Sliding wardrobe design and production by own hands. Instructions on how to make a do-it-yourself wardrobe from chipboard at no extra cost Drawings of a sliding wardrobe with full calculation

Sliding wardrobes have long gained incredible popularity for just a few important reasons: they are very roomy, save space and look great in any interior. You can meet a closet in a small studio apartment, as well as in luxury apartments. The difference between this technology and those that existed before is in a special mechanism for opening doors. They move in different directions, giving the owner access to things. At the same time, the space in front of the cabinet itself and on the sides of it turns out to be completely unused, which allows you to place other pieces of furniture there. It is worth noting that many people confuse wardrobes with built-in wardrobes. At the latter, doors can be opened using any of the possible technologies. And only if they move around on rollers, built-in wardrobes can be called sliding wardrobes.

Do-it-yourself built-in wardrobe in stages

If you are not an experienced craftsman who has been manufacturing and installing wardrobes for many years, we recommend start with a simple rectangular model. The fact is that radius cabinets look unusual and interesting, but they are difficult to create and install. front surface. An ordinary person, even one with rich furniture experience, should not take on such a project.

The easiest type of cabinet placement is in a niche or pantry. In this case, you already have all the walls, tire and bottom. The only thing missing is the doors and the interior. And this means that few materials will be required, and the work will take much less time.

Decide on the material

The material you choose determines the durability of your furniture and appearance closet. The choice of material should be approached very carefully. A traditional tree, for example, is not suitable for installation in a niche. The problem is that a niche always has higher humidity than a room. Because of this, the tree may begin to warp and lose its beautiful texture. But in last resort(when dictated design solution) you can use wood or lining, pre-treated with drying oil or water-polymer emulsion.

But drywall to create a closet is not suitable under no circumstances. This material is not only fragile and heavy, but also not very durable. It's impossible to make it robust design. Moreover, the drywall itself needs support, it needs to be fixed on a solid foundation. It is because of this property that drywall is completely unsuitable for wardrobes. However, from it you can create incredible pieces of furniture that look unusual and stylish.

Perfect option- Fiberboard, MDF and even laminate. From these high-strength and high-quality materials, you can make a wardrobe as a free-standing or built-in wardrobe. They are insensitive to moisture, durable and easy to work with.

Choose the filling of the wardrobe

Now you need to figure out how the clothes will be distributed in the closet. It depends on the filling how shelves and drawers will be formed. For example, outerwear should take place closer to the door, so the moisture from it will not spread to other things. Think about what you will put on the shelves and in the drawers. If you pre-write places for all things, then you will not encounter the problem of a very large shelf on which there is nothing to put, but the absence of the necessary box.

After that, you can start developing the project.

Do-it-yourself built-in wardrobe: drawings and diagrams

Having chosen the appropriate drawing or creating it yourself, check with the original plan. Do you need drawers and shelves? Carefully measure all walls, and also calculate the dimensions of the details of your closet.

Number and dimensions of doors

Choosing the number and size of doors is easy. But you must definitely take into account certain standards:

  • The width of each door should not exceed 600-700 millimeters. Otherwise, there is a risk of distortion. Too heavy canvas will put pressure on the roller system, and the door will become very “tight”.
  • The allowable overlap of doors is 50-70 millimeters. If it is larger, then putting things in the closet and getting them out of it will be more difficult. Otherwise, when closing the door, you will have to try to prevent the formation of a gap.
  • Side profiles take about 50 millimeters, which must also be taken into account when planning doors.

There are three main door suspension systems.

  1. The "top rail" was not widely used, despite the fact that the entire weight of the canvas is transferred to the ceiling here. As a result of a sharp push, the door may fall into the closet, and a guide will still be needed below.
  2. "Monorail" involves a separate guide for each door. In addition, there are two pairs of rollers in each carriage. Although the whole structure is attached to the ceiling, it is almost impossible to do without the bottom rail.
  3. The "lower rail" has gained popularity due to its simplicity, convenience and comparative cheapness. The doors do not fall out of the guides, do not collide with each other. The system itself has some minor shortcomings. But you should be very careful about the choice of rollers, since the entire mass of the canvas presses on them.

Cabinet assembly

If you are making a free-standing wardrobe, then you need to assemble it in the same way as a regular one. But built-in wardrobes, where shelves are attached to the wall itself, require a different attitude. You can use both expensive brackets and the most common floor skirting boards. The latter may be conspicuous, but greatly reduce the value of your closet.

The blanks of the built-in wardrobe are made according to the drawing, and the parts themselves are cut out in place. The thing is that slight curvature of the walls is simply impossible to measure in all places. That is why you have to "undermine" the details. Don't forget to install door stoppers.

If you have any questions, then watch the video: how to make a built-in wardrobe with your own hands.

DIY built-in wardrobe: video

The question of how to make a wardrobe with your own hands sooner or later arises for every person who wants to save on new furniture. Not everyone has the opportunity to purchase a wardrobe in a store, because such a purchase can be very expensive. There is another obstacle - to choose an item for a summer residence, at home, which can be especially problematic due to the lack of the desired model. Therefore, self-production is a great alternative to expensive store furniture and additional savings for the family budget.

What do you need?

Many people think that making furniture is an incredibly difficult and overwhelming task, and before you get started, you should at least read the book "How to make a wardrobe with your own hands." But it's not. In fact, the production of a comfortable, roomy and beautiful piece of furniture can be divided into the following stages: necessary tools and materials, manufacturing of individual parts, assembly, installation.

First of all, you need to decide what the cabinet is for and where it will stand. After all, the furniture will serve for many years, so the issue must be taken seriously. Often cabinets are arranged along the entire length of a blank wall, in an opening interior partition. As for cabinet furniture, it can be divided into zones with its help. one-room apartment, this view will look good in Khrushchev.

Next, you need to calculate the dimensions of the cabinet. It should mean not only the width and height, but also the distance between the shelves, their number. For clarity, you need to transfer your idea to A4 sheet. It will also help determine the material for the product: wood, lining, MDF, fiberboard. The frame is often made from wooden beam and order the doors separately. Do-it-yourself production is a good alternative for a home, a summer residence. Cabinet design can be adapted to small apartments, it will look advantageous in Khrushchev.

It is important to decide on the color of the product. There are many colors: "Beech", "Oak", "Alder", "Walnut". You can also always order the desired chipboard by choosing a color from the catalog.

Cabinet drawing

Depending on where the cabinet will be located - in the house, in the country, Khrushchev, it is necessary to draw up the appropriate drawings, break the product into its component parts of which it consists. If there was a good mark in drawing school, you can do everything yourself on a piece of paper. Also, drawings are created in special computer programs that can be found on the Internet.

Before you start drawing, it is important to consider the external dimensions of the cabinet, the dimensions of the room. You should pay attention to the plinth, baguettes, switch, window sills, heating and take into account the distance from them.

  • Plinth in the room. If the cabinet is designed from wall to wall, then the plinth will not allow furniture to be pushed tightly. In this case, you need to bevel the vertical edges of the cabinet, or dismantle the plinth itself.
  • Chipboard thickness. The thickness of the material is calculated taking into account what will be stored in the cabinet, its dimensions. If there are no long shelves for books - from 16 mm. When drawing, you can count on this thickness. For cabinet furniture, you must choose quality material, more expensive.

When creating drawings, cabinet layouts for the ceiling, we must not forget that it is assembled in a supine position, and then it will need to be lifted and placed. Then its diagonal should be 3-5 cm shorter than the height of the ceiling. Otherwise, lifting the cabinet may hit the ceiling.

Manufacturing

After the drawings are ready, you can start manufacturing the necessary parts. Sawing boards is a rather difficult task, and it is better not to test yourself, but to order this work from professionals. As a rule, such a service is provided at the place of purchase of chipboard sheets. The difficulty lies in the fact that the machine for sawing chipboard is enough expensive pleasure, and it is pointless to purchase it for one cabinet. Many people prefer to saw on their own with a jigsaw, but this results in chips, so it's better not to risk it.

It is necessary to decide in advance on the door opening system: to the sides, up, down, move as in a compartment. Taking into account the number of shelves, drawers, doors, it is possible to calculate the required number of euro screws, rivets for them, guides for drawers, holders.

Separately, it must be said about the drills. They should be only on wood, which will allow you to make an exact hole yourself without the use of additional forces. Their characteristic difference is the presence of a blade in the center and a flat profile (and not a cone, as in other types). Before assembling, it is important to practice drilling on unnecessary scraps that will remain after sawing chipboard.

To avoid errors in measurements, you need to use high-precision instruments. Roulettes should be avoided, and preference should be given to a metal meter and half-meter ruler, which can be purchased at every stationery store. But beware of Chinese-made plastic counterparts, they often have errors that can be a serious drawback when assembling a product.

Felt pads will help facilitate further movement of the cabinet. They should be glued to the places where the object stands.

Making a closet

Let's consider how to make a wardrobe yourself, using the example of furniture with hinged doors. It is believed that this type of assembly is quite simple compared to a coupe, because there is no need to assemble the doors and frame separately. The design has many variations, which gives room for imagination and allows you to choose the model that will meet all requirements. The wardrobe can be filled with shelves, drawers, a bar for hangers. Such a model will be convenient both at home and in the country.

Dimensions swing cabinet are also individual, which allows you to fit it into any layout of the apartment, including Khrushchev. Consider the drawings, diagrams using the following dimensions as an example: 2200x600x1500 mm.

Details of a piece of furniture:

  • Sheets for sidewalls: 2184x575 - 2 pcs.
  • Bottom: 1468x575 - 1 pc.
  • Lid: 1500x600 - 1 pc.
  • Shelves: 976x575 - 2 pcs.
  • Shelves: 476x575 - 5 pcs.
  • Wall: 268x500 - 2 pcs.
  • Facades: 2081x497 - 3 pcs.
  • Drawer side: 100x1468 - 1 pc.
  • Drawer guides: 100x500 - 4 pcs.
  • Int. boxes - 100x386 - 4 pcs.
  • Bottom for boxes: 497x415 - 2 pcs. Fiberboard.
  • Partition: 2068x575 - 1 pc.
  • Wall: 2081x1497 - 1 pc. Fiberboard.
  • Planks: 976x50 - 1 pc., 476x50 - 1.

In order to make a cabinet yourself, you will need: chipboard, fiberboard, edge, confirmations, screws, handles, legs, guides, rod.

The cabinet has large dimensions, so the load on the bottom increases. It is recommended to attach kitchen legs to the bottom, which have a number of significant advantages:

  1. Good price.
  2. Possibility of regulation. This point is of great importance, since not all houses have ideal floors. It is especially important when installing furniture in the country, in Khrushchev. Thanks to the legs, you can always adjust the desired height and level the cabinet.
  3. Load distribution.

When installing drawers, it is desirable to install mortise handles. If it is planned to put ordinary ones, then the drawers need to be moved inside the furniture, otherwise they will interfere with the facade, the cabinet will have open doors. Therefore, in order not to have to redo ready product, you should take care of the choice of accessories in advance.

Wooden furniture

A homemade wardrobe made of solid wood is an expensive pleasure and a luxury item in the house. When choosing a material, the following rules should be followed:

  • The wood must not have knots.
  • There should be no layers in the mass of the tree.
  • Annual rings should be close to each other.

In order to make furniture out of wood, 2 types of shields are made from it:

  • Whole - from one piece of wood.
  • Glued - this is when thin shields are glued to each other, and then pressed. It is believed that the second type of array is stronger. It does not change its shape, even when subjected to stress.

Types of wood:

  • Hard: maple, oak, elm, beech, rowan, walnut, ash, apple, elm and sycamore. They make product frames from it, serious structures that will be subject to loads.
  • Soft: pine, cherry, willow, alder, cedar, spruce, juniper, poplar, aspen, chestnut and fir. Suitable for decorative elements, facades.

Most cabinets are made from solid oak. It has several advantages:

  • Easy to handle.
  • Insects don't like it.
  • Doesn't rot.
  • Durable.
  • Does not react to humidity.

Another suitable material is beech. In terms of strength, it is not inferior to oak, so you can safely make furniture from it. But beech has a drawback - it easily absorbs moisture, which is not a good sign. But if the closet will be in the bedroom or another room with a favorable climate, you can safely choose the array as the material for the future product.

The manufacture of a cabinet from solid wood is carried out in the same way as from other materials, which allows the use of similar drawings. But it is not recommended to equip the whole house with them. The material is expensive and very capricious. It should be remembered that solid wood products do not like changes in temperature and humidity. Otherwise they swell up. Taking into account that many houses, apartments, cottages are equipped with a floor heating system, air conditioners, it will not be easy to create comfortable conditions for furniture.

At the same time, the array makes the dwelling truly royal, chic. Therefore, before use, it is important to treat the tree with special compounds in order to reduce its susceptibility to the environment.

Making a wardrobe for yourself is not such a laborious process as it might seem at first glance. By clearly following the instructions and advice, you can independently assemble any cabinet or built-in piece of furniture.

You will need drawings, according to which the entire assembly process will actually take place.

To easily assemble built-in or corner cupboard with their own hands, drawings and diagrams should display all the necessary dimensions and distances at which specific ones should be fixed.

It is very important that before you determine the external dimensions of the cabinet, carefully measure the room in which it will be installed with a tape measure.

Pay attention to details such as skirting boards, baguettes, a light switch, a window sill or a radiator and take into account the indents on them.

You can even draw a drawing of any cabinet by hand, but it is better to use special programs CAD, such as Compass 3D or AutoCAD. In these programs, you will not need to learn all the functionality. To create furniture drawings, you can use a completely limited functionality, which is not so difficult to figure out as it might seem at first glance.

Compass 3D tools

Let's take a look at the interface of one of these programs - Compass 3D (by the way, the portable version is very convenient).

Let's take a look at the most basic tools you'll need:

Well, you also need a bindings panel, which is a virtual ruler.

Creating a wardrobe drawing

When creating a drawing of our cabinet, you need to start with external dimensions, i.e. with the dimensions of its box (width and height).

On the diagram, be sure to show the thickness of all chipboard parts, usually it is 16 mm.

That is, first you draw a cabinet box, and then you start to fill it (shelves).

In general, the drawing needs to show two main views:

  • Front view
  • Side or top view

Front view

On this sketch, you need to indicate the dimensions (width and height of the wardrobe). Also note the height of the plinth, the width of the sections and the distance between the shelves. Specify the dimensions directly at the attachment points along the length of the sidewall.

That is, in order to fix a shelf or partition in a cabinet at a certain height from the floor or edge, you need to specify the size from the beginning of the part to.

Think about how you will attach these parts, at what distance and from what. Specifying the size will help you with this.

Top or side view

This sketch should show, firstly, the overall depth of the cabinet. Also indicate the depth of the internal shelves. By the way, they will be 100 mm less than the total depth, because. exactly 100 mm will be needed for. Drawings of sliding wardrobes for four doors

Using the drawing to assemble the wardrobe, you can assemble the wardrobe you like and please your family. Good luck!

Sliding wardrobes are popular regardless of the footage of the apartment and the income of the owners. Attracts the convenience of their use, the ability to adapt to the conditions of the room. It is quite possible to make them yourself if you know the design features, calculations and installation.

Types of sliding wardrobes - from what material, where to install

It is easier to make a rectangular wardrobe with your own hands, radius ones with a curved surface are within the power of professionals. The most convenient place for installation is a niche. The attractiveness of this location is that an inconvenient place becomes useful, practically without affecting the living space.

Installation in the opening between rooms saves the cost of the partition and its finishing, and the built-in closet separates the rooms. The coupe can be installed in the corridor near the wall, which is especially beneficial for small apartments: it does not take up much space, which is not enough.

Cabinet sliding wardrobes are also used for zoning rooms. They do not have a back side, they have two front ones, access to the wardrobe from both sides. A small room should not be overloaded with furniture, use the standard one. in the hallway large sizes you can install a spacious wardrobe. If the area allows, then you can easily realize the dream of every woman - the closet turns into a dressing room. Costs increase with size. Below is a diagram of a large closet for the hallway.

Many materials are suitable for the compartment, among them - laminate, lining, MDF. Only in this case it is necessary to make frames for door leaf from wood. They use chipboard, which is convenient for installation due to its large size. The use of drywall is possible, but the material is fragile, does not withstand heavy loads, sags noticeably without reliable fastening. An easy option is to use old wardrobe with the replacement of swing doors with sliding doors.

Room measurements - how to avoid installation difficulties

Making furniture requires right angles, and the walls of rooms with such accuracy are rare. Deviations from a rectangular shape can be centimeters, but even a few millimeters can cause installation difficulties. This is especially true for niches, where builders very rarely maintain a right angle.

Measurements are carried out at several points, the results are recorded. We retreat 20 cm from the back wall and mark the measurement points on parallel walls. We consider the height from the floor: the first points are at a distance of 0.8 m, the second - 1.4 m and the third - 2.2 m. Then we retreat from the first measurements by 30 cm and take another one at the same height. Deviations will have to be corrected with plaster. Walls in a niche can be primed with a water-based emulsion, and then painted with acrylic enamel and forget about dust on the surface for many years.

We check the horizontalness of the floor and ceiling with a level, and there may be problems with the rectangularity of the opening. You can’t measure it yourself with a lace, and the accuracy is too low. We use a simple fixture of two rails with pointed ends. We fasten them in the middle with rubber rings, insert them diagonally into the opening, at the point of convergence we make a continuous mark with a pencil on the surface of both rails. We check another angle and look at the marks: the difference in the thickness of the risks is 0.3–0.4 mm.

Dimensional calculation - influence on cabinet design

Before installing the cabinet in a niche, we determine its width, which furniture makers mean by length. It should not be made as close as possible, it is better to deviate from the minimum niche length of 6 cm, then the cabinet is guaranteed to enter the opening. If the structure is located autonomously against the wall, we reduce the tolerance.

When determining the length, we also take into account the dimensions of the material, which must be known in advance. Using chipboard, we mean that the size of the plate is 1830 mm × 2750 mm. Drywall 2.5 or 3.0 m long, 1 m wide. We try to make the width of the cabinet equal to the width of the plate or less. Then there will be no difficulties with installation. As for lining and MDF, we try to ensure that the length of the cabinet is a multiple of the width of the strips.

Sometimes it is required to make furniture that exceeds the standard width in its width. sheet material. The easiest way is to increase the missing length with a segment. At the junctions of the bottom and ceiling, we get weakness which can deform under load. To avoid this, we put supports at the joints. You can make two cabinets, and then connect them into a single whole. The only drawback is the overspending of materials on an extra wall.

When calculating the depth, we take into account the usable space used for storage, then add 100 mm to it for the sliding system. We choose the height of the cabinet 10 cm less than the distance from the floor to the ceiling, excluding the height of the roof. This will allow you to assemble a massive product in a horizontal position, then lift it up without hitting the ceiling.

Rigid frame and strong base - a condition for the stability of furniture

With insufficient rigidity of the frame, the cabinets sway, and the main reason for this is the lack of stiffeners. A fiberboard sheet for the back walls cannot provide it. We add transverse screeds from chipboard 25 cm wide to each section at different levels, fasten with confirmations. This arrangement will provide maximum rigidity.

For a drywall cabinet frame, only a metal profile with purchased fasteners is acceptable.

Incorrect location and insufficient number of supports will cause the bottom to deform under load. To avoid this, we install supports 30–40 mm from each bulkhead. The sliding wardrobe can be installed on through supports 25 mm high with the possibility of adjustment through the holes in the bottom. The only inconvenience is the gap between the bottom and the floor, which will be a garbage collector. The second option is to use kitchen legs 100 mm high.

Filling - installation of shelves, drawers and clothes rail

If the shelves are located in separate sections at different levels, there are no problems: the use of confirmations will do. Where it is impossible to screw them in, corner furniture ties are installed. When installation on the same center line is required, a "helicopter" can be used for fastening with confirmations. In the middle of one of the shelves we screw in a confirmation, turn it along the axis. We screw two confirmations into the shelf opposite, return it to its place. On opposite sides, we also fasten each shelf with two confirmations.

When calculating the installation of drawers, do not forget about the height of the lower rail so that the drawer does not rest against it.

To store clothes on hangers in the closet, we install a bar in a longitudinal or transverse arrangement. The classic longitudinal rod requires a minimum depth of 60 cm. The transverse version uses a retractable rod. Its fastening is carried out with four screws, which is unreliable. Instead of a lift rod, it is better to install a regular one. We fasten two longitudinal boards of chipboard vertically to the top shelf, we attach a shortened bar to them in the usual way.

Calculation of the door width - the principle "so as not to interfere"

When the door is moved to the side, it should completely open access to the section and not interfere with the pull-out of the drawer or lowering the pantograph lift. Consider an example with a three-section compartment with a width of 2100 mm:

  1. 1. We measure the width of the inner opening. In our example, using chipboard, it will be 2068 mm.
  2. 2. We take away the double width of the buffer tape pasted on the outer doors of the cabinet. The thickness of each is 6 mm, for a total we get 2068 minus 12 - 2056 mm.
  3. 3. We take into account the overlap of doors, which in a three-section cabinet is 26 mm on both sides, which is 52 mm in total. The total width of all doors is: 2056 mm plus 52 mm, 2108 mm comes out. We divide the total width by three, and it comes out 703 mm.

Such a simple calculation will provide free access to the sections.

Door suspension - features of different systems

There are suspension systems, where there are two guides, and with a monorail. The bottom rail system is the most widely used. The top rail only serves to support the doors. The system does not jam, the touch of the wings is excluded. Mounting is simple: insert the top into the groove, lift it, put the bottom in place.

The system based on the upper rail is simple, the fittings are cheap, and the installation is simple. The movement of the wings is quiet and smooth. It has significant drawbacks, so it is rarely used. If you carelessly press the door, the rollers can come out of the grooves, the door goes inside the cabinet. The upper rail does not have great rigidity; a perfectly flat ceiling and reliable fastening are required.

In a monorail system, each door runs on paired rollers on separate rails. They keep the doors from staggering to a certain extent, the lower guide is not used. The suspension is precise, rigid, well regulated. But they install the monorail mainly in the bedroom, where only adults will use the closet, since handling such a system requires accuracy.

Door structures - step by step assembly guide

  1. 1. We calculate the length of the profiles and cut them. The height of the wings depends on the clearances required for normal operation, they are indicated in the instructions for the suspension elements.
  2. 2. We drill holes for fastening the vertical handle profile: outer 10 mm, inner 5.5 mm. We drill 5.5 mm holes in the inner and outer wall, then drill up to 10 mm in the outer wall. Mounting and adjusting parts freely pass through the outer hole and are attached to the inner one.
  3. 3. We install the profiles on the filler: first horizontal, then vertical. It happens that the profile is tight, then we use a rubber mallet, with which we apply neat blows, but not directly along the profile, but through a piece of wood.
  4. 4. We connect profiles. In the upper part, we screw the self-tapping screw into the profile, but not completely, so that there is space left, install the roller and tighten the self-tapping screw. We tighten the profiles from below, insert the lower rollers into the horizontal profile, screw the adjusting screw through the hole in the vertical profile.
  5. 5. Install the top guide. There are no nuances here, the only thing to observe is the absence of gaps with the side walls.
  6. 6. Before installing the lower rail, we lay it from below, setting the stoppers, and hang one sash. We shift the bottom rail by 20 mm inside the cabinet and fasten it.
  7. Built-in wardrobes diagrams and drawings

    The most popular coupe designs are built-in and separate. Collect them from ready-made kits or order cutting to your own size. To facilitate calculations, we offer universal drawings of sliding cabinets. You just have to take them as a basis and adapt to the required size.

A wardrobe is a bulky and fundamental thing that is necessary in every home. Often purchased furniture is not suitable for the price, as intermediaries greatly inflate prices, sometimes they do not match in size or design. In this case, you usually have to look for a small company that is ready to fulfill a personal order. However, as practice shows, workshops ask for a lot of money. by the most profitable solution in this situation is the independent manufacture of the cabinet at home.

Kinds

Before you get started, you need to decide what kind of cabinet you need. Depending on the location, there are two main types:

  • Embedded Models, the main advantage of which is the presence of a floor, ceiling and some walls. This condition significantly reduces the cost of the project. Such options are convenient, since they can be adjusted to any existing niche: recesses in the walls, space under the stairs. Oddly enough, this is also a disadvantage of built-in models, since they are built for a specific place and changes are no longer implied. Among other things, the curvature of the load-bearing surfaces greatly affects the quality of the cabinets, so they must be leveled before starting the project.
  • Cased standalone cabinets are classic version. Models can be used in any type of premises. Dismantling and transfer from place to place is possible. Also, curved walls, floor or ceiling will not affect the installation. Among the disadvantages, one can note the high consumption of materials, compared with built-in modifications, and the associated increased cost. However, with proper selection of components, the cost can be reduced.
  • Partially embedded models are a cross between the first two options.

Depending on the type of doors, cabinets are classified as follows:

  • Wardrobe with sliding doors and rigid frame. Two subspecies can be distinguished: with a roller door movement mechanism and with a monorail. After appearing on the market, such options have gained popularity with a variety of models, designs, and internal content. In addition, the advantages are multifunctionality, saving space in the room.
  • Models with hinged doors. Long service life is the main plus of such options. As well as practicality and durability.
  • Lift door options.
  • Open, doorless cabinets.

Designers also divide cabinets according to the way they are assembled and style. The style is diverse: folklore, hi-tech, baroque, empire, modern, rococo.

In terms of equipment, the following models can be distinguished:

  • Typical options are typical for large industries, are manufactured according to standard sizes, no frills. Practical and functional furniture. Most often used for offices.

  • Serial production is a mass option. Represents the release of products in one line, with certain characteristics within the same concept.
  • Modular wardrobes have always been popular. Their advantages are mobility and functionality. Such structures can be divided into separate sections, easily dismantled, rearranged, combined with each other.

If we consider cabinets in shape, then the most common options are:

  • Linear, in other words, straight.
  • Angular (depending on the shape of the angle L or U shaped).
  • Round. Rounded side or front panels.
  • Rectangular.

Depending on the number of doors, there are double-leaf, single-leaf, three-leaf or open without doors. Of course, combined options are also popular.

The most main characteristic wardrobes are functional. Only after making a decision on the purpose of the structure, all of the above classifications are taken into account. According to the purpose of use, cabinets are:

  • For clothes. This includes wardrobes, wardrobes, which are characterized by hangers for dresses, suits, ties, trouser holders.
  • For storing things. Here you can note the cabinets for bed linen, chests of drawers.
  • Book. Use various modifications from open to combined.
  • In the hallway These models are characterized by shelves for shoes and hats, hangers, hooks, holders for umbrellas, a mirror, built-in sections for outerwear.
  • For kitchen. Often, these cabinets are equipped with specific mesh or pull-out shelves for kitchen utensils and utensils, hooks for towels and other small items.

materials

The most common materials for the manufacture of cabinet bodies are as follows:

  • Drywall. If a complex configuration is expected, then it is better to choose this option. Any shape can be bent from the GKL, since it is not afraid of deformation.
  • MDF. From furniture panels, which do not require cladding, rigid frames are made that do not require bending. The plate is characterized by a high density, unlike chipboard, which makes it more durable. The fittings sit better inside, the probability of chips when cutting the plates is low. A conditional disadvantage is a large mass. At a cost, the material is affordable, but more expensive than chipboard.
  • Chipboard or chipboard. For cutting sheets, it is better to use the services of a workshop. At home, the quality of saw cuts can be disappointing due to the lack of necessary woodworking tools. From chipboard, you can perform various complex elements if you have the skills and the necessary machines. Chipboard is distinguished by a laminated layer that protects the sheet from external influences, and the user from formaldehyde. In addition, the laminate is good for decorative purposes, as it imitates various coatings.

  • Plywood. The material has a low cost. The service life of plywood products depends on the thickness of the sheet, the quality of gluing, and the climate in the room. In any case, it is unsuitable for large structures of large mass, since it will bend under its own weight.
  • Whole boards. When choosing, it is better to use wood that is easy to process. Cabinets made of wood species such as maple, ash, acacia, mountain ash, walnut, oak will outlive their creators many times over. It should be borne in mind that the cost of the project in this case increases significantly.
  • Old boards. V Lately vintage style is gaining popularity. It allows you to give a second life to old things.

For example, having dismantled an old wardrobe, table, door from boards, you can create such an interior element as a wardrobe, cabinet, chest of drawers with your own hands.

  • Boxes. The fashionable craze for making furniture out of packaging cardboard is spread all over the world today. Typically one to three layers are used. Single-layer cardboard is usually used for internal walls and curved surfaces. To fill the volume - a material with a greater thickness. Box cabinets are the cheapest but most short-lived option.

Materials for the execution of facades are of no small importance:

  • The tape is convenient in every sense. For the facade, you can use the same materials as for the body, glued with a decorative coating. A wide range of films makes it possible to create vivid images, decorate a wardrobe in the style of an existing interior. In addition, it is easy to care for.

  • Wallpaper. An excellent and inexpensive solution for decorating the facade.

  • The mirror is the most popular option, but rarely carried out with self-made cabinets.

It must be remembered that the mirror surfaces are fragile, require certain tools for cutting and fitting to the required dimensions.

  • Clapboard. There are two types of material: wood and plastic. The facade, made of lining of various widths, is suitable for an eco-style interior, for country houses, balconies. Most often released wooden slats 4 classes. Type "C" panels are the least processed, and therefore may have knots and cracks. A, B and "Extra" are more attractive, besides they are different low level resins.

How to get started?

Initial stage self-manufacturing closet is designing.

It needs to be taken seriously, for this you need:

  • Determine the location of the future location of the structure. This depends on the size and quantity of materials needed.
  • You should decide what shape the cabinet is planned to be built: straight, corner, built-in, and so on.

  • Sketch out sketches of the exterior and interior content. Determine in advance how many sections, boxes, shelves will be. Fix the desired number of doors, sliding and hinged elements. Determine the order of the location of hooks, hangers, holders. Even the need to install a decorative facade should be decided at this stage.
  • Choose a material, determine the color of the product, comparing all the parameters with the style of the interior. If necessary, decide what texture the façade should have. Identify a company that produces furniture fittings, based on expert reviews.

After that, various measurements are performed and calculations are made. It must be understood that calculating the dimensions does not mean measuring the width and length of the cabinet. At the same time, it is necessary to measure the distance between the shelves, the width of the sections. All dimensions are transferred to the drawing for clarity.

When taking measurements, it must be taken into account that the standard sash width should not exceed one meter. In addition, you should also remember about the thickness of the sheet from which the body is made, so 1-2 centimeters are added to the width of the sash. In the same way, the allowance for the height of the door panels is calculated.

The scheme should be clear and take into account all the desired parameters. If it is difficult to perform such a drawing yourself, then you will have to turn to specialists.

Fastening Features

An important stage in the construction of a cabinet with your own hands is the selection of accessories. Today, the furniture industry offers a huge number of fasteners and connecting elements. Their characteristics depend on functional features cabinet and operating conditions.

Often for wooden cabinets with hinged doors, four-hinged door hinges are used, which are divided into several types:

  • Overhead. The most common option for sashes.
  • Semi-overlapping hinges are useful when one section is closed by two doors.

  • Internal or hidden are installed on inside doors.
  • Corner models are necessary for furniture located in corners, requiring the installation of doors at an angle of 45 degrees.

  • Inverted canopies allow you to open the door 180 degrees.
  • Piano mechanisms have a low degree of reliability, and therefore are rarely installed on cabinets.
  • Mezzanine hinges have a spring in their mechanism.

Glass sashes can be fixed using the following elements:

  • mounting strips;
  • fastening loops;
  • seal rings;
  • plugs.

For low canvases, two fasteners are enough; when extended to 1.5 meters or more, the number of loops is increased. Optionally, you can install a closer to protect your fingers from injury, and increase the durability of the mechanism.

There are several types of shock absorbers, different in technical parameters and installation method:

  • The damper is the simplest and cheapest. There are many options on the market, the simplest of which is a self-adhesive model. It is a disc of soft material with a thickness of 1.5 to 5 mm, a diameter of 7 to 10 mm, which is glued to the end of the case. For one sash you need at least two pieces.
  • Loop carrier. It should be noted that such designs must be purchased immediately with a loop from one manufacturer. The model has the effect of smooth closing of the sash.

  • Overhead and mortise shock absorbers, unlike those described above, do not depend on the type of hinges. The advantage of overheads is the ease of replacement, which happens infrequently. However, when mounting a door closer of this type, additional space is required for a hole in the box from the end wall. The advantage of the mortise option is that installation space is not required, on the other hand it is more difficult to replace it.

For folding doors, mechanisms are often installed that are designed to open up, down, or in the form of an accordion.

The models are easy to install, their cost is low, they are convenient to use:

  • Gas lifts and lifting mechanisms combine the functions of opening and closing up and down. The fundamental selection criterion is the weight of the sash, since the device has a different degree of force.
  • Mechanisms for opening in parallel, at an angle and accordion. Advantage - great access to contents, improved ergonomics of cabinets. The disadvantage is the cost.

Shelf mounts also have their own classification:

  • Stationary are attached using several types of holders.
  • Overhead, which are mounted to the wall, to the cabinet body or to the facade. The shelf in this case is superimposed on top. Represent different kinds corners.

  • Mortise built into the cabinet.
  • Brackets are used for heavy loads.

  • Retractable options consist of rollers and guide rails along which they move. In addition, the mechanisms are usually equipped with limiters and seals.
  • Rotating models. The main part is the axis of rotation, usually in the form of a pipe of the required height. Additional elements - fasteners for the upper and lower parts of the axis, flanges for mounting the shelf.

How to do it yourself: step by step instructions

Before you start working on a project, you need to prepare everything necessary materials, accessories and tools.

The following may be required:

  • drill or perforator;
  • level;
  • ruler or measuring tape;
  • pencil;
  • hammer;

  • glue;
  • self-tapping screws, fastening accessories;
  • screwdriver;

  • hacksaw or circular saw (if self-cutting of parts is implied);
  • iron;
  • construction knife.

The cabinet assembly scheme at home consists of several stages.

Part preparation:

  • From the sheets of the selected material, cabinet elements are cut: body walls, doors, shelves, drawer elements. Maximum accuracy is achieved with circular saw. Sawing can also be done with a hacksaw, but in this case, without skill and experience, chips are possible.

  • Edge processing. For edging, PVC tapes are used, matching in color. Their cost is low, and it is very convenient to process the edges with it. Typically, the thickness of the tape varies from 0.4 to 2 mm. Usually, a thicker one is used to process the apron of visible ribs, and thinner - for those hidden from the eyes. The scheme of actions in this case is as follows.
  • The iron is turned on at three-fourths of its maximum power.

  • The tape is applied to the end with an adhesive surface, ironed several times.
  • The edge is carried out with a soft, dry cloth, pressing firmly.
  • The rest of the tape is cut with a knife.
  • Hardware preparation. Need to collect right amount fasteners, hinges, handles, hangers and other important little things.

Frame assembly:

  • If the cabinet is built-in or will be located under the stairs, then most likely it will lack any frame elements: the lower or upper bar, sidewalls. In this case, the walls should be prepared for the installation of the structure, leveled, puttied, painted or glued.
  • If other options for cabinets are planned, then holes are drilled in the places of future fasteners.
  • Attach body parts together. First of all, the sidewalls are attached to the bottom, after which it is necessary to attach the upper part to them. For work, it is better to use the simplest fasteners - confirmations.
  • Checking verticality with a level.
  • If necessary, fix the back wall.

Installation of shelves and cabinets:

  • To begin with, they make a markup for dividing the internal space into sections. Next, note the location of the shelves and built-in cabinets.
  • Install partition walls. Depending on the plan, they can be either from floor to ceiling of the cabinet, or lower. In the latter case, the presence of a horizontal partition is implied.
  • Fasteners for internal filling are mounted on the side and sectional panels of the frame. If stationary shelves are planned, then these can be ordinary corners. In the case of retractable shelves or drawers, guide chutes are mounted.
  • Installation of other elements: hooks, holders, hanger rods.

Then the doors are fixed. In order to assemble the cabinet doors, it is necessary to adhere to certain algorithms for different options doors.

Closet:

  • Installation of the upper and lower guides, tracking their parallelism with the help of a plumb line.
  • Stopper installation.
  • Installation of roller elements on the door, if this type of mechanism is planned.
  • The doors are inserted into the grooves, starting from the top, until they click.
  • Check if the sash moves freely.
  • Installation of additional fittings if necessary.

Swing doors:

  • Hinges of the selected type are installed on the doors.
  • Shock absorbers are installed if necessary.
  • Handles are screwed in.
  • The verticality and the closing mechanism are checked.

Hinged and lifting doors:

  • For hinged doors, gas lifts are most often installed. Purchased mechanisms are always equipped with instructions. Please read it carefully before installation. First of all, fasteners for gas lifts are installed on the side parts of the cabinet body.
  • Such fasteners are installed on the doors that will rise.
  • Next, the doors are mounted using canopies or hinges from the side that is the future axis of rotation.
  • After attaching the elevators. To do this, their head must be put on the fasteners until it clicks on both sides.
  • With the door closed, make adjustments.
  • Professionals focus on the fact that at least 2 mechanisms must be installed on one facade in order to prevent warping.

Then the final processing of the cabinet is carried out. At the end of the assembly, a complete polishing of the appearance is performed. All screws are covered with decorative caps. Polishing with a soft cloth is necessary to clean the product from dust and drilling residues. Facades are designed depending on the designer's idea using mirrors and other decorative elements.

You can also see how to make a wardrobe with your own hands in the video below.

Organization of the internal space

The functional structure of the internal filling of cabinets consists of many elements that meet the requirements of the owner. A competent design should provide free access to any things in the closet, prevent the formation of odors.

Sliding and sliding drawers, rotating shelves are not only convenient to use, but also ergonomic in nature. They allow rational use inner space. For large wardrobes, lifting rods for hangers and trouser holders are often used, which can either rise or, if necessary, go deep into the closet. If the design is intended for the hallway, then it provides a box for storing shoes and shelves for hats.

Kitchen cabinets are filled with a variety of elements from spinning bar counters to retractable cutting board. Due to the fact that it is necessary to store many different accessories in the kitchen, the functionality of the interior decoration of the cabinets is many-sided and is determined only by the wishes of the owners.

How to place?

The closet is the most bulky element of the interior in the room. There are such options for their location, which will allow you to "hide" and not clutter up the space.

in a niche

If the apartment has natural niches, then this will greatly facilitate the task. The cabinet is simply built into them. Niches can be created artificially, which will allow not only to install storage structures in them, but also other interior elements: a fireplace, a TV.

Part of the room

If the area allows, then you can fence off a piece of the room and organize a wardrobe in it. At the same time, it is better to choose the darkest corner of the room so that the room remains bright.

Pantry

In private houses, there are always different pantries. Sometimes they are found in city apartments. If the owner wishes, the wardrobe can be perfectly hidden in the pantry. At the same time, the efforts for its design are minimal, since the functions of the body are performed by the walls of the room. It is enough to organize the internal content.

In the room

The standard options for installing cabinets in a room are as follows:

  • Wall to wall, floor to ceiling. Creates the effect of a solid wall. The design of facades with mirror surfaces will visually expand the space. When choosing doors of wall color, you can achieve the effect of "disappearing".

  • Alcove. Cabinets are installed on both sides, forming a niche between them. The alcove formed in this way is filled with any interior elements: a bed, dressing table, work zone, TV set.

  • openings. Distances between doors and windows can be used rationally with the help of modular cabinets. Structures are mounted on both sides of the opening, it is possible to organize mezzanines above the opening. The element connecting the cabinets under the window is often designed as a bench or sofa.

What can be done from an old closet?

If the old cabinet has lost its appearance, but the fasteners are intact and not loosened, the case also does not have significant flaws, in this case you should pay attention to various techniques, allowing you to remake or decorate outdated furniture.

To update cabinets, there are many budget options:

  • Repaint yourself, for example, using stencils.
  • You can glue the doors with photo wallpapers or vinyl film.

  • If the panels are glass or mirror, then you can use the services of private workshops for matting or sandblasting.
  • Decoupage using vintage paper or wallpaper.
  • Can be used in the kitchen tile for the design of facades.

If the fasteners still loosen and fall out, store the cabinet in original form impossible. In this case, elements for a different design can be cut out of its parts. Craftsmen create benches, shelves, pouffes and other interior details.

Ideas for location in the interior

Large built-in wardrobes are popular. They are installed both in the hallways and in the living rooms. Usually they occupy all the space provided from floor to ceiling. Internal filling is organized depending on the wishes of the owner. Benefits – functionality, embedability various elements for storage of things, including vacuum cleaners, ironing boards, washing and dishwashers. Such structures can be installed in any places inaccessible to cabinet furniture, in attics, niches, corners.