Download how to make a cellar on the street. How to build a cellar with your own hands: step by step instructions, video review

After the harvest is over, the summer resident faces the problem of where to store their supplies. In an apartment or garage, vegetables will not last long.

Well, if the cottage was bought already with a cellar. But if it is not there, then you will either have to hire a team, or do it yourself. There is nothing difficult in the work, you can handle it yourself. The main thing is to do it in advance, before the harvest comes. Otherwise, later in a hurry, you can make a lot of mistakes.

Types

There are three types of cellars:

• ground;
• buried;
• semi-submerged.

First you need to determine the depth ground water. This is especially true when building a recessed and semi-recessed cellar.

One method requires a fresh egg, a piece of wool and a glass jar. This is a very old technique, which, nevertheless, is quite accurate. It is necessary at the place where it is planned to build a cellar, put a piece of wool on the ground, and an egg on the wool. From above, all this is covered with a cap. The cap is left overnight. You should see the results in the morning.

It is believed that if both the egg and the wool contain dew, then groundwater is very close. Building in such a place is not recommended. If the egg is dry and the dew is only on the wool, then the water is deep enough. And if both the wool and the egg are dry, then the place is just great for building, because there may not be water at all in such a site.

There are several types of soil:

• sandy loam;
• sandy;
• loam;
• clay;
• peat;
• quicksand.

Peat is one of the best views soil for embankment. It prevents spoilage of food, especially when it comes to potatoes and other vegetables.

Quicksand is a very heaving soil that can cause a lot of trouble. It consists of sandy loam, loam or fine sand. Usually, for construction in places with such soil, the soil is replaced by adding sand.

Sandy soil is great for building a foundation. Often such soil is used in order to reduce moisture and heaving.

Storage shed construction

The storehouse is a ground structure, it can be built anywhere, including in the lowlands. Although, of course, it would be just fine to do it in a dry area.

The storehouse does not require deepening, although some designs of this type are made a little deepened. Logs for such a cellar must be processed, for example, with liquid bitumen. The main thing is that the coating protects the wood from moisture and mold. Bottom can be waterproofed, if necessary.

1. First, the base of the storehouse is made.
2. After the base is ready, it is necessary to build the structure itself, which should not be too high. In appearance, it is more like a tent or a hut.
3. Logs for the storehouse are being processed.
4. To make the protection of the cellar, it is necessary to install a crate.
5. It's time to figure out how to waterproof the cellar from above. To do this, it is necessary to lay roofing material on the roof crate. This material will perfectly protect the products.
6. An embankment is made on top of the roof. Peat is used as a material. This best type ground for this purpose.

It is interesting that the storehouse can generally merge with the terrain. After all, it is enough to plant the embankment soil with seeds of grass or other plants so that it becomes overgrown.

How to make ventilation in the cellar of this type? For this, there are special boxes in which ventilation can be regulated using a special mechanism - valves. The size of the storage shed each owner sets his own. Usually they do not exceed 3.5 m on the sides.

Semi-buried

The advantage of a semi-buried cellar is that it is less demanding on the ground than a buried one. To equip it, it is enough to dig a pit about 1 meter deep. In some cases, 70-80 cm is enough.

1. The base is made of concrete or brick. Cinder concrete is less commonly used for such purposes. Slag concrete can be harmful, so it is used only after processing.
2. Much attention should be paid to waterproofing the bottom and walls of the cellar. For this, roofing material, as well as clay and other coating materials, can be used.
3. Semi-buried cellar requires overlap. It is usually made from croaker.

Other types

There are many other varieties, despite the fact that there are three main types. For example, the usual ground cellar may become a little different if you make a bunding on top of it with peat. The same can be said about buried structures.

Under the garage house, it is imperative to conduct soil research so that there are no problems later. However, given the fact that they were most likely already carried out during the construction of the garage, it will not take much time. Even if there were no studies, the owner of the building is still more or less aware of the depth of groundwater.

Particular attention should be paid to the ventilation of the building. Usually it is done using special pipes. These tubes serve as channels. One of them brings in fresh air, and the other one leaves the exhaust air.

Since the cellar under the garage is an underground building, more serious walls and waterproofing will be required here. In some cases, such structures are also made in wet soils. In this case, the walls are made of cement and covered with a thick layer of insulating material. Do not forget that the soil should be “dry” with sand. This will allow you to separate the site from groundwater, at least partially.

By the way, during construction, it is imperative to make drainage systems. Moisture, one way or another, is still present on the plots. It can enter the structure in the form of precipitation, so a moat and drainage system is necessary.

Video: cellar design features

A photo

Schemes

Building a cellar is not as difficult as building a house. However, in order for the products to be stored in it for a long time, it is necessary to create the right microclimate, which is achieved by its design. Consider the types of cellars and the types of materials used, ventilation options, as well as phased construction with photos and videos.

It is not enough to harvest, you need to save it. Vegetables, fruits, home preserves are perfectly stored in the cellar, which maintains optimal temperature and humidity. To do this, there are various constructive and technical techniques that are easy to master. home master to equip in the country all-season refrigerator with zero energy consumption. Construction should be carried out in the summer, in dry weather.

Types of cellars

Cellars differ in the materials used, equipment, area, as well as the level of penetration relative to the conventional zero - the surface of the earth.

Cellars with different levels of depth

It is advisable to choose the level of deepening based on the terrain, groundwater level, soil type and climatic features of the region.

Types of cellars: 1 - recessed; 2 - semi-submerged; 3 - ground

Before starting work, it is desirable to determine the level of groundwater in the country. If there is no well nearby, use the old-fashioned method to see the water level. To find a dry place on the site, a simple method used to be used: in dry summer weather in the evening, a little defatted sheep's wool, a fresh egg were placed on the ground cleared of grass and covered with a jar or pot. Early in the morning they checked - if everything was in the dew - the water is close, the wool is in the dew, and the egg is dry - the water is deep, everything is dry - the water is very deep.

ground cellar

If the groundwater level is very high, then an underground cellar can also be built, but then serious waterproofing and drainage work will have to be done so that it does not turn out that a cellar was built, but a well turned out. Best Design for such a case, especially if the soil is heaving - a ground cellar.

For reliability, it is built on a hill like an ordinary house, and an earth embankment serves as thermal insulation - an embankment that covers all sides of the building with a thick layer, except for the entrance, which is insulated with various materials. Grass is planted over the entire surface of the backfill, which will decorate and keep the roots from sprinkling. It turns out something like a mound with a door.

Above-ground cellar: 1 - drainage cushion made of sand and / or crushed stone; 2 - walls (wood, brick, stone); 3 - earth embankment; 4 - overlap (boards or reinforced concrete slab, roofing material, straw + clay); 5 - waterproofing of walls (bituminous mastic + roofing material); 6 - adobe floor; 7 - flooring

Semi-buried cellar

If groundwater is located deeper than 1 m, a semi-buried cellar can be built. Its design is similar to an elevated structure, but half dug into the ground. The door to the cellar is located below the soil level, so it is advisable to provide for the removal of rain and melt water from the entrance, and to insulate the door itself.

Semi-buried cellar: 1 - flooring from boards, slabs or reinforced concrete slabs; 2 - thermal waterproofing (straw + clay); 3 - clay; 4 - earthen deboning; 5 - roofing material; 6 - walls (lumber, brick, concrete); 7 - bituminous mastic + roofing material (roofing); 8 - castle - oily clay

buried cellar

This design saves the area of ​​the site, but is built only in case of low groundwater or with serious waterproofing and drainage system. Some buildings are simply covered with a heat-insulated hinged lid, but if the cellar area is large enough, it is better to build a cellar over it - a wooden house with a hatch in the floor, which is a heat insulator for an underground structure and can serve as a utility block with a sufficient ceiling height.

Underground cellar with a cellar-hozblok: 1 - insulation; 2 - lime layer; 3 - bituminous waterproofing; 4 - walls

Cellar with a cellar - a low gable roof: 1 - roof; 2 - drainage; 3 - shelves; 4 - storage for vegetables; 5 - adobe floor

Brick cellar-jug: 1 - crushed stone; 2 - sand; 3 - floor film; 4 - concrete; 5 - side film; 6 - sandy soil; 7 - brick wall; bottom cover; 9 - clay. For descent and ascent, a ladder is mounted inside, and a hinged lid covered with iron is mounted above the neck.

Video. Underground cellar-caisson at a high level of groundwater

Materials for building a cellar

Cellars can be made from various materials which are easier to purchase or based on your personal preferences. For clay soils they even arrange small cellars-jugs just in the thickness of the soil, without strengthening the floor and walls in any way.

A few inspirational ideas for materials, entrance and cellar design in the photo review below.

Entrance to a stone cellar, a fortress in Vyborg

Concrete cellar decorated with large boulders

Sandstone cellar

original input

Stone cellar

Ambitious cellar entrance

brick wine cellar

Beautiful, original, complex

Wood and straw. Pirogovo Museum (Kyiv)

Thatched cellar. Country style

Wooden cellar, built taking into account the relief

Construction of a cellar from a bar

Bottle cellar

cellar ventilation device

The most common basement ventilation system is natural, based on the difference in air temperature above the floor and under the ceiling, and equipped with two pipes. One of them works as a supply channel, the other removes air from the room. Outdoors, pipe outlets must be protected from precipitation and debris. If you install a small damper in them, you can adjust the degree of traction. IN winter period the inlet of the cellar is often closed.

For the organization of ventilation, it is convenient to take pipes of large diameter - steel or plastic, sewer, varnished to protect against ultraviolet radiation. The exit of the channels is best done vertically upwards or at an angle of no more than 45 ° to the side. With a larger slope, ventilation becomes less effective. It is also important to properly align the pipes. Below we want to show you an example of an erroneous and correct installation.

Incorrect installation of ventilation pipes

Proper installation of ventilation pipes (diagonal, level)

You can enhance ventilation and make it year-round by simply installing a fan in the chimney.

As a rule, natural, equipped ventilation in the cellar is sufficient. If a large room is being built, with strict requirements for humidity and temperature, for example, a cellar for cheese production or wine storage, forced ventilation can be arranged.

It is important to remember the electrical conductivity of wet ground, lay the electrical wires in insulating tubes and use a 12-14 V fan. The same requirements apply when organizing lighting in the basement, plus the use of special shades.

Stages of building a cellar with your own hands

Let's consider the main stages of building a cellar from cinder blocks and concrete.

The construction of a semi-buried cellar begins with earthworks. They can be done by hand, but if the amount of soil removed is significant, it is better to hire earthmoving equipment.

Along the perimeter of the pit, they dig a trench for the device strip foundation under the walls. The foundation is being prepared: a reinforcing cage is knitted and concrete is poured. Sand and gravel are poured into the place of the future floor, and a layer of oily clay is placed on top. After the concrete in the tape has gained strength (a week in dry weather), they begin to build walls and lay ventilation pipe taller than the grave. The thickness of the masonry when the floor is supported only on the walls is a full brick, when supported on the walls and retaining soil, it can be half a brick. Between the masonry and the walls of the pit, it is immediately necessary to pour and compact the clay previously extracted from the pit.

If it is possible for a crane to enter the site, the easiest way is to make the ceiling from ready-made reinforced concrete slabs. It is possible to make such an overlap in place. To do this, the walls are covered with roofing material from above, and beams (100x150) are mounted on top. Boards are laid on the beams, leaving a square hole for entry, and dense polyethylene is laid on top, the edges of which extend beyond the structure up to 0.5 m.

A reinforcing grate is laid on the film, a ventilation pipe is installed and a restrictive formwork is placed around the hatch. Pour the solution with a thickness of at least 5 cm.

After the concrete has hardened, a lid is mounted on the hatch, and a cover is erected over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe cellar or only above the hatch gable roof using materials of your choice. If the roof is only above the hatch, the rest of the area is covered with soil - they make a bunding. The front wall is decorated, a door is installed, plants are planted or turf is laid.

How to make an earthen cellar with your own hands. It is almost impossible to imagine a private with his adjoining territory without a cellar, since it is here that the owner of the house stores all the harvest and conservation. Not every refrigerator can become a full-fledged replacement for a cellar - it is in this place that a comfortable temperature and the right level of humidity are maintained, which allow vegetables and fruits to remain juicy.

It's great if there is already a cellar or barn under the house. But what if you do not have such a room? It doesn't matter - you can easily build an earthen cellar in the country with your own hands. About what are the features of the building, as well as what installation rules, we will tell in this article.

To date, many options for buildings for the basement are known: cellars, above-ground structures, glaciers and storehouses. These can be buildings that are complex in terms of architecture, and the simplest ones, from improvised material. It is to the simplest structures that an earthen cellar can be attributed.

Note that this design is not suitable for every site - construction is possible only under the following conditions:

Note, that trees should not be planted near the earthen basement, since the walls of the building can be damaged due to their powerful root system.

It is generally accepted that it is in an earthen cellar that it is easy to maintain a pleasant microclimate, which is great for storing potatoes, turnips, carrots and beets. Due to the natural moisture, the vegetables will not wrinkle or dry out, and even in the spring last year's harvest will be healthy and appetizing.

The process of creating an earthen cellar

Where to start

Although the design is considered simple, the question "how to make an earthen cellar?" still does not lose relevance. To do this, it is not necessary to be a professional builder, since even beginners coped with this task. You should start by creating a drawing / sketch, and it should be carried out taking into account the scale, as well as indicate on it all the dimensions of the cellar and its elements.

Here it is important to remember the following important factors:

• The internal dimensions of the building should be indicated.
• There should be a distance between the pit and the cellars - at least 50 cm more. In the future, this gap can be filled with clay, which must be mixed with straw - this will create a side lock that will prevent the walls from getting wet and seeping liquid from the soil into the basement.
• Usually, they try to make the entrance to the earthen basement from the north side in order to minimize the loss of cooled air when the door is opened in summer.
• Be sure to provide for the conduction of electricity to the basement, and in the construction plan, draw the electrical wiring, and take care of the input and connection.
• For such a structure, ventilation is also required. It should also be developed during design.
• Bundling thickness with outside should also be calculated at the planning stage. But the thickness should be selected taking into account the climate in the region, the level of precipitation and the strength of the wind.

You should know that it is best to engage in such construction in the summer, when the groundwater level will be at a minimum and nothing will interfere with the work.

Foundation creation

So, when everything is verified and calculated, and the location is chosen, you can proceed to the construction itself. You should start by digging the base - a pit / pit, which will act as a repository for fruits and vegetables.

For a cellar, you can dig a hole without using special equipment, since it is usually made small in size - about 200 * 200 * 300 cm. You can reduce the height, this is especially true when groundwater lies close to the surface (150 cm).

It is also important to remember that the pit itself needs to be made 50 cm larger than the construction site. When manually digging, you will be able to maintain density and relief, and thanks to this, the walls will not crumble. It will help to protect the surfaces of the basement from collapse and the shape, namely an inverted trapezoid: the distance between the opposite walls should be less at the bottom than at the top.

Now let's think about how to make a floor in an earthen cellar. It varies:

Advice! If in this case the earthen floors get wet, then make all pallets and racks on a hill.

For example, you can assemble wooden lattices, and put boxes and boxes on them.

earthen cellar walls

Important!, foam concrete, cinder block and other materials that are porous in structure are not suitable for cladding, because after some time water will seep through them, which can cause walls to be destroyed.

Roof of the earth cellar

Most of the heat loss goes through the roof and ceiling of the cellar, and for this reason it is important to pay as much attention to this element of the building. The ceiling must be reinforced so that it does not collapse. In bulk basements, wood poles or woven vines are often used for this, but more durable materials, such as planks or stone, can also be used.

But you will have to tinker with the roof, and first insulate it. The structure above the earthen basement should be made gable. Thanks to this, rainwater will drain quickly and will not penetrate into the cellar. Insulation and waterproofing should be laid on the base itself under the roof. By the way, it’s perfect as insulation, and you can insulate the roof with any material that is not afraid of moisture (, / stone wool, glass wool, etc.).

Moisture resistant plywood, metal sheet or OSB should be placed on the roof. The corners on the slopes should be 45 degrees. For the best protection of the basement from freezing, it is advised to cover its roof with a layer of peat (about 25 cm), and then cover it with another insulation (roofing material or film) and cover 12 cm of fertile land.

Useful advice! If you sow low-growing grass like lawn or moss into the ground, then you can provide a roof additional protection from cold and dampness. In addition, greenery will make the roof spectacular and give an unusual, sophisticated antique look.

Ventilation

As in all storage facilities, even in an earthen cellar it must be equipped. If this is not done, then there will be stale air inside, and it will not be possible to store vegetables there, since it is in such conditions that fungus and mold feel best. The rules for creating ventilation in an earthen cellar in the country are as follows:

• Use metal or plastic pipes, whose diameter will be more than 10 cm. You can make ventilation ducts out of wood.
• The supply pipe should be located slightly above the floor level, and go outside no lower than 0.5 m above the ground.
• The hood should be located just under the ceiling, and the outer edge should be raised 150 cm from ground level.
• Both pipes must be covered with a protective cap, which prevents atmospheric moisture from entering inside.

Important the fact that in a small cellar you can install only one supply and exhaust pipe.

Basement interior decoration

In the earthen cellar itself in the country house, everything can be arranged the way its owner wants, since everyone has different needs: someone stores potatoes in it, and someone wants storage for wine. In this case, the storage is usually divided into two zones - the bins on the right, where there are wooden boxes / compartments for apples and other things, and on the left, racks for preservation and wine. The shelves should be 0.5 m apart, but the size may vary depending on the height of the jars.

The material of the shelves is acceptable different - metal, wood. In the first case, the racks should be protected from corrosion by regular staining, and in the second, the wood should be treated in a timely manner with antiseptic agents or coated with oil enamel.

An indispensable attribute is a ladder. It must be safe and durable, and it must also be processed in time so that there is no corrosion or decay.

The final stage is the supply of electricity. Do not forget about the microclimate and safety standards - in such rooms lamps should be installed only with low level voltage!

Conclusion

The earthen cellar is the most The best way creating storage for harvest and conservation. This basement will not only last for many years, but will not require repairs and additional maintenance, since all surfaces will be protected by a layer of earth.

Own cellar will be useful in almost every private household. In the cellar you can store vegetables, preservation and other things. At the same time, such storage will be as convenient and high-quality as possible, because. the cellar is located underground and does not take up useful space in residential premises, and the temperature conditions in the basement ensure the longest possible storage of various food products.

The cellar can be equipped both at the stage of construction of the building, and in a ready-made private building. In the second case, the work is complicated by the fact that you will have to dig a hole for the cellar by hand and take the earth out of the room yourself. Otherwise, the procedure for arranging the cellar for both situations mentioned is practically the same.

The cellar in the underground of the house should be buried at least 150-180 cm. With a smaller depth, the temperature in the basement will exceed +8 degrees, which will not have the best effect on the conditions and shelf life of vegetables.

Before starting work, you need to establish the depth of the passage of groundwater specifically on your site. This is easiest to do at the stage of arranging the foundation of the house, because. geodetic research is included in the list of mandatory preparatory activities.

If the house has already been built, but you just now decided to start arranging your personal cellar, determine the point of passage of groundwater will have to do it yourself.

This can be done according to the following methods:

• dig a hole with a depth of 250 cm and monitor its condition for several days in terms of filling it with water;
• determine the depth of water in wells on adjacent land plots.

You can also contact a specialized well drilling company.

Checking the groundwater level should be done during the spring flood or autumn long rains. It is during these periods that the ground aquifers rise to the maximum level.

If groundwater is closer to the soil surface than 100 cm, you will have to refrain from constructing an underground basement, preferring a remote cellar in some other suitable area.

If the groundwater level is in the range of 100-150 cm, you can try to reduce it using a drainage system laid along the perimeter of the building below the floor of the future basement. In this case, the waterproofing of the basement walls will need to be given special attention.

Ideally, the underground cellar should have a depth of 200-230 cm. With such depth indicators in the underground room, it will be comfortable to go about your business, and the air temperature will be set at about + 4-5 degrees, which is the best indicator for long-term storage of conservation, vegetables, etc.

Before starting the arrangement of the cellar, you need to select suitable building materials. The walls of the room can be built from concrete, natural stone, concrete blocks, ceramic brick. Silicate brick and cinder blocks are best not to use.

Determine best option entrance to the cellar. The simplest option is to arrange a hatch in the field of the room with the installation of a ladder for descending into the cellar. If possible, the descent can be made from full-fledged concrete steps - it's more convenient. An inclined trench for arranging the descent must be provided for even at the stage of digging the foundation pit.

A step-by-step guide to building a cellar

Independent arrangement of the cellar under the house is carried out in several simple steps. Do each one in sequence.

Video - Cellar under the house

The first stage is the definition of dimensions

Start by determining the dimensions of the cellar that are convenient for you. As a rule, the cellar area under the house is at least 5-8 m2. With such dimensions, it will be possible to place racks with preservation in jars, and containers with various root crops. Otherwise, be guided by your requirements.

Make the size of the pit at least 60 cm over size cellars on each side. From this stock, about 30 cm will go to the walls. The rest of the place will be filled with waterproofing material and a clay castle.

Video - Cellar construction

The second stage - earthworks

Start digging a pit. If the house is just being built, use special equipment. In the case of arranging a cellar in an already finished house, you will have to dig manually. To prevent the side walls of the pit from crumbling, strengthen them with temporary supports, for example, from plywood or boards.

Make the depth of the pit such that its bottom is about 30 cm below the bottom of the future cellar under the house.

The third stage is the foundation

Fill the bottom of the pit with gravel of different fractions. Tamp the backfill and lay the reinforcing mesh on it. Pour concrete. Allow 2-5 days for the pot to dry initially. After that, you can start arranging the walls of the future cellar.

Fourth stage - walls

It is better if the walls of the cellar are made of monolithic concrete. To increase the moisture resistance of the filling, it is necessary to add a special mixture to the solution to create a penetrating moisture insulation.

Assemble formwork for pouring concrete walls. To do this, use boards, bars, ties and nails. It is better that the formwork boards are planed - they are easier to dismantle in the future. Make the formwork about 30 cm wide. Lay 2 reinforcing bars along the future walls with a connection at the joints of the walls. Use soft wire to connect the bars.

At the stage of arranging the formwork, provide places for placing ventilation pipes.

Pour the concrete into the formwork. It is best to pre-order ready-made concrete, because. it will take a very long time to prepare the required amount of solution on your own.

After pouring in several places, pierce the concrete with a metal rod to remove excess air from the material. The solution will dry for about a week and it will take another 3-4 weeks to set strength.

Let the walls dry and remove the formwork.

Fifth stage - waterproofing

Proceed to the external waterproofing of the cellar. For this, bituminous mastic is best suited. Apply 3-4 coats of waterproofing material to outside basement walls with a roller, and then stick a layer of roofing material over the mastic. Let the insulation dry and fill the space around the walls with earth or make a clay castle.

If there is a risk of cellar flooding, the clay castle must be made in without fail. Mix clay, clean sand and water until a homogeneous mass resembling plasticine is obtained. Layer-by-layer fill the hole with the resulting mass and carefully tamp.

Inside, both the walls of the cellar and its floor are waterproofed. The floor is best filled with hot bitumen and pasted over with roofing material. To isolate the walls, you can use polymer mastic or penetrating waterproofing. The second option is more preferable.

During the installation of the floor, remember the required 1-2 degree slope of the surface in the direction of the technical pit. Thanks to the slope, the cellar will remain dry even during the rainy season and floods.

Stage six - finishing

At the finishing stage, you have to make a ladder, a manhole cover and ventilation.

If you decide to do with a simple wooden ladder, pre-saturate source materials antiseptic. Place the stairs with a slope that makes it easy for you to go up and down.

The hatch cover must be hinged. Otherwise, at this stage, be guided by your preferences.

Video - Ventilation in the cellar

Insert the ventilation pipes into the holes that you made at the stage of preparing the walls for pouring concrete. The exhaust opening should be located under the ceiling of the cellar above the pit, the inlet should be located almost near the floor in the opposite wall. Bring air ducts outside. On the ventilation holes put on protective grilles (nets).

The procedure for arranging the ceiling depends on whether the cellar is created at the stage of building a house or whether it is equipped in an already finished building. In most cases, the ceiling of the cellar is an ordinary floor slab with a pre-prepared hole for the hatch. The procedure for arranging such an overlap depends, as already noted, on the circumstances under which a cellar is created under the house, so be guided by the conditions of your particular case.

This completes the construction of the cellar under the house with their own hands. Install the planned racks and shelves, and you can start using your own equipped cellar.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself cellar under the house

Basement not: if the latter is necessarily located away from the house, then the basement is under it or in close proximity; most often, the basement as a building structure is also the foundation of the house. The basement is necessarily buried below the standard freezing depth of the soil (NGP); the cellar can also be bulk surface. The basement floor is often located below the groundwater level (GWL). All this makes the basement and the house on it especially sensitive to ground movements and the action of groundwater. Moreover, the basement can exacerbate the influence of both of these factors. All this makes the construction of the basement almost the most difficult and responsible task of the entire cycle of construction work. When built to order on a turnkey basis, a house with a basement costs 30-100% more than the same basementless one. However, the basement in the house provides a lot of conveniences and benefits, and it is quite possible to build a basement with your own hands and save a large amount. Let's try to figure out how.

What does the basement provide?

The traditional use of the basement as food storage is already more useful than cellars: the microclimate in it is more stable, easier to regulate, and it is much more difficult for pests to get into the basement than into the cellar. The basement is also more suitable for a workshop and other utility rooms: it is electrified, gasified and heated along with the house.

The basement in a private house is especially beneficial as a center for the concentration of life support systems (LSS): all equipment can be located safely, compactly and conveniently for current maintenance and repair, on the left in Fig. And that's not all: a boiler or heating stove with a water circuit, transferred in the same house from the boiler room (furnace) upstairs to the basement, it turns out, they begin to consume 3-5% less fuel due to the same stable basement microclimate. The savings for the heating season in material terms are quite tangible.

Another advantage of a house with a basement in our area is still little known, but in the countries of Southern Europe the demand for houses with a residential basement (on the right in the figure) steadily exceeds supply. The point here is survival, but not in case of war or some fantastic cataclysms. There are also enough real ones: due to global warming, the Sahara will “spit” hot air every summer for a long time to come. Surcharges, special or "environmental" tariffs, penalties, etc. requisitions for overexpenditure of electricity in countries that are provided with their own energy resources - mother, do not worry! When it stays + (40-45) in the yard for weeks and months, it is impossible to live normally, and energy bills for air conditioning the whole house come in such that ... think better about democratic values, they are enduring. Moving to a residential basement for the summer either reduces the cost of air conditioning to an acceptable level, or allows you to do without it altogether.

Waterproofing: the beginning

The basement under the house will only be a boon when it is dry and does not violate the stability of the entire structure. Both of these factors are interrelated, because. a house with a basement often begins to tilt and / or settle just as a result of a violation of the underground flow by a rigid box deeply buried in the ground: the natural movement of groundwater is disturbed, see fig.:

As a consequence, the mobility and bearing properties of the soil also change. There are cases when a house with a basement, built on dry dense loam, had to be abandoned - a quicksand crawled under it due to the influence of an improperly built basement.

The ways of penetration of soil moisture into the basement are varied, and 100% effective ways drain the stale basement no. Basement dampness and the whole house will make uncomfortable and unhealthy. But you also need to think about the effect of the basement on the underground runoff. The only way to prevent such a Gordian knot from tying is the correct design of the basement and its reliable external waterproofing. The choice of design is directly related to the properties of the structural material. Therefore, in order to properly build a house with a basement, its development must be carried out in the following sequence:

• Choice of construction material;
• Choice of power circuits in plan and section;
• The choice of method and scheme of waterproofing;
• Determining the composition of the basement arrangement;
• Choice of construction technique.

Note: if the basement gets wet, but the house with it still stands, then there are ways to dry the basement, see below. Such a basement will not be suitable for housing and stationary electrification, drying will have to be repeated every 3-5 years, but it will serve as a food storage and / or a location for non-volatile heating devices.

materials

It is possible to make a basement from materials capable of withstanding a lateral soil pressure of 20 bar (2 kgf / sq. cm or 20 tf / sq. m) and a head of formation water of 10 bar (1 kgf / sq. cm or 10 tf / sq. m) .m). These conditions correspond to the strength grade from M200 and the water resistance grade from W10. Of course, the greater the margin for both parameters, the more reliable the basement will be.

Independent developers usually build basements with reinforced concrete monolithic (pos. 1 in the figure), prefabricated from concrete foundation blocks with a monolithic base (pos. 2), brick (pos. 3), monolithic with a brick plinth (pos. 4) or from cinder blocks, pos. five.

The “brick on concrete” option is durable enough if the basement is made of burnt iron brick or clinker brick: the front outer brick is not designed to carry the weight load from the building; its service life is up to 40 years, and a house with a basement is built for generations. The red working brick in the immediate vicinity of the ground begins to crumble within 25 years, and completely loses its load-bearing properties in 50-60 years. Iron ore and clinker will stand in the plinth of the century, but they are not aesthetic. In general, the basement at pos. 4 is not an option. For beauty, it would be easier, more reliable and cheaper to fill in a monolith and veneer it to taste.

The suitability of certain materials for building a basement is shown in the figure:

As you can see, they can be divided into 3 groups:

1. Unsuitable.
2. Conditionally suitable for structured soils (dense sandy loam, light loam), if the GWL does not rise closer than 0.2 m to the bottom of the basement floor.
3. Suitable.

I group

Unambiguous "losers" - foam and aerated concrete, and their low bearing capacity is not the most important thing here. Let's say the natural wear of concrete is 0.01 mm per year. This is an insignificant amount; in the ground it is much more. The minimum layer of concrete over the reinforcement is 40 mm. In order for the reinforcement to begin to be massively exposed and thus the structure required a major overhaul, in the absence of other destructive factors, 4000 years must pass. We also assume that the bridges between the pores of foam and aerated concrete are thick, 1 mm; they are usually thinner. With the same wear in 25 years, the material will lose 50% of its strength (the lintels are destroyed from 2 sides) - overhaul is impossible, the structure has become unusable. After another 10-15 years, it will begin to spontaneously collapse without the possibility of recovery. For this reason, in Southern Europe (most of all in Spain), thousands of houses, once built for seasonal rental, are now being sold “for how much they will give”. Their appearance is still chic, but their lifespan is ending, and there is no way to restore it.

This also includes silicate brick and expanded clay concrete. The first one in the ground crumbles literally before our eyes, it is expensive and requires quite high skills to work with it. The second one is cheap, it is easier to work with it, but, alas, it gets wet through, and it is impossible to isolate it reliably, there are no such methods and compositions.

II group

From this group, it is better not to use red brick and poor concrete for the foundation under the house: they crumble in the ground and repair is often impossible. Clinker bricks are quite reliable, durable up to 150 years or more, easily insulated, but expensive. Burnt brick-iron ore is a little inferior to it and is cheap, but it does not go on sale regularly, because. is a manufacturing defect. But a cinder block basement, due to its cheapness and ease of working with it, is quite common, see video:

Video: building a “box” of a cinder block basement

An important advantage of the cinder block basement is that it is light and the house with it gives a normal draft on rather weak soils with a bearing capacity of> 0.7 kgf / sq. see It is possible to build a basement from a cinder block not only on dry ground. It can be quite suitable for economic purposes if the soil water is above the level of the basement floor for no more than 6 months. per year, and the formation pressure does not exceed 10 bar; in most cases of self-building, these conditions are met. But, firstly, measures for waterproofing the walls of the basement must begin to be carried out already at the stage of their construction, steadily observing all the rules of cinder block masonry, see the video:

Video: cinder block masonry basics

Secondly, waterproofing must be done the same as for walls made of bricks or foundation blocks, but reinforced: both paint with bituminous compounds, and pasting, see below. And instead of gluing materials on a textile basis, use roofing paper on cellulose (cardboard). Looking ahead, the principle of operation of insulation based on natural bitumen is as follows: if, after many years, the structure isolated by it is dismantled, not a trace of the original insulator is found. Bitumen from it is pressed into concrete, on which a waterproof crust has formed. The pores of the cinder block are much wider than in concrete, and the cellulose fibers from the base of the roofing sheet will become a reinforcing filling for the bitumen in them.

How to isolate cinder block

How the cinder block basement waterproofing is arranged is shown in fig. on right. Since there is no and cannot be any guarantee for the standing level of groundwater, it is better to replace backfilling with soil with a clay castle (highlighted in color) with a removal at the top of 0.5 m beyond the contour of the blind area. Its presence around the house, as well as heels with a removal of 0.4 m under the foundation tape, is an indispensable condition for the reliability of waterproofing a cinder block basement.

Pasting (sheet) insulation in this case is applied in the reverse order to the generally accepted one - from top to bottom. It is more convenient to work this way, using a device in the form of a trestle with a stick or a piece of pipe laid in it, on which a roll of roofing is put on. The tragus is placed on the foundation tape, and then:

1. A section of the wall is painted over to a width of a roll + (15-20) cm with liquid bituminous mastic-prime (primary) on a gasoline thinner. It is better to apply prime mastic with a wide, hard brush, pressing into the wall material;
2. They smear the same area with bituminous mastic on anthracene oil - it is thicker, stickier and dries more slowly than on gasoline. Layer - 3-4 mm;
3. A piece of roofing sheet is wound from the roll to the bottom with a small margin;
4. The insulator is rolled to the coating, going from bottom to top and squeezing out bubbles;
5. The cut is cut with some margin;
6. The tragus is rearranged so that the overlap of the cuts is 20-25 cm;
7. Repeat paragraphs. 1-6 on a new section of the wall with an offset of 15-20 cm beyond the width of the roofing strip;
8. The joint of the sheets is heated gas burner and rolled according to paragraph 4;
9. Repeat paragraphs. 1-8 until they reach the corner;
10. At the corner, they paint over and coat the adjacent wall, the removal of the roofing around the corner is cut across at the top and bottom;
11. The wing of the insulator is not very warm from the outside and softly wrapped around the corner;
12. The wrapping is heated and rolled according to clause 4;
13. Repeat the work cycle until the entire building is bypassed;
14. Apply the 2nd layer of adhesive insulation in a similar way;
15. An external safety layer of paint insulation is applied from the same mastic;
16. They backfill the soil or put a clay castle.

To a beginner, this whole procedure will seem very laborious, but any reliable pressure-proof insulation is no easier to do. But a cinder block basement will cost 1.5-2.5 times cheaper than concrete or brick.

At the same time about the brick

The insulation described above does not provide 100% protection of the brick basement from dampness - the pores of the brick are thinner than the cinder block, and the bitumen is pressed into them poorly. It is better to insulate the walls of a brick basement with modern penetrating materials with a deep penetration effect (see below). Typical scheme their insulation of a brick wall is given in Fig.:

Plastering the wall on the mesh for insulation is mandatory: penetrates reliably fill cracks up to 0.4 mm, and in brick wall may become wider. The role of a clay lock, which does not let capillary moisture into the concrete-brick seam, is played by plugs from Penekrit in a strobe 25x50 mm and Penekrit with Penetron in the holes of the concrete heel. The disadvantage of this scheme is that penetrates are not eternal, like natural bitumen; after 10-30 years, the insulation will have to be replaced.

Repair of a damp concrete basement with deep penetration compounds

Note 2: if a previously dry concrete basement began to dampen with a drop on the walls and floor (the underground drain has changed), it can be repaired with Penekrit with Penetron for 5-20 years, see fig. on right. Shtroba - 25X25 mm. The insulation is plastered with moisture-resistant plaster in 2 layers of 15-20 mm each with a reinforcing mesh (see above) to avoid swelling of the insulating layer by capillary pressure. Work is carried out during the driest time of the year. The basement is pre-dried, see below, and immediately before applying the insulation it is wetted twice with a wide soft brush.

III group

In the materials of group III, high-strength moisture-resistant concrete stands by a wide margin. Only from it can you build a dry basement on watered soil, without doing such a complex and technically not always feasible thing as site drainage. It is enough to apply inexpensive (and very durable) bituminous insulation, see next. fig., and the basement will not dampen the generations of residents, no matter how the groundwater “walks”.

A big minus of the concrete basement is the emergency work on pouring and technical breaks for the monolith to gain strength; building on your own, you can simply not be in time for the season. In addition, concrete M400 W>10 is not cheap, and the concrete truck will not arrive exactly at the time you set. Most likely, it will be assigned to you, and even you will have to wait.

The way out is the construction of a basement from ready-made foundation blocks. 2-3% by volume of liquid glass is added to the water for masonry mortar. It is better to buy ready-made blocks, they are already M (400-600) W (20-3). Block 200x200x400 is turned by one person. The laying is then carried out in 2 blocks with dressing of the seams and alternating spoon rows with bonder rows, like a brick wall. Corner "semi-blocks" are not chipped or cut off - let them stick out half into the ground, the whole structure will only be more stable. If there are 2-3 strong assistants and at least a hoist, it is even better to purchase blocks of 400x400x800 - they are with a tooth and the masonry will be very strong. In this case, it is led into one block with dressing of the seams in rows.

Foundation blocks on reinforced concrete structures undergo steaming, which is not feasible at home. But, let it be known to you that the exposure is from 3 months. blocks that have gained 25% strength in a stack under the film completely replaces it. The rows in the stack must be shifted with pieces of wood so that there are gaps of 20-30 mm between them; in hot, dry weather, the stack is wrapped in damp burlap. And do-it-yourself high-strength concrete can also be prepared by hand kneading, see the plot:

Video: manual concrete production

The construction of a basement, especially in an existing house, can generally be considered the third thing that does not tolerate haste. Then - the first year we are preparing slowly right amount blocks; next summer we are building again without rush work. Blocks can be cast not typical, within one's strength and with a tooth - the finished masonry will withstand a pressure of more than 30 bar. What about W? In production, liquid glass is mixed into the concrete mass in special devices, which, again, cannot be done at home. But self-builders successfully prepare moisture-resistant concrete at W (10-15) with the well-known repair compound Dehydrol, see the video:

Video: how to make hydraulic concrete

Note: self-made hydroconcrete does not guarantee against the penetration of capillary moisture, therefore, external anti-pressure insulation must be supplemented with internal anti-capillary insulation from the same Dehydrol, see fig. Also, inside the entire basement is plastered with armoring insulation made of cement-sand plaster, see above.

Power Circuits

The basement waterproofing scheme is tied to its general power (carrier) scheme. It is also developed, depending on local conditions, first in section and then in plan.

Possible power circuits of makeshift basements in the context are given in the figure:

A basement on a slab is built on weak homogeneous soils: a large bearing area gives a low specific pressure on the soil and distributes the weight load more evenly over it. In fact, the entire building in this case stands on a deeply buried slab foundation. The removal of the slab along the contour is needed no less than the thickness of the basement walls (foundation tape), otherwise weight loads will be concentrated on the edge of the slab, it will crumble over time, and the whole house will sag crookedly. Also, basements on soft soils float more easily, see below; "side hook" counteracts this. The slab is poured with the onset of stable warm weather, withstands up to 50% strength (at least 20 days) and is built on it from any other suitable material. If the seasonal standing of groundwater is possible above 0.6 m above the level of the sole (not the floor!) Of the basement, the slab is poured one and a half thickness (from 300 mm) with a tooth a third of the height, see below.

A basement on a tape is built, on the contrary, on dense, well-bearing (from 1.7 kgf / sq. Cm), and, possibly, heterogeneous soils: a slab from a boulder that fell at an angle to it during precipitation will dangerously tilt; the tape will either push it down or push it to the side. On dense homogeneous non-rocky or slightly heaving soils, if the house has been established without disturbance for at least 3-5 years, it is possible to build a foundation on a tape in an existing house. A typical scheme is given in fig. on the right, but in each case, construction is carried out according to individual project based on field research.

If the basement on the tape is being built at the same time as the house, then the emergency concreting cycles are not tied to each other: the pouring of the permanent floor can and even needs to be (see below) postponed for next year. In any case, the removal of the heel of the tape to the side must be at least 0.6 m in order to "disperse" the load from the force of soil resistance to the settling building (shown in red dotted line), otherwise the floor can simply be squeezed up.

Temporary floor

It is advisable to leave the basement on the tape without a floor for a year, if the groundwater level does not rise above 0.2 m under the basement base, so that the building gives an initial draft and the permanent floor does not exactly kick out. In the meantime, you can lay a temporary floor, like laying floors on the ground.

Schemes for flooring on the ground are given on the left in the figure:

Pos. A is applicable if the soil water does not rise above 0.6 m to the basement basement; pos. B - if they reach 0.2 m below it. In the case when the utility cellar on the tape remains dry for more than 3 years, a warm dirt floor is often laid in it, on the right in rice: this way vegetables and fruits are stored longer and spoil less. Plant products in storage release ethylene, which stimulates their ripening; without ethylene, products "sleep". Ethylene is slightly heavier than air and is not completely removed by normal basement ventilation (see below); there are many cases of ethylene poisoning of people who have been in food cellars for a long time. Ethylene, on the contrary, eagerly absorbs, you just need to make the bins ventilated and on stands from 15-20 cm. In addition, homemade kvass, liqueurs, wine, beer, mead in a basement with a dirt floor ripen better and turn out to be much tastier.

Note: basements on slab and tape are suitable for installation of boiler equipment and electrification for housing only after at least 3 years after the completion of the construction of the entire house, if during this time there were no signs of dampness of the basement and / or uneven settlement of the building.

A basement-caisson made of moisture-resistant concrete with external anti-pressure insulation will be dry on any soil, even if it floats in water - during the Second World War, even sea vessels were built from reinforced concrete. The coffered basement is also compatible with any building, see below. But its construction is a continuous complex emergency job, see below. And on light, loose, heavily watered soils, the basement-caisson can suddenly emerge. Basements on the slab and the tape let you know about the unfavorable underground runoff by dampening in spite of any insulation - the working and masonry seams are torn - and the caisson can literally float up and fall on its side along with the house in just a week. Therefore, caisson basements are not recommended to be built at the highest groundwater level of more than 0.6 m above the basement floor, and the box should be taken out from 0.6 m on medium and dense soils and from 0.8 m on light ones.

The power scheme of the basement in the plan is already linked not only with the ground, but also with the structure of the building. Its possible options for self-building are shown in Fig. below. The basement floor (pos. 1) is the only one that allows you to immediately equip a boiler room and a house communications wiring unit in the basement (on the left in the figure at the beginning); in this case, it is built coffered. The important thing here is that there must be a window in the boiler room, and the walls of the caisson and the basement of the building are a single monolith.

An incomplete basement floor is built less frequently - savings on earthworks are more than eaten up by an excess of concrete. Typical justified cases are heavy, complex and expensive soil to develop (pos. 1a) or a light loose spot is found on heavy soil, suitable in size for a basement, pos. 1b. In this case, on the contrary, it is in no way possible to build a basement-caisson or on a slab, only on a tape! The caisson is not recommended for pos. 1a, so you will have to wait several years before moving the boiler house to the basement or equipping it for housing.

Note: an incomplete basement floor and a basement mezzanine are two different things. In the basement mezzanine it is possible to put an outdoor front door, buried in the pit by no more than 3-4 steps.

Even less often, basements are built adjacent to the foundation of an existing house (item 2 in the figure above) - there is a high risk of a new uneven settlement of the building. If the pros are building according to the project, then the owner and operator give a subscription that the damage from all possible consequences take over. In an existing house, it is better to build a “floating” basement, at least 1 m away from the foundation tape of the house, pos. 3. Its power circuit in the section is possible in any way, however, you will have to spend money on a separate basement floor, between which and the floor floor of the house you need a free clearance of 0.3 m, i.e. and the basement pit needs to be dug deeper. The reason is the difference in the speed and magnitude of the draft of 2 separate buildings nested one into the other.

You can get by with a smaller total volume of earthwork and concrete work, as well as a general overlap, by building a connected basement - connected to the foundation of the house with rigid reinforced concrete lintels the width of the foundation tape. They are deepened, like the tape of the foundation of the house, but the norm, > 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth (NGP), and the basement walls - as needed so that you can walk in it to your full height (1.9-2.2 m + floor thickness + cushion thickness under the floor). As a result, the difference in specific pressures on the soil of the foundation of the house and the walls of the basement turns out to be a value that jumpers up to 1-1.5 m long can accept.

The T-shaped scheme (pos. 4) is used on light pliable homogeneous soils; H-shaped (pos. 5) on light heterogeneous and medium, and cellular (pos. 6) - on medium heterogeneous and heavy homogeneous. In any case, a connected basement is built only and only on a tape - on a slab or a caisson, it will tear the lintels and destroy the foundation of the building. Typical mistakes in the development of foundation and basement connection diagrams are as follows:

• The corners of the basement adjacent to the connected corners are left hanging (pos. 7).
• The connection scheme is made asymmetrical with respect to both axes of the foundation plan (pos. 8) or centrally symmetrical (pos. 9).
• The corner of the basement box is connected to the corner of the foundation, pos. 10.

The latter is especially dangerous for the integrity and stability of the entire structure. In the case, as in pos. 10, it would be necessary either to change the layout of the house with a basement to symmetry at least along one axis, pos. 11, or, better, without changing the plan, tie the inner corners of the foundation with a jumper, and complete the basement with an incomplete basement, pos. 12.

Waterproofing

In the process of developing basement waterproofing, its scheme is first selected in relation to a given structure in given specific conditions, and then suitable materials are selected. Water is an insidious element and it is impossible to protect yourself from its penetration for decades with a single obstacle. Typical case in individual construction, it is considered when, at the seasonal peak of dryness, the groundwater level drops below the basement floor by 0.2 m or more, and at the peak of moisture rises to the level of the humus layer; the most fertile soil layer is considered to be constantly moistened, but does not create any significant flow and pressure of moisture on the structure.

Under these conditions, the only reliable is the external anti-pressure waterproofing. Non-pressure only from surface runoff does not guarantee the dryness of the basement, because, firstly, in rainy years, the pressure surface water may become significant. Secondly, the most underground flow under the building may change, see above. Internal anti-capillary insulation and armor holding it may be required with a stable lower standing of the groundwater level at the level of the basement floor and above, see below.

External waterproofing of the basement is carried out in general in 2 ways: cut-off (cut-off), on the left in the figure, and diverting (outlet), on the right:

If a building with a basement stands on permeable soil (pebbles, gravel, cartilage, sand, sandy loam, loose loam), then cut-off insulation can be made without drainage; in this case, the clay castle is continued down to a level of -(0.25-0.3) m below the base of the basement floor cushion. This is its great advantage - it does not need expensive and laborious drainage system. If the basement is built of hydroconcrete, then the walls are plastered on the outside with cement-sand plaster for insulation, and instead of a clay castle, backfilling is carried out with excavated soil. This is the second advantage of cut-off insulation - self-digging clay is not suitable for a lock, you need to buy construction, and a lot.

Disadvantages of cut-off insulation, firstly, a large amount of excavation. Secondly, they are not always technically feasible - nearby buildings may not allow choosing a pit of the desired profile (see below). Thirdly, clay is an obstacle for moisture, but not a deaf barrier. It reduces the flow and pressure of water on the wall, but does not stop it completely. Therefore, external insulation is needed full-fledged (prime + coating + flooring), and if the basement is cinder block or brick, then reinforced, see above. Fourthly, cut-off insulation is applied only in its entirety, at least within the wall, since the joints of the flooring sheets need to be glued and heated, so arranging it on an existing house is very problematic - it is impossible to dig out any of its walls completely without risking the stability of the entire structure.

Drainage insulation works only in conjunction with drainage: its basis is a membrane with a reverse capillary effect that collects moisture and removes it to the drainage. The membrane itself is glued to the wall instead of the cut-off insulation sheeting and is protected from rapid soil clogging with geotextiles. The main advantage of diversion insulation is minimal or no impact on the underground runoff under the house; cut-off insulation even with drainage changes it, therefore it is recommended to isolate the basements of houses on soils with complex unstable hydrology with a membrane. Additional, firstly, a pit for cut-off insulation is needed with a width less than the removal of the blind area (practically 0.6-0.8 m is enough, if only the worker could squeeze into it). Secondly, it is possible to isolate in pieces with a width of about 1.5 membrane panels. Therefore cellars existing home almost always it is possible to isolate only by a diverting method.

The disadvantages of drainage waterproofing are also very serious. The first is an even greater volume and complexity of earthworks, only related. Building a site drainage is a serious matter, and finding a place under the drainage discharge field is also far from always possible. Second, the best membranes last up to 20 years; more often - 10-12 years, and on heavily watered loose soils for 3-7 years. If you intend to insulate the basement with a membrane, be prepared to dig the house and change it at such intervals.

When needed inside

If UGV is more than 3 months. in a year it is flush with the basement floor or rises higher, the external anti-pressure waterproofing is supplemented by the internal anti-capillary. Concrete, not to mention brick, is not a solid monolith. Its microstructure is the smallest grains of cement, similar to sea ​​urchins, the needles of which are silicate crystals. These “needles” cement grains are linked together, and the gaps are filled with sand and, in hydro concrete, hardened liquid glass (which is also silicate), and in moisture-resistant polymer additives. In both cases, micropores remain; the polymer also decomposes in 3-15 years, and under pressure, concrete passes moisture a little. It is imperceptible in the hydroelectric dam, but very much in the basement.

Options for internal anti-capillary waterproofing of the basement are shown in fig. on pos. In and D, external insulation is conditionally not shown, but it is needed here as well. Seam insulation on pos. B - at least 4 layers of roofing material, glued with prime liquid mastic and heated with a burner. It is impossible to isolate the seam with a thin solution - it will leak. Tolem or roofing bituminous insulation (hydrobutyl, etc.) is also impossible - the wall will squeeze and squeeze out of it. Steklorubit, etc. based on fiberglass, the weight of the wall, on the contrary, will not crush - the base will remain uncrushed and capillary moisture will go through it, so it’s also impossible. Pressure wall on pos. B - plastering on the grid cement-sand mortar, see above.

Insulating materials

Roof and wall waterproofers are not suitable for the basement - they are not designed to withstand the pressure of the soil and the pressure of formation waters. According to the method of application and purpose, materials for basement waterproofing are divided into:

• Primary, or primes, or impregnating - liquid mastics applied to the prepared surface (see below) to create a base for coating with other materials.
• Painting or coating - more viscous adhesive compositions, used either separately, or as a base holding overhead sheet insulation, or, again together with prime, for anti-capillary lubrication inside. In the latter case, after plastering, the walls are plastered over the mesh with any moisture-resistant plaster in one layer.
• Cement-filled thick-layer mastics - designed for coating up to 20 mm thick only on the sides facing the pressure. They are used instead of overhead materials in cases where the groundwater level does not reach the basement floor for more than 9 months. in a year.
• Overhead or pasting - sheet flexible or soft materials on a woven or fibrous base, impregnated with the insulator itself. The most versatile and most reliable insulator. They are also superimposed only on the sides facing the pressure water.
• Capillary membranes - a special coating with a reverse capillary effect is applied to the waterproof plastic base, see above.

The insulating beginning of these materials, except for membrane ones, can be as follows:

1. Bitumen - still unsurpassed in durability, but difficult to work with. How bituminous waterproofing works, see above. It is produced in the form of primary mastics on a gasoline diluent (primes), coating mastics, thick-layer mastics and overhead materials. Armor insulation is almost never required; if yes, then cement-sand plaster. Holds on any wall (concrete, brick). Penetration into concrete up to 30 mm (usually - 7-15 mm), so the treated surface loses water resistance in case of mechanical damage.
2. Bitumen-nairite mastics are frost-resistant, can be applied at temperatures down to -(15-25) degrees. Layer - up to 6 mm. Tighten cracks up to 30-50 mm wide, because they foam in the air, so the opened package must be worked out within the period indicated on it (or in the instructions). The coating retains plasticity up to -(45-60) degrees. Service life - 10-25 years. A specific material for northern construction or complex repairs of very dilapidated buildings.
3. Epoxy, epoxy-tar and epoxy-furan mastics are an even more specific material for waterproofing building structures that are regularly flooded up to full immersion in water, freezing and icing unheated. Fragile, after 3-5 years require a complete replacement. In the work are complex, toxic, carcinogenic.
4. Natural elastomers (liquid rubber) - they are easy to work with, but are only applicable as repairs to internal insulation. Only brick and cinder block fit well. The term for updating waterproofing with natural elastomers is 1-5 years, depending on local conditions. Mandatory armor insulation of at least 2 layers of cement-sand plaster on the grid, because. easily swell and exfoliate by capillary pressure. In general, an ambulance to a damp basement, until the hands and wallet reach a more serious repair.
5. Synthetic elastomers - polyurethane, silicone, MS-plastics. They act similarly to bitumen, but penetrate deeper into concrete, up to 100 mm. After 7-20 years, the insulation needs to be renewed. For repairs from the inside, they are applied to a dried and abundantly moistened surface immediately before processing, see below.
6. Penetrating (deeply penetrating) compositions - synthetic elastomers + cement + polymer additives. Produced in the form of mastics for painting with a thick layer. The work is simple. They are used for external insulation only. They are pressed into gaps up to 0.4 mm (polyurethane) or up to 10 mm (on silicone or MS) to a depth of 100 mm and clog them with cement that recrystallizes under the action of moisture. The surface to be applied must be leveled to +/-(2 mm) and thoroughly free of dust. Bituminous pasting materials do not hold on to themselves. Reservation insulation, if required - cement-sand plaster on the grid. Service life - 10-30 years. Capillary moisture is not cut off 100%, therefore, bituminous anti-capillary insulation inside is almost always needed.

What if he got wet?

Since we are talking about repairing an existing damp basement, it would be appropriate to mention sets of compositions for it. Their components are prepared, as a rule, on a different basis, but are coordinated among themselves in terms of physicochemical properties. Therefore, the repair of a damp basement from the inside must be done with compositions from one reputable manufacturer.

For an example in fig. shown as cellars different designs are isolated inside with compounds from the well-known Dehydrol kit. Shtroba wherever needed - 25x25 mm. Surface preparation - according to the instructions for acc. composition. Dehydrol 10-2 is also successfully used to make homemade waterproof concrete, see above.

How to dry a basement

Bituminous waterproofing mastics are applied to a dry surface. When they write that penetrating compounds must be applied to wet, this is correct. But when they add that it is better for freshly poured concrete, this is fundamentally wrong. Capillary moisture in the wall, prepared for processing with penetrates, should go deep into the dry mass and, as it were, pull the insulator along with it. If the mass of concrete is saturated with water, it will flow out through the capillaries and, conversely, squeeze out the insulator. The depth of its penetration into the wall will be, at best, much less than the calculated one; resp. the service life will also decrease, tk. the destruction of the composition is outside under the action of air.

A damp basement must be thoroughly dried before repair, and immediately before processing, moisten the walls and floor several times with water using a soft plaster brush. Wetting with a roller gives the worst effect, and spraying is even worse, because. the air is excessively moistened and capillary moisture no longer actively seeks to go into the concrete mass.

It is useless to dry the basement with a stream of warm air - it will not dry out until it starts to “sweat” again in the fall. It is necessary to dry with thermal (infrared, IR) radiation. But not “far” from an electric fireplace or a nichrome “goat” (which is dangerous), but “nearby” - incandescent lamps give it in excess, which is why they go out of use. Near infrared penetrates deeply into concrete and brick, almost not being absorbed in the air. Bulbs need to be hung with more garlands at the rate of 60-100 W per 1 cubic meter. m basement. If a control pit is driven into its wall, then most often after 10-12 days of continuous drying of the IR, it turns out that the soil around it has already begun to dry. In any case, after a week it is already possible to apply penetrates or smear with bitumen. In no case will it hurt to dry longer - how much patience is enough to watch how the electricity meter winds.

Repair not for your hands

Sometimes it is possible to dry a damp basement only by injecting special compounds into the surrounding soil, see fig. on right. For example, if a quicksand crawled under the house, then the whole structure must be saved. But in the ground this forms a body irregular shape, and it is definitely impossible to predict the further settlement of the structure. Therefore, only specialized organizations are engaged in injections into the soil based on the results of on-site research, and they take a subscription from the customer and the owner of the building that they take on any consequences.

Arrangement

This section is not about 3D wallpaper, bar, HD TV, jacuzzi or 3-bed under a mirror on the ceiling. All this and more is up to you. Mandatory and, for residential and technical, desirable arrangement of the basement consists of:

• Ventilation is a must.
• Entrance with stairs is a must.
• Entrance hatch - if the staircase is steep.
• Insulation - for residential and technical basement.
• Surface drainage - in areas with heavy rainfall in the warm season.

Ventilation

Ventilation is vital for any basement. almost all harmful, poisonous and many explosive gases are heavier than air and flow down. For the same reason, basements are built with non-volatile natural supply and exhaust ventilation.

The basement ventilation device under the house is quite simple, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig.:

The cross-sectional area of ​​the lumen of the branch pipes is 5 sq. cm for each cubic meter of basement volume, but its diameter in any case is from 60 mm. Instead of a mesh from rodents, it is better to put a filter on the inlet pipe, on the right in Fig. Flow-through with filter media (pos. 3) protects, in addition to dust, from insects, but requires regular inspection and replacement of the media. Aerodynamic (pos. 4) is cleaned as needed, you only need to attach a strip of newsprint, etc., to the mouth of the inlet pipe in the basement. flow indicator: when the air filter is clogged, the air flow stops very abruptly. But especially harmful and cunning mosquitoes with flies make their way through it.

If the basement is near the house, then making a high exhaust pipe is difficult and not always possible. In this case, the basement ventilation is built according to the scheme in Fig. on right. Minimum nozzle diameter 100 mm; for a basement of more than 10 cubic meters, a cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200b10 square meters. see per cubic meter of volume. In the basement, between the supply and exhaust pipes, there should be no obstacles to the movement of air. The upper ends of the pipes are bent with a goose from rain and snow.

Ladder

The staircase to the basement is one of the most common causes of domestic injuries, so the most careful attention should be paid to its design. From this point of view, stairs are divided into ascending and steeply inclined. On the first one, you can climb / lower with a load in your hands, without holding on to the railing, and it’s generally undesirable to walk along steeply inclined ones - awkwardly stepping or swaying, you can crash, leaning back. With a load in one hand, they generally climb a steeply inclined staircase, grabbing the railing or upper steps with the other.

The design of the stairs can be any of those shown on the left in Fig. The most convenient in terms of saving usable space are highlighted in color:

On the right in fig. the calculated ratios for them are given, and here there is a nuance: since the height of the ascent and descent into the basement is small, a staircase with an inclination of up to 50 degrees will be quite comfortable. tg 50 is almost exactly equal to 1.2, which makes it easier to calculate, based on the fact that the minimum width of the tread of the stairs is 180 mm, and the maximum allowable height is 230 mm. Let's say the height of the descent to the basement is 2.2 m, counting from the top of the ceiling (see below). At this height, an integer number of steps should fit, we take 10. The height of the step is then 220 mm. Divide by 1.2, we get 183 mm - suitable. The removal of the stairs in the plan will be 183x10 = 1.83 m, which is also not bad. The area under the stairs, with a minimum allowable width of 0.8 m - 1.83X0.8 = 1.464 sq. m.

About erroneous stairs

What you don’t have to be smart with the basement staircase is, firstly, to do it on a string (one stringer) with hanging steps, pos. 1 in the figure, such stairs are extremely traumatic:

Secondly, pour the concrete stairs in place, pos. 2. Ready-made concrete stairs are a real monolith, they are poured entirely into a detachable form. There are no working concreting joints in them, and when pouring with a “self-made” they are inevitable: the upper stage cannot be poured until the lower one has seized. The seams are weak, in the basement they soon crack, and as a result, a home-made concrete staircase to the basement serves less than a wooden one.

Basement stairs

In a dry basement, a wooden staircase serves no less than himself. A properly made wooden staircase does not suddenly collapse and, before the steps begin to rot, it lets you know about the violation of the structure by creaking.

The device of a wooden ladder for the basement is shown in the figure:

Instead of cutouts in the inner bowstring, you can fill it with fillies from a board or, better, thick plywood under the treads of steps, pos. but. However, the collapse of rotten wooden basement stairs in a damp basement is also common in domestic injuries, so it is better to attach the treads to steel or concrete stringer beams. The cross-sectional dimensions of the concrete stringer are from 100 mm wide and from 150 mm high. Steel - channel from 100 mm or I-beam from 80 mm.

Methods for attaching wooden treads to steel and concrete stringers are shown in the figure:

Dowels for fastening to concrete are made from pieces of 8-18 mm corrugated rebar. Deepening in concrete from 60 mm; in a tree from 30 mm. Holes in fillies for landing on dowels are drilled 2-2.5 mm narrower; fillies are impaled with blows of a mallet. Mounting the treads on the legs allows you to simply arrange the railing: the reinforcements are released upwards to the height of the railing, and for the supports of the treads and balusters, pipe sections are put on them; can be plastic. It is best to attach the treads to the strip - they will not rot even in a damp basement.

In the case when there is not even one and a half squares under the stairs, here in fig there are drawings of a wooden steep staircase for the basement. It will definitely need a hatch, see below.

Note: all details wooden stairs to the basement, before assembly into the product, they must be impregnated with an oily water-repellent composition (it can be worked off), and the finished staircase is varnished with acrylic varnish for outdoor use or painted with moisture-resistant paint. Best of all - acrylic enamel for baths.

Entrance and hatch

There is often no place for a climbing staircase to the basement under a private house, and then the entrance to it is made from the outside. So it is generally necessary if a ready-made concrete staircase is purchased for the basement - they are not made with a slope of more than 40 degrees. Then, firstly, the entrance to the basement must be protected from precipitation by a canopy, see fig. on right. The overhang of the roof of the canopy should protrude forward above the edge of the upper step by less than 30 cm, and on the sides and rear - from 15 cm. Secondly, the upper step should protrude above the ground or blind area by at least 70 mm, and the opening of the basement door should be with a threshold of 90 mm. Both are necessary so that rain and melt water does not penetrate into the basement. It is better to make a threshold with a height of 120-130 mm, attaching ramps with a width of 400 mm or more to it on both sides.

The hatch to the basement is also a thing not so simple. “Lada” from boards with a rope now, probably, no one is doing anymore - there is a wide range of ready-made basement hatches on sale. In the ceiling (see below), they are immured with a cement-sand mortar, and the price is next. way:

• Non-automatic with a mechanical stop, sort of like the old sofa beds: pulled, raised - snapped into place. It is necessary to close - pulled up, snapped off, lowered.
• Semi-automatic in a spring-lever mechanism - pulled all the way, kept open. It is necessary to close - pushed down, sank.
• Semi-automatic with a pneumatic lift - pulled a little up, opened. It is necessary to close - pushed down, he smoothly closed.
• Automatic with a pneumatic lift - stepped firmly on the edge of the lid, removed his foot - it opened. To close, lightly push the lid down, closes.

In terms of ease of use, both semi-automatics are equivalent, but automatic ones are nothing more than a marketing gimmick without regard for safety. Let's imagine that furniture is brought into the house. The riggers (or you and an assistant) are carrying a closet. The front one steps on the hatch, it opens. The rear one does not see what is under his feet, and he is not up to it - he falls through, is crippled. If you really want to fork out for the steepness of the basement, take an auto hatch with remote control from the remote control, these are also sold.

Warming

Insulation is necessary for a residential and technical basement. The last - so that the water in the pipes does not freeze, and fuel savings are noted only in insulated bulk boilers. It is also desirable to insulate the basement storage near the house: building construction good bridges of cold in winter, and warm in summer.

Be sure to insulate the basement with sand backfill, see Fig., so that seasonal soil movements do not tear the insulation.

Mineral wool and cellulose insulation, which is excellent in all other respects, are not suitable for basement walls: they cake and collapse under the ground. Granular foam is also bad: under the pressure of soil and formation water, it quickly crumbles into granules. Extruded polyethylene foam (EPS) is more or less stable in the ground; spray applied polyurethane coating lasts more than 10-15 years. Insulate both in the usual way, and before backfilling the sand cushion, they are protected with cement-sand plaster.

Drainage

In places with heavy rainfall in the warm season, no basement without surface contour drainage at home will always be dry. In other cases, drainage is also useful: it reduces the range of GWL fluctuations, which makes it possible to simplify basement waterproofing and / or increase its effectiveness. Equally important, the impact of a drained house with a basement on underground runoff is reduced significantly. Irregular settlement of such buildings is extremely rare as a result of gross violations of construction. Scheme of the contour device surface drainage residential building is shown in Fig. on right. The discharge field can be placed under a garden or, better, a garden: almost the same atmospheric precipitation is collected in drains, quite suitable for irrigation.

Basement under the garage

The basement in the garage is attractive in that it does not require the withdrawal of land or the complexity of the design of a newly built house. The basement under the existing garage is being built without demolishing the housing. But there are special requirements for the equipment of the basement under the garage, because. explosive vapors of fuels and oils heavier than air; much heavier - in the cold, when they thicken.

Firstly, the hood of the garage basement must be high, rising above the roof by at least 1.5 m, on the left in the figure:

It is unacceptable to display “geese” near the ground! Secondly, the exhaust duct needs an increased cross section, from 15 sq. cm per cube of basement volume or at least 120 mm in diameter. Thirdly, the hood must have an aerodynamically closed type deflector that provides some “cold” draft and in complete calm, for example. TsAGI or Khonzhenkov deflector. Fourthly, in winter, the basement should be warmer than an unheated garage, so that air is taken into the ventilation only from the outside. Therefore, they insulate the basement under the garage from above, as attic floor at home, on the right in Fig.

Drivers, of course, will ask: but the machine will not push through this feather bed? More and how. Therefore, in the insulation, it is necessary to provide gaps along the length and lay the ruts in them flush with the floor. It will be necessary to drive into the garage carefully so as not to move out of them. In general, the basement in the garage is not all that attractive; there is a place for a repair pit.

Construction

Building a basement on your own is possible only in dry or seasonally dry soil. In the latter case, all the work of this year must be fully completed before the rise of the GWL. Groundwater pumping is so complicated and expensive that it is rarely used in large-scale construction. The exception is the basement-caisson, which is built upstairs to the side and installed in the pit, but if it is concrete, you need a crane from 20 tons and a team of experienced slingers-riggers. There is, however, an exception to the exception, see at the end. In general, the construction of the basement includes the following. work stages:

• Excavation of the pit;
• Filling the base - slabs or soles of the tape;
• Installation of communication input channels;
• Walling;
• Floor device - on dense ground when the GWL is above its level for no more than 3 months. after at least 6 months. at the end of the annual cycle of work;
• Cover installation;
• Basement equipment, see above.

foundation pit

Building a basement in a pit with vertical walls is a gross mistake - it is impossible to make high-quality waterproofing. When insulating an existing basement, the house is dug in pieces, and the finished area is filled in before choosing the next one. A typical excavation profile for the construction of a basement is shown in fig. on right. The width of the passage outside of the future wall is at least 75 cm along the bottom. The slope angle is acceptable for this soil.

Base

At this stage, you need to order a concrete truck with reinforced concrete. It's not about the quality of self-mixing, it can be better than the factory one, but in its volume. The working seams of concreting on the base of the basement are highly undesirable, so you need to fill in one bay. It is also wrong to lay the reinforcing cage directly on the sand-gravel pillow - lean preparation is needed for crushed stone, see below. Before pouring, insulation is applied to the preparation with lapels on the sides of the pit 150-200 mm above the thickness of the slab / sole. Concrete is poured into the resulting bowl. Thus, direct contact of concrete with soil is excluded, which, in turn, excludes the formation of holes in the monolith. The fistula may not lead to dampness of the basement, but it will let moisture through to the fittings, and in fact keep the base of the basement on itself and the whole house. After pouring the concrete mass, it is deaerated (deaerated) by piercing each cell of the reinforcement cage in the middle with a rod. After the monolith has set, it is covered with wet burlap, which is kept moist until the base reaches 25% strength; in a typical summer in the Russian Federation, this is approx. a week.

Walls

Basement walls are built according to the usual building technology for this material. If a basement-caisson is being built (see below), the walls are built along with the base. Door and window openings are reinforced with concrete lintels with a height of 80 mm or more with a laying of 120 mm in concrete walls and from 200 mm into brick and cinder blocks. It is impossible to strengthen the openings in the basement with steel or wooden mortgages! Remember again: the basement supports the whole house! When light dry spots appear on the cured drying concrete of the walls, anti-capillary insulation can be applied. On brick and block walls - after 3-4 days of erection to the top.

permanent floor

The permanent floor in the basement on the tape is immediately poured during the construction process after the walls have set at least 25% strength. Under a permanent floor, crushed stone backfill is poured over sand with a lean liquid cement mortar: cement from M400: sand 1:3 - 1:4. Pour to a level of 40-50 mm above the tops of the pebbles. When the filling sets, insulation is applied and the cement:sand:crushed stone 1:3:2 screed is poured with a layer of 70-80 mm. It is possible to lay a clean floor and finish the walls in 2 weeks - a month.

overlap

Ceilings from hollow or box-shaped ready-made slabs of the road and require for the installation of lifting mechanisms with qualified operators. Self-made monolithic overlap is laborious and technologically difficult. He, like the ceilings from hollow core slabs, has a clearly excessive bearing capacity for a private house. Is it possible, having sacrificed it within reasonable limits, to cover the basement with something moderate in price and easier to work with?

In modern individual construction, prefabricated block floors, designed specifically for such a case, are becoming more common. You can compare a monolith with a prefabricated block structure according to the figure:

Insulation of the floor of the house above the basement under the prefabricated block floor in normal climatic conditions is not required or a simplified one is required. Bearing beams are poured together with the bearing belt (see below) in grooved formwork on supports, which are much easier and simpler to make than solid hanging under a monolith.

Laying and belt

It is impossible to build a house with a “box-on-box” basement: at the top of the basement walls you need a large strobe, into which a monolithic ceiling enters, slabs are laid or the supporting belt of a prefabricated block ceiling is poured. In all cases, the minimum wall thickness and the laying of the ceiling in it are different for walls made of different materials.

How much overlap is laid in a wall of concrete or brick is shown in the figure:

Waterproofing is shown conditionally, in the case when the basement ends with the basement of the building with its ceilings. For a cinder wall, the laying is the same as for a brick one, but its distance from the top is at least 2 rows of masonry.

How to build a caisson

The reinforcement cage of the basement caisson is assembled at the top as a whole and installed in the prepared pit (see below) by a crane. It is impossible to assemble the entire frame by welding - the reinforcement will weaken due to metal tempering. Therefore, the frame is first knitted with wire as usual, and then individual joints are welded: at the bottom at the corners of the cells 3x3 or 4x4 cells of the frame, and on the walls in each 3rd or 4th belt.

A pit for a caisson is prepared as for other basements, see above. Further construction goes in the following sequence (see also Fig.):

Note: the concrete walls of the basements on the slab and the tape are also poured according to paragraphs. 7 and 8. Pouring between the boards and the ground is a mistake - what kind of reliable anti-pressure insulation is there.

Couldn't it be sooner?

A very valid question. The construction of an eternally dry, reliable basement is difficult for the inexperienced to eerily in the knees, and even the experienced ones have a headache. The answer is positive: you can buy a ready-made basement-caisson, put it in a pit on a sand and gravel pillow and fill a clay castle (necessarily, otherwise it will pop up). If he (the basement) is needed not under the house, not residential and not technical. Vegetables in the bins will have to be sorted out from time to time, but suppliers optionally offer delivery to the place and installation in the finished pit.

Caissons for basements are produced as steel welded insulated ones with a hatch, stairs, ventilation and fittings for concreting (optional), on the left in fig. Plastic ones are also on sale, but don’t take them - 100% pop up. Caissons for cellars are also cooked by individuals from steel from 8 mm. For a hook on the ground from floating, staples are welded from a strip of 12 mm or more (on the right in the figure), but this is less reliable, and you have to isolate the caisson from corrosion yourself.

It is possible, by the way, to do even cheaper - to make a basement-caisson from a used shipping container. If you cover it with a thick layer of bitumen-cement mastic, it will last at least 100 years in the ground. For a hook on the ground, pipes are threaded into the eyes of the rigging paws at the bottom and an anchor frame is welded to them. Container width - auto dimension 9 feet (2.7 m). Length - 12-70 feet (3.6-21 m); the most running 20 and 40 feet (6 and 12 m). It’s enough for a basement, and how savvy lovers make basements from shipping containers, see the video.