What is the cellar for blanks made of. Do-it-yourself ground cellar: step by step instructions

Your own cellar. And those who do not have it, probably, have already thought more than once about the construction of such a room. Storage of conservation in the cellar cellar has long been practiced by people. Therefore, in this article we will tell you about how to make a cellar with your own hands without the help of builders.

Cellar Requirements

In order for the cellar (glacier, underground) to function normally for a long time, the following requirements must be applied to it:

Constantly lowered, stable air temperature. In a glacier, the temperature should be more or less constant throughout the year, whether it's summer outside or winter.
Blackout. In the basement, frequent lightening is not allowed. Glaciers are not allowed to have windows, and electric lamps can only be turned on when you visit the underground. Some foods that are in your cellar need to be kept in the dark for long-term storage.
Air humidity. It should be around 90%. This is a very important indicator, if it is very low, there is a risk that some products will be spoiled. A psychrometer is used to control air humidity. With a very low humidity, it must be increased. This is done by splashing water on the walls and scattering wet sawdust on the floor.
Constantly clean and fresh air. To ensure the ventilation of the cellar, you need to properly design the supply and exhaust ventilation. This is a very important factor that will not allow air to stagnate in the room.

Did you know? « Auerbach cellar» - one of the best wine restaurants world, which is located in Germany, Leipzig. The restaurant is slightly lowered underground, has its own wine cellar.

With the proper organization of work during the construction of this room, all of the above requirements can be easily implemented into the cellar mechanism. And then, after construction, you will only need to control the humidity and lighting.

What are the designs

Various types there are more than a dozen cellar designs. Each owner does everything in his own way. But there are long-established types of structures, which we will tell you about:

Ground storage ( storage shed). This type of construction is suitable for construction in those regions of our country where the soil has high humidity, and groundwater is very close to the surface. It is believed that such a design was invented by summer residents of St. Petersburg, whose conditions do not allow deepening very low. Ground storages go deep into no more than half a meter, and have a frame structure on top.
. This is another type of glacier, which is buried no more than half a meter underground. The design of such a cellar is quite simple and does not take up large areas on the site. Such storages are built by people who have a limited amount of finance and a small area. suburban area. In addition, such structures are built by all summer residents whose site is located in regions with a high level of ground water.
. The design of such a storage facility is very similar to that of the glacier described above. The only difference is that this structure is constructed with subsequent boning with earth. This is done to maintain the required level of humidity in the room.
Semi-deep cellar. This type of construction is the most common in our country. The depth of such an underground is about one meter, which allows it to be constructed even in moderately moist soils. The walls of such a storage facility are poured with concrete and sealed with waterproofing. The overlap is made of slab, protected by a layer of roofing material or roofing felt.
. Such structures are very well suited for those who have a very modest plot in the country. Storage can be built directly under the summer kitchen, leaving a hatch for entry. Construction robots should be carried out only with experienced people, otherwise there is a risk of a collapse of the summer kitchen.
. Repositories of such structures are extremely rare today. They have already gone down in history, although some can still be observed in individual villages and settlements. The designs of such cellars are very complex, requiring careful and accurate work. To date, there are very few craftsmen left who can build you such a glacier. And, by the way, it has a good temperature regime, constant humidity and excellent ventilation.
This structure has two entrances. It is very convenient to build a blocked glacier for several families, for example, on the border of the sections. So you can build one storage for two: for you and your neighbors. This saves space and money.
Previously, it was very common on the territory of the Yaroslavl province, and therefore received the name "Yaroslavl storage" among the people. The construction is carried out completely underground, and from above they are only covered with a bed or poles. Such a cellar is perfect for long-term storage, and.

Important! The cellar is best built in hot summers, when the groundwater level is as deep as possible.

And this is not all types of cellar designs. There are also: a cellar on a slope, a wall glacier, a Finnish glacier, a snowfield, a repository of reinforced concrete rings, a shoulder, a cellar bath, etc. But most of them are designed for the same purpose - storage of vegetables and pickles.

Where is the best place to build

Before starting construction work, it is necessary to clearly and correctly determine the location of the future glacier. You must take into account all the properties of the soil (its composition, etc.), the level of groundwater and the depth of freezing.
Many characteristics will depend on these parameters, including those that we described in the first paragraph. And also - the durability of the structure, which also directly depends not only on the quality of the building, but also on its location.

Try to choose a dry, elevated place or the side of a mountain (small hump). Such terrain will immediately alleviate the further problem of waterproofing. When building an underground storage facility, you need to clearly know at what depth groundwater occurs.

Then you need to build on these data: half of the cellar should be half a meter above the groundwater level. If the groundwater level lies at a depth of 2.5 meters, then the maximum depth of your structure should not exceed two meters.

You can check the water level different ways. The simplest of them: determining the level by the depth of water in a well nearby. If there is no well, then pits or exploratory drilling are very often used.

By the way, the exploratory drilling method immediately checks the composition of the soil. If there is a lot of sand or clay in it, then this indicates that when building a cellar, you will need to strengthen the walls more strongly. Sometimes, when examining the soil, floaters are found. The swimming pools are not amenable to draining; it is impossible to build a cellar in their place.

Did you know? One of the fans of the video game Elder Scrolls made himself a cellar-basement in the style of the above game. The construction cost him $50,000.

It is also very important to find out the type of soil before starting construction work. The selection of materials and the nature of the work performed will depend on this.

The most common soil types are sandy, sandy, loamy and clayey. To accurately determine the composition, you need to take 100 g of earth and submit it for examination to an agrochemical laboratory. But there is a way to accurately determine the type of soil without the help of chemists.
To do this, you need to take some earth and try to roll it into a thread, and then roll it into a thin ring. If the soil does not want to roll into a thread, then you are dealing with a sandy type of soil.

If the soil rolled up into a thread, but the ring does not come out of it, then it is light loam. If the ring comes out, but in some places gives out cracks, this is heavy loam, and if the ring is perfect and without cracks, it is clay-type soil.

Information about the depth of soil freezing is also very important for the future cellar. You cannot remove this data yourself, but you can easily get it from the engineering department of the administration or from the district architect.

Some types of soils with severe freezing can expand by 5-10%, and this can adversely affect your structure and cause mechanical damage to it.
It should be taken into account the fact that at a depth of more than three meters, the soil remains at a constant temperature (4-10 ° C) throughout the year.

Therefore, completely underground types of cellars retain a constant temperature best. In addition, the depth of freezing is affected by the amount of precipitation in the form of snow: the more snow falls, the less the soil freezes.

We build a cellar with our own hands

In this section, we will tell you about how to build a cellar in the country with your own hands, the instructions will be as detailed and step-by-step as possible.

Necessary materials

As we have said, before starting construction, you must decide on the type and characteristics of the soil. The wetter the soil, the greater the thickness of the walls should be at the future cellar.
We will create walls from concrete and thick reinforcement (10-16 mm in diameter). Also, the walls can be built of red brick.

Important! In a highly damp type of soil, walls from foam or cinder blocks cannot be reduced. Such building materials are able to pass through a certain amount of moisture.

The floor and foundation are poured from concrete, and to create it we need: cement, crushed stone, sand, large stones (optional, they are used to create stronger concrete), reinforcement and a concrete mixer. We will lower concrete or its components into the pit of the future cellar using a special trough with sides.

To adjust the solidification of an even layer of the foundation and floor, we will use a special level for measuring angles on a plane. We will also need improvised tools: buckets, trowel, gloves, etc.
In order to gradually and layer-by-layer pour concrete walls, we will need to make formwork from boards. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare the boards in advance, which must be pasted over with a film (so that the concrete does not stick to the tree).

As a waterproofing layer, we will use roofing material. We will fasten it to the walls using small rectangular boards (size 40 cm by 5 cm, depending on the width of the sheets of roofing material) and nails, as well as a gas lamp (heated roofing material is perfectly glued to each other).

We will also fill the roof of the cellar with concrete, but we will leave room for the hatch. The hatch can be bought in a specialized store. To fill the roof of the glacier, we need to make a frame and formwork.

For their manufacture, you need: moisture-resistant plywood (at least 15 cm thick), strong beams for load-bearing structures (metal, wood or concrete), supporting racks, wooden bars, knitting wire and building fittings.

In addition to all of the above, in the process of work you may also need: a tape measure, a pencil, a hacksaw, a grinder, pliers, goggles, etc.

Step-by-step instruction

To build an underground cellar with your own hands, follow these step-by-step instructions:

Dig a pit. Its size will depend on the level of groundwater. If the waters are located below three meters, then the optimal dimensions of the pit will be 2.3 m deep, 2.5 m long and wide. If desired, the dimensions can be adjusted, but do not forget to add 0.5 m around the perimeter and 0.4-0.5 m in depth. This will be needed for concrete and waterproofing layers.
After you have dug the pit, the bottom needs to be well tamped. Next, lay a gravel cushion (you can also use crushed stone). The thickness of the pillow should be 0.2-0.3 m. The gravel layer must also be tamped and reinforcement laid on top. After that, the floor can be poured with concrete.
The thickness of the concrete layer of the floor must be at least 20 cm, otherwise there is a risk of mechanical damage due to the mobility of soil masses (with severe frosts or small earthquakes). After the floor is filled, it must be protected with a waterproofing layer. For this, it is best to use roofing material. It must be laid on the hardened concrete. Usually, the width of the cellar is greater than the width of the roll of roofing material. Therefore, it must be overlapped and glued together, using for heating gas lamp. After the waterproofing layer, another layer of concrete 10-15 cm thick must be poured.
Further, all the walls along the perimeter are upholstered with boards and covered with roofing felt.. The ends of the roofing material plates are heated by a gas lamp, bent and attached to other plates. After the waterproofing layer is ready, you can start building concrete walls.
To start you need to make the primary formwork and lay out the reinforcing bars. The formwork should be made small, 15-20 cm in height (after the first layer has hardened, the formwork is transferred one step higher). Reinforcing bars must be tied in threes with a special knitting wire. Next, install them vertically along the entire height of the pit. The distance between groups of reinforcing bars should not exceed one meter. And ideally, the more reinforcement, the stronger the structure will come out. Usually, the process of erecting walls can take a week or more, because the pouring occurs gradually, with the constant movement of the formwork up. And the deeper your cellar, the longer you will build walls.
When the walls are fully erected, you need to proceed to the final stage - production of frame and formwork for the roof, and after - the formation of a concrete roof. But remember one important thing: the walls rise 15-20 cm above ground level.
Now on the walls you need to place load-bearing beams. Beams from metal or concrete are best suited.
Next you need form formwork from waterproof plywood sheets. Formwork is done around the perimeter of the room. The height of the formwork should be 20-30 cm.
After that you need form a frame of reinforcing wires, which will lie perpendicular to each other, and fastened with knitting wire. It is important that the rods that are laid from below go with their ends to the supporting beams. Also insert two pipes (special ones that are designed for ventilation in the cellar) on opposite edges of the frame.
Once the reinforcement is laid crosswise, the places of its intersection must be connected with a knitting wire. So the design will be stronger and more durable.
The next step is to pour the finished frame with concrete.. It is necessary to pour only in one direction, constantly compacting the concrete. When the entire frame is poured, let it harden and water the concrete every day for the next week. So it won't crack.

For storing home canned food and vegetables grown in the country or personal plot, three types of premises are used: fully buried (including basements), semi-buried and ground. If everything is done correctly during the construction process, then in any of the 3 storages the optimal conditions will be observed - blackout, fresh air and low temperature (from 2 to 7 °C). The purpose of our article is to explain how to build a cellar on the street with your own hands, choosing the most suitable design.

Selecting a storage project

For successful construction cellar, you should understand a simple rule: the more the structure is buried in the ground, the easier it is to create optimal conditions for storing agricultural products in it. The diagram below shows how soil temperature changes at different depths throughout the year. It is easy to see that it behaves more stable at the lower horizons than at the upper ones.

Unfortunately, it is not always possible to equip the perfect basement. The reason is in the local geological and hydrological conditions, in other words, in the specific composition of the soil and the high level of groundwater. In any case, before building a cellar, the owner of a summer cottage or homestead plot must find answers to such questions:

how close to the surface groundwater is during heavy rains;
what is the depth of soil freezing;
the nature of the underlying soils;
What area of the yard is allocated for construction.

Note. These issues are especially important when it is planned to install a basement under a garage, a barn or a private house, since it will be necessary to select and calculate the foundation of the building.

The high level of ground water is the most serious problem for the construction of an underground vegetable store. Therefore, at the initial stage, it is necessary to experimentally determine at what depth they lie, for example, drill a well or interview neighbors who have managed to make cellars. If during the flood period the water does not rise above minus 3 m, then you can safely build a completely buried basement in the country house, shown in the photo.

If the aquifers are closer than 3 m, then the bottom of the cellar or glacier must be made 0.5 m above this mark. This means that you will have to build a semi-buried or ground structure with a bulk top. At the same time, wet and heaving soils around the structure, freezing 1.5-2 m deep, must be replaced with loose fractions (sand, fine gravel).

Advice. Fighting flooding in a heavily buried basement is troublesome and expensive. In order not to have to arrange a full-fledged caisson - a technically complex hermetic structure, it is better to leave part of the cellar on top and bury it with earth. An example of such a structure original design shown in the photo.

How to make a deep basement

All work on the construction of a recessed cellar with their own hands is divided into several stages:

Refinement of the layout of the structure.
Selection of building materials.
Digging a ditch, erecting walls and ceilings.
Installation of ventilation and lighting, interior design.

The layout of the underground storage can be of 2 types - with a hatch and a full-size door at the entrance. The first option is inconvenient to use, but it saves space and is therefore used for basement rooms under garages, country houses and sheds, and sometimes on the street. How the cellar with a lid and a vertical staircase is arranged is shown in the drawing:

For installation front door one of the dimensions of the basement will have to be increased by at least 1 m in order to make steps along the wall. Another way is to build a flight of stairs directly to the door, which is very convenient for moving supplies in and out of storage. The drawing below shows a structure with a straight staircase, shown in section.

More information about the design of the basement is described in the video:

We select materials

The requirements for the construction of the underground part of the cellar are simple - it should not be destroyed by moisture, pass heat well and withstand soil pressure. So traditional building materials are suitable for building walls:

monolithic concrete;
ceramic red brick (not silicate);
cinder blocks;
various natural stone - flagstone, granite, shell rock, sandstone;
ready-made foundation blocks of the FBS series.

Natural stone masonry

Advice. Using metal and sand-lime brick is a mistake. The first in the basement is very rusty and releases harmful compounds, and the second is destroyed by dampness. Hardware are used only for reinforcing concrete fences and coatings.

To block the basement, you can take a tree - a bar, a log and a slab, or pour a concrete slab on a steel frame. A more expensive and more complex option - a brick vaulted covering built using wedge technology (each stone is cut so as to jam the neighboring ones), or on a mortar using templates - circled.

Floors are made of three types:

earthen with the addition of crushed stone (clay);
bulk from gravel and crushed stone;
reinforced concrete.

The first 2 methods of flooring are suitable for cellars dug in dry, dense soils - sandy, rocky, and the like. In the presence of moisture, it is better to perform a screed with a slope towards the pit.

Reference. In the old days, storage facilities were made like a dugout - without stone fences. Earthen slopes were sheathed with wood, after which the pit was covered with logs stuffed with slabs, where insulation was placed - clay with straw.

Basement walls need waterproofing as they will still have to come into contact with moisture. For this purpose, you need to purchase bituminous mastic or roofing material.

Building the underground

The first step is to dig a pit, whose dimensions are half a meter larger than the dimensions of the future cellar. Then sinuses are formed between the walls and the ground, allowing you to perform external waterproofing. Dense dry soil can be dug vertically, at an angle of 90 ° to the horizontal, aligning the sides of the pit along the plane. In loose or wet soils, it is better to dig a pit with slopes of 30-45 ° to the vertical. Also at the stage of earthworks, you need to dig an inclined trench for the stairs.

Advice. To facilitate labor, it is worth using an excavator, which will extract the bulk of the earth. You will only have to earn some money on the walls and bottom of the pit.

For the construction of concrete walls and floors, use the following technology:

Fill the bottom with sand to a height of 10 cm and tamp well, pouring water, repeat the same operation with crushed stone. Install the formwork along the edges and lay a mesh of rebar of a periodic profile with a diameter of 10-12 mm with cells of 15 x 15 cm.
Perform a 10-12 cm thick screed of M200-250 concrete with a slope towards the pit or prefabricated chute, as described in the video above. To set, let the screed stand for 1 week.
Install shield formwork along the walls and fix reinforcing meshes in it, as is done in the photo. Do not forget to put embedded parts and lay up ventilation pipes from plastic.
Pour concrete to the very top of the pit, expelling air from it by immersing steel rods. After 7 days, remove the formwork and lay channel bars No. 14-20 on the walls in 0.5 m increments. Weld reinforcement to them with an interval of 10-12 cm.
Mount the bottom and side formwork of the monolithic slab. To do this, sheets of OSB plywood must be tied to the reinforcing cage and supported from below with wooden beams. It remains to lay the concrete mixture and wait 28 days until the entire structure has completely hardened.

Note. The minimum thickness of a monolithic wall should be 20 cm. For stone and brickwork this size is 250 mm, and for cinder blocks - the width of 1 stone.

If an inclined staircase leads to the basement, then while the main structure is solidifying, finish its walls and form steps. It is not necessary to use concrete here, slopes and treads can be overlaid with an improvised stone.

After the mortar has hardened, be sure to treat the outer surfaces of the walls with a bituminous primer or paste over with roofing material for waterproofing. Then backfill the sinuses with clay (the so-called clay castle). The overlap must also be covered with roofing material and covered with a layer of earth or make a beautiful gable roof.

Reference. Now instead of traditional buildings, you can use more modern solution- a ready-made plastic cellar of a cylindrical shape, completely installed in the pit. Judging by user reviews on the forums, seamless plastic products from Russian brands Triton and Tingard are popular.

Internal work

For creating normal conditions operation of the cellar should be equipped with a natural ventilation system and lighting, as well as put racks and bins for storing vegetables. From the inside, the walls and ceiling of the basement do not hurt to plaster and whitewash.

Here are some tips for decorating your cellar:

Provide storage ventilation through 2 pipes - supply and exhaust, then the room will dry well. The inflow exit is 30 cm above the floor, the hood is under the ceiling. The correct organization of natural air exchange in the cellar is described in detail.
For safety reasons, basement lighting is best done through a step-down transformer that supplies 12 or 36 volts. Lay all wiring in protective plastic corrugations.
Make racks and shelves from wood treated with an antiseptic. metal elements exclude completely.
If you built a small roof over the ceiling, then the ceiling must be insulated. Use polymeric materials that are not afraid of moisture - polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and polyethylene foam.

The insulation of the coating is carried out with outer side. Simple materials will fit here - expanded clay, clay with straw or sawdust. By the way, the ceiling can be cast from concrete with the addition of expanded clay or polystyrene, then the structure will come out obviously lighter and warmer.

Semi-buried structures

The construction technology of such cellars differs little from the construction of deep storage facilities. The pit is dug to a depth of 0.5 m above the groundwater level, after which the work is carried out in the same order. For the construction of the above-ground part, it is better to use warmer and lighter materials - foam block and aerated concrete, the simplest option- double sheets of slate with insulation in the middle.

Note. A good way to arrange a semi-buried cellar is to dig it on a slope or a small hill. The earth extracted from the pit will then go to the top backfill.

In order for the ceiling to withstand the weight of the soil, it is specially made vaulted. For this, a reinforcing or wooden frame in the form of an arch, which is subsequently poured with concrete or lined with bricks. You will learn more visual information about the construction of bulk cellars by watching the video:

Conclusion

As you can see, self-building a cellar on the street is not too difficult, although the process itself is long and laborious. If you want to do it cheaply and cheerfully, then dig a traditional dugout, provided that the soils allow. This option also has the right to life. But over the years of operation (and this is at least 20 years), any basement can be flooded, since the groundwater level is a variable value. The simplest solution is to fill the floor to the detriment of the height of the room, another way is to collect and pump out water from the pit with a pump.

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University them. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

The cellar is one of the most essential rooms in household. If you build it correctly, then in the cellar it will be possible to store not only preservation and fresh vegetables, but even meat, dairy products and eggs.

Following the tips from the article, you can build a cellar with your own hands from scratch. We will tell you how to properly dig a pit, make walls, a floor and a roof in it, and also consider the main types of basements that can be used in the household.

Do-it-yourself cellar construction

Kinds

Construction stages

Additional work

What should be taken into account?

ground

earthy

Semi-buried

wall

At the initial stage, a dry place is selected with low level ground water. After that, they begin to dig a pit, erect walls and fill the floor. At the final stage, the ceiling is mounted and ventilation is installed.

Inside, it is necessary to equip waterproofing and supply and exhaust ventilation. This necessary condition to maintain the microclimate in the room.

During construction, the density of the soil and the level of groundwater occurrence are taken into account.

How to build a cellar with your own hands

The cellar under the house has certain advantages in comparison with free-standing buildings. Firstly, it can be done at the stage of building a house. Secondly, it is very convenient to use: you do not need to go outside to store vegetables for storage or take them out for consumption.

However, the construction of the repository has some difficulties, which will be discussed below.

What is needed to build

Before you make a basement under the house with your own hands, you need to consider several features (Figure 1):

The pit must be deepened by at least one and a half meters. This will create the optimal temperature regime. If the room is less deepened, the temperature in it will rise above +8 degrees, which negatively affects the storage of fresh vegetables.
Be sure to determine the level of groundwater. As a rule, it is carried out at the stage of building the foundation of a house, but if you decide to build a storage facility in an existing building, you can determine the water level yourself. To do this, you need to dig a hole 2.5 meters deep and observe within a week how intensively it is filled with water. It is better to do this in spring or after heavy rains in autumn, when the groundwater level is at its maximum.

Figure 1. Drawings and diagrams for building a basement with your own hands

If the water lies at a level of less than a meter, a basement cannot be built under the house. With an indicator of up to one and a half meters, it is possible to equip the storage, but for this it is necessary to drain the soil and the premises itself.

Note: It is best to deepen the room by two meters or more. This will create a consistently low temperature suitable for storing vegetables and other foods.

A necessary step is also the selection of building materials. The floor can be made of earthen, plank or concrete, and it is better to build walls from ceramic brick, concrete blocks or stone. Use silicate bricks and cinder blocks are not recommended.

How to choose a place for a cellar

When building ground or semi-buried structures, you can choose almost any place on the site. The main thing is that there is no stagnation of water on it. If the basement is located under the house, the choice of location will be very limited.

When choosing a place for underground storage, take into account:

Density and composition of the soil- it should be loose enough so that you can dig a pit yourself. If the house stands on rock, construction will have to be abandoned, since it will require the involvement of heavy equipment that cannot physically be driven inside the premises.
Ground water height is a key indicator. It is best that the storage floor is at least half a meter from the level of underground flows. If this condition is not observed, the basement will begin to heat up even if high-quality waterproofing is provided.
Vault entry should be in a place convenient for you (Figure 2). For example, in the garage, hallway or next to the kitchen. From above, it is better to cover the entrance with a hatch, and make a ladder for the entrance. How exactly you will go down inside must be determined at the stage of designing and digging a pit.

Figure 2. Arrangement of a manhole for entering the cellar under the house

After procuring materials and determining the site, you can proceed directly to construction work.

How to make a cellar with your own hands

The construction of the basement is carried out in several stages, which should be carried out in a clear sequence. First of all, you need to determine the size of the storage. As a rule, a room of 5-8 square meters will be enough for home use.

However, it should be borne in mind that the pit should be larger by about 60 cm on all sides. This space will be needed for the construction of walls and laying a layer of waterproofing.

You can see the main stages of construction in the video.

foundation pit

The first stage is digging a pit. To do this, you will need standard tools: a shovel, a pick and a container for removing soil (Figure 3).

Note: To dig a pit, you must completely remove the floor in the room under which it will be located.

Figure 3. Digging a pit for underground storage

Traditionally, a foundation pit is dug to a depth of 2.5 meters under the house. In the future, taking into account the floor and ceiling, the height of the room will decrease slightly, but it will still be enough even for a tall person.

If groundwater is close to the surface, it is advisable to additionally dig a drainage well in which condensate and excess water will accumulate.

Wall construction

Walls in underground storages are usually made of brick or foam concrete blocks. However, reinforced concrete walls are more popular. They are made like this (Figure 4):

A reinforcing mesh of rods with a cross section of 10-15 mm is installed along the perimeter. It is advisable to fasten them together not by welding, but by special hooks or pieces of wire.
Formwork can be made from any materials at hand, even from scraps of wood.
High-strength concrete is used to fill the walls, adding a small amount of crushed stone to it. Filling is carried out in stages, 10-20 cm each, carefully compacting each layer.

Figure 4. Wall construction

The top of the fill should be at the level of the slab. It will take several weeks for the solution to completely dry and harden. Only then can the formwork be removed.

Floor

In storage, concrete floors are most often made, as they resist groundwater better than earthen. In addition, rodents and other pests will not be able to penetrate through such a floor into the room.

The construction of the concrete floor is carried out in several stages(picture 5):

At the bottom we make a sand cushion. The sand is moistened with water and compacted so that its layer is at least 20 cm. It must be absolutely even so that the concrete floor does not begin to warp in the future.
After the sand, a layer of gravel is laid and it is also leveled and compacted.
The next layer is laid waterproofing material. You can use special polyethylene or ordinary roofing material. This will help strengthen the concrete floor and protect the room as much as possible from water penetration.
A reinforcing mesh of rods of at least 5 mm is laid on the waterproofing and the structure is poured with a concrete layer of 10-15 cm.

Figure 5. How to make a floor in the cellar with your own hands

As with walls, concrete needs some time to dry and harden. Therefore, the first few weeks you can not walk on it.

Roof

It is difficult to make a roof (or ceiling) for a cellar under an already finished slab house, therefore, more often they use wooden beams between which a layer of insulation is laid. This design allows you to protect the underground storage from the penetration of heat from the house.

The floor beams are hemmed from below with a solid shield covered with a heat-insulating film. Between the beams lay out a heater (glass wool, polystyrene or mineral wool). It is not worth saving on thermal insulation: the thicker and more reliable the layer is, the more stable the temperature in the storage will be. From above, the insulation is re-coated with a film and the structure is sewn up with boards, plywood or OSB.

The manhole cover is made according to the same principle, but it is better to make it two-layer, laying heat-insulating materials in the center.

Types of cellars

There are several types of cellars, each of which has certain advantages and disadvantages. For example, underground provides a stable storage temperature, but its construction requires certain skills. Ground-based construction is much easier, and the building itself is suitable even for regions with a close occurrence of groundwater. However, in such structures it is more difficult to provide the necessary thermal insulation.

The main types of cellars

Types of basements differ in the degree of penetration of the structure into the soil. For example, the ground one is a full-fledged building with a foundation slightly deepened into the soil.

There are also underground cellars (underground), which are most often equipped under a residential building or garage. Semi-burrowed and earthen are similar in design. The difference is only in the degree of penetration of the structure into the soil. For small areas, wall buildings that are simply attached to the main building will be optimal.

ground

A ground cellar means a small room or even a box with a layer of insulation.

It is not difficult to build it with your own hands, because they are small and require minimal materials and time. In addition, they are excellent for areas with high underground flows (Figure 6).

Note: It is best to build a ground structure in July, when the groundwater level is the lowest.

Construction is carried out in the following sequence:

Select a dry site on a small hill. The top layer of vegetation is removed and a small depression is made in the soil (about 40-70 cm deep).
pit bottom rammed and covered with a layer of drainage (coarse-grained sand, expanded clay or broken brick). The layer of such material should be approximately 10 cm.
Above 15-20 cm of greasy clay are laid, in which bricks must be placed at a minimum distance from each other. In the same way, the side walls of the pit are strengthened.
Height brick walls above the ground surface should reach 35 cm. This elevation acts as a foundation.
for walls first, a frame is mounted, which is sheathed with thick boards on both sides. Any available thermal insulation material(sawdust, crushed stone or mineral wool).

Figure 6. Drawing and photo of the ground cellar

The outer part of the walls is sheathed with dense material to prevent drafts inside the room. At the entrance, a vestibule is equipped with an external and internal door. This will provide additional thermal insulation. For ventilation, a pipe is made, which is covered from the outside with a mosquito net. To prevent flooding around the perimeter, a blind area and several drainage ditches are made, and the roof is equipped with a gable roof, and covered with any available roofing material.

earthy

The construction of an earthen basement is very simple, and it can be built from almost any available materials. As a rule, a dry site on a hill is chosen for construction, preferably with dense soil.

Note: Earthen cellars are great for storing potatoes, as the tubers hardly sprout, dry out, or wrinkle.

The construction of an earthen storage facility is carried out according to the following technology(picture 7):

They dig a pit with walls at a slight slope to prevent shedding of the soil. If the site has sandy soil, the walls are reinforced with boards or other supports. In addition, this will extend the life of the premises and create a favorable microclimate inside the storage.
The floors are made of adobe, adding crushed brick. Floor thickness should be 15 cm.
The ceiling is made of poles, covered with clay mixture and earth from the outside. The thickness of the earth layer should be about 45 cm in order to protect vegetables not only from the summer heat, but also from the winter cold.
The gable roof is covered with a light natural material(for example, branches or straw). It is better to lower the roof slopes to the very ground. In severe frosts, it can be additionally insulated.

Figure 7. Drawing of an earthen cellar

Shelves inside the earthen cellar are best placed on both sides of the aisle for ease of operation of the premises.

Semi-buried

This type of storage is perfect for areas with high groundwater levels, since its floor is no deeper than one and a half meters from the ground (Figure 8).

To build a semi-buried basement with their own hands, they dig a shallow pit, then make a low foundation, and build walls of concrete, brick or stone.

Figure 8. Drawings for the construction of a semi-buried cellar

The ceiling is made from slab mixed with clay. It will protect inner space from moisture penetration and temperature fluctuations. Additionally, the roof can be covered with roofing material, and heat-insulating material can be applied to the walls.

wall

The main advantage of the wall cellar is that it allows you to save space on the site. In addition, it does not need to specifically choose a dry place for it, since the building is being built close to the house (Figure 9).

Figure 9. Drawing of a wall cellar

How to build a surface cellar next to a house or other building? Any materials can be used, but they must be treated with hot bitumen for waterproofing. A blind area is made along the perimeter and downpipes are installed to remove moisture, and the roof is covered with rolled material.

This is the most simple design cellar, which can be easily done with your own hands from improvised materials. However, if you plan to use such storage long time, it is better to use high-quality brick, concrete and high-quality thermal insulation.

More useful information you will learn about the construction of dry cellars from the video.

Here comes the golden autumn. The harvest is harvested, country goodies are appetizingly packaged in glass jars, and the soul is cozy and calm. Stop! Where do you store fruits and vegetables? If in, then your supplies are securely protected. And if you don’t have a cellar, don’t be discouraged, it’s not very difficult to build it yourself, and I’ll tell you about it now. But first, let's figure out how the cellar differs from the basement, otherwise many summer residents confuse these concepts.

What is the difference between a cellar and a cellar

These are different buildings: basement- a room in a house located below ground level, which is used for various household needs. It is possible to equip a workshop in it, store a country house, build or some kind of utility room, and so on.

And here cellar is intended solely for the storage of crops and is equipped accordingly. That is, it is equipped with racks for storing vegetables and fruits, a ventilation system that maintains a uniform temperature regime (above 0 ° C), which does not allow supplies to freeze.

The cellar can be built separately from the house, in any place convenient for you in the country. The basement is an integral part of the house; it can occupy a huge area, sometimes equal to the area of the entire country house. And the cellar is more compact (if you don’t have a fruit and vegetable base in your country house, of course)) You can make a cellar in the basement of the house, on the contrary, you can’t.

How to make a cellar in the basement

Part of the basement in the house can be equipped with a cellar. To do this, separate the area you need, intended for storing vegetables, fruits and preservation, from the main part of the basement with a simple wooden partition. Conduct separate lighting in the cellar room, equip ventilation, install convenient shelving for food storage, insulate the room if necessary to keep the harvest until spring.

Quite a safe staircase to the basement with comfortable steps. Photo from pinme.ru

Make a separate comfortable stairs to descend into the cellar, because you constantly have to climb it with loaded hands. Many summer residents get injured if the stairs are too steep and have narrow steps, consider this nuance.

If in winter the temperature in the cellar drops below 0 ° C, the walls should be insulated, having previously treated them with any antiseptic, slaked lime or blue vitriol. As a wall insulation, you can use rolled roofing material, glass insulation or ordinary foam sheets, and close the insulation on top with plywood or fiberboard sheets.

If it is necessary to insulate the floor, you can cover it with a strong plastic film, and lay the boards on top. When such protection from the cold is not enough, more thorough insulation is needed. Fill the floor with bitumen, pour a layer of sawdust 5-6 cm high on the bitumen, and make a wooden flooring on top. By the way, high-moor peat, expanded clay, pebbles and even straw or ash can be used as a heat-insulating material for arranging the floor in the cellar. In general, any insulating material at your disposal.

It is not by chance that I paid close attention to the nuances of cellar insulation, because it is very important to maintain a constant temperature there a little above 0 ° C. I think that making a cellar in the basement is not very difficult task, after all, the supporting structures are already there. And if the house does not have a basement where you can build a convenient storage for products, let's consider building a separate cellar.

Cellar in the country with their own hands

The simplest cellar in the country is a concreted pit, closed with a lid. Such a structure is quite suitable for summer residents who do not store crops and harvesting for future use in the country, but take them home. And also - it will act as a large summer refrigerator, where you can store drinks and food brought with you. It is also perfect for temporary storage of harvested crops. So, arm yourself with labor enthusiasm, tools and material. It does not hurt to involve a quick assistant in the case.

Let's outwit the groundwater and build a summer cellar on a hill. The ideal place for him is a small hill on the site, if, of course, there is one. If not, make drainage around the pit for the cellar to drain groundwater. Next, draw a cellar plan with internal shelves (if you intend to build them) on graph paper, mark the dimensions. Now dig a small pit.

The pit can not be deepened much, otherwise it will be a capital building, the creation of which will require the involvement of special equipment. And a simple cellar for a family of 3-4 people can be 1.5 × 2 m around the perimeter and buried by 1-1.2 m. This is where you will need an assistant, because it is difficult to dig even such a small pit alone.

When the pit is ready, you will need to properly strengthen its walls. Don't worry, we won't make a bunker, but we don't want our cellar to collapse and the works of our righteous hands perish under the ruins, do we? Then let's concrete its bottom and walls according to all the rules.

Fill the bottom with crushed stone or pebbles to a height of 5-7 cm and cover with reinforcing mesh. Lay the concreting guides over the mesh. For these purposes, you need to take two boards 2.5 m long, 10 cm wide and strengthen them crosswise at the bottom. You can also use metal carcass from a corner connected by transverse fasteners. Strengthen the walls of the cellar with supporting reinforcement. And then everything needs to be concreted. Don't forget to do natural ventilation cellar, which might look like this:

In fact, the ventilation of basements and cellars is not an easy task, but in our case, a segment of an ordinary aluminum pipe with a diameter of 8-12 cm will be quite enough. Bring the pipe out, and cover it with a piece from above metal mesh so that debris does not get into the basement and harmful rodents do not penetrate.

Reinforce the top of the cellar along the perimeter with a strong frame made of timber with a section of 50 × 50 mm. Attach a foam-insulated door cover to one side of the frame on the support hinges.

To arrange such a cellar, you can use wooden planks, metal sheets, brickwork or masonry. As a result, your cellar may look like this from the inside:

Or like this, easier))

Of course, you can build a huge capital cellar for a summer residence, which will serve you faithfully for many years. But only now, I'm afraid, it will not work to make such a global structure with your own hands. Although, just in case, I will give a few drawings representing the schemes and projects of cellars and cellars. So to speak, for acquaintance))

Detached insulated cellar in the country. Photo from liveinternet.ru

And here is the cellar, which is arranged in the basement:

A very economical option for a cellar:

The cellar in the basement of the house may look like this:

I hope the above projects of cellars and cellars will give you useful ideas))

Cellar in the country with their own hands

A good owner is one who could not only grow, but also save his crop. Cellars are built to store vegetables and fruits in summer cottages. How to build a cellar with your own hands, and what materials to use, you will learn from our article.

Types of cellars for summer cottages

According to the location to the ground level, 3 types of cellars are distinguished: ground, semi-buried and buried.

To determine the construction of a suitable type of cellar, determine the level of groundwater. If the waters lie at a height of 0.5 m to 1 m, then a ground cellar is built; if, deeper than 2 m, then choose semi-buried or buried.

It is easier to find out the water level in spring or autumn. use folk way: take a fresh egg, a piece of wool and a glass or earthen cap. Wool is placed on the bare ground, an egg is placed on top, covered with a cap and covered with grass. In the morning check:

If it is wet under the hood, then the water level is high;
If only wool is wet, and the egg is dry, then the level is low;
If everything is dry, then there is no water nearby.

For long-term storage of the crop with a low temperature from plus 5 to plus 7 gr. Celsius, prefer buried cellars.

Start building the basement summer time;
The place is chosen on a hill. For a place on a wet lowland, a lifting sand and gravel pillow is made. In swampy and quicksand soils, a cellar is not built;
To maintain the temperature in the cellar, ventilation is required.

Do-it-yourself cellar: digging a foundation pit and a foundation

The most common type is the buried cellar.

Digging a pit begins with digging a rectangular hole to a depth of 2.5-3 m, 50 cm wider than expected (up to 3 m on average). Extra half a meter is needed for waterproofing and laying communications.

A foundation is erected in the finished pit, not more than 40 cm high. At a small height of up to 20 cm from the floor of the pit, a reinforcing frame is attached, which is poured from above concrete mix.

Variant of the "layered pie":

Crushed stone and sand are laid on the floor, which are poured from above with bitumen;
Then a layer of clay or reinforced concrete is laid. The total height of the first two layers should be up to 15 cm;
Then everything is poured with liquid rubber;
Topped with concrete mix.

Walling

The walls are built after the floor. If you do the opposite, then a leaky fit may occur and flooding will occur. Connect the walls to the floor with steel reinforcement and a bunch.

For walls, brick, concrete blocks or stones are used. The thickness of concrete masonry should be 15 cm, of brick - from 12 cm (laying in half a brick) to 25 cm (in one brick). Metal is not used, it will not maintain the desired temperature. When using land (the option is only suitable for very dense soils), the pit is sheathed inside with wood treated with antiseptics.

Externally concrete walls plastered with cement, and then treated twice with bituminous impregnation. After drying, sprinkle with sand Inside only plaster. To drain water, a pillow is made of compacted crushed stone and gravel, filled with heated bitumen.

Put in the corners inside metal corners, from subsidence - fasten the chain-link mesh. The joints are coated with a waterproofing compound. If the floor is located above the water level, then non-pressure waterproofing is used, if lower, then anti-pressure.

Anti-pressure and non-pressure waterproofing

Anti-pressure waterproofing is done to protect against groundwater, which is above the level of the foundation of the basement, subfloor or cellar. It is made according to the principle of a multilayer cake, at least three layers are poured using slurry solutions in combination with bituminous mastics. Non-pressure waterproofing is used to protect against the ingress of rain or melt water due to poor drainage of the site.

Ventilation and ceiling in the cellar

For ventilation, 2 galvanized pipes with a diameter of up to 15 cm are suitable. The exhaust pipe is mounted closer to the ceiling, the flow pipe - at a height of 50 cm from the floor. The pipes lead out to the street by 50 cm at opposite ends of the basement.

In the buried basements, an additional ground part (grave room) is built, which acts as a barn. It is 0.5 m wider than the cellar. Wooden beams or concrete slabs are taken to cover the ceiling. The door is insulated with a layer of foam rubber and upholstered with oilcloth. The roof is made larger than the cellar by 50 cm on each side and gable for better drainage of precipitation.

From above, the cellar is covered with excavated earth. Shrubs are not planted nearby - they can damage the structure with their root system.

Inside, external insulated electrical wiring is carried out, most often they are placed in boxes or corrugations. Light bulbs are covered with protective caps to isolate from moisture (you can use notched plastic bottles or plafonds with a rubberized seal). Sockets do not.

To maintain the optimum temperature, the cellar is dried and ventilated.

Outcome

At proper construction a do-it-yourself cellar will allow you to please yourself and your household with country supplies all year round. As for the design of the cellar and the internal equipment with racks, then everyone can show their imagination by creating a convenient place to store canned food, fruits and vegetables.