A few tips on how to insulate the floor in the country. How to insulate the floor in the country house without disassembling it How thin insulation to cover the floor in the country house

Competently carried out work on floor insulation is the key to maintaining a comfortable temperature in the house and minimal heat loss. Such work can be carried out both during the construction of a new building and in operated houses, for example, floor insulation in wooden house down from the basement. Not only high-quality floor insulation, but also right choice heat insulating material.

The presence of a basement in the house allows you to insulate the floor from below Source oig-homes.com

Benefits of bottom insulation

From the point of view of labor costs, it is more profitable to insulate the floor from above. In this case, the insulating layer is mounted between the frame (logs) and the top finishing layer.

But in some situations, lower insulation is preferable.

This method of thermal insulation is most often used in private houses with an uninsulated basement, garage, in frame buildings on pile and pile-screw foundations.

Bottom insulation has several advantages:

the insulation layer is not subjected to loads from furniture standing on the floor and the movement of people around the house, therefore, heat-insulating material of any rigidity can be used;

the height of the room does not decrease;

not only the top flooring is protected from freezing, but also the entire floor frame, which reduces the likelihood of freezing and water ingress on the wood - this increases the service life wooden structures and ensure their reliability.

It is more expedient to insulate a house on stilts from below Source valet.ru

Thermal insulation materials

The choice of insulation for a wooden house is based on two criteria: incombustibility and the ability to resist the formation of mold fungi and other microorganisms. But when choosing a material for lower insulation, the specific situation and the intended installation method are taken into account.

Before purchasing materials, it is better to consult a contractor than to insulate the floor in a private house from below. Most often used:

mineral wool;

Styrofoam;

penoplex;

expanded clay.

mineral wool considered one of the best heaters which is why many people prefer it. A plus is good soundproofing performance. Cotton wool is not subject to biological destruction, does not burn.

Cons: low mechanical strength and deterioration of thermal insulation properties when exposed to water or steam. Therefore, when using, special attention should be paid to vapor and waterproofing. Cotton wool can be represented by flexible rolls or dense slabs.

Mineral wool in slabs is often used for insulation from the basement side. Source: silastroy.com

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer home insulation services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Styrofoam- Another popular heater. Combines good qualities mineral wool and mechanical strength. But in case of possible ignition, it releases toxic substances. Due to its structure, it retains heat well and ensures minimal heat loss. Long service life eliminates the need for replacement, but the ability to absorb moisture can adversely affect some performance.

Penoplex. A recently appeared material is based on polystyrene, into which gas is introduced. The mass is foamed and squeezed into molding containers. The gas evaporates and the output is a sheet of insulation with many pores. This is a material with unique thermal insulation characteristics, very light, easy to install. Durability and immunity to biological organisms provide a long service life. The material is non-flammable, does not emit harmful substances and does not absorb water.

Penofol- material for the production of which polyethylene foam is used. An aluminum film is applied to its top layer, which reflects heat, which gives the room the characteristics of a thermos. The structure of penofol does not contain pores, which does not allow it to pass air.

Penofol perfectly reflects heat Source ultra-term.ru

Expanded clay- loose material, in the form of porous balls, which is formed during the firing of clay or shale. This is a completely environmentally friendly material that has high heat saving rates, good fire resistance and frost resistance. But over time, expanded clay becomes caked under the action of gravity and begins to lose quality, so this material must be changed periodically.

To decide how to insulate the floor in a wooden house from below, it is necessary to choose the insulation that will perform the function of a heat insulator better than others in a particular situation.

Principles of installation work

Regardless of the choice of type of thermal insulation, it is necessary to follow the sequence of work performed for proper insulation. Considering the structure from the bottom up, it will look like this:

waterproofing layer;

thermal insulation layer;

vapor barrier layer;

construction for floor installation;

Compliance with this work order ensures that normal temperature conditions indoors and protect the structure from freezing and decay.

The easiest way to lower insulation is along the lags. They are bars measuring 5x10 cm or more, on which the floor is subsequently laid.

The scheme of floor insulation along the lags Source neohomesdeaf.org

After their installation (the recommended distance between adjacent lags is 1 m), plywood sheets, chipboards or beams are hemmed from below, on which a waterproofing layer is laid. This is a measure to combat condensation, which can reduce the performance of the thermal insulation layer. Approximately this technology is used in the insulation of the house "Stanislav Chalet".

Next, the heater is installed. Its thickness should not exceed the thickness of the lag, but it is better to be several centimeters less. The next stage is the laying of a vapor barrier, which will prevent moisture from entering the insulation from inside the room. And at the end floorboards are laid.

If it is necessary to insulate the finished floor in a wooden house from below, there may be problems fixing the insulation, which can be solved in one of the following ways:

Adhesive mount. Almost any insulation can be glued to the floor surface (and the ceiling in the basement) using special adhesives.

Rail mounting. To support the insulation, bars, slats, etc. are nailed to the logs.

Docking in size. Tight joining of heat-insulating material with lags using, if necessary, spacer wedges.

When laying the insulation end-to-end with the lags, it is necessary to strictly maintain the size Source neohomesdeaf.org

In any case, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier, and after insulation, hem the basement ceiling with boards. This will prevent the insulation and its particles from falling down.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that have a full production cycle. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Technology and features of floor insulation from below in a wooden house

For each type of insulation, there are some features of use.

Mineral wool

The sizes of rolls and plates are usually a multiple of 60 cm, which makes this distance the optimal step between the lags. Mineral wool is cut to size with a cutter and placed in the space between the joists. For a snug fit, the size should be 1-2 cm larger than the distance between the lags. Vatu should not be crushed forcefully, as this may affect its characteristics.

The best option would be to lay two layers of insulation. The second layer is laid in such a way that the joint of the lower layer falls on the center of the upper piece. This installation method will prevent cold air from entering the room.

Video description

You can get acquainted with the stages of floor insulation with mineral wool along the logs in the video:

When working with this insulation, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment - gloves, a respirator and goggles, since small particles can get on the mucous membrane and in the respiratory tract, which will cause irritation.

Penoplex and polystyrene

If foam plastic is used when insulating a wooden floor from below in a private house, several rules for working with it must be taken into account:

Styrofoam absorbs water, so waterproofing is required. Many experts do not take this property into account during installation, which leads to a decrease in thermal insulation characteristics.

It is recommended to cut the sheets not exactly according to the size of the gap between the lags, but 1-2 cm less. This will fill the gaps between the sheet and the lag. mounting foam which will increase the thermal insulation properties. The joints between the sheets also need to be foamed.

Sheets can be fastened using rails, spacer wedges or special adhesives.

Floor insulation with foam plastic in a wooden house Source sk-amigo.ru

The principle of working with penoplex is no different. But due to the smaller thickness of the material, it can be laid with overlapping of the joints of the sheets in order to avoid the occurrence of cold islands (similar to mineral wool).

But with this method, the consumption of material increases significantly, and these are additional financial costs.

We offer you to get acquainted with the popular - from construction company"Shelf" - presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-rise Country".

Penofol

Due to the property of not allowing moisture to pass through, penofol does not need additional laying of vapor and waterproofing. But so that the water vapor that forms in the room does not settle on the insulation layer, an air gap is needed between it and the floor covering for air circulation.

Laying is done with the foil side up only. This will provide heat reflection, which will increase the temperature in the house. Penofol can be used as a waterproofing when laying mineral wool or polystyrene. This can increase thermal insulation several times, but this method is quite expensive.

Penofol joints are sealed with adhesive tape Source build.4-u.info

The material is sold in rolls and is easily cut into pieces. right size. Fastening is carried out with a construction stapler on staples or thin slats, which are nailed. To improve the result, it is recommended to lay penofol in several layers.

Conclusion

One of the main problems of wooden houses is the cold floor, which interferes with a comfortable life and increases heating costs. Proper insulation will solve this problem. Regardless of the material that is chosen for warming the finished floor in a wooden house from below, it is required to strictly follow the general technology and the procedure for warming, and also take into account the features of a particular heater. The cost of arranging insulation pays off within one season.

From the author: hello, today I would really like to tell you how to make your own Vacation home habitable in winter period. Of course, many factors influence this, but one of the main ones is a high-quality floor, since the main heat losses occur through it. That is why it is important to know how to insulate the floor in the country house in order to exclude cooling of the premises. I understand that many are financially limited, so the budget option of work and affordable building materials will be the basis.

First steps: where to start warming

In order to save money, you can do all the work yourself. There is nothing difficult in this process if you follow the instructions. If difficulties arise or doubts arise, then consultation with a specialist - the best solution. In my case, it was a friend who did similar work last year.

It is important to understand that after doing all the work, except for keeping warm, we will also get good savings in the family budget, since gas and electricity bills will be less, and if the house is heated with wood, their number will also decrease.

Stages of warming:

choice of insulation (we focus on the optimal ratio of quality and price);
quantity counts necessary materials(depending on the area of the room);
installation work;
checking the tightness and quality of the work done.

Responsible moment: the choice of insulation for the floor

High-quality and quick home insulation with your own hands is impossible without the use of specialized materials. A variety of offers will allow you to choose best option even with the most modest budget. If money allows, then you can choose materials that are easy to install, such as vermiculite or foam, and ecowool and polyurethane foam also show good performance.

The installation process is quite simple - the particles are blown out with special equipment, which will need to be purchased by doing the work yourself.

Budget materials will allow you to make insulation in a country house with your own hands without special costs, but with high quality and guaranteed durability, since the low price is due to the difficulties in installation. The most popular are:

Styrofoam;
sawdust pellets and dry sawdust;
mineral wool (without foil);
roll heaters;
expanded clay;
slag.

It is important to understand that it is more difficult to work in a finished house, since you will have to open the finishing boards, so it is better to do it during the construction process. Budget materials, in addition to low cost and good heat retention, have a number of significant disadvantages:

high fire hazard (polystyrene);
exposure to moisture (sawdust, mineral wool and granules);
low mechanical strength (foam, slag).

Thus, the procedure for floor insulation should begin with the choice optimal material. A friend advised me - it's cheaper. Penofol is too expensive, and I was looking for a budget way. And foam plastic is the same as foam plastic, only the layer is two to three times thinner, and it costs twice as much.

Instructions for laying insulation

In order not to experience discomfort in the winter, it is necessary to study the scheme before starting work. There are many ways and possibilities of installation. You should choose the best one based on the climatic features of the region and the area where the house is located. In the event that work is to be done in mid-latitudes with a temperate climate, then here's what you need to know about warming a wooden floor with penofol or any other material:

The thickness of the insulation must be at least 12 cm.
The minimum layer of material should be 20 cm.

In addition, you should adhere to the basic principles of work:

the insulation must completely fill the existing space between the supporting elements (to form an airtight pocket);
before performing work, the finishing floor will need to be dismantled (each floorboard can be pre-marked to be laid in the same order);
open not only the floor, but also the installed (if any) skirting boards;
check the quality of wooden structures in the lower part (lag);
if necessary, replace the log (if they are rotten or darkened).

Having insulated the floors with foam, polystyrene or other suitable type of insulation, you can live comfortably all year round. After the finishing floor and plinth are opened, the logs are inspected and replaced, as in my case, bars can be attached to their lower edge. The distance should not exceed 1 meter.

Then, a rough floor from ordinary boards is installed on the bar system. The joint-to-joint principle should not be observed here, since the tree shrinks or expands if there is strong water vapor, which leads to deformation of the boards. If you need to carry out insulation in a panel house, you will need more insulation.

The next step after measuring the distance between the joists is to cut out the lumber sheets and create an indent for the subfloor. Then a layer of vapor barrier is laid on it, as it will serve as the basis for future insulation and protect the material from damage under the action of condensate and water.

After that, it is necessary to make a flooring from the selected insulation. In the case of plates, you will need to overlap them. If various bulk materials (expanded clay or slag) are selected, then it is desirable to cover the entire perimeter of the room with them.

To do this, you just need to leave a small gap of 2–3 cm between the upper edge of the log and the insulation being laid.

The next step is to lay a layer of vapor barrier for additional protection from moisture. After that, you can return the finishing floors and skirting boards to their place - the insulation work has been completed. You will need to trim the edges of the material, if necessary, so that it does not crawl up.

Good luck in your work and comfortable living outside the city in winter. In the meantime, subscribe to the updates of our website in social networks and find out everything about the construction and renovation of the apartment and country house. Until we meet again, friends!

Main problem country houses is moisture and rodents. Therefore, when warming the country floor, it is necessary to take into account these features. Usually, when working with heaters, one of two options is chosen, or directly on subfloor, or on top of already laid boards. Both methods are good in their own way and easy to work with. In general, if you do not know how to make floor insulation in the country with your own hands, then this article will provide you with a lot of answers.

How to insulate a draft floor

The subfloor is used more often than the second option, it is universal in terms of use on any basis, there will be no load on the heaters, so even loose and fragile materials will do.

We will need tools such as:

Roulette.
Screwdriver.
Hammer.
Building level.
Hacksaw or electric jigsaw.

From the materials we take:

insulation,
glassine,
wood primer,
construction tape.

Preparing the foundation

Our article will allow you to find out the answer to the question of how to insulate the floor in the country without disassembling it. But we'll talk about this later. In this case, we perform the following actions.

First, we evaluate the condition of the floor, remove the boards and inspect them for wear, if the boards are in order, then we clean them of dust and dirt. Don't forget to number the boards to make it easier to lay them back. It is also better to prime the boards, having previously cleaned and sanded them. Then dry them properly in the sun.
Now we evaluate the state of the base. If it is a cement screed, then just sweep it. For a log, a beam of 100x150 mm is suitable, or strong boards with a section of 100x50 mm. Keep an eye on the evenness of the wood, it should not have any defects. We first prime these logs properly, and lay roofing material on the base.
We lay the timber at a distance of 60-80 cm, in exceptional cases 100 cm. We control the level of the installation with a level. The floors in the country do without heavy loads, so the logs can not be fixed with dowels.

Proper waterproofing.

Glassine is perfect in this capacity because of its cheapness and durability. Place it on top of the lag and distribute it well. They are usually fixed with a construction stapler with inside. Be sure to leave an overlap of 10-15 cm and fasten the seams with adhesive tape or mastic. We also overlap it on the walls by about 15 cm.

You can, of course, get by with simple polyethylene, but for rodents it will not be an obstacle, keep this in mind. And it is attached in the same way as glassine.

warming process.

What is the best way to insulate the floor in the country? This question also requires logical reasoning. Even with inexpensive heaters in the country, with proper use, you can get an effect no worse than their expensive counterparts.

Depending on the shape, we prepare the insulation, cut the plates 2 cm more than the distance between the lags, and cut the roll insulation immediately upon installation. Sawdust is first treated with a flame retardant, then mixed with lime in a ratio of 10% lime from the volume of sawdust. Such a mixture will scare away mice, and the fire retardant will give the sawdust an anti-combustible effect. Now dry the sawdust.

So, we place the selected insulation and level it between the lag. We try not to leave any cracks and gaps, because because of them the entire thermal effect can be greatly underestimated. So the gaps between the plates must be filled with foam. Just to avoid gaps and gaps, the insulation is laid in 2 layers, when the top layer overlaps the joints of the bottom layer with solid slabs. But at the same time, even the second layer should be a couple of cm lower than the lag, this is the space for the necessary underfloor ventilation.

Now we stretch the vapor barrier film from above. You can use the same glassine here, or a special membrane. We also lay it with an overlap, with fixing the joints with mastic or tape. You can’t just attach it to the walls, and it should lie quite freely, in order to avoid shifts, you can fix it with a stapler.

If, when laying the insulation, you failed to observe the ventilation gap, then after laying the vapor barrier, the slats should be nailed crosswise to the joists, a subfloor will already be laid on them.

Take note of the following information about heaters:

Min. cotton wool ceases to be a heater with excess moisture, so vapor barrier is its only protection. Otherwise, after a short period of time, you will have to change the layer of mineral wool again.

Various types of mineral wool by density.

Types Density Heat transfer Prev. Temp. combustible
Mats 50-85 0.046 700С NG
Light 20-40 0.036 400С NG
plates
Soft 50-75 0.036 400 NG
plates
Semi-rigid 75-125 0.0326 400 NG
plates
Rigid 175-225 0.043 100 G1
plates
Cylinders 200 0.046 400 NG
Loose cotton wool 30 0.05 600 NG

Styrofoam easily gnawed by mice. If the dacha is not particularly habitable, then a huge number of mice can breed under the floor, which will gnaw through both the film and the foam, but through glassine they cannot get to the foam.

Sawdust mixed with dry lime to prevent them from settling and compressing when heat can not be expected from them. If you add only 10% of lime to them of the total volume, and add dry gypsum (5%) and an antiseptic solution (approx. 8%) to this, then the insulation will turn out to be what you need. The solution will add moisture to the sawdust with gypsum, and the gypsum can easily set ahead of time, so the mass must be quickly positioned in the right place in a short time. Then we get where we need a solid and durable mass with excellent heat-retaining characteristics. It will not rot and mold is not afraid of it. Gypsum can be replaced with cement.

We lay the floors

This is the final stage of the warming process. Remember we numbered the boards? So, it's time to evaluate this convenience, which will save you a lot of time. Now we lay them, tightly fitting to each other and fix them with self-tapping screws. If gaps suddenly arise, we drive wedges into them or putty. Don't forget about horizontal measurements. At the end of the work, we put the baseboards back and cut off the excess film if they stick out.

In a new house, you can use chipboard or OSB instead of planks. We measure them in size and fasten them with screws to the logs. Plates should be slightly shifted along the length to avoid gaps. Then the seams should be puttied, cleaned, sanded and can be primed. Linoleum, laminate, or something else can already be applied to this base.

We warm wooden floors

If you are interested in the question, how to insulate the old floor in the country? Then we are ready to offer you an answer to it. If the floors of your house do not cause any concern, then you can carry out insulation work directly on top of them. Just be prepared that the height of the ceilings in the country will be reduced by 8-10 cm.

We will need:

Electric jigsaw.
Sanding attachment.
Primer.
Building level.
Beam 50x50 cm.
Wood putty.
Vapor barrier film.
Chipboard or other sheet material.
Self-tapping screws.
Insulation.
Screwdriver.
Construction tape.

We will have bars instead of logs, they need to be prescribed with an antiseptic liquid and dried properly.
After removing the plinth, we clean the floors from dust. Next, we check their level for horizontal.
We grind the protrusions with a nozzle, and fill the gaps with putty.
Next, apply two coats of primer to the floor and let dry.
We lay out the beam on the floor at a distance of 30 cm, retreat 3 cm from the edges of the walls. We use the level when laying out and put wedges under the bars if alignment is necessary, then we fix it to the floor with self-tapping screws.
Now we fill the space with mineral wool and polystyrene insulation - the best options. We blow out the seams with a film.
From above, we cover everything with a vapor barrier membrane, straightening and fastening the seams with adhesive tape.
We make the flooring sheets square to facilitate the task and from the second row we shift them by 20-25 cm when laying. To make the seams less noticeable, you need to fit the sheets to each other as tightly as possible.
If it is planned to lay something else on this coating, then the sheets can not be further processed. But if you plan to leave everything as it is, then get ready to sand first, then prime and wait for drying.

With the right approach to the technology of work, such home-made floors will last at least 10 years.

Compare floor heaters

Sawdust.

Cheap, lightweight, environmentally friendly material. But it burns and rots. Thermal conductivity comp. 0.090-0.180 W\mK.

Expanded clay.

Eco-friendly and durable, does not rot or combust. But fragile and heavy. Thermal conductivity comp. 0.148 W\mK.

Styrofoam.

Waterproof and lightweight, does not rot and is easy to work with. Thermal conductivity comp. 0.035-0.47 W\mK.

Min. cotton wool

Eco-friendly and non-flammable, easy to use and with low thermal conductivity. But when wet, it shrinks and loses its insulation properties. Thermal conductivity comp. 0.039 W\mK.

Summing up

Regardless of whether you live in the country all year round or visit only in the warm season, high-quality thermal insulation will not be superfluous. Warming gives not only comfort from staying in the house, but also protects the building from dampness, external influences, and destruction.

You need to start from the base - if the floors in the house are cold, heating will take a lot of time and energy. So, let's consider how to insulate the floor in the country house on our own and with the greatest efficiency.

The choice of insulation is determined by several criteria:

material resources of the dacha owners;
complexity of installation;
durability;
resistance to moisture and rodents.

The last point is especially important, because if the owners live in the dacha only periodically, dampness and mice are the main cause of floor destruction.

The range of heaters is wide, and along with modern ones, many summer residents willingly use already familiar, time-tested materials. At limited budget there are several viable options available.

Expanded clay- light porous granules perfectly retain heat, mice and insects do not get into them, the material does not emit harmful fumes. For effective thermal insulation it is necessary to provide reliable protection against dampness and pour expanded clay in a thick layer - up to 30 cm.

Wood shavings and sawdust- cheap and environmentally friendly material that can be purchased at any woodworking enterprise. The shavings perfectly retain heat, but are afraid of moisture, so they also need high-quality protection. In addition, insects and rodents can start in it.

Slag- available and practical way ground insulation. He also needs waterproofing, but it is durable, non-flammable and mice do not start in it.

- affordable, perfectly retains heat and muffles sounds, is not damaged by insects or rodents. The disadvantages include the tendency to shrink and the need to use protective agents during installation, since thin fibers are very brittle, easily penetrate the respiratory tract, and irritate the skin.

Styrofoam- easy to install, moisture resistant. It has a long service life, but provided there are no mice, since these rodents destroy it very actively.

Application modern materials gives an incomparably better result: laying is carried out with minimal labor costs, the efficiency of insulation increases significantly, you can forget about re-repair for at least 20 years. The only negative is the high price, but financial investments fully pay off in a few years, thanks to significant savings on home heating.

Material	Basic properties
	XPS boards are not afraid of moisture, temperature fluctuations, freezing, and due to their high density and special structure, they perfectly retain their shape throughout the entire service life. The insulation is lightweight, in addition, the plates have a convenient connection system, so anyone can handle the installation.
	Produced in various modifications, they have increased wear resistance, less hygroscopicity, and last longer. There are mats and plates with a foil coating that reflects heat and increases the effectiveness of thermal insulation at times.
	The sprayed insulation forms a dense and seamless layer of insulation that is resistant to any negative influences. Due to the porous structure, the insulation does not exert heavy loads on the foundation and floors, and is excellent for thermal insulation of floors on the second floor, attic and attic. True, spraying requires a special installation, as well as skills to work with it, so it is problematic to insulate the floor in this way on your own.
	Cellulose insulation with very low thermal conductivity. Environmentally friendly, has high soundproofing properties. The insulation is blown into the underground space using the installation, since it is quite difficult to manually evenly distribute and compact the layer.

Rockwool mineral wool prices

rockwool mineral wool

As bulk insulation many use expanded vermiculite - a granular material with a scaly structure. It is lighter than expanded clay and retains heat better, serves as excellent sound insulation. Unlike XPS and mineral wool, vermiculite is completely environmentally friendly, but it is not affected by fungi, putrefactive bacteria, insects and mice do not live in it. Well, the disadvantages include only the high cost, which is why vermiculite is inferior in popularity to cotton wool insulation and polystyrene.

Thermal insulation methods

Insulate the floors country house can be done in two ways - by lags and by a draft base. The first option is used for both concrete and wooden surfaces, and any of the above materials can act as a heater. The entire load goes directly to the logs, so the density of the material, its resistance to mechanical stress, do not play a role. When choosing this method, it must be taken into account that the floor will rise by 10-15 cm, depending on the total thickness of the beams, flooring and finish.

Laying insulation on a rough base requires a certain rigidity from the material in order to prevent shrinkage under the influence of mechanical loads. The rough base can be compacted soil, concrete or semi-dry screed, as well as wooden flooring. The thermal insulation layer can be laid directly under the coating or filled with a reinforced screed, which is a more reliable and durable option.

Warming along the lags

It is possible to perform insulation along the lags both at the construction stage and during the operation of the cottage. For example, consider thermal insulation with mineral wool in slabs. According to building codes, to insulate floors above a cold basement, a layer of material 50-100 mm thick is required, above warm rooms this figure can be reduced to 30 mm. In the northern regions, the layer thickness should be about 150-200 mm. Depending on this, it is necessary to immediately determine whether the plates will be laid in one or two layers in order to accurately calculate the amount of material.

In addition to mineral plates, you will need a film for hydro and vapor barrier, as well as a standard set of tools:

level;
drill;
roulette;
construction stapler;
mounting knife;
jigsaw.

For logs, a dry and strong timber with a section of 100x150 mm or boards of 100x50 mm is used.

Step 1. Prepare the base: sweep out dust and debris, inspect the concrete base for damage and irregularities.

Step 2 The surface is lined with strips of dense polyethylene film, overlapping the edges by 15 cm. It is advisable to glue the joints with adhesive tape to eliminate the slightest risk of moisture penetration. When insulating the floor of the first floor, roofing material can be used instead of a film.

Step 3 The beam is cut to size and treated on all sides with soil with antiseptic properties. In order to save money, you can use drying oil or used engine oil. Lay the tree out to dry.

Step 4 The dried logs are laid on top of the waterproofing layer in increments of 58-59 cm. This distance will allow the insulation boards to be tightly laid without cutting on the sides. Each lag is leveled, wooden linings are used for adjustment. If large loads on the floor are not expected, the logs can not be screwed to the base. Otherwise, fix them with anchors.

Step 5 Mineral wool slabs are carefully laid between the bars, carefully spreading in the corners. The insulation is tightly joined to each other, and the second layer is laid so as to completely overlap the joints of the lower layer by at least 10 cm.

Insulation cutting is performed sharp knife by markup

Step 6 Having laid the thermal insulation, a vapor barrier membrane is rolled out over the mineral wool. It also overlaps by 10-15 cm, the joints are fixed with adhesive tape.

Step 7 Now proceed to the installation of the flooring. The plates are laid with the long side across the log and screwed with self-tapping screws. Rows of plates should be located with offset joints, while joining the short sides is carried out exclusively along the logs.

After that, it remains to lay the finish coat and enjoy the comfort in the house. If you need to insulate old floors, first carefully dismantle the baseboards and flooring, make an audit of the base, boards and logs, and discard badly damaged elements. Everything that can be reused must be dried in the sun and treated with protective compounds. Further actions are carried out as described above, and in the end, boards are stuffed over the vapor barrier.

Advice. In order not to have to adjust the floor boards again, it is recommended to number each of them with chalk on the reverse side when dismantling.

In a similar way, insulation is carried out with bulk materials - expanded clay, vermiculite, shavings. When filling the insulation, the logs should protrude by 20-30 mm so that there is a gap between the flooring and the heat-insulating layer for ventilation.

Insulation on a concrete screed

Concrete floors are most often insulated by laying foam under the screed. This method is quite simple, although time-consuming, the result is reliable and durable. In order for the insulation to lay down in an even layer, the concrete base should not have height differences of more than 5 mm. Also, it should not have cracks through which moisture can penetrate.

For work you will need:

foam insulation;
film for waterproofing;
damper tape;
reinforcing metal mesh with a cell of 100x100 mm;
profiles for lighthouses;
building plaster;
cement and sand;
instruments.

Step 1. The surface is primed in 1 or 2 layers, depending on the porosity of the base.

Step 2 After the primer has dried, at the junction of the walls and the floor, a damper tape is glued around the entire perimeter of the room.

Step 3 Line the base with strips of overlapping film and secure its edges with adhesive tape. The width of the overlap should not be less than 10 cm. The edges of the film around the perimeter lead to the wall, also to a height of 10-12 cm.

Step 4 Mount the thermal insulation layer. Only glue can be used to fix the plates, but many craftsmen additionally fix the thermal insulation plates with mushroom dowels, one in the center of each plate. At the joints, the insulation is tightly connected using a groove-comb system. In cold regions, the laying of foam plastic should be carried out in 2 layers, with the obligatory displacement of the upper plates relative to the lower ones. If suddenly there are gaps between the insulation, they must be blown out with foam so that the solution does not get there when pouring.

Step 5 Mixing plaster or cement-sand mortar and set on top of beacons. The distance between the beacons is about a meter, each profile is strictly aligned horizontally. If the beacons are not located in the same plane, the screed will turn out to be uneven, which will further complicate the installation of the floor covering.

Step 6 Prepare a mortar for screed in the proportion of 1 part of cement to 3 parts of sand. The floor is poured in parts, starting from the far corner of the room. Pour the solution between the beacons, then stretch it with the rule. If voids form during the leveling process, the missing solution is thrown with a trowel and leveled again.

Step 7 After a couple of days, the profiles can be carefully removed so as not to damage the surface of the screed, and the resulting grooves are filled with fresh mortar. If desired, the beacons can be left in the screed, this will not affect its strength.

After 28 days, you can lay the finish coat. All the time while the screed dries, it should be protected from drafts and sunlight. From time to time the surface must be moistened, especially in hot weather, as rapid drying promotes cracking.

Video - How to insulate a wooden floor in the country

Despite the excellent insulating qualities of wood, the floor constructed from lumber needs to be insulated. Without thermal insulation, the structure cannot cope with the role of a barrier that completely prevents heat loss. As a result of the shifts characteristic of natural organics, gaps appear between the elements.

Due to the difference in external and internal temperatures, condensate forms on the surface of the beams and the log, with invariable consequences - fungi and mold. To eliminate the entire list of these troubles, floor insulation in a wooden house will help, for the implementation of which special technological schemes are used.

Optimal insulation for wooden floors

Discuss on a topic the best material for thermal insulation of a wooden floor is meaningless. Almost everything is applicable, from old-fashioned dry foliage to expensive vermiculite. They insulate the floors in wooden houses with loose thermal insulation options, mats and slabs.

Since the list of requirements for any insulation consistently includes lightness, minimum water permeability, durability, operational safety, all these qualities are quite satisfactory for builders and owners of wooden houses.

The choice mainly rests on the financial capabilities of the owner, on the type of foundation and on the method of laying. Owners who are not limited in funds will be able to purchase progressive, easy-to-fit materials with detailed instructions about how to insulate the floor in a private house without the involvement of builders and with an accurate indication of the thermal performance of the factory product on the package. If you want to save money, you will have to tinker a lot with traditional insulation schemes.

Heaters for economical owners

Independent home craftsmen who do not want or are not able to invest significant amounts in insulation can use as a heat insulator:

dry sawdust, pleasing with a minimal price, but requiring a reliable waterproofing device on both sides of the insulating layer due to the tendency of the material to actively absorb moisture;
sawdust granules, which are more practical option treated with antiseptic and fire retardant;
slag, attractive in cost, but used mainly in floor insulation schemes on the ground;
expanded clay, used to create a heat-insulating layer of considerable power, since its optimal thickness for our latitudes is 30 cm;
simple mineral wool without foil and corrugated casings that increase thermal performance;
roll insulation, created on the basis of fiberglass, slag;
polystyrene foam, which needs to be carried out to protect it from the encroachment of rodents and from fires.

Subject to the rules for thermal insulation using the listed materials, heat leakage through the lower ceiling will be excluded. However, laying them will require impressive labor efforts.

Modernized expensive heaters

If the owner of a country property does not have the main task of how to insulate the floor in a wooden house with little expense, then at his disposal:

Vermiculite is a product of the processing of hydrated micas with excellent insulating properties and operational durability;
Penoplex - extruded polystyrene foam produced in plate format with increased strength and excellent waterproofing properties;
Various modifications of heaters with the brands Ursa, Thermolife, Isovent, Penofol, Isolight, etc., which are mats and plates with bases made of foamed polystyrene, glass wool and basalt analog, optimized by increasing wear resistance, minimizing water permeability, applying foil shells for reverse reflection of heat rays and other methods.

It is possible to isolate a wooden floor in case of minor heat leaks with ecowool or polyurethane foam, but it is impossible to blow these materials without special equipment.

This is a significant minus, and the plus is the creation of a dense water-repellent layer of insulation that does not require a device to protect the insulation from steam.

Wood floor insulation schemes

In SNiP, number 23-02-2003, there are tables with normative values of heat transfer resistance and rules for heat engineering calculations, focusing on which the thickness of the insulation should be selected.

Without going into details of the laws of heat engineering, builders recommend building an insulated floor over a cold basement in middle lane with a capacity of 12 cm, in the northern regions with a thickness of 20 cm, and interfloor ceilings in case of heat leaks to supplement 8 cm of thermal insulation.

The priority of warming a wooden floor in a private house is directly its construction from beams and a log system, which allows filling the space between the supporting elements with expanded clay, mineral wool or foam plastic.

The general principle is to build a kind of "boxes" between the lags, into which insulation is poured or laid. The work is simple and, if you want to show diligence, it is quite feasible with your own hands. The main thing is to choose the right technological algorithm, according to which you can insulate the house quickly, competently, efficiently.

Thermal insulation of the floor above the low underground

This is the most time-consuming method dictated by the need to dismantle the flooring, since the limited size of the subfloor does not allow attaching thermal insulation to the joists from below. Work is carried out in the following sequence:

We dismantle the plinth and floorboards, not forgetting to sign the floor elements for the purpose of prompt re-laying.
We carry out an audit of the wooden components. We cut out all the doubtful sections of the lag and install a beam with equivalent dimensions instead. We build up with the help of boards attached to the right and left of the log, screwed with galvanized self-tapping screws.
We sew a bar to the bottom edge of each lag again on both sides. It will serve as a support for the cranial flooring.
According to the distance between the lags, we prepare inexpensive lumber for the construction of a subfloor. An unedged board must be sawn into segments 1-2 cm shorter than the lag installation step, so that the details of the cranial flooring fit freely.
We are constructing a draft floor by means of the banal laying of harvested board scraps. Builders do not advise to dock them tightly, since the characteristic movements of the wood will turn the “tightly” laid cranial floor into a ridge of steps and mounds. Attaching board trimmings to the support bar is also optional, and not recommended.

Note. Further actions depend on the degree of saturation of the rocks underlying the foundation with water. According to the technological manuals, the rough flooring arranged between the lags together with them - with lags, must be covered with a layer of vapor barrier. This barrier will protect the insulation from steam rushing up from earth's surface according to the laws of physics, but it will not interfere with the removal of condensate from the thickness of the material. However, if the house is built on a plot with a high mirror ground water, instead of a vapor barrier membrane, it is better to use waterproofing - roofing material or glassine.

We lay the insulating layer with a continuous sheet with "visits" on the walls of 10-15 cm. As a result, something like a pallet should come out. Rolled materials must be laid with an overlap and the strips must be connected with adhesive tape. For reliability and convenience in further work, you can periodically fix the insulating carpet with a stapler to the logs and to the walls.
The voids formed between the lags are filled with the selected insulation so that between the upper edge of the lag and the surface of the loose, rolled or board material about 2 cm left for ventilation. If the thickness of the insulation does not allow leaving a ventilation gap, that is, the surface of the thermal insulation is flush with the upper plane of the log, it is necessary to build a counter-lattice. Nail the rail with a step of 40 cm along the logs “in a cross” in their direction.
Again, an insulating mat made of glassine or a diffuse membrane to protect against downward moisture. In the case of a counter-lattice, the insulation must be under it.
At the end, we mount the floorboards according to the numbers indicated on them in reverse order, put the plinth, cut the insulation along its edge.

Of course, in order not to think about how and with what to properly insulate the floor in a wooden private house, you should take care of laying thermal insulation during the construction period, but you can eliminate the flaw in the way described above and after.

Elementary insulation of a cold underground at the construction stage can be performed by backfilling a layer of expanded clay, covered over a ground base covered with geotextiles. A more complicated option is to install on the beams pre-knitted floor-sized box-shields filled with thermal insulation.

How to insulate the floor above a high cellar

The principle is similar, but there are much fewer actions, since there is no need to dismantle the floorboards, and the operation algorithm is mirror opposite:

With a stapler, we fasten the waterproofing layer to the strength-tested, repaired beams from the side of the unheated underground.
Support bars or thin slats, by analogy, are nailed to the side faces of the beams from below. In damp basements, instead of a bar, it is advised to use a galvanized profile. Data supporting elements only the weight of the thermal insulation section has to be supported.
We cut the mineral wool so that the width of the piece is 2-3 cm more than the step between the lags. Then, when a heater is installed in the “window” intended for it, it will stand up, temporarily fix itself, and will not interfere with the fastening of the subfloor. Bulk materials, of course, are not used in this scheme, and the plates will need to be mounted with assistants: someone holds the material, someone fastens the rails to support it.
We fix the insulating membrane from below with a stapler.
We sew the subfloor boards to the beams across their direction.

To protect against frisky rodents, you can place between the subfloor and waterproofing metal mesh with small cells.

Double floor device

The method is applicable if the height of the ceilings allows you to reduce this important parameter by 12 or 20 cm. True, the owners, puzzled by the problem of how to insulate the wooden floor in a private house with minimal changes in dimensions, can purchase a ready-made set of raised floors with the Knauf brand, which allows them to reduce the height only 5 cm.

Home craftsmen who do not have a DIY kit from Knauf need:

remove the plinth, repair the floorboards and fill the gaps with mounting foam, sawdust with wood glue or soaked paper with paste;
install logs with a step between them of 0.6-0.7 m, max 0.9 m;
measure the height of the upper planes of the lag with a spirit level, in case of excess, cut off the excess with a planer, eliminate the shortage by lining roofing material or wood chips under the timber;
lay steam or waterproofing in a continuous sheet with access to the walls;
fill the space between the lags with expanded clay, basalt wool, expanded polystyrene or other heat-insulating material, not forgetting about the ventilation gap;
cover the insulated floor with another layer of insulation;
lay a board, plywood, GVLV or any similar material;
fit in the final flooring and the plinth is installed.

Whatever the choice technological scheme, floors of pile foundations, as well as their bored and screw modifications, must be protected from blowing by a wind barrier. It is located with outside insulation systems.

In fact, there are much more ways to insulate wooden floor structures in a private house than we could give. It's just that all advanced technologies and innovative materials are based on general rules and schemes. They are adjusted to the climatic and geological features of specific areas, complement or reduce the number of layers in the constructive floor cake.

Having become acquainted with the principle of insulation, it is easy to independently develop your own version of thermal insulation and implement a home-made project.