situation is corrected with the help of jute tow or polyurethane foam.

Vapor barrier and batten installation

The next step is the implementation of vapor barrier. They begin to fix the vapor barrier layer, using polyethylene film, aluminum foil, as well as roofing felt or a vapor barrier. Such a layer is intended to ensure that the facade of the house has ventilation. Narrow slats begin to be vertically stuffed onto a smooth surface, which will subsequently be used to attach the vapor barrier layer.

Ventilation holes are provided between the rails at the bottom and at the top. They are necessary to prevent the formation of moisture, which can damage wooden walls. To prevent water from penetrating through the holes from the staples or nails, they should be sealed with tape.

Starting to install the framing. To do this, install a frame that will be used to mount the thermal insulation layer. The thickness of the boards should be 40 mm and the width 100 mm. They are attached to the wall with a rib part. The distance between the bars directly depends on how thick the material for insulation has. Be sure to use the building level, with which they align the position of the boards relative to the vertical level.

Installation of thermal insulation material

Next, proceed to the installation of material for insulation. It is laid between the bars of the crate. If necessary, the mineral wool is cut with an ordinary sharp knife. Installation is carried out in such a way as to completely eliminate gaps and cracks. A feature of mineral wool is its elasticity, which allows you not to use additional fasteners. After that, several holes are made in the insulation at a distance of 50 cm from each other for fasteners and anchors.

Construction waterproofing and facade cladding

Then proceed to the waterproofing of the structure. To do this, they attach a special film that can retain moisture and does not allow air to pass through. Lay it with an overlap and fix it with ordinary nails or a construction stapler to the frame. For tightness, all joints and openings are sealed with construction tape. A rail should be attached to the waterproofing layer. As a result, air circulation is created between the outer skin and the vapor barrier layer. From below, the free space must be closed with a metal mesh so that various insects and rodents do not penetrate inside.

The final stage of warming the house is the cladding of the facade with the necessary finishing material, for example, a block house or siding. Mounting process finishing coating carried out according to technology.

Insulation of a wooden house with foam plastic

Styrofoam is also used to insulate the house with their own hands. Before starting the installation of insulation, check the quality of the joints on the wall. After that, the boards that will be needed to fix the foam are mounted. For tight entry of insulation sheets into the constructed frame, it is necessary to strictly observe the required distance of the boards from each other. To do this, add up the thickness of the board, and subtract 5 cm from the resulting amount.

The frame begins to be mounted in this way: the bars are nailed to the middle of the previous ones with the edge part. Then they begin to attach a layer of insulation, this process is best started from the bottom. The correct distance between the bars is the key to good fastening of the material. Be sure to check for gaps at the joints. A diffusion membrane is fixed on top of the previous layer with a construction stapler, and the holes and joints are sealed with adhesive tape. In the end, they carry out the facing of a wooden house.

September 4, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior decoration, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside allows not only to provide comfortable living conditions, but also to save on heating in winter time. However, it is necessary to deal with this procedure competently, since a violation of technology can lead to the fact that the walls of the building will become unusable very quickly. Therefore, further I will describe in detail how external insulation is performed using two modern technologies.

Features of insulation

First of all, it should be noted that there are two technologies for external insulation of wooden houses:

  1. hinged (ventilated) facade- the principle of this technology is to mount the frame on the walls, which is subsequently sheathed with siding, clapboard or other finishing material. The insulation is located in the space between the wall and the finishing material.
    This technology is the most preferred, as wet work is excluded. In addition, the facade is stronger and more durable;
  2. wet facade- in this case, the walls of the house are pasted over with insulation, after which they are plastered using a special technology.

Below I will tell you how to properly insulate the house in both cases.

hinged facade

The installation process of the hinged facade includes several main stages:

materials

First of all, we will consider how and how to insulate a wooden house from the outside using the hinged facade technology. For this you will need the following materials:

materials Features and purpose
insulation The optimal solution is mineral wool. I must say that people are often interested - is it possible to insulate the walls of a wooden house with foam plastic? In principle, the use of polystyrene foam is allowed, however, it should be borne in mind that this material is quite combustible, and besides, it does not allow steam to pass through, which will negatively affect the microclimate inside the room.

Therefore, it is better to overpay a little, but still use mineral wool for these purposes.

Racks for the frame As a rule, bars or even boards are used. You can attach them to the wall using metal corners or brackets. I must say that as an alternative to boards or timber, you can use the profile that is used for the installation of drywall.
Vapor barrier film Protects the insulation from getting wet.
Finishing material It can be lining, block house, siding or any other facade material.
Mezhventsovy heater Jute tow is usually used, however, gaps can be filled with special foam or other suitable materials.
Wood preservative Protects walls from the negative effects of moisture, decay and other biological influences.

You can insulate the basement of the house with penoplex with your own hands. This material is quite durable, resistant to various negative influences, and also has the property of self-extinguishing when ignited.

Facade preparation

Before insulating a wooden house from the outside, perform the following preparatory work:

  1. dismantle all attachments that may interfere with work - these are ebbs, visors, window sills, antennas, etc .;
  2. after that, treat the walls with antiseptic impregnation;
  3. at the end of the work, it is necessary to fill all interventional gaps with insulation, if any.

You can start warming a wooden house at least a year after its construction, so that the building has time to shrink.

Installation of the frame insulation

The next step is installation. The instruction looks like this:

  1. installation of the frame, start with the arrangement of the ventilation gap. To do this, attach boards about two centimeters thick to the walls. You can arrange them both vertically and horizontally, the main thing is that later you can attach racks to them;
  2. further attached to the boards vapor barrier film stapler. It must be overlapped and stretched so that a space forms between it and the wall. It is advisable to glue the joints of the film with adhesive tape.
    I must say that the network offers many schemes for wall insulation without a ventilation gap, however, in this case, moisture can accumulate in the space between the wall and the insulation, which leads to negative consequences;
  3. after that, the installation of racks is carried out. You should start with the installation of two extreme racks, between which ropes are stretched, serving as beacons for intermediate rails.
    The end posts are installed at the same distance from the wall, strictly vertically. If you use boards as racks, then fix them on the walls metal corners and screws, as shown in the photo above. After that, install intermediate rails, which are located in increments of one or two centimeters less than the width of the mineral wool slabs.

Then, heat-insulating material should be laid in the space between the racks. The mats should fit snugly against each other and against the posts so that there are no gaps in the insulation;

  1. then a vapor barrier film is attached to the frame. As in the first case, it must be overlapped. You can fix the film with the help of horizontal rails, which will additionally hold the insulation;

This completes the insulation of the facade with your own hands.

Frame sheathing

The final stage of work is the sheathing of the frame. As mentioned above, there are several options for finishing. If you don’t know what material is better to sheathe the facade, then focus primarily on cost, practicality, individual preferences, etc.

For example, lining is an environmentally friendly material, and it also allows you to maintain the attractive appearance of a wooden house. Vinyl siding is more practical, easy to clean and requires no maintenance.

So, if you decide to use siding for sheathing, then the work is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. before attaching the panels to the wall, it is necessary to install the starting profile, which is located horizontally around the perimeter of the house. In this case, you should leave a distance from the ground or blind area to the profile of about 10 cm;
  2. then corner profiles are installed at the corners of the house;
  3. after that, the first row of panels is installed. The lower part of the siding is inserted into the starting profile, and from above it is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws;
  4. according to this scheme, the whole house is sheathed;
  5. before mounting the last panel, fix the finishing profile;
  6. at the end of the work, additional elements are installed - slopes, ebbs, etc.

This completes the facade cladding with siding. I must say that the lining is attached approximately according to the same principle, the only thing is that a profile is not used for its installation.

Wet facade

The installation process of a wet facade includes several main steps:

Preparation of materials

Choosing which insulation is better to perform thermal insulation of the walls, in this case it is also better to give preference to mineral wool. Of course, in addition to insulation, some other building materials should also be purchased:

  • glue for mineral wool;
  • dowels-umbrellas;
  • fiberglass reinforcing mesh;
  • perforated corners
  • decorative plaster;
  • primer;
  • facade paint.

After preparing all these materials, you can get to work.

Wall insulation

As in the previous case, work begins with the preparation of the facade. This procedure is performed according to the scheme described above.

Then the walls are pasted with mineral wool for plaster:

  1. first of all, you should prepare the glue, according to the instructions on the package;
  2. then spread the adhesive on the mineral mats with a notched trowel. If the walls are uneven, the mortar should be applied with “blunders”, which will allow you to adjust the position of the plates relative to the wall.

In the process of gluing the mats, use the building level, and also stretch the beacons so that all the plates in each row are located in the same plane;

  1. according to this principle, all the walls of the house are pasted over;
  2. then the mineral wool is additionally fixed to the wall with dowels-umbrellas. To do this, drill holes in the wall directly through the insulation and hammer the dowels into them with a hammer. Umbrella hats should be slightly recessed;

  1. after that, you need to paste over the window openings with mineral wool. This procedure resembles the installation of slopes - cut the cotton wool on the panels of the desired size and paste over the openings with them. On the window slopes dowels are usually not installed, but they must be installed on the door.
  2. then you need to check the quality of the work done by applying the rule to various sections of the walls. If there are bumps on the wall, they can be eliminated with a special grater;
  3. then stick perforated corners on all outer corners using the same glue;
  4. at the end of the work, glue all the dowel caps with glue so that in the end the facade has a smooth surface.

When working with mineral wool, use personal protective equipment, as it causes irritation when it comes into contact with the skin.

Reinforcement

The next step is reinforcement. In fact, this is a rough plastering. It is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. prepare the mesh by cutting it into sheets right size. At the same time, keep in mind that on the wall it should overlap by about 10 cm;
  2. then cut the canvases for the slopes;
  3. then glue the mesh to the slopes. To do this, the glue should be applied in an even layer a few millimeters thick on the surface of the mineral wool, after which the mesh should be immediately applied. To “drown” the mesh in the solution, run a spatula over it from above, as shown in the photo above;
  4. after reinforcing the slopes, according to the same principle, the mesh is glued to the walls;
  5. after the surface has dried, the adhesive is applied again in a uniform thin layer. At the same time, use a wide spatula to eliminate all existing irregularities on the surface of the walls. This procedure is performed on the same principle as puttying.

People are often interested in the forums - how is it better to insulate an old wooden house? If the structure has lost its geometry, then the best choice will be brick clad. At the same time, mineral mats are laid between the facing wall and the wooden walls.

Decorative plastering is much easier and faster than reinforcement. The main thing is to follow a certain sequence of actions:

  1. First of all, you need to treat the surface of the wall with a primer. To do this, pour the liquid into the tray and then apply it to the wall. paint roller. To achieve maximum effect, the primer is applied in two layers;
  2. then prepare the solution according to the instructions on the package;
  3. then decorative plaster should be applied to the walls with a small or wide spatula. The layer should be as thin as possible;
  4. when the plaster begins to set on the walls, it should be rubbed with small, making circular or reciprocating hand movements. This will create a specific pattern.

It must be said that the application decorative plaster within the same wall must be performed in one go, otherwise the wall will not see the boundary along which you interrupted the work.

Painting

Painting is also a simple and quick procedure:

  1. start work with the preparation of the paint - the composition should be stirred and, if necessary, tinted;
  2. then pour the paint into the paint roller tray;
  3. after that, dip the roller into the paint, squeeze it slightly on a special platform in the bath, and treat the wall with it;
  4. use a paint brush to touch up hard-to-reach areas;
  5. after drying the surface of the walls, apply the paint with a second layer.

Output

Warming a wooden house from the outside, as we found out, can be done in two ways. However, in any case, in order to achieve a high-quality result, it is necessary to strictly follow the above instructions.

For more information, see the video in this article. If you have any difficulties in the process of work, ask questions in the comments, and I will be happy to help you.

September 4, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Before insulating a wooden house from the outside, you need to correctly select all the materials. The building made of wood has its own characteristics. First of all, it is worth remembering why wood still retains its popularity. There are several reasons for this:

  • good thermal performance;
  • providing a comfortable microclimate in the building;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • security;
  • the ability to pass air (the tree "breathes").

The insulation of a wooden house from the outside should be chosen so that all materials do not reduce the useful properties of wood. But sometimes it is difficult to do so. To choose a good insulating material, you will need to spend your time and study the basic information on the issue.

pie wall

Before insulating a wooden house from the outside, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the composition of the wall. After that, you can start choosing all necessary materials. The technology of warming a wooden house from the outside provides for the following layers:

  • vapor barrier;
  • insulation;
  • waterproofing;
  • outer cladding.

Vapor barrier and waterproofing are required to protect the material from moisture. Many types of thermal insulation are destroyed or cease to perform their function when exposed to water.

The choice of insulation

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house from the outside? The most popular materials in the construction market are:

  • mineral wool;
  • Styrofoam;
  • extruded polystyrene foam or Penoplex.

Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages that you need to consider before deciding how and with what to insulate your own home.

Styrofoam

Insulating a wooden house from the outside with your own hands in this case will be the cheapest. It can be bought almost everywhere. There are different types depending on the strength. Polyfoam has good thermal insulation performance, but the disadvantages include:

  • combustibility;
  • low strength;
  • resistance to mechanical damage.

Insulators for the walls of a wooden house of this type are not recommended for one reason: the foam practically does not let air through. This means that everything beneficial features wood, for which it is so valued as a material for the construction of cottages, are fading away.

Insulating a house made of wood with polystyrene foam is a rather pointless procedure. Yes, the room will be warm, but at the same time, the temperature and humidity regime will be disturbed due to lack of ventilation. The natural air exchange in the room is blocked, the arrangement of forced ventilation or air conditioning is required. Both options involve additional (and not small) costs, both during the construction process and during the operation of the building.

Also, the foam needs careful protection from moisture. Manufacturers claim that the insulation of wooden walls with foam plastic does not absorb water, but this is not so. The polystyrene beads themselves are resistant to moisture, but it can accumulate in the space between them. Freezing water expands. The well-known law of physics does not apply here: water is the only substance that increases in volume with increasing temperature.

As the water expands, the pressure inside the material increases. This will eventually cause the styrofoam to crumble into individual balls in the first or second winter. To replace the external insulation will have to make a lot of effort and spend money.

Extruded polystyrene foam

To perform the insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the outside, you can consider using Penoplex. It is the closest relative of polystyrene, but is devoid of most of its shortcomings.

First of all, the insulation of wooden houses with such material has greater strength. Penoplex is resistant to stress and mechanical damage. The second positive property is moisture resistance. The material is not afraid of moisture. This insulation for walls and ceilings can be used even without vapor barrier and waterproofing.
The benefits can also include:

  • high energy efficiency;
  • ease of installation;
  • ease of processing;
  • safety and environmental friendliness.

It is not recommended to use Penoplex for houses outside, but it will become ideal option for coverings. Such material is not afraid of loads. On top of it, it is enough to make a cement screed with a thickness of 30-50 mm. It can be used both for the floor of the first floor, and for attic floor. Also, very often expanded polystyrene is bought for floor insulation on the ground.


Mineral wool

What kind of insulation is better to protect the walls of the building? The answer here will be unequivocal. Both for the old wooden house and for the new one the best option will be mineral wool. It not only allows you to save the beneficial properties of wood, but also smoothes out its shortcomings.

If you insulate the walls of a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool, you can prevent a fire. Most of the materials in this group are non-combustible. This property distinguishes cotton wool from polystyrene and polystyrene foam.

Wall insulation in a wooden house outside with mineral wool conducts air well. When using it, you do not need to resort to additional ventilation measures: with the right choice of finishing material, the walls will continue to “breathe”. But this very finishing needs to be given special attention, otherwise you can ruin everything at the last stage.

You can insulate the walls of a wooden house using different types material:



Vapor barrier and waterproofing

How to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside? It is important to firmly remember one thing: the vapor barrier is laid on the side of warm air, and the waterproofing is on the side of cold air. Both the outer and inner material can be produced in the form of films and membranes. For a building made of wood, it is recommended to choose the latter option. The films practically do not let air through, and the membranes “breathe”.


Arrangement of steam, wind and moisture insulating layers

Before insulating an old wooden house from the outside, it is worth checking the condition of the walls, ceilings and roofs, and if necessary, reinforcing them and protecting them from mold and fungus. A combination of such measures will extend the life of the building. Also, the insulated structure must be cleaned of dirt and dust.