Stages of building a bath: from foundation to interior decoration. We build a bath with our own hands - a phased demonstration of construction Making a bath with our own hands

Having your own plot of land gives you an excellent opportunity to acquire your own bath or sauna.

In order for the installation of such a building not to cause problems, we will consider in this article the stages of building a bath with our own hands.

Installation progress

The first step is to choose a place for the future building. If your plot is small, then it’s quite simple: the foundation should be laid where a residential building will not be built.

For a larger area, make your choice based on personal preference. However, compliance with the rules must also be adhered to.

Foundation

The construction of a bath in stages with your own hands begins with the installation of the foundation. The bath is not a large multi-storey building and does not imply the presence of heavy stationary furniture inside. Therefore, it does not make sense to pour a monolithic reinforced concrete slab and you can get by with a pile or strip foundation.

Although the pile model comes out somewhat cheaper, it is recommended to resort to it only in cases where the terrain for construction is sloping or low-lying.

The best choice would be the implementation of a strip foundation, because it:

• Has higher strength. It will come in handy in case you want to attach an attic in the future.
• Creates additional thermal insulation. For a couple, this is an important advantage.
• Provides the possibility of organizing a subfloor or cellar.

1. We remove vegetative layer from the site chosen for construction.
2. With the help of pegs and a cord, we mark the future foundation.

1. We dig a trench around the entire perimeter and in places where they will pass. Depth - 50 cm, width - 10 cm more than the expected walls.

Tip: in order to save money, it is allowed to lay a foundation under the inner walls flush with them.
Since they still do not have a bearing load.

1. We fall asleep a pillow of gravel 15 cm thick and carefully ram it.
2. Lay a layer of waterproofing in the form of a polyethylene film.
3. We mount on the sides of the moat a formwork from knocked down plank boards, which should rise 20 cm above the level of soil freezing.

1. We mix the solution: gravel, sand and cement in proportions of 5: 2.5: 1. Water is added according to the situation for ease of kneading and bringing the mass of fluidity.
2. We are waiting for 28 days, after which you can proceed to further work.

log cabin

Although the price of a tree is higher than many modern building materials For a bath, there is no better option. Traditional wood with its warmth, smell and aesthetic appearance cannot be fully replaced with cheap cinder block or foam block.

For the construction of the sauna body, a wooden beam with a section of 15 cm by 15 cm is best suited.

There are two assembly methods:

• In the paw.

• Into the bowl.

During installation, the following nuances are observed:

• The optimal height for walls is 250 cm.
• Thermal insulation materials must be placed between the crowns.
• Wood is treated with antiseptics to protect against decay processes and pest attacks.

Tip: for the lower crowns, it makes sense to specifically purchase more durable and reliable tree species, such as oak or larch.
They will be able to more successfully resist the dampness coming from the earth.

Floor

1. To comply with the waterproofing, we lay a layer of roofing material on the foundation concrete.
2. Install from above wooden beams.

1. We lay an unedged board 15-20 mm thick on the beams, fixing it with nails or self-tapping screws. This is how the rough layer of the floor is obtained.
2. On the draft base we mount the logs.
3. Between lags.
   Which is great for:
   
   • Styrofoam;
   • extruded polyurethane foam;
   • basalt wool;

• • expanded clay.

1. The insulating material on top must be covered with a waterproofing layer in the form of a polyethylene film three millimeters thick.
2. We make the finishing layer from a grooved three-centimeter board.

Tip: when installing the floor structure, provide a distance of a couple of centimeters between the insulation and the finishing coating for better air ventilation.

Ceiling

Now phased construction do-it-yourself baths are suitable for arranging the ceiling, which has its own characteristics due to the presence of the most aggressive environment. After all, especially when operating in winter time From below, the strongest heat, gathered from the entire steam room, affects the ceiling, and from above, severe frost.

The hemmed construction is most consistent with bathing conditions, which is performed as follows:

1. Are installed. As in the case of the frame, you can use the methods in the paw and in the cup.

1. From above we lay and fix the unedged board.
2. From the inside, standing on a stepladder, lay a plastic film for waterproofing with a release on the side walls, closing the beam openings.
3. We install insulation sheets between the beams:
   
   • mineral wool;

• • felt;
  • penoizol;
  • Styrofoam;
  • polyurethane foam.

1. Next, we close everything. It serves as a vapor barrier and reflects heat radiation. We fasten it with a film to ensure sealing.
2. We nail wooden planks through the foil to the beams.
3. We fasten tongue-and-groove boards to the installed rails.
   Wherein:
   
   • We leave two centimeter gaps between the ceiling lining and the wall to provide air conditioning.
   • For fixing we use clamps.

Roof

The roof structure can be used as a double-pitched or single-pitched roof. Shed is of course economical, but also less practical. If you want your bath to serve you for a long time and reliably, it is recommended to install gable system. Moreover, it will also allow you to equip an attic utility room.

The roof consists of a truss system, lathing and insulating coating material. If you do not have experience in relevant work, then it is advisable to invite a specialist to carry out this stage.

Metal tile is perfect for covering. And if the slopes on one side of the building are taken out half a meter, then you can equip a wonderful woodpile.

Internal work

At this point, the ceiling and floor are already ready, therefore, the stages of finishing the bath now consist in wall cladding:

1. We stuff parallel strips on the inner surface.
2. Between them we install insulating materials. Basalt wool, felt, foam plastic and extruded polyurethane still remain in demand.

1. We cover the insulation with foil to reflect thermal radiation.
2. We sheathe with a tongue-and-groove board using kleimers. This will get rid of the protruding caps of the screws, which can later cause burns.

Everything, the bath is ready. It remains only to install furniture and a stove, after which you can begin to operate the bath.

Conclusion

Building a bath with your own hands is, of course, troublesome. But the result is worth it. It is not possible to single out the more important ones among all the stages of construction, all of them, one way or another, affect the quality of the future bath.

• The wood that is used for the construction and finishing of the bath is vulnerable to dampness and therefore it must be protected as much as possible by creating good ventilation and treating with antiseptics.
  
• The steam room will only be of high quality and economical in terms of fuel consumption, when maximum thermal insulation is provided. Therefore, pay special attention to the insulation of the building.

The video in this article will introduce you to additional materials on this topic. Happy building work!

When hiring construction team the cost of construction will double, so if you have at least basic skills, it is better to start building a bath with your own hands. First of all, you need to decide on a building plan. You can make your own or use ready-made drawings and choose the design that is most suitable in size.

Building registration

No permit is required for the construction of ancillary facilities on a private property. However, after the construction is completed, the building must be registered with the BTI.

Regulated distance between buildings

Calculation of the amount of materials

Most often, baths are built from solid or rounded logs of coniferous species, thick-walled timber, wood concrete or bricks. In recent years, foam concrete has also been used for construction. but best material for it is considered a tree. Even in the hottest heated bath from this environmentally friendly material, it will be easy and free to breathe.

Rounded log, regular and profiled timber

The construction of a bathhouse from chopped, rounded logs and timber

Building shrinkage

Collect building from a bar preferably in winter period. The fact is that in winter, moisture freezes out more slowly, and the deformation of the material occurs more evenly. By the end of summer, the main subsidence is almost over, and it will be possible to start finishing.

Foundation construction

If ground water are deep enough in the selected area, it makes sense to use the usual strip foundation. A pile or screw foundation is erected only with a close occurrence of water.

Tape and pile foundations for a bath

Laying the first crown

1. The overhead (first) crown, which is closest to the ground, needs reliable waterproofing. To do this, 2-3 layers of roofing material or other material based on bitumen are laid between it and the base. On top of it, short slats of 15 mm, treated with an antiseptic, are placed in the transverse direction, and only then the logs are laid out.

Laying direction of the rails

Corner joints of log cabins

The corners between adjacent walls can be connected in log cabins in different ways:

Corner joints of log cabins

Log house assembly

1. The logs should fit together as tightly as possible. The seams between them are laid with a sealant: tow or jute. The gap between the flashing crown and the foundation is additionally sealed with brick, mounting foam, halves of logs or bars. It is also possible to provide filling multi-level foundation, which will prevent the appearance of cracks.

Foundation with different levels

Pivot for windows and grooves in window openings for it

Do-it-yourself bath construction step by step, video, photo

Therefore, if you have at least elementary skills, it is better to start building a bath with your own hands.

Building a bath with your own hands: step by step instructions

Before engaging in the construction of a bath, you need to draw up a detailed step-by-step instruction for the work, in which you should take into account all the nuances of the technology for building a bath complex.

The step-by-step instructions that are used in the construction of the bath can differ significantly depending on the materials used for installation and the characteristics of the soil at the construction site.

In the process of building a bath complex, a variety of materials can be used for work. Depending on the type of foundation, for example, metal and asbestos-cement pipes can be used when laying a pillar foundation or cement-concrete mortar and metal reinforcement when erecting a strip foundation. For the construction of walls, the following building materials can be used:

The most popular material used in the construction of the structure of the bath complex is timber. This material is also considered the most practical and convenient to use.

The use of timber can significantly save money on the construction of the foundation. In the case of the construction of a bath complex from a bar, it is allowed to lay a light foundation. The use of timber allows you to build a building that practically does not shrink, and during the installation process it is not required to carry out additional adjustment of structural elements.

Building a bath using step-by-step instructions allows you to avoid almost all mistakes during the installation process and build an excellent bath complex with your own hands, without involving outside specialists. Step-by-step instructions for building a bath greatly facilitate the installation process, even for those homeowners who have minimal knowledge and skills in the field of construction.

Choosing a place for the construction of a bath complex

Step-by-step instructions for the construction of a bath at the initial stage involves the selection of a place for work and preparation of a construction site. The ideal option is the choice of a place for the construction of a bath at the stage of planning the placement of objects on a private land plot. Very often, if there is a small area, the bath complex has to be combined with some outbuildings, for example, such as a toilet and a summer kitchen. In some cases, the bath is combined with a residential building. Bath complexes of this type are quite complex, and their development requires the involvement of professional designers of residential buildings.

When designing a structure and determining the place of its construction, it is necessary to take into account some natural factors that influence both the choice of the location of the construction site and the layout of the bath complex:

• the level of occurrence of subsoil waters;
• determination of areas flooded during the onset of floods;
• location of a natural reservoir;
• prevailing wind direction and precipitation patterns;

Groundwater level is easy to determine on their own. For this purpose, holes should be dug at the corners of the location of the construction site with a depth of at least a meter and, after a while, check whether water has appeared in them or not. The level of occurrence of subsoil waters affects the choice of the type of foundation for the construction of a bath complex.

The best option for choosing a site for all construction and installation work is a hill located at a short distance from a natural reservoir.

Building on a hill allows you to avoid flooding during floods. The distance to a natural reservoir should not be less than 15 m, and in the absence of an elevated platform, the distance to the reservoir should be at least 30 m.

In the process of selecting a site for construction, it should be provided that the distance to the site boundary from the construction site should be at least a meter. In addition, the site for the construction of a bath should be placed at a distance of 15 m from existing buildings.

Tools and building materials necessary for the construction of a bath

Before building a bath, when developing step-by-step instructions, after choosing a place for building a structure, you should decide on the materials and tools necessary for construction work.

The most popular material is timber. It has a whole range of advantages. The most convenient in work is a kind of wood beam - profiled beam. This material is resistant to deformation. When building a bath from a bar, you will need to prepare the following building materials:

• timber having a section of 15x15 for mounting external walls;
• timber with a section of 15x10 for installation work on the construction of partitions inside the building;
• cement-concrete solution for the construction of the foundation;
• reinforcement for reinforcing the foundation;
• building materials for waterproofing;
• crushed stone to create a blind area;
• timber for creating sex logs and floors;
• materials for insulation;
• materials for interior decoration;
• materials for creating steam and thermal insulation;
• roofing materials.

The list of tools needed in the process of work includes a shovel, a hacksaw, an ax, a hand electric drill, a hammer, tools for laying interventional insulation and a mallet.

Building a bath with your own hands

The next point of the step-by-step construction instructions for the construction of the bath complex is the construction work itself.

The whole range of required construction work can be divided into several stages. The main stages of construction are the following:

• construction site marking and site preparation;
• laying the foundation;
• arrangement of the blind area;
• erection of the walls of the bath complex;
• ceiling installation;
• assembly of load-bearing roof structures;
• installation of roofing material;
• installation of hydro, steam and thermal insulation;
• assembly of communications in the premises;
• laying the floor;
• installation of finishing material.

It should be remembered that after the construction of the foundation foundation, it needs to be given time to gain maximum strength. When using a strip foundation, the period of gaining maximum strength with a cement-concrete mortar is 28 days.

Before proceeding with the installation of the walls, it is necessary to ensure the laying of high-quality waterproofing on the surface of the foundation between it and the first crown of the walls. High-quality waterproofing will significantly extend the service life of the building of the bath complex without major repairs.

After the installation of the walls of the building is completed, the assembly and installation of load-bearing roof structures is carried out. Features of the supporting structure of the roof depend on the configuration of the roof.

When the roof is mounted, they begin to install utilities and the floor in the premises, at the same stage steam, hydro and thermal insulation is installed.

Carrying out interior decoration and insulation of the bath complex

Insulation of the ceiling of a small bath can be carried out in a floor way. For this, hardwood lumber is used. Boards up to 50 mm thick are sewn onto the ceiling, after which a layer of vapor barrier material is fixed on them. Foil material is perfect for this purpose. A layer of insulation is applied and fixed on top of the vapor barrier layer. Mineral wool can be used as a heater. After laying the mineral wool, it closes protective layer foil material. The last stage of work with the ceiling will be the installation of finishing material.

If during the construction of the bath complex a beam of sufficient thickness was used, then you can do without installing a heater on inside walls of the bath complex. In this case, before finishing, a layer of vapor and waterproofing is strengthened on the walls of the bath, on which the finishing material is mounted. If the thickness of the beam is insufficient, then the insulation of the walls inside the bath is carried out similarly to the insulation of the ceiling.

Insulation of the floor in the bath room can be done using expanded clay.

For finishing inner space For a bath room, it is best to use a lining made of wood that does not have structural defects. The material is fastened with small nails.

Compliance with their sequence during the construction process allows you to build a high-quality structure that will delight the owner for a long time.

Affordable and step-by-step instruction for the construction of a bath

Step-by-step instructions for building a bath. This instruction will help to avoid problems when planning and building a bath on your site.

Building a bath with your own hands

Do you want to build a bath, but do not know what material is best to use to implement your idea? Then be sure to pay attention to the beam. A bath made of this material will be environmentally friendly, reliable and durable. At the same time, you can handle the construction of such a structure with your own hands.

Building a bath with your own hands

Advantages of timber construction

There is absolutely nothing complicated in the self-construction of a bath from a bar. This material has many advantages over its closest analogue - a rounded log (log). Among the main advantages of the beam, the following points should be noted:

• all work on the construction and further finishing of a bath from a bar can be performed without the help of third-party specialists;
• timber gives minimal shrinkage compared to all other wood-based materials;
• building a bath from a bar will require a much more modest cash investment compared to most other popular materials;
• prefabricated timber may initially have fasteners and you just have to assemble individual elements into the design right size like a constructor.

However, in order for a bath from a bar to fully show all its advantages and serve for the longest possible time, you must approach the choice of building material responsibly and competently.

What kind of timber can be used to build a bath?

The most important operational parameters of the finished steam room directly depend on the quality of the wood. First of all, pay attention that the logs are intact. No cracks or other defects are allowed. Even minor damage can lead to big trouble in the future, as a result of which the wood will rot and collapse.

Profiles of logs and beams

Make sure that there are no blue spots on the surface of the wood. Such defects indicate the presence of rot inside the material, the development of which in most cases is provoked by a variety of pathogens. It is impossible to use such material for the construction of a steam room and any other building.

There should be no noticeable signs of damage by beetles and other pests on the timber.

High-quality timber has a perfectly flat and smooth surface. It is strongly recommended to refrain from buying material with distortions and any other damage - when laying the crowns, all deviations will clearly appear.

Bath building guide

Pre-compile yourself, order or find a bath project in an open source. Calculate the required amount of building materials according to the project and proceed with the construction of a bath from a bar. Start by arranging the base.

The first stage is the foundation

The finished steam room made of wood will have a relatively small weight, which makes it possible to refuse the arrangement of monolithic buried foundation structures. A structure made of timber will feel great on an ordinary strip or column foundation.

For arranging the base belt type dig a trench around the perimeter and under the walls of the future building, fill the bottom of the pit with sand and gravel, lay a reinforcing mesh, install formwork and pour concrete. The optimal foundation depth is 70-100 cm. When choosing a specific depth, be guided by the soil freezing rates for your region.

Strip foundation - construction procedure

The structure of a monolithic strip foundation

The foundation should rise above the ground by at least 50 cm - this will provide the necessary protection of the lower rims from excessive dampness.

Inside the perimeter of the strip base, pour strips of sand and gravel. In the future, you can fill them with concrete or build a wooden floor - choose a specific option at your discretion.

To equip a columnar foundation, it is necessary to erect supports made of bricks or concreted asbestos pipes along the perimeter, in the corners and under the future internal walls of the bath. Under each such support, a concrete “cushion” should be pre-arranged. Place the posts in 150 cm increments.

The device of the supporting-columnar foundation

Regardless of the type of base chosen, it is necessarily subject to additional reinforcement.

Features of a columnar foundation with a grillage

Varieties of schemes for constructing a columnar foundation

Let the concrete gain strength for 3-5 weeks and proceed with further work.

The second stage - waterproofing the foundation

Waterproofing strip foundation with a special compound

Apply molten bitumen to the surface of the base, and a layer of roofing material on it. Let the bitumen harden and repeat the operations. As a result, you will get a reliable two-layer moisture protection.

Before proceeding with further work, impregnate all wooden elements with an antiseptic. Such processing should be carried out after the preparation of cuts for fastening the beams, if such cuts were absent initially.

The third stage - the first crown

Proceed to laying the first crown of walls. To do this, first lay the slats up to 1.5 cm thick, pre-treated with an antiseptic, on a waterproofed base. Lay the slats in increments of about 30 cm.

Laying the first crown of timber

Lay the first crown of bars on the slats. Thanks to the slats, the contact of the beam with the foundation of the bath will be excluded. This will provide additional protection against wood decay and will significantly extend the life of the material.

Scheme of assembling the first crown of a log house for a house from a bar

Lay the first crown so far without fixing. Make sure that it is laid correctly and evenly with a square and a level.

If necessary, align the lower crown beams, and then attach them to the foundation. There are several mounting methods. The most optimal and frequently used method involves fixing the beam with anchor bolts.

However, quite often, developers refuse to attach the lower beam to the foundation. In practice, the design stands perfectly even without fixing the lower crown, held by its own weight. The advantage of this solution is that in the future, if necessary, the beam of the lower crown can be replaced with much less effort.

Blow out the space between the first crown and the base with mounting foam.

Do-it-yourself log bath

Fourth stage - the rest of the crowns

For laying out the walls of the bath, a wooden beam with a section of 15x15 cm is perfect.

Cover the first crown of the beam heat-insulating material. For insulation, jute or moss is traditionally used. You can also use tow. In the case of moss or tow, the thermal insulation should be laid out with a 10 cm overlap at the edges. In the future, you will use the raised edges for the caulk.

How to build a bath from a bar

How to build a bath from a bar

Lay the second crown of the beam and fix it with wooden dowels. Pre-drill mounting holes of the appropriate diameter. Usually the length of one dowel is enough to fasten 2-3 rows of timber.

Lay out the walls of the required height. Every 3-4 rows, check the construction with a square and a building level. Place a sealant between the crowns.

How to assemble the walls of the log house

The top two crowns do not need to be fixed. The wood will shrink. Ceiling beams can only be installed after the wood has dried. To install the beams, the upper crowns will need to be dismantled.

Fifth stage - door and window openings

How to make door and window openings

There are two options for arranging openings for mounting doors and installing windows.

In accordance with the first option, the said holes are created after the construction of the log bath is completed. To do this, you must first leave small gaps in the crowns at the installation sites of doors and windows. The dimensions of the gaps depend on the dimensions of the installed products.

Door and window openings

After the construction of the bath is completed, you will simply have to make openings for mounting doors and windows with a chainsaw.

In accordance with the second method, openings for doors and windows must be left during the construction of the bath. This option requires more time and effort. To accomplish the task, you will need to use special grooves and bars with end cuts.

The sixth stage - caulking

Leave the finished timber box for "wintering" for a duration of 6-7 months. During this time, the wood will give sufficient shrinkage. For the period of "wintering" cover the beam with boards and slate.

If you used tow or moss as an interventional sealant, you can skip this step in the instructions - you will most likely not need additional caulking for your timber bath.

However, experts still recommend studying the state of the structure. If noticeable gaps are found, be sure to caulk. To do this, twist the tow or moss into a bundle and twist the material into the gap, followed by compaction.

You can also use jute sealant to fill the gaps. By most indicators, this material is superior to tow and moss, but it costs a little more.

Stage seven - the roof

The roof should become a reliable protection for your timber bath. The arrangement of the roof structure can only be started after the wood shrinks, otherwise the roof will lead and it will be significantly deformed.

First step. Lay wooden beams on top of the top wall trim.

Second step. Attach the rafter legs to the fixed beams in 100 cm increments. To connect the rafters in the ridge part of the roof, cut them at the required angle.

Installation of a gable roof for a bath

Third step. Nail a solid flooring of boards to the rafters (if soft roll material will be used for finishing) or build a crate (if you plan to trim the roof with tiles, slate or other sheet material).

Methods for connecting rafters

Fourth step. Mount the final roofing in accordance with the instructions for the selected material.

How is the roof of the bath

Fifth step. Cover the roof ridge with galvanized iron. This will protect it from adverse environmental influences.

Sixth step. Sew up the gables of the roof with suitable improvised materials - clapboard, wooden board or siding. At this point, focus on your individual preferences.

After the completion of the roofing work, proceed to the insulation and other insulation work, interior decoration and arrangement of the steam room in accordance with your project.

Building a bath with your own hands - step by step instructions!

Learn how to build a bath with your own hands. A detailed guide to the construction of timber structures. Photo + video.

Baths have come to our days since ancient times. Even in the era of the Scythians, mobile heaters and special tents were very popular. And in our time, even with the advent of a shower and a bath, the Russian bath has not become less common. It is visited not only for the sake of satisfaction, but also in order to cleanse the body of harmful substances, improve overall health and get rid of diseases.

Now there are a variety of options for building a bath. It is popular to build a bath from foam blocks with your own hands, from a bar, frame-panel materials, a log house, a log.

Before starting work, building a bathhouse may seem like a very difficult task to many, but when a detailed plan is drawn up, it turns out that the phased construction of a bathhouse with your own hands is nothing difficult. There is a lot of work, but if you design the structure correctly and perform the work one after another (in stages), then over time you will be able to see your dream come true.

As you know, the bath has huge benefits for human health. Regular visits to it can significantly increase the tone of the body and improve it, as well as get rid of some diseases. The complexity of the issue lies in the fact that if you do not have your own bathhouse, then you have to visit paid establishments. And this implies additional financial costs, you have to adapt to the schedule of her work, neglect the rules of personal hygiene, because you never know who steamed in it in front of you and how it was then cleaned. Of course, it all depends on the institution itself, but nevertheless, these factors create a certain discomfort for lovers of steam rooms. In this regard, many have the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bbuilding their own bathhouse.

Initially, this idea may seem unsuccessful, because a lot of work needs to be invested. But when the first elements begin to be built, then a do-it-yourself bathhouse, the phased construction of which will already be planned, will rise before the eyes of the dreamer in a ready-made way, which will serve as an incentive to continue on the path to your goal.

Do-it-yourself frame bath construction

Before you start building a frame bath with your own hands, you should decide on a project that is suitable for bath procedures, which means that it must ensure heat conservation in the walls of the bath. Then, after the construction of the frame, insulation work is carried out.

The bath from such material has a number of advantages. It heats up quickly and retains heat for a long time if a sufficient amount of insulation has been installed. The cost of frame materials is relatively low. This was the reason for the increase in popularity for this type of construction of baths.

Construction of a bath from a bar

Many people choose to build a bath from a bar with their own hands, as the advantages of this material, to put it mildly, inspire confidence.

The raw materials for the material are ordinary trees, which means it is environmentally friendly. In addition, being in such a bath is very pleasant and useful.

The construction process, provided that the foundation is ready, takes a little time; such a bath will serve for many years.

Do-it-yourself turnkey construction of a bath from a bar in Krasnoyarsk.

As a rule, the building is divided into three sections: a room for a guy, washing and rest.

Do-it-yourself construction of a wooden bathhouse from a log house

The material for construction is rounded logs, which are pre-processed and ready to go to the construction site.

Bath from a turnkey log house

Usually, logs are purchased from manufacturers who number them. The task of the builders will be to stack the logs in right order. It is possible to erect a building both according to a standard and according to an individual project.

Bath construction plan

Before starting construction, it is necessary to draw up a plan for the future building, prepare drawings. To do this, you must first determine the size, which depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plot allocated for construction. Then you can calculate the dimensions of the rooms.

A full-fledged bath includes a dressing room, rooms for a guy and washing (combined or not).

In order to understand the stages of construction and draw up a plan, you can find materials on this topic on the net. You just need to enter a request, for example: we build a bathhouse with our own hands, a phased demonstration of construction. After viewing the results, everything will become much clearer.

The main stages of the construction of the bath

Do-it-yourself step-by-step construction of a bath implies the implementation of each new stage after the completion of the previous one. In this case, a complex, at first glance, the process will seem time-consuming, but easy.

To understand how to build a bathhouse with your own hands in stages, a video from the Internet will help best. Or you have a familiar builder who can show and suggest. In any case, it is not worth starting work without first looking at what and how is being done.

Preparation of materials for the construction of a bath with their own hands

The most popular are the baths built of wood. They have many advantages over structures built from other materials.

Logs and several lower rows can be made from oak, which will positively affect the durability of the building. Further, four rows are laid out with logs from larch, and the last rows from linden or white spruce.

To build a bath, you need to use the middle part of the trunk, which must be dry and sanded. As a rule, wood is prepared in winter, due to the fact that it is not as wet as in warm seasons and dries faster.

Preparation of the foundation for the bath

When building a bath with your own hands, the foundation deserves special attention.

In order to choose what type of foundation to build, you need to determine the type of soil on the site.

A columnar (pile) foundation is built on slightly heaving soils. As a rule, pillars are installed at the joints of walls, both external and internal. If the distance between them is more than 2 meters, then another pole should be installed in the middle. The installation depth should not be less than 1.5 m and protrude another 30-40 cm from the ground.

The distance between the pillars is laid out with a brick, which deepens about 25 cm into the ground.

On heaving soil, a strip foundation is poured. To do this, you need to mark the area and dig a trench. Then fill the bottom with a layer of gravel and sand. After that, you need to erect the formwork, and pour concrete.

The depth of the trenches should be at least 40 cm, the width should be 30 cm. The foundation should protrude above the ground by about 15 cm. When pouring, be sure to use fittings.

Bath foundation waterproofing

The next stage is the implementation of waterproofing and the construction of the basement. To do this, use a brick, roofing material, pipe, masonry mesh, masonry mortar and mastic.

The device of the floor in the bath

For the floor, you can use clay, earth, wood or concrete.

V different rooms bath floors should be at different heights. In the steam room, the floor is 15 cm higher than in the washing room, in which the floors are 3 cm lower than in the dressing room.

The most practical option is the construction of a concrete floor with a ceramic coating.

How to make a floor in the bath

Sewerage in the bath

To drain wastewater from the bathhouse, you need to dig a well for it, a pit with a water seal and install pipes. All this must be built in accordance with the technology to ensure long-term trouble-free operation. Pipes need to be taken plastic, not iron.

Installation of a log house, a roof for a bath

If the bath frame was made by professionals, then it must be laid according to the numbers indicated on the logs.

Do-it-yourself construction of the bath roof is carried out using rafters, which are sheathed with boards, and then upholstered with roofing materials.

How to build a roof on a bath

Caulker of a bath house

To seal the gaps between the logs and insulate the walls of the house, you need to perform a caulk. To do this, you need hemp hemp, wool felt, linen tow and red moss.

You can also take factory materials, which have their advantages in the form of resistance to fungus and moths.

Installing the stove in the bath

Sauna stoves can be made of brick, cast iron or steel. Depending on the type of heating, they are wood, electric, gas or liquid fuel.

Kamenka stoves are equipped with a special chamber in which stones of different weights are placed.

Installation of a stove for a bath, insulation of the ceiling and walls in the bath

Plumbing and electricity in the bath

Water, as a rule, is supplied to the bath from a well or well.

The supply of electricity is practically no different from the supply to an ordinary house. It is only necessary that the characteristics of cables and devices comply with fire safety standards and be waterproof, as well as resistant to high humidity.

Internal finishing work in the bath

Partitions in the bath room are made of brick or wood.

The ceiling is made in two layers. The first, which is attached to the lags, is rough, the second is finishing.

The windows in the bath are set small and not very high.

Doors must open outwards. The material for the manufacture of doors is sheet pile board with a thickness of 40-50 mm.

Bath shelves are made of linden, pine, aspen or poplar. There should be no knots, as they heat up more and can cause burns.

If someone is interested in “do-it-yourself bath building video”, which will show how it is done, you can find it on the Internet without much difficulty and build yourself a building that you can only dream of

How to build a bathhouse step by step with your own hands (Video instructions)

Complete step by step guide how to build a frame, wooden bath or frame bath with your own hands from and to. Video from the masters and tips for warming baths

Bath, built in Russian traditions, is considered an ideal place to cleanse the soul and body. Regularly visiting it, it is possible to maintain health, preserve youth and get real pleasure. It is not surprising that many decide to build a Russian-style bathhouse with their own hands.

Features of the Russian bath

The Russian bathhouse, which was built by our ancestors, includes two sections: a dressing room and a steam room. The largest size of this room is 2.3x4 m, the smallest is 5x6 m. Baths with such dimensions are again popular.

1 - dressing room; 2 - steam room and washing; 3 - shelves; 4 - oven

The device of a primordially Russian bath implies:

• creation of an unburied columnar foundation based on boulders, devoid of a base;
• the assembly of a log house from selected wild logs, that is, material that has not been subjected to any treatment other than removing the bark and drying;
• construction without the use of nails;
• plugging cracks with moss and tow;
• installation of a floor ceiling;
• insulation of floor and ceiling coverings with moss and peat;
• waterproofing the structure with resin and shoe pitch;
• making a sod or shingle roof;
• building a brick oven.

Preparation for construction: drawings and dimensions

When drafting a bathhouse, one should not forget that several people will use the steam room and the washing room at once. Therefore, the area and dimensions of the bath should be determined without making serious mistakes.

The second version of the bath differs in the arrangement of the shower

To make it convenient for each user to be in the bath room, he needs to allocate at least 1.8 m² in the dressing room and 1.5 m² in the steam room. The average indicator of the total useful area of ​​​​a bath for a family is 10 m². At the same time, most of the space should be in the dressing room, and less - in the steam room and washing department.

In order to wash in Russian people of any height could, the ceiling should be built at a height of 2.4 meters.

When determining the height of the ceiling, take into account that the building will soon sit down

At the planning stage of the building, it is necessary to reflect in the drawing the area for arranging the vestibule. This room may be needed as a place to block the path of cold air from the street.

For a vestibule, 2.32 sq. m

Adherents of traditions are advised to build a bath from high-quality coniferous wood. This material is not fragile, and most importantly - it lasts a long time. And the needles are also environmentally friendly and have low thermal conductivity, that is, they do not release heat and at the same time interfere with air exchange. The unique property of this tree is considered resistance to various manifestations of the climate.

Such a wooden building should stand on a solid foundation.

For construction, you can take one of two types of coniferous wood:

1. round logs;
2. whole bars.

Experienced builders advise building a bath from beams, since this material is cheaper, and it is much easier to build walls from it. In addition, the timber construction perfectly manages without a bulky foundation.

The timber structure looks simple, but it is easy to assemble

If you opt for rounded logs, then you can be severely disappointed: a log structure settles for a long time, which is why it will not be possible to put it into operation earlier than a year and a half after construction. Unlike a log bath, a timber building can be safely used six months after the completion of construction work.

When buying bars, you should use a tape measure to check the material for compliance with the given dimensions, and then make sure good quality building raw materials. To do this, do the following:

List of materials and tools

To build a Russian bath, you need to stock up not only with beams and bricks, but also:

To carry out construction tasks, you should arm yourself with:

Do-it-yourself step-by-step construction of an object

Construction is taking place in stages:

1. along the perimeter of the future structure and under its load-bearing internal walls, pits are created to form a strip foundation;
2. sand is poured onto the bottom of the trench, the finished “pillow” is pressed and watered;
3. the pits are filled with reinforcing bars and liquid concrete, the layer of which is smoothed cement mortar;

   Before pouring concrete from the boards, formwork is being built.

4. concrete forms the base for a brick oven;
5. several layers of waterproofing material are placed on the platform, processed bituminous mastic;
6. they assemble a log house, connecting the beams according to the method “at the corners into a paw, and the ends into half a tree without a trace”, laying a heater between them and setting each row at a distance of 20 cm from the edge of the dowel;

   The corners are connected in 4 steps, and the ends in 3 steps

7. prepare a platform for the floor, that is, pour a 10 cm layer of sand, press it, and then cover with a 10 cm layer of crushed stone;
8. crushed stone is covered with sheets of roofing material, adjoining edges for several centimeters;
9. cement is placed on the roofing material, creating a screed with a slope, thereby arranging the flow of waste water towards the sewer pipe built into the ground and leading to a separately dug pit;
10. a facing material is glued to the hardened cement screed, on top of which a wooden crate is placed;

    Wooden crates on the floor keep your feet from touching the cold floor

11. floor beams are attached to the upper bars of the walls in a horizontal position;
12. the installed beams are connected with iron brackets to the rafters - thick bars;
13. fasten the rafter legs to each other using ridge bars;
14. the rafters are covered with a rolled waterproofing sheet and wooden flooring - the basis for the roofing material;
15. create a ceiling, that is, non-bearing walls lay out boards every 2.5 meters;
16. lay over ceilings vapor barrier film and put insulating material.

Finishing

Finishing work begins after shrinkage of the structure. First of all, all surfaces inside the bath are covered with an antiseptic composition.

Interior decoration includes the following tasks:

1. installation of the crate directly on the walls and ceiling;
2. laying in the gaps of the crate of insulation and vapor barrier material;
3. flooring lining or other facing material.

Lining is laid on the ceiling and wall

If only the lining has become the most popular building material for the interior decoration of the bath, then a lot of materials are in demand for facing the outer walls of the building:

• vinyl or metal siding;
• plastic lining;
• block house imitating the look of a log house;
• edged or unedged boards, characterized by a low price.

The material extends the life of the structure

Search for stones for a bath room

In the steam room, it is customary to use igneous rocks. Formed during a volcanic eruption, they are resistant to extreme heat. The igneous rocks that positively affect the energy forces of a person include:

• polished or chipped jadeite, the main feature of which is beauty;
• talc chloride, which is able to absorb moisture and, evaporating it, create the necessary steam in the bath;
• basalt that can withstand high temperatures.

In addition to the benefits, this stone gives aesthetic pleasure.

Metamorphic rocks can be laid on the stove, which tend to normalize blood composition and improve well-being. We are talking about such stones as:

• white quartz, called hot ice, which releases ozone when cooled sharply;
• crimson quartzite, the second name of which is the royal stone.

Such a stone is ideally combined with brickwork.

To create steam in the bath, you can use full-crystalline rocks, for example:

• dunit;
• serpentinite.

These stones are able to regenerate cells of the nervous system, increase immune strength and have a beneficial effect on the functioning of the thyroid gland.

The length of such a stone is about 20 cm

If you want to move away from traditions, then it is better to use cast-iron stones - balls produced by industry - as steam generators in the bath. They instantly heat the room and keep warm for long hours. True, cast-iron stones undergo rusting after a short service life and carry no properties useful to humans.

Definitely it is impossible to put stones of sedimentary and siliceous rock on the stove. Their structure is porous, which means that, when cooled sharply, they become covered with cracks and small particles scatter in a zone of one meter.

Exploitation

The main requirement for using a bath is to create the right temperature. In the steam room, this physical value should be within 55–77 degrees. The temperature indicator is selected individually, that is, it depends on the preferences of the owner of the bath. It is customary to heat the washing room up to 40 °, and the rest room - up to 20 °.

In order for the bath to serve for a long time and properly, you need to use it according to the rules:

• put into the furnace only any dry fuel, except for firewood from coniferous wood;
• keep the combustion chamber door closed, thereby avoiding the escape of hot sparks;
• do not allow the chimney to glow until it turns red;
• do not touch hot surfaces, including the walls of the tank for heating water;
• keep the bathrooms clean;
• ventilate the bath sectors after each firebox for four hours;
• try not to splash water on the glass surfaces in the room (windows and doors);
• clean and inspect the chimney for holes at least once a quarter.

The owner of the bath will have to carefully care for wooden surfaces. Elements inside the bath, made of wood, are supposed to be covered twice a year special means to protect against fungus and decay. External processing of the wooden walls of the building is recommended after two years of operation. To do this, it is better to use antiseptics, which include wax.

Wood deteriorates over time and therefore needs careful maintenance.

So that the stove of the Russian bath would give right amount heat, it is necessary to be able to regulate the force of traction. To do this, more or less open the door of the chamber for the accumulation of ash. Excessive draft will cause the furnace to heat up too much, and this will bring the equipment out of service. If the force that causes air to enter the furnace is normalized, then the stones in the bath are heated to a standard temperature.

During the combustion of the furnace, the operation of the chimney should be monitored. Firewood consumption can be minimized, and the efficiency of heat supply can be increased, just not completely covering the chimney damper. But this is allowed to be done only after the absolute closure of the ash chamber.

Video: building a bath from scratch

You can get real joy from the construction of a Russian bath. It is clear that this work is impossible without skills and labor, but the result causes pride. This feeling is even stronger if the object was built on its own.

From ancient times, the bath was sung and was an integral part of Russian folklore. It is often referred to as a place to purify the body and soul. It is especially nice to have your own steam room in a summer cottage or in a private house, which is quite easy to build with your own hands without the involvement of outside help.

Peculiarities

A bath is a place with a special comfort and aura, which requires careful observance of the conditions, rules and stages during construction. On the modern market there is a wide variety of materials, thanks to which the construction of a steam room can be done very quickly and quite cheaply.

To build it with your own hands, you need to consider a few points.

• The place of the future bath. Its location should not be chosen at random. There are a number of instructions and tips that will help determine the territory for future construction.
• From what the foundation will be laid, what form it will take.
• Building dimensions. Masters advise to calculate the area in such a way that each person has about 3-4 square meters. m. For this reason, it is necessary to think in advance what approximate number of people will visit the bath.

• Material, its quantity, purchase.
• Choose the type of heating (electric boiler or traditional wood burning). The traditional Russian bath implies the presence of a real stove. Modern steam rooms are increasingly equipped with an electric heater, which quickly heats the room to a predetermined temperature, and also does not require constant maintenance of the fire.
• Finishes and accessories. It's always nice to be in a beautiful and clean room. This also applies to baths. External decoration plays an important role. High-quality and skillful design will always contribute to complete physical relaxation and peace of mind. Do not forget about bath accessories (buckets, brooms, hats and others). Of course, without them, you can steam and wash well, but there are special cases in life when “bath romance” is simply necessary.

You can start work only when the owner has decided on all the stages. Otherwise, this process may drag on for a long time without exact dates for completion.

Experienced masters in the construction of baths are advised to carefully consider all the details and not to rush during construction. Especially when you do it yourself. It takes a lot of effort to make this place truly a real bath, and not just a room where you can wash.

Where to place?

The location of the bath is one of the most important issues. Convenience and comfort when using it depends on it. It is also important where it is planned. Many people think that it can be any plot in the country, the basement of a private house, a roof or basement in an apartment building.

There is a large number of rules, which is primarily aimed at the safety of a person and his home (if it is next to the future bath).

• It is advisable to make the bathhouse a separate building, since with poorly made waterproofing, adjacent rooms can become damp. If the area of ​​​​the site allows, then it is best to place it 8–10 m from the main house. If this is not possible, then you can make it in the form of an extension to the house. It is very convenient when it is in the backyard.
• Particular attention should be paid to drainage and water supply. The bath should be at least 25–30 m from a well or well. This is due to the fact that the steam room is a direct place of water pollution, which should not flow along the ground, but into a specially designated drain.
• It is good when there is a reservoir at 30–40 m. It is not worth putting it closer, since the onset of floods is possible, the structure will be flooded.

• It is not recommended to locate this building next to the road. This prescription is more about ethics than safety. It is not always pleasant when strangers can see you naked.
• The bath should not border on nearby areas, so as not to cause discomfort to the neighbors when the owners decide to have a good rest and take a steam bath.
• It is desirable that the doors face south, and the windows are located on the west side. These tips are related to weather conditions and the characteristics of human psychology. They say that the wind from the north is much colder, so there is a high chance of getting a bad cold. As for the windows, the rays of the setting sun will help you relax and get

The bath is a room with a high temperature inside, then, unfortunately, cases of its ignition are not rare. In this regard, the choice of location for its location should depend on the material from which the foundation and load-bearing walls are made. According to fire safety rules, if the building is made of non-combustible building materials, then it can be located 5–6 m from the dwelling (house). If this whole tree or part of the steam room has wooden base or finishing, then the distance increases to 8–12 m.

Do not forget that there are neighboring houses and buildings in the neighboring territory. Their location must also be taken into account, since non-compliance with the norms can lead to unpleasant proceedings, and, as a result, the demolition of the installed bath.

Projects

Not every person can boast of a large house and a huge plot of land. But having modest or large possessions, you always want to have your own bathhouse or at least a mini-steam room.

If there is enough land for building, you can create a reference bath, which should have a steam room, a dressing room, a relaxation room (sometimes they make a pool there) and a shower or washing room. There you can wash off the remnants of soap and shampoo, or prepare the body for the heat (people take a warm shower with warm water). Owners of a truly large area can equip a bath room for a jacuzzi, massage, billiards and others.

But in the conditions of a small area for construction, you can easily combine several rooms (dressing room and rest room, dressing room and shower room). It is worth noting that this comfort and coziness in the bath does not disappear anywhere.

Depending on the quadrature, you can choose the ideal solution. For example, if it turns out to build a bath with a size of 3 square meters. m, then a small steam room (approximately 1.8 sq. M) and a pre-bath room (1.2 sq. m) can fit there. This space may well be enough for one or two people to visit without much discomfort.

In the building 6.5 sq. m will fit the same number of rooms, but they will be more spacious. Under the steam room, it is better to allocate 3.5 square meters. m, and the rest of the place under the dressing room. Some owners put a small shower in the corner.

If you have 9 or 10 sq. m, you can plan the territory more interestingly. Under the "hottest place" it is better to give 5 square meters. m, where 2-3 people can comfortably accommodate. The rest of the room is easily divided into a dressing area and a small shower.

Bath size 12-15 square meters. m is much easier to equip, since you do not need to cut out every meter. Here you can already give more space for a steam room to go there with a small company (3-4 people), or combine it with a washing room (1 sq. M) and make a large lounge with a table for drinking tea. It is also easy to divide the room into 3 separate rooms: a steam room, a shower room and a dressing room.

When there is room to turn around, it is much easier to divide the space. It all depends on the preferences of the owner of the bath. If he loves big companies, then of course it is better to focus on the size of the steam room, because you can relax in the house after all the procedures. But when solitude and bath romance are more valued, then it is worth considering a rest room. There, a person can sit in an armchair with hot tea, think about life, have a sincere conversation with a friend, read a book.

materials

The selection and purchase of material for building a bath is best done by yourself, as it will be possible to check its quality before installation. The market is full of different options. Thanks to this, you can easily build a beautiful, high-quality and budget steam room with a dressing room. Most masters claim that the material from which the bath structure is made (its foundation) does not affect the bath procedures in any way. In this regard, more attention should be paid to the choice of the internal component, namely the material that will be inside the steam room.

In the minds of most people, a bathhouse is only made of wood or stone. But it is not so. Materials are improved in their qualities, and are also combined depending on the region of residence.

For the southern regions, it is not advised to use timber or wood for the frame, as there are many pests (bark beetle, grinder beetle, barbel, and others). From high temperature and humidity, fungus and mold appear. Therefore, the service life is very short - 2-4 years. For the southern part of Russia, the use of stone or brick is recommended. Most often, wood concrete blocks, polycarbonate (for a summer bath), aerated concrete, and sandwich panels are used there.

For the northern regions, wood is more preferable. Due to its natural features, it does not need to be treated with chemistry from pests. For this reason, the bath will be more environmentally friendly.

If it was decided to make a wooden frame bath, then the walls will require a wooden bar directly (the quantity is purchased based on the project) or wooden sleepers (rather cheap building material), insulation and sheathing material. It can be OSB boards. They are pressed sawdust with resin, wax and boric acid.

For the inner lining, they take even pre-prepared boards, and for the outer - lining or eurolining. Sometimes (to save money) people use wooden pallets. Due to their shape, they can be used to build strong enough walls. Of course, they will need to be insulated. This option is the most successful for a summer steam room. To build a frame and walls in a brick or stone bath, you will need silicate brick, shell rock or bottle. Increasingly, cinder blocks began to be used. As for the exterior and interior decoration, the materials can be different.

Sometimes, when there is such an opportunity, skilled craftsmen make the base from a metal container. Construction is going very fast. But there are some nuances here (you need to cut holes for the door, make an additional partition for the steam room itself, and others). All walls are also carefully insulated and sheathed.

The interior decoration of the ceiling in the dressing room can be made of wood such as alder, linden or pine. If we talk about the ceiling in the steam room, here experts recommend mounting a lining (it tolerates high temperatures better). It should be from a tree species that does not emit strong-smelling resins (spruce, pine, fir). The best option for this would be linden, alder, cedar. Under no circumstances should chipboard or fiberboard be used. When heated, they release substances that harm the human body.

Wall insulation also requires special attention. They insulate the bath, as a rule, only inside, but they can also lay the outer layer of this material (into the frame of the building itself). If the building is made of a log house, then the insulation is placed on a lattice frame (crate). To do this, use mineral wool or other organic heaters. In the case of a stone or brick bath, the same mineral wool is taken, but it is laid in a thicker layer (5–6 cm).

In the steam room itself, after a layer of insulation, a vapor barrier is necessarily laid. For these purposes, thick foil or a special self-adhesive three-layer film can be used. It consists of a polyvinyl chloride mesh with two layers of film with small holes for steam removal. For the floor in the steam room, all the same wood that was used for wall and ceiling cladding is suitable, and tiles are usually laid in the dressing room. It is convenient to wash and disinfect from fungus and mold.

Important areas

A bath is not just a steam room, but also a place for rest and relaxation. In order to fully restore strength and spiritually cleanse, there must be such zones as a steam room, a change house (waiting room), and a shower. Of course, when the territory is small, there is not enough space for all sorts of extensions, but you can always find a way out. For example, combine functional areas in one room.

A bath without a dressing room is uncomfortable to use, especially if the house is 10–15 meters away. It is necessary so that a person can safely undress, prepare for the procedure. Also, this room plays an important role in the heat balance. The change house helps not to "lose" the heat from the steam room, and also blocks the way for cold air currents in the winter. On top of that, all bath accessories are stored here: buckets, ladles, various gels and shampoos, bathrobes, caps to protect hair from overheating, slippers and much more. Without this room, the use of the bath will be uncomfortable and inconvenient. With sufficient size, you can put a small table there to drink herbal tea, dry and cool down for going outside.

If we talk about a shower, then according to the recommendations of doctors, it must be. Before entering a hot room, you need to prepare your body - take a warm shower. It will be easier for the body to endure sudden changes in temperature, and the pores will open much faster for active sweating and further cleansing. This area does not have to be large (in the form of a shower stall or an installed "standing bath"). One square meter is enough, which can be hung with a curtain. In the case when it is possible to make a large and full-fledged bath, then it can be equipped with a separate room for a sauna or a jacuzzi. It all depends on the preferences of the owner.

The most important thing when building a bath with your own hands is to make it as comfortable as possible for your use.

Mounting technology

By itself, the process of building a bath is simple, if you have a clear plan of action. To get a high-quality and beautiful building, you need to follow a series of steps step by step.

• Prepare the area for future construction work. This includes clearing the ground of debris, digging up shrubs (if any), cleaning up stone boulders, and leveling the surface (it is necessary to remove earthen embankments or fill deep holes). They also make markings for pouring the future foundation.
• Foundation. It may be different in its configuration and type of installation. Masters recommend columnar or pile.
• Building walls and installing roofs. At this stage, walls are being built, insulation is being laid, holes are being made for doors and windows, a roof is being built (it is imperative to leave an opening for the chimney).

• Interior decoration of the premises. It is made based on the chosen style. Doors are installed, windows are inserted. The room is being prepared to accommodate the necessary elements for the steam room and the bath as a whole.
• Installation of the stove and tiered benches in the steam room.
• Arrangement of furniture and accessories.

Strictly adhering to the work plan, it will turn out to build a good bath. Experienced builders advise investing in advance for each stage so that the construction does not drag on for many months or years.

Foundation

In the case when a small bath is planned, it is more expedient and cheaper to make an ordinary strip foundation. The most important thing is to produce good thermal insulation otherwise the floor will take heat from the room. As a result, condensation may form, and then a number of unpleasant consequences.

The creation of the foundation includes several stages.

• Before construction, it is necessary to clean and mark the area. As a rule, 10–15 cm of soil is removed. They mark the boundaries for building with wooden stakes (15–20 cm). A line or twine is stretched between the pegs. The evenness of the corners is checked (they must be exactly 90º).
• Next, the soil is dug along the marked trajectory to a depth of 60–70 cm (the earth can be thrown to the center, it will still come in handy). A layer of sand 10–15 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the resulting trench and rammed. Sometimes for greater density it is slightly moistened with water. Following the sand, a layer of granite stone is poured or a brick is laid in one layer. This will be the supporting frame for the crate, which is made of a thick metal rod and also laid in one piece.

• Formwork is made from wooden boards. It will serve as a form for pouring cement mortar. In this regard, the boards should be 40-50 cm above ground level.
• The solution for pouring is prepared in certain proportions: 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand and 3 parts of fine gravel. By consistency, it should resemble sour cream. It must be loaded immediately. It is advisable to initially calculate the required amount, otherwise you will get a foundation with poorly connected layers.
• For further work, you will need a construction vibrator, which can be rented. With it, you need to “shake” the poured cement mortar so that all the air comes out and the voids go away.
• The next step is to level the top layer. After 5-6 days, you can remove the wooden sides. In this form, the foundation is left until completely dry and fastened. Masters recommend to withstand 20-25 days before continuing construction. During this time, the foundation must be watered, otherwise cracks may form due to uneven drying.
• Do not forget about special openings for communications (sewer pipes, electrical wiring). At the pouring stage, the pipes should already be in the planned place.

If you plan to build a large bath, and the site has a complex bumpy and uneven shape, then it is better to install the foundation on piles. They come in several types: some are curled, while others are “screwed” into the ground. For a bath, both options are suitable.

Before its installation on the site, similar preparatory work, as with a strip foundation. Particular attention should be paid to the issue of freezing of the earth in winter. Usually these data are verified according to SNiP. Based on the information received, a metal pipe with a wall thickness of 3–5 mm is purchased.

Its length should be the sum of the following values:

• the length of the freezing layer of the earth;
• 40–50 cm for “drowning” of piles;
• 50 cm above ground level.

To make it easier to insert the pipe, it is sharpened. Each element is installed in the ground at a distance of 1 m from each other along the perimeter of the building area. It is very important that the piles are level. To do this, each pipe is leveled using a level (ruler with liquid and a scale).

A square “hat” (625 sq. cm) should be welded onto each pile. At its ends, holes are made for the installation of a reinforced concrete frame. Everything metal elements must be covered with a solution that prevents corrosion. After that, a layer of sand, gravel is laid and rammed and everything is poured with cement mortar using strip foundation technology. After installing the foundation, you can begin to install the walls.

Walls

According to their species diversity, the walls are:

• frame;
• brick;
• from foam block;
• from a tree log.

To install frame wooden walls, it is necessary to install the base on the grillage (there must be a waterproofing film under it). After that, racks are mounted at the corners of the future bath. They are fastened with metal corners, and for greater strength, jibs are screwed to them (beams standing at an angle of 45º).

wooden beam installed every half a meter along the entire perimeter with obligatory oblique struts. Do not forget about door and window openings that do not need to be blocked. Between themselves, the vertical beams are fastened horizontally along one line. After the frame of the walls is ready, they can be sheathed. But before that, all the wood is covered with impregnation from decay and mold (black mold is especially terrible).

Next, a heater, a hydro-barrier film and a facing material are laid. If brick was chosen for the construction of walls, then it is better to take red. It has the most suitable properties - it does not "pull out" heat, as white brick does.

As a rule, the wall is made with two layers of bricks. The beginning of work is carried out from the corners, since the level will be set from them. The layer of bonding cement should not exceed 2 cm. For the convenience of masonry, the masters advise pulling the fishing line as a level. A reinforced concrete lintel is laid in place of the future window and door. Next, the walls are built up to the required height.

The construction of walls from the foam block is carried out in the same way as for bricks. The only difference is that every 4 rows you need to lay metal mesh. It will give greater rigidity and strength to the wall.

The most interesting, from the point of view of work, will be the installation of walls from a log house. It is very important that all trunks have the same diameter (a small error of 1-3 cm is allowed). Before installation, each of them is examined for defects (knots, bark remain), and is also treated with an antiseptic. Further, “holes” of 1 radius are made on each element. At the very first trunks, which are placed at the base, one side is made straight so that they do not “roll”. The next beam fits like a puzzle. In the corners they make a rope binding, starting from the floor itself, and all the joints between the bars are laid with a heater in the form of a tape.

Roof

Following the instructions for building a bath, the next step after installing the walls will be the installation of the roof. This process will not take much effort and time.

There are 3 large groups of roofs:

• flat;
• lean-to;
• gable.

The remaining species are varieties of type groups. Professionals advise to install shed roof for small baths. If the building is of impressive size, then the functional side of the roof is already selected here (for example, the 2nd floor for a recreation area, made from an attic).

If the walls are built of brick, the first layer (before laying the beams) will be a layer of roofing material as a waterproofing. Further mounted wooden frame along the perimeter of the walls with anchors. It will serve as a support for all further structures that make up the "backbone" of the roof. A wooden crate of the selected shape is made on top. A heater is “inserted” into it and a vapor barrier sheet is necessarily placed. After these works are completed, you can proceed to the external and internal cladding. Inside, it is better to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard or prepared boards.

Floor

The floors in the bath should be given due attention, as a person has direct and frequent contact with them.

Like walls, floors come in 3 types:

• wooden;
• brick;
• concrete.

Concrete

Brick is undesirable as a floor because of its physical properties(small heat transfer). It gets very hot and can cause serious burns to the feet. The most commonly used, improvised and durable material is concrete. But it should be understood that such a floor is very cold and requires an additional layer of insulation on top.

Installing this option is very simple.

• First, sand is poured onto the finished foundation (at least 15 cm). Next, crushed stone or gravel is laid in a uniform layer of 10 cm. Do not forget about the drain, under which you need to leave space and remove the pipe, and it should go into the gutter or septic tank.
• After laying the “cushion”, the primary layer of concrete is poured 5–7 cm. When it dries, you should start laying insulation (mineral wool, perlite, polystyrene) and waterproofing. A reinforced mesh is placed on top of them.
• When the grid is fixed, you can fill the floor. Masters advise taking the finished mixture, since it is difficult to make it on your own. It is recommended to start work from the corners towards the door. As soon as the floor is dry, it is necessary to start laying the floor covering. It can be tiles, laminate and other materials.

Tree

The most practical and comfortable floors for a bath are wooden. They are of two types.

• Passing water through themselves into the drain hole (trellised or leaking). This is the simplest and cheap option floors. They do not require insulation material to install. They are made in the same way as a regular floor, only they leave a gap between the floor boards and the floor with a drain hole of 5–10 cm. For this, an additional frame is installed, on which it is mounted wood flooring. The most important thing is to qualitatively process the wood from decay and dampness. As a rule, such a floor is made in the steam room itself.

• Stationary floors (not leaking). Usually they are made in the dressing room or rest room, but they can also be done in the steam room. To begin with, a drainage system is made so that there is a full drain of water. Next, an identical preparation of the floor is done, as in the variant with concrete. Then a waterproofing insulation is laid, and a fine wooden floor is placed on top of it. It is very important to coat all cracks and joints with sealant.

Wiring

It should be noted right away that only the person who has knowledge and skills in the field of electrics can do the wiring on his own. It will be very difficult for a beginner in this matter, even if he follows the step-by-step instructions.

Installation of electrical wiring must be carried out in a strict and clear sequence.

• Grounding of all metal structures, housings electrical appliances or gaskets to protect yourself and people from electric shock.
• Connecting the power cable. In rooms where there is no contact with water, it is laid in special plastic boxes. Where there is water or steam, it is laid in PVC pipes.
• Cable routing in rooms with no access to water. From junction box the wire is laid along the same plastic gutters. Next in the wall is done through hole, where in another room there will be a lamp, and joins it. It also connects to a switch. A metal sleeve must be inserted into the passage for the wire in the wall and filled with a non-burning compound.

• Connecting electricity to the steam room. It is worth noting that it is strictly forbidden to find a junction box and switches inside it. It is recommended to use low-voltage lighting fixtures in this room. Also there it is necessary to lower the voltage of the flow of electricity, for this they use step-down transformers. The cable that will be led into the steam room through a hole in the wall must be heat-resistant. A hole in the wall is processed in the same way as above. It is very important to mark all the cores in the junction box, otherwise it will be difficult to find the cause if the power supply breaks.

• Installing sockets. Their installation is carried out in a similar way. Most importantly, any outlet should be at least 60 cm from the sink and shower. Also, each of them must have a protective plastic cover which keeps them protected from moisture.

When connecting electrical wiring to the bath, you should select a cable according to the equipment to be installed, it is necessary to take into account its power and electricity consumption. All work must be carried out in rubber shoes, dry room and rubber gloves.

Finishing work

Today it is very profitable to do the finishing work yourself. If you order this service in a company, you can get a fairly large amount. Finishing work is a complex of construction activities aimed at the external and internal improvement of the building. The material is selected in advance. His choice should be approached very seriously and responsibly, as under the influence of heat and water, he can emit odors or change shape.

Masters advise doing work in parallel, and not in parts (first the facade, then the steam room, and so on). But there must be a certain sequence. First, the ceiling is finished, then the walls, and then the floor. At the time of the finishing repair windows and a door (at least a rough one) should already be inserted.

Internal (as well as external) finishing is carried out in a number of stages that must be observed.

• All purchased material must be acclimatized. For example, if a tree is chosen for work, then it needs to lie down for several days indoors.
• Installation of the frame on which the cladding will be applied.
• Heater pad.
• Waterproofing.
• Installation of panels (wood, lining and others).

Similar work is carried out from the outside.

External design

The external decor of the bath is just as important as the internal one. It is always nice when the house and the steam room built nearby are in harmony with each other, creating a single style of the site.

How and from what to make the outer skin of the bath depends on such factors:

• General style. The harmony and combination of buildings will always please the owner;
• Sheathing must perform certain functions: protection from weather conditions, insulation of internal heat, containment of cold air currents.

The walls of a classic Russian bath are usually made according to old traditions - solid logs. This is truly one of the coziest and most pleasant designs. Such walls do not need additional finishing, but sometimes a rope rope is laid along the seams, which is soaked in resin.

To date, there is a large selection of material that can beautifully and quickly decorate the facade of the bath. It can be lining, siding (metal, plastic), fiber cement panels and others.

The most common type of cladding is panel siding. It is recommended to choose vinyl or wood. They are most suitable for the theme of the bath. They must be mounted on a specially installed crate made of timber with laid layers of insulation. Sometimes it is attached with a metal profile. Then it is installed in a circle butt to joint.

The second most popular material for exterior design is lining. It is convenient in that it has slats of various widths (they can be selected for any building), which can be made of plastic, MDF or wood. The latter option is chosen most often. The most important thing is that all boards are well treated with a special solution that protects the material from dampness and decay. Lining made of plastic (vinyl) will also last a long time, but it fades quite quickly due to direct sunlight. But its plus is that it is not afraid of moisture and sudden changes in temperature. The lining is installed in the same way as the siding panels.

If the bath is built of brick, but you want it to look like a wooden one, then in this case you can make a cladding from a block house. This is a finishing lumber that resembles eurolining. It is made using a special technology - 4 boards are cut in a circle from a round tree trunk. The result is boards that are perfectly even and flat on one side, and convex-semicircular on the other. With their help, it is easy to create an imitation of a house built from a log house.

Interior Design

Since childhood, the image of a simple Russian bath has been embedded in the head of every person. As a rule, the interior of this room is entirely made of natural wood (alder, linden), there are wooden chairs with forged legs at the same table, home-made new brooms made of birch or oak hang on the walls, and most importantly, there is a smell of wood resin, steamed leaves, soap.

To preserve the atmosphere of a real traditional Russian bath, it is best to purchase wooden furniture.(table, chairs, benches). It is very beautiful when it has carved elements. Homemade knitted or woven bedding is sometimes placed on the seats. They are made with bright ornaments to complement the room with comfort and joy.

It is advisable not to lay a carpet on the floor in the dressing room. It will breed fungus and mold due to high humidity. It is best to use ordinary tiles or wooden planks treated with a special solution. Shelves on the walls will not be superfluous. They are also made from wood. It will perfectly accommodate mugs for beer, a teapot or beautiful brownie figurines. It all depends on the imagination of the owner.

In the steam room, too, should be comfortable. Usually, lighting with a birch bark lampshade is placed in the corners, and forged hooks on the walls that hold ladles and buckets. Buckets can also be in ethnic style. They have carved handles or a metal rim in the middle. On the upper rim of the ceiling is very often installed decorative panel from wood. Ethnic ornament, animals, bathing process and so on are carved on it.

A dressing room or a rest room is also filled with accessories. They are often made on their own, searched for at flea markets or folk fairs. It is easy to find wooden spoons, bast shoes, carved figures of brownies, paintings on birch bark and other accessories there. With the help of them it is easy to add comfort and warmth to this room.

An integral part of the interior of the Russian bath is the smell. Thanks to him, a person relaxes as much as possible and rests entirely (soul and body). Each room has its own scent. In the steam room, it is the aroma of steamed oak or birch brooms. It’s good to put an aroma lamp in a change house, and change it every time to suit your mood.

Style

In the XXI century there is a huge variety of baths. Their main difference lies in the temperature of exposure to the human body, as well as the quantity and quality of steam in the room itself (steam room).

• Russian sauna. Steam heating temperature - 40º–75º, humidity about 60%. Thanks to such conditions, the human body warms up qualitatively and deeply, and a high level of humidity helps to quickly open the pores and start sweating. The result is high-quality skin cleansing.

• Hamam (Turkish bath). Here the temperature is slightly lower - 35º-60º, and the humidity is about 85-100%. The conditions in this steam room are more gentle. Thanks to this, you can spend quite a lot of time here, do various kinds of cosmetic procedures(massage, peeling and other procedures). The body warms up gradually, and the skin is constantly moist. Thus, “opening” and steaming of the deep layers of the skin is performed.

• Finnish bath. The difference between such a steam room is that rather high temperatures are used here (120º-150º), and the humidity level is very low (10-15%). In this regard, going to such a bath has a number of contraindications and conditions for staying in it. It is not uncommon for a person's skin to be severely dried out, or burns were received. But at the same time, the body warms up and relaxes very well.

• Japanese water bath. This type of steam room is very specific. A person sits in a barrel of water that heats up to 60º. The skin warms up and steams well, but it does not breathe under water. Due to this, profuse sweating occurs, toxins and toxins are removed from the skin.

How to choose a boiler?

The heart of any bath or any steam room is a heating boiler or stove. Without it, in principle, the functioning of this room cannot be carried out. The most important thing is that the heating boiler can be heated to a sufficient temperature, and therefore have a good heat output. In addition, it is necessary that a person can regulate the level of heating with tangible intervals in temperature. All these parameters depend on the material from which the boiler is made, as well as on the competent selection of power and size of the steam room.

Boilers for baths are made of metal. As a rule, this is ordinary or specially treated steel. In more expensive models, its thickness can be 1–1.5 cm. During long-term operation In such furnaces, so-called "metal fatigue" can occur. This phenomenon is manifested in a slight deformation of the form. Because of this, the door for filling the fuel may begin to jam, or the welding seams may “spread”. For this reason, masters recommend using cast iron boilers. They are much stronger and have a longer service life.

The main function of the boiler is to heat the room as quickly as possible to the required temperature. This ability in many ways elevates him above the usual brick stove. In turn, metal furnaces can be conventional or long burning. It is better to choose the second option, since such a boiler cools down much more slowly and keeps heat for a long time, and will also save on fuel.

When choosing a stove for a steam room, it is necessary to take into account its design features and human comfort. Each boiler has a door where firewood or coal is placed. In some models, it is located inside the steam room. On the one hand, this is convenient, since there is no need to leave the room to add temperature. But at the same time, the steam room is always humid, and wood or coal is damp from this. It turns out that first the fuel is dried in the oven, and only then it gives the desired temperature. Plus, from firewood and coal, chips and debris will accumulate, which can injure steamed tender feet.

The boiler must have a stove. Medium-sized stones are placed there (it can be pebbles brought from the sea). Since they lie on hot metal, they also warm up. During the bathing procedure, water is poured there, and steam is generated, which is so necessary in the steam room.

The heater can be on top of the boiler or located on the side. The side option is better, as the water only hits the rocks. Such steam is considered softer and more correct. Ideally, when this design (reminiscent of a forged lattice bucket) does not touch the walls of the boiler. This is due to the fact that the stone keeps the temperature for a long time, therefore it can deform the adjacent wall of the heater, thereby reducing the life of the boiler.

Most models have a special container where water is heated. It is scooped up with a ladle and poured on stones to add heat to the room. It can be located on either side of the boiler, but it is best if it is hung on a pipe (chimney). So the water will not boil, but it will always be warm. Plus, the risk of scalding a part of the body is reduced.

Particular attention should be paid to the weight and dimensions of the boiler. If the steam room is large, then it should correspond to the size of the room. If the floor is not prepared in advance, then it can simply collapse under its weight. Usually, the future place for the boiler is poured with concrete during the construction of the foundation. When the stove is small, it can be installed directly on the floor, but it is better to lay a layer of bricks, as the wood dries and deforms from high temperatures.

The above are the main reasons why part of the heat leaves the boiler. If you clearly know these data, then the calculations will be more accurate and correct. Then all this information is substituted into the formula. By itself, it is very large, and without knowledge in the field of physics and mathematics, it will be difficult to calculate the correct answer. It is best to come with known data to a specialist. Usually in any store specializing in boilers and heating systems, there is always such a person.

The most important thing when choosing a boiler is not to focus on the price, but on the quality and characteristics of the product. Expensive doesn't mean good. It is worth knowing that if almost any part in the boiler breaks down, you will have to change it entirely.

Even an experienced master in the field of construction and repair will not be easy to build a bath absolutely correctly. As in any other business, it has its own nuances and subtleties of the work, and they can only be learned from a person who is professionally engaged in this business.

The first thing that the masters advise is that the construction of a bath is best done in a dry and warm period of the year. This is due to the fact that all solutions, putties and impregnations must dry completely. Otherwise, there is a risk of installing poorly processed wood, which will last only half the time.

Before starting construction, it is imperative to create a detailed project of the future bath. It should indicate the exact dimensions, the layout of the pipes for the drain and water inlet. For electrical wiring, it is better to make a separate drawing. Based on the plan, it will be easier to calculate the amount required material, as well as a novice builder will immediately understand what work he cannot do without the additional help of professionals. He will be able to budget for the cost of support work from outside.

If you want to build a comfortable and roomy bath, and there is not much space on the site, then it can be made as an extension to the house. Thus, it will be possible to save on the “4th wall” and space.

In order for the bath to serve for a long time, the masters advise airing it as often as possible. As a result, wood and metal coatings will dry and not be exposed to the formation of mold and fungus.

Beautiful examples

• This example shows that even a small bath can be beautiful and comfortable. There is a small steam room, and you can plunge into the cold water from the heat outside. In the summer, a table and chairs are easily placed nearby, where it will be pleasant to sit, drink tea under the moon and stars.
• Shown here is a spacious steam room where you can easily fit friendly company. Due to such dimensions, there is a place for a person to lie down to his full height and be steamed with a bath broom, while other vacationers can sit quietly and relax.

How beneficial the bath is, you don’t have to paint for a long time. And not only for physical and mental health. To have a bathhouse on the site is to gain prestige and respect for neighbors. And the opportunity to invite to take a steam bath useful person will bring direct benefits. Let's be realistic, a lot of important issues are being decided in the bathhouse, and a document is already being signed at the meeting table. There is no need to look for corruption schemes here: after a bath, it brightens in the head, the unnecessary husks are obscured, and the essence of the matter comes to the eyes. Villains, by the way, do not appoint a “shooter” in the bathhouse, the conscience wakes up there.

This article is devoted to the question of how to build a bath with your own hands. Who said that only the powerful of this world have the right to a complete bathing good? But why, you ask, build yourself? The building seems to be unpretentious, in demand. Maybe it's better to order a turnkey?

Demand is everything. In combination with a small circumstance: a bath is not an object of prime necessity or vital. Hence, the contractor's cheat is limited only by the contents of the customer's pocket, as well as for luxury goods. What builders use - the market is the market, they also need to live, and they want better.

Take a look at fig. The bathhouse on the left will cost about $8,000 on a turn-key basis, and the one on the right will cost $23,000-25,000. Impressive? We will modestly keep silent about 2-3-storey baths with pools, billiard rooms, banquet rooms and massage rooms. What if you build it yourself? DIY construction baths for 2 compartments 3x4 m from a bar (this is the one on the left) will cost about $ 1800, and 4x6 m log from 3 compartments somewhere in $ 4000-5000. It is impressive, but the difference is not only many times, but also fundamental: if the turnkey amounts do not fit into the average budget, then self-construction is already feasible without an unaffordable consumer loan, because. a mortgage with a lower rate for a bath will not be given now.

The purpose of this article, first of all, is to show that the devil is not as terrible as he is painted. A bath is a serious building, it must meet certain requirements. And the emphasis in the following is on how to satisfy them without mastering complex technologies and without spending excessively. If you know how to cut the board evenly, drill a hole directly, drive in a nail without bending and, after reading the following, believe that building a bath is within your power and means, we will consider our task completed. Therefore, the material is built for a more complete coverage of key points, but due attention is also paid to the features of the technology for building baths from various materials.

Russian or sauna?

The Finns themselves, and doctors too, admit that the Russian bath is superior to the Finnish one. In a Russian bath, you can create perfectly dry steam, like in a sauna, but you won’t be able to “burn” a vigorous steam in the last one. But the sauna has a valuable advantage - it is not very demanding on the design of the bath room with a heat source. A compact electric sauna the size of a wardrobe can be placed in a city apartment, and nothing, there is normal steam there. But the Russian requires a separate bath building and a stove for it. Therefore, further we will talk about the Russian bath, and we will leave the saunas for another occasion.

Ancestor

The original Russian bath consists of 2 sections: a dressing room and a steam room, see fig. on right; sizes - from 2.3x4 to 5x6 m. The fashion for such baths is now being revived, they are called wild baths. Indispensable features of the "wild" Russian bath:

• The foundation is not deepened from natural (also wild) boulders, without a plinth.
• The structure is a log house made of selectively chopped wild logs, i.e. not undergone any technical treatment, except for debarking and drying.
• Construction - without a single nail.
• Caulker - only moss and tow.
• The ceiling is flat (see below).
• Insulation of the floor and ceiling - moss and peat.
• Waterproofing - resin or shoe var.
• Roof - shingle or turf.
• The oven is brick.

It is not difficult to guess what these archaisms are worth in our time. Turnkey wild bath for less than 1 million rubles. - marvel. In addition, it is a fire hazard; peat, moss and wood not impregnated with flame retardants are combustible materials. But then we will see how to build a safe bathhouse on our own cheaper and simpler, not inferior to the original one. Help, first modern materials and technology; in addition to the traditional tree, unexpected solutions are possible here. Secondly, in the old days, bath stoves were built of brick only for lack of suitable metal ones. In fact, a stainless steel stove with an afterburner, an air convector and a properly arranged sauna heater is better in every way. So, to business. The action plan is:

1. Reconnaissance with surveys - we look at whether it is possible to put a bathhouse on the site, where exactly, what size and layout;
2. The choice of material for construction;
3. Project design and approval;
4. Construction and equipment, from foundation and drain to furnace installation.

Project

The project should be delayed immediately. The procedure for its approval is the same as for other non-residential buildings. However, it is not recommended to start a self-construction and legitimize it later. A bath is not an essential building. If, after its construction, harmful neighbors complained like: “But we have smelly carrots from the garden, how they built a bathhouse!”, Then it will be very problematic and expensive to prove your point. On the other hand, for the same reasons (non-residential, not vital), the dreary walking through the authorities is simplified and facilitated. Based on this, 3 options are possible:

• Order a turnkey project from local designers, i.e. already approved and tied to a place, it will cost up to 5,000 rubles for a small bath. + state duties and fees;
• Designing it yourself is undesirable, not being a builder, you will get confused, and arrogant amateurs are not favored in the bodies;
• Download from the Internet a ready-made sketch, i.e. not tied to the terrain, the project, and bind it to yourself yourself.

The last option is the best if you are not afraid to sit under the cabinets for 5,000 savings. He has, so to speak, a sub-option - to give the downloaded sketch to the designers for binding and design. In this case, the savings are halved or tripled, but walking is for their soul, and it is there like a fish in water. All you have to do is choose a suitable building, estimate its location, make a copy from the homeownership plan and show the designer where the bathhouse will be. However, you should not download the first beautiful 3D picture you like with some schemes, you need to check that the bath project contains at least the following sheets:

1. A floor plan with the necessary sections and an explication (technical description) of the premises, like the one in fig. below;
2. A summary sheet of the required materials, and then keep checks for them, so that in which case you can show that it was not built from stolen goods;
3. Recommended type of foundation and its plan.

An important point in a building permit is the consent of the neighbors. This is not an IOU, other laws apply here. A simple piece of paper with a signature as an argument will not work, but if it and other sheets have the stamp “Approved” and a visa, then the conversation with that very neighbor is short: “Do you see the seal on your squiggle? Yes? So you went to your garden to pick carrots.

And one more little remark. It is not necessary to count the nails individually and measure out where to beat according to the project. Builders are well aware that deviation from the project is far from the same as squatter construction. Therefore, having an approved project, more or less experienced developers are building, as long as it looks like it, and then suddenly something will settle down. The number of storeys, the dimensions in the plan, the location of the load-bearing walls (there are already 4 of them in a small bath), the material from which it is built - wood like wood, brick like brick - and the foundation, its type and material should match. The rest, if we are talking about a bath, will no longer be a violation, but a deviation from the project, which can be solved. Any foreman on this topic will tell such stories - you will marvel and laugh.

Note: the question may arise - what kind of liberalism to deviations? The point is in mother earth, they are building something on it, and it is still impossible to predict exactly how it will behave. Therefore, hard-working builders are given free rein so that at their own risk they can decide on the spot, according to the circumstances, how to build it so that it stands.

Location, dimensions, layout

The requirements for the location of the bath on the site are shown in Fig. on right. Of these, when approving, they especially strictly look at the distances to the source of water supply, the house, and the drain from the borders with neighbors. They should be adhered to with a margin, and the priority of water supply is the highest. If, for example, according to local conditions, it is necessary to take a distance from a well or well from 30 m to the nearest sources of pollution (and the bath belongs to these), then we take this or another large value. The same applies to the distances to the neighbors, carrots can really stink from the bath drain.

Other requirements are flexible enough based on local conditions. For example, the distance to the house is taken so that seepage from the bath drain does not wash away the foundation. If the bath is lower on the slope, and the underground runoff is directed from the house to it, then you can keep within 5-7 m, then only according to the results of on-site surveys.

A lot of "creaking" when approving bath projects is caused by the orientation of the entrance not to the south. There is already a medical reason: all of a sudden, the steamed one will go out into the cutting north wind, not for long and before pneumonia. But, say, in Ciscaucasia, the most evil wind in winter is just the south, the so-called. similar to the mountains, and in the wind rose in the north there is a dip, so in this case the orientation of the entrance to the bathhouse can be the opposite of the typical one. Well, it doesn't matter where the window looks. If you want to admire the hatch of the sewage pit when washing - your business.

On a normal personal plot the very possibility of building a bath can be decided by a meter and a half of its size. In such a case, we give informal area standards for 1 wash: 1.5 sq. m of a dressing room and 1 sq. m washing (shower). That is, a fairly comfortable home bath is possible in sizes from 3x4 m. Examples of the layouts of such baths are shown in fig. below, with a steam room separate and combined with a washing room. Their peculiarity is that the entrance door can be on any of the walls of the dressing room, which facilitates the location of the bath on the site.

On the steam room should linger especially. The fact is that the general state of health of modern citizens often simply does not allow them to bathe. In this case, you need a bath of 3 compartments with a separate steam room. In 3x4 m, such a layout can be laid, on the right in fig. with plans, but then there is the problem of heating the shower in cold weather. Let the shower warm up, wasting hot water it is irrational, there is so little of it in the water heater of the stove, and there is no longer any place for a separate stove in the shower room.

A way out can be found by departing from bath-planning traditions, especially if the area available for construction allows you to increase its size. For example, in fig. - a scheme of a bath from 3x5 to 4x6 m with a small dressing room, in fact, a dressing room.

A large washing room is heated either by a separate stove (marked ?; a simple home-made potbelly stove or something like that will fit here), or by air flow from a part of the convector of a modern sauna stove in a steam room. In the latter case, 2 solutions are possible: either non-combustible partitions and part of the air convector goes into the washing room, as in the figure, or cold air intake above the floor of the washing room and supply of heated air under the ceiling using tin boxes or metal corrugations. Due to the presence of a vestibule, the general entrance can be oriented in any way, and for those who like to get hot, plunge into fresh snow or a pool in the steam room, there is a separate exit.

Note: about the second sign? in fig. and drain with drain, see below.

materials

The choice of material for the construction of a bath is primarily due to the physical processes in it. More precisely, our ancestors, based on the available and medical and hygienic requirements, understood at that time intuitively, but correctly, came up with the design of the bath building. Therefore, it turned out to be quite conservative and tightly tied to the tree. Wooden buildings require a very high skill and long technological breaks for shrinkage and self-shrinkage if inexpensive timber is used. It is possible to find a replacement for wood for a bath, for example. the foam blocks considered further or wood concrete, or sawdust concrete. Therefore, before choosing a material, let's see what kind of physics operates in the bath.

Bath physics

The first is that the bathhouse is not constantly heated, the heated one warms up very much, and when washed it becomes damp. Secondly, during heating, the sauna stove must first give a powerful stream of thermal (IR, infrared) radiation, which will warm the walls and be absorbed by them, and a little later - a strong stream of heated air, giving a uniform temperature in the steam room. At the time of washing, the furnace firebox is weakened so that those who wash it do not burn its directional IR. People in the IR bath from heated walls and the heat of the air should gently and evenly envelop; this, in addition to air far from being saturated with moisture, is an indispensable condition for light steam.

The lightness or heaviness of the bath is not so strongly related to the temperature. Steam at 45 degrees can be heavy, and at 70 - light. The portability and benefits of a bath for people of different, as they say, constitutions are expressed by a parameter that can be called the intensity of exposure to steam; among the people, it has long been known as the "vigorousness" of the bath. Also, the classification of baths on this basis has long been established:

• Lightweight, for women and children- from a linden forest, the heat capacity of the walls is small, the IR from them quickly “exhales” and the washable ones warm up more with air.
• Plain, or condo- traditionally from coniferous forest. Heating IR from the walls and air is approximately equal, depending on the mode of the furnace, it is suitable for almost everyone. It can be built from any materials suitable for a bath.
• Vigorous- from thick oak logs. Thanks to a long and powerful IR from walls with a large heat capacity, at only 50 in a steam room, one wiggle with a broom makes its way, as they say, even the bones are playing. But you can withstand vigorous steam only with iron health. In general, a vigorous bath is heroic, after it, figuratively speaking, it is just right to throw trucks, grabbing the car by the hitch.

Light baths were built by the rich more for their wives, daughters and other women dear to them: a light bath has a beneficial effect on women Health and allows you to maintain beauty for a long time; both sexes adds sexual activity. Dear Russian cocottes of the past, without fail, before accepting, let their visitors through a light bath, long before the Russian word for their profession became obscene.

However, linden timber was expensive even in the old days. Now all centuries-old linden forests are under protection, there is no harvesting of commercial linden wood. However, they are close in properties to a light linden foam block and frame bath, which will be described in more detail below. They are the cheapest and easiest to build. But riding after a light bath in the snow or floundering in an ice hole is strictly contraindicated. Even before leaving it outside, you need to cool down in a warm dressing room, and then, dressed warmly, quickly slip into the house.

A vigorous bath, on the contrary, is very expensive and complicated, because. it can only be built from logs of the highest standard. Longitudinal hollows between log crowns act as traps for the initial IR furnace, driving heat into the walls; timber walls they absorb IR far less greedily. The same applies to any log baths, so an “almost vigorous” bath can be built from a pine log with a diameter of 200 mm or more. We will continue to deal mainly with “normal” condo baths, as the most versatile and affordable.

Selection and rejection

The best material for a bath is wood, because. under him, she was created. We will talk about foam blocks and other suitable materials later when describing baths from them, because. they go into business immediately without rejection. This cannot be said about wood: one that is quite suitable for a home may not last long in a bath due to the specific conditions described above.

Note: a brick bath is inferior to a wooden one in all respects, except for one - large, from 70-100 sq. m in plan, a brick bath building will be cheaper than a wooden one, and its bathing qualities with such a large volume of the building will become acceptable. Therefore, brick baths were built and are being built mainly large public ones.

The best tree for a bath is larch, and for a vigorous bath - bog oak, but both are expensive. Most often, baths are built from pine or spruce wood after preliminary rejection of lumber. The first thing you should pay attention to is the complete absence of cracks (pos. 1 in the figure), then wormholes, pos. 2 and blue, blackness, etc. signs of decay, paragraphs. 2 and 3. Blueness usually accompanies wormholes (pos. 2), but can also appear as individual spots, pos. 3. The third sign of unconditional culling of this piece is falling knots. If the forest is conditioned, the selection criteria come into force.

Tar and dry wood

Coniferous timber, especially pine, has 2 varieties - tar and dry chips. The second is the usual timber, cut into quarters. The first is impregnated with resin, it smells strongly of it, if you run your finger over the saw cut, it sticks and gets dirty. Smolka is expensive. trees are cut down selectively during sap flow, which is by no means useful for the forest as a whole. Nevertheless, when building a bath from logs or timber, it is worth spending money on pitch for 2-3 lower crowns: it does not rot at all, but under the influence of moisture it turns to stone, turning into a kind of bog oak. For a frame bath, it is also advisable to take a resin bar for the lower strapping (bearing belt). And one more thing: on the rough floor of any bath, it is very, very desirable to purchase much less expensive semi-finished products and waste sawing tar with wane, first of all - the cheapest slab, see fig. You will have to sweat more, debarking and adjusting, but the floor will come out eternal and inexpensive.

Note: still in some places predatory logging is still practiced, when trees are cut quarterly all year round. This is beneficial for the local builders of baths - tar can be taken directly from the timber exchange cheaper than then dry chips from the distributor's warehouse. But for nature, such an approach is nowhere worse, and you need to be able to evaluate raw wood for warping during drying, see below, about the timber.

Impregnation

All lumber for the construction of a bath must be impregnated with antiseptics, biocides and fire retardants. In addition to tar, it doesn’t rot anyway, it won’t accept any impregnation, and when it hardens, it will become very poorly flammable. Impregnations for wood are also sold separately, i.e., if it works out cheaper, then you can buy inexpensive untreated wood and process it yourself.

Wood impregnations are made from refined mineral oils and/or silicone. You can find recommendations to replace them with working off or fresh engine oil, but it’s not necessary. Engine oils contain additives that are useful to machines, not people. In the bath, they will inevitably get into the air and soak you through steamed skin.

logs

Raw, i.e. wild logs are rarely sold now - it is more profitable to dissolve them into measured material, and the waste will go into business, for pulp, etc. There are firms that sell wild wood, but the prices are selected - my respect. Therefore, all of a sudden, after reading the following, you intend to build a log bath, then you will have to buy rounded logs.

The first selection criterion is that the log must be whole and chamber dried; it is a very expensive material. Glued imitations, pos. 1 in the figure, they will perfectly go to a residential building, but not to a bathhouse, because. due to different warping of the lamellas (fragments from which the log is glued) in bath operating conditions they will soon split and rot with any impregnation.

The second point is cracks. T. naz. healthy radial cracks, pos. 2, in the log cabins of residential buildings are quite acceptable, but in the bath they will become collectors of condensate with everything that follows; there are no natural air-drying logs without them, therefore, as mentioned above, only chamber logs are suitable. For the same reason, the log profile should not have recesses facing upwards, pos. 3. From logs of the Finnish profile and any of its modifications, excellent houses are obtained, but baths are not built from them.

The log for the bath should be with the usual so-called. moon groove, pos. 4 facing down. To do this, during construction, you need to choose a suitable cutting scheme, see below. The best sizes for a bath are 190 or 210, marked in fig. If a “more vigorous” bath is being built from pine logs, then, in addition to the increased diameter, you need to choose logs with a dark core and light sapwood, on the right in Fig. Logs with dark and light belts of growth rings will randomly go to a regular bath.

Note: if the “vigorousness” of the bath does not matter much, then logs can be taken with slightly different diameters. When cutting into the oblo (this best way for a small bath, see below) from different-sized logs, a completely suitable frame is obtained, see fig. left.

bar

A log bath will cost much cheaper than a log bath and in appearance it fits perfectly into a suburban residential development, see fig. The cheapest and easiest way to build it is from an ordinary clean-cut timber (rectangular in cross section). The criteria for its rejection are the same as for logs, but a check for evenness is added.

It seems that a simple chamber-drying beam is not currently on sale at all - it is unprofitable. And the air-drying beam is all warped to one degree or another. In general, this is not scary, in the construction of a log house they always provide for a technological break for shrinkage and the tree's own shrinkage. During it, the bars will lie down to each other and cement, as they say, get used to the caulking with an almost solid array.

However, the shrinkage of the tree is not unlimited, and if the beam was dried incorrectly, it may turn out to be excessively warped, and the frame from it will remain with cracks. There are 2 options for purchasing: either from a trusted supplier according to the live recommendations of reliable people, or with an inspection of the stack in the warehouse by an invited specialist - a carpenter, furniture maker, forestry engineer, etc. unfortunately not possible.

Beam for the construction of a bath "under the log"

It is very attractive, but requires especially careful rejection of the tree, the construction of a log bath from a three-edged beam with a wane (pos. 1 in the figure on the right) or a 2-edged one, it is also a semi-edged sleeper, pos. 2.

These are semi-finished products, i.e. are inexpensive. Cutting them is not much more difficult than a simple bar and may well be done by a non-carpenter. But it is possible to build a bathhouse from such a bar that looks very similar to a “cool” log bathhouse, and in terms of properties - with an intensive firebox, it is close to vigorous.

As for the profiled timber, it is, firstly, expensive. Then, glued laminated timber should not be allowed into the bath, for the same reasons as imitation of a log, pos. 2 in fig. And a solid chamber beam is even more expensive, and only one selected entirely from the core (pos. 1) or sapwood will go to the bath. If both of them are immediately visible on the cut of the beam, it will split in the bathhouse structure. Finally, in the profile of the beam, as in the logs for the bath, there should not be recesses facing upwards, pos. 4. All this turns the choice into a living hell, especially since the sellers, knowing that their goods are quite good at home, do not understand such fastidiousness.

More about brick

Suddenly you want to build a brick bath, keep in mind that the brick for it is also subject to rejection. The bath needs a heavy and dark low-porous, or moderately, without warping and swelling, burnt iron ore, or clinker. A beautiful face brick of dry or semi-dry molding is unambiguously unsuitable.

Building

Well, we will assume that we have passed the difficult and responsible stage of selecting and rejecting the material. After all, the cost of it only needs time, knowledge and attention. Now - we are building a bath! Here, too, there is something to pay attention to, in addition to the usual construction work operations. In general, the sequence of building a bath is as follows:

1. Foundation;
2. Underfloor insulation and drainage equipment with a drain;
3. For frame baths - frame;
4. For them - a technological break for 2-6 months. for frame shrinkage;
5. Walls;
6. For log and timber baths - log cabin caulking;
7. For them, from air-dried materials (unprofiled timber, wild and debarked non-cylindered logs) - a technical break for 6-18 months. for shrinkage / shrinkage of the log house;
8. openings, doors, windows;
9. Ceiling;
10. Roof;
11. Interior arrangement and, mainly, the installation of the furnace.

Foundation

In the old days, baths were placed on an unburied foundation of boulders (item 1 in the figure), this made it possible to reduce the processing of logs of the lower crown to a minimum. To do this, they collected something like a lodgment or centers from wild stones, in which round logs did not roll. At the corners, large boulders with intersecting natural hollows were especially valued; those are the cornerstones. The original meaning of this term is now forgotten. A boulder foundation for a bath can be laid even today, but, alas, wild stone is now far from waste material.

Note: do not be surprised at the mention of cornerstones in the Bible and the Gospel. The now almost treeless Levant was then rich in excellent cedar trees. It was enough for buildings and fleets. What was King Solomon's palace made of? "Thanks" to the high value of the Lebanese cedar, now it is almost gone.

A full-fledged replacement for a boulder - not buried or shallow, pos. 2. The first is suitable for any wooden bath, and the second - for a foam block. In terms of complexity and laboriousness, the laying of both are available to novice builders, and at a price - the family budget is below average. There is only one drawback: it is not suitable for unreliable soils. These include:

• Medium heaving closer to strongly heaving and strongly heaving (heaving over 6-7% by volume) - fine silty sandy loam, dense loam, puffy clay, etc.
• Subsidence II category, over 5% by volume - loose loess and clayey.
• Weak, with a bearing capacity of less than 1.7 kg / sq. cm - humus, silty, peaty, loose sandy loam.

In places with a consistently positive winter and a low probability of freezing of the runoff, an excellent, simple and cheap option for a foundation for a wooden bath is a columnar, not deepened from ready-made blocks 200x200x400, pos. 3. A conscientious and attentive office city dweller, having undertaken to build, can lay it down over the weekend.

On a slope, which is very good for a drain device, and on unreliable soils, a bathhouse can be placed on a columnar foundation of asbestos-cement pipes, pos. 4. Under a wooden structure, it is approximately equal in cost and labor intensity to a tape one. Underfloor insulation in places with frosty winters increases both slightly. Under the bath of foam blocks or bricks, the heads of the pillars will have to be tied with rand beams or grillage, pos. 5, this is already a rather complicated and expensive process, especially the application of a grillage. However, for baths, you can most often get by with rand beams.

Finally, the pile-grillage foundation, pos. 6. It can be either welded metal, as in the figure, or concrete on bored piles. Both are quite complicated and expensive, and a high-quality metal pile foundation also requires special equipment.

Pile foundations are laid under buildings on soils, as they say, none: silty, peaty, weak, heavily watered; in general, "in the swamp." They don’t put a bathhouse on rotten wetness, but laying a pile foundation under it is justified in special cases.

For example, the author had a chance to take a steam bath in a vigorous bath on a steep hill above the river. A platform protruded above the pool, from which a ladder went straight into the water. From the bottom, springs were beating there - in summer the water was icy, and in winter a polynya held. Feelings - unspeakable, if you soar in paradise, then that's how it is and not otherwise. But you can build in such a place only on piles, otherwise in a year or two the earth will crawl, and the bathhouse will only gurgle or float, swaying. It is for such exclusives that the pile foundation for the bath is intended.

Wall insulation and sheathing

Before the construction of any bath on any foundation, except for boulders, it is necessary to apply double waterproofing from bitumen and roofing material, see fig. It is applied after the foundation has gained strength, except for welded metal.

If a wooden bath is to be built on a strip foundation, then before laying the 1st crown of the log house or the lower frame belt, slats 30x30 mm or 40x40 mm are laid out on the tape along the insulation, as shown in fig. left; with high-quality lumber, you can get by with thick, from 10 mm, shreds. The purpose of this crate is to prevent the wood from rotting from underneath due to capillary blockage. The remaining gap is then caulked along with the walls.

Note: in any case, no anchor bolts, etc. to attach the walls to the foundation is not needed. With thermal shocks that the structure of the bath experiences, there will be no benefit from them, except for harm.

Floor and stock

The floor and the drain of the bath are inextricably linked and therefore are considered together. Together they make up the most complex and critical structural unit of the bath, which largely determines its operational and sanitary and hygienic qualities.

In the old bathhouses, the drain went directly to the ground through a slotted floor. Now it is forbidden to dump any runoff on the ground surface, but the slatted floor of the steam room / washing room is quite appropriate, see below.

The drain from the bath can be organized scattered, through the entire surface of the floor, or point (concentrated) through the grate (ladder) in the floor. The first, as we will see below, is more difficult, but much more hygienic. Point drain is done most often if drain hole is under the floor. This saves space and the volume of earthworks, but sanitation with hygiene - by 3 with a minus. In addition, there are no drain pits that do not require cleaning and pumping out at all, and in this case, for plumbing repairs, you will need to break the floor. An additional minus is that due to the infiltration of sewage directly under the building, the bathhouse will “lead” sooner or later.

As an argument in favor of a pit under the floor, they often cite - they say, it will not freeze. And, sorry, are you heating your bathhouse all winter? If you can afford it, then why samostroy? Order a turnkey bathhouse and take a steam bath. Unfortunately, there is no reason to add "to health" since there is a hole under the floor. The way to protect any sewage pit from freezing has long been known: it is a wooden cover 30-40 cm under the revision hatch. The drain from the bath is warm and under the double cover will have time to soak into the ground before the most severe frost reaches it.

Note: sometimes they also say that a gas-tight cover should be placed on the pit under the bathhouse. pure water a curiosity in the spirit of black humor - any sealed sewer once explodes, like a poorly sterilized jar of home canned food. In the bath - mainly during washing, because. a thermal shock during heating will play the role of an initiator.

Device diffused flow from the bath, it is clear from pos. 1 fig. It is highly desirable to equip the concrete drain with a self-made water seal, pos. 2, this will ensure that the bath conforms to the toughest sanitary requirements. Concrete on the screed is taken waterproof; when self-kneading, a water-polymer emulsion is added to the water at the rate of 200 ml per 10 l, and the screed that has hardened and gained strength is treated with bituminous mastic. This should be done in the warm season, and before laying the floor, give a technical break for 5-7 days.

The bath should have a separate drain hole. The drain from the bath is large for a house sewer and volley, but much cleaner than kitchen gray, not to mention fecal from, and contains a little fat. If you run a bath drain into a properly calculated and built common one, then it will choke and the active bacteria in it will die. If you build a large and expensive septic tank based on a volley discharge, then the usual runoff will not be enough for bacteria to feed, the activated sludge will turn sour, and the sewage system will stop working again. A drain pit is dug at the rate of 50-100 liters per 1 person washing to a depth of at least 30 cm below the calculated (normative) freezing depth, provided that it is buried in the mainland (under the fertile layer) soil by at least 1.2 m. RF, these conditions are maintained when the drain is deepened by 1.6-1.8 m.

The simplest and cheapest drain pit is obtained from car tires in a clay castle, pos. 3. But sewage will inevitably stagnate in its side pockets, and such a pit will have to be disinfected much more often. Keeping in mind the future costs of antiseptics, cleaning and pumping, it turns out to be more profitable to buy a pair of (60-70) cm concrete or plastic rings for wells. These are the smallest and cheapest well rings. Their height is standard - 90 cm; 2 is just enough. With an inside diameter of 0.7 m, the volume of the pit is sufficient for 5-6 washers.

Suddenly, the pit is still under the floor (maybe there is simply no place for an external one on the site), then the bath can be used no more than once a week. In this case, the point runoff will also be cheaper, and its complex and expensive concrete catcher under the floor can be replaced with an overturned low wooden tent. Then, around the mouth of the pit, it is necessary to apply high-quality waterproofing with a removal of at least 0.5 m beyond the drainage grate contour, pos. 4. However, this is also a bad way out: water will still seep under the insulation, and what kind of biocenosis will develop there, it’s better not to think about it. At least before meals.

Floor

The floor of the bath should provide, firstly, a quick and complete flow of water, without rotting itself. Secondly, to give sufficient insulation and guarantee against drafts from below, provided that it is impossible to clog the underground with thermal insulation, you will have to limit yourself to backfilling with expanded clay. To do this, the floor of the bath is made floating, pos. 1 in Fig., i.e. unrelated to the structure of the building. Lay the floor on the logs; their ends in the log wall are inserted into the cutouts of the lower crown, pos. 2. In a log bath, the ends of the logs are connected with crossbars to form a solid lattice, and in a frame house, as in a frame house, the floor logs together in the lower belt form the main supporting frame.

The lag step is 40-60 cm. Their height is 100-120 mm for a span of up to 4 m and 150 mm for a span of 4-5 m. With a larger span, intermediate pillars or internal sections of the tape must be provided in the foundation. The lag thickness is taken approximately 1/50 of the span length, i.e. 60mm for 3m, 80mm for 4m, etc.

In the intervals between the lags, the slab is laid with the convex side up. Because slab boards taper to one end, they are laid alternately with a narrow end in one direction or the other. Between the boards leave gaps of 5 mm, the same pos. 2 in fig. This design does not interfere with the flow, improves thermal insulation to some extent, and, together with the finishing floor boards laid across the slabs, protects against drafts.

It is very, very desirable to take tar pine for logs and rough flooring from slab. To reduce the cost of the floor of the log, you can make them a 3-edged beam or a semi-edged sleeper spread along in two, see above. But then they will have to be trimmed from the side of the wane so that the base for the finishing floor is even and horizontal.

The finished floor with scattered drainage is laid from an ordinary planed clean-cut board, preferably tar, with a thickness of 40 mm or more. Reducing the cost, again, will cost extra work: you can take an unplaned and unedged pitching board, “bring it to mind” yourself on a circular saw and a jointer (the old Soviet desktop UBDS-1 and the like are very convenient for this), and lay it in the flooring the remnants of the wane down. A clean floor is laid with gaps between the boards of about 5 mm, to drain water.

To lay a floor with a point drain, first a larch or tar board with a drain grate is placed between the lags above the pit or water seal. The floor is laid without cracks, with a cutout above the grate, pos. 3 and 4. The board must be taken not grooved, but with a castle quarter, pos. 5. After a technical break for shrinkage of the structure, the joints of the boards are poured with liquid nails or rubbed with waterproof putty on wood.

Despite the high cost, complexity and laboriousness, this is far from best option. At pos. 4 it can be seen that, judging by the general condition of the floor and the lattice, the bathhouse is still new, but the floor under the bench is already slick. Apparently, the hostility of the builders to the scattered drain through the slatted floor is explained by prejudices and incomplete knowledge of the history of the Russian bath.

Walls and frame

The log bath looks, of course, chic, see fig. But we will not linger on them for a long time: these buildings are actually not for beginners. In any case, in order to build the simplest bathhouse, you will need to master 2 difficult technologies - cutting logs with a cloud with a residue, pos. And in Fig., and with a paw without a trace, pos. B-D. The latter, by the way, is technologically simpler, but requires calibrated logs, because the proportions of the marking template (pos. D) are tied to the side of the square inscribed in the diameter of the log, pos. D. In any case, the bottom of the logs of the first crown must be very accurately and evenly hung, because. a boulder foundation that can be fitted under the logs is now unrealistic.

Note: cutting into an oblo and into a simple bowl (see the figure on the right) is often considered the same work operation, because the configuration of logs ready for laying in a log house is the same. In fact, when cutting into the bowl, the notches and grooves turn up, which is unacceptable for a bath. When cutting into the oblo, the fitted logs are transferred to the log house with a flip, this complicates and slows down the assembly of the log house on the foundation.

From a bar

It is already quite possible for a beginner to build a bath from a bar: there is no need to choose curved grooves and holes in a tree. It is enough to be able to handle a saw, hammer, chisel and axe. To build a small, up to 4x5 m, bath, you need to master only 3, or only one, simple operation: cutting into half a tree or into an ocher with a remainder, or cutting without a trace into a paw (at the butt); marked in Fig. "!".

A beam from 100x100 to 250x250 mm will go to the bath. The thicker, the naturally better and more expensive. In general, "weaving" is enough south of Voronezh, 150x150 for the Moscow region, and 200x200 - north of St. Petersburg. For 1-3 lower crowns, you need to take a beam a size larger, and again, it is highly desirable, tar.

Actually, the process of assembling a log cabin without a trace of non-profile clean-cut timber (the simplest and cheapest) by cutting into the end is shown on the next. rice. First, according to the template, the ends of the bars cut to size are prepared, pos. 1. If instead of a beam there is a semi-edged sleeper (pos. 1a) that is conditioned for a bath (see above), then you can get an almost complete imitation of a log cabin.

When assembling the log house, it is necessary to prevent the lateral displacement of the beams. A log cabin is held by moon grooves, but for smooth beams, ties in the corners are not enough. There are 2 options here. First, pos. 2 - simple, but not the best, because the nails in the frame will rust. The log house is immediately knocked down tightly, and the caulked tape (see below) is applied immediately. The location and length of the nails are the same as the dowels in the trail. option. Nails are needed secret, with a fully recessed hat, or a special tool for the hammer - a hammer; it looks like a bench punch with a ground end.

According to the 2nd method, pos. 3, the bars are fastened with round deaf dowels - dowels. Calibrated pins are on sale, it is better to take oak ones. The connection of the crowns with dowels is done as follows:

• The next one is placed on the previous crown.
• Holes are drilled exactly according to the diameter of the dowels through the upper beam to half the height of the lower one.
• Remove the top crown.
• Lay caulk tape.
• Pins are inserted by piercing the caulk over the nests under them.
• Again, now for good, they lay the upper crown, putting it on the dowels.
• The procedure is repeated until the complete assembly of the frame; pins are staggered, see again pos. 3.

Note: with a span of up to 6 m, it is enough to fasten the bars at the corners, as shown in fig.

And if the beam is profiled?

One of the reasons why they came up with a profile beam is the desire to get rid of the rather laborious and additionally expensive fastening with dowels. However, this consideration is not applicable to the bath: profiles that hold each other "iron" are not suitable for a bath. And for those that will not “catch” condensate, bath temperature deformations will soon break the ridges. Therefore, the log cabin of a bath from a profiled beam still needs to be fastened together.

Caulker

Log and log cabins for the assembly of caulk. For a log, you will need solid caulking skills and a complete set of caulking tools, see fig.

It is easier to caulk a beam: you will need a crooked steel caulk - a swab, a narrow wooden straight line and a mallet, see fig. below. The bath log house is caulked in both ways shown there: when assembling the log house, it is laid between the crowns to caulk for stretched caulking, and at its end they are finally caulked into a set.

Note: the flannel is designed to push the caulk between the logs. From its name comes "to fawn" in the sense of ingratiating itself with trust, to crawl with ulterior motives in mind, in general, to crawl under the skin. If the caulking is jute (see below), and the log house is timber-framed, no flint is needed.

It is impossible to do without caulking with waterproofing, even the most modern one: caulking not only seals the seams, but “merges” with the tree into a single array and finally holds the frame together. There are no synthetics that can replace it yet.

In the old days, they were caulked with moss in a stretch, and in a set - with oiled or tarred linen tow. Now most of all they caulk with jute fiber, it is almost wood in composition and lignin content. It is better to take jute hemp in the form of a set of ribbon and cord, see fig. The tape is loose, it is easy to pierce it with a finger under the dowel. They lay the tape when assembling the log house, and then you don’t need to fawn over it; after assembling the log house, they immediately caulk it with a cord into the set.

To prevent the log house from leading, they caulk strictly in the following sequence: the deaf long side of the lower crown inside, then outside, then also opposite it. Then - the short sides of the lower crown, starting from the one where there are no openings, also first from the inside, then from the outside. In the same sequence, the remaining crowns are caulked strictly in turn from bottom to top.

The result of the beam and log

The galvanized log of chamber drying can be considered a kind of profiled timber. A bath from it and a professional beam, also chamber-drying, can be used immediately after construction, because. these materials have undergone shrinkage and shrinkage during processing; this is the undoubted advantage of "chamber" wood. The cost of 1 sq. m of a bath room made of these materials in most regions of the Russian Federation exceeds the cost of a square of living space in new buildings of the middle class.

The most expensive, complex and time-consuming, but also the most prestigious, will be a log bath. Its bath qualities exactly correspond to those of the traditional Russian bath. In terms of “steepness” and cost, a log bath is almost equivalent to a log bath, but technologically it is much simpler and can be supplied by an amateur builder of medium qualification. In terms of steam quality, a log bath can be made almost indistinguishable from a log bath.

The use of chamber profiled beams for the construction of a bathhouse can be justified if it is not possible to reject air-dried or raw material by the piece, for example, in regions where there are no own logging operations and merchants flatly refuse to sell ordinary sawn timber selectively. Otherwise, it is possible, using semi-finished products of commercial wood, to put a log bath, and it looks almost indistinguishable from a log bath.

On the whole a log or timber bath can be recommended for those who are sufficiently wealthy, he takes care of his health, keeps his physical shape, and has already built at least a country house or a barn. If you are not sure that a condo, and even more so a vigorous steam room, will do you good, then it is better to build one of the light baths described below. The same option is shown with a lack of funds and building experience: light baths are simple and inexpensive, and their steam will not hurt anyone.

technical break

After assembling and caulking the log house, it is temporarily sewn up from above with boards, plywood, cardboard, etc., and covered with a film. The film is fixed in any way so as not to be torn off by the wind. The log house is left to dry and shrink for at least six months; best - from spring or early summer to autumn next year. During this time, the tree will not only dry out and sit down, but also get used to the caulk.

Openings, doors, windows

Methods for arranging door and window openings in log baths are mainly used 2. 1st, pos. 1 and 2 in the figure, “for the lazy and uneconomical”: only 1 of its upper timber is selected in size along the width of the opening, and after a technical break, the opening is simply sawn out. However, this method is not so wasteful: trimmings can go to the shield ceiling (see below) and certainly to the internal equipment of the bath, bed, etc. after shrinkage of the frame, the edges of the future opening must be reinforced with dowels when assembling the frame, like corners.

According to the 2nd method, pos. 3, the bars are cut to size in advance, and a spike is selected at their ends extending into the opening. The disadvantage of this method is that special door and window boxes are needed, while according to the first method, simple frames made of boards will go to them. In general, it is better to make openings “in the first place” when appearance baths do not matter much, but “in a second way” - when you want “more abruptly”.

Note: from the baths of the middle-budget class, the timber ones are certainly the best. Therefore, we give in addition a video about the details of arranging a log bath:

Video: building a bath from a bar, the right device

frame

The frame bath is built as well. Immediately after the frame is assembled, rafter beams are placed, and the frame dries / shrinks already under its own roof, in the center in fig. Since the openwork structure is blown by all the winds, the technical break for drying / shrinkage is minimal. Usually the frame is assembled in the spring, in the same autumn the bath is completed and even before the cold weather they are already steaming.

The second feature is that the finishing floor is laid along with the wall sheathing from the outside, on the right in the figure, in the usual sequence from bottom to top, i.e. starting from the floor. It is not necessary to insulate the walls from the outside, as is sometimes advised. For decorative purposes, something like sheathing with siding is enough, without laying polystyrene in the cells of the crate. So it is necessary that the walls are better ventilated. But it is necessary to insulate from the inside thoroughly, as in the foam block bath described below, excluding the underlying plaster.

The frame bath turns out to be the simplest and cheapest, even cheaper than a bath from foam blocks. According to the “vigorousness” of the couple, this bath is only and only light. However, taking a steam bath in it in winter north of Moscow is very problematic: it gives off heat well, and the insulation measures used in frame houses, make steam heavy. On the whole frame bath– a typical weekend summer bath; serves particularly well as country bath combined with a utility block.

Note: there are no restrictions on the outer skin of the frame bath, therefore, imitations for timber, logs, etc. are possible.

Foam block

A foam block bath is the only type of bath structure in our time that allows you to put a light bath in any climate due to the high heat-insulating properties of the wall material. Baths made of aerated concrete can also be considered the cheapest and simplest technologically: their cost is lower than that of a timber one, by 25-30%, and even up to 50%, see below. The number of measurements and fine-tuning operations during construction for a foam block bath is several times less than for a frame bath, and it is not at all necessary to form curved surfaces in the material.

It is also important that, with a generally significant expenditure of working time, little physical effort is required when building a bath from foam blocks. You don’t need to swing a saw and an ax all the time, in general, the construction technique is set, attached, nailed. For citizens unaccustomed to physical labor, this circumstance can be decisive. And for summer residents - the fact that a technical interruption during construction is needed is minimal, for curing mortars. In a typical summer, a week is enough for this, and construction can continue next weekend. Which, working together on weekends, two or three, you can, starting in April, complete by July and still have a good steam before winter.

Foam concrete, from which foam blocks are made, is a light material, it floats in water. Therefore, on stable and well-bearing soils, the construction of a foam block bath can be further simplified and cheaper. In general, a strip foundation is recommended for a foam block bath, pos. 1 in fig. But on reliable soils, it can be replaced with a non-buried columnar of ready-made concrete blocks, as for a frame bath, and walls can be erected on a frame made of timber from 200x200 to 300x300, impregnated with an antiseptic, water repellent and covered with waterproofing, like a concrete tape.

However, the lightness and, especially, the porosity of aerated concrete set the same labor during construction; True, not hard and easy. It is especially necessary to protect the walls from getting stuck inside and out: aerated concrete dampens not only easily, but downright with pleasure, but it dries very hard and for a long time. Therefore, looking ahead, we’ll immediately say that, having covered the roof, the bathhouse must be surrounded by a ventilated facade with a gap of about 5 cm. With any other method of external insulation / insulation, the dew point entering the porous, greedily absorbing moisture wall is inevitable.

Further, when erecting walls, pos. 2, only the first 2-3 rows are laid on an ordinary cement-sand mortar, and then they switch to a special adhesive for aerated concrete, it looks like a regular masonry mortar. The lightness of the material already plays a role here: the cement masonry joint, being lightly loaded, poorly resists shear loads, and the wind can simply fill up the structure.

The most peculiarities concern internal insulation. It is produced in this order:

1. Walls with waterproof plaster (lime; a water-polymer emulsion is added to the solution water);
2. On completely dried plaster, they are painted with water-repellent paint, better than polymer facade, in last resort- iron minium, zinc or titanium white;
3. On the dried paint, waterproofing is laid with an overlap of 15 cm, securing it with horizontal slats;
4. Mats of long-staple mineral wool are laid between the rails, pos. 3;
5. Mineral insulation is sheathed with rolled foil on both sides of glass wool, also long-fiber, pos. 4 and 4a, with an overlap of 25 cm;
6. Vertical slats are stuffed over the foil insulation and the inner lining is already led along them;
7. Upon completion of the finish and installation of doors / windows, all cracks are carefully foamed, pos. 5: foam concrete does not care where it gets wet, the moisture in it spreads instantly. A cloud escaping from the steam room into the dressing room can ruin the bathhouse.

And once again, looking ahead, but not much: due to the features of the building, visible in pos. 1, the ceiling in the bath of foam blocks is made only by hemming.

Ceiling

The ceiling of the bath is made flat, hemmed or panel. The first is the original ceiling of a small Russian bath. For its construction, the well-established log cabin is sewn up with boards from above, the cracks are caulked with moss into the set from the side of the attic and filled with resin. Then truss beams are applied (see below, about the roof) and the gaps between them are covered with peat; sometimes the entire ceiling is tarred before backfilling. The floor of the attic is either laid, or not. Now, of course, it is better to caulk with jute, before installing the beams, cover the flooring with waterproofing, and insulate with long-fiber mineral wool.

The false ceiling, see fig., is suitable for any bath, because. he is stronger ceiling beams at the same time they are rafters, moreover, they are mechanically connected with the log house / structure. Shield ceiling - a combination of a flat one with a hemmed one: a shield with insulation and insulation is assembled on the ground, and then, pulling up with the whole crowd, either with a crane or a mini-excavator manipulator, they lay it on a log house. The shield ceiling is good in that it can be “blinded” from scraps, but it is only suitable for a log bath up to 4x5 m in size.

Roof

The roof for any of the described baths is suitable gable. Rafter trusses - simple triangles with one crossbar-kerchief, in the center in the figure:

The pediments are sewn up with boards; you definitely need dormer windows that open for the summer and for the duration of use + an hour and a half after it in the winter. Hanging rafters are suitable for a log bath, on the left in the figure, for the rest - a complete truss with a coupler beam, on the right there. The crate under the roof deck is sparse, with slots from 30 mm, for ventilation. The flooring itself is any, except for iron, it does not hold heat well and quickly rusts in the bath.

Arrangement

TO finishing materials for a bath, requirements, except for decorative ones - moisture resistance, hygiene, complete chemical neutrality. According to their combination, they often take a wooden lining from an array. MDF and laminate are not suitable, they will swell and become limp! The lining profile for any orientation of the boards must comply with the requirements described above: no pockets facing upwards, for example, as in fig. on right.

In the steam room, of course, you need beds. They are made 2-3 tiered, with a vertical step of 50-60 cm, even if only one person is steamed all the time. The reason is that you need the ability to choose the height of the location when hovering, depending on the general condition, so that the bath does not come out sideways.

The width of the beds is 60-80 cm; flooring - necessarily with slots of 10-20 mm, on the left in fig. The finishing floor under the beds is not laid, it will slick! The length of the boards is taken 180-200 cm for soaring in a prone position or 80-100 cm for soaring while sitting. “Economical” 150 cm polati for soaring with knees up is not the best option. Sometimes you want and need to raise your knees when soaring in prone, but if you soar all the time, your health will not benefit due to the constant outflow of blood from the legs to the heart and head.

It is better to finish the shower / washing room from upright boards, on the right in the figure, so there is less chance of decay - it is easier for water to drain from the grooves. Also in the washing room, eat there or roll from the gang, benches are needed - to sit, steamed up, do your feet without risking slipping, for children.

About partitions

Capital partitions in the bath are not needed. On the contrary, they need to be made lighter so that the heat of the oven is more likely to dissipate throughout the bath. Partitions are placed in front of internal insulation, insulation and finishing. Material - boards or wooden lining on a wooden frame; total thickness - 50-70 mm. Moisture resistant drywall, plywood, etc. they are not suitable, they will not last long in the bath.

Bake

A requirement common to all sauna stoves is an elongated furnace channel so that the furnace door can be led into the dressing room. Tradition is a tradition, but in the old days they burned most often just in baths: a person's susceptibility to carbon monoxide increases sharply with an increase in air temperature.

For a bath with a common steam-washing room, an inexpensive sauna stove without an air convector, like "Heat" and its home-made copies, is most suitable. A potbelly stove for a bath with a water heater will also go - in the smallest steam room, you can provide a length of the horizontal part of the chimney from 2 m, which will make the potbelly stove quite economical.

It is unrealistic to maintain in a small bath the distance of the furnace from the walls of 60 cm required by the PB, and special fireproof ones, as in the steam room on the previous. rice are very expensive. Therefore, the corner for the stove in the bath must, firstly, be covered with a mat of vermiculite or mineral cardboard, pos. 1 in fig. on right. The usual refractory bedding made of asbestos and steel sheet is not suitable for a bath - iron heated to 60-70 degrees can be severely burned by stepping on the foot, because. the severity of the burn depends on the amount of thermal energy transferred to the body, and the metal gives off heat well and quickly. Therefore, by the way, steam burns are so dangerous - in this case, a very large latent heat of water condensation is released.

Secondly, the walls near the furnace must be covered with refractory lining. On the same pose. 1 builders did not stint on fireclay brick for her. In physics - excellent, but, constantly moistened, fireclay will soon crumble, and the lining will have to be changed. The same high-burnt (dark) ceramic working brick that went to the top of the skin would fit to the very bottom.

A little more about the shape of the sauna stove. In a collective steam room, it is best to install a round stove, pos. 2 in the same figure, or a basket stove with a furnace part hidden in the heater. Then all the steamers will receive equal shares of health.

Unusual differences

The most vigorous of Russian baths is a dugout bath, see fig. For its construction, a dry sandy (better), sandy or loamy hillock is required. Walls, stove, chimney - from boulders or large rubble; the roof is covered with sod. A wooden lattice-frame is placed on the earthen floor, which is then thrown back against the wall so that it does not rot. Drain into the ground, which in our time is only possible furtively, but steam - Ilya Muromets would only grunt and hoot.

And here's something else - a camping mini-bath, see next. rice.

The design on the same principle is repeated by many, both in mobile and in stationary versions, see at least the video:

Video: mini-bath

But let's take a look at Fig. Doesn't this structure look like...? If you take a milky one, not translucent, on the skin? Unless the owners are prone to exhibitionism, and even then the neighbors will complain. All in all, it's worth a try.