Do-it-yourself sewer well: tips and tricks. Building a sewer well with your own hands Is it possible to make a sewer well

A do-it-yourself sewerage well is an important element in arranging a private or country house, especially if it is located near the security zone. For the construction of such structures, there are norms that must be observed. In general, the manufacture of sewer wells various designs and for various purposes does not cause any particular difficulties, and the well can be made by hand, which will significantly save money.

When building your own sewer system in a country house or in a private house, wells play an important role. With the correct organization of such a system, a special scheme will be required, providing for several different well structures.

The main types of sewer wells are:

viewing (control) type: placed on straight sections to monitor the state of the system;
rotary type: it is formed at the bend of the pipe to be able to clean such an elbow in case of blockages, since the turns are quite a dangerous area in terms of debris accumulation;
nodal view: to control the joints and wiring of the sewer system;
differential view: installed as needed with significant elevation changes along the route;
storage and filtration wells: the final element of the sewer pipeline for the accumulation of runoff and wastewater treatment before being discharged into the soil.

In their shape, wells can be rectangular (square) or round. A do-it-yourself sewer well can be made of reinforced concrete, plastic, brick, wood or other improvised materials. Structures made of reinforced concrete well rings are widely used.

Location of wells

The correct location of the wells is determined by the norms of SNIP, which is associated with the sanitary safety of residents. The distance between viewing structures should be no more than 15 m, while the first such pit should be located no closer than 3 m from the house. Filtration and storage structures should be placed away from residential buildings. It is especially important to control the risk of contamination drinking water.

The filtration system must be moved away from the drinking source at a distance of more than 30 m. Figure 1 shows an approximate layout of the well system. All sewerage elements should be located taking into account comfortable living - the absence of fetid odors. When placing them, it is recommended to take into account the wind rose. (Fig. 1. Layout of sewer wells)

The size of the storage capacity is determined by the number of residents and taking into account guests. It is customary to calculate the required volume based on the condition of 0.7-0.8 m³ per 1 person, i.e. for an average family of 3-4 people, a sufficient volume is 2.4-2.5 m³. At the same time, the need to exclude overflow of the well should also be taken into account - the calculated level is placed below the surface level by 0.6-0.8 m. Inspection wells are made of a much smaller volume. Their dimensions are mainly determined by the convenience of sewerage maintenance. The differential type is set if the height difference is more than 0.5 m.

It must be remembered that any wells deeper than 3 m require increased tightness of the near-bottom section, so it is often impractical to make them so deep.

Required tool

When building sewer wells with your own hands, you will need the following tool:

Bulgarian;
perforator;
electric drill;
sledgehammer;
bit;
chisel;
shovel;
Master OK;
putty knife;
hammer;
hacksaw for metal;
hacksaw;
paint brush;
construction level;
roulette;
plumb;
metal ruler.

concrete well

The widespread use of concrete wells is explained by their simple installation and high reliability. They are constructed from reinforced concrete well rings. Greatest Application they find standard rings with a diameter of 1 m and a height of 0.9 m. A finished concrete slab is also installed on top with a hatch closed with a metal cover. Figure 2 shows the construction of such rings. (Fig. 2. Well from concrete rings)

Do-it-yourself reinforced concrete system is made in the following order:

Digging a hole with a depth of 45-55 cm more than the depth of the well and a diameter of about 1.2-1.5 m.
A pillow is laid at the bottom of the pit from a layer of sand and gravel with a thickness of about 25-30 cm.
Poured concrete bottom about 10 cm thick with reinforcement steel wire or rods with a diameter of 6-8 mm. Level controls horizontality.
Installation of concrete rings with sealing of the joint cement mortar. As the rings are installed with outer side they are coated bituminous mastic to provide waterproofing.
At the required height, a hole is punched for the entry of the sewer pipe, and after its entry, the joint is carefully sealed.
Installation of the top concrete slab.
Gap with outside rings are covered with soil with a rammer.

Plastic construction

Modern plastic containers to create various tanks can greatly simplify the manufacture of the sewer system. They are produced in different sizes and shapes. You can choose from vertical or horizontal tanks.

Plastic structures have a number of advantages: high strength, tightness, operating temperature range from minus 55 to plus 80 degrees, ease of installation.

When installing such tanks, lifting equipment is not needed. The design already provides for a sealed entry of the sewer pipe, which simplifies installation.

Installing a plastic container includes only a few operations: digging a pit according to the size of the container, backfilling a cushion of sand and gravel, installing a container, connecting a sewer pipe and filling the external gap with soil with a rammer.

Filtration system

All sewer wells must have the main property - tightness, except for the filtration design. The task of such wells is to purify the wastewater entering it, followed by its discharge into the soil. Filter wells are being built as the final element of the treatment system. This system additionally includes 1 or 2 treatment septic tanks, where chemical and biological wastewater treatment is carried out.

Only after in-depth cleaning can the sewer pipe be brought to the filtration well. The fact is that this last element works only as a natural filter for mechanical suspensions and impurities. The structure of the filtration well is shown in Fig.3. Fig.3. filtration design.

When constructing such a structure, a filter of crushed stone and gravel is created at the bottom of the well shaft. Concreting of the bottom is carried out only under the walls of the rings in the form of a foundation. There must be a hole in the center of the bottom to drain the water. The filter is made in the following order. The pit for the well is dug 100 cm deeper than the height of the well shaft. A layer of sand (no more than 10 cm) is poured at the bottom of the pit and crushed stone and gravel of a large fraction are laid. You can use broken brick and stone.

The thickness of the stone layer is about 1 m. Then it is possible to make a concrete foundation in the form of a ring with a central hole of at least 50 cm. After that, reinforced concrete rings are mounted similarly to the storage structure.

One more condition must be met - the height of the sewer pipe entry must be raised from the bottom (filter) to a height of at least 50 cm. This is important so that the incoming water jet does not erode the filter. Another important nuance: the crushed stone filtration backfill should also be on the outside of the concrete rings. In the lower part of the first ring in the wall, it is recommended to punch additional drainage holes at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other.

The well system is an important and responsible element of your own sewage system in a country or private house. Its construction should be carried out taking into account the requirements of sanitary safety with the provision of reliable tightness.

The owners of private houses most often have to independently equip local treatment facilities on their site. Cheaper and easier to install sewer wells in the form of a conventional cesspool or sealed storage. A well-arranged treatment or collection point will do the job perfectly. Do you agree?

Here you will find out what materials are used in the construction of treatment facilities and storage tanks for independent sewage. We have described in detail the technologies for constructing typical sewer wells. Based on our recommendations, it will be easier for you to decide on the best option in terms of price and effort.

Often, there is simply no centralized sewerage system in the private sector with low-rise buildings. And household waste must be disposed of, not poured onto the ground. For this purpose, an autonomous sewage system is being built, including the inner and outer parts.

The internal sewerage system collects effluents from plumbing fixtures, and its outer part is intended for their disposal or accumulation for the purpose of subsequent pumping out by sewers. The recipient of wastewater on the street is the end point of the export local treatment system.

If there is no general sewerage network in the village, then one cannot do without a cesspool or sewage storage near a private house

Fecal effluents in the sewer well are clarified, resulting in the formation of partially purified water and suspensions. In the case of a cesspool, the first is drained into the ground, and the second is decomposed by microorganisms to a state of biologically safe sludge.

If the option with a storage tank is chosen, then sewage is simply collected in an airtight container, and as it is filled, they are pumped out with the involvement of a sewage machine.

Distance between draining cesspool bottom and layer ground water must be at least a meter, otherwise the purified water will have nowhere to go

Requirements for the arrangement of such facilities

All sewerage must be installed according to a pre-developed plan, which indicates the layout of all elements of the system and the building materials used. Its outer part in the case under consideration consists of a pipe draining from the house and a treatment plant.

The design and installation of sewer wells is regulated in the following regulatory documents:

If you do not comply with the requirements specified in them, then the sewage system after assembly may simply be inoperative.

When choosing a place on the site for a treatment structure, one should not forget about the need to leave free access to it, even a draining cesspool must be cleaned from accumulated sludge from time to time

Structurally sewer well consists of:

necks with a lid or hatch;
shafts in the middle part (working chamber);
bottom (draining or sealed, depending on the option chosen for installation).

Even the same type of elements of this design can vary greatly in size and shape. Much depends on the material of manufacture and design features treatment plant, as well as the volume of the tank.

What can be used to build a sewer well?

A well construction can be made from a variety of building materials.

When choosing the best option must be taken into account:

Climatic conditions of the area (maximum possible and average temperatures, total amounts of rainwater and snow).
Soil characteristics (freezing depth, composition and GWL).
Features of the relief of the site.

If the soils are very heaving, then the sewerage well should be made of the most durable building materials. And for wet soils, you will have to select the most moisture-resistant option.

The most inexpensive and fastest to install is the construction of reinforced concrete rings, however, to install them in an excavated pit, you will need to order a crane

With your own hands, a sewer well can be easily made from:

brick and stone;
monolithic concrete;
reinforced concrete rings;
prefabricated plastic structures
old tires.

The cheapest at self-assembly it will cost either a septic tank assembled from factory or home-made concrete rings.

But in the first case, you will have to tinker with masonry, and in the second, you will need lifting equipment. Lowering heavy concrete products into the pit by hand is not recommended; they can collapse if they are torn off and hit hard.

It will be possible to make only a sewer well with drainage from a brick, it is extremely difficult and expensive to ensure complete tightness of brick walls

The concrete monolithic option will require the arrangement of the formwork and the preparation of the mortar. If the latter is ordered already mixed in a concrete mixer, this will lead to a serious increase in the cost of work.

Structures made of plastic (polyethylene or PVC), fiberglass and polymer sand are quite expensive. But they are durable and extremely easy to install with your own hands. Such products weigh a little, a couple of people are enough for their installation.

A very cheap sewer well will come out of used tires. They cost a penny in a tire shop, or you can collect tires in a landfill for free. But here the same problem as in the case of a brick.

It is extremely problematic to make such a structure airtight, and it is almost impossible to repair it. you can arrange one of them, but the drive is no longer there.

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Choosing the location and volume of the tank

When installing a sewer well, a number of sanitary and building requirements. Failure to do so increases the risk of biological contamination. The situation can be brought to an outbreak of infections, which threatens the owner of the cottage with serious problems.

Installation of a sewer well should be carried out at a distance from:

fruit-bearing trees and beds of 3 m;
foundations of buildings on personal plot at 4–5 m;
roads and underground utilities (gas, water, electricity) 5 m;
wells for drinking water and reservoirs in 30 m.

A slight deviation from these figures is possible only when installing a sealed storage tank or when constructing a cesspool with powerful concrete walls with reliable external waterproofing.

In the case of an absorption well, water that has passed a multilayer filter of sand and gravel should fall into the underlying layers of the soil away from buildings, communications, drinking wells, all types of reservoirs and private pools.

Distances should be observed in order not to change the composition of groundwater for the worse, not to pollute water bodies with insufficient cleaning and not to wash out the underlying base from under building structures and engineering networks.

However, if the well structure for sewerage is removed too far from the house, then the pipeline between them will have to be arranged every 10-15 meters, which will lead to considerable additional expenses. But this will have to be done, otherwise, if the pipe is clogged, you will have to open the soil in order to clean it corny.

So that the foundation of the house does not collapse due to the influence of moisture contained in the soil, in without fail you need to make a drainage system. To save money, it is recommended to build a drainage well for sewage with your own hands or seek help from specialists.

What drainage wells exist?

Drainage wells can be:

rotary;
viewing;
collector;
absorbent.

Features of rotary wells

As a rule, during the operation of the sewer system, pollution occurs, which often accumulate in perforated pipes. To clean them, you will need to install rotary type wells. They are installed at pipe turns, with a pass through one. Thus, access to the inlet and outlet section of the pipe is provided.

Installation of a concrete drainage well

The dimensions of such a structure will depend on whether a person needs access to the inside of the well in order to carry out repair actions. Thus, the approximate diameter of the well should be about one meter, only it will already be considered a viewing well.

Inspection type wells

Drainage viewing structures are made to control the operation of the sewer system. This design is characterized by a large shaft, that is, it must be of sufficient size for easy access by a person who will monitor the condition of the sewer. If necessary, repair and maintenance work will be carried out.

installation of a plastic drainage well

A structure of this type is designed to perform several actions at once, it can also be a rotary one, since it is also installed at the point of convergence of several pipes or at their turning point.

Absorption type wells

These structures can also be called filtering, since they are most often mounted on the territory where there is a need to drain it, while there is no possibility of outputting currents to the general sewer system. In such cases, the depth of the wells will be approximately two meters.

For a device of this design, you must follow a certain technology:

first, a hole of the required size is dug;
a layer of gravel is laid on its bottom and a container is placed inside, it can be a pipe with a diameter of 50 cm;
when this pipe is installed, broken brick, crushed stone, slag or gravel of a medium-sized fraction are poured into it;
around this filled structure, gravel is sprinkled;
thus, a good and high-quality drainage reservoir is obtained. From above it must be covered with geotextile material and a layer of earth laid. As a result of these actions, a structure is obtained, with the help of which the natural drainage of effluents into the ground is carried out.

principle of operation of the absorption drainage well

Collector wells

Such structures can also be called water intakes, since this is the last compartment of a closed drainage system. In this well, water is collected and accumulated, which will later be pumped into a previously prepared recess, ditch or artificial reservoir.

installation and selection of a collector well

Typically, such containers are constructed from ready-made sealed plastic wells, which are equipped with a waterproof bottom.

What materials may be required for a drainage structure?

Like pipes, drainage wells can differ in the material of manufacture and size. Most often, plastic or concrete is used for the production of such structures:

to implement the second option, concrete rings are used, the height and diameter of which may be different. Installation of the structure is carried out in a pre-prepared pit, while the rings are lowered carefully with the help of special equipment. In this case, the main advantage will be the strength and durability of the structure, and the disadvantage is the complexity of installation work;
now plastic analogues are successfully replacing concrete wells, since they are easier and faster to install. Also, the advantages include low cost, low weight and the presence of all the required taps. Plastic drainage wells are not subject to corrosive damage and can successfully serve for at least 50 years. For high-quality and reliable pipe supply use rubber seals that remain sealed for decades. Since the use of a corrugated pipe is envisaged, the device will be securely fixed in the ground due to its stiffeners.

How to build a drainage tank?

Ready-made drainage structures for the construction of a well are distinguished by ease of installation, reliability and good quality. The main disadvantage of finished wells is their high cost, in particular, this applies to products with a diameter of 800-1000 mm. In order to economize cash, you can build such a structure yourself.

construction of a drainage reservoir

For the manufacture of a drainage structure, it is required to acquire corrugated pipes of the appropriate diameter:

for the construction of manholes, a pipe diameter of 340 mm or 460 mm is suitable, this is enough to ensure manual cleaning of the sewer system by means of water pressure from a hose;
to make a storage or filter tank, you will need pipes with a diameter of 575 or 695 mm;
if there is a need to periodically penetrate inside the well for repair and maintenance work, then you need to buy pipes with a diameter of 925 mm.

In addition to plastic corrugated pipes, you also need to buy rubber seals of a suitable diameter, a hatch and plastic for the bottom device.

To save money, you can buy the components separately.

During the assembly and installation of the storage facility, a certain sequence should be observed:

holes are cut in the well for connecting pipes and installing rubber seals;
the bottom of the well is mounted. Experts recommend treating the bottom of the structure with bituminous mastic, so the bottom of the well will be protected from leaks;
using crushed stone and sand, you need to make a base in a drainage ditch, after which it is poured with cement;
on the prepared bottom is installed finished construction. To prevent the risk of leakage of the structure, it is recommended to coat the places where the drainage pipes are connected with bituminous mastic;
the tank is filled with crushed stone and sand, after which the tamping and laying of the base for the hatch device is carried out. The hatch is placed in a pre-prepared cement frame.

The presence of a hatch is a prerequisite, since it is necessary to clean the drainage system. The service life of the structure directly depends on the correct manufacture and installation of the well.

Well construction step by step

When all the materials have already been purchased and prepared, you can proceed with the installation work:

First, the pipe must be cut to length, while taking into account the depth of the drainage well.
It is necessary to cut holes for connecting pipes, retreating 50 cm from the bottom edge of the pipe. Rubber cuffs are inserted into these holes.
The bottom of the well is fixed, while the docking site must be treated with a bitumen-based sealant.
To install the well, you need to prepare a pit in advance, at the bottom of which cement mortar is poured.
The structure can only be installed after the cement has completely hardened, after which drainage pipes are connected to it.
The space formed between the walls of the pit and the structure must be covered with sand and gravel.
A hatch is placed on top of the installed tank.

Features of the installation of plastic wells

As a rule, ready-made plastic structures are not cheap, so you won’t be able to save much. The only thing you can do is buy individual elements required size and diameter. So, you need to prepare:

corrugated pipe of the appropriate diameter;
plastic for bottom device;
rubber seals. For the installation of a storage or filtration well, a pipe with a diameter of 695 or 575 mm is required.

In the process of installing a drainage well with your own hands, it is important to adhere to a certain algorithm:

the corrugated pipe must be cut, taking into account the depth of the well. Next, it is required to make holes in it for connecting perforated pipes, which are connected using rubber seals;
a ditch is dug, on the bottom of which a layer of gravel with sand is laid. After that, the structure is poured with cement mortar and covered with geotextile material;
at the next stage, the bottom is installed, which is connected to the pipe, while the docking place must be treated with bituminous mastic;
now it is possible to bring drainage pipes to the structure, and the joints should also be coated with a sealing compound;
it is imperative to install a pump that will ensure the pumping of the collected water;
the voids formed around the well must be covered with fine-grained gravel;
at the last stage of work, the roof is mounted.

Summing up

A necessary part of the drainage system is the drainage tank. It is installed in order to monitor the operation of the entire system, it is also necessary to carry out repair and preventive measures.

To simplify the installation process of the structure, you can buy ready product, which will be expensive, but if this is not possible, you can build it yourself. For this, plastic pipes or concrete rings of the required diameter are used.

In fact, building a drainage structure is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. It is enough to purchase the necessary set of parts and adhere to a certain algorithm of actions.

An urgent question that torments everyone who wants to live in private country houses without the ability to connect to the central water supply and sanitation, how to do autonomous sewerage. Indeed, without it, it is not possible to fully use such benefits of civilization as a bath, shower, kitchen sink, washing machine and much more. Sewerage in a private house can be equipped different ways, which we will discuss in this article. Choosing the right system for your individual conditions and needs is even more important than putting it into practice.

What can be a sewerage system - a private house with permanent and temporary residence

The option of arranging the drainage system in private homes is selected depending on several conditions:

House with permanent or temporary residence.
How many people permanently live in the house.
What is the daily water consumption per person in the house (depends on the number of water consumers, such as a bathroom, shower, toilet, sink, washbasin, washing machine, etc.)
What is the level of groundwater.
What is the size of the plot, how much space can be used for treatment systems.
What is the structure and type of soil on the site.
Climatic conditions of the area.

More detailed information about the requirements can be found in the relevant sections of SanPin and SNiP.

Conventionally, all sewage systems in a private house can be divided into only two types:

Accumulation systems(cesspool without a bottom, sealed container for drains).
Wastewater treatment facilities(the simplest single-chamber septic tank with soil cleaning, a two-chamber septic tank - overflowing wells with natural cleaning, a two - three-chamber septic tank with a filtration field, a septic tank with a biofilter, a septic tank (aerotank) with a constant air supply).

The most ancient, proven for centuries and even millennia, way of arranging sewage is a cesspool. Some 50-70 years ago there was no alternative to this method at all. But at the same time, people did not use such a large amount of water in private homes as they do today.

The cesspool is a well without a bottom. The walls of the cesspool can be made of brick, concrete rings, concrete or other material. Soil remains at the bottom. When runoff from the house enters the pit, more or less pure water seeps into the soil, being cleansed. Fecal matter and other solid organic waste settle to the bottom, accumulating. Over time, the well is filled with solid waste, then it must be cleaned.

Previously, the walls of the cesspool were not made waterproof, then when filling the pit, they simply dug it in and pulled out a new one in another place.

I would like to note right away that a sewerage device in a private house using a cesspool is possible only if the average daily volume of effluents is less than 1 m3. In this case, soil microorganisms that live in the soil and feed on organic matter have time to process the water that penetrates the soil through the bottom of the pit. If the volume of runoff is more than this norm, the water does not undergo sufficient purification, penetrates into the soil and pollutes groundwater. This is fraught with the fact that wells and other water sources can be contaminated within a radius of 50 m. Adding microorganisms to the cesspool somewhat reduces the unpleasant odor emanating from it, and also speeds up the process of water purification. But still, it's not worth the risk.

Conclusion. A cesspool without a bottom can be built if there are visits to the house 2-3 days a week and do not consume much water. At the same time, the level of groundwater occurrence must be at least 1 m lower than the bottom of the pit, otherwise pollution of the soil and the water source cannot be avoided. Despite the lowest cost of arrangement, the cesspool is not popular in modern country houses and cottages.

Sealed container - storage tank

A sealed container is installed on the site near the house, into which sewage and waste from the whole house flow through pipes. This container can be ready-made, store-bought, and made of plastic, metal, or other material. And it can be mounted independently from concrete rings, the bottom is made of concrete, and the cover is made of metal. The main condition for installing sewerage in a private house of this type is complete tightness. Suitable for sewers corrugated pipes pragma.

When the container is full, it must be emptied. To do this, a sewer machine is called, the call of which costs from 15 to 30 USD. The frequency of emptying the tank, as well as the required volume, depends on the number of drains. For example, if 4 people live permanently in the house, use the bathroom, shower, sink, toilet, washing machine, then the minimum volume of the storage tank should be 8 m3, it will have to be cleaned every 10 - 13 days.

Conclusion. A sealed cesspool is one of the options for how to sewer in a private house if the groundwater level in the area is high. This will completely protect the soil and water sources from possible pollution. The disadvantage of such a sewage system is that you will often have to call a sewage truck. To do this, from the very beginning it is necessary to correctly calculate the installation location of the tank in order to provide convenient access to it. The bottom of the pit or container must not be deeper than 3 m from the soil surface, otherwise the cleaning hose will not reach the bottom. The container lid must be insulated to protect the pipeline from freezing. For such a sewer in a private house, the cost depends on the material of the container. The cheapest option would be to purchase second-hand eurocubes, the most expensive - concrete pouring or brick. In addition, there are monthly cleaning costs.

Single-chamber septic tank - the simplest option for soil cleaning

A single-chamber septic tank is not far from the cesspool, very often it is called that. It is a well, at the bottom of which crushed stone is covered with a layer of at least 30 cm, and coarse-grained sand is covered with the same layer on top. Wastewater flows through pipes into a well, where water, seeping through a layer of sand, gravel, and then soil, is cleaned by 50%. Adding sand and gravel improves the quality of water purification and partially faeces, but does not solve the problem radically.

Conclusion. Sewerage in a private house using a single-chamber septic tank is impossible when permanent residence and large stocks. Only for temporary residences and low level ground water. After some time, crushed stone and sand will need to be completely replaced, as they will silt.

Two-chamber septic tank - overflow settling wells

As one of the economical sewer options that you can install yourself, the arrangement of overflow settling wells and filter wells is universally popular.

This sewerage system in a private house consists of two wells: one with a sealed bottom, the second without a bottom, but with powders, as in the previous method (crushed stone and sand). Wastewater from the house enters the first well, where solid organic waste and feces sink to the bottom, fatty ones float to the surface, and more or less clarified water forms between them. At a height of about 2/3 of the first well, it is connected to the second well by an overflow pipe, located slightly at an angle so that water can flow there unhindered. Partially clarified water enters the second well, where it seeps through a powder of crushed stone, sand and soil, it is cleaned even more and leaves.

The first well is a sump, and the second is a filter well. Over time, a critical mass of feces accumulates in the first well, for the removal of which it is necessary to call a sewage machine. You will have to do this about once every 4 to 6 months. To reduce the unpleasant smell, microorganisms are added to the first well, which decompose the feces.

Overflow sewerage in a private house: photo - example

A two-chamber septic tank can be made independently from concrete rings, concrete or brick, or you can purchase a ready-made (plastic) one from the manufacturer. In the finished two-chamber septic tank, additional cleaning will also take place with the help of special microorganisms.

Conclusion. It is possible to install a sewerage system in a private house from two overflow wells only if the groundwater level, even during a flood, is 1 m lower from the bottom of the second well. Ideal conditions are sandy or sandy soil on the site. After 5 years, crushed stone and sand in the filter well will have to be replaced.

Septic tank with filtration field - biological and soil treatment

We turn to the description of more or less serious cleaning systems that allow you not to worry about environmental pollution.

This type of septic tank is a single tank, divided into 2 - 3 sections or several separate tanks-wells connected by pipes. Most often, having decided to equip just this type of sewage system, a factory-made septic tank is purchased.

In the first tank, wastewater settles, as in the previous method (settlement well). Through the pipe, partially clarified water enters the second tank or section, where anaerobic bacteria decompose organic residues. Even more clarified water enters the filtration fields.

Filtration fields are an area underground where wastewater is treated by soil. Due to the large area (about 30 m2), the water is purified by 80%. The ideal case is if the soil is sandy or sandy, otherwise it will be necessary to equip an artificial filtration field of crushed stone and sand. After passing through the filtration fields, water is collected in pipelines and discharged into drainage ditches or wells. Trees or edible vegetables cannot be planted above the filtration fields, only a flower bed is allowed.

Over time, the fields silt up, and they need to be cleaned, or rather, crushed stone and sand should be replaced. You can imagine how much work will have to be done, and what your site will turn into after that.

Conclusion. Laying a sewer in a private house, assuming the presence of a filtration field, is possible only if the groundwater level is below 2.5 - 3 m. Otherwise, it is quite constructive solution subject to sufficient free space. Also, do not forget that the distance from the filtration fields to water sources and residential buildings should be more than 30 m.

Septic tank with biofilter - natural treatment station

The deep cleaning station allows you to complete the installation of sewage in a private house, even if the groundwater level is very high.

The septic tank is a container divided into 3 - 4 sections. It is better to purchase it from a trusted manufacturer, after consulting with professionals about the required volume and equipment. Of course, the price for such a sewer in a private house is not the lowest, it starts from 1200 USD.

In the first chamber of the septic tank, water is settled, in the second - the decomposition of organic matter by anaerobic microorganisms, the third chamber serves to separate water, since in the fourth chamber organic matter is decomposed with the help of aerobic bacteria, which need a constant supply of air. To do this, a pipe is mounted above the chamber, which rises 50 cm above the ground level. Aerobic bacteria are planted on a filter installed on a pipe leading from the third section to the fourth. In fact, this is the filtering field - only in miniature and concentrated. Due to the small area of water movement and the high concentration of microorganisms, there is a thorough purification of water up to 90 - 95%. Such water can be safely used for technical needs - watering the garden, washing the car and much more. To do this, a pipe is diverted to their fourth section, leading either to a tank for accumulating treated water, or to a drainage ditch or well, where it simply soaks into the ground.

Sewage treatment in a private house - scheme of work:

Conclusion. Septic tank with biofilter - good decision for a private house with permanent residence. Microorganisms can be added to the septic tank by simply pouring them into the toilet. There are no restrictions on the use of such a treatment plant. An undeniable advantage is that it does not require electricity. The only drawback is that sewerage wiring in a private house requires permanent residence, since without the constant presence of sewage, bacteria die. When new strains are introduced, they begin active activity only after two weeks.

Septic tank with forced air supply - artificial cleaning station

An accelerated cleaning station where natural processes occur artificially. The construction of a sewerage system in a private house using an aeration tank will require electricity to be connected to the septic tank to connect the air pump and air distributor.

Such a septic tank consists of three chambers or separate containers interconnected. Water enters the first chamber through sewer pipes, where it settles, and solid waste precipitates. Partially clarified water from the first chamber is pumped into the second.

The second chamber is actually the aeration tank, here water is mixed with activated sludge, which consists of microorganisms and plants. All microorganisms and bacteria of activated sludge are aerobic. It is for their full-fledged life that forced aeration is needed.

Water mixed with sludge enters the third chamber - a sump for deeper cleaning. Then the sludge is pumped back to the aeration tank by a special pump.

Forced air supply provides a fairly quick wastewater treatment, which can then be used for technical needs.

Conclusion. Aerotank is an expensive, but necessary pleasure in some cases. The price starts from 3700 USD. There are no restrictions on the installation of such a sewer. Disadvantages - the need for electricity and permanent residence, otherwise activated sludge bacteria die.

Water supply and sewerage of a private house - general rules

Certain restrictions apply to the location of sewer facilities.

septic tank should be located:

no closer than 5 m from a residential building;
no closer than 20 - 50 m from the water source (well, well, reservoir);
no closer than 10 m from the garden.

House must be removed:

8 m from filter wells;
25 m from the filter fields;
50 m from aeration treatment plants;
300 m from drain wells or stations.

The pipes leading to the septic tank must be insulated so that they do not freeze through in winter. To do this, they are wrapped with heat-insulating material and inserted into asbestos-cement pipes. External sewerage wiring in a private house is carried out with pipes with a diameter of 100 - 110 mm, the slope should be 2 cm by 2 m, i.e. 2 °, in practice they do a little more - 5 - 7 ° (with a margin). But you shouldn’t joke with this matter, since a larger slope will lead to the fact that water will quickly pass through the pipes, and feces will linger and clog them, and a smaller angle of inclination will not ensure that wastewater moves through the pipes at all. It is advisable to lay the pipes in such a way that there are no turns and corners. For internal wiring sewer pipes 50 mm diameter is enough. If the house has more than one floor, and bathtubs, sinks, and a toilet are also installed on the upper floors, then a riser with a diameter of 200 mm is used to drain wastewater down.

If you decide that you can handle the sewerage of a private house with your own hands, be sure to take into account all the restrictions of SanPin and SNiP regarding the location and design of the sewerage system. In order not to spoil relations with neighbors, consider the location of their water sources and other buildings.

The sewerage project of a private house is extremely important; you should not try to do without it. Sewerage is not a system that tolerates approximation. Contact design bureaus or architects, let the professionals create a working draft for you, taking into account all the features of the soil, site, climate and operating conditions. It is better if this project is completed along with the project of the house itself before the start of its construction. This will greatly facilitate installation.

If you are interested in the question of how to make a sewer in a private house at high groundwater levels, then based on all of the above, it can be such options:

Sealed container for accumulation of waste.
Septic tank with biofilter.
Aeration cleaning station (aerotank).

Direct work on the installation of a sewer system in a private house is not so complicated. It is necessary to lay pipes around the house that will collect drains from various sources, connect them to a collector and run through the foundation or under it along the ground to the septic tank. Earthworks can be done independently, or you can hire an excavator. But choosing the right sewerage system and drafting a project is much more important.

Sewerage in a private house: video - example

Is a sewer well built at a tie-in to the city sewer network considered to be my property? Can strangers crash into this well without my consent?

Ludmila

Expert Answer

Hello Ludmila.

The first thing you need to take care of is to make a request to the utility company that serves the city sewer network and find out if the well you built is on the balance sheet of this organization. The fact is that even privately made sewer lines, wells and other infrastructure facilities are recognized as real estate under Part 1 of Art. 130 of the Civil Code, city water utilities and others municipal enterprises often prescribe in contracts their ownership after several years of operation.

Having obtained from the water utility (or another organization that services the main) confirmation of ownership of the sewer branch in question, you have the right to go to court to receive compensation - on your side of Articles 209 and 304 of the Civil Code Russian Federation or force the defendant to dismantle the illegal tie-in in accordance with Article 222 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation.

If during the construction of a private sewer system everything was done according to the law, then you should have technical specifications and technical project with all approvals and an act of inspection and admission of sewerage for further operation. The documentation must also indicate the sewer well, which is located at the point of insertion into the citywide network. In addition, it would be nice if you kept receipts indicating the purchase of materials for its construction or a contract for earthworks and installation, if it was carried out by a contractor. All this will be needed to prove your ownership in court. But even if such documents have not been preserved, do not despair - testimonies will also fit in this case.

The issue you raised is rather controversial and is on the borderline of intersections of several types of legal law. Therefore, it is impossible to exclude the possibility that you will have to defend your rights in the court of appeal, and the lawsuit itself will drag on for many months. Therefore, in such cases, it is still better to negotiate with neighbors and not bring the case to trial.