We warm the floor in a wooden house. Do-it-yourself floor insulation in a private house

Wooden house - eco-friendly and cozy. However, in order to be comfortable in our climate, the house must be properly insulated. Insulation work includes not only giving additional thickness to the walls and ceiling, but also floor insulation measures - a lot of heated air can leak through cracks and holes in the floor.

In a house with an insulated floor, you don’t look like socks in winter - you have to pull on felt boots or uggs. And in general, living in such a room is uncomfortable, especially if there are small children who love to crawl just on the floor. The importance of underfloor heating wooden house Undoubtedly - we will consider this issue in more detail in the article.

General requirements

What characteristics should a modern safe and high-quality insulation have?

Ease. Insulation should not weigh down the structure of the building.
Durability and reliability. Properly selected material is sure to become a reliable support for the whole house.
Security. Mandatory requirement. It is important that the selected material fully complies with all sanitary standards and is not toxic.
Easy to install. Installation of insulation should not cause difficulties.
Low thermal conductivity. This main characteristic material, since its main functional purpose is to keep heat in the house.
Density. The higher the density of the material, the better it will protect the home from the winter cold.

On the video - floor insulation in a wooden house:

How to insulate

What materials are best suited for floor insulation in a wooden house.

Sand or expanded clay

Protozoa natural materials that can be used for floor insulation. In addition, they are also the most inexpensive. These heaters are simply poured onto the rough flooring, thereby creating a dense layer between this flooring and the usual floor.

These materials are of natural origin, which means they are safe from an environmental point of view. In addition, they have a dry structure and absorb moisture well - this will help protect the floor from fungus and mold.

Minus - the ability to absorb moisture over time with these materials is lost, so we can not talk about the durability of these heaters.

It will also be interesting to learn about the technical characteristics and price of Isover insulation:

Sawdust

Wood sawdust is one of the inexpensive and environmentally friendly materials that can be used to insulate the floor. wooden house. It is elementary to simply lay wood sawdust - they are simply poured onto the subfloor, tamping a little - special construction tricks are not required here.

On the photo-expanded clay for warming a wooden house:

The downside is that sawdust is combustible and short-lived, and it will be somewhat better. But what are the proportions of the floor screed with sawdust and how to do it right, is described in great detail in this

Fiberglass

One of modern materials, but now it has been replaced by even more "advanced" mineral wool. Fiberglass is made from waste glass production, produced in the form of plates different sizes and thickness.

In the photo - fiberglass for insulation

The material is safe, environmentally friendly and free of toxic impurities. Fiberglass is non-flammable and fire resistant.

This is a dense material that has a low level of thermal conductivity. With its help, you can perfectly insulate your home. The disadvantage of the material is its high cost compared to others. But what are the characteristics of basalt wool and where it is used in construction, information will help to understand

Mineral wool

The most common type of heaters. It is applied to all surfaces of the house - both for a ceiling, and for walls, perfectly is suitable also for a floor. Mineral wool can be made from basalt, stone chips, slag, and other waste products from various industries.

In the photo - mineral wool for warming a wooden house

Cotton wool perfectly absorbs noise. This material is durable and reliable - its service life at the initial quality choice may take decades. Cotton wool is resistant to chemical, mechanical, and thermal effects. All these qualities make the material one of the most attractive heaters on the modern market. Quite often used.

The material reliably protects the house from the cold, as it has a low level of thermal conductivity. Also, cotton wool has a high level of water repellency, so it is suitable for homes that are in a humid climate. However, the material is afraid of direct dampness - in this case, it immediately loses its technical characteristics. Therefore, when insulating the floor with mineral wool, make sure that there are no water leaks in the basement.

But many are concerned about the question of whether they have mineral and. Mineral wool is safe, does not cause allergies. Cotton wool does not last too long - insulation with this material will cost less than with polystyrene foam or fiberglass boards.

The disadvantages include low vapor permeability. Due to the fact that cotton wool does not pass steam well, condensate can accumulate on its surface, which will freeze in winter. But it's because of . Therefore, laying mineral wool provides additional vapor barrier.

Penofol

It is one of the latest scientifically developed insulation materials. It is a rolled material, one side of which is made of foil. In addition to foil, the composition of the material also includes several layers of insulation, creating a kind of sandwich that perfectly retains heat in the room.

On the photo-penofol for a wooden floor in the house:

Penofol is good because it is very easy to install. Even a person who does not have special construction skills can roll a roll on the floor. Penofol perfectly withstands mechanical loads, shocks, endures high temperatures. The material is dense, so it can be laid in a thin layer. And here's how to do it right, is described in this article.

Penofol has excellent vapor permeability, so additional vapor barrier is not required. You can save a lot on this.

Insulation thickness

It should be noted that for each specific house this indicator is calculated individually - and the thickness of the material that is suitable for a house in the southern latitudes may differ radically from the thickness of the material for a northern cottage. Also, this calculation includes other features.

On the video, the thickness of the floor insulation in a wooden house:

What do these mysterious letters mean:

R is the level of thermal resistance of the structure. This level is different for each climatic zone. You can find it out from the application map, which is attached to the SNiP.
A - coefficient of the level of thermal conductivity of the insulation. Each type of insulating material has its own. You can see it on the packaging of the material. Some coefficients are also indicated in SNiP.

Using this formula, you can accurately determine how thick the insulation is suitable for you, so that you are guaranteed not to freeze and achieve the optimal temperature in the house.

Attention: if according to the formula it turns out that in your house the insulation layer should be thin, then experts recommend using polystyrene foam or rolled materials in this case. Such heaters can best protect the house, even if the layer is not too thick.

Manufacturers and prices

Let's find out what brands in the modern market of building materials offer customers best choice quality heaters.

Rockwool

One of the most widespread and demanded brands of heaters in the Russian and world market. It produces mainly basalt mineral insulation - for ceilings, floors and walls.

In the photo - floor insulation from Rockwool

This manufacturer produces truly high-quality materials. Rockwool insulation is very dense, non-flammable and durable. Available in slabs. The cost depends on the brand of the product, on average - 140-230 rubles per square meter.

euroisole

This brand produces mineral wool with high technical characteristics. Cotton wool Euroizol is non-combustible, withstands significant mechanical and chemical loads. Doesn't absorb moisture well. The cost of a cubic meter of this material is on average 4000 rubles.

In the photo - floor insulation from Euroizol

Linerock

This is a heater that has excellent vapor permeability, which means that the house will not look like a hermetically puttied room - normal air exchange will take place in it. This will create a favorable microclimate in the room.

In the photo, floor insulation from Lineroc

Linerock is available in slabs, suitable for walls and floors. The cost is 140-170 rubles per sq. m.

Isover

One of the most popular heaters on the Russian market. It is a quality glass wool with high operational characteristics. Izover is a very strong and durable material with a low degree of shrinkage. The cost is approximately 150 rubles per square meter.

In the photo, floor insulation from Izover

These are just a few of the variety of manufacturers, brands and brands on the market of modern building materials. On sale you can also find high-quality heaters of such brands as Ragos, TechnoNIKOL, Penoplex, Knauf and others. The choice depends on the characteristics of your climate and specifications building.

We reviewed the most popular and optimal floor insulation in a wooden house. Choosing suitable option for yourself, be sure to consider all its pros and cons - and then your home will be warm, safe and comfortable.

At present, environmentally friendly low-rise construction of houses from wood materials. Traditional log cabins made of rounded logs, cottages made of timber and even houses built from lightweight materials, their owners try to sheathe them with a board or clapboard. The same considerations, in order to create a microclimate closer to nature in a dwelling, are also guided by the choice of material for floors, giving preference to wood as a lighter, but sufficiently durable material.

Due to its natural origin, wood has a fairly low thermal conductivity, but in the Russian climate it still needs additional thermal insulation.

Options

There is a fairly large selection of fillers for insulation of interfloor ceilings, floors and ceilings. It can be difficult for an inexperienced builder to understand the properties of one or another insulation, objectively assess their advantages and disadvantages, and make the right choice.

The thing is that different heat-insulating materials are more applicable for some operating conditions and less suitable for others. Insulation of such specific premises as attic, underground, veranda requires a special approach, so it is worth studying all the properties of materials in order to produce the insulation device as efficiently as possible.

The following factors influence the choice of heat-insulating material:

Humidity. Constant indoor dampness (basements with open ground or insufficient foundation waterproofing, bathrooms, winter gardens or home greenhouses) or the likelihood of increasing humidity in it (balconies, rooms for drying clothes, bathrooms or steam rooms);
The purpose of the premises. Some types of materials contain certain resins or adhesives in their composition, which, for safety reasons, are not suitable for bedrooms or children's rooms.
Possibility of damage by rodents or insects, resistance to fungal attack. Some of the materials appeal to rodents, while others are repulsive to them.
Lower and upper temperature limits. Some thermal insulators are not resistant to severe frosts, while others lose their properties or are completely deformed and become unusable with significant heating.

It should be borne in mind that the heat-insulating material should “work in both directions” - not only protect the home from low temperatures in winter, but also maintain a comfortable environment for humans and pets in the summer heat.

Last but not least, the general condition of the house also affects the choice of insulation and the method of performing thermal insulation:

the age of the building - in an old house one method is required, in a newly built one - another;
foundation construction method - on bored or screw piles, on reinforced concrete blocks or on light foundations of small depth;
the number of storeys of the building and the site of work - whether the floor is insulated for the 1st or 2nd floor.

Bottom

In most cases, wooden houses are built with a high base, that is, the height of the subfloor allows insulation from below. The only exception may be the southern regions, where private houses are being built on stable soils using the technology of erecting low-rise buildings on shallow piles. But even there, in most cases, they try to comply with the traditional construction of houses with a high base.

Otherwise, if the subfloor is not high enough, to insulate the floor of the first floor, it will be necessary to remove the floor board to the log or other supporting structure.

Thus, it is possible to insulate from below with a sufficiently high subfloor for the first floor or insulation of the floor of the second floor, which, accordingly, is the ceiling for the first floor.

The performance of thermal insulation work in the underground is not much more complicated than the same work when insulating the floor of the second floor, but it has a number of features. Before starting work, you need to prepare the place and provide yourself with both the minimum comfort and the necessary level of security.

Most likely, there are no windows in the basement, so first of all you need to take care of sufficient lighting. If there are no stationary lamps, waterproof portable light sources on a flexible cord of sufficient length should be used.

For the same reason, in the underground space, there is extremely meager natural ventilation and sometimes it is completely absent. Unfortunately, many builders do not take this factor into account, which has an extremely negative impact on labor productivity. Exhaled carbon dioxide is heavier than other gases that make up atmospheric air, and therefore tends to the bottom.

And since the underground is the lowest point, carbon dioxide accumulates here, disrupts the full breathing of the worker, causes increased fatigue, drowsiness and, in especially severe cases, fainting. That's why it is very important to ensure sufficient supply ventilation from inside the house or from the street.

Of course, for the duration of the work in the basement, it is necessary to remove all things stored there, products and other objects that interfere with the free movement of the repairman.

If in the subfield open ground, if possible, it should be leveled and compacted. In the best case, if the budget allows, pour concrete at least 10 cm high with reinforcement, thereby significantly reducing the humidity in the underground space. This will significantly extend the service life of both the load-bearing elements of the basement and the wooden floor structures.

In the absence of natural passive ventilation of the subfloor, it will not be superfluous to make small (about 10 * 10 cm) ventilation vents in the outer walls. This will improve the microclimate in the cellar, additionally prevent an increase in humidity and, as a result, avoid mold damage to wooden structures.

Having finished preparatory work, first of all, you need to check the condition of the supporting elements - beams, logs, support columns.

Having identified areas of mold damage, carefully clean the surface with a spatula, sandpaper (popularly called “skin”), and then soak twice with antiseptic solutions. Then all accessible wooden elements should be abundantly impregnated with fire and bio-protective compositions and dried thoroughly.

If the foundation and plinth are built using concrete or brick (block), these areas need to be processed bituminous mastic to protect against moisture. If the works are carried out on days of high atmospheric humidity, it may be necessary to additionally dry them using heating equipment.

In some cases, a conventional household fan heater will suffice, but for large underground spaces, a building heat gun may be required. In no case do not use gas or petrol/diesel heat gun , it is permissible to use only electric, and that should not be left unattended for safety reasons.

For insulation from below, it is rather inconvenient to perform work with rolled heat-insulating materials, such as mineral wool or isolon. And even more so, bulk materials are not suitable for these purposes - sawdust, expanded clay and the like. Therefore, preference should be given to insulation in sheets - foam, foam, and so on.

First of all, it is necessary to fix the vapor barrier material, in most cases it is a polyethylene film. For underfloor conditions, it is preferable to choose a film with a thickness of 350 microns or more, if possible even denser.

It must be fixed, observing a full fit with a construction stapler along the logs (beams), taking into account all irregularities, bends and height differences, in places of sagging, additionally fasten along the floor boards. Fragments of the film must be laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm on one another, fasten the edges with a wide adhesive tape. Overlap on walls and vertical structures - at least 25 cm.

After that, you need to proceed with the installation of heat-insulating material in the intervals between the lags. If possible, fragments of the heat insulator should be cut so that there are no extra gaps between them and the lags, and the insulation itself does not fall out. If necessary, if the fragment does not hold the edges of the logs, it can be temporarily fixed with self-tapping screws, and the gap between its edges and the logs can be filled with mounting foam.

It should be remembered that the metal self-tapping screw has a very high thermal conductivity, therefore, after the building foam has hardened, they must all be removed.

Also, after the heat-insulating material has been laid over the entire surface of the ceiling, all inevitably occurring gaps must be filled with mounting foam, and after it has hardened, cut off the protruding excess.

After that, to ensure a more reliable retention of the heat-insulating material, it is necessary to fix it from below with a light filing. The most economical option is fiberboard sheets, but low grade plywood, edged boards and a number of other materials are also suitable. Do not use GKL ( drywall sheet) due to its high hygroscopicity and brittleness.

After completing the filing, you should fix another layer of vapor and waterproofing. You can also use plastic wrap. In this case, it is permissible to use isolon, foilizol and other composite materials.

Above

In this case, there are two options for insulation, radically different from one another:

without dismantling floor covering. Logs are laid on the old floor, insulation is placed between them and a new floor covering is placed on top.
With dismantling. In this case, the boards are marked, dismantled and taken out of the room where they are being repaired. The insulation is mounted between the existing joists, then the floor boards are installed back.

In the first case, the level of the floor rises - depending on the technology used, by a height of 10 to 25, and in some cases even 30 cm. This method is more cost-effective and reduces the usable volume of the room. But if the budget allows and the ceilings are high enough, this option can significantly reduce the time to complete the work.

In the second case, the floor height remains at the same level, but the builder will need more work and time.

Whichever option is chosen, before starting all work, all furniture must be removed from the room, the floor must be freed from carpet or other covering, and the baseboard must be removed.

First you need to check the condition of the floor boards. Elements damaged by rotting or affected by mold must be replaced, unstable elements must be fixed. On the old boards, you need to apply soil, antiseptic impregnations and dry, if necessary, use additional heat sources for this.

As with the inspection of the underground space, areas affected by the fungus, but retaining strength, must be cleaned to healthy wood and soaked abundantly with antiseptics.

Experienced builders recommend for these purposes to use a composition that is practical and completely safe for humans and pets, but so unloved by rodents and woodworm insects - a cool solution of ordinary table salt. For its preparation in hot water salt is added until it stops stirring.

The parts of the board previously cleaned from mold damage from the outside are thickly spilled with hot saline. Found gaps between the boards or cracks in them must be filled construction foam, top level with an oil-based or acrylic-based putty. After drying, lay a waterproofing material - a plastic film or penofol, glue the joints with a wide adhesive tape.

After that, the lags are laid. You should choose a timber from coniferous wood, the minimum section of which is 50 * 50mm. However, if the floor of the lower floor is insulated and at the same time enhanced thermal insulation is required, then, accordingly, a beam of a larger section is required.

Dried timber is preferred without visible deformations (without bends along any of the axes), chips and other damage. It is important to consider that between the insulation and the top board there should be a gap of 1 - 2 cm for natural air microcirculation and humidity compensation, so the height of the material for the log must be calculated with a margin.

As a frame, in addition to timber, it is permissible to use edged board thickness from 50 mm of the corresponding width, installed on the edge (the wider side will be located vertically) - in this case, a more rigid fastening of the boards to the floor is required. You may need metal corners with a shelf length of at least half the width of the board: for example, if a board with a section of 50 * 120 mm is selected for installation on an edge, then the length of the shelf metal corner must be at least 60 mm. The installation step of the corners is no more than 1 meter.

It is strongly not recommended to use unedged materials, since larvae or even adults of wood-boring insects can be preserved in wane (bark residues) on wood, and, unfortunately, it is not always possible to eliminate them with the help of bioprotective impregnations.

Start laying with the most high section, selected using the building level. The lag laying scheme is quite simple. The step must be maintained constant - from 50 to 60 cm. Horizontalness should be observed as far as possible, if necessary, placing rigid inserts resistant to moisture and fungus from below. Logs are attached to the floor with self-tapping screws in increments of 100-120 cm.

Heat-insulating material is placed in the space between the lags. When insulating from above, the choice is no longer limited to sheet insulation. In this case, it is possible to lay not boards on the floor, but plywood of sufficient thickness, then the floor will last even a little longer.

Do-it-yourself algorithm

Insulation from above with the dismantling of the floor boards implies that the floor boards have been checked, their condition is satisfactory and they do not need to be replaced.

Before starting the dismantling, the boards must be marked, indicating their order and orientation, since in the case of tongue-and-groove boards or tongue-and-groove fastening, an orientation error will violate their mutual fastening. The indication of the upper side will be the surface on which the marking is applied.

Dismantling must be done with the utmost care, without damaging the material. If the boards are screwed with self-tapping screws, they all need to be unscrewed and only then lifted one at a time, starting from the edge of the room.

Some difficulty in finding attachment points with self-tapping screws can create old paint if the floor has been painted. A simple way will help with this - using a magnet, possibly from an old speaker (column). Although today a more powerful neodymium magnet is relatively inexpensive. With its help, there is a self-tapping screw head, the paint is peeled off with a spatula and the self-tapping screw is unscrewed.

Dismantling is performed a little differently if the boards are nailed. In no case should you try to remove the nails with pliers or a nail puller, this will only damage the board. Nail heads are also easily located with a magnet, these places are marked with a marker.

The builders of the “old school” use an ax to dismantle the boards: they carefully wedge it between the lag and the board, without damaging either one or the other, and lift the edge of the board with a slight wiggle.

You can use a pry bar or a flat-tipped nail puller. There is no need to try to lift the entire board at once, wedging with an ax in only one place, the wood can split from this.

It is necessary to raise the board at each attachment point to a small height, then go along the board again, repeating this operation. When the edge is already noticeably raised, place an additional support under the tool and raise the entire board. Wherein it is important to ensure that the tongue or tongue of the board is not damaged.

Old nails must be knocked out with a hammer from the side of the point, and when the head of the nail rises above the board, remove it with tongs or pliers. Having removed the boards, the builder opens the logs and, if their condition is satisfactory, lays a plastic film using a construction stapler, fastens the joints with adhesive tape and mounts the heat-insulating material.

In both cases, with open logs, they should be impregnated with fire and bioprotective substances and dried thoroughly before laying the insulation.

If applicable bulk material- whether it be sawdust, wood concrete granules, expanded clay or any other, it is necessary to carefully level the layer of insulating material, avoiding too loose laying or, conversely, excessive compaction, fill in all irregularities and cracks. In the case of using rolled materials, you should try to cut in accordance with the geometry of the space between the lags, avoid tearing and crushing, and do not leave voids.

It should be remembered that many rolled heat-insulating materials lose their properties when wet and turn from a heat insulator into heat conductors. When working with sheet material you need to try to cut as accurately as possible, avoid bending sheets, fill gaps and voids with mounting foam.

At the end of the laying of the heat insulator, regardless of how hygroscopic the material is, it is necessary to lay a polyethylene or other moisture-proof film again, and only after that mount the boards.

Thermal insulation materials

Modern market offers a fairly wide selection of materials for thermal insulation, and inexperienced home master it can be difficult to choose the most suitable wood floor insulation.

In addition to the price, each type of material has its own advantages, and some have obvious disadvantages:

Penoplex. Sheet insulation, produced in a fairly wide range of thicknesses. Sufficiently durable and at the same time easily processed material with high heat-insulating characteristics, resistant to moisture and mechanical stress. For ease of installation, it is available in a tongue-and-groove version. Afraid of high temperatures and organic solvents. Unattractive to rodents and insects.
Styrofoam. Unlike the older brother - penoplex, it is softer, less resistant to moisture, and can crumble when cutting. At the same time, it has a much lower density and, as a result, a somewhat greater heat-insulating ability. Unlike penoplex and EPPS, it does not contain styrenes in its composition, that is, it is somewhat safer when used in living rooms.

EPPS- extruded polystyrene foam. In fact, this is the same penoplex, but with slight differences in production technology. In terms of characteristics, it is neither inferior nor superior to it.
Sawdust. This bulk material is very cheap, in some cases even free, as it is actually a waste product. One of the most environmentally friendly and safe materials for humans and pets. It should be remembered that sawdust cannot be laid in its pure form, otherwise the invasion of rodents and insects cannot be avoided. Sawdust must be mixed with cement or clay, while adding fire retardant, antiseptic and antifungal solutions. Sawdust is intolerant of dampness and, without proper processing and moisture insulation, is easily susceptible to rotting and mold damage. Over time, they become caked, losing their insulating qualities.
Expanded clay. Lightweight porous bulk material made of baked clay, which is why it is absolutely harmless. Resistant to high temperatures. Expanded clay does not have closed pores, which is why it is hygroscopic and needs high-quality waterproofing.

Penofol. It is a foamed polyethylene with aluminum foil applied on one side (less often on both sides). It has high moisture resistance, in terms of heat-insulating characteristics it is noticeably inferior to polystyrene foam. Very sensitive to even slight heat. It is not damaged by a fungus, it is not subject to rotting. When using, one feature should be taken into account - the foil side should be facing a warm room.
Izospan. quality material for steam and waterproofing. Used as a moisture barrier, it allows wooden structures"breathe", that is, does not interfere with air exchange with the environment. combustible Resistant to fungal attack.
Izolon. Foamed polyethylene without foil. Due to the peculiarities of production, it is not produced with a thickness of more than 7 mm, therefore, it does not have a heat insulator practical application. At the same time, it is a high-quality waterproofing material with some soundproofing properties. Sensitive to high temperatures, resistant to fungus, not damaged by rodents or insects.

Ecowool. Cellulose-based extrusion material. It is rarely used in private housing construction, as it requires specialized equipment and trained personnel for application. Unfortunately, it is not uncommon for a contractor to violate the formulation of the original composition in order to reduce the cost, as a result of which this material of high thermal insulation characteristics eventually begins to evaporate toxic substances into the environment.
polyurethane foam, like cellulose ecowool, requires specialized equipment for application. Not included in the composition harmful substances. During hardening, it forms closed pores, which excludes any evaporation of substances into the environment. On the part of the contractor is not subject to violation of the recipe. Frost- and heat-resistant, not subject to rotting, mold, fungal attack. It has high noise and heat insulating characteristics.
Mineral wool. One of the most undemanding and easy-to-use heat-insulating materials. It is afraid of moisture, but after drying it restores its properties. Thanks to the filling with mineral chips, it eliminates damage by rodents or insects, and the absence of organic fillers prevents rotting or mold damage. Easily wrinkled material, therefore requires careful handling

When choosing an insulating material, be sure to read the instructions for use attached to it. This document details the characteristics: thermal conductivity, allowable temperature range, humidity, and so on.

Typical mistakes

In some cases, builders, relying on the moisture resistance of the material declared by the manufacturer, neglect additional waterproofing. Condensation can form during sudden temperature changes in a high humidity environment, as well as when water flows directly from the room through cracks in the floor. When freezing, water causes cracking or rupture of pores in the material, which drastically reduces the heat-insulating qualities.

When insulating the floor of the first floor with foam, the material is sometimes left open. The fact is that mice often gnaw on foam plastic, taking away its crumbs and “insulating” their holes with it. This approach helps to preserve the vapor barrier layer and, if necessary, update the heat insulator sheets without any problems.

It happens that the builder will save on tape and leave the overlap of the plastic film loose. The moisture contained in the air penetrates through the edges of the film into the mineral wool and it becomes damp. That's why It is important to monitor compliance with the technology of work by employees.

Examples of successful designs

Consider the following:

The classic "pie" when insulated from above with the use of a screed under the finished floor.

Installation of the log "in a row", backfilling with expanded clay on top of the film, covered with plywood.

High-quality filling of gaps between lags and sheets with construction foam.
Laying slabs in the space between the beams on top of the isospan layer.

The use of wide boards mounted on the edge.
Double-sided mineral wool waterproofing.

P Before you think about how to insulate a wooden floor in a house, you need to decide exactly what problems you intend to solve with this, and at the same time think about what problems may arise as a result of this. Otherwise wooden floor insulation in the house can be not only unnecessary, but also harmful. Especially if the problem is solved floor insulation in a wooden house.

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The device and features of the operation of a wooden floor

To better understand what you have to deal with, let's look at the device of a wooden floor.

The basis for it are wooden bars, the so-called "logs" (these floors are sometimes called ""). Milled boards are stuffed onto the logs in a special way, forming a finishing coating, or the so-called “rough” floor from unplaned, or even uncut boards, artificial materials(plywood, chipboard, OSB). The draft floor serves as the basis for, and similar coatings.

An important factor in the normal operation of wooden floors is proper ventilation floor from below, that is, under the board covering and between the joists (ventilation of the space under the floor covering). If ventilation is insufficient, over time, due to high humidity, the tree is affected by the fungus, and the resulting microclimate contributes to the appearance of various insects, including woodworms.

For good air circulation on the floor boards, from below, they even arrange special gutters (see Fig. 1).

Places where you need to do the insulation of a wooden floor

Experience in building maintenance suggests that for effective thermal insulation, you must first protect the junction of the floors to the outer walls.

When it comes to floor insulation apartment building, often the entire surface requires insulation. For example, below there is an unheated basement, the temperature in which, although in winter, is maintained above zero (otherwise the sewerage and water supply would freeze), but lower than in the apartment. And even a difference of five degrees is already noticeable heat loss.

How to insulate a wooden floor exactly where it is needed will be prompted by observations, design standards and ordinary common sense.

As for how to insulate the floor in a wooden house, it’s more difficult. A wooden house can be chopped and frame, from a bar, log. Lined and not lined. All of these options are subject to change. Therefore, in the article we will try to give general principles, and in each specific case, on their basis, you need to think about what and how to do right here and now.

The insulation is poured or laid between the lags, and between the top of the insulation and the lower plane of the coating there must be at least 4-5 centimeters of a gap for normal ventilation of the subfloor.

Before laying the insulation, it is necessary to lay an insulating carpet that cuts off vaporous or liquid (osmotic) moisture (if the base is soil). When using mineral wool insulation, a hydrobarrier is additionally made from above. That is, a warm “pie” is created, into which it is difficult for moisture to penetrate, but from where it easily evaporates through a vapor-permeable waterproofing.

If foam plastics are used for insulation, steam and waterproofing is not done, and the seams between the individual plates, between the insulation and the logs (walls) are filled with mounting foam.

When insulating the floors of the first floor, when there is soil or a warm basement ceiling below, it is enough to lay the thermal insulation at the junction of the floor and external walls, making a belt 80-100 centimeters wide. The task of the belt is not to insulate the wall, but to insulate from the side of the soil freezing in winter period(see Fig. 2).

Tooling for floor insulation in a wooden house (wooden floor)

Warming a wooden floor in a house does not require a significant set of tools. Cutting foam insulation and films of vapor and waterproofing is carried out with a mounting knife and ordinary scissors. When working with mineral wool, a knife is also used (hard and semi-rigid plates), large scissors (soft roll insulation).

Of course, if an already assembled structure is insulated, carpentry tools are required for. However, this has a rather indirect relation to the issue of insulation.

Conclusion on the insulation of a wooden floor

So, we have considered how to insulate a wooden floor. As already mentioned, the question of the need for insulation arises in two cases:

New construction;
imperfections of the existing floor.

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Consider the main stages of work on thermal insulation:

Flooring by subfloor lag. This operation is carried out as repair work and the construction of a wooden house. The main advantage of this floor system is that there is no pressure on the insulation during the operation of the house. Any insulating material can be used for this. The subfloor is made from raw boards - inches (board thickness 25 mm). Before starting the installation of the board, treat with an antiseptic. The logs are fixed on brick posts, and the edges of the logs do not reach the walls closely. The distance between them is up to 1 meter, subfloor shields are attached to them from below. Attention should be paid to large gaps between the floor boards: they must be eliminated. Next, a waterproofing layer of the film is laid.
Insulation is laid in the lag openings. It can be both sheet and tiled, rolled.
Installation of vapor barrier, if necessary - another layer of waterproofing (when using mineral wool, glass wool). It can be impregnating, painting and pasted over. Pasted over - this is a cellophane film, the most common type. Also often used roofing material, isoplast. When vapor barrier layers of the film overlap each other. Joints and distances near walls and partitions are glued with special adhesive tape.
Floor laying and finishing. The gap between the vapor barrier and the floor is made mandatory for the air gap. Planed boards are used, about 5 mm thick, and a special lock is milled on them along the length of the board.

Scheme of wooden floor insulation in a wooden house

The choice of insulation

Consider all types of heaters:

Insulation with Penofol

For insulation between lags, it is better to use a combination of insulation. For example, first fill the space with mineral wool. All gaps are filled with foam or sealant. From above, with an overlap between the layers and on the walls of about 10 cm, Penofol is laid, foil up.

Insulator sheets are attached with a stapler or adhesive tape and chipboard is laid on top, on the logs. Leave a gap to the walls of about one and a half centimeters. It is necessary to remember about the gap between the insulation and the floor. Then the finished floor is laid. It is possible to make insulation only with Penofol without plates.

But there is another way to insulate with Penofol. We clean the old floor from bumps and lay the insulating layer. Then slats are attached to create a ventilation gap, and everything is also sewn up with chipboard and a clean floor. A very easy way to insulate.

Insulator sheets are fastened with a stapler or adhesive tape and chipboard is laid on top, on the logs

How to insulate the floor with foam

We lay a layer of waterproofing (polyethylene or roofing material) on the subfloor. Then we lay Penoplex sheets in logs without gaps. We fasten the edges together with adhesive tape or glue the sheets to the base. We lay a layer of vapor barrier on top, close it with a clean floor. When working, it is necessary to use the basic rules and recommendations - the overlap between the sheets of heat and vapor barrier should be at least 10 cm.

Floor insulation with foam

A feature of this type of insulation is that a screed is made on top of the expanded clay layer, and a wooden floor is attached to it. Recommendations - it is better to entrust the calculation of the expanded clay layer to a specialist. In a wooden house, it is better to use several sizes of expanded clay granules to maximize the filling of voids.

In a wooden house, it is better to use several sizes of expanded clay granules to maximize the filling of voids.

Mineral wool for insulation

It is better to use plates or mats. Rolls are inconvenient to work with and leave a lot of waste when sizing. The gaps between the plates should be well filled. Cold bridges can form here, which leads to heat loss. Expanded clay can be used as an additional layer. This will further increase the thermal insulation of the wooden floor in the house.

Everyone wants to live in a warm, comfortable and cozy home. But not all people at the initial stage of building houses think about thermal insulation. If it was decided to build a house from natural wood, then it will delight you with its high thermal insulation qualities, the natural smell of wood, and durability. Insulation of the floor from below in this is simply necessary.

There are many options for insulating floors. TO basic materials relate:

dry screed;
glass wool;

Let's look at them in more detail and talk about each option separately, as well as their advantages and disadvantages.

Attention: holding capital works in wooden buildings, when insulating walls and floors, it is only necessary after complete shrinkage of the building. As a rule, the shrinkage of a new house takes about a year. And if the house was built from, then shrinkage can be delayed for 5-7 years.

When choosing a material for insulation, it is necessary to take into account such characteristics as:

thermal conductivity;
moisture resistance;
thickness and weight;
environmental friendliness and safety;
fire resistance;
price.

The choice of material also depends on where and on what surface you place it: from below or above, from the basement side, to insulate the attic floor or inside the rooms.

It is best to consult qualified builders before making your final choice.

Warming with mineral wool

Most often, people resort to warming with mineral wool. This is explained:

high heat and sound insulation qualities;
long service life;
affordable cost;
resistance to high humidity and fire;
environmental friendliness.

Also, the advantages of mineral wool include its resistance to various types damage both mechanical and chemical. Mineral wool has a wide range of applications. But if you plan to use it to insulate the basement, where there is high humidity, then this is not the best the best way. For such premises, it is better to choose synthetic materials that are more resistant to moisture, such as polystyrene foam, polystyrene and others.

Foam insulation

As for the foam, this material also has a number of advantages and positive qualities. The special structure of the material provides low level thermal conductivity and vapor permeability.

Also foam is refractory, differs in reliability and resistance to mechanical and chemical damages. It has a high level of operation, simple and convenient to operate.

note

The foam is not breathable.

Insulation with sawdust

Sawdust is considered the traditional method of floor insulation in wooden buildings. They differ affordable and low cost and ease of use. But keep in mind that this material does not deteriorate after a few months of operation, it must be carefully prepared.

Important: Freshly sawn sawdust is not suitable for thermal insulation of floors.

They must be stored in a dry and well-ventilated area for at least 6 months before use. To prevent mice and other pests from getting into the sawdust, add slaked lime to them.

Sawdust is mixed with lime in a ratio of 1: 4 and poured into the space between the finishing and subfloor. To achieve the maximum effect, it is necessary to make a layer of at least 20 cm.

TO benefits the use of sawdust can be attributed to them:

naturalness and safety; low cost;
high thermal insulation qualities.

How to insulate with expanded clay

As for thermal insulation, this method is also widely used in our country. This material is: natural and safe, light, strong and durable. It perfectly absorbs moisture. To make the embankment more dense, it is necessary to apply 2 fractions of expanded clay: sand and gravel.

Styrofoam

Insulation with polystyrene foam is one of the most modern methods. This material is similar to foam, but it is more durable. Styrofoam does not pass not only moisture, but also steam. It is an excellent waterproofing agent. It is used not only for the insulation of wooden houses, but also for roads and concrete foundations.

Dry screed

Warming with a dry screed is applied only after the shrinkage process of the wood. The advantages of dry screed include:

excellent thermal insulation performance;
fire resistance;
ease of installation;
small thickness of the material;
excellent soundproof qualities.

Dry screed does not tolerate high humidity and under its influence is deformed. This does not affect the thermal insulation qualities of the material in any way, but it can lead to damage to the finish coating.

glass wool

As for glass wool insulation, the positive characteristics of this material include: incombustibility, ease of use and environmental safety.

But be aware glass wool shrinks, due to which the integrity of the heat-insulating layer may be violated.

Proper insulation along the lags

Any insulation in a private house with your own hands should be carried out in accordance with building codes and regulations. All thermal insulation works are complex and are aimed at preventing the ingress of cold air into the room.

Floor insulation is carried out only after all basement and basements . Lag insulation is one of the most common methods.

Before starting the workflow, you must:

Remove old flooring.
Logs are laid on a clean, dry and even surface, which are pre-treated with an antiseptic.
The insulation of your choice is placed between the lags.
The top is waterproofed.
Next, a board, plywood, fiberboard or chipboard is laid on the logs.

Arrangement of a double floor

This method is suitable for buildings with high ceilings:

Carry out the dismantling of old skirting boards, inspect the wooden supporting elements for damage and fill the gaps with construction foam.
Fix the wooden logs in increments of 60-90 cm.
Check the horizontal lag. If they deviated from the horizontal, use a planer to get rid of excess wood.
From above, the surface of the base must be covered with moisture-proof material.
Next, the insulation of your choice is laid between the lags.
Thermal insulation is covered with a waterproofing film.
Carry out the installation of flooring elements.
Lay the cover and attach the skirting boards.

Features of thermal insulation of the first floor

Because natural wood prone to deformation, cracks may form in the floor over time. Therefore, the following work needs to be done:

Remove old floor covering.
Inspect the log for rotting or deformation and replace rotten beams if necessary.
Fill or lay insulated.
Lay a vapor barrier.
Carry out the installation of the final floor covering.

A cake made of additional vapor and heat-insulating layers will provide good and reliable protection against condensate and drafts.

Features of thermal insulation of the second floor

To insulate interfloor floors in a wooden house, roll materials should be used.. They are lighter in weight and do not carry loads on structures. To create a heat-insulating cake on the second floor, you will need to do the following:

Put the heater on the base.
Fix the heat insulator to the wooden base.
Seal the seams with masking tape.
Apply top coat.

concrete floor insulation

To insulate a concrete floor, it is necessary to create multilayer construction. This process is carried out in several stages.