How to finish the gable with siding. Sheathing the gable with vinyl siding How to make the facade of a gable roof house with siding

Sheathing of gables is the final stage of the exterior decoration of the house. By this time, the master should no longer have questions about working with the main finishing material: siding. Installing vinyl and metal has a lot in common. But still, in working with each of them there are nuances.

There are some peculiarities in the sheathing of the pediment, that part of the house, which is located between the slopes of the roof. It (the pediment) can be either small in height or be a component of a full-fledged second floor. The latter also applies to buildings with a residential attic. Provence-style houses look the most comfortable. Therefore, most homeowners choose this particular way of decorating their home.

Key Features architectural style"Provence" - light colors, simplicity and clarity of lines, friendly family atmosphere. To finish such a house, materials that are democratic in price and impeccable in quality are chosen. The siding meets these criteria quite well. It is durable, has all the necessary characteristics to ensure proper protection of the walls of the building.

For a Provence-style finish, vinyl siding is the best choice. Unlike metal, it is able to bring comfort, simplicity and discreetness necessary for this design direction to the appearance of the building. At the same time, a house sheathed with vinyl siding looks modern and well-groomed.

The upper part of the building, the pediment, is visible from afar. It is she who creates the first impression of the house and its owners. Therefore, this stage of finishing work must be carried out as carefully as possible, guided by detailed step by step instructions based on the experience and recommendations of experts.

Materials needed for sheathing the gable with siding

An important point in finishing work of any kind - the choice of the main material and components. There is one immutable rule, the implementation of which eliminates many troubles during installation. It says: all trim elements must be purchased from one manufacturer.

Vinyl siding "Alta-Profile"

In this case, the buyer receives several advantages:

all details will be adjusted to the millimeter;
it becomes possible to choose the most successful color scheme;
in case of shortage of material, it can be purchased in addition without fear of significant differences in color shades.

There is one more important point when choosing the material to be aware of. The cladding structure must include exactly those elements that are recommended by the manufacturer. Replacement with equivalent parts, but of a different type, will certainly bring dissonance to the appearance of the building and increase the complexity and complexity of installation.

So, it is not recommended to combine vinyl and metal siding or additional elements of these materials in the sheathing of gables. The point is not only in the appearance that does not comply with the rules of aesthetics, but also in the different coefficients of thermal expansion of these products. A finish that uses metal and vinyl at the same time will not be durable. There is a high risk of cracks in vinyl siding, which will change its geometric shape under the influence of expansion and contraction of metal parts.

Additional elements for covering the pediment

The use of properly selected components in the installation will allow you to get a high-quality cladding structure, which is not afraid of strong winds, frost, or high humidity. To cover the gable with siding, you will need to buy several types of additional elements. Products intended for finishing window openings are needed if there are windows on the gable.

product name	Purpose and features
	Installed first, it is a long narrow canvas to which the lower edge of the first panel is attached.
	Drains water from the basement of the building.
	Detail to cover the joints between horizontally laid siding and soffit panels provides an aesthetically pleasing appearance connection points.
	It is intended for finishing window openings, the width of which is less than 14 cm. It has a rather complex profile, including elements of a slope and a platband.
	Designed for finishing window and door openings with a slope width of more than 14 cm.
	It is installed along the perimeter of window and door openings, any vertical and horizontal sections, junctions along the inclined line of the wall and roof, for filing and fixing spotlights.
	It is used for sheathing window openings located on the same plane with the walls of the building.
	Designed to cover and hold the ends of the siding panels on the inner and outer corners of the house. When sheathing gables, they are used if the area to be finished has a complex relief: ledges and niches relative to the plane of the walls.
	It is an element with which the installation of the facing structure is completed. It is installed above the last, top panel of the skin. When finishing the pediment, it is necessary if the roof slope has a complex shape, including horizontal sections.
	These thin strips are necessary for joining different trim elements and masking gaps.
	Panels intended for filing the inside of the roof overhang.
	Provides wind protection for the attic.

When choosing a set of additional elements necessary for sheathing the pediment, the novice master will certainly come across one feature: a variety of names. This can lead to feelings of confusion and misunderstanding. In fact, everything is simple. Manufacturers, wishing to distinguish their products from the general mass of similar products, give it their own name.

For example, the starting bar is also called the "starter". J-Trim bar - "J-profile" or "J-profile". Finishing bar - "adjustable profile". The same features are present in the names of other additional elements.

In order to correctly navigate this diversity, you must first pay attention to the profile of the product. For elements of the same purpose, it is always the same, with the exception of small nuances introduced by the manufacturer to emphasize the features of their products.

This point is extremely important to consider. Buying components of different brands will inevitably cause a lot of problems during installation, regardless of the complexity of the relief of the gables and the presence or absence of window openings.

Correct calculation of the amount of materials for sheathing the gable with siding

When determining the amount of siding for cladding the walls of a house, it is enough to perform two types of measurements: find the total length and height of all walls. After that, the area of \u200b\u200bthe building is calculated and the result obtained is divided by the area of \u200b\u200bone unit of the finishing material. Thus, an indicator of the required number of panels is obtained.

In the case of gables, everything is much more complicated, since these building elements can have a complex architectural form. But in most cases there are two types:

have the shape of a regular triangle;
have a trapezoidal shape.

Regardless of the type of construction, before starting measurements and calculations, you need to find out what is the area of one siding panel. To do this, its length is multiplied by its width.

Calculation example.

On average, vinyl siding panels are 3.05 m long and 24 cm wide. different manufacturers you can find lamellas with a width of 17.9 cm, 20.5 cm, 23.2 cm, 25.6 cm. We arm ourselves with a calculator and multiply 3.05 m x 0.24 m. We get 0.732 m2. This is the area of one siding panel.

Next, you need to perform a series of measurements. To do this, you will need a tape measure, paper and a pencil. It is most convenient to take measurements with the help of modern laser roulettes. These instruments are also referred to as "laser rangefinders". The principle of working with them is simple: you need to install a tape measure at the starting point of the measurement and direct the beam to the point to which you want to measure the distance. Good feedback about inexpensive, but high-quality devices LEICA Disto D2 and Mettro СONDTROL 60.

Determination of the number of siding panels for triangular gables

Measure the base (lower horizontal line) of the triangular pediment. They get an "A".
Measure the height: project the top of the triangle onto the base and measure the distance between these two points. They get a "B".
Find the area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment according to the following formula: ½ A x B.
Divide the gable area by the area of one siding panel. A number is obtained indicating the number of panels required for sheathing. All calculations are made in m2.

Calculation example.

The base of the pediment is 3.45 m. The height is 3.8 m. The area of one panel is 0.732 m2.

We calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe triangular pediment: ½ x 3.45 m x 3.8 m = 6.55 m2.
We calculate the required number of panels: 6.55 m2: 0.732 m2 = 8.948. Rounding up, we get 89.5. This is the number of siding panels required to cover a gable that is 3.45 m long and 3.8 m high.

Determination of the number of siding panels for trapezoidal gables

Measure the length of the gable base (b).
Measure the length of the upper horizontal line of the roof (a).
Measure the height of the pediment: project the break point of the roof onto the base and calculate the distance between these two points (h).
Calculate the area of a trapezoid using the formula: ½ x (a + b) x h.
Divide the resulting figure by the area of one panel.

Calculation example:

b = 6 m;
a = 3 m;
h = 1.8 m.

½ x (6+3) x 1.8 = 8.1 m2

8.1 m2: 0.732 m2 = 11.06

We find out that 110.6 siding panels are needed to cover a trapezoidal gable of these sizes.

Determining the number of siding panels for complex architectural gables

In order to find out the material consumption for finishing complex gables with windows, ledges and height differences, it is necessary to perform a series of measurements for each structural element.

First of all, find out the area of \u200b\u200bwindow openings. To do this, measure their length and height.
After that, these figures are multiplied.
Record the resulting value.
Similarly, they do with all the windows on the pediment.
The final stage is the summation of the obtained indicators. This will be the total area of all windows.

To perform the next stage of calculations, you will need to draw an impromptu drawing of the pediment on a piece of paper. Next, you need to break its complex shape into several simple ones: triangles and rectangles. After that, they begin to measure each individual figure. All obtained indicators are recorded in the drawing.

The next step is to calculate the gable area. Since it consists of several simple shapes, first determine the area of each of them. After that, the obtained values are summarized. Get the required indicator: gable area complex shape.

Next, you need to subtract from this figure obtained at the first stage of work total area window openings. As a result, the area to be covered with siding will be found. After that, it will be easy to calculate the number of panels required to complete this task. The process is similar to that described in the sections on triangular and trapezoidal gables.

Determination of the amount of materials for sheathing eaves and gable overhangs

The overhang is the part of the roof that protrudes beyond the plane of the walls of the house. The horizontal part of these protrusions is called the "cornice overhang". Vertical - "pediment". Both of them are sheathed with spotlights. The ends are closed with J-slats and (or) droppers. To determine the required amount of materials, it is necessary to sequentially perform several tasks:

measure the length of the cornice overhangs;
measure the width of the cornice overhangs (the part that protrudes beyond the pediment);
all indicators obtained as a result of measurements must be converted into running meters;
then you need to find the total area of \u200b\u200bthe cornice overhangs, alternately calculating the area of \u200b\u200beach ledge;
a similar procedure is performed for gable overhangs.

As a result, the total area of the roof overhangs to be sheathed with soffits will be found. Next, the area of one soffit panel and the length of the J-profile in the set of components of the selected brand of finishing material are found out. By analogy with the previous calculations, they find the required amount of material for finishing work.

Rules and features of the connections of additional elements for sheathing the gable

Accessories are necessary to ensure ease of installation of siding panels and to give the house a finished look. If the pediment has a complex architectural form, for which the standard assortment of additional elements is not enough for covering, the missing parts can be ordered. All manufacturers of these materials offer the service of manufacturing panels and components according to the sketches and dimensions of the customer.

Any of the additional siding elements is equipped with a perforated strip located on one side of the product. Otherwise, this element is called the "nail bar". It is designed to fix fittings to the bearing surface.

To connect the finishing elements with each other, the so-called "locks" are used: curly protrusions on the side of the products, which is opposite to the perforated plank. Locks of different elements have different shape. This is necessary in order to ensure the best possible connection of the trim panels.

So, when installing siding, they achieve a characteristic click, signaling that the correct connection of the two parts has occurred. When facing window and door openings, a different method of joining components is used: the protrusions of one are inserted into the corresponding recesses of the other. When performing these works, there is no need for the most dense docking.

Proper installation of siding involves the implementation of several simple, but mandatory rules.

When fastening panels and accessories to the bearing surface, you should try to screw the screws into the middle of the holes in the nail strip.
It is impossible to attract the panels with self-tapping screws so that they are in maximum contact with the edge of the crate. According to the installation rules, there should be a small gap between the screw head and the nail strip, at least 1 mm wide, but not more than 1.5 mm wide. This requirement is connected with the need to provide the material with "free movement" under the influence of expansion and compression forces.
All products are attached to the walls only through the holes in the nail strip.
When mounting adjacent elements, it is necessary to trim the nail strip of one of them so that a gap of at least 5 mm wide is formed.
For installation of vinyl and metal siding, galvanized fasteners are used.

Tools needed for gable siding

Since the pediment is the upper part of the building, the work will have to be done at a height. Therefore, first of all, you need to take care of the availability of durable stairs. At least two are needed, as this will eliminate the constant movement of one staircase from one corner of the house to another. The best option- arrangement of walkways along which it will be possible to move while performing work.

It is important to choose the most convenient tool for trimming siding. There are three options for completing this task:

Prices for popular models of jigsaws

Electric jigsaw

All these tools allow you to get a smooth saw cut without chipping. Each master chooses for himself the way of working with the material that is most convenient and accessible for him.

To mark the panels and accessories, you will need a simple pencil and a metal square. A tape measure is required to take measurements. One of the most necessary tools is a building bubble level. Experts recommend choosing a professional model, since with its help you can most accurately determine the horizontal and vertical.

From auxiliary tools, you can prepare the following:

plumb;
pliers;
hammer;
rubber or wooden mallet;
marker.

For screwing galvanized screws, a battery-powered screwdriver is most convenient. It is not “tied” to the mains, so there will be no need for various kinds of carrying and wires. Optimal choice- Screwdriver with two replaceable batteries. The presence of an additional one will avoid interruptions in work necessary to recharge a dead battery.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

How to properly mount the frame under the siding

Siding of any brand and from any material (asbestos cement, metal or vinyl) cannot be installed directly on the walls. First you need to prepare the frame, which is otherwise called the "crate". This can be done using two types of materials: wooden blocks or a metal profile, which is designed for the installation of drywall.

It cannot be said that one of these materials is better than the other. Both of them are suitable for creating a strong and durable frame. But the tree still has one drawback: it requires thorough drying. Otherwise, the crate will certainly lead and deformation of the facing structure is possible. The risk of this trouble is especially high when working with flexible vinyl siding.

The section of wooden bars should resemble the section of a metal profile. The following sizes will fit: 30/40mm, 35/45mm, 40/40mm, 45/45mm, 40/50mm, 40/60mm, etc. Most often, the metal profile PP 60/27 is chosen for the frame device. He, like wooden bars, will serve as load-bearing racks.

In addition to the main elements of this design, additional ones will be needed: suspensions. These are special thin perforated plates that are used to align the frame racks in one plane. Thus, perfectly smooth vertical walls are obtained.

Hangers are attached to the bearing surface through a hole located in the middle of the plate. After that, the perforated strips are bent and the frame rack is inserted between them. Fastening is carried out using small self-tapping screws SMM 3.5 / 51. You can use other fasteners suitable for this purpose. For the construction of a frame made of wooden bars, wood screws 1.5-2.5 cm long are needed.

Rules for mounting the frame for siding

Hangers are installed in such a way that the step between them does not exceed 60 cm.
The upper and lower suspensions should be no further than 15 cm from the edge of the wall, and no closer than 5 cm.
If wooden blocks are used, their preparation is necessary: high-quality drying and coating with an ogebioprotective solution.
The step between the supporting racks of the frame must correspond to the width of the insulation being laid. Optimal - 50-60 cm.
For brick surfaces, pre-drilling holes for suspensions will be required. First, they put the appropriate marks on the wall, after which they perform the task with the help of a drill and a drill with a victorious solder.

Preparatory work

The beginning of work on the installation of the lathing - the preparation of the gable and roof overhangs.

Step 1. First of all, remove the old finishing material: wind boards, ebbs, cladding. To perform this task, use any convenient tools: mount, hammer, pliers.

Step 2 roofing material cut flush with the gable overhangs. Choose tools that match the material of the roof. If it is a metal tile, use a grinder with a circle for metal. If it is slate, you will need a hammer, a grinder with a stone disc, wire cutters. If uneven protrusions or chips remain after trimming, do not worry: subsequently they will be covered with trim elements: droppers.

Step 3 They do everything necessary to level the wall and overhangs: they remove or cut down all those protruding parts that can be removed without catastrophic consequences for the building.

Pediment before finishing - photo

Beating the plane of the pediment

Step 1 Installing the Bottom Rail

To determine the plane of the skin, a laser level is most convenient. This device is installed at the lowest point of one of the corners of the gable and directs the beam to the opposite side. It is important to install the device so that the new plane is away from bearing wall not less than 4 cm. Turning on the device, make marks at the points indicated by the laser.

In order to build a new plane with the help of bars and improvised tools, proceed as follows:

Step 2 Locating the Top Rail

Regardless of whether the gable is triangular or trapezoidal, the installation of the upper rail begins with cutting its ends at an angle of 45 °. To do this, use a miter saw, jigsaw or hacksaw.

Next, you need to find the exact place to install the upper guide. To accomplish this task, you will need a plumb line on a thread of such length that it is sufficient for the load to come into contact with the lower guide. If the height of the pediment is significant, you need to find an assistant. This person will be at the bottom rail and determine if the plumb bob has come into contact with it.

Sequencing:

from the point of intersection of the ridge beam with the gable wall, a distance is measured equal to the width of the indent from the wall of the lower guide (from the wall to the outer plane of the bars);
put a mark with a marker;
apply a thread to this point, on which a plumb line is fixed;
ask the assistant if the load has come into contact with the outer plane of the lower guide;
gradually moving the thread, they find the point at which the plumb line will show that the vertical has been found;
make appropriate marks with a marker.

If the pediment has a trapezoidal shape, this work is done twice, at each intersection of the roof beams with the wall.

Step 3 Mounting the Top Rail

Self-tapping screws are screwed into bars with ends cut at an angle of 45 ° so that their tips protrude from reverse side bar by 5-7 mm. Holes are drilled at the points found with a plumb line and plastic dowels are installed in them. After that, the upper guide is fixed. If necessary, the ridge beam is hemmed with a wooden die.

Step 4 Installing the Side Rails

Along the lines of the roof slope, it is necessary to install side guides made of the same material as those already fixed. To do this, you need to file or cut the ends of the bars. Since the angle of the roof slope can be any, it is impossible to give recommendations regarding the angle of the cut of the bars. This parameter is determined empirically by applying wooden dies to the upper and lower guides.

Then they perform the same actions as in the previous stages: drill holes in the bars and screw self-tapping screws into them. After that, the side guides are attached to the roof overhangs and to the upper and lower guides. The finished contour of the crate must be in the same vertical plane.

Installation of the frame for siding

Step 1. Marking for hangers

Focusing on the above rules for mounting the crate, mark the gable for the installation of suspensions. To complete this work, you will need a plumb line, tape measure and marker.

From the corner point at which the lower guide and the roof overhang intersect, the distance selected, depending on the width of the insulation, recedes. If it is not planned to insulate the gable, then the optimal step is 40-60 cm.
Put a mark on the lower guide with a marker.
A thread with a plumb line is applied to the adjacent side guide and the point of contact of the load with the mark on the bottom guide is found.
A line of thread is projected onto the wall and marks are made along it with a marker, taking into account that the top and bottom are no closer than 5 cm to the wooden (metal) contour of the crate. Step between intermediate points 50-60 cm.
From the mark on the lower rail, they measure 40-60 cm towards the opposite corner of the house and perform a similar sequence of work: using a plumb line, they find the vertical and mark along this line with a marker.
Thus, they mark the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment

If there are window or door openings, the marking is carried out taking into account that the suspensions should be located along the perimeter of these gable elements, but taking into account the desired slope angle. This will allow you to make high-quality lining of openings.

Step 2. Preparing holes for mounting hangers

Prices for popular models of rotary hammers

Perforators

At this stage of the frame for siding, it is necessary to drill holes with which suspensions will be attached to the pediment. The choice of materials and tools depends on what the pediment is built from. If it is a brick, you will need a drill (optimally - with a puncher mode), a drill with a victorious solder, a dowel and nails. If it is a tree, foam block or gas block, a screwdriver and self-tapping screws are enough.

Step 3. Mounting hangers

The suspensions are fastened with a screwdriver and self-tapping screws 3.5-4.5 cm long, having a flat wide hat. Each metal bar is applied to the wall so that it (the bar) is horizontal. There is an elongated hole in the central part of the suspension. Its middle is combined with a mark on the pediment. Screw in the self-tapping screw and pull the metal bar to the wall.

Step 4. Installing the supporting racks of the frame

Step 5. Mounting the roof eaves sheathing

In order to veneer the inner plane of the roof overhangs, they must be hemmed along the lines of the slopes with bars 3-4 cm thick. Wooden slats are attached to the inner corner formed by the junction of the overhang to the gable, and along the outer, opposite corner line of the overhangs.

Since the spotlights are strong in bending and light in weight, a distance of up to 80 cm is permissible between the bars. But overhangs of this width are quite rare. At this stage of work, it is necessary to ensure that the outer ends of the lathing form a straight line, repeating the cut of the slope of the roof.

Prices for different types of bars

Sheathing of window and door openings

There are several options for finishing window and doorways. Choice best way depends on whether installation of ebb and slopes is required, and on the characteristics of the components of a particular manufacturer. But the basic principles for installing trim elements are the same for all types of siding.

The windows on the gables are most often in the same plane with the wall. Therefore, the installation of ebbs and slopes is not required. The width of the side panel of the window trim is quite enough for covering shallow openings. For their facing, several stages of work must be sequentially performed.

Step 1. Taking measurements

A tape measure is used to take measurements. The results are recorded on a piece of paper. You need to know the following parameters:

the height of the inner line of the opening;
the height of the outer line of the opening;
opening depth (slope width);
opening bevel angle.

Step 2. Preparation of finishing elements

In accordance with the obtained dimensions, the window trim and the J-profile are cut. The most difficult task- correctly cut out all the protrusions, which, when joined by two near-window strips, form the inner and outer corners of the slopes.

The profile of these additional elements (near-window strips) is quite complex, so you will have to repeatedly trim one or another part of the ends after fitting. It is recommended to saw off a little near-window strip from a solid canvas. bigger size than the opening height. After obtaining a high-quality end cut, the panel can be shortened.

Step 3. Mounting the J-profile

The J-profile is fixed along the perimeter of the window so that the nail strips are on the plane of the slopes. For fixing, self-tapping screws are used, which are screwed into the bars (metal profile) of the crate.

Step 4. Installing the window trim

The near-window plank is installed so that its curly protrusion covers the outer corner of the slope. The flat part of the panel is inserted into the J-profile. The nail strips of the window profile are attached to the crate. The ends of the siding panels will be inserted into the recesses of these additional elements, which will cover all attachment points.

Framing arched and round windows

Sheathing the gable with siding

The sequence of steps for installing siding depends on several factors. First, you need to consider whether the complex of works will be carried out independently, or with the assistance of assistants. Secondly, such a moment as the presence of a lower slope (low tide) at the pediment is important. If it is not there, the facing work on the gable sheathing is a continuation of the wall decoration of the house with siding. In this case, the installation of the starting bar is not needed.

If the pediment has a lower slope and the work is carried out alone, it is recommended to do a little preparation before starting the installation of the facing structure. This will reduce the laboriousness of fastening long and flexible panels of the starting bar, since there will be no one to hold its second end.

If this is the situation, self-tapping screws are half screwed into the lower outer end of the lower frame guide so that they are 40-50 cm apart. They will need to lay the starting bar. After that, it can be fixed without much difficulty.

Siding prices

The sequence of works on the installation of siding

Step 1. Mounting the finish bar

Along the line of the roof slope, a finishing bar is attached to the side rails. Both lines of these profiles will intersect at the top corner point of the triangular pediment. Therefore, the ends of each plank must be cut at an angle so that a beautiful even joint is obtained.

If the pediment has a trapezoidal shape, the finishing strips are installed only along the side rails, leaving the top free.

Step 2. Preparing to fix the starting bar

If the lower frame guide is not perfectly flat, the thread is pulled before mounting the starting profile. It will be a guideline for setting the initial bar. The thread must be stretched strictly horizontally. This is achieved using the building level.

Step 3 Attaching the Starter Bar

The initial bar is laid on a thread and one end of this additional element is inserted into the adjacent finishing bar. Between these finishing details there should be a distance of 2-3 mm. Thus, the damper gap will be provided, which is necessary to compensate for the "stroke" of the bars when they are heated or cooled.

Next, they proceed to fastening the starting profile through the holes in its nail strip. Self-tapping screws are used, which are screwed in so that the bar freely “walks” horizontally within the perforation hole. But it was firmly established.

The next starting profile is set at a distance of 5-6 mm from the first. Thus, they move along the gable line. The last bar is cut with metal scissors, slightly bent in the direction “towards itself” and the end is brought into the finish bar.

Step 2. Installing the first siding panel

At the bottom of each siding panel there is a U-shaped bend, with which the two lamellas are connected. There is a recess on the starting bar into which you need to insert the siding panel. After that, it is slightly pulled up and through the holes in the nail strip, it is fastened with self-tapping screws to the racks of the frame.

In this work, it is important to follow one rule: never pull up the siding so that it is in maximum contact with the underlying panel. Between them it is necessary to leave a gap 2-3 mm wide.

The ends of the siding panels must be brought into the side finish strips. The panels are connected horizontally either with an overlap or with an H-shaped profile.

Step 3. Further set of siding

Since for each line of panels you will have to cut the ends at a certain angle, it is recommended to make templates for each roof slope. They (templates) can be made from panel cuts, one edge of which must be cut at an angle so that it matches the slope line of one of the roof slopes.

Under the window, everything is about the same - the topmost bar is cut to size and simply snaps onto the bottom lock of the siding

In the future, the templates are laid on the panels, a line is drawn along them, and an unnecessary part of the end of the siding is sawn off along it. Having reached the top point of the triangular pediment, it is permissible to fix the top panel through the siding, and not through the perforation.

The only time you can attach a siding panel right through the vinyl is the last panel.

If the pediment is trapezoidal, a finishing bar is attached to the upper rail of the frame. After that, the installation of the last siding panel is carried out. It may need to be trimmed.

Soffit installation

Modern soffit systems consist of 4 elements:

soffit panel with perforation;
soffit panel without perforation;
J-profile (for some manufacturers, this product is called a "finishing bar");
connecting strip.

Step 1. Mounting the J-profile

J-profile is needed for closing the ends and holding the soffits. This additional element is fixed in the same way as siding panels: through perforation. J-Strips must be located on both sides of the soffits, so they are attached to the inner corner formed by the roof overhang and the gable wall, and to the outer cut of the roof.

Two J-profiles are interconnected by cutting off 2-2.5 cm of the mounting (perforated) part at one of the planks. After that, the planks lead into each other. At the corner points of the overhangs, the J-profile is butt-joined.

Step 2. Installing spotlights

Prices for various types of spotlights

Roof soffits

Soffits are quite flexible and light, so their installation is simple. The panel is slightly bent downwards and both of its ends are inserted into the recesses in the J-straps. Further actions depend on the configuration of the roof overhangs and the relief of the pediment.

If it is triangular in shape, a set of spotlights is carried out and they are fastened in the same way that was used when installing the siding panels. At correct docking two spotlights should hear a characteristic click. Thanks to the locks, the panels are firmly connected to each other. But here, too, you need to follow the same rule as when installing siding: leave a gap of 2-3 mm wide between the trim elements.

If the pediment is trapezoidal or more complex, in places of kinks and turns, they are attached connecting strips. With their help, lines of spotlights are joined together. The final stage of work is the installation of drips. They are attached to the outer cut of the roof slopes.

Video - How to sheathe a gable with siding part 1. Secrets of installing siding

Video - How to sheathe a gable with siding part 2. Secrets of installing siding

Video - Gable sheathing

An integral element of a house with a pitched roof is the pediment. It performs not only the functions of enclosing structures, but also serves as a decoration of the house and part of its facade. Therefore, it is so important to properly trim the pediment so that it is warm in the attic or attic floor, and outside the pediment part is in harmony with the entire building and performs aesthetic functions. In our article, we will list the materials that are suitable for exterior finish this part of the structure, as well as briefly describe the nuances that you should know before sheathing the pediment of the house with siding or doing it in case of using lining and corrugated board.

Features of the gable device

Part outer wall at home, bounded from below by the overlap of the building, and from above by the planes of the pitched roof, is called the pediment. At the same time, pediments will inevitably appear when arranging a broken, gable or shed roof, as well as a half-hip roof. In the latter case, this constructive part of the building will not have a triangular shape, but a trapezoidal one. When using a sloping roof of the house, the pediment will be polygonal, and in the case of mounting a vaulted roof, the shape of the pediment will be rounded.

Before deciding how to sheathe the pediment of the house with your own hands, it is important to figure out which technological group this design belongs to:

Most cheap option, suitable for doing it yourself, is a pediment erected according to frame technology. In this case, the insulation is laid between the racks of the frame, and the gable wall itself is sheathed along the frame. This method of arranging the pediment is actively used in private construction as the most simple option light roof construction.
You will have to sheathe a solid gable wall if the house is being built from gas blocks, brick, cylindering or timber. This method of arranging the pediment is more complex and requires the performer to have at least basic knowledge in the construction business. In this way, the gables of buildings that are exposed to overhaul and reconstruction. Although this method can be used to sheathe a house built of ordinary brick or cellular concrete, after which it will acquire a beautiful and respectable look.

Important: the pediment can be made from the same material as the walls of the house, or made from a different material. For example, in brick house there may be a pediment built using frame technology, or in a stone house, rounded beams can be used to make the pediment.

The main functions of the pediment:

Wind protection. Since the pediment is exposed to wind, it must be strong enough and airtight.
This structural part of the building supports the pitched roof. Though roof structure rests on the walls of the house and the Mauerlat, the pediment additionally supports the slopes. This is especially true for roofs covered with slate or natural tiles.
If there is a residential attic floor under the roof, then the function of preserving heat in the room is assigned to the pediment. In this case, before sheathing the gable of the house, it is important to provide for high-quality wall insulation.
To protect the walls of the house and the under-roof space from moisture, the pediment should be trimmed with moisture-resistant material, which will increase the tightness of the structure.
The sheathing layer on the pediment also performs aesthetic functions. It depends on how you sew the pediment how beautiful the whole house will look.

Sheathing materials

It is up to you to decide how to decorate your house. If the work will be done by hand, then in addition to beauty and practicality, the material should be easily and quickly mounted. That is why the following materials are most often used for self-plating this part of the house:

lining;
corrugated board;
vinyl siding.

Some craftsmen manage to sheathe the gable part of their house with moisture-resistant plywood, OSB or drywall, and then plaster and paint it with facade paints. But this option is not very durable and practical. You can also find gables made of opaque polycarbonate. However, this option can hardly boast of high heat and sound insulation characteristics.

Clapboard lining

If you want to choose a cheaper material for sheathing, then there is nothing better lining. This product is suitable for do-it-yourself installation, has a pleasant color (although it can be painted in the desired shade), and also stands out for the beautiful texture of natural wood.

Sheathing the gable of the house with a board (lining) is carried out according to wooden frame from a beam. Nails and screws are used as fasteners. When installing the lining, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

Since wood is exposed to microorganisms, it needs additional protective treatment with antiseptic compounds.
To protect against burning, the lining and frame are treated with flame retardants.
Any protective composition needs to be re-applied after 1-2 years.
To protect the material from the negative effects of atmospheric moisture, the boards should be painted with a suitable paint and varnish composition.
The lining has a convenient tenon-groove fastening, which greatly simplifies and speeds up installation.
If the pediment is sheathed with an overlap board, you get a beautiful herringbone finish.

Important: without protective coatings, the clapboard finish can last a maximum of 5 years, after which the appearance of the material will deteriorate and it will begin to collapse. With protective treatment, the service life of the lining reaches 20 years, provided that the coating is regularly updated.

siding finish

Sheathing a pediment with vinyl siding with your own hands is no more difficult than clapboard. This material is distinguished by reasonable price and practicality. It is more durable than lining, and does not need regular updating of the protective coating. Such a sheathing is suitable for a frame-type pediment, for a house made of timber, logs, bricks, concrete, stone and cellular concrete. Siding is mounted on a frame made of timber or metal profiles.

You should know that in addition to the siding itself, to finish the gable, you will need additional elements, start and finish strips, connecting profiles, an inner and outer corner, a window strip and a J-profile. In addition, it is worth remembering that vinyl siding is not mounted directly on the wall. Between it and the enclosing structure, whether it be a wall or a heater between the racks of the frame, there must be a ventilation gap that will not allow condensate to collect under the finish.

Some of the benefits of siding include:

Impressive service life. This finish can last up to 50 years.
Acceptable price. The most acceptable cost for vinyl siding, metal and asbestos-cement options will be a little more expensive.
Large selection of colors, textures and design options. Thanks to this, you can easily choose the finishes for the overall style and color of the house.
High moisture resistance. The material is not afraid of precipitation. It can even be washed if necessary.
Finishing is not subject to damage by microorganisms and insects.
This material is easy to maintain, since it does not need any impregnation, painting. To refresh the facade, it is enough to wash it with water from a hose.

Attention: since vinyl panels are subject to thermal expansion, it is very important to properly install the product. To do this, it is necessary to leave gaps for the deformation expansion of the material and not fasten the self-tapping screws too tightly.

Sheathing with corrugated board

No less cheaply and quickly can sheathe the gable of the house with corrugated board. This product is made of thin galvanized steel with a polymer coating. To increase the strength, profile ridges are made on the sheet, which act as stiffeners. Wall corrugated board (beech marking “C”) is suitable for sheathing the pediment, which has the most reasonable price.

With this material, it is possible to veneer the gable part of the house made of brick, cellular concrete, logs or timber. It is attached to a special frame using self-tapping screws with sealing gaskets.

Among the advantages of this material it is worth listing the following:

Significant dimensions of one sheet and low weight significantly speed up and simplify the installation process.
The coating is not afraid of moisture, resistant to corrosion, damage by microorganisms, fading. The material is resistant to mechanical stress and temperature extremes.
At a price, corrugated board will cost less than siding.
On sale you can find products with different profile configurations and different colors of the polymer coating, so you can easily choose the option that suits your home.
During installation, a minimum of scraps is obtained, which is an additional savings point.
Installation of corrugated board is so simple that even a beginner can cope with this task.

Tip: for finishing the walls of the house and its gable part, it is better to use corrugated board with a sheet thickness of at least 1.5 mm. Thinner products are easier to bend and deform during installation.

Since the profiled sheet itself has low sound insulation, during its installation it is better to lay heat-insulating material between the racks of the frame, which will additionally insulate the under-roof space and protect it from the rumble that occurs due to the impact of drops during rain. over thermal insulation material A vapor barrier membrane must be attached to protect against moisture and condensate.

When finishing the facade, you will have to think about how to sheathe the gable with siding. Siding is a very relevant facade material, which today is the most used in low-rise construction. The main feature of siding is an excellent balance of price and quality. Among the owners of private houses, this material has also earned recognition for its simplicity and speed of installation. This article will tell you how to qualitatively finish the upper part of the building with your own hands.

A pediment is the front part of a building between two roof slopes and a cornice. The original purpose of its existence is to protect the roof from premature wear. Today, residential buildings are often arranged in this part of the house. attic floors therefore, the pediment needs doubly protection. It may have a different shape.

Most often it looks like a triangle or a trapezoid, but it can be a multi-stage shape or even a semicircle. The size of this part of the house varies from half a meter to two meters in height if the attic space is not used as a living space, and more than two meters if living quarters are arranged there. The eye is always drawn to this part of the house, therefore, in addition to the protective properties, the finish should be aesthetic.

Unusual decoration pediment

Materials and tools for finishing the gable with siding

Siding coatings give the most beneficial effect in finishing. They can sheathe a house, including its gables, inexpensively and quickly. If compared with facade slabs, the installation of which may require special high-rise fixtures, the siding is easy to fix alone. The most common types of siding are metal and vinyl panels. Each material has its pros and cons. You can choose any of them, as your finish will not be affected in any way. We list the main quality characteristics vinyl and metal siding in comparison.

Comparative characteristics of vinyl and metal coating

Vinyl siding is made of PVC with the addition of additives to improve the quality of the material, and metal siding is made of metal with a polymer coating that adds protection to the metal profile. Each of them, with appropriate quality, has a warranty period of at least 30 years. Metal siding manufacturers give a guarantee of up to 50 years. During this period, the panels do not wear out and do not lose their properties.
Both materials do not allow moisture to pass through, which is very important for this part of the building.
Frost resistance is high for both vinyl and metal siding. The metal is higher, but this is understandable - PVC, if not properly handled or installed incorrectly, can crack in the cold. On the other hand, the pediment is high and is practically not subject to mechanical stress. Therefore, it can be considered that both materials are suitable for areas with low temperatures.
Susceptibility to temperature changes is the lowest in metal siding. But if you correctly perform the thermal expansion gaps during installation, then there will be no problems with vinyl. It does not deform during operation and will not crack.
Preservation of the original shade for the entire period of use, manufacturers promise two types of material.
The cost of steel siding is slightly higher, but it pays off with a long service life.

Do-it-yourself gable siding

There are two things to think about before making a decision. Metal is still heavier. The panel weighs up to 4 kg. Mounting it alone to a height will be a little more difficult than mounting vinyl elements. Another feature concerns PVC panels, they do not burn, but melt at a temperature of 500 degrees.

Whatever material you choose to finish the part of the house between the slopes of the roof, any will have its advantages.

The pediment sheathed with siding will be reliably protected from moisture and wind.
It's nice and neat.
This finish does not require constant care.
She will not cost you a pretty penny.

Calculation of wall panels

The calculation can be entrusted to a calculator or managers who will sell you the material, but some measurements must be taken in any case:

For gable roof it is necessary to measure the height and width of the surface;
For multi-pitched mansard roof we measure: the width of the roof, the height to each fracture and the width between them, we will also need the height from the fracture to the ridge.

Measuring the number of siding parts

If you want to do the calculation yourself, then it is done like this:

For the first type, the width must be multiplied by the height and divided by 2.
For the attic, arithmetic is a little more complicated. You need to add the width of the roof to the width between the fractures and divide by 2. Now multiply by the height before the fracture. We will make the following calculation by multiplying the width between the fractures by the height to the ridge, and multiply the product by 2. Now add the two values obtained and get the surface area that will need to be sheathed.

Types of additional elements for sheathing

For full cladding, to finish every corner and fold of the surface, you will need additional parts. Their number and names will depend on the type of roof. The easiest way is to take a picture of the pediment and show it to the specialists of the company that will sell the finish. If in doubt, ask the finishing company. Perhaps everything will become clear to you after studying the installation instructions that we provide in this article. Types of additional or decorative elements can be seen in the figure, which shows an approximate installation of siding with a gable roof.

A set of tools and auxiliary materials for cladding

In addition to the required amount of siding, you will need a classic set of tools for installing vinyl or metal siding. This is a hacksaw with fine teeth, a screwdriver, a knife-cutter, metal shears, a level, coated twine, a plumb line, a ruler and a square, a drill. It is possible that you will need a punch to make additional holes in the material, because you cannot screw the fastener directly into the part. Of the fasteners, self-tapping screws of different lengths may be required, but not less than 35 mm and not less than 8 mm in diameter. If the walls are brick or concrete, then you will need a dowel - nails. To fix heat-insulating plates, purchase fasteners with large hats - “fungi”.

The siding is laid on the crate, so you need to calculate and buy material for it. It can be wooden bars or a galvanized metal profile for outdoor use. You will need brackets to install the frame on the wall. And finally, the heater. It is worth buying a high-quality heat insulator, it can be polyurethane foam or mineral wool. The number of slabs is necessary based on surface area calculations.

Standard set of tools

Installation sequence

Surface preparation

Work on preparing the surface for installation is quite familiar. Clean the wall of the old finish, if it is not to be sheathed new house. Not only the old skin must be removed, but also the protruding parts. For example, if there are windows, then dismantle the platbands and ebbs on them. Possible balconies must be cleaned and swept from debris, and cashing is removed on the doors.

Stone walls do not need to be leveled, but it is advisable to go through a special primer that will protect against mold, stone destruction and other troubles. The tree must be cleaned and impregnated with an antiseptic and soil for the tree.

Manufacturing of crates

Now let's start assembling the frame. This is done from a wooden beam 40x60 mm or a little more, for example, 50x70 mm. The tree is cut to size and impregnated with an antiseptic. It is better to cover the bars with drying oil, then the crate will last longer without rotting. Installation is carried out using fasteners that match the material of the walls. Mounting directly to the wall or on brackets is possible. When fixing the planks, use the building level.

Advice! Never use old boards to make a frame. The tree must be clean, dry, so that it does not change size after installation. On the surface of the bars there should be no rot and blackness.

Vertical framing device

Instead of a wooden block, a metal profile made of galvanized steel is used. If you are going to attach light vinyl siding, then an aluminum drywall profile is allowed - it is lightweight and does not carry a load on the facade and foundation. Metal carcass will last longer, it does not need additional processing and is lighter than wood. True, it is more expensive, but it is compensated by the duration of use.

The grate can be installed vertically if the siding is with horizontal fasteners.

If you are going to install vertical siding or make a mixed finish of horizontal and vertical siding, then the grating needs to be made horizontal or mixed, respectively.

Horizontal framing device

Warming

Thermal insulation can be of two types, it all depends on the use of the attic space. If there is a living room, then the insulation must be made complete and of high quality. For this, foam, polystyrene foam or mineral wool slabs are used. It is best to mount mineral wool. This modern insulation which breathes and perfectly protects rooms from noise and cold. In summer, mineral wool boards protect from heat, which is very important for the roof structure.

Thermal insulation is laid between the battens of the crate, and fasteners are made on the "fungi". A windscreen must be placed on top. It will be an additional protective layer for the material of walls and interior rooms.

After installation, mineral wool must be covered with wind protection using staples.

Step-by-step guide to finishing the gable with siding

Now it's time to start installing the siding elements.

We begin work with the installation of the starting profile at the base of the roof. This is one of the most critical steps in the entire installation. The rest of the process depends on how smoothly the starting bar is screwed. If the skew goes, then all the panels will be installed unevenly and not only the aesthetics will suffer, but also the integrity of the facade. Do not be lazy, always check the level when you screw this element. When screwing any part, try to keep the perfect vertical, as even a small bevel can lead to the destruction of the entire skin or a crack in the panel.

Important! Never screw fasteners all the way in. You should always leave 1.5-2 mm for thermal expansion.

Proper siding installation

Framing the gable with siding panels should be done taking into account thermal expansion

On the pediment there are details that are almost always made of wood and need protection - these are wind boards. For their sheathing, there is a siding additional element - a chamfer. The sequential process of finishing the wind boards is well shown in the figure.

Making wind boards with a chamfer

It should be noted once again that we must not forget about the thermal expansion of materials. Before installation, be sure to take the siding elements outside for several hours. Sheathing the gable with siding is still high-altitude work. Protect yourself from falling with a reliable ladder, and possibly a climbing belt.

Video: Instructions for sheathing the gable with siding panels

Now you know how to sheathe the gable with siding and you can do it efficiently and beautifully. The main thing is to follow the sequence of work and installation tips.

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The space in the upper part of the wall of the house, between the ceiling and the slopes of the roof, is called the gable. They can be varied in form:

The surface of the pediment can be both deaf and with the presence of window and attic openings. Gables are often made insulated to reduce heat loss through the ceiling. Sheathe them as in the process repair work as well as during construction.
Vinyl siding is the most commonly used material for cladding facades and gables of a house. This is due to its low cost, variety of assortment, durability and ease of installation.
Finishing the gable with siding does not require much time and effort. Following the manufacturer's instructions, it is possible to do the installation yourself.

Preparatory work: the choice of materials

To prevent technical incidents, it is necessary to take the preparatory work seriously.

It is difficult and inconvenient to install siding panels from the stairs, you will need to install scaffolding.
Prepare a flat area for placing the siding in a horizontal position.
Purchase the necessary tools for work: a building level, a screwdriver, metal shears, a hammer, a tape measure, a plumb line, a jigsaw or a hacksaw, a construction square.
Calculate the required amount of material. Typically, the manufacturer indicates on the packaging what area this amount is calculated for. It is necessary to add 10% to the required quantity - a margin for marriage and cutting.

Exterior vinyl siding

Advantages and disadvantages:

The disadvantages include:

instability to mechanical influences;
no gaps during installation, which leads to deformation under the influence of temperature differences.

Each company uses its own production technologies, and therefore the thickness plastic panels may differ. Therefore, it is advisable to purchase additional material and ordinary siding from the same manufacturer.

For installation you will need:

ordinary siding;
starting profile for fastening the bottom of the first ordinary panel;
J-profile for installing siding around window and door openings;
H-profile for joining siding panels along the length;
corner elements for high-quality and aesthetic design of corners;
finishing strips to complete the design of the structure, closing ordinary siding panels from the ends.

Hardware

An important role is played by the choice of fastening material. Nails or self-tapping screws are used to fix the siding.
At a price, nails are much more affordable than galvanized self-tapping screws, but they have a number of disadvantages:

inconvenience of installation and dismantling. Siding panels are unstable to mechanical stress, and an inaccurate hammer blow can easily break their integrity;
over time, the fixation may loosen and lead to loosening, which will affect the appearance of the structure.

Self-tapping screws with the advent of a screwdriver are widely used. Their advantages include:

quick and easy installation;
the presence of a thread, which contributes to reliable fixation;
it is easy to adjust the degree of pressing the siding panel to the crate;
if necessary, it is possible to dismantle the finishing material without violating its safety.

Preference should be given to galvanized self-tapping screws with a flat head, the length of which should be at least 30 mm. To prevent the appearance of rust in the attachment points, special rubberized washers are used.
Knowing the area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment, it is easy to calculate the required amount of fixing material. In horizontal panels, the fastening step is 25-30 cm. H-profiles, J-profiles and corner elements are fastened in 40 cm increments. The average number of self-tapping screws required is per 10 square meters. m - 160 pieces.

Installation work

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the pediment of the building:

delete everything decorative elements protruding beyond the plane of the wall;
loose finishes, especially falling off, to update or completely remove;
the wooden facade must be checked for the reliability of fastening the boards and treated with antiseptic impregnations that prevent the appearance of mold and fungus;
it is better to give a new building time to shrink before starting to decorate the pediment.

crate

The crate is a support for fastening siding panels. The appearance of the finished roof and cornice depends on the degree of evenness of the surface on which the siding is attached. Therefore, it is required to perform it in an ideal plane.

The presence of the crate is also necessary to accommodate the heat-insulating material and the hydro-vapor barrier. About 30% of heat loss occurs through the roof.
The gap formed by the crate between the wall of the house and the siding panels promotes ventilation, reduces the formation of condensate, thereby normalizing the humidity in the room.

The crate of the pediment can be made of a wooden beam or a metal profile.
If preference is given wooden beam, it should be borne in mind that its humidity should be no more than 15%, the optimal section is 50 * 60 mm. To prevent corrosion, mold and insects, it must first be impregnated with an antiseptic solution.
When installing vinyl siding, the recommended distance between the pitches of the crate should be 40-60 cm. In areas prone to strong winds, it is desirable to reduce the pitch of the crate.

If the choice is made in favor of metal, it is necessary to choose a galvanized profile with stiffeners.
For fixing a metal profile to the base, brackets or suspensions are used.

They begin to mount the crate at the same time from two sides. A rope is pulled between the extreme profiles, which serves as a guide for observing the horizontal plane.
Then install the brackets on which the profile will be mounted. If the pediment is insulated, a heat-insulating layer and a vapor barrier are laid, after which the remaining profiles are installed.

If there are window and attic openings on the gable, the profile is additionally installed along the perimeter of the openings.

After installation is completed, be sure to check compliance with the plane using a level.

The cost of a wooden crate is an order of magnitude lower. It will not be difficult to do it with your own hands.

To facilitate the work, the timber must be chosen even, dried (wet wood deforms over time and will lead the entire structure), impregnated with an anti-corrosion solution. It is advisable to use a timber according to the size of the gable of the roof.

If thermal insulation is not provided, then the crate can be attached to the base of the gable. To do this, the timber is pre-drilled and mounted to the wall through the holes obtained. Wedges are placed to maintain the plane.
If a heater is provided, the brackets are fixed according to the markup, then a layer of thermal insulation and a hydrobarrier are laid.
First of all, the extreme bars are installed, and the cord is pulled, which serves as a guideline for maintaining the plane.
After fixing the remaining timber. If there are window openings on the pediment of the house, an additional timber is attached around the perimeter.

Rules for fastening siding panels

Siding is subject to linear expansion in length under the influence of temperature changes. A three-meter panel, installed at an ambient temperature of +5 0, is extended by 12 mm in summer. These features of vinyl must be considered when cutting. The manufacturer indicates possible changes in parameters on the packaging. It will not be difficult to calculate the required size when making a cornice with your own hands.
So that the siding can freely expand and contract, the strip is measured by 1.5 cm smaller size gable. Leave a gap of at least 1 mm between the screw head and the siding. You need to install the hardware in the middle of the hole that is used to fix the panel. Failure to comply with these requirements leads to deformation of the cladding of the house.

Installation of plastic panels

When arranging the roof and eaves with siding, for the first time it is better to start with a blank gable. At the level of the ceiling, you need to install a low tide. Fasten it with press washers to each profile of the crate and along the end to increase rigidity. If present window hole, you first need to put slopes and low tide on it. All edges must be flared to prevent moisture from getting behind the frame of the batten. Install a J-profile around the opening.
Above the ebb, a starting bar is attached, the position of which must be strictly horizontal. When installing several starting strips, 10 mm is left between them.
The next step is to set the internal corners.

On this preparatory work for the installation of siding with their own hands are finished. You can start installing vinyl panels on the gable of the house.
To cut the siding, you can use a grinder, but in this case you have to raise it to the level of the roof of the house electric wires. In this case, scissors are used for convenience. In order not to have to measure the angle of the roof for each panel, it is advisable to make a template. But keep in mind that the slope of each slope may be different, you need to make two templates, left and right.

At correct installation vinyl panels should sound a characteristic click. The very last panel needs to be decorated with a finishing bar and decorated with a corner element. The roof overhangs are sheathed last.
All houses with sloping roofs are equipped with cornices. Usually the length of the cornice is from 40 cm to a meter. Protecting the roof and walls of the house from rain and snow is the main function of the eaves. For its sheathing, soffits are used, which have ventilation holes in their design, which contribute to the ventilation of the space under the roof. Decorating the eaves with siding begins with the installation of the frame. It must be assembled in two perpendicular planes, at right angles to each other. After sheathing the eaves with siding, you need to close the cut joints with a finishing profile and a J-bevel.
If you follow all the recommendations indicated by the siding manufacturer, do-it-yourself roof eaves sheathing will take a little time and effort.

How to sheathe a gable with siding

Siding pediment - a beautiful and practical solution

Decorative finish of the pediment

How to make a pediment lining in the Provence style?

The main features of the Provence architectural style are light colors, simplicity and clarity of lines, and a friendly family atmosphere. To finish such a house, materials that are democratic in price and impeccable in quality are chosen. The siding meets these criteria quite well. It is durable, has all the necessary characteristics to ensure proper protection of the walls of the building.

Provence style house facade

Vinyl siding

Vinyl siding shades

The upper part of the building, the pediment, is visible from afar. It is she who creates the first impression of the house and its owners. Therefore, this stage of finishing work must be carried out as carefully as possible, guided by detailed step-by-step instructions based on the experience and recommendations of specialists.

Materials needed for sheathing the gable with siding

An important point in finishing work of any kind is the choice of the main material and components. There is one immutable rule, the implementation of which eliminates many troubles during installation. It says: all trim elements must be purchased from one manufacturer.

Vinyl Siding Docke

Vinyl siding "Alta-Profile"

FineBer siding

In this case, the buyer receives several advantages:

all details will be adjusted to the millimeter;
it becomes possible to choose the most successful color scheme;
in case of shortage of material, it can be purchased in addition without fear of significant differences in color shades.

There is another important point when choosing a material that you need to be aware of. The cladding structure must include exactly those elements that are recommended by the manufacturer. Replacement with equivalent parts, but of a different type, will certainly bring dissonance to the appearance of the building and increase the complexity and complexity of installation.

Basic and additional elements of siding

Additional elements for covering the pediment

Starting plank	Installed first, it is a long narrow canvas to which the lower edge of the first panel is attached.
	Drains water from the basement of the building.
Connecting strip or H-profile	A detail that allows you to close the joints between horizontally laid siding panels and soffits, provides an aesthetically attractive appearance of the joints.
Narrow window bar (otherwise called "window profile")	It is intended for finishing window openings, the width of which is less than 14 cm. It has a rather complex profile, including elements of a slope and a platband.
Wide sill	Designed for finishing window and door openings with a slope width of more than 14 cm.
Plank J-Trim (in the language of experts - "jake")	It is installed along the perimeter of window and door openings, any vertical and horizontal sections, junctions along the inclined line of the wall and roof, for filing and fixing spotlights.
platband	It is used for sheathing window openings located on the same plane with the walls of the building.
outside corner Inner corner	Designed to cover and hold the ends of the siding panels on the inner and outer corners of the house. When sheathing gables, they are used if the area to be finished has a complex relief: ledges and niches relative to the plane of the walls.
finish plank	It is an element with which the installation of the facing structure is completed. It is installed above the last, top panel of the skin. When finishing the pediment, it is necessary if the roof slope has a complex shape, including horizontal sections.
F profile	These thin strips are necessary for joining different trim elements and masking gaps.
	Panels intended for filing the inside of the roof overhang.
wind board	Provides wind protection for the attic.

Correct calculation of the amount of materials for sheathing the gable with siding

In the case of gables, everything is much more complicated, since these building elements can have a complex architectural form. But in most cases there are two types:

have the shape of a regular triangle;
have a trapezoidal shape.

triangular pediment

Regardless of the type of construction, before starting measurements and calculations, you need to find out what is the area of one siding panel. To do this, its length is multiplied by its width.

Calculation example.

On average, vinyl siding panels are 3.05 m long and 24 cm wide. From different manufacturers, you can find lamellas with a width of 17.9 cm, 20.5 cm, 23.2 cm, 25.6 cm. Armed with a calculator, and multiply 3 .05 m x 0.24 m. We get 0.732 m2. This is the area of one siding panel.

Next, you need to perform a series of measurements. To do this, you will need a tape measure, paper and a pencil. It is most convenient to take measurements with the help of modern laser roulettes. These instruments are also referred to as "laser rangefinders". The principle of working with them is simple: you need to install a tape measure at the starting point of the measurement and direct the beam to the point to which you want to measure the distance. Good reviews about inexpensive, but high-quality devices LEICA Disto D2 and Mettro СONDTROL 60.

Laser rangefinder

Determination of the number of siding panels for triangular gables

Measure the base (lower horizontal line) of the triangular pediment. They get an "A".
Measure the height: project the top of the triangle onto the base and measure the distance between these two points. They get a "B".
Find the area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment according to the following formula: ½ A x B.
Divide the gable area by the area of one siding panel. A number is obtained indicating the number of panels required for sheathing. All calculations are made in m2.

Calculation example.

The base of the pediment is 3.45 m. The height is 3.8 m. The area of one panel is 0.732 m2.

We calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe triangular pediment: ½ x 3.45 m x 3.8 m = 6.55 m2.
We calculate the required number of panels: 6.55 m2: 0.732 m2 = 8.948. Rounding up, we get 89.5. This is the number of siding panels required to cover a gable that is 3.45 m long and 3.8 m high.

Determination of the number of siding panels for trapezoidal gables

Calculation of siding on a trapezoidal gable

Measure the length of the gable base (b).
Measure the length of the upper horizontal line of the roof (a).
Measure the height of the pediment: project the break point of the roof onto the base and calculate the distance between these two points (h).
Calculate the area of a trapezoid using the formula: ½ x (a + b) x h.
Divide the resulting figure by the area of one panel.

Calculation example:

b = 6 m;
a = 3 m;
h = 1.8 m.

½ x (6+3) x 1.8 = 8.1 m2

8.1 m2: 0.732 m2 = 11.06

We find out that 110.6 siding panels are needed to cover a trapezoidal gable of these sizes.

Determining the number of siding panels for complex architectural gables

Calculation of siding on a broken gable

First of all, find out the area of \u200b\u200bwindow openings. To do this, measure their length and height.
After that, these figures are multiplied.
Record the resulting value.
Similarly, they do with all the windows on the pediment.
The final stage is the summation of the obtained indicators. This will be the total area of all windows.

Next, you need to subtract from this figure the total area of window openings obtained at the first stage of work. As a result, the area to be covered with siding will be found. After that, it will be easy to calculate the number of panels required to complete this task. The process is similar to that described in the sections on triangular and trapezoidal gables.

Determination of the amount of materials for sheathing eaves and gable overhangs

Arrows show overhangs

measure the length of the cornice overhangs;
measure the width of the cornice overhangs (the part that protrudes beyond the pediment);
all indicators obtained as a result of measurements must be converted into running meters;
then you need to find the total area of \u200b\u200bthe cornice overhangs, alternately calculating the area of \u200b\u200beach ledge;
a similar procedure is performed for gable overhangs.

Roof lining option

Rules and features of the connections of additional elements for sheathing the gable

Gap between the head of the screw and the nail strip

To connect the finishing elements with each other, the so-called "locks" are used: curly protrusions on the side of the products, which is opposite to the perforated plank. Locks of different elements have different shapes. This is necessary in order to ensure the best possible connection of the trim panels.

Siding panel lock

Installing siding around openings

Proper installation of siding involves the implementation of several simple, but mandatory rules.

When fastening panels and accessories to the bearing surface, you should try to screw the screws into the middle of the holes in the nail strip.
It is impossible to attract the panels with self-tapping screws so that they are in maximum contact with the edge of the crate. According to the installation rules, there should be a small gap between the screw head and the nail strip, at least 1 mm wide, but not more than 1.5 mm wide. This requirement is connected with the need to provide the material with "free movement" under the influence of expansion and compression forces.
All products are attached to the walls only through the holes in the nail strip.
When mounting adjacent elements, it is necessary to trim the nail strip of one of them so that a gap of at least 5 mm wide is formed.
For installation of vinyl and metal siding, galvanized fasteners are used.

Siding fixing rules

Tools needed for gable siding

Since the pediment is the upper part of the building, the work will have to be done at a height. Therefore, first of all, you need to take care of the availability of durable stairs. At least two are needed, as this will eliminate the constant movement of one staircase from one corner of the house to another. The best option is the device of bridges along which it will be possible to move when performing work.

Stepladders and scaffolds

Construction scaffolding envelope

It is important to choose the most convenient tool for trimming siding. There are three options for completing this task:

using a hacksaw for metal with a fine tooth;
Hacksaw with fine teeth
using scissors for metal;
Metal shears

Siding cut with scissors
using a jigsaw equipped with a fine-toothed metal saw.
Cutting siding with a jigsaw

All these tools allow you to get a smooth saw cut without chipping. Each master chooses for himself the way of working with the material that is most convenient and accessible for him.

Bulgarian for cutting siding

Electric saw for cutting siding

Building level

From auxiliary tools, you can prepare the following:

plumb;
pliers;
hammer;
rubber or wooden mallet;
marker.

The right choice of tools, materials and equipment makes installing vinyl siding much easier.

For screwing galvanized screws, a battery-powered screwdriver is most convenient. It is not “tied” to the mains, so there will be no need for various kinds of carrying and wires. The best choice is a screwdriver with two replaceable batteries. The presence of an additional one will avoid interruptions in work necessary to recharge a dead battery.

screwdriver

How to properly mount the frame under the siding

Beam for crates

Beam for assembling the crate

metal profile

Suspension straight

Rules for mounting the frame for siding

Hangers are installed in such a way that the step between them does not exceed 60 cm.
The upper and lower suspensions should be no further than 15 cm from the edge of the wall, and no closer than 5 cm.
If wooden blocks are used, their preparation is necessary: high-quality drying and coating with an ogebioprotective solution.
The step between the supporting racks of the frame must correspond to the width of the insulation being laid. Optimal - 50-60 cm.
For brick surfaces, pre-drilling holes for suspensions will be required. First, they put the appropriate marks on the wall, after which they perform the task with the help of a drill and a drill with a victorious solder.

Frame mounting scheme

The location of the crate depending on the type of siding

Preparatory work

The beginning of work on the installation of the lathing - the preparation of the gable and roof overhangs.

Step 1. First of all, the old finishing material is removed: wind boards, ebbs, lining. To perform this task, use any convenient tools: mount, hammer, pliers.

Windshield needs to be removed

Step 2 The roofing material is cut flush with the gable overhangs. Choose tools that match the material of the roof. If it is a metal tile, use a grinder with a circle for metal. If it is slate, you will need a hammer, a grinder with a stone disc, wire cutters. If uneven protrusions or chips remain after trimming, do not worry: subsequently they will be covered with trim elements: droppers.

Trim the slate

Step 3 They do everything necessary to level the wall and overhangs: they remove or cut down all those protruding parts that can be removed without catastrophic consequences for the building.

Do all the preparatory work before installing the siding

Fronton before finishing - photo

Beating the plane of the pediment

Pediment sheathing device

Step 1 Installing the Bottom Rail

To determine the plane of the skin, a laser level is most convenient. This device is installed at the lowest point of one of the corners of the gable and directs the beam to the opposite side. It is important to install the device so that the new plane is at least 4 cm away from the bearing wall. Turning on the device, make marks at the points indicated by the laser.

Sawing timber for crates

In order to build a new plane with the help of bars and improvised tools, proceed as follows:

choose such a number of even bars so that their total length corresponds to the length of the gable base;
take two small bars of the same section, but at least 3 cm thick, and drill through holes in them;
Hold the drill perpendicular to the beam
a self-tapping screw is screwed into each bar so that the tip of the fastener protrudes from the back of the bar by 5-7 mm;
each bar is alternately applied to the corner point of the pediment in the area of \u200b\u200bthe junction of the wall and the ebb (the lower ledge hanging over the bearing walls);
mark with a marker the place of contact between the tip of the self-tapping screw and the wall;
holes are drilled at these points (if the wall is brick, a drill with a diamond or victorious tip is needed);
When drilling a wall, the drill should be kept level.
insert plastic dowels into the holes (if necessary, knocking with a hammer);
apply the bars to the wall and attract them with self-tapping screws;
Fastening the beam to the wall
take a self-tapping screw 1-1.5 cm long and screw it halfway into the middle of one of the bars;
tie a strong long thread to the self-tapping screw;
screw the self-tapping screw so that its cap is in contact with the bar;
pull the thread towards the second bar;
a self-tapping screw 1-1.5 cm long is screwed into it halfway;
pull the thread and wind it around the self-tapping screw;
screw a self-tapping screw into a bar;
focusing on the thread, intermediate bars of the same section are fixed in the same way (the outer plane of the bars must be set exactly along the thread);
the thread is removed and long even bars, selected at the preparatory stage of work, are attached to the installed bars;
at the junction of long bars, a short bar is sewn on top, thereby ensuring the strength of the lower guide.

Step 2 Locating the Top Rail

Regardless of whether the gable is triangular or trapezoidal, the installation of the upper rail begins with cutting its ends at an angle of 45 °. To do this, use a miter saw, jigsaw or hacksaw.

Sawing wood at an angle

Sequencing:

from the point of intersection of the ridge beam with the gable wall, a distance is measured equal to the width of the indent from the wall of the lower guide (from the wall to the outer plane of the bars);
put a mark with a marker;
apply a thread to this point, on which a plumb line is fixed;
ask the assistant if the load has come into contact with the outer plane of the lower guide;
gradually moving the thread, they find the point at which the plumb line will show that the vertical has been found;
make appropriate marks with a marker.

If the pediment has a trapezoidal shape, this work is done twice, at each intersection of the roof beams with the wall.

Step 3 Mounting the Top Rail

Self-tapping screws are screwed into bars with ends sawn at an angle of 45 ° so that their tips protrude from the back of the bar by 5-7 mm. Holes are drilled at the points found with a plumb line and plastic dowels are installed in them. After that, the upper guide is fixed. If necessary, the ridge beam is hemmed with a wooden die.

Step 4 Installing the Side Rails

Installation of the frame for siding

Step 1. Marking for hangers

Focusing on the above rules for mounting the crate, mark the gable for the installation of suspensions. To complete this work, you will need a plumb line, tape measure and marker.

From the corner point at which the lower guide and the roof overhang intersect, the distance selected, depending on the width of the insulation, recedes. If it is not planned to insulate the gable, then the optimal step is 40-60 cm.
Put a mark on the lower guide with a marker.
A thread with a plumb line is applied to the adjacent side guide and the point of contact of the load with the mark on the bottom guide is found.
A line of thread is projected onto the wall and marks are made along it with a marker, taking into account that the top and bottom are no closer than 5 cm to the wooden (metal) contour of the crate. Step between intermediate points 50-60 cm.
From the mark on the lower rail, they measure 40-60 cm towards the opposite corner of the house and perform a similar sequence of work: using a plumb line, they find the vertical and mark along this line with a marker.
Thus, they mark the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment

markup

Step 2. Preparing holes for mounting hangers

When choosing a tool, consider the scope of work

Step 3. Mounting hangers

We fix the suspensions

Direct suspension ready for mounting PP

Step 4. Installing the supporting racks of the frame

Focusing on the vertical line of the suspensions, measure the distance between the bottom and side rails.
Saw off a bar (or cut off a metal profile) of the desired length.
Cut (cut off) the upper end of the rack at the desired angle.
In order to facilitate the further execution of this work, a saw cut template is prepared. They take a flat wooden block, apply it to the side guide and draw a slope line. Cut off (cut off) excess. This template can be used to correct the ends of all the following bearing posts that will be adjacent to this side rail.
For each suspension located along the rack installation line, side perforated strips are bent.
Install the lower end of the bar (metal profile) on the lower guide.
This rack of the frame is wound up between the side rails of the suspensions.
Using self-tapping screws, the upper end of the bar is attached to the side rail.
Fastening profiles to hangers
With the help of SMM 3.5 / 51 self-tapping screws for a metal profile or wood screws for wooden bars, the rack is attached to the suspensions.
Similarly, vertical racks are installed along the entire gable line.

Sheathing for siding

Wooden crate

Step 5. Mounting the roof eaves sheathing

Frame for mounting spotlights with additional support

Sheathing of window and door openings

There are several options for finishing window and doorways. The choice of the optimal method depends on whether the installation of ebb and slopes is required, and on the characteristics of the components of a particular manufacturer. But the basic principles for installing trim elements are the same for all types of siding.

Waterproofing windows and doors

Framing openings with near-window profiles

Step 1. Taking measurements

A tape measure is used to take measurements. The results are recorded on a piece of paper. You need to know the following parameters:

the height of the inner line of the opening;
the height of the outer line of the opening;
opening depth (slope width);
opening bevel angle.

Step 2. Preparation of finishing elements

In accordance with the obtained dimensions, the window trim and the J-profile are cut. The most difficult task is to correctly cut out all the protrusions, which, when two near-window strips are joined, form the inner and outer corners of the slopes.

The profile of these additional elements (near-window strips) is quite complex, so you will have to repeatedly trim one or another part of the ends after fitting. It is recommended to saw off a near-window bar slightly larger than the height of the opening from a solid canvas. After obtaining a high-quality end cut, the panel can be shortened.

Step 3. Mounting the J-profile

Step 4. Installing the window trim

Gable window trim

Framing window and door openings with platbands

Framing arched and round windows

Sheathing the gable with siding

The sequence of works on the installation of siding

Step 1. Mounting the finish bar

If the pediment has a trapezoidal shape, the finishing strips are installed only along the side rails, leaving the top free.

Installing the J-profile on the forceps

We fix the J-profile

J-profile joint

Step 2. Preparing to fix the starting bar

Step 3 Attaching the Starter Bar

The photo shows how the drain bar, H-profile, starting strip were fixed

Gable corner

Installed low tide and starting bars

General view of the gable, ready for siding

Step 2. Installing the first siding panel

In this work, it is important to follow one rule: never pull up the siding so that it is in maximum contact with the underlying panel. Between them it is necessary to leave a gap 2-3 mm wide.

The ends of the siding panels must be brought into the side finish strips. The panels are connected horizontally either with an overlap or with an H-shaped profile.

Temperature gaps

Step 3. Further set of siding

Template making and siding installation

Installation of siding panels

Installing siding in narrow spaces

Panel fixing

Panel set

Under the window, everything is about the same - the uppermost bar is cut to size and simply snaps onto the lower siding lock

Screw the bolts into the center of the holes

Installing siding under a cornice or soffit

Cutting panels at an angle

Fronton finishing process

Installing the top row under the gable

It remains to fix the triangle

Last triangle

The only time you can attach a siding panel right through the vinyl is the last panel.

If the pediment is trapezoidal, a finishing bar is attached to the upper rail of the frame. After that, the installation of the last siding panel is carried out. It may need to be trimmed.

Gable cladding with vertical siding

Soffit installation

Modern soffit systems consist of 4 elements:

soffit panel with perforation;
soffit panel without perforation;
J-profile (for some manufacturers, this product is called a "finishing bar");
connecting strip.

Step 1. Mounting the J-profile

Step 2. Installing spotlights

Vinyl spotlights

Roof eaves lining

Soffit mounting options

If it is triangular in shape, a set of spotlights is carried out and they are fastened in the same way that was used when installing the siding panels. With the correct docking of the two spotlights, a characteristic click should be heard. Thanks to the locks, the panels are firmly connected to each other. But here, too, you need to follow the same rule as when installing siding: leave a gap of 2-3 mm wide between the trim elements.

The procedure for filing the roof with soffits

Soffit installation

Sheathing of roof eaves

If the pediment is trapezoidal or more complex, connecting strips are attached at the kinks and turns. With their help, lines of spotlights are joined together. The final stage of work is the installation of drips. They are attached to the outer cut of the roof slopes.

Installation of droppers

House after finishing the pediment

Video - How to sheathe a gable with siding part 1. Secrets of installing siding

Video - How to sheathe a gable with siding part 2. Secrets of installing siding

Video - Gable sheathing

If you are planning to sheathe a gable, you need to choose the right siding and calculate the amount of material. With heat-resistant, durable and sun-resistant siding, the facade of the building will be protected from UV radiation, moisture and mechanical damage.

Most often in Russia, vinyl and acrylic siding is used to finish the gables (photo No. 1)

We will tell you how to make a gable crate and sheathe it with siding with your own hands. Even if you hire workers, you will be able to control the quality of their work and notice possible errors.

Sheathing the gable with siding with your own hands begins with determining the shape of the gable and choosing the material. Gable - the upper part of the facade of the building. Its decoration is started at the end of construction or renovation of the facade.

The design of the pediment largely determines the appearance of the house, its front side. The method of finishing the upper part of the facade depends on how you use the under-roof space: you can create a living space under the roof or leave the attic non-residential.

Even if you hire workers, you will be able to control the quality of their work and notice possible mistakes (photo #2)

What are the functions of the pediment

The functions of the gable depend on how you intend to use the attic.

Design function
A pediment is an element of the frame of a building. It serves as a support for the beams and determines the stability of the roof. In winter, snow remains on the roof, which creates additional pressure on the floors. It is important that the frame can withstand the weight of the roof and additional load.

During construction, the pediment is given a different shape. The most commonly used shapes are triangle and pentagon. The triangular version is simple in construction, but reduces part of the under-roof space. A room with a pentagonal frame is more comfortable to live in, but such a structure is more difficult to build.

You can create under the roof living room or leave the attic empty (photo #3)

decorative function
The pediment defines the appearance of the building. If you want to highlight the gable in relation to the rest of the house, give it individual features, use a sheathing of a different color, texture, or change the direction of the planks: from horizontal to vertical.

The functionality and appearance of the pediment depend on the purpose of the room: a window is installed in the residential attic or a pediment balcony is mounted. Through the windows, daylight and fresh air enter the room. For non-residential premises, the installation of a window is optional.

If you want to highlight the gable in relation to the rest of the house, use a different color of siding (photo # 4)

Heat insulating function
If you use the space under the roof as a living room, then the gable needs to be insulated. You can lay insulation from the outside or inside building.

Most often, glass wool, mineral wool slabs, polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam are used to insulate the pediment. Each heater has its pros and cons. Glass wool is an inexpensive, fire-resistant material, but can cause allergies. Mineral slabs do not absorb moisture, are more environmentally friendly, but such sheathing will cost more than glass wool. Styrofoam is easy to assemble with your own hands, retains heat well, while being fire hazardous and easily destroyed. Expanded polystyrene is superior to polystyrene in terms of thermal insulation, fire safety and strength, but is more expensive than polystyrene.

If you use the space under the roof as a living room, then the gable needs to be insulated (photo # 5)

Protective function
The pediment protects the attic from moisture and wind. WITH outside pediment lay hydro-windproofing, make crate, sheathing and lay siding.

Types of siding for finishing the gable

Before you start covering the gable with siding with your own hands, you need to decide on the material. PVC panels, metal plates, wood and fiber cement are used to finish the pediment. Most often, for private houses, they choose the finish of polymer panels: vinyl and acrylic. Consider all options.

Vinyl siding
Decorative vinyl panels are the most popular type of sheathing. Vinyl does not rust, is plastic, weighs little. It is cheaper than other materials. If the pediment is located on the sunny side, choose light colors, they heat up less and fade.

Decorative vinyl panels - the most popular type of siding (photo # 6)

In cold winters, vinyl siding becomes brittle: if you hit it with a hard object, it can crack. To avoid damage to the vinyl, do not attach lights to the sheathing or lean heavy objects against it, such as ladders or garden tools.

Acrylic siding
If you decide to sheathe the pediment with bright, saturated or dark color choose acrylic siding. It is resistant to fading, does not deform when heated, and easily tolerates temperature changes. Acrylic panels do not rot or rust. Stronger than vinyl siding.

Acrylic panels are resistant to fading and easily tolerate temperature changes (photo # 7)

Vinyl and acrylic panels come in different lengths: 3 and 6 meters. Their design can be double and single. It is necessary to select the size of the panels, taking into account the features of the pediment: its size and the presence of a window.

foam siding
An improved version of vinyl siding. Lightweight facing material with a porous structure. Foam siding sheathing increases the thermal insulation of the gable, absorbs sound well and is not afraid of moisture.

The 14 mm thick panel has a solid base and is more resistant to mechanical damage than plain vinyl. Textured pattern 2 mm deep repeats the structure of the tree and looks more natural.

basement siding
Sturdy rectangular vinyl panels. Designed for finishing the lower part of the house, resistant to damage and any temperature changes. The design of facade panels can be “stone-like” and “brick-like”.

Plinth panels are resistant to damage, strong winds and any temperature changes (photo # 8)

If you want to add personality to the pediment, protect and insulate the residential attic, then basement siding is suitable. The disadvantage of such cladding is the high price of facade panels.

metal siding
The most durable finish. Aluminum and steel panels reinforce the outer part of the gable, protect from wind and moisture. To protect steel from corrosion, it is coated protective film, but rust may form in places of damage.

Metal conducts cold well. The pediment, sheathed with steel siding, is desirable to be insulated (photo No. 9)

The metal does not burn, but conducts cold well. If you use the attic as a living space and decide to finish the gable metal siding, you need to insulate its street side. Steel panels are much heavier than others. They are difficult to mount and they create an additional load on the frame. Another drawback: metal sheathing is more expensive than polymer counterparts.

wood siding
The tree looks beautiful and retains heat well, but requires additional processing. To preserve its qualities, you need to treat the wood with an antiseptic, varnish or protective impregnation.

fiber cement siding
The combination of cellulose and cement improves the thermal insulation of the pediment, protects the roof space from noise. The material is not afraid of moisture, does not burn and does not need additional processing. Manufacturers give cement different colors and textures: wood, brick or stone. Of the shortcomings - the high price.

Due to the heavy weight, fiber cement siding increases the load on the walls and foundation of the house (photo # 10)

To correctly calculate the volume of materials, you need to measure the gable. Take a construction tape measure and measure the base (lower part) and the height of the gable. If the attic has windows and a balcony, determine their area. To do this, multiply the sides. For example, you have a window whose height is 2 meters and its length is 1.5, then the window area will be 3 m².

After the calculations, draw a drawing of the pediment. Start with a shape: it can be triangular, pentagonal, semi-circular, or repeat the shape of a trapezoid. On the drawing, mark the windows and the balcony (if any).

A roof with a pentagonal pediment is called a broken line (photo No. 11)

If the pediment is built in the form of an isosceles triangle, calculate its area using the formula:

S=0.5×(pediment height×pediment base length)

Calculate the area of a triangular pediment 4 meters high and 6 meters long base. S=0.5(6×4)=12 m².

When calculating the material, subtract the window area from the gable area. In our example 12-3=9. To finish the gable with siding, we need 9 m² of material.

For a trapezoidal pediment, a different formula is used:

S=0.5×(lower base length+upper base length)×height

Let's take an example. The pediment in the form of a trapezoid has a lower base 5 meters long, an upper one - 3 meters. The height of the pediment is 4 meters. S=0.5(5+3)×4=16 m².

To calculate the area of a pentagonal pediment, you need to divide a complex figure into 2 parts: a trapezoid and a triangle. Calculate their areas using the above formulas, then add them up. So you get the total area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment.

Expert advice. In case of possible marriage or inaccuracies in the calculation, take the material with a margin of 10-15% of the calculated volume.

Features of installing siding on the gable of the house

A pediment is the top of a wall. To sheathe it with your own hands, you will need a ladder or scaffolding. Siding installation takes place in three stages: surface preparation, installation of the crate, fixing the panels. Let's talk about each stage.

Surface preparation

If you decide to update the appearance of the pediment, first remove the bumps, close up the cracks and cracks. Remove the old cladding, level the wall.

Treat the wooden pediment with an antiseptic and fire retardant. The antiseptic will protect the pediment from moisture and decay, flame retardant impregnation prevents fire. If you have a concrete or brick gable, you need to treat the surface with a deep penetration primer. It will protect the wall from mold and mildew.

The wooden pediment should be treated with an antiseptic and flame retardant (photo No. 13)

Expert advice. Before buying a primer, study its composition, find out for which materials it is suitable. Antiseptic for concrete, applied to wood flooring, will render the treated surface unusable.

Let the pediment dry. If you use the roof space as a living room, lay a vapor barrier.

Lathing installation

Without a crate, the unevenness of the wall violates the geometry of the cladding. If the surface has differences of 1 cm, the siding is deformed. The crate is needed to align the walls, it does not allow the panels to move and creates a ventilated gap between the sheathing and the wall. To keep warm in the attic, insulate the gable.

If you decide to lay the insulation outside, you need to properly position the materials. Fix the vapor barrier on the wall, fasten the first crate, fill the space with thermal insulation, lay waterproofing membrane, nail the second crate, attach the sheathing to it.

With this arrangement, a gap is created between the siding and the crate, which prevents the formation of condensate, protects from the cold and makes the structure resistant to temperature extremes.

For crating use:

wooden bars or boards;
profiles for fixing drywall;
metal P-profiles for siding.

For the installation of vinyl siding, a wooden crate is often chosen: if you need to level the facade, take bars of different thicknesses.

Do not use raw wood let it dry. Treat the timber with an antiseptic to protect against moisture and decay. If the surface of the pediment is flat, take the bars of the same length and thickness.

Drywall profiles are designed for indoor use. Due to the small thickness of the zinc coating, manufacturers do not recommend using them for fastening siding. Most often they are used if they want to save money. For better strength, use additional fasteners, they are called hangers. The main advantages of such a crate: low price and ease of installation.

Lathing from profiles for drywall (photo No. 14)

The metal U-shaped profile is made of galvanized metal 1 mm thick. These profiles are designed for fastening siding, along the edge of the profile there is a “flanging” - a contour that gives additional rigidity to the profile.

If you want to clad the gable with your own hands and install the siding horizontally, the crate must be mounted vertically. The same rule works in reverse. Most often, a horizontal finish of the pediment is chosen.

To attach the siding to the frame, use a screwdriver and galvanized self-tapping screws (photo No. 15)

Take a step between wooden slats or metal profiles no more than 60 cm. The strongest step will be 30-50 cm. Use galvanized self-tapping screws, they do not rust. For concrete and brick gables, pre-mark and drill holes for attaching the frame. You will need a drill and dowels.

Expert advice. If you decide to mount wood siding, use not a metal, but a wooden crate. Under the influence of moisture, the wood expands, and the metal remains the same, which can lead to cracks in the skin.

If you decide to finish the gable yourself, you can save on installation work(photo #16)

Fixing panels

When the crate is ready, proceed with the installation of the siding. You will need a building level, a screwdriver, a hacksaw, a construction tape measure and self-tapping screws. To fix the skin, auxiliary structures are used along the perimeter of the pediment: mounting strips and profiles.

Start by installing the starting bar. The starting bar must be set strictly according to the level: the further installation of the siding depends on how you mount it.
Vinyl siding expands in the hot summer and narrows in the winter. Due to this feature of the material, the screws do not need to be fully tightened; leave a small gap for the bar to walk under the influence of temperature. For the same reason, the distance between the slats should be 5-7 mm.
Install corner strips. They are mounted along the roof slope: measure the sides of the gable, cut right size(metal saw or knife) and attach to the screws.
Installation of corner strips (photo No. 18)
Various siding elements are used to decorate the window. If the window is flush with the wall, use a J-profile. If it is recessed inside and there is a slope, mount a window trim, install a finishing one near the slope.
When sheathing the gable with siding, you can use panels different color and invoices. To connect them, an H-profile is used.
After installing the auxiliary structures, we proceed to the installation of siding panels. They need to be cut to the length of the gable. Install the first panel in the initial and corner strips. Do not mount the panel close to the corner strips, leave room for possible expansion.
Attach the panels to the frame. It is best to use galvanized screws for this, they do not rust.
Fix the last panel with a finishing strip.

Auxiliary structures for installing siding on the gable (photo No. 20)

Conclusion

We told you how to sheathe the gable with siding with your own hands. First of all, choose the finish: the type of siding, its color and texture. Calculate the required amount of material.

Remove the old finish from the gable, treat the surface with a protective impregnation. Make a crate, lay a vapor barrier. If you use the attic as a living room, the pediment needs to be insulated. When installing vinyl siding, be aware of possible changes due to temperature.

If you decide to finish the gable yourself, you can save on installation work. If you want to hire builders, you can control the work process and point out mistakes.