How to choose insulation for the walls of the house outside. External insulation for walls

How to choose the best insulation for the walls of the house outside. The most comfortable for residential premises are the temperature within 20-25ºС and humidity from 50 to 60%. To ensure such a microclimate in the house, it is necessary to take care of the thermal insulation of the walls. The optimal outside is selected taking into account the material of construction and must meet a number of requirements. The main criterion for any thermal insulation material is the coefficient of its thermal conductivity. The smaller this value, the better material prevents heat from escaping into the environment.

Fact! Through the walls, the dwelling loses up to 30% of heat.

How best to insulate the walls of the house

There are two ways to insulate a building - apply internal insulation of the premises or make insulation for the walls of the house from the outside. What is the best heater to use? The answer is hidden in a short expression - "dew point".

Thermal insulation of the room from the outside will ensure the correct location of the dew point

The dew point is the temperature at which condensation occurs. A point with this temperature can be located in the thickness of the wall, inside it or outside. Its coordinates depend on the physical properties of the wall materials, the thickness of their layers, as well as the external and internal temperature and humidity.

Important! The position of the dew point will be more optimal even in a completely uninsulated wall than in one that is only insulated from the inside.

The correct location of the dew point (outside the wall) can only be obtained by installing the insulation of the walls of the house from the outside, selected taking into account the properties of the material and the thermal calculation of the thickness.

The better to insulate the walls from the outside

Each of the types modern heaters for the walls of the house outside has its own characteristics and price range. But their main differences are:

low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
minimum values of water absorption and vapor permeability;
the ability to regulate the microclimate in the room;
high sound absorption rates;
ecological cleanliness;
fire resistance and fire safety;
resistance to chemical attack;

Comparative table of thermal conductivity of building materials

resistance to biological and mechanical influences (molds, insects, rodents);
strength and durability;
elasticity and lack of shrinkage;
low weight;
the possibility of installation without seams, joints, voids;
ability to fill complex and hard-to-reach areas;
ease of installation.

It is also important to take into account the way in which the consumer prefers to mount insulation for the walls of the house outside. Videos showing the possibility of independent work (as well as other manuals) in our time can be found enough.

The optimal insulation for walls is selected taking into account the material of construction

Water absorption and vapor permeability are taken into account to ensure maximum protection of the premises from moisture and are selected taking into account the characteristics of the climate and depending on the method of installation. Thermal conductivity is used to calculate the required thickness of the thermal insulation material. The most commonly used types of heaters are:

expanded polystyrene (polystyrene);
extruded polystyrene foam (epps, penoplex);
polyurethane foam;
mineral wool;
basalt heaters;
liquid insulation.

Styrofoam is a popular material for insulating the walls of a house from the outside.

Expanded polystyrene (styrofoam)

Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene) is one of the modern polymeric insulation for house walls and is used as such in almost all areas of the construction industry: civil and industrial. First of all, this material is distinguished by low coefficients of thermal conductivity (from 0.037 to 0.052 W/m*K, depending on the density) and water absorption, resistance to biological and chemical influences, and high soundproofing and windproof properties. It belongs to the group of environmentally friendly substances and is quite durable: its service life exceeds 50 years.

Fact! A layer of foam plastic with a thickness of 50 mm is equivalent to a wall of one and a half bricks in terms of the degree of heat retention.

Expanded polystyrene - easy to install and has a small weight

Other advantages include flexibility and light weight. This helps to reduce the cost of delivery and installation, ease of work, reduce the load on the walls, which, in turn, eliminates the need for additional strengthening of the foundation. The disadvantage of expanded polystyrene is its combustibility, however, the low price makes it possible to insulate all the walls of the house from the outside with polystyrene foam.

Extruded polystyrene foam (epps, penoplex)

Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) is one of the latest generation of thermal insulation materials. In its manufacture, graphite is used in the form of nanoparticles, which increases the strength and energy saving of the product.

Insulation of walls with foam plastic, followed by cladding with siding

The coefficient of thermal conductivity of the penoplex insulation ranges from 0.029 - 0.031 W / m * K. It is mildew resistant chemical substances, insects and rodents, and is an excellent sound insulator. Due to this, it is possible to use penoplex as a heater outside: for the walls of wooden houses and other buildings, and inside: thermal insulation of ceilings (especially when installing "warm" floors), basements, balconies and loggias.

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a type of plastic with a cellular foam structure. The mass of cells filled with air is 90% of the total weight of the product. Due to this, the value of the thermal conductivity coefficient of polyurethane foam is one of the lowest - from 0.023 to 0.041 W / m * K.

Liquid polyurethane foam creates an airtight coating with excellent vapor and waterproofing

Polyurethane foam has a high level of adhesion to all types of surfaces: concrete, brick, wood, metal - due to which an airtight coating is created with a guarantee of excellent vapor and waterproofing. A seamless method of application (using a compressor and a hose) and high elasticity make polyurethane foam an indispensable material for blown thermal insulation when insulating walls outside buildings of complex shapes and frame houses. Insulation for walls outside by blowing can be applied at temperatures up to 100ºС, the service life is up to 30 years.

Liquid polyurethane foam can be used as a blown insulation between the wall of the building and the cladding

The only disadvantage of the material is its high cost and the need to use expensive equipment for installation.

Mineral wool (basalt insulation, stone wool, glass wool)

Mineral wool is a product of processing slag (waste from the metallurgical industry) or rocks: basalt and dolomite. Differs in durability, incombustibility, durability, environmental friendliness, elasticity, high degree of sound absorption, ease of installation and low cost. The thermal conductivity of this material is in the range of 0.034 - 0.037 W / m * K.

Mineral wool is characterized by fire resistance, environmental friendliness, high degree of sound absorption and low cost.

For insulation works, mineral wool is used in the form of basalt slabs or in rolls with a wide range of sizes. Mineral wool is used as a heater for the walls of the house outside. The dimensions of the boards produced can be as follows:

1000 x 600 x 50 mm;
7000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
9000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
10000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
10000 x 1200 x 100 mm.

Expanded polystyrene plates can have docking grooves for ease of installation

Basalt insulation is used in buildings of any purpose, in particular - for insulation in the country, wooden houses and buildings made of timber, brick or foam blocks. It is possible to carry out work with this material at a temperature in the range from -60ºС to +220ºС, which is definitely convenient when mounted on walls from the outside. Insulation in the country, houses made of wood, brick or foam blocks, garages, warehouses and other buildings - this is an incomplete list of the possibilities for using mineral thermal insulation.

It is most preferable to use mineral wool to insulate the house from the outside, followed by siding.

It is most preferable to use mineral wool or basalt slabs when installing insulation for the walls of the house outside under the siding. It is also popular to use mineral wool (along with polyurethane foam) to create blown insulation. With this method, with the help of a compressor unit, the material is blown between the wall of the house and the finishing facade, which also serves as a formwork.

Liquid thermal insulation

Liquid heat-insulating materials can be called heaters of a new generation. It is possible to use them both for thermal insulation of metal parts (pipes or frames), and as a heater for houses made of foam blocks. Outside, on the walls, these ceramic multi-component substances look like acrylic paint. However, they differ from paint in the content of vacuumized voids (up to 80%), due to which they acquire the properties of a heat insulator.

Liquid heaters are similar to acrylic paint

Interesting! Liquid heaters have a record low coefficient of thermal conductivity (from 0.0011 to 0.0015 W / m * K). For comparison, the thermal conductivity of vacuum is 0.

With a liquid consistency, these materials do not require professional skills and sophisticated equipment for application to any surface: concrete, brick, metal, wood. They are applied using paint tools: brushes, rollers, airless spray guns - and fill all voids and crevices. After 6 hours of drying, a solid, highly resistant to mechanical stress coating is formed.

Fixing sheets of foam or expanded polystyrene is carried out with special fasteners such as "fungus"

Due to the low thermal conductivity, liquid insulation for the walls of the house helps to reduce heat loss, even if applied from the outside in a thin layer. They protect the surface from weather influences (operational temperature range - from -60 to + 260 ° C), solar radiation and precipitation, and metal parts from corrosion.

Interesting! Water absorption of most liquid heaters within 24 hours does not exceed 0.4% by weight.

Coating with liquid insulation is one of the effective ways prevent the formation of condensate and protect the industrial or residential premises from freezing, the development of all types of mold fungi.

Ways to insulate the walls of the house from the outside

Most modern heaters are universal and can be mounted outside the house on any walls: made of wood, timber, foam blocks, red or white brick; as well as for various types of exterior finishes: plaster, vinyl siding, decorative brick, stone facade slabs. After reviewing all the characteristics, you can choose the appropriate type of wall insulation. Outside, houses made of timber are insulated similarly to buildings made of other materials. Based on the variety of existing thermal insulation materials, for each type of wall in combination with its finish, the best installation option is selected:

Installation of insulation under plaster.
Three-layer non-ventilated wall.
Ventilated facade.

Examples of wall insulation followed by brick cladding

Installation of insulation under plaster

When installing insulation under plaster, for the walls of houses outside, polystyrene foam, basalt insulation boards, sheets of mineral wool or foam insulation are most often used as a heat insulator. The insulation is fixed on the walls of the house from the outside with the help of an adhesive solution and reinforced with a fiberglass reinforcing mesh. Special fasteners of the "fungus" type perform additional fixation of foam sheets or basalt insulation boards. For the walls of the house outside, plaster is used as a finish (the “wet facade” method) or facing materials.

Insulation system "wet facade"

Three-layer non-ventilated wall

A three-layer non-ventilated wall is formed by the walls of the house from the outside, insulation and facade decoration, laid out taking into account the air gap. This method is used when installing with finishing for the walls of the house outside under the brick. Heaters various kinds are used in this variant, including heat-insulating materials for forced-air installation. This method is used for the insulation of various buildings, both brick or foam concrete, and wooden or timber.

Non-ventilated facade with blown insulation

Facade finishing is carried out with facing slabs, decorative or building bricks.

Ventilated facade

Insulation from a heater for a ventilated facade is assembled from the following layers:

waterproofing;
insulation;
wind protection;
finishing facade cladding (lining, siding, panels).

The principle of arrangement of a ventilated facade

Installation of insulation as part of a ventilated facade is the most preferred option, since heat losses are minimized due to wind protection. Also, waterproofing provides additional protection of the surface of the walls from moisture. The use of a ventilated facade is possible with most types of buildings, materials and configurations of external walls and facade finishes. This option is most common when installing insulation for the walls of the house outside under the siding. Also, this installation method is the best for warming the outside walls of wooden houses: from a log or from a bar.

Insulated walls can be lined with material for every taste

Regardless of the variety and type of material used as a heat insulator, any of the mentioned installation options should cope with the main tasks - room insulation, wall waterproofing, protection from wind and drafts, as well as heat preservation. The undoubted advantage of most of the materials mentioned in the article is the ability to independently install them as insulation for the walls of the house from the outside. Photo and video clips, as well as other instructions, will be very useful in this case.

Surely the inhabitants apartment buildings a little jealous of those who live outside the city in a private building. Own living space, garden, clean air - everyone's dream. Alas, not everything is so simple, because the harsh Russian winters force you to carefully insulate your home to avoid freezing. This implies impressive investments and constant monitoring of the state of the heat-insulating material, from which residents of city houses are exempted.

Warming your home is preferable to using a dozen heaters - you can save money and make your home more comfortable. It is known that there are two ways of thermal insulation of a private building - from the outside and from the inside. Experienced experts recommend using both, but it is primarily worth taking care of external insulation. About what material is best suited for certain houses - further.

Requirements for thermal insulation material

The consumer is not in danger of a long search for good products - the market is saturated with goods from different manufacturers, so you can choose a decent heater in any hardware store. However, before buying, it is necessary to analyze the material in question for its physical and chemical properties. These include:

thermal conductivity coefficient (characterizes the ability of the insulation to conduct or retain air; the lower the indicator, the better - you do not have to use a thick layer of material);
moisture absorption coefficient (indicates the ability of the material to absorb water as a percentage by weight; the higher the indicator, the less durable the insulation);
density (based on the value, you can determine how much the material will make the house heavier);
resistance to fire (there are 4 classes of flammability; the first one (G1) is most preferable, which stops burning without an open source of fire);
environmental friendliness (not the most important indicator for consumers, and in vain - to preserve the health of family members, you should choose only natural material from natural components, does not emit impurities into the atmosphere and does not contain synthetic elements);
durability (the service life of the insulation set by the manufacturer);
hygroscopicity (the ability to absorb vapor from the air);
resistance to pests (insects, rodents, birds);
soundproofing properties;
ease of installation (insulation should be fixed quickly, with a minimum set of tools; also, a minimum amount of additional work should be done with it, such as cutting into even pieces).

It is difficult to choose a material that would have all the desirable qualities. For this reason, it is possible and necessary to carry out insulation outside and inside.

Advantages of external thermal insulation

The question of warming a private house from the outside arises in two cases - at the design stage of a building or when buying a finished one, but at the same time not having decent thermal insulation. The second situation is more common. What are the benefits of insulating a home from the outside? These include:

reduced wall deformability due to additional protection;
the facade perceives sharp temperature fluctuations; as a result, the service life of the building will be extended;
freedom in choosing the design of the facade, even when the building is erected;
the area of the interior remains unchanged; this allows you to carry out any kind of decoration, and living conditions will remain the same.

Ways of external insulation of the house

The need and benefits of thermal insulation from the outside are obvious; now the consumer should familiarize himself with the methods of insulation. There are three of these:

"well" arrangement of the material;
"wet" insulation with gluing;
ventilated facade.

In the first case, the insulation is placed inside the walls (for example, between layers of bricks). It turns out that it is "locked" between two levels. The method is effective, but it is impossible to implement it for an already built house.

In the second case, the insulation layer is fixed to the glue on the outside of the walls, then additionally attached to the dowels. Several types of coatings are applied on top - reinforcing, intermediate, decorative (finishing). A good way, only requires the intervention of specialists; Do-it-yourself wet wall insulation is impossible without experience.

The ventilated facade resembles a “well” masonry, only the outer layer is the facing material - drywall, tiles, siding, etc. Additionally, you will have to build a frame system for attaching heat insulator sheets.

The last method is the most popular, common and profitable. It will cost much less than "wet" insulation; in addition, even a beginner will be able to do the work with their own hands. Now the consumer faces the most difficult choice.

Existing materials can be divided into two large groups - organic (of natural origin) and inorganic (obtained using special materials and equipment).

Types and advantages of inorganic heaters

The first place in the list rightfully belongs to the most popular material - mineral wool. It is of three types - stone (basalt), glass and slag. Differing from each other only externally, varieties of mineral wool have the following qualities:

low coefficient of thermal conductivity (0.03 - 0.045);
density variations (from 20 to 200 kg/m3);
excellent soundproofing properties;
vapor permeability (mineral wool can "breathe");
fire resistance.

It is not without a number of disadvantages, including:

attraction for rodents and insectoids;
deterioration of thermal insulation characteristics by 50% when only 3-5% of the volume is wet;
never completely dries out.

In general, mineral wool is good, but it is highly undesirable to use it for cladding a house from the outside.

The second known external insulation is foam. Its advantages:

the heat conductivity coefficient is slightly lower than that of mineral wool (0.03 - 0.037);
costs less than other heaters;
easy;
density from 11 to 40 kg/m3.

fragility;
release of toxic substances during fire;
does not “breathe”, which forces residents to build additional supply and exhaust ventilation;
when directly wet, it absorbs moisture, becoming unusable.

Extruded polystyrene foam is not inferior in thermal conductivity to mineral wool and polystyrene. In addition, he:

does not absorb moisture;
convenient for installation, because it is produced in plates;
stronger than foam
almost does not pass air.

Flaws:

flammable;
when burned, it releases harmful substances.

There is another type of raw material used for external thermal insulation of the walls of the house - "warm" plasters. They are a mixture of balls (formed by glass, cement and hydrophobic additives). They “breathe”, isolate the room from moisture, do not burn, are not afraid of sunlight, and are easy to repair. Not very common on the market, however, experienced consumers have already appreciated this insulation.

Varieties and benefits of organic materials

For those who want to feel as close to nature as possible, it is recommended to use raw materials from natural ingredients. These include:

cork heaters - have a thermal insulation coefficient of 0.045 - 0.06; are crushed tree bark, compressed under the influence of hot steam and resin as a binding element; easy to cut, "breathe", do not form mold, non-toxic; today they are increasingly used to insulate walls from the outside);
cellulose wool (ecowool) - thermal conductivity from 0.032 to 0.038; are crushed cellulose, treated with flame retardants to improve fire-fighting properties; properties resemble cork materials, but absorb liquid better; do not withstand heavy loads and are not suitable for wall cladding;
hemp - supplied in plates, rolls, mats based on hemp fibers; does not hold the load well, although it is quite dense (20-60 kg / m3);
straw - an old way of thermal insulation of the walls of the house; breathable material treated with flame retardants to reduce flammability; today it is practically not used;
algae - an exotic method of sheathing exterior walls; density up to 80 kg / m3, do not burn, do not rot, do not arouse interest in rodents, are resistant to mold and fungus. Best suited for light walls.

Preferred insulation for home cladding

Each material has pros and cons. Based on the information presented above, it is possible to compile a symbolic rating of the highest quality materials for the walls of the house (the first is the most preferred, etc.). It is also worth considering the type of facade design.

For ventilated systems, cotton wool is better suited - mineral, cellulose. When laying wells, give preference to a material that does not allow moisture to pass through. This is extruded polystyrene foam. Plaster wall decoration goes well with insulation, whose density is more than 30 kg / m3. For example, with mineral wool, PPS, polystyrene, any organic material.

For light walls of a wooden house, breathable material is better suited - mineral wool, hemp, ecowool, cork insulation. The former is preferable, but costs a little more.

A country house should be of high quality sheathed with reliable material. The consumer can choose any of the previously discussed, guided by their wishes or financial capabilities. A competent approach to the acquisition of insulation is the key to a long service life of a cozy home.

Comfortable for living is the temperature in the range of 20-25 ° C and humidity from 50 to 60%. In order for the house to have such a microclimate, it is necessary to insulate the walls. The optimal insulation for the walls of the house is selected taking into account the material itself and must meet a number of requirements. The main criterion for any thermal insulation material is the coefficient of its thermal conductivity.

Each of the types of modern insulation for the walls of the house has its own characteristics and characteristics, as well as a price range. You need to choose the material taking into account the characteristics.

The main differences between heaters:

It is also important to consider the way in which the consumer prefers to install insulation for the walls of the house outside. The video shows the possibility of independent work.

Water absorption and vapor permeability are taken into account to ensure maximum protection of the entire room from moisture, are selected taking into account the climate and depending on the installation method. Thermal conductivity is used to calculate the required thickness of the thermal insulation material.

The most commonly used types of materials for wall insulation outside:

expanded polystyrene;
extruded polystyrene foam;
polyurethane foam;
mineral wool;
basalt heaters;
liquid thermal insulation, etc.

External wall insulation gives a much better effect than the insulation of the house from the inside. In addition to the main functions, insulation protects walls from atmospheric precipitation, mechanical damage, weathering, and this prolongs the life of the entire structure. Installing insulation does not require special knowledge or skills, and most homeowners can easily manage this task on their own. But in order to make everything as good as possible, you need to know what materials are available for the walls outside and how to fix them correctly.

Advantages of installing heaters to save heat:

When installing wall panels, protection against sudden changes in temperature in different periods of the year. Therefore, the scheme will protect residents from severe frosts, but also protect from heat in summer. When work is done well, cold bridge formation and heat loss are prevented.
Such a device does not affect the size of the building and its total area.
The insulation, installed outside, protects the interior from mold and dampness.
Performing isolation does not require a lot of time and money. Thermal insulation with the help of special materials has a sufficient level of protection for the building.
Improving appearance walls, increasing the level of sound insulation.

All benefits are the same for each material, but some require thicker layers or money to purchase and installation of large layers of thermal insulation.

The main task of wall insulation- create comfortable conditions while minimizing the cost of space heating.

First, you should consider the existing technology for thermal insulation of external walls.

Most often, they resort to external insulation of the already arched wall of the building. This approach is able to solve as much as possible all the main problems of thermal insulation and preservation of walls from freezing and related negative phenomena of damage, weakening, corrosion of building materials.

So, plaster with an insulated surface (it is often called "Thermal Coat") is quite difficult to independently perform if the owner of the house does not have stable plastering skills. The process is quite "dirty" and labor intensive, but the total cost of materials is usually less than other types.

There is also an "integrated approach" to such external wall insulation - this is the use of facade cladding panels, the design of which already provides a layer of thermal insulation. Plaster work in this case is not expected - after installation, only the seams between the tiles need to be sealed.

These materials, in fact, is a small air bubble in a polystyrene shell. Air does not move through them, and they perform the function of insulation well. Polystyrene has a low cost, which increases its popularity. Although he has almost no flaws. The main ones are only fragility and popularity in rats and mice.

But, as a thermal insulation of the walls outside, the foam is very good. It is quite suitable for further plastering or exterior decoration with artificial stone or wall panels.

E that material is expensive, but at the same time specifications much better. The most famous of these wall heaters can be safely called penoplex. This is a fairly durable material, although it has a porous structure. It is very convenient to plaster. Installation is carried out on special mastics, adhesive bases without the use of acetone, but the best option for exterior decoration, you can call a special plastic fastener.

For rodents and various pests, such a heater is of no interest. In addition, in its production, substances are used that are not amenable to fungal formations. There are no actual disadvantages, except for the high cost, for such a heater. Its weight is small, which allows one person to work on the insulation of the house from the outside without help.

Such material has been known for a long time and has found application not only as a thermal insulator. It is used as a filler in armchairs and sofas, car seats. Simply put, this is a foaming agent that is known to every person.

As a heater, it can only be used under panels. Its soft structure does not allow plastering. Although some homeowners, using it as a heater, can plaster the walls after closing it with plywood or chipboard.

Its huge disadvantage is instability to high temperatures. In addition, due to its chemical composition, this thermal dielectric, when ignited, releases very toxic substances that are easy to poison, unlike extruded polystyrene, which does not burn.

Many are now talking about the harm that phenol supposedly emits from this material. However, the opinions of scientists here are divided. Some say that this is an absolutely neutral material, while others say that it is very harmful to the body. It is worth limiting ourselves to finding out the facts - this material is used in our time in almost all furniture, in cars and even as pillow filler.

Mineral wool as a heat insulator

This insulation can be used inside building blocks or in external wall insulation, followed by siding or wall paneling. It is most widely used in the construction of ventilated facades and insulation. soft roof. Most often, for this purpose, its various slabs of a certain size with basalt insulation are used, the price of which is relatively low.

Mineral wool has a higher thermal conductivity and vapor permeability than previous versions. That is why it is the cheapest insulator. With its use of heat in the house is enough. A rather unpleasant moment can be noted that when working with mineral wool, the skin begins to itch. In addition, this is a rather fragile thermal insulation of the walls from the outside. But for insulation such as a ventilated facade, such an insulator is almost indispensable.

Outdoor application of ecological cotton wool

To isolate ecowool, it is also necessary to arrange a frame for wall cladding. First, the frame is made. Then a heater is applied to the wall, which consists of cellulose mixed in certain proportions with water. Ecowool is glued to the wall, forming a continuous seamless heat-insulating layer. After drying, the excess is removed, which is outside the outer plane of the frame. Then a crate is made, siding or similar material is laid.

Applying hot plaster

The positive qualities of the insulation process is the use of the desired layer of warm plaster. In some situations, you can do without the use of reinforcing mesh. Preliminary leveling of the surface is not required for these insulating materials. This can be done by the plastic layer itself.

Before applying the plaster, it is desirable to treat the outer surface with an abrasive material. It is convenient to do this with the help of electromechanical devices, but manual processing also allowed.

You need to know that the use of expanded polystyrene films is prohibited in rooms with increased requirements for fire safety, for example, in hospitals, kindergartens, etc. In this case, it is necessary to use warm plasters.

This technique, among other things, has several disadvantages:

such a surface cannot be finished quickly;
before the layer of the wall should be treated with a primer;
work is performed only on a dry wall;
the material has poor soundproofing properties;
for warm plaster you need a solid base.

The term "liquid insulation" for walls and other structures is just slang among consumers. This material is somewhat different from others.

The material is putty or paint, which includes:

hollow microgranules in the form of spheres (0.02–0.1 mm in diameter) made of ceramics, glass, polymers;
microporous particles of titanium dioxide;
more often a binder, acrylic or latex, is used.

Since the consistency of the material is liquid, it is applied on treated surfaces in the usual way: using a brush, roller or spray. At the same time, a thin film is formed on the surface - at least 1 mm. And this is enough for thermal protection.

But why does such a thin coating create an effect for warming? Here it is necessary to understand how heat flows through the walls of the house:

Today, liquid insulation manufacturers offer various compositions that are used for various building structures. Since the materials for wall insulation are dismantled from the outside, it is necessary to choose a mastic intended for application to the facades of the building. The name "Facade" is necessarily present in its name. For example, Korund-Facade. Although many of the universal Thermocol, for example, can be used for thermal insulation of the outer walls of buildings.

Criteria for the selection of insulation for the exterior walls of the house

The main indicator by which to make a choice is the thermal conductivity of the material. The smaller it is, the better it will be.

The second criterion is the hygroscopicity of the material. This property is referred to as - "absorbs moisture." The fact is that moist air vapors penetrating inside the insulation begin to turn into ice at low temperatures, which will lead to the loss of all the characteristics of the heat-insulating material. They learned to deal with this by closing the heating layer on both sides of the steam and waterproofing films. But these are the following material costs. Although in some cases this cannot be done.

The third criterion is the fortress. The outer side of the wall is the part where various loads, more often mechanical ones, pass.

The fourth selection rule is the price of the product. There is a fairly wide line here, in which there is a very cheap materials and very expensive. Of course, quality comes at a price. But there are offers on the market in which the ratio of price and quality is in the optimal range. Therefore, you should understand all the proposed insulation and choose not the most expensive, but with good technical and operational characteristics.

Now all the above types of insulation for walls outside the house are sold, which are widely used in cottages, country cottages and high-rise buildings. All of them differ from each other in price and characteristics. There are a huge number of insulating materials on the market, and the choice is up to the consumer.

For a comfortable stay in your home in winter, many perform its external insulation. In addition, it improves the thermal insulation of the room in the summer, prevents overheating of the walls. What is better to use insulation for the walls of the house outside, their features will tell the article.

Before making the insulation of external walls, it is worth getting acquainted with its characteristics and main advantages.

Insulation of the walls of a private house from the outside allows:

Save usable indoor space.
Protect your home from freezing.
To increase the overall operational resource of the building, without additional load on its structure and on the foundation.
Improve frost protection. This is due to the fact that the insulation of the outer wall of the house allows you to shift the point of condensation towards the heat-insulating layer. There is no risk of mold and mildew formation.
Do not cool the walls insulated from the outside, and long time keep heat inside the building, without its loss.
Insulators for the exterior walls of the house from the outside quickly lose moisture, without changing their basic characteristics.
Provide high sound insulation of the room.

Before you insulate the walls of the house from the outside, you need to pay attention to such characteristics of the material as:

Steam and moisture permeability.
The degree of absorption of air and moisture.
Thermal conductivity.
Resistant to temperature changes.
biological stability.
Resistance to chemicals.
Temperature retention coefficient.
No shrinkage and aesthetics.
Light weight.
Ease of installation with your own hands, so that there are no butt seams.

Some characteristics of the most popular materials for thermal insulation of walls from the outside are presented in the table:

Tip: In any case, the external thermal insulation of the walls of the house should create a rational warm structure. In this case, all external factors should be taken into account: rain, snow, a strong temperature drop, which the insulation must withstand.

Types of materials

When choosing insulation for the wall of the house, first of all, the material of the building should be taken into account.

The most popular types of heaters and their characteristics are presented in the table:

Advantages	Flaws

Excellent thermal insulation properties. Small weight and small size. Almost does not absorb moisture. Durability. Affordable price. Quick and easy installation.	Almost does not pass air. It is exposed to the negative effects of paint and varnish coatings made on the basis of nitro-paints - it gradually begins to break down.

Frost resistance. Low thermal conductivity. Strength. Durability. Does not absorb moisture. Quick and easy installation.	The negative effect of high temperatures - the material begins to melt. No resistance to rodent attacks. High price.

The absence of CFCs makes the material environmentally friendly. Lowest moisture absorption. Durability. Special additives increase fire resistance. Very light.	Poor resistance to ultraviolet radiation. Do not work or leave on cold surfaces.

Ecological cleanliness and harmlessness. Fire resistance. Repels moisture. Lets air through. budget cost.	If installed incorrectly, the material may deform over time. Does not tolerate significant temperature changes.

Ecological purity. Only natural raw materials are used for manufacturing. Easy to cut and install. The service life of the structure is up to 50 years. The air layer provides low thermal conductivity. Moisture absorption no more than 5%. Passes steam well. Does not burn. High sound insulation. In contact with the skin, does not cause irritation. Good sound absorption.	High price. When working with basalt wool, a lot of dust is generated, which requires respiratory protection. There is no tightness of the seams after the installation of the material. Cannot be used to insulate the basement.

You can get a very thin vapor-permeable coating with protective functions from snow, rain, frost, which significantly increases the service life. The walls "breathe". Inside the room, the most comfortable microclimate for a person is maintained. Good adhesion to all materials used for wall construction.	The composition of the material consists of 80% liquid thermal insulation consisting of microspheres with rarefied air, almost with a vacuum, and only 20% are binder components, the quality of which determines the adhesion of the material to the wall surface. Poor quality insulation contributes to the rapid loss of its characteristics. In this case, the microspheres begin to collapse inwards due to the higher atmospheric pressure. Poor-quality binders contribute to flaking and peeling of the material from the walls. Tip: To avoid negative phenomena, it is necessary to purchase coatings only from manufacturers with good positive reviews.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation layer

Of great importance for the quality insulation of the building is the correct heat calculation of the outer wall of a residential building.

This should take into account:

Insulation thickness. Too small can cause freezing of the walls, transfer the “dew point” inside the room. This will lead to an excess of moisture in the house, the formation of condensation on the walls. If the thickness of the heat-insulating layer is increased more than necessary, it will not bring significant improvements, but will only add additional financial costs.

Tip: Only a correctly calculated thickness of thermal insulation for the house will save money and keep the house in a normal thermal regime.

Thermal resistance of the material for insulation - R. This is a coefficient representing: the temperature difference along the edges of the insulation / by the amount of heat flow going through it. This value reflects the properties of the insulation and is determined by: material density / thermal conductivity.

With an increase in R, the thermal insulation properties of the material improve. Calculation formula: R = wall thickness in meters / coefficient inherent in the thermal insulation of a particular material.

Meaning R can be selected for different climatic zones according to the relevant tables.

For example, the calculation of house insulation with polystyrene foam 100 mm thick, with walls made of silicate brick, whose thickness is 51 centimeters.

For this:

The coefficients of heat resistance R for the wall and foam are calculated.
The two obtained values are added.
Wall thickness 0.51 meters / for the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the wall material 0.87 W / (m ° C) \u003d 0.58 (m 2 ° C) / W.
It turned out the heat transfer resistance of the brickwork wall R = 0.58 (m 2 ° C) / W.
The R value is calculated for foam plastic 0.1 meters thick.
It is divided by the coefficient of thermal conductivity corresponding to the foam, equal to 0.043 W / (m ° C).
The result was R = 0.1 / 0.043 = 2.32 (m 2 ° C) / W.
The obtained coefficients R for silicate brick and foam plastic are added up: R \u003d 0.58 + 2.32 \u003d 2.9 (m 2 ° C) / W.
The value is compared with the required values of the coefficient for external walls in different climatic zones.

Analyzing the result, we can conclude that it is necessary to insulate the building with a heater with a thickness of at least 10 centimeters.

External wall insulation

After choosing the material, before insulating the outer wall of the house, you need to prepare the surfaces for further work.

For this:

If necessary, the remaining layer of plaster is removed to the very base. The result is a flat surface.
If there are significant level differences on the wall, recesses or protrusions of more than one centimeter, they are sealed with mortar or combed.
The surface is cleaned from dirt and dust.
The wall is primed. The primer is best used with deep penetration.
To obtain an even layer of insulation, a system of beacons and plumb lines is pre-mounted. These elements determine the plane of the outer edge of the insulation, facilitating installation.
On the anchors or screws installed along the upper edge of the wall, threads of great strength are tied and lowered with a plumb line to the bottom.
Tied with horizontal threads.
According to the obtained control grid, you can navigate when installing a heat insulator or frame.
Further technology for insulating the outer walls of the house for each material is somewhat different.

In order for all processes to be performed correctly, it is better to first get acquainted with the video in this article.

Foam insulation

The work instructions are as follows:

After surface preparation, window sills are installed outside and slopes are insulated.
The ebbs are attached to the window itself or to an additional profile.
The window sill is taken out taking into account the insulation of the wall - one centimeter is added to the thickness of the insulation. In this case, the window sill will protrude 4 centimeters beyond the finished wall.

The starting profile is mounted from below, which will give reliability of fixing the insulation from below.
The mixture is applied to the wall.

Tip: Do not apply the solution to the foam. Otherwise, when gluing parts to the wall, voids may form between the even plane of the foam and the uneven wall.

The solution is distributed along the perimeter of the sheet in a discontinuous strip. This strip, when the foam sheets and the wall come into contact, will diverge under the edges of adjacent sheets, which will increase the strength of the joints.
A sheet is glued to the mixture, carefully exposed and pressed with force.

Tip: Laying foam on the wall should be done in a checkerboard pattern.

Three days after gluing the sheets, they are nailed to the wall with special fungi or caps with a plastic sleeve.

After attaching the fungus, a plastic or metal nail is hammered into its sleeve.
About 5 fungi should be placed on the sheet, stepping back from the corner of the wall about 10 centimeters.
The joints between the foam sheets are carefully examined for gaps. If they are more than 5 millimeters, they should be filled with foam.
Strips of insulation are additionally inserted into gaps over 1.5 centimeters and blown with foam.

After 5 hours, the protruding parts are cut off with a knife.
The joints are corrected with a foam grater.
All butt joints and fungal caps are puttied with an adhesive mixture.
Mesh is glued to the corners and walls.

The mixture is rubbed with sandpaper.
The facade is primed.
The facade walls are being finished.

Warming with mineral wool

Before you insulate the wall of the house outside with mineral wool, you need to properly prepare the walls.

For this:

Wooden structures are impregnated with an antiseptic to prevent damage to the log house by microorganisms.
Damaged sections of the walls with rot, fungus or mold are carefully cleaned and impregnated with appropriate solutions.
Walls made of brick and foam concrete are freed from peeling paint and plaster.

Wet walls are thoroughly dried.
Slopes and platbands of windows are dismantled.
All decorative and fasteners that can harm the vapor barrier and insulation are removed from the walls.

A layer of a vapor-permeable membrane is laid under the insulation. In this case, the film is located with a vapor-permeable side to the wall of the house, and smooth - to the insulation. The role of the membrane is to ensure the removal of water vapor from the surfaces of the walls of the building through the insulation.

Mounted with screws or dowels guides wooden slats, or a metal profile for fixing drywall. The step between the rails is taken 2 centimeters less than the width of the insulation elements used, and the thickness of the rails is equal to the thickness of the insulation.
Reiki are fixed from the corner of the house.

Tip: When using insulation in the form of mats, you should additionally fix a horizontal rail at the bottom of the wall to install the lower insulation mat.

Mats or rolls of mineral wool are laid between the guide rails: mats are laid from below, and rolls are laid from above, fixing the materials on the wall between the rails by surprise, or using dowels with a wide head.
To brick or block surfaces board material fastened without a gap on a special glue, for a snug fit of the insulation.
First, whole pieces of insulation are laid, then the remaining areas around the door and window openings are filled.

Another layer of film is laid for wind protection and waterproofing.
The material must be vapor-permeable, for unhindered removal of moisture from the insulation to the outside.
The film is attached to the rails with staples without tension.
The entire layer of insulation and vapor barrier is additionally fixed to the wall with dowels with a wide cap.
For better waterproofing, the attachment points are glued with metallized tape.

An important stage of wall insulation is the installation of a ventilated facade. In this case, the ventilation gap should be more than 5 centimeters. To do this, additional counter rails are stuffed onto the guides, and a ventilated facade is mounted on them. It can be: siding, block house or other materials.

With external wall insulation, their thickness increases, which will require the installation of new window slopes, window sills, platbands and trim elements.

External insulation of building walls with mineral wool is one of the most popular methods used for thermal insulation of buildings.

These are just some of the recommendations on how to properly insulate the walls outside the house, from the most used types of material. When performing work, you need to be guided by your desires and capabilities, and most importantly, strictly follow the rules for installing a particular insulation.

A very real situation is that an efficient heating system has been installed and launched in a private house, but it is not possible to achieve comfortable living conditions if the building itself does not have good thermal insulation. The consumption of any energy carriers in such a situation jumps to completely unthinkable limits, but the generated heat is completely uselessly spent on “heating the street”.

All the main elements and structures of the building must be insulated. But against the general background, external walls are leading in terms of heat loss, and it is necessary to think about their reliable thermal insulation in the first place. Insulators for the exterior walls of the house in our time are on sale in a very wide range, and you need to be able to navigate this variety, since not all materials are equally good for certain conditions.

The main ways to insulate the external walls of the house

The main task of wall insulation is to bring the total value of their resistance to heat transfer to the calculated indicator, which is determined for a given area. We will definitely dwell on the calculation method a little lower, after considering the physical and performance characteristics main types of insulation. And for starters, you should consider the existing technologies for thermal insulation of external walls.

Most often, they resort to external insulation of already erected walls of the building. This approach is able to solve to the maximum extent all the main problems of thermal insulation and saving walls from freezing and the accompanying negative phenomena of damage, dampness, erosion. building material.

There are a lot of ways in external insulation, but in private construction they most often resort to two technologies.

- The first is the plastering of the walls over the thermal insulation layer.

1 - the outer wall of the building.

2 - mounting adhesive, on which thermal insulation material (pos. 3) is attached closely, without gaps. Reliable fixation, in addition, is provided by special dowels - "fungi" (pos. 4).

5 - base plaster layer with fiberglass mesh reinforcement inside (pos. 6).

7 - layer. Facade paint can also be used.

- The second is the lining of walls insulated from the outside with decorative materials (siding, panels, " block house", etc.) according to the ventilated facade system.

1 - the main wall of the house.

2 - frame ( crate). Can be performed from wooden beam or from galvanized metal profiles.

3 - slabs (blocks, mats) of thermal insulation material laid between the guides of the lathing.

4 - waterproofing diffuse steam-permeable a membrane that simultaneously performs the role of wind protection.

5 - a structural element of the frame (in this case - a counter-lattice rail), creating an air ventilated gap with a thickness of about 30 ÷ 60 mm.

6 - external decorative cladding of the facade.

Each of the methods has its own advantages and disadvantages.

So, a plastered insulated surface (it is often called a “thermal fur coat”) is quite difficult to independently perform if the owner of the house does not have stable plastering skills. This process is quite "dirty" and laborious, but in terms of the total cost of materials, such insulation is usually cheaper.

There is also an "integrated approach" to such external wall insulation - this is the use of facing facade panels, the design of which already provides for a layer of thermal insulation. Plastering works in this case, it is not expected - after installation, it remains only to fill the seams between the tiles.

Installation of a ventilated facade practically does not involve "wet" work. But the total labor costs are very significant, and the cost of the entire set of materials will be very considerable. But on the other hand, both the insulating qualities and the effectiveness of protecting the walls from various external influences in this case are significantly higher.

, from the premises.

This approach to thermal insulation of walls causes a lot of criticism. Here - and a significant loss of living space, and the difficulty in creating a full-fledged insulated layer without "cold bridges" - they usually remain in the area where the walls adjoin the floors and ceilings, and the violation of the optimal balance of humidity and temperature in such a "pie".

Of course, the location of thermal insulation on the inner surface sometimes becomes almost the only accessible way insulate the walls, but whenever possible, it is still worth giving preference to external insulation.

Is it worth it to insulate the walls from the inside?

All the shortcomings and, without exaggeration, the dangers are described in great detail in a special publication of our portal.

Wall insulation by creating a "sandwich structure" »

Typically, this technology of insulation of external walls is used even during the construction of the building. Several different approaches can also be used here.

A. The walls are laid out according to the “well” principle, and as they rise into the resulting cavity, dry or liquid (foaming and solidifying) is poured thermal insulator. This method has been used by architects for a long time, when they used natural materials- dry leaves and needles, sawdust, discarded wool residues, etc. Nowadays, of course, special thermal insulation materials adapted for such use are more often used.

Alternatively, large walls can be used for masonry walls. with large cavities during construction, they are immediately filled with heat-insulating material (expanded clay, vermiculite, perlite sand, etc.)

B. We will omit another option both during the initial construction of the house, and, if necessary, create thermal insulation in the already erected earlier building. The bottom line is that the main wall is insulated with one or another material, which is then closed with brickwork in one or ½ bricks.

Usually, in such cases, the external masonry is done "for jointing" and becomes the finishing cladding of the facade.

A significant drawback of this method, if you have to perform such insulation in an already erected house, is that it is necessary to expand and strengthen the foundation, since the wall thickness becomes significantly larger, and the load from additional brick masonry will increase noticeably.

V. An insulated multilayer structure is also obtained when using polystyrene fixed formwork for the construction of walls.

The blocks of such polystyrene formwork are somewhat reminiscent of the well-known children's designer "LEGO" - they have spikes and grooves for quick assembly of the wall structure, into which, as it rises, a reinforcing belt is installed and concrete mortar is poured. The result is reinforced concrete walls, immediately having two - outer and inner, insulating layers. Then, along the front side of the wall, you can make a thin brickwork, tiled cladding or just a plaster coating. Almost all types of finishes are also applicable inside.

This technology is gaining popularity, although, in fairness, it should be noted that she has a lot of opponents. The main arguments are the shortcomings of expanded polystyrene in terms of environmental and fire safety. There are certain problems with the vapor permeability of the walls and the dew point shift towards the premises due to the layer internal insulation. But apparently everyone agrees that the walls really get reliable thermal insulation.

What requirements should the insulation of external walls still meet?

It is clear that the thermal insulation layer on the wall should first of all reduce the heat loss of the building to an acceptable minimum. But, performing its main function, it should not allow negative aspects - a threat to the health of people living in the house, increased fire danger, the spread of pathogenic microflora, dampening of structures with the onset of destructive processes in the wall material, etc.

So, from the point of view of environmental safety, synthetic-based heaters raise a lot of questions. If you read the brochures of manufacturers, you can almost always find assurances about the absence of any kind of threat. Nevertheless, practice shows that most foamed polymers tend to decompose over time, and decomposition products are not always harmless.

The situation with flammability looks even more alarming - a low flammability class (G1 or G2) does not at all indicate the complete safety of the material. But more often, it’s not even the transfer of an open flame that is terrible (modern materials are mostly damped), but combustion products. The sad story shows that it is toxic smoke poisoning resulting from the combustion of, for example, polystyrene foam that most often causes human casualties. And you should think carefully about what the owner risks by arranging, for example, such thermal insulation indoors.

A terrible picture - burning of the insulated facade

The specific advantages and disadvantages of the main thermal insulation materials will be discussed in more detail in the corresponding section of the article.

The next important factor that must be taken into account when planning insulation. The thermal insulation of the walls should bring the “dew point” as close as possible to the outer surface of the wall, and ideally to the outer layer of the insulation material.

The "dew point" is a non-linearly changing boundary in the wall "pie", at which the transition of water from one state of aggregation to another takes place - steam turns into liquid condensate. And the accumulation of moisture is the wetting of the walls, the destruction of the building material, the swelling and loss of the qualities of the insulation, a direct path to the formation and development of foci of mold or fungus, insect nests, etc.

Where does water vapor come from in the wall? Yes, it's very simple - even in the course of normal life, a person with breathing releases at least 100 g of moisture per hour. Add here wet cleaning, washing and drying clothes, taking baths or showers, cooking or just boiling water. It turns out that in the cold season, the pressure of saturated vapors in the room is always much higher than in the open air. And if measures are not taken in the house for effective air ventilation, moisture seeks its way through building structures, including through walls.

This is a completely normal process., which will not do any harm if the insulation is planned and implemented correctly. But in cases where the "dew point" is shifted towards the rooms ( this is a common defect wall insulation from the inside), the balance with may be disturbed, and the wall with insulation will begin to be saturated with moisture.

In order to minimize or completely eliminate the consequences of the formation of condensate, one should adhere to the rule - the vapor permeability of the wall "pie", ideally, should increase from layer to layer in the direction of their placement outside. Then, with natural evaporation, excess moisture will come out into the atmosphere.

For example, the table below shows the values steam-permeable the ability of basic construction, insulation and finishing materials. This should help with the initial planning of thermal insulation.

Material	Vapor permeability coefficient, mg/(mhPa)
Reinforced concrete	0.03
Concrete	0.03
Cement-sand mortar (or plaster)	0.09
Cement-sand-lime mortar (or plaster)	0,098
Lime-sand mortar with lime (or plaster)	0.12
Expanded clay concrete, density 800 kg/m3	0.19
Clay brick, masonry	0.11
Brick, silicate, masonry	0.11
Hollow ceramic brick (1400 kg/m3 gross)	0.14
Hollow ceramic brick (1000 kg/m3 gross)	0.17
Large format ceramic block (warm ceramic)	0.14
Foam concrete and aerated concrete, density 800 kg/m3	0.140
Fiberboard and wood concrete slabs, 500-450 kg/m3	0,11
Arbolit, 600 kg/m3	0.18
Granite, gneiss, basalt	0,008
Marble	0,008
Limestone, 1600 kg/m3	0.09
Limestone, 1400 kg/m3	0.11
Pine, spruce across the grain	0.06
Pine, spruce along the grain	0.32
Oak across the grain	0.05
Oak along the grain	0.3
Plywood	0.02
Chipboard and fiberboard, 600 kg/m3	0.13
Tow	0.49
Drywall	0,075
Gypsum slabs (gypsum boards), 1350 kg/m3	0,098
Gypsum slabs (gypsum boards), 1100 kg/m3	0.11
Mineral wool stone, depending on the density 0.3 ÷ 0.37	0.3 ÷ 0.37
Mineral wool glass, depending on the density	0.5 ÷ 0.54
Expanded polystyrene extruded (EPPS, XPS)	0,005 ; 0,013; 0,004
Expanded polystyrene (foam plastic), plate, density from 10 to 38 kg/m3	0.05
Cellulose ecowool (depending on density)	0.30 ÷ 0.67
Polyurethane foam, at any density	0.05
Expanded clay bulk - gravel, depending on density	0.21 ÷ 0.27
Sand	0.17
Bitumen	0,008
Ruberoid, glassine	0 - 0,001
Polyethylene	0.00002 (virtually impenetrable)
Linoleum PVC	2E-3
Steel	0
Aluminum	0
Copper	0
Glass	0
Block foam glass	0 (rarely 0.02)
Bulk foam glass	0.02 ÷ 0.03
Bulk foam glass, density 200 kg/m3	0.03
Glazed ceramic tile (tile)	≈ 0
OSB (OSB-3, OSB-4)	0,0033-0,0040

For example, let's look at the diagram:

1 - the main wall of the building;

2 - layer of thermal insulation material;

3 - a layer of exterior decoration of the facade.

Blue wide arrows - the direction of diffusion of water vapor from the room towards the street.

On a fragment "a" shown to a mill that is very likely to always remain raw. The vapor permeability of the materials used decreases in the direction of the street, and the free diffusion of vapor will be very limited, if not stopped at all.

Fragment "b"- insulated and finished wall, in which the principle of increase is observed steam-permeable the ability of the layers - excess moisture evaporates freely into the atmosphere.

Of course, not in all cases, for one reason or another, it is possible to achieve such ideal conditions. In such situations, it is necessary to try to provide for the release of moisture to the maximum extent, but if the external wall decoration is planned with a material whose vapor permeability is close to zero, then it would be best to mount the so-called "ventilated facade"(pos. 4 on the fragment "v"), which was already mentioned in the article.

If thermal insulation is installed from impermeable pairs materials, the situation is more complicated. It will be necessary to provide for a reliable vapor barrier, which will eliminate or minimize the likelihood of vapors entering the wall structure from inside the room (some heaters themselves are a reliable barrier to vapor penetration). And yet, it is unlikely that it will be possible to fully prevent the "preservation" of moisture in the wall.

Natural questions may arise - but how in summer time when the pressure of water vapor on the street often exceeds that inside the house? Will there be back diffusion?

Yes, there will be such a process to a certain extent, but there is no need to be afraid of this - in conditions of elevated summer temperatures, moisture actively evaporates, and the wall cannot be saturated with water. When the moisture balance is normalized, the wall structure will return to its normal dry state. And temporarily high humidity does not pose a particular threat - it is more dangerous at low temperatures and freezing of the walls - that's when condensation reaches a peak. In addition, in the summer, windows or vents are constantly open in most houses, and there simply will not be any significant vapor pressure drop for abundant back diffusion.

In any case, no matter how high-quality the thermal insulation is, and no matter how optimally it is located, the most effective measure to normalize the moisture balance is effective ventilation of the premises. That outlet, which is located in the kitchen or in the bathroom, will not cope with such a task on its own!

It is interesting that the issue of ventilation began to be raised with such acuteness relatively recently - with the start of mass installation by apartment owners of metal-plastic windows with double-glazed windows and doors with hermetic seals around the perimeter. In old houses wooden windows and the doors were a kind of "ventilation duct", and together with the vents to some extent coped with the task of air exchange.

Ventilation issues - special attention!

Obvious signs of insufficient ventilation in the apartment are abundant condensation on the windows and damp patches at the corners of the window slopes. and how to deal with it - in a separate publication of our portal.

What materials are used to insulate external walls

Now let's move on to, in fact, the consideration of the main materials that are used to insulate the external walls of the house. The main technical and operational parameters will, as a rule, be presented in the form of tables. And the attention in the text will be focused on the features of the material in terms of its use in this particular area.

Bulk materials

To insulate walls, under certain conditions, materials can be used that fill the cavities inside the wall structure, or they are used to create light solutions with thermal insulation qualities.

Expanded clay

Of all the materials of this type, expanded clay is the most famous. It is obtained by special preparation of special types of clay and subsequent firing of clay pellets at temperatures above 1100 degrees. Such a thermal effect leads to the phenomenon of pyroplasty - an avalanche-like gas formation due to the water present in the raw material and the decomposition products of the components. The result is a porous structure that provides good thermal insulation properties, and clay sintering gives the granules high surface strength.

After receiving the finished product, it is sorted by size - fractions. Each of the fractions has its own bulk density and, accordingly, thermal conductivity.

Material parameters	Expanded clay gravel 20 ÷ 40 mm	Expanded clay crushed stone 5 ÷ 10 mm	Expanded clay sand or sand-gravel mixture 0 ÷ 10 mm

Bulk density, kg/m³	240 ÷ 450	400 ÷ 500	500 ÷ 800
Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/m×°С	0.07 ÷ 0.09	0.09 ÷ 0.11	0.12 ÷ 0.16
Water absorption, % of volume	10 ÷ 15	15 ÷ 20	no more than 25
Weight loss, %, during freezing cycles (with standard frost resistance grade F15)	no more than 8	no more than 8	not regulated

What are the advantages of expanded clay as an insulating material:

Ceramite is highly environmentally friendly - no chemical compounds are used in its manufacture .
An important quality is the fire resistance of the material. It does not burn itself, does not spread flame, and when exposed to high temperatures does not emit substances harmful to human health .
Expanded clay will never become a breeding ground for any life forms, and besides, it is bypassed by insects .
Despite the hygroscopicity, the processes of decay in the material will not develop .
Material prices are quite reasonable, affordable for most consumers.

Among the shortcomings, the following can be noted:

High-quality insulation will require a sufficiently thick
Wall insulation is possible only by creating a multilayer structure with cavities inside or by using large hollow blocks in the construction. Warming the walls of a previously built house in this way - uh This is a very large-scale and costly undertaking, which is unlikely to be profitable.

Expanded clay is poured into the cavity in a dry form or poured in the form of a light concrete mortar ( expanded clay concrete).

Expanded clay prices

Expanded clay

Vermiculite

A very interesting and promising insulation material is vermiculite. It is obtained by heat treatment of a special rock - hydromica. The high moisture content in the raw material leads to the effect of pyroplasty, the material rapidly increases in volume (swells), forming porous and layered granules of various fractions.

Such a structural structure predetermines high rates of resistance to heat transfer. The main characteristics of the material are given in the table:

Parameters	Units	Characteristic
Density	kg/m³	65 ÷ 150
Coefficient of thermal conductivity	W/m ×° K	0.048 ÷ 0.06
Melting temperature	°C	1350
Thermal expansion coefficient		0,000014
Toxicity		non-toxic
Color		Silver, golden, yellow
Application temperature	°C	-260 to +1200
Sound absorption coefficient (at a sound frequency of 1000 Hz)		0.7 ÷ 0.8

Along with a lot of advantages, vermiculite has one very significant drawback - the price is too high. So, one cubic meter of dry material can cost 7 or more thousand rubles (you can find offers that exceed even 10 thousand). Naturally, using it in its pure form for backfilling in a cavity is extremely ruinous. Therefore, the optimal solution is to use vermiculite as a component in the manufacture of "warm plaster".

Often, for high-quality thermal insulation, “warm plaster” is enough

Such a plaster layer gives the walls good thermal insulation qualities, and in some cases such insulation will even be quite enough.

By the way, the material has a high vapor permeability, so these can be used on any wall surfaces with virtually no restrictions.

They are also applicable to interior decoration. So, warm plasters with vermiculite can be prepared both on the basis of cement and on the basis of gypsum - depending on the specific conditions of their use. Moreover, such a wall covering will also give them increased fire resistance - even a wooden wall covered with vermiculite plaster will be able to withstand the “pressure” of an open flame for a certain time.

Another material obtained by heat treatment of rock. The raw material in this case is perlite - volcanic glass. When exposed high temperatures particles of this rock swell, porous, forming extremely light porous sand with a specific gravity of only about 50 kg / m³.

low density and gas content perlite sand - what is required for effective thermal insulation. The main properties of the material, depending on the brand in terms of bulk density, are given in the table;

The name of indicators	Grade of sand by bulk density
	75	100	150	200
Bulk density, kg/m3	Up to 75 inclusive	Over 75 and up to 100 inclusive	Over 100 and up to 150 inclusive	Over 150 and up to 200 inclusive
Thermal conductivity at a temperature of (20 ± 5) °С, W/m × °С, not more than	0,047	0,051	0,058	0,07
Humidity, % by mass, no more	2, 0	2	2.0	2.0
Compressive strength in the cylinder (determined by fraction 1.3-2.5mm), MPa (kgf/cm2), not less than	Not standardized			0.1

This material is also popular due to its relatively low price, which cannot be compared with the same vermiculite. True, both technological and operational qualities are worse here.

One of the disadvantages of perlite when used dry is the extremely high moisture absorption- No wonder it is often used as an adsorbent. The second drawback is that extremely fine fractions, almost powder, are always present in the composition of the sand, and it is extremely difficult to work with the material, especially in open conditions, even with a very weak breeze. However, there will be enough trouble indoors, as it forms a lot of dust.

A common area of application for perlite sand is the manufacture of lightweight concrete mortars with thermal insulating qualities. Another typical use is the mixing of masonry compounds. The use of such solutions when laying walls minimizes the effect of cold bridges along the seams between bricks or blocks.

Expanded perlite sand is also used in the production of ready-made dry mixes - “warm plasters”. These building and finishing compounds are rapidly gaining popularity, since at the same time as adding additional insulation to the walls, they immediately perform a decorative function.

Video - Review of "warm plaster" THERMOVER

Mineral wool

Of all the insulation materials used, mineral wool is likely to take first place in the "availability - quality" category. It cannot be said that the material is devoid of flaws - there are many of them, but for thermal insulation of walls it often becomes the best option.

In residential construction, as a rule, two types of mineral wool are used - glass wool and basalt (stone). Their comparative characteristics are indicated in the table, and a more detailed description of the advantages and disadvantages follows it.

Name of parameters		Stone (basalt) wool
Limiting application temperature, °С	from -60 to +450	up to 1000°
Average fiber diameter, µm	5 to 15	4 to 12
Hygroscopicity of the material for 24 hours (no more),%	1.7	0,095
causticity	Yes	No
Thermal conductivity coefficient, W / (m × ° K)	0.038 ÷ 0.046	0.035 ÷ 0.042
Sound absorption coefficient	from 0.8 to 92	from 0.75 to 95
The presence of a binder, %	from 2.5 to 10	from 2.5 to 10
Flammability of the material	NG - non-flammable	NG - non-flammable
Selection harmful substances when burning	Yes	Yes
Heat capacity, J/kg ×° K	1050	1050
Vibration resistance	No	moderate
Elasticity, %	there is no data	75
Sintering temperature, °C	350 ÷ 450	600
Fiber length, mm	15 ÷ 50	16
Chemical stability (weight loss), % in water	6.2	4.5
Chemical resistance (weight loss), % in alkaline medium	6	6.4
Chemical resistance (weight loss), % in acid environment	38.9	24

This material is obtained from quartz sand and cullet. The raw material is melted, and thin and rather long fibers are formed from this semi-liquid mass. Next, the molding of sheets, mats or blocks of various densities (from 10 to 30 kg / m³) takes place, and in this form the glass wool is delivered to the consumer.

it is very plastic, and when packing it is easily subjected to compression to small volumes - this simplifies both the transportation and delivery of the material to the place of work. After unpacking, the mats or blocks are straightened to the intended dimensions. Low density and, accordingly, low weight - this is ease of installation, no need to strengthen walls or ceilings - additional load on them will be insignificant .
not afraid of chemical exposure, it does not rot and does not fade. She is not particularly “liked” by rodents, she will not become a nutrient medium for home microflora .
Glass wool is conveniently placed between the guides of the frame, and the elasticity of the material opens up the possibility of thermal insulation of complex, including curved surfaces. .
The abundance of raw materials and the relative ease of manufacture of glass wool make this material one of the most affordable in terms of cost.

Disadvantages of glass wool:

The fibers of the material are long, thin and brittle, and, as is typical of any glass, have sharp cutting edges. Of course, they will not be able to cause a cut, but they can cause persistent skin irritation. Even more dangerous is the ingress of these small fragments into the eyes, mucous membranes or respiratory tract. When working with such mineral wool, compliance with the rules of increased safety is required - protection of the skin of the hands and face, eyes, respiratory organs .

The very high probability of fine glass dust getting into the room, where it can be carried in a suspended state with air currents, makes the use of glass wool for interior work very undesirable.

absorbs water quite strongly and, being saturated with moisture, partially loses its insulating qualities. It is mandatory to provide either a hydro-vapor barrier of the insulation, or the possibility of its free ventilation .
Over time, glass wool fibers can sinter, stick together - nothing unusual, since glass is an amorphous material. Mats become thinner and denser, lose their thermal insulation properties .
Formaldehyde resins are used as a binding material that holds thin fibers in a single mass. No matter how manufacturers assure the complete environmental safety of their products, the release of free formaldehyde, which is extremely harmful to human health, is constant, throughout the entire period of operation of the material.

Of course, there are certain standards of sanitary compliance, and conscientious manufacturers try to adhere to them. On the quality material there must be appropriate certificates - it will never be superfluous to require them to be presented. But still, the presence of formaldehyde is another reason not to use glass wool indoors.

Basalt wool

This insulation is made from the melt of rocks of the basalt group - hence the name "stone wool". After the fibers are drawn, they are formed into mats, creating a chaotic rather than layered structure. After processing, blocks and mats are additionally pressed under certain thermal conditions. This predetermines the density and clear "geometry" of manufactured products.

Even in appearance, basalt wool looks denser. Its structure, especially in high-density grades, is sometimes even closer to felt. But the increased density does not at all mean a decrease in thermal insulation qualities - basalt wool is not inferior to glass wool in this, and often even surpasses it. .
The situation with hygroscopicity is much better. Some brands of basalt wool, due to special processing, are even close to hydrophobicity .
Clear the shapes of the blocks and panels make the installation of such mineral wool a fairly simple task. If necessary, the material can be easily cut to the right sizes. True, it will be difficult to work with it on surfaces of complex configuration. .
At stone wool- excellent vapor permeability, and with proper installation of thermal insulation, the wall will remain "breathing".
The density of basalt mineral wool blocks makes it possible to mount it on building glue, ensuring maximum adhesion to the insulated surface - this is extremely important for high-quality thermal insulation. In addition, on such wool, you can immediately, after reinforcement, lay a plaster layer .

Basalt wool fibers are not so brittle and prickly, and it is much easier to work with it in this regard. True, security measures are still superfluous.

The disadvantages include:

Although basalt insulation, of course, will not become a breeding ground for rodents, nor do they arrange their nests in it with great pleasure.
There is no escape from the presence of formaldehyde - everything is exactly the same as in glass wool, maybe - to a slightly lesser extent.
The cost of such a heater is significantly higher than glass wool.

Video - Useful information about basalt mineral wool " TechnoNIKOL»

What is the conclusion? Both mineral wools are quite suitable for thermal insulation of walls, if all conditions are met so that it is not actively saturated with moisture and has the ability to “ventilate”. The optimal location for it is outer side walls, where it will create effective insulation and will not bring much harm to people living in the house.

The use of mineral wool for internal insulation should, if possible, be avoided.

It can be noted that there is another type of mineral wool - slag. But it was deliberately not included in a detailed review, since it is of little use for warming a residential building. Of all types, it is most prone to moisture absorption and shrinkage. The high residual acidity of slag wool leads to the activation of corrosion processes in the materials covered with it. Yes, and the purity of the feedstock - blast-furnace slag, also raises a lot of doubts.

Mineral wool prices

Mineral wool

Heaters of the polystyrene group

Thermal insulation materials based on polystyrene can also be categorized as the most commonly used. But if you look closely at them, then they will cause a lot of questions.

Expanded polystyrene is represented by two main types. The first one is unpressed expanded polystyrene, which is more often called polystyrene foam (PBS). The second is more modern version, a material obtained by extrusion technology (EPS). To begin with - a comparative table of materials.

Material parameters	Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS)	Styrofoam
Thermal conductivity coefficient (W/m × ° C)	0.028 ÷ 0.034	0.036 ÷ 0.050
Water absorption in 24 hours in % of volume	0.2	0.4
Static bending strength MPa (kg/cm²)	0.4÷1	0.07 ÷ 0.20
Compressive strength 10% linear deformation, not less than MPa (kgf/cm²)	0.25 ÷ 0.5	0.05 ÷ 0.2
Density (kg/m³)	28 ÷ 45	15 ÷ 35
Operating temperatures	-50 to +75

Styrofoam

It would seem that the familiar white foam plastic is an excellent material for wall insulation. Low coefficient of thermal conductivity, lightweight and sufficiently strong blocks of clear shapes, ease of installation, wide range of thicknesses, affordable price- all these are undeniable advantages that attract many consumers.

The most controversial material is foam

However, before deciding to insulate the walls with foam, you need to think very carefully and assess the dangers of such an approach. There are many reasons for this:

Coefficient T The thermal conductivity of polystyrene is really “enviable”. But this is only in the original dry state. The very structure of the foam - air-filled balls glued together, suggest the possibility of significant moisture absorption. So, if you immerse a piece of foam in water for a certain time, then it can absorb 300 or more% of water about its mass. Of course, thermal insulation qualities are sharply reduced. .

And with all this, the vapor permeability of PBS is low, and the walls insulated with it will not have normal vapor exchange.

You should not believe that polystyrene is a very durable insulation. The practice of its use shows that after a few years, destructive processes begin - the appearance of shells, cavities, cracks, an increase in density and a decrease in volume. Laboratory studies of fragments damaged by such a kind of "corrosion" showed that the total resistance to heat transfer decreased by almost eight times! Is it worth it to start such insulation, which will have to be changed after 5 - 7 years?
Styrofoam cannot be called safe from a sanitary point of view. This material belongs to the group of equilibrium polymers, which, even under favorable conditions, can go through depolymerization - decomposition into components. At the same time, free styrene is released into the atmosphere - a substance that poses a danger to human health. Exceeding the maximum allowable concentration of styrene causes heart failure, affects the state of the liver, leads to the emergence and development of gynecological diseases.

This depolymerization process is activated as temperature and humidity increase. So using foam for indoor insulation is an extremely risky business.

And, finally, the main danger is the instability of the material to fire. It is impossible to call polystyrene a non-combustible material; under certain conditions, it actively burns with the release of extremely toxic smoke. Even a few breaths can lead to thermal and chemical burns of the respiratory organs, toxic damage to the nervous system and death. Unfortunately, there is a lot of sad evidence for this.

It is for this reason that foam plastic has long been no longer used in the production of railway cars and other vehicles. In many countries, it is simply prohibited in construction, and in any form - conventional insulation boards, sandwich panels or even fixed formwork. A house insulated with polystyrene can turn into a "fire trap" with almost zero chances of saving the people remaining in it.

Extruded polystyrene foam

A number of shortcomings of polystyrene managed to be eliminated by the development of a more modern variety of expanded polystyrene. It is obtained by a complete melt of the feedstock with the addition of certain components, followed by foaming of the mass and forcing through molding nozzles. The result is a finely porous homogeneous structure, with each air bubble completely isolated from the neighboring ones.

Such material is distinguished by increased mechanical strength in compression and bending, which significantly expands the scope of its application. The thermal insulation qualities are much higher than those of polystyrene, plus, XPS practically does not absorb moisture, and its thermal conductivity does not change.

The use of carbon dioxide or inert gases as a blowing agent dramatically reduces the possibility of ignition under the action of a flame. However, it is still not necessary to talk about complete security in this matter.

Such polystyrene foam has greater chemical stability, to a lesser extent "poisons the atmosphere." Its service life is estimated at several decades.

XPS is practically impervious to water vapor and moisture. This is for the walls - not too much good quality. True, it can be used with some caution for internal insulation - in this case, with proper installation, it simply will not allow the penetration of saturated vapors to the wall structure. If the EPS is mounted outside, then this should be done on the adhesive composition so as not to leave a gap between it and the wall, and the outer cladding should be done according to the principle of a ventilated facade.

The material is actively used for thermal insulation of loaded structures. It is perfect for warming a foundation or basement - strength will help to cope with the load of the soil, and water resistance in such conditions is generally an invaluable advantage.

Foundation t requires insulation!

Many people forget about this, and for some it even seems like some kind of whim. Why, and how to do it using EPPS - in a special publication of the portal.

But from the general chemical composition there is nowhere to go, and it was not possible to get rid of the highest toxicity during combustion. Therefore, all warnings regarding the danger of expanded polystyrene in case of fire fully apply to XPS.

Prices for expanded polystyrene, polystyrene, PIR plates

Expanded polystyrene, Styrofoam, PIR boards

polyurethane foam

Thermal insulation of walls by spraying (PPU) is considered one of the most promising areas in construction. In terms of its thermal insulation properties, PPU significantly surpasses most other materials. Even a very small layer of 20 — 30 mm m can give a tangible effect.

Material characteristics	Indicators
compressive strength (N/mm²)	0.18
Bending strength (N/mm²)	0.59
Water absorption (% volume)	1
Thermal conductivity (W/m ×°K)	0,019-0,035
Content of closed cells (%)	96
blowing agent	CO2
Flammability class	B2
Fire resistance class	G2
Application temperature from	+10
Application temperature from	-150oС to +220oС
Application area	Heat-hydro-cold insulation of residential and industrial buildings, tanks, ships, wagons
Effective service life	30-50 years old
Moisture, aggressive media	sustainable
Ecological cleanliness	Safe. Approved for use in residential buildings. Used in the manufacture of food refrigerators
Pour Time (seconds)	25-75
Water vapor permeability (%)	0.1
Cellularity	closed
Density (kg/m3)	40-120

Polyurethane foam is formed by mixing several components - as a result of the interaction between each other and with oxygen in the air, foaming of the material occurs, its increase in volume. The applied PPU quickly hardens, forming a durable waterproof shell. The highest adhesion rates allow spraying on almost any surface. Foam fills even minor cracks and depressions, creating a monolithic seamless "fur coat".

By themselves, the original components are quite toxic, and working with them requires increased precautions. However, after the reaction and subsequent solidification, within a few days, all hazardous substances completely evaporate, and PPU will no longer pose any danger.

It has a fairly high resistance to fire. Even with thermal decomposition, it does not release products that can cause toxic damage. For these reasons, it was he who replaced expanded polystyrene in mechanical engineering and in the production of household appliances.

Seemingly - perfect option, but again the problem lies in complete absence vapor permeability. So, for example, spraying polyurethane foam on a wall made of natural wood able to "kill" it for several years already - moisture that has no way out will inevitably lead to the processes of decomposition of organic matter. But getting rid of the applied layer will be almost impossible. In any case, if PPU spraying is used for insulation, the requirements for effective ventilation of the premises increase.

Among the shortcomings, one more circumstance can be noted - in the process of applying the material it is impossible to achieve evenness of the surface. This will create certain problems if a contact finish is planned on top - plaster, cladding, etc. Leveling the surface of the cured foam to the required level is a difficult and time-consuming task.

And another conditional drawback of PPU wall insulation is the impossibility of independently carrying out such work. It necessarily requires special equipment and equipment, sustainable technological skills. In any case, you will have to resort to calling a team of specialists. The material itself is not cheap, plus the production of work - in total, very serious costs can turn out.

Video - An example of spraying polyurethane foam on the exterior walls of a house

Ecowool

Many have not even heard of this insulation and do not consider it as an option for thermal insulation of external walls. And absolutely in vain! In a number of positions, ecowool is ahead of other materials, becoming almost ideal solution Problems.

Ecowool is made from cellulose fibers - woodworking waste and waste paper are used. Raw materials undergo high-quality pre-treatment - flame retardants for fire resistance and boric acid - to give the material pronounced antiseptic qualities.

Specifications	Parameter values
Compound	cellulose, mineral antipyretic and antiseptic
Density, kg / m³	35 ÷ 75
Thermal conductivity, W/m×°K	0.032 ÷ 0.041
Vapor permeability	the walls "breathe"
fire safety	flame retardant, no smoke formation, combustion products are harmless
Filling the voids	fills all the gaps

Ecowool is usually applied to the walls by spraying - for this, in a special installation, the material is mixed with the adhesive mass, and then it enters the sprayer under pressure. As a result, a coating is formed on the walls, which has very decent indicators of resistance to heat transfer. Ecowool can be applied in several layers, achieving the required thickness. The process itself is very fast. At the same time, certain protective equipment is certainly needed, but it is not as “categorical” as, say, when working with glass wool or when spraying polyurethane foam.

By itself, ecowool does not pose a danger to people. Boric acid, which is part of it, can cause skin irritation only with prolonged direct contact. But on the other hand, it becomes an insurmountable barrier to mold or fungus, to the appearance of nests of insects or rodents.

Ecowool has excellent vapor permeability, "preservation" in the walls will not occur. True, the material is quite hygroscopic, and requires reliable protection from direct water ingress - for this it must be covered with a diffuse membrane.

Ecowool is also used according to the “dry” technology - it is poured into the cavity of building structures. True, experts note that in this case it will have a tendency to caking and loss in volume and insulating qualities. for walls the best choice there will still be spraying.

What can be said about the shortcomings?

The surface insulated with ecowool cannot be immediately plastered or painted - it is required to be obligatory on top with one or another material.
Applying ecowool by spraying will require special equipment. The material itself is quite inexpensive, but with the involvement of specialists, the cost of such insulation will increase.

Video - Wall insulation with ecowool

In the aggregate of all its positive and negative qualities, ecowool is seen as the most promising option for insulating external walls.

What thickness of insulation is required?

If the owners of the house have decided on a heater, then it's time to find out what thickness of thermal insulation will be optimal. Too thin a layer will not be able to eliminate significant heat loss. Too thick - not very useful for the building itself, and will entail unnecessary costs.

The calculation method with an acceptable simplification can be expressed by the following formula:

Rsum= R1+ R2+ … + Rn

Rsum- total resistance to heat transfer of a multilayer wall structure. This parameter is calculated for each region. There are special tables, but you can use the diagram below. In our case, the upper value is taken - for the walls.

Resistance value Rn is the ratio of the layer thickness to the thermal conductivity of the material from which it is made.

Rn= δn/ λn

δn is the layer thickness in meters.

λn- coefficient of thermal conductivity.

As a result, the formula for calculating the thickness of the insulation appears as follows:

δut= (Rsum– 0.16 – δ1/ λ1– δ2/ λ2– … – δn/ λn) × λut

0,16 - this is an average accounting of thermal air resistance on both sides of the wall.

Knowing the parameters of the wall, measuring the thickness of the layers and taking into account the thermal conductivity of the selected insulation, it is easy to carry out independent calculations. BUT, to make it easier for the reader, a special calculator is placed below, in which this formula is already incorporated.