Metal siding in the pediment trim. How to make roof gable siding - theory and practice Gable at home from vinyl siding

Finishing the house includes many stages, one of which is the sheathing of the gable with siding. This process is not much different from working with facades, but has some nuances associated with the special geometry of the structure. The installation of panels does not require special equipment or expensive materials; there will be no problems during all stages.

What is needed for sheathing the pediment

To avoid delaying the installation process, it is advisable to prepare necessary materials in advance. To work you will need the following:

Siding. At the moment, there are many types on sale, but vinyl and metal are the most preferred. The first option is lightweight and excellent qualities, and the second requires a reliable foundation, but is distinguished by decorative durability.
Framing details. The framework can be made from wooden beam with a section of 50 * 40 or metal profiles mounted on suspensions. An alternative may be a special suspension system for siding, but it requires financial costs and fitting parts.
Thermal insulation material. Its use is not always necessary: for example, if the attic is non-residential. Laying insulation makes it possible to increase the energy efficiency of the house in regions with harsh winters, but subject to the insulation of the surface of the roof slabs.
Complementary elements. Depending on the technology chosen, you will need a starting rail, a J-profile, an inner corner, a soffit, a near-window bar (if there is a window with a slope) and a casing (an opening without a recess).
Steam and waterproofing. Protection from water is required for any work, and vapor barrier - when covering a living space with heating.
Fasteners: screws, nails.

Separately, material for scaffolding should be provided. Alternatively, other options may be used to allow work at height to be carried out without risk.

Siding calculation

Classic gable roof

Due to the fact that such a roof has the shape of a triangle, the formula is used to determine its area: ½ * (a * h).

Calculation guide:

The base of the pediment is measured (a).
From the top of the roof, the distance to the base (h) is measured.
Separately, the area of \u200b\u200bthe window, if any, is calculated. To do this, multiply the length by the width.
The area of one sheathing panel is indicated by the manufacturer on the label.

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The surface of the pediment can be both deaf and with the presence of window and attic openings. Gables are often made insulated to reduce heat loss through the ceiling. Sheathe them as in the process repair work as well as during construction.
Vinyl siding is the most commonly used material for cladding facades and gables of a house. This is due to its low cost, variety of assortment, durability and ease of installation.
Finishing the gable with siding does not require much time and effort. Following the manufacturer's instructions, it is possible to do the installation yourself.

The easiest way to get a beautiful front lawn

You have, of course, seen perfect lawn in the cinema, in the alley, and perhaps on the neighbor's lawn. Those who have ever tried to grow a green area in their area will no doubt say that this is a huge job. The lawn requires careful planting, care, fertilization, watering. However, only inexperienced gardeners think so, professionals have long known about the innovative tool - liquid turf AquaGrazz.

To prevent technical incidents, it is necessary to take the preparatory work seriously.

It is difficult and inconvenient to install siding panels from the stairs; you will need to install scaffolding.
Prepare a flat area for placing the siding in a horizontal position.
Purchase the necessary tools for work: a building level, a screwdriver, metal shears, a hammer, a tape measure, a plumb line, a jigsaw or a hacksaw, a construction square.
Calculate the required amount of material. Typically, the manufacturer indicates on the packaging what area this amount is calculated for. It is necessary to add 10% to the required quantity - a margin for marriage and cutting.

Exterior vinyl siding

Advantages and disadvantages:

siding is able to retain color and integrity for a long time. Its service life reaches 40 years;
with proper installation, the panels do not deform under the influence of temperature changes;
does not corrode under the influence environment;
resistant to fire;

The disadvantages include:

instability to mechanical influences;
no gaps during installation, which leads to deformation under the influence of temperature differences.

Each company uses its own production technologies, and therefore the thickness plastic panels may differ. Therefore, it is advisable to purchase additional material and ordinary siding from the same manufacturer.

For installation you will need:

ordinary siding;
starting profile for fastening the bottom of the first ordinary panel;
J-profile for installing siding around window and door openings;
H-profile for joining siding panels along the length;
corner elements for high-quality and aesthetic design of corners;
finishing strips to complete the design of the structure, closing ordinary siding panels from the ends.

Hardware

An important role is played by the choice of fastening material. Nails or self-tapping screws are used to fix the siding.
At a price, nails are much more affordable than galvanized self-tapping screws, but they have a number of disadvantages:

inconvenience of installation and dismantling. Siding panels are unstable to mechanical stress, and an inaccurate hammer blow can easily break their integrity;
over time, the fixation may loosen and lead to loosening, which will affect the appearance of the structure.

Self-tapping screws with the advent of a screwdriver are widely used. Their advantages include:

quick and easy installation;
the presence of a thread, which contributes to reliable fixation;
it is easy to adjust the degree of pressing the siding panel to the crate;
if necessary, it is possible to dismantle the finishing material without violating its safety.

Preference should be given to galvanized self-tapping screws with a flat head, the length of which should be at least 30 mm. To prevent the appearance of rust in the attachment points, special rubberized washers are used.
Knowing the area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment, it is easy to calculate the required amount of fixing material. In horizontal panels, the fastening step is 25-30 cm. H-profiles, J-profiles and corner elements are fastened in 40 cm increments. The average number of self-tapping screws required is per 10 square meters. m - 160 pieces.

Installation work

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the pediment of the building:

delete everything decorative elements protruding beyond the plane of the wall;
loose finishes, especially falling off, - update or completely remove;
the wooden facade must be checked for the reliability of fastening the boards and treated with antiseptic impregnations that prevent the appearance of mold and fungus;
it is better to give a new building time to shrink before starting to decorate the pediment.

crate

The crate is a support for fastening siding panels. The appearance of the finished roof and cornice depends on the degree of evenness of the surface on which the siding is attached. Therefore, it is required to perform it in an ideal plane.

The presence of a crate is also necessary for placement thermal insulation material and a hydro-barrier. About 30% of heat loss occurs through the roof.
The gap formed by the crate between the wall of the house and the siding panels promotes ventilation, reduces the formation of condensate, thereby normalizing the humidity in the room.

The crate of the pediment can be made of a wooden beam or a metal profile.
If preference is given to a wooden beam, it should be borne in mind that its humidity should be no more than 15%, the optimal section is 50 * 60 mm. To prevent corrosion, mold and insects, it must first be impregnated with an antiseptic solution.
When installing vinyl siding, the recommended distance between the pitches of the crate should be 40-60 cm. In areas prone to strong winds, it is desirable to reduce the pitch of the crate.

Metal crate

If the choice is made in favor of metal, it is necessary to choose a galvanized profile with stiffeners.
For fixing a metal profile to the base, brackets or suspensions are used.

They begin to mount the crate at the same time from two sides. A rope is pulled between the extreme profiles, which serves as a guide for observing the horizontal plane.
Then install the brackets on which the profile will be mounted. If the pediment is insulated, a heat-insulating layer and a vapor barrier are laid, after which the remaining profiles are installed.

If there are window and attic openings on the gable, the profile is additionally installed along the perimeter of the openings.

After installation is completed, be sure to check compliance with the plane using a level.

Wooden crate

The cost of a wooden crate is an order of magnitude lower. It will not be difficult to do it with your own hands.

To facilitate the work, the timber must be chosen even, dried (wet wood deforms over time and will lead the entire structure), impregnated with an anti-corrosion solution. It is advisable to use a timber according to the size of the gable of the roof.

If thermal insulation is not provided, then the crate can be attached to the base of the gable. To do this, the timber is pre-drilled and mounted to the wall through the holes obtained. Wedges are placed to maintain the plane.
If a heater is provided, the brackets are fixed according to the markup, then a layer of thermal insulation and a hydrobarrier are laid.
First of all, the extreme bars are installed, and the cord is pulled, which serves as a guideline for maintaining the plane.
After fixing the remaining timber. If there are window openings on the pediment of the house, an additional timber is attached around the perimeter.

Rules for fastening siding panels

Siding is subject to linear expansion in length under the influence of temperature changes. A three-meter panel, installed at an ambient temperature of +5 0, is extended by 12 mm in summer. These features of vinyl must be considered when cutting. The manufacturer indicates possible changes in parameters on the packaging. It will not be difficult to calculate the required size when making a cornice with your own hands.
So that the siding can freely expand and contract, the strip is measured by 1.5 cm smaller size gable. Leave a gap of at least 1 mm between the screw head and the siding. You need to install the hardware in the middle of the hole that is used to fix the panel. Failure to comply with these requirements leads to deformation of the cladding of the house.

Installation of plastic panels

When arranging the roof and eaves with siding, for the first time it is better to start with a blank gable. At the level of the ceiling, you need to install a low tide. Fasten it with press washers to each profile of the crate and along the end to increase rigidity. If there is a window opening, you must first put slopes and ebb on it. All edges must be flared to prevent moisture from getting behind the frame of the batten. Install a J-profile around the opening.
Above the ebb, a starting bar is attached, the position of which must be strictly horizontal. When installing several starting strips, 10 mm is left between them.
The next step is to set the internal corners.

On this preparatory work for the installation of siding with their own hands are finished. You can start installing vinyl panels on the gable of the house.
You can use a grinder to cut the siding, but in this case you have to raise the electrical wires to the level of the roof of the house. In this case, scissors are used for convenience. In order not to have to measure the angle of the roof for each panel, it is advisable to make a template. But keep in mind that the slope of each slope may be different, you need to make two templates, left and right.

At correct installation vinyl panels should sound a characteristic click. The very last panel needs to be decorated with a finishing bar and decorated with a corner element. The roof overhangs are sheathed last.
All houses with sloping roofs are equipped with cornices. Usually the length of the cornice is from 40 cm to a meter. Protecting the roof and walls of the house from rain and snow is the main function of the eaves. For its sheathing, soffits are used, which have ventilation holes in their design, which contribute to the ventilation of the space under the roof. Decorating the eaves with siding begins with the installation of the frame. It must be assembled in two perpendicular planes, at right angles to each other. After sheathing the eaves with siding, you need to close the cut joints with a finishing profile and a J-bevel.
If you follow all the recommendations indicated by the siding manufacturer, do-it-yourself roof eaves sheathing will take a little time and effort.

You will be able to pay 30-50% less for electricity, depending on which electrical appliances you use.

How to sheathe the gable of the house with siding?

An integral element of a house with a pitched roof is the pediment. It performs not only the functions of enclosing structures, but also serves as a decoration of the house and part of its facade. Therefore, it is so important to correctly complete the sheathing of the pediment so that it is warm in the attic or attic floor, and outside the pediment part is in harmony with the entire building and performs aesthetic functions. In our article, we will list the materials that are suitable for exterior finish this part of the structure, as well as briefly describe the nuances that you should know before sheathing the pediment of the house with siding or doing it in case of using lining and corrugated board.

Features of the gable device

Part outer wall at home, bounded from below by the overlap of the building, and from above by the planes of the pitched roof, is called the pediment. At the same time, pediments will inevitably appear when arranging a broken, gable or shed roof, as well as a half-hip roof. In the latter case, this constructive part of the building will not have a triangular shape, but a trapezoidal one. When using a sloping roof of the house, the pediment will be polygonal, and in the case of mounting a vaulted roof, the shape of the pediment will be rounded.

Before deciding how to sheathe the pediment of the house with your own hands, it is important to figure out which technological group this design belongs to:

Most cheap option, suitable for doing it yourself, is a pediment erected according to frame technology. In this case, the insulation is laid between the racks of the frame, and the gable wall itself is sheathed along the frame. This method of arranging the pediment is actively used in private construction as the most simple option light roof construction.
You will have to sheathe a solid gable wall if the house is being built from gas blocks, brick, cylindering or timber. This method of arranging the pediment is more complex and requires the performer to have at least basic knowledge in the construction business. In this way, the gables of buildings that are exposed to overhaul and reconstruction. Although this method can be used to sheathe a house built of ordinary brick or cellular concrete, after which it will acquire a beautiful and respectable look.

Important: the pediment can be made from the same material as the walls of the house, or made from a different material. For example, in brick house there may be a pediment built using frame technology, or in a stone house, rounded beams can be used to make the pediment.

The main functions of the pediment:

Wind protection. Since the pediment is exposed to wind, it must be strong enough and airtight.
This structural part of the building supports the pitched roof. Though roof structure rests on the walls of the house and the Mauerlat, the pediment additionally supports the slopes. This is especially true for roofs covered with slate or natural tiles.
If there is a residential area under the roof attic floor, then the functions of preserving heat in the room are assigned to the pediment. In this case, before sheathing the gable of the house, it is important to provide for high-quality wall insulation.
To protect the walls of the house and the under-roof space from moisture, the pediment should be trimmed with moisture-resistant material, which will increase the tightness of the structure.
The sheathing layer on the pediment also performs aesthetic functions. It depends on how you sew the pediment how beautiful the whole house will look.

Sheathing materials

It is up to you to decide how to decorate your house. If the work will be done by hand, then in addition to beauty and practicality, the material should be easily and quickly mounted. That is why the following materials are most often used for self-plating this part of the house:

Some craftsmen manage to sheathe the gable part of their house with moisture-resistant plywood, OSB or drywall, and then plaster and paint it with facade paints. But this option is not very durable and practical. You can also find gables made of opaque polycarbonate. However, this option can hardly boast of high heat and sound insulation characteristics.

Clapboard lining

If you want to choose a cheaper material for sheathing, then there is nothing better lining. This product is suitable for do-it-yourself installation, has a pleasant color (although it can be painted in the desired shade), and also stands out with a beautiful texture of natural wood.

Sheathing the gable of the house with a board (lining) is carried out according to wooden frame from a bar. Nails and screws are used as fasteners. When installing the lining, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

Since wood is exposed to microorganisms, it needs additional protective treatment with antiseptic compounds.
To protect against burning, the lining and frame are treated with flame retardants.
Any protective composition needs to be re-applied after 1-2 years.
To protect the material from the negative effects of atmospheric moisture, the boards should be painted with a suitable paint and varnish composition.
The lining has a convenient tenon-groove fastening, which greatly simplifies and speeds up installation.
If the pediment is sheathed with an overlap board, you get a beautiful herringbone finish.

Important: without protective coatings, clapboard trim can last a maximum of 5 years, after which appearance the material will deteriorate and it will begin to break down. With protective treatment, the service life of the lining reaches 20 years, provided that the coating is regularly updated.

siding finish

Sheathing a pediment with vinyl siding with your own hands is no more difficult than clapboard. This material is distinguished by reasonable price and practicality. It is more durable than lining, and does not need regular updating of the protective coating. Such a sheathing is suitable for a frame-type pediment, for a house made of timber, logs, bricks, concrete, stone and cellular concrete. Siding is mounted on a frame made of timber or metal profiles.

You should know that in addition to the siding itself, to finish the gable, you will need additional elements, start and finish strips, connecting profiles, an inner and outer corner, a window strip and a J-profile. In addition, it is worth remembering that vinyl siding does not mount directly to the wall. Between it and the enclosing structure, whether it be a wall or a heater between the racks of the frame, there must be a ventilation gap that will not allow condensate to collect under the finish.

Some of the benefits of siding include:

Impressive service life. This finish can last up to 50 years.
Acceptable price. The most acceptable cost for vinyl siding, metal and asbestos-cement options will be a little more expensive.
Large selection of colors, textures and design options. Thanks to this, you can easily choose the finishes for the overall style and color of the house.
High moisture resistance. The material is not afraid of precipitation. It can even be washed if necessary.
Finishing is not subject to damage by microorganisms and insects.
This material is easy to maintain, since it does not need any impregnation, painting. To refresh the facade, it is enough to wash it with water from a hose.

Attention: since vinyl panels are subject to thermal expansion, it is very important to properly install the product. To do this, it is necessary to leave gaps for the deformation expansion of the material and not fasten the self-tapping screws too tightly.

Sheathing with corrugated board

No less cheaply and quickly can sheathe the gable of the house with corrugated board. This product is made of thin galvanized steel with a polymer coating. To increase the strength, profile ridges are made on the sheet, which act as stiffeners. Wall corrugated board (beech marking “C”) is suitable for sheathing the pediment, which has the most reasonable price.

With this material, it is possible to veneer the gable part of the house made of brick, cellular concrete, logs or timber. It is attached to a special frame using self-tapping screws with sealing gaskets.

Among the advantages of this material it is worth listing the following:

Significant dimensions of one sheet and low weight significantly speed up and simplify the installation process.
The coating is not afraid of moisture, resistant to corrosion, damage by microorganisms, fading. The material is resistant to mechanical stress and temperature extremes.
At a price, corrugated board will cost less than siding.
On sale you can find products with different profile configurations and different colors of the polymer coating, so you can easily choose the option that suits your home.
During installation, a minimum of scraps is obtained, which is an additional savings point.
Installation of corrugated board is so simple that even a beginner can cope with this task.

Tip: for finishing the walls of the house and its gable part, it is better to use corrugated board with a sheet thickness of at least 1.5 mm. Thinner products are easier to bend and deform during installation.

Since the profiled sheet itself has low sound insulation, during its installation it is better to lay heat-insulating material between the racks of the frame, which will additionally insulate the under-roof space and protect it from the rumble that occurs due to the impact of drops during rain. A vapor barrier membrane must be attached over the heat-insulating material, which protects against moisture and condensate.

How is the pediment trimmed with siding

Unlike working with facades, pediment siding does not look so simple. The geometry of the structure is taken into account and additional special equipment is required.

Correct calculation of the amount of materials

To sheathe the gable with siding, the amount of materials is calculated. The type of structures is taken into account, and various factors are taken into account:

Distance to base.
The area of the element.
At Goal tilt.
Roof height.

For triangular gables

To calculate materials for a triangular pediment, first of all, the base is measured. The height of the structure is also taken into account. The dimensions are multiplied and the area is divided by the area of one panel. For the convenience of calculations, all values are reduced to one unit of measurement - square meters.

For clarity, consider specific example. The building may have a gable base of 3.45 meters and a height of 3.8 meters. When calculating the area, the value is 0.732 square meters. For the above area, by multiplying the values \u200b\u200bthe sum of 6.55 square meters is obtained.

Next, the number of required panels is directly calculated. To do this, the previously obtained value (6.55 square meters) is divided by the area of one panel - 0.732 square meters. The builder receives a value of 8.948 square meters, this figure can be rounded up to 89.5. In this way, a figure is obtained that corresponds to the number of siding panels in the original data.

For trapezoidal gables

In order to calculate the material, when there are trapezoidal gables, a special formula is provided that takes into account the length of the top line and the height of the structure. It is necessary to mark the break point of the roof and calculate the distance from the edge. For example, you can take as a basis a house with a gable base length of 6 meters, a top line length of 3 meters, and a height of 1.8 meters.

To calculate, the numbers 6 and 3 are adjusted, divided in half and multiplied by the height. As a result, 8.1 square meters matter. Further, this value must be divided by the area of one panel. For example, it is 0.732 square meters, resulting in a value of 11.06. After rounding the data, it turns out that more than 110 panels will be required to finish the siding in this case.

For pediments of complex architectural form

There are houses with various ledges, distortions. Windows, various openings can be provided in the design. In such a situation, professional builders offer to divide the structure into separate elements, and calculate the area for different sections.

Preparatory work is directly related to the determination of the area window openings, and this will require only two parameters - their length and height.

If the design provides for several windows, the obtained indicators are added up. Next, you have to do some drawing and apply the existing multifaceted shape to a piece of paper. For simplicity, it is divided into simple figures. As in the case of windows, the area is determined individual elements and then summed up.

At the end of the work, do not forget to take away the area of window openings. Using the example of previous calculations, the user will be able to determine the exact number of required panels.

For sheathing eaves and gable overhangs

The overhang is the part of the roof that protrudes beyond the wall, and the cornice is its horizontal part. Therefore, the front line is a vertical element. Everything is subject to sheathing with spotlights, and the ends are not left without attention, strips of various shapes are used (droppers are suitable). The calculation of materials begins with measurements of the length of the cornice, width and height.

To facilitate operations, all values are converted to running meters.

When the total area is found, everything is much simpler. By a similar principle, the quadrature of the gable overhangs is found. According to the previous example, it is important to know the area of one soffit and perform a division operation.

Rules and features of connections of additional elements

For ease of installation of panels, it is necessary to take into account the rules for connecting additional elements. Missing panels can sometimes be ordered from a store, many manufacturers work according to drawings, taking into account the size of the panels, their shape. When considering additional elements, the main part is a perforated bar, some call it a nail part.

It is located only on one side of the panel and is intended for fixing fittings. During installation, the gap between the self-tapping screw and the perforated bar is taken into account. To make the connection reliable, locks are used that look like protrusions. Manufacturers on the market offer planks of interesting shapes, you can always try something new for finishing.

When installing elements, specialists are guided by the correct installation by a characteristic click.

If we consider window techniques, completely different additional elements are used there. It is important to take into account the length of the protrusions, while the bar is inserted into the recess. When working with door techniques, there is no need to achieve a tight docking of the panels. The fixation of the element is carried out on self-tapping screws, which are attached to the nail strip.

If the panel fits snugly against the crate, such a design cannot be called stable. It is recommended to leave a small gap, namely, one millimeter. This will allow the panel to move freely in case of mechanical impact.

Thus, cases of rapid deformation of the elements are excluded. When installing, you should always be prepared to trim the nail strip in order to control the width of the gap. Separate fasteners are used for different types of siding. Considering the vinyl metal type, galvanized fasteners are suitable.

Instruments

When the material is prepared, it's time to take the tool:

Drill and screwdriver.
Angle grinder or electric jigsaw.
Building level, tape measure and ruler.
Square to determine the correct installation of the panel.
Hammer and mallet.
Knife for metal.

Sheathing and insulation

Finishing the pediment is impossible without installing the frame. Provided different kinds crates, it is important to understand the techniques of framing. When it comes to insulation, different materials are available and you have to act depending on the conditions.

Metal crate

Galvanized profiles are available on the market and it is recommended to look for products with stiffeners. In order to fix the structure, you can not do without brackets, suspensions are used. In this case, there is no clear step-by-step instruction for execution; it is recommended to fasten the crate simultaneously on the left and right sides.

In order to orient the structure horizontally, a beacon is installed. The rope that is stretched between the profiles is best suited.

The next step is the installation of brackets, everything necessary for insulation is prepared in advance. The crate is fixed after installing the vapor barrier and the heat-insulating layer. The situation becomes more complicated if there are window frames, the architect will have to make markings around the perimeter. At the end of the work, the accuracy of fastening the frame is evaluated using the building level.

Wooden crate

This crate is chosen because of the low price. You can make it yourself and do not need to spend money in the store. The main condition is the selection of an even beam. Wood must be dry, deformations are not allowed. Separately, you will have to take care of impregnation with an anti-corrosion solution.

For the integrity of the structure, the beam is selected along the length of the pediment. Fastening a wooden crate is much easier without insulation. Work begins with making holes in the roof, which will later be used to fix the structure. To keep one level, wedges are installed.

In order to install thermal insulation or a hydro-barrier, brackets are fixed, operations are carried out according to marking. It is recommended to start the installation of the structure from the extreme bars, and then a cord is pulled between them. If there is a window attic opening on the pediment, the wooden frame is installed around the perimeter.

Sheathing the gable with siding

In order for siding gables to look decent even after a while, it is necessary to take into account the properties of the panels. They change their shape with temperature. As an example, you can take a workpiece 3 meters long. If it is mounted in conditions where the ambient temperature is + 45 degrees, in summer the panel will lengthen by 10 mm.

Such features of vinyl make you carefully approach the cutting process. The manufacturer indicates the exact deformation parameters on the product. To avoid the destruction of the base, the workpiece is selected less than the length of the pediment by 1.5 cm.

Metis is attached in the middle of the hole. Starting installation work, actions are carried out from a deaf gable. First of all, the ebb is set, it should be on a par with ceiling covering. To fix it, appropriate press washers are selected. Considering the case with a window opening, it is important to take care of the facing of slopes and ebbs.

The main problem is the need to close the edges, this weak spots and water can get in. The easiest way is to flare the edges and install the profile. When the tide is in place, the starting bar is fixed, its level is checked horizontally. If there is a need to fix several elements, a gap of 10 mm is provided.

At the next stage, the siding is fastened, but it must be cut in advance. An angle grinder is suitable for this, but the problem lies in the inconvenience of the location electric wire. As an alternative, many are looking at metal shears. It takes a novice builder a lot of time to work with each panel, but the process can be sped up if a template is used.

Simplifying the procedure for mounting panels, it is necessary to take into account the slope of the slope. When working with plastic blanks, a click is sure to be heard when fastening. The most extreme workpiece requires careful design, a finishing bar is used. There are various options for decorating.

Finishing work, overhangs are checked, it may be necessary to install cornices. When selecting an element, blanks 40 centimeters long are used. The quality of roof protection depends on the choice of eaves. As you know, it can be severely damaged during prolonged rains and snows.

Soffits are suitable as cladding, the presence of ventilation holes, so the roof breathes, there is access to oxygen. At the end of the work, cut joints remain, and finishing profiles are used to hide them.

How to sheathe the gable with siding? Diagrams and videos

The pediment of the building belongs to multifunctional structures, it provides protection of the attic or attic from wind, precipitation or heat loss and gives the building a complete look. When choosing a material for its cladding, preference is given to strong and rigid panels with minimal water absorption and good UV resistance, ideally without needing additional decorative trim. Siding fully complies with these requirements, providing good tightness and aesthetics.

Sheathing technology: rules and step by step instructions

When facing non-residential attic structures with cold roof and good evenness of the outer walls in the frame is not necessary, the siding is simply fixed between the guide profile. When choosing this option, the skin is easy to do by yourself, the costs will be minimal. The disadvantages include the impossibility of placing an insulating layer and the risk of deformation as the base materials wear out.

When choosing frame method installation of siding is carried out to the crate of wooden slats or metal, installed in increments of 40-50 cm. Almost all manufacturers recommend the second option and indicate that their panels are not designed to be attached to beams that collapse under the influence of moisture. When sheathing over a metal frame, there are no problems, the specified warranty periods (30-50 years) become real. The supporting profile is fixed on stainless U-shaped suspensions, the design acquires maximum reliability.

The main advantage is the possibility of placing thermal insulation between the beams; mineral wool slabs or sprayed varieties have characteristics suitable for this area. Styrofoam is used only in case limited budget, both because of its combustibility and because of its low resistance to UV and high temperatures(the constantly lit pediment often heats up, the space under its lining is doubly). Fibrous and open-cell types of insulation need additional protection from precipitation; for this purpose, the insulating layer is covered with appropriate films.

The walkthrough includes the following steps:

Drawing up a diagram, calculation of building materials, preparation of surfaces.
Installation of the frame and additional fasteners.
Placement of insulation, closing it with waterproofing films.
Template preparation, cutting.
Siding fastening: from starting strips to the finishing section.
Closing joints with a plastic corner, sheathing ebbs, window openings.
Installation of fixtures (if any).

Even before the start, supporting structures are selected and placed - scaffolding or reliable stepladders. On the preparatory stage the walls are cleaned of debris and dust and, if necessary, lightly leveled with plaster. When working with wood surfaces in without fail treated with flame retardants and antiseptics and dried well. All protruding and interfering elements are removed, large gaps are filled with mortar or moisture-resistant mounting foam.

The layout of the panels and the order of their installation depends on the direction of the profile. Horizontal cladding is easier to do on your own, difficulties arise only when finishing window openings.

Vertical laying is considered more attractive, fastening in this case is carried out from the starting bar installed in the center of the pediment. The original view has a profile diverging in different directions in the form of rays, but such projects are difficult to complete in the absence of experience. To eliminate errors during cutting, a life-size sketch is created, the siding is cut by applying cardboard templates to the walls.

At the stage of lathing, a straight metal profile or wooden bars with a cross section of at least 25 mm is attached to the base material. Their orientation depends on the method of finishing: horizontal or vertical. For support and fixation, galvanized hangers are used, placed in increments of no more than 50-60 cm. Additional strips are installed around future windows along the entire perimeter of the openings or in the areas where the luminaires are mounted. All wooden elements must be well dried and protected from fungus and insects. At the end, mineral wool slabs are fixed: tightly, without gaps and cracks, if necessary (in the case of an especially thick or two layers of insulation) tacked with dowels with dish-shaped caps, with a film covering with an overlap at the joint areas of at least 5 cm.

Make one frame, without additional support along the edges is unacceptable, correctly carried out facing of the gable implies the use of corners or a J-profile on the line of connection with the roof and as starting rails. With a horizontal arrangement of the siding, the lower bar is attached to the crate with galvanized self-tapping screws. At this stage, tight screwing is avoided, the hat is placed strictly in the center of a special hole, a gap of 1-2 mm remains between it and the material. Each subsequent panel is first put on a locking connection (up to a click) and only then screwed with self-tapping screws. The recommended fastener spacing is 30-40 cm. The process ends with a finishing strip.

When sheathing with siding with a vertical arrangement, installation is carried out from the center, approaching a pre-fixed H-profile. Panels are recommended to be installed simultaneously in both directions, their level is checked every three elements, deviations are unacceptable. Any adjustments are made immediately (this also applies to horizontal finishing). The role of the guides in the lower part during vertical laying is performed by the J-profile or molding, the areas of contact with the roof are closed in any case. On each edge and on top leave a gap of 12 mm and above.

The main difficulties are associated with the design of window openings and ends. The purchase of a special near-window profile helps to avoid problems, but due to the high cost, it is not always available. Much depends on the level of location of the outer glass, if it coincides with the walls for decoration, it is advisable to use standard elements for framing the openings made of plastic, when pressed into the lining, it is better to make slopes and close them with a corner. The window profile is considered universal, it is simply cut and bent in the right places.

Regardless of the direction of the panels, the formation of unnecessary joints should be avoided. In addition to the deterioration of aesthetics, they are a risk area, dust accumulates in these areas and moisture seeps inside. The use of an H-profile to connect individual segments is a prerequisite for technology, but they are just as noticeable as open edges. Ideally, this requirement is taken into account even at the stage of drawing up the layout of the planks (when using metal siding 6 mm long, you can draw up a plan with a minimum of joints), but this execution is expensive, a lot of material goes to waste.

Possible mistakes when doing the work yourself

Violations include:

The absence of technological gaps in the areas of entry into the corner and finish profile. Properly anchored siding should have room to accommodate thermal expansion. For the same reason, it is forbidden to screw in the screws to the stop.
Driving nails into the front.
Stretching the panels at the moment of fixation.
The use of low-quality (non-galvanized) fasteners and nails. When saving on hardware, after a while rusty spots appear in these areas.
Absence of corner strips in the areas of contact with the roof.

Approximate prices for the services of sheathing the gable space and roof eaves are shown in the table:

When ordering a turnkey finish, the minimum price of services is 400 rubles / m 2 (when combined with insulation - from 700). Rates are influenced by:

The material and condition of the walls on the gable section.
Project complexity: shape, number of window openings, layout of the siding profile.
The type of cladding, when working with galvanized metal varieties, the cost increases by 50 rubles / m 2, both because of the high cost of the panels, and because of the difficulties in cutting them.
The need for insulation, the thickness of this layer.
Remoteness of the object.
The height of the structure, the need for a scaffolding system.
The professionalism of the people.

When choosing an insulated option, the cost of cladding a house at least doubles, but in the case of facing a pediment of a residential attic or attic, such costs are considered to be recouped. It should be remembered that the proportion of heat loss through the roof reaches 25% of the total value, the insulation of this area is almost always justified. Saving on building materials is unacceptable (poor-quality siding quickly burns out, the presence of a weak crate leads to distortion), the only option to reduce costs is to do the work on your own.

An integral element of a house with a pitched roof is the pediment. It performs not only the functions of enclosing structures, but also serves as a decoration of the house and part of its facade. Therefore, it is so important to correctly complete the sheathing of the pediment so that it is warm in the attic or attic floor, and outside the pediment part is in harmony with the entire building and performs aesthetic functions. In our article, we will list the materials that are suitable for the exterior decoration of this part of the structure, and also briefly describe the nuances that you should know before sheathing the gable of the house with siding or doing it in case of using lining and corrugated board.

Features of the gable device

The part of the outer wall of the house, bounded from below by the ceiling of the building, and from above by the planes of the pitched roof, is called the pediment. At the same time, pediments will inevitably appear when arranging a broken, gable or shed roof, as well as a half-hip roof. In the latter case, this constructive part of the building will not have a triangular shape, but a trapezoidal one. When using a sloping roof of the house, the pediment will be polygonal, and in the case of mounting a vaulted roof, the shape of the pediment will be rounded.

Before deciding how to sheathe the pediment of the house with your own hands, it is important to figure out which technological group this design belongs to:

The cheapest option, suitable for doing it yourself, is a pediment built using frame technology. In this case, the insulation is laid between the racks of the frame, and the gable wall itself is sheathed along the frame. This method of arranging a gable is actively used in private construction as the simplest option for arranging a light roof.
You will have to sheathe a solid gable wall if the house is being built from gas blocks, brick, cylindering or timber. This method of arranging the pediment is more complex and requires the performer to have at least basic knowledge in the construction business. In this way, the pediments of buildings that are undergoing major repairs and reconstruction are sheathed. Although this method can be used to sheathe a house built of ordinary brick or cellular concrete, after which it will acquire a beautiful and respectable look.

Important: the pediment can be made from the same material as the walls of the house, or made from a different material. For example, in a brick house there may be a pediment built using frame technology, or in a stone house, rounded beams can be used to make the pediment.

The main functions of the pediment:

Wind protection. Since the pediment is exposed to wind, it must be strong enough and airtight.
This structural part of the building supports the pitched roof. Although the truss structure rests on the walls of the house and the Mauerlat, the pediment additionally supports the slopes. This is especially true for roofs covered with slate or natural tiles.
If there is a residential attic floor under the roof, then the function of preserving heat in the room is assigned to the pediment. In this case, before sheathing the gable of the house, it is important to provide for high-quality wall insulation.
To protect the walls of the house and the under-roof space from moisture, the pediment should be trimmed with moisture-resistant material, which will increase the tightness of the structure.
The sheathing layer on the pediment also performs aesthetic functions. It depends on how you sew the pediment how beautiful the whole house will look.

Sheathing materials

lining;
corrugated board;
vinyl siding.

Clapboard lining

If you want to choose a cheaper material for sheathing, then there is nothing better than lining. This product is suitable for do-it-yourself installation, has a pleasant color (although it can be painted in the desired shade), and also stands out with a beautiful texture of natural wood.

Sheathing the pediment of the house with a board (lining) is carried out on a wooden frame made of timber. Nails and screws are used as fasteners. When installing the lining, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

Since wood is exposed to microorganisms, it needs additional protective treatment with antiseptic compounds.
To protect against burning, the lining and frame are treated with flame retardants.
Any protective composition needs to be re-applied after 1-2 years.
To protect the material from the negative effects of atmospheric moisture, the boards should be painted with a suitable paint and varnish composition.
The lining has a convenient tenon-groove fastening, which greatly simplifies and speeds up installation.
If the pediment is sheathed with an overlap board, you get a beautiful herringbone finish.

Important: without protective coatings, the clapboard finish can last a maximum of 5 years, after which the appearance of the material will deteriorate and it will begin to collapse. With protective treatment, the service life of the lining reaches 20 years, provided that the coating is regularly updated.

siding finish

You should know that in addition to the siding itself, to finish the gable, you will need additional elements, start and finish strips, connecting profiles, an inner and outer corner, a window strip and a J-profile. In addition, it is worth remembering that vinyl siding is not mounted directly on the wall. Between it and the enclosing structure, whether it be a wall or a heater between the racks of the frame, there must be a ventilation gap that will not allow condensate to collect under the finish.

Some of the benefits of siding include:

Impressive service life. This finish can last up to 50 years.
Acceptable price. The most acceptable cost for vinyl siding, metal and asbestos-cement options will be a little more expensive.
Large selection of colors, textures and design options. Thanks to this, you can easily choose the finishes for the overall style and color of the house.
High moisture resistance. The material is not afraid of precipitation. It can even be washed if necessary.
Finishing is not subject to damage by microorganisms and insects.
This material is easy to maintain, since it does not need any impregnation, painting. To refresh the facade, it is enough to wash it with water from a hose.

Attention: since vinyl panels are subject to thermal expansion, it is very important to properly install the product. To do this, it is necessary to leave gaps for the deformation expansion of the material and not fasten the self-tapping screws too tightly.

Sheathing with corrugated board

Among the advantages of this material it is worth listing the following:

Significant dimensions of one sheet and low weight significantly speed up and simplify the installation process.
The coating is not afraid of moisture, resistant to corrosion, damage by microorganisms, fading. The material is resistant to mechanical stress and temperature extremes.
At a price, corrugated board will cost less than siding.
On sale you can find products with different profile configurations and different colors of the polymer coating, so you can easily choose the option that suits your home.
During installation, a minimum of scraps is obtained, which is an additional savings point.
Installation of corrugated board is so simple that even a beginner can cope with this task.

Tip: for finishing the walls of the house and its gable part, it is better to use corrugated board with a sheet thickness of at least 1.5 mm. Thinner products are easier to bend and deform during installation.

Facing the pediment is a fairly important stage in the construction of the roof, for this there are a large number of materials. IN Lately siding has gained popularity, it is this material that is used for sheathing the gables of residential buildings. Exceptional practicality at a fairly low cost, a pleasant appearance and durability, the ability to withstand ultraviolet radiation and time - all this just makes the consumer opt for this new material.

Types of siding

Siding manufacturing technology involves the division into the following types:

Vinyl.
Wooden.
Cement.
Metal.

Vinyl roof siding

Panels of this type are the most popular. Roof gable siding can be installed horizontally or vertically.

The first option is used for work in residential buildings, the second - in non-residential premises. And this may be industrial building, trade pavilion or cafe.

Positive and negative characteristics

Before you sheathe the attic with siding, you should carefully study its positive and negative characteristics.

Among the advantages that make vinyl siding so popular, the following qualities deserve attention:

Resistance to fading and deformation for half a century.
Preservation performance characteristics at temperatures from -50 to +50 degrees.
Resistant to rot and corrosion.
Compliance with environmental requirements, the absence of toxic and combustible substances in the composition.
Free air circulation due to the presence of perforations on the panels.
Easy installation.
Resistant to high humidity and UV rays.
Wide choice of colors and shades.
Relatively low material cost and installation work.

Among the negative characteristics, the following can be distinguished:

The formation of dents and damage as a result of strong mechanical impact.
The ability to sustain combustion.
Mandatory presence of gaps between the elements of the siding, otherwise temperature changes will lead to swelling of the slats.

It is worth noting that all of the listed shortcomings are not critical and can be eliminated subject to the rules of installation and operation. Therefore, vinyl siding is considered the most profitable option for finishing the gable.

Elements of siding

Before performing the sheathing of the gable with siding, it is important to learn about its main constituent elements.

The complete set is as follows:

Face plate. This element may have different shape and imitate different Decoration Materials. The most common are herringbone, scales, logs, timber, ship boards and solid lining.
The starting profile is the initial element of the siding, as it serves to fix the bottom row of panels.
J-profile closes the panels from the sides.
The H-profile helps to connect ordinary panels along the length.
Window and door slats are needed to frame the corresponding openings.
The outer corners hide the end edges of the panels.
Internal corners are necessary for the design of perpendicularly joined walls.
The finishing profile closes the last plank in height.
Cornices and gable overhangs are sewn up with spotlights, which are presented in the form of special perforated panels.
In addition, various decorative overlays and moldings can be used.

When deciding how to close the gable of the roof with siding, it is important to choose panels and components from the same manufacturer. This will help to avoid problems when performing installation work, since the dimensions of components from different manufacturers may have significant differences.

Gable siding rules

Installation of vinyl siding is carried out taking into account the coefficient of thermal expansion. Therefore, the panels must be fixed so that when heated or frozen, they can move freely. In other words, during summer expansion, the panel should not rest against any obstacle, and during compression from a decrease in temperature, nothing should hold this element. Otherwise, the siding can swell in summer and simply burst in winter.

For free linear movement on the mounting flanges of the panels there are oval holes. When making fasteners, it is very important to install a nail or self-tapping screw exactly in the center of the hole so that the panel can move within the fastening groove during compression and expansion.

Also, do not apply force when screwing the fastener, so that thermal expansion does not cause deformation or damage to the panel. A strongly tightened self-tapping screw can be loosened by unscrewing it by half a turn, and it is better not to immediately finish off the nails by 1.5 mm.

The panels fixed in the lock should not be tightly attached to the crate, they should be in a free state.

For the correct position of the fastener, you can use gratings, the width of which is 6 cm. If a narrower grating is used, then the fasteners can be offset from the center of the hole. In this case, the holes are expanded with a drill or a cutter.

Under normal conditions, the gratings are installed in increments of 40 cm, therefore, the distance between the fasteners will correspond to this value. In areas where strong winds prevail, the distance between the bars should be no more than 20 cm, and a vinyl washer should be installed under the head of the fastener.

At vertical mounting siding ordinary panels and additional elements are attached according to a different scheme. The first panel is fixed with a fastener located at the top of the flange hole, other fastening methods are not suitable for this. The remaining fasteners are also located in the center of the holes.

Abutting vertical and horizontal panels must be fixed with a mandatory gap of 6 mm. However, this value is conditional and can be used at air temperatures not lower than 15 and not higher than 25 degrees. Therefore, for winter installation, the gap should be increased, and in summer time it can be made smaller than 6 mm.

Necessary tools and preparation for work

The task of how to hem a roof gable with siding is solved using the following tools:

Scissors for cutting metal.
Drill and screwdriver.
Hammer and pliers.
Plumb and building level.
Roulette, square.
Self-tapping screws and nails.

Attic sheathing with siding is performed on scaffolding, so you should first deal with their construction. In addition, lamps, platbands and other protruding elements are removed from the sheathed surface.

As a crate, you can use boards or wooden bars, the main thing is that the moisture content of the material does not exceed 12-15%. Otherwise, drying of the material will lead to deformation of the siding panels. Before installation, wooden elements must be treated with a fire retardant and an antimicrobial agent.

In addition to wood, aluminum profiles are used for framing, the dimensions of which are selected individually for each case. The fastening of the elements of the crate is carried out in increments of 20-40 cm.

Phased installation of siding elements on the gable

The beginning of the installation is the installation of the starting bar, while it is very important to check the horizontal position. Even slight deviations can cause uneven positioning of ordinary panels, so you should carefully consider this stage. If you plan to install several starting bars, then there must be a gap of about 1 cm between them.

The next step is to install the J-profile or inner corners. If necessary, these elements are also built up, making an overlap of 2.5 cm, and leaving a gap of about 1 cm between the mounting flanges.

To join the corner strips with a knife, they cut the upper and lower edges at a certain angle.

It is recommended to start the direct installation of ordinary planks from the back of the facade in order to gain the necessary experience in this type of installation work.

Docking of ordinary panels is carried out with the help of an H-profile or with an overlap. In the latter case, the fastening and locking parts must be cut so that the overlapping of the planks on each other is 2.5 cm.

In order for the bar to easily fit into the receiving profile, it is necessary to cut its edges slightly with a knife. The top panel of the siding is fastened with a galvanized stainless nail.

The final step is most often the installation of spotlights. Fastening and installation of these elements is carried out by analogy with siding panels.

It is possible to obtain reliable protection of the pediment from negative atmospheric phenomena and extend its service life only with the correct installation of the siding, taking into account temperature expansions and with the correct selection and installation of components.

Any owner of a private house sooner or later begins to think about the need for external decoration of the pediment. As practice shows, siding is best suited for this. It is quite easy to install, so even a non-specialist can handle it, guarantees the aesthetic appearance of the house, and also provides additional protection from moisture. In this article, we will talk about how to fix the siding to the front of the house.

Before proceeding with the choice of material for cladding the pediment, you need to understand what functions this element of the facade performs and why it is built? The pediment is the part of the house located between the slopes of the roof. Depending on the purpose of the under-roof space, the methods of building gables differ. So, if it is non-residential, then the height of the pediment can reach no more than 1 m. If you plan to make an attic, then its height will vary from 2 m and above. You also need to choose a finishing method from the purpose of the attic - whether it will be a separate room or a continuation of the walls. In the first case, laying heat and waterproofing is necessary.

fronton requirements:

Protection of the under-roof space from wind, precipitation and cold.
Ensuring the rigidity and strength of the roof.
Aesthetics.

Based on these requirements, many choose siding for finishing the pediment, since it is resistant to precipitation, does not fade in direct sunlight and provides an attractive appearance of the building.

To sew up the gable with siding, there is no need to carry out large-scale preparatory work. For this purpose, you can use both ordinary vinyl siding and basement, characterized by increased strength. A large selection of colors and textures allows you to realize any design idea and make the facade beautiful and original. You can install siding on absolutely any surface: brick, concrete, wood, stone. It is one of the cheapest, fastest and simple ways exterior decoration of the walls of the house.

Preparatory moments

Before installing the siding on the gable, the latter must be cleaned of the old top coat, remove dirt and dust. If the pediment is made of wood, the boards must be treated with an antiseptic and a deep penetration hydrophobic primer. The surface must be properly dried and leveled as far as possible. The allowable difference in height can be no more than 10 mm. Otherwise, the siding will quickly deform.

Mounting on a crate

If leveling the surface is too expensive or takes a lot of time, the siding is mounted on the crate. For example, in buildings of the old type, the outer surfaces of the walls are not even, therefore, in this case, the material should be attached only to the frame. This method has its advantages - the crate not only guarantees the correct and quality installation, but also allows additional wall insulation. Therefore, even if you are the happy owner of a house with perfectly even walls, but you plan to make a residential attic, it is better to make a frame and lay insulation under it.

The crate can be made of wood or metal. A metal frame is preferable for obvious reasons. It is not subject to rotting, more durable and durable. However, its cost can confuse economical owners, so many people prefer to build a wooden crate from unnecessary lumber or cheap softwood. But if opportunities allow, it is better to mount the frame from galvanized aluminum profiles. By the way, the same rack profiles are used to work with drywall. Products are much lighter than wood, so they do not carry a significant load on the foundation or walls of the house.

To fix the guide profiles to the gable, use only galvanized hangers. Install racks in 50-60 cm increments. Since metal carcass stronger than wood, the step can be increased.

After installing the frame for insulating the attic or attic, it is necessary to lay waterproofing and insulation. Ideally, you must first cover the surface of the wall with a vapor barrier film, then with insulation, and then close everything with waterproofing. To insulate the pediment, the most common and cheap materials are suitable, for example, mineral wool or polystyrene boards. As a waterproofing, you can use a building dense film with a thickness of 200 microns.

Calculation of materials and fittings

Before you go to the store for siding, you need to calculate how much it will take for the gable. In addition to the material itself, you will need mounting hardware, which is best purchased from the same manufacturer. For the most accurate calculation, it is necessary to draw up a drawing of the building in a convenient scale.

What accessories will be required to install the siding on the gable:

mounting strips;
J-profiles;
connecting H-profiles (it is not recommended to overlap them so that litter and water do not penetrate into the joints);
window profiles (if there are windows in the gable);
finish profiles.

You can attach the siding from the outside only with galvanized fasteners. Any others will quickly begin to rust and reduce all your efforts to zero.

Siding installation

As we have already said, despite the evenness of the walls, it is better to mount the siding on the crate. If the panels are installed horizontally, the batten elements must be fixed vertically, and vice versa. By the way, vertically located siding looks more familiar and visually makes the house taller. The installation step of the lathing slats is 30-40 cm.

Installation of starting J-profiles

If this is your first time facing a gable with siding, pay special attention to the installation of starting profiles. The subsequent work and the final result depend on the correctness of their installation. Take as much time as you need for this step.

Working process:

Arm yourself with a building level and find the lowest point on the frame. Step back from it up 5 cm and mark this place by screwing a self-tapping screw into it shallowly.
Moving along the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment, mark with self-tapping screws the points of attachment of the starting profiles. Pull the rope between the first and last fasteners and mark the border of the corner profiles on the laths of the crate. To do this, attach it to the corners of the frame and mark with a pencil.
As you move along the rope, maintain a 6 mm horizontal clearance from the corner profiles and attach the J-profiles to the frame. When installing, keep in mind that a gap of 10-12 mm must be left between the elements so that they do not come into contact with each other during temperature changes. Also, the distance must be left between the nail strips and profiles.
If you want, you can not make a distance of 6 mm, but simply shorten the nail strips so that during temperature fluctuations they do not reach the starting profile.

When mounting the starting profiles, constantly check their horizontalness with a building level! If the horizontal is broken, the siding will warp, and it will be very difficult to fix it.

External corner profiles

Before attaching the corner profiles, install or mark out the soffits so you can clearly see where their edges will run.

Working process:

Attach the profile to the corner of the frame in such a way as to leave about 3 mm between the roof or soffit. Fix the profile by screwing in a self-tapping screw in the upper part of the hole intended for this on both sides.
While the top end of the profile is 3mm from the soffit, its bottom edge should be 6mm lower than the starting element.
Make sure that strict verticality is observed, then fix the bottom part, and then screw in the remaining screws. In the corner profile, it is better to install fasteners not too often.
If the height of the pediment exceeds 3 m, and the length of the profile is not enough, then you will have to impose 2 profiles on top of each other. To do this, trim the top one so that there is a 9mm gap between the fasteners and a 25mm overlap. Places for building up profiles must be made at the same height for all rows.
Instead of a corner profile, you can use a couple of J-profiles, which will help save on work. However, this solution has a drawback - the waterproofing of the corner will not be so good, so it is better to glue the wall under the profiles with a waterproofing material.

Panel installation

So, when all the preparatory mounting elements are fixed, you can actually proceed to sheathing the gable with siding with your own hands. You need to put the first panel as carefully as the starting profiles, since the final result depends on it. It is best to start work from the most inconspicuous part of the pediment in order to practice and correct possible shortcomings in time.

How to sheathe a gable with siding:

Insert the panel into the keyholes of the start and corner profile. When doing this, do not forget that you need to leave a distance of 6 mm to the bottom of the lock of the corner element. As a result of temperature changes outside, the physical characteristics of the siding can change. So, in a cold winter, a solid panel can increase by as much as 18 mm. These gaps do not allow material movements to provoke the creation of waves and deformations of the surface. Once you've inserted the panel into the locks, attach it to the batten, but don't overtighten it. The shorter the panel length, the less changes it undergoes as a result of temperature fluctuations.
During installation, constantly check the levelness of the sheathed area every 3 rows.
If there is a window in the pediment, then when you reach the opening, measure and remove the excess part of the panel that falls into this opening. In this case, also take into account the double technological indent of 6 mm (6 mm on each side of the opening).
To securely fasten the panels, experts recommend using a special tool - a punch. Insert another finishing element into the lower trim of the opening, which will allow you to align the siding masonry in the plane as much as possible, since the depth of trimming of the elements directly depends on the height of the opening.
At the end of the installation under the roof, a finishing or J-profile must be attached. This work can be done at the beginning, before installing the starting bar.
Measure the distances at different locations between the key holes of the penultimate panel and the bottom of the lock of the finishing profile. Subtract 1-2 mm from this value (technological indent).
Then make a markup on a solid panel and cut off the top part on which the lock is located.
Using a punch, make "hooks" and bend to outside on top of the siding. Do "hooks" in increments of 20 cm.
Insert the shortened panel into the penultimate and

To avoid delaying the installation process, it is advisable to prepare the necessary materials in advance. To work you will need the following:

Siding. At the moment, there are many types on sale, but vinyl and metal are the most preferred. The first option is lightweight and has excellent qualities, while the second requires a reliable foundation, but is distinguished by decorative durability.
Framing details. The frame can be created from a wooden beam with a section of 50 * 40 or metal profiles mounted on suspensions. An alternative may be a special suspension system for siding, but it requires financial costs and fitting parts.
Thermal insulation material. Its use is not always necessary: for example, if the attic is non-residential. Laying insulation makes it possible to increase the energy efficiency of the house in regions with harsh winters, but subject to the insulation of the surface of the roof slabs.
Complementary elements. Depending on the technology chosen, you will need a starting rail, a J-profile, an inner corner, a soffit, a near-window bar (if there is a window with a slope) and a casing (an opening without a recess).
Steam and waterproofing. Protection from water is required for any work, and vapor barrier - when covering a living space with heating.
Fasteners: screws, nails.

Separately, material for scaffolding should be provided. Alternatively, other options may be used to allow work at height to be carried out without risk.

Siding calculation

Classic gable roof

Due to the fact that such a roof has the shape of a triangle, the formula is used to determine its area: ½ * (a * h).

Calculation guide:

The base of the pediment is measured (a).
From the top of the roof, the distance to the base (h) is measured.
Separately, the area of \u200b\u200bthe window, if any, is calculated. To do this, multiply the length by the width.
The area of one sheathing panel is indicated by the manufacturer on the label.

Scheme 1. Calculation of the size of the pediment gable roof(conditionally)

Approximate calculation:

The base is 7 m, the height from the arch to the bottom is 3.5 m.

The chosen type of metal siding is ship timber, the area of one part is 0.85 m 2 (length - 366 cm, width - 23.2 cm).

½ * (7 * 3.5) \u003d 12.25 m 2. ½ is 0.5, so instead of multiplying, you can divide by 2.

If there is a window, its area is subtracted from the total.

12.25/0.85 = 14.4. The result is rounded up to 15, which means the required number of panels.

On a note! It is recommended to add 1-2 parts to the resulting number of panels for trimming or possible errors.

Roof with a variable angle of inclination (broken)

This design has a more complex configuration, so the order of calculation total area begins with measuring the entire surface and drawing up a diagram. To quickly calculate the amount of material, the pediment is divided into geometric shapes.

Scheme 2. Division of the pediment into figures (conditionally)

After the breakdown, 4 figures are obtained: B - a rectangle, A, B1 and B2 - triangles.

The required dimensions are determined:

The total base of the pediment is 12 m.
The height from the roof or ridge to the base is 4.5 m.
The base of triangles B1 and B2 is 1.5 meters; height - 2 m.
From the total size (12 m), 1.5 * 2 is subtracted, it turns out 9 m - the length (c1) of the figure C. The width (c2) is identical to the height of the figures B1 and B2 (2 m).
The length (b1) of rectangle B determines the size of the base (a1) for triangle A and is 9 m, the height (a2) is 2.5 m.

The area calculation is performed as follows:

Triangle A: ½ * (9 * 2.5) \u003d 11.25 m 2.
B1 and B2: ½ * (1.5 * 2) = 1.5 m 2.
Rectangle B: 9 * 2 \u003d 18 m 2 (length * width).
Total area: 18 + 1.5 + 1.5 + 11.25 \u003d 32.25 m 2.

If there is a window, its size is subtracted. The door can also be sheathed separately with siding or highlighted with other material.

For example, a panel has an area of 0.85 m 2, then 33 / 0.85 \u003d 39 (38.8) pieces. + stock 1-2 parts.

Such a calculation allows you to determine how many ordinary elements are required to sheathe a complex gable of a country or private house.

Trapezoidal shape

Scheme 3. Division of a trapezoidal pediment into figures (conditionally)

Measurements are taken and transferred to the diagram. For example:

common base - 12 m, height from it to the top of the roof - 2.8 m;
rectangle B: length - 8 m, width - 2.8 m;
triangles A and A1: height - 2.8 m, base - 2 m.

The area is determined:

rectangle B: 8 * 2.8 \u003d 22.4 m 2;
triangles A and A1: 2 * 2.8 \u003d 5.6 m 2, two figures: 5.6 + 5.6 \u003d 11.2 m 2;
total: 22.4 + 11.2 \u003d 33.6 m 2, rounded up to 34 m 2.

If there is a window or door opening, its size is deducted.

34 / 0.85 (panel area) \u003d 40. Thus, in order to finish the pediment, you will need 40 parts with a small margin.

Siding is better to choose and purchase after measurements to determine the most suitable.

On a note! The pediment overhang (cornice) is measured separately for calculation the right amount soffit and profiles.

How to sheathe the gable of the house with siding with your own hands

To do it right Finishing work, it is necessary to divide the process into stages.

Instruments

After making calculations and acquiring material, you should prepare the necessary tool:

Siding trimmer. The best option is a grinder, for small work an electric jigsaw or metal shears can be used.
Drill and screwdriver.
Hammer, mallet.
Level.
Ruler and tape measure.
Square.
Construction knife.

Other tools may also be needed, including cleaning the base.

Preparatory work

High-quality finishing implies responsible preparation:

If necessary, the old coating is removed. The base is cleaned of dirt, dust and everything superfluous.
The state of the surface is assessed. Due to the fact that such a design is often made of wood, defects may be present. All of them are eliminated, damaged areas are replaced with new ones.
The base is treated with antiseptics and flame retardants and dried well.
If the attic is residential, then a vapor barrier can be additionally laid. It needs to be screwed on.

All work is carried out in good weather.

Sheathing and insulation

It is not difficult to make a frame with your own hands, the process is almost the same as with the facade. When performing general work, it is advisable to make an interconnected crate if there is no ebb overhang.

Photo of the device of a wooden crate for siding:

Installation of an interconnected cladding of the facade and gable

Should know! The frame on the pediment made of wood is created from a bar. The material is pre-treated with agents to increase fire resistance and protection against fungus and mold.

Algorithm for the device of a wooden crate:

In the absence of insulation, the filing of a moisture-proof membrane is mandatory before installing the frame.

Installation of a metal profile crate is shown in the video below.

Installation of siding and accessories

To finish the gable from the siding quickly and without errors, it is advisable to perform the work with an assistant. Step-by-step instruction includes several successive steps.

Fasteners of the initial elements

Work order:

Installation of the upper parts of additional products. Several parts can be used for this purpose, the most common is the fastening of a corner strip or J-profile on the inside of the roof slope. Due to the fact that the pediment has a different geometry, for correct docking all nodal elements are cut at the desired angle.
After marking and pulling the cord along the bottom, the initial bar is set. It is cut at the corners, taking into account the width of the previously mounted elements and a gap of 5 mm. The part is fixed precisely in level through the longitudinal mounting holes. Self-tapping screws are screwed in evenly, with a gap of 1 mm. Docking of two starting elements is carried out with a gap of 5–6 mm.

Installation and docking of the initial siding elements

Attention! To achieve a better result and avoid the appearance of waves, the fasteners begin to be screwed in or driven in from the center to the edges.

Sheathing of window openings

Windows should be sheathed depending on the depth of the slope, most often, taking into account the created frame, the distance to the frame is more than 10 cm.

Action algorithm:

On the inside, it is required to fix the finishing profile: it is cut at an angle and joined.
The window trim is trimmed. It is adjusted to the width of the slope and docking bends are made at the edges to eliminate the appearance of cracks.
The window trim is fixed along the outer perimeter to the racks of the crate. The edge starts behind the laid profile.

If the depth of the slopes is insignificant, then a wide platband is installed, framing the opening.

Working with ordinary panels

To close the gable with siding, you must do the following:

In the presence of an equidirectional bevel of the roof, a template for cutting parts is immediately made. If the structure has a complex geometry, then several such forms will be required (for each section). Difficult places are adjusted individually.
The lack of panel length suggests the installation of docking strips. The situation can be simplified: if the window opening is more than 1.5 meters, then the profiles are set along the edges of the window. In this case, at least 3 segments of the surface division are obtained.
Panels are mounted traditionally. The first part is wound up behind the profile located along the slope, and the connecting element, and lowers to the starting bar. Then it rises to the connection of the castle part with a small gap.
Further sewing is performed in a similar way, taking into account the trimming of the edges.
The last element - a small corner - is attached directly through in advance drilled hole and then sealed.

Be sure to check the level, and leave a compensation gap.

Completion

At the last stage, it is required to hem the roof overhang:

If an internal corner was previously installed, then a J-profile is mounted on the outer part of the overhang. But for complete closure (with sufficient thickness), a J-chamfer (windboard) is set instead of this element. With a small thickness, it is replaced with a simple overhead corner.
A trimmed soffit is placed in the resulting space. Details are attached in the same way as siding.
If the roof has a complex geometry, then connecting strips are set at the corner nodes.
After the process is completed, the reliability of all parts is checked.

When performing work according to the rules, it will not be difficult to veneer the surface of the pediment, and the resulting sheathing will last for many years.