Usually found in all old apartments, but also often settled in a new home. At the same time, such a base can be equipped in any room, from the bedroom to the bathroom. Tiles are known to be one of the the best materials, which can withstand prolonged exposure to moisture without harming themselves, therefore it is precisely such a coating that fits in the bathrooms and in the kitchen. But how to lay tiles on a wooden floor, if one is equipped in all rooms? After all, there is an opinion that such a coating and a tree are incompatible.
Experienced craftsmen who have been decorating rooms for many years say that ceramic tiles and wooden base- things are incompatible. Many people think that it is pointless to cover the wooden base with tiles, as the floors will be cold and unpleasant, unlike the cozy ones made of wood.
Another factor influencing the opinion of experts is that under a layer of tile adhesive and the tile itself, the base simply will not “breathe” properly, which will quickly become unusable. The formation of the opinion that wood and ceramics are incompatible was also influenced by the fact that the service lives of these materials are quite different from each other - wood will become unusable much faster than ceramics, and the mobility of the wooden base will significantly affect the fact that a rather fragile tile can be damaged.
That is why the use of tiles on a wooden base in order to reduce the impact of moisture on the latter is a rather controversial issue. Although it is this argument that is often given in favor of arranging a tiled flooring based on wood.
On a note! If the tile will be laid in a house under construction or already built, but a new house, it is best to mount this type of coating on - just do not equip wooden floors where it is planned to install this type of coating. Also, tiles cannot be laid on a newly equipped wooden floor, since the tree will “get used” to the operating conditions for 2-3 years, lie down and will “play” for a long time.
It is important to remember that the tile coating, due to the severity of the adhesive / finishing material, significantly increases the pressure on the floors, and if they are made of wood, they may not be designed for such additional weight and will quickly become unusable - they will break.
It is believed that the wooden base for the tile is good because it does not have to be further leveled, and this is somewhat true. Indeed, a series of preparatory work will only be carried out if the floors are already quite old and need some repairs. Relatively fresh wood usually lays well, does not warp, and is one of the best options for evenness of the base for demanding tiles. Everything else speaks far from being in favor of the close proximity of ceramics and wood. In general, it is only wise to lay tiles if the wood is really constantly exposed to significant water.
Tarkett floor tiles prices
tarkett floor tiles
When the need arises
If there are so many "contraindications" for laying tiled flooring on a wooden base, then why is this an option? repair work does it have a place? It's simple - sometimes the ceramic coating just has to be mounted on a wooden base. This may be in the following cases:
- in timber, log, frame houses;
- in case of constant exposure to water in large quantities on a wooden base;
- with fairly frequent wet cleaning in a room with a wooden floor;
- in bathrooms, kitchens, bathrooms, saunas, baths.
How to correctly lay tiles on a wooden floor
The only guarantee that a tile lying on a wooden floor will last for many years is only its correct styling, during which the certain rules installation. Subtleties of technology and recommendations:
- for such work, only light tiles with a low density can be used;
- the base of the floor must be strong and reliable;
- the subfloor must be carefully checked and prepared if necessary;
- tiling can be done on a wooden base, equipped at least two years ago;
- fresh air must be supplied to the wood from the bottom of the floor to avoid the onset of decay processes;
- the load should be distributed evenly;
- the base must be as stable as possible.
First of all, the base of the floor must pass a certain test. It is carefully examined, thanks to which it is possible to assess its condition. The floor should not sag, creak, crunch underfoot. The base should be as even as possible - all sagging floorboards must be replaced with new ones.
Attention! If you lay a tile on a sagging wooden floor, then it will definitely collapse under the pressure of the legs and furniture - it will begin to crumble and break, as the tree under it will bend and “walk”. It is important to make sure of the stability and reliability of the wooden floor even before purchasing the material and starting work.
Also, when installing small tiles on an unprepared and unreliable base, there is a risk that not the tile itself will crack, but the seams that will be between separate elements coatings. Because of this, moisture will begin to get under the tile layer, undermine the tree. And dirt will accumulate in open seams.
Also, the preparation of the base includes the replacement of floorboards affected by the fungus. The fact is that if they are not removed, the fungus will eventually spread throughout the base and significantly reduce its service life. The result is the destruction of the base and damage to the tile.
Important! Laying a layer between them will help to reconcile the wooden base and the tile, which will compensate for the movements of the floor and prevent them from adversely affecting the tile floor.
Good condition of the base
So, it was found that it is possible to lay tiles on a good reliable base. So how is the work done in this case?
Step 1. First of all, the base of the floor is prepared. All garbage is swept away from it, the wooden base is treated with special protective preparations for wood, which will help it fight bugs, fungus, and mold. Next, a layer of waterproofing material is mounted on the floor surface so that its individual strips overlap and are fastened with adhesive tape. Further, an additional leveling material is mounted on the surface, which will not “walk” as much as the tree itself, which means it will allow you to keep the tile intact. It can be plywood, moisture-resistant gypsum-fiber sheet, etc. The material is attached to the base with self-tapping screws in increments of 15-20 cm. The joints of the material are coated with glue.
Step 2 The required number of tiles is calculated. The number of elements will directly depend on the size of individual copies of the material, as well as on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room being repaired. In order to find out right amount material, the area of the room is divided by the area of one tile. It turns out the total number of required material.
Important! It is necessary to buy ceramic tiles with a small margin in case of damage to part of the material during installation. Tiles - the material is quite fragile until it is laid on the base, and breaks easily.
Calculator for calculating the amount of adhesive for laying tiles
Porcelain stoneware and tiles are traditionally considered the best flooring for toilets, hallways and baths. Laying tiles on a wooden floor is much more difficult than on a concrete one. This guide covers options for subflooring and tongue and groove tiling.
Self-laying tiles on a wooden floor is dangerous with mistakes. Home master nuances should be taken into account:
The main problems of incompatibility of wood, tile adhesive and tiles are as follows:
- the service life of plywood, sheet pile, chipboard and OSB is lower than that of tiles, so the maintainability of the structure is very low;
- internal stresses in wood cause warping and other deformations;
- hardness of cured tile adhesive and porcelain stoneware/tile facings is by default higher than wood-based boards, sheet piles and edged board;
- in ceilings along beams, a wooden black floor is practically the only structural solution;
- in the secondary housing stock, wooden floors are made along the logs over the slab, in this case, the structure should be simplified by dismantling the floorboards and logs, pouring the screed for tiling.
Tiles are glued to a wooden floor with special compounds of increased plasticity. However, the developer will not receive 100% guarantees in any case:
- wood can dry out or warp, that is, change linear or spatial dimensions;
- with a deflection of a less durable base, a thin layer of tile adhesive will crack or split, the tile will fly off.
To ensure the main condition - the rigidity of the base floor is higher than the finish coating, several methods are used for the specified operating conditions:
Cladding technology
The most difficult technique for gluing porcelain stoneware to a tongue and groove, the simplest is a self-leveling floor screed over DSP sheets, which is not difficult to tile. It should be remembered that for the safety of rooms adjacent to the bathroom at the time of possible flooding, the height of the finish coating in them should be at least 2 cm higher.
The floor level in the bathroom should be 20 mm lower than in the hallway.
The conflict of wooden structures and ceramic claddings over them is caused by the following factors:
Therefore, the operational resource of load-bearing beams and wooden decking is sharply reduced.
Tiles on the black floor
If the project includes ceilings along beams, a binder is attached to these supporting structures at the lower level. Insulating materials and insulation are laid on it as necessary, then the subfloor is lined.
A budget option is edged board flooring, but in order to lay tiles on top of a subfloor, it is better to increase the construction budget, make a subfloor from board materials(plywood, OSB, DSP). The number of seams will decrease, the stability of the geometry and the overall resource of the structure will increase.
Due to the high humidity of bathrooms, a dry screed as a base for laying tiles on a wooden floor is not the best option:
- expanded clay sand is highly hygroscopic, and it cannot evaporate the accumulated moisture through the waterproof lining (dangerous in case of leakage);
- the design has a solid weight, respectively, heavily loads the beams of wooden floors.
However, the practice of operating such structures exists, so you need to know how to properly make it yourself. The technique consists of several operations:
Advice! To put it right flooring, you should consider the placement of plumbing, the geometry of the room and the format of the tile. Either a solid tile or pieces of more than half of its format should adjoin the walls to ensure a normal bathroom interior.
Gluing on a special mixture
Most of the leading manufacturers of dry mixes have special compositions of increased elasticity for decorating wooden load-bearing structures with tiles. Most popular products:
- Lacrysil - packaged in red buckets;
- Kreps - Super modification;
- Litokol - Litoflex K81 or Superflex K77;
- Ceresit - a mixture of SM-17.
It is possible to lay tiles on two-component mixtures based on polyurethane resins Bona R770, Utsin MK-92, Stauf PUK 440 or Kiilto Slim. They have high adhesion, both to the lower layer of wood and the upper one - to ceramic tiles. However, the life of these compounds is low, they should be diluted little by little in order to have time to develop a solution before setting begins.
Advice! Glue tiles with ordinary tile adhesive on wood is not recommended, as it is intended exclusively for mineral substrates.
The technology for laying tiles on a black floor is as follows:
- sealing the seams of plywood, chipboard, DSP with putty;
- applying special tile adhesive to the base;
- leveling the pastel with a notched trowel;
- laying tiles using SVP systems or standard crosses.
Usually one-piece cladding elements are mounted according to the layout scheme. The next day, cutting and stacking of pieces is performed. Then the seams are rubbed and the plinths attached to the walls are mounted.
The flatness and horizontality of the base is leveled by lags. Small defects are hidden with tile adhesive. Additionally, puttying the surface of the black floor is not necessary. First you need to get rid of the squeaks and replace the beams / logs if necessary.
Unlike most wood-based boards from which the subfloor is made, OSB is coated with wax. Which provides additional costs to the developer - the impregnation will have to be cleaned off with angle grinders, artificially increase the adhesion of the base with tile adhesive and reinforce this layer with a polymer mesh. Therefore, it is worth choosing DSP / chipboard or plywood.
Tiles on grooved board
The technology for decorating a tongue and groove with tiles is very complicated due to the following nuances:
Advice! A layer of self-leveling floor, glue and cladding will dramatically increase the structural loads on the beams hardwood floor. It is highly desirable to make a new calculation for the deflection and bearing capacity of structural elements using the method of rigidly clamped single-span beams.
Revision and strengthening
Before gluing tiles to a wooden floor in without fail load-bearing structures should be reviewed:
- add logs to reduce the distance between them and / or increase the thickness of the floorboards;
- eliminate creaking, stretch self-tapping screws or add additional fasteners to an existing structure;
- replace, if necessary, vapor barrier and insulation materials;
- pull off the tongue-and-groove board to eliminate cracks;
- remove the paintwork completely with a grinder;
- treat the tongue with an antiseptic or fire and bioprotection (the composition additionally includes a flame retardant that increases fire resistance).
Initially, only the first, every fourth and last row of floorboards are attached to the joists. After tightening with self-tapping screws, all boards are fixed to the lags.
More details about the laying of the grooved board were discussed.
self-leveling floor
For leveling boardwalk wooden house budgetary modifications of a self-leveling floor on a cement basis are used. They have self-leveling properties, which makes it easier to work with these compounds. The main nuances of the technology are:
For walking on a liquid solution, paint shoes with a needle sole are used.
Unlike wet concrete screed, the minimum thickness of which is 3 cm, self-leveling floors can be leveled "to zero". However, at the same time, separating layers of hydro-, vapor barrier films, sound insulation and insulation are prohibited.
Tile decoration
Regardless of whether the tile is laid on a wooden base or a screed, you should adhere to the standard cladding technology:
Advice! Floor plumbing is best mounted on top of the tiles. This will reduce the amount of trimming, provide an even solid base, and allow you to save the pattern of the seams.
Since the height of the flooring in the bathrooms is lower than in adjacent rooms, the tiles are laid close to door frame. There is no interface with other facing materials, no threshold and plinth are needed.
Thus, tiles in rooms with high humidity can be laid independently, both on a wooden black floor and on grooved board floorboards. In this case, the recommendations of specialists should be followed to ensure maximum operational life.
Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and firms. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.
Tiled flooring for the kitchen and bathroom is practical and durable, but is it possible to put tiles on existing wooden floors without resorting to large-scale construction work? The answer will be positive. In this article, we will study in detail all the nuances of the "cooperation" of such different materials.
According to its characteristics wooden coverings at first glance, they are completely incompatible with tiles. Wood during operation is not static. Even floors made from well-dried and treated boards still shrink for another 2-3 years.
Daily temperature and atmospheric fluctuations lead to the fact that the surface "plays" - either expanding or shrinking. These processes go unnoticed by a person, which cannot be said about the tile: it can peel off, crumble, literally burst at the seams.
In order to prevent this from happening, it is necessary to study the reasons that affect the deformation. ceramic coating and eliminate them if possible.
The main factor in the stability of the tile coating
Great attention when laying tiles is paid to preparatory work. The aesthetic appearance of the finished coating and its further performance characteristics.
We have already found out that wood is not a static material, so our main task is to make a universal surface that will be the basis for laying. This basis should “reconcile” two different coatings, then the main factor in the stability of the tiled coating will be observed - static and strength.
Advice! You can not lay tiles on "fresh" floors - the shrinkage period is at least 2-3 years from the time of installation.
Preparatory work: checking and
Before creating a stable base for tiles, you need to revise your wood flooring. Then create from existing and additional materials, a multi-layer cake that will keep the solidity of the floor covering, provide wooden details design ventilation and minimize the load on the wood.
Important! We can not do without parsing the wooden structure. Regardless of the external condition of the upper boards, they must be removed and the damaged elements replaced. If necessary, shorten the laying step of the lag and align them horizontally with a level. Antiseptic treatment of all wooden structures is required.
Stages of work
Step #1 We remove the wooden coating, having previously cleaned it of paintwork.
Important! If the condition of the boards is deplorable, skip this step, they are still unusable.
There are three ways to speed up the process: chemical, thermal and mechanical. They are all quite time consuming, so choose the one that is acceptable to you.
- The chemical method consists in treating the floors with a special reagent that dissolves varnish or paint.
- Thermal method - heating the surface with a building hair dryer. After that, the paintwork is removed with a spatula.
- The mechanical method of removing varnish or paint is done using a power tool: a grinder with a special nozzle, and then grinder or simply sand the surface with sandpaper.
Step #2 We check the condition of the beams and the log.
Replacement of damaged items is required. After that, horizontal alignment is carried out.
Step #3 Antiseptic treatment.
Do not spare money for this procedure - good antifungal products are not cheap. It is necessary to process strictly according to the instructions, observing the time interval and the number of coatings. Perform the next step only after complete drying.
Step #4 Expanded clay insulation.
Expanded clay should be taken small fraction. The entire space between the lags is filled. For natural ventilation a gap of 5 cm is left (the distance from the bottom of the log to the insulation).
| Indicators | 10-20 mm | 5-10 mm | 0-5 mm |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bulk density, kg/m3 | 280-370 | 300-400 | 500-700 |
| Crushing strength, N/mm2 (MPa) | 1-1,8 | 1,2-2 | 3-4 |
| Grading, % | 4 | 8 | 0 |
| Frost resistance 20 cycles, weight loss of gravel, % | 0,4-2 | 0,2-1,2 | not regulated |
| Percentage of crushed particles, % | 3-10 | 3-10 | No |
| Thermal conductivity, W/m*K | 0,0912 | 0,0912 | 0,1099 |
| Water absorption, mm | 250 | 250 | 290 |
| Specific effective activity of natural radionuclides, Bq/kg | 270 | 270 | 290 |
Step #5 Rough coating laying.
If the floorboard is in good condition, then it can be used as a rough finish. We fix it with galvanized screws and putty. A gap of 1 cm must be left around the perimeter, which is filled with mounting foam.
When the board is unsuitable for further use, then moisture-resistant plywood or chipboard treated with special impregnation will play the role of a rough base. Sheets are stacked in a checkerboard pattern, technological gaps are processed with foam.
Now you need to create another layer of "sandwich" - a strong and stable surface on which the tiles will be directly glued. There are three ways to create a base:
- Express method;
- "Dry" leveling method;
- Cement-concrete screed or "wet" method.
Each of the methods has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's consider them in detail.
Express method of surface preparation
This method is best used on wood floors in good condition or with minor imperfections.
You will need sheets moisture resistant drywall, which will be fastened with screws to draft boards in two rows. GKVL can be glued to wood using polyurethane glue. Its two-component composition is strong enough, so the glued sheets will practically not be affected by wood.
Main advantages:
- fast and cheap installation of the structure;
- good resistance to temperature fluctuations of wood.
Important! At the stage of preparatory work described in the relevant section, when leveling the surface using the express method, you can not fill up the insulation. This will significantly reduce the time to complete the work and reduce the cost of their cost.
Main stages.
"Dry" method of leveling the surface
The key task of the method is to create the most stable draft layer from moisture-resistant plywood, chipboard, OSB. These materials from wood waste more static than wood, thanks to the binding components used in the manufacture.
Advantages:
- increase insulating properties due to the laying of an additional layer of insulation;
- execution time is significantly reduced due to the absence of work requiring technological waiting.
Disadvantages:
- this method of leveling the surface involves raising the height of the floor, which is undesirable in rooms with initially low ceilings.
If the ceiling height allows you to use this method, then keep in mind that the difference between the leveled and unfinished surface will be visible. You can visually hide this nuance by equipping a small step or threshold.
Step-by-step instruction
First step. Laying the insulating layer.
After the floorboards have been treated with latex impregnations, a masking net is laid and attached to them. Along the perimeter of the room, it is overlapped to a height slightly higher than the level of the future screed, and is fixed on top with a wide edge tape.
Second phase. Pouring dry mix.
The dry leveling mixture consists of fine fraction expanded clay, expanded clay sand and other additives. The mixture must be carefully and evenly distributed over the surface.
Third stage. Laying sheets of chipboard or plywood.
The material is laid in two rows in the " brickwork»: The seams between the sheets must not match.
Fourth stage. Sanding and priming.
Sheets of plywood or other wood-based panels must be sanded along the seams. The joints are filled with sealant and covered with a primer layer.
"Wet" leveling method
The method of leveling the surface with a "wet" method is similar to the usual preparation of the screed before laying the tiles. The difference is that the layer of leveling compound is much smaller than usual, since the load force on wooden coatings is limited by their characteristics.
For pouring, self-leveling polymer or cement-sand mixtures are used. Choose products from trusted manufacturers, so that in the end the performance of your floor does not deteriorate.
Advantage: with this leveling method, you will get a “floating” screed that will be resistant to the “whims” of wooden structures.
Main limitations- this is increased labor costs and an increase in floor height. The financial component of the issue is higher than in the previous methods.
Stages of work.
Step #1. Strengthening the wooden structure.
If the distance between the lags is more than 500 mm, then the preparatory work will include, in addition to revision and replacement of damaged parts, strengthening the structure with additional wooden beams.
Step number 2. Install the intermediate flooring from the floorboard.
For this, you can use boards that were in use, if their strength leaves no doubt, and the thickness is at least 40 mm. The boards are attached to the logs with a gap for ventilation (10 mm).
Step number 3. Installation of the main flooring.
Chipboards or plywood are attached perpendicular to the draft boards. The thickness of the material must be at least 12 mm. Laying method - "brickwork" with gaps between the plates of 2 - 3 mm.
Step number 4. Waterproofing.
We create a good insulating layer of paper, oiled or impregnated with paraffin, a thick polyethylene film. It is necessary to carefully line the entire floor surface, as well as the perimeter of the room to a height along the wall of 10 cm and above. The material is overlapped and carefully fastened with double-sided tape. An insulating wide tape is glued around the perimeter.
Film floor waterproofing
Step number 4. Fill in the self-leveling compound. The layer thickness should not exceed 10 mm.
Prepare the mixture according to the instructions on the package. Distribute by gender. After the composition has hardened, you can start gluing the tiles.
Some builders, in order to save money, have gotten used to making floor levelers on their own. For its preparation, purified sand and liquid glass are used in a ratio of 2: 2. The mixture is brought to the desired consistency with purified water.
| Name. Short description | Packing kg | Consumption kg/mm/m2 | Price | Strength MPa | Layer thickness in mm |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ALFAPOL VP - self-levelling self-leveling floor M200 F200 Pk5 W12 on a cement basis | 25 | 1,75 | 375-471 | 20 | 2-40 |
| REAL Floor leveler, High-quality cement-based dry mortar | 25 | 1,7 | 360 | 20 | 2-80 |
| Bergauf BODEN ZEMENT MEDIUM, self-leveling floor for the final leveling of horizontal surfaces, ideal for further installation of any floor coverings (ceramic tiles, parquet, carpet, linoleum) | 25 | 2 | 289-324 | 20 | 6-60 |
| Forbo Eurobond 915, fast curing screed, low shrinkage, self leveling, fast drying. Suitable for underfloor heating. For indoor use incl. in damp rooms. Withstands load from furniture on casters. | 25 | 1,7 | 405 | 20 | 3-50 |
| Petromix PS, for leveling floors on concrete and other hard substrates in dry, wet and damp areas. Serves as a base for floor coverings (parquet, ceramic tile, textile carpets, plastic coatings, linoleum, etc.) | 25 | 1,5 | 441-471 | 25 | 2-30 |
| Founds T-42 Niplain, Self-levelling, high-strength, moisture-resistant, non-shrinking cement-sand-based leveler with the use of special chemical additives. | 25 | 1,7 | 342-433 | 25 | 3-30 |
| Ceresit CN 178, for the manufacture of screeds operating under conditions of low and moderate mechanical loads, incl. with constant exposure to moisture (in residential and public buildings, on exploited roofs, balconies, terraces, open areas etc.), with external and internal works, in civil and industrial construction. | 25 | 2 | 370 | 35 | 5-80 |
| Vetonit 4100 cement-based mixture for leveling concrete floors indoors | 25 | 1,6 | 520-537 | 20 | 2-30 |
| vetonit 4150 is suitable for quick leveling of concrete floors and creating screeds in homes, offices and public buildings. Used for renovations and new construction different kinds floor coverings. Used in underfloor heating | 25 | 1,6 | 520-550 | 20 | 2-30 |
| Bergauf BODEN ZEMENT FINAL, cement-based self-levelling floor for perfectly smooth surfaces. For rooms with normal and high humidity(bathroom). | 25 | 1,8 | 435-490 | 20 If you are on a tight budget, then the last styling method is the most economical and advantageous in terms of trimming.
Installation process step by stepNow you know that laying a tiled floor on a wooden floor is a doable task, but whether the game is worth the candle is up to you. Video - How to lay tiles on a wooden floorVideo - Laying tiles on a wooden base |
In recent years, the availability of such finishing material as ceramic tiles has increased several times. A huge range of collections of facing ceramics allows almost anyone to buy tiles for arranging flooring. And it is not surprising that many owners of the so-called secondary housing, when repairing, prefer to use ceramic tiles. But, as a rule, most of them face a problem. laying tiles on wood floor. If the technology of laying porcelain stoneware on a concrete base has long been developed and is not difficult, then in the case of wooden floors- not so simple. In this article we will talk about the preparation of a wooden floor for laying ceramic tiles, we will try to reveal all the nuances of the process.
Literally from the first lines, I would like to focus your attention on the fact that laying tiles on a wooden floor and on wooden surfaces, it's not the same! Unlike tiling walls made of wood, the situation with floors is much more complicated. So, you have an old wooden floor and a great desire to ennoble the flooring. You should start by inspecting the surface. Depending on the audit carried out, the methods of preparing a wooden floor for tiles can go in two directions.
There are several ways to prepare the base of a wooden floor for laying tiles:
- First- a traditional screed, only thinner and lighter. Spread over waterproofing metal grid, which through small uniform sections is attached with self-tapping screws to subfloor. The laser level beats off a horizontal line along the entire perimeter of the room with a water level. The level of the future floor is set along it, then beacons are set at a distance of about 90-100 cm from each other and about 10 cm from the walls, and a cement screed no more than 3 cm thick is poured. Self-leveling mixture can be used as a screed. After the screed has dried, you can lay the tiles on the wooden floor.
- Second- the so-called dry screed, which is becoming more and more popular. This method is in no way inferior to concrete, but unlike it, a dry screed weighs much less and does not give a noticeable load on wooden structures. Before laying the tiles on a wooden floor, first sheets of moisture-resistant drywall (GKLV), gypsum-fiber sheets (GVL) or cement particle boards(CSP). Plates are stacked in several layers. It is preferable to choose gypsum-fiber sheets, which are made by semi-dry pressing of gypsum powder and secondary cellulose fibers, have improved heat and sound insulating characteristics, and thanks to a special hydrophobic impregnation. GVL can be used in rooms with high humidity. They are more plastic and stronger than drywall, and in comparison with cement-bonded particle boards, they are much lighter and cheaper.
Sheets are screwed to the rough base using self-tapping screws. Make sure that the GVL joints are located above the boards, and not above the gaps between them, otherwise the base will not be strong enough. The seams between the sheets are glued with special glue for GVL or GKL. In some cases, one layer of gypsum fiber sheets is enough, but if you doubt the rigidity of the floor, it is better not to be greedy and lay a second layer.
In the bathroom, it is necessary to make high-quality waterproofing at the junction of the floor with the walls. Most craftsmen use mounting foam for this. And although this method of insulation is done quickly and quite reliably, we still recommend resorting to polymer membrane waterproofing. Strips about 30 cm wide are cut, which are inserted between the GVL and the base of the floor with one side, and attached to the wall with the other side, the joints are glued with sealant.
After everything GVL sheets laid and fixed, they are covered with a universal deep penetration primer (several times, after the previous layer has dried). When all our coatings are well dried, you can start laying floor tiles on the wooden floor. When choosing a tile adhesive, pay attention to the fact that it is suitable for work on GVL or GKL.
In addition to the methods described above, it is possible to strengthen the base without a screed - using KC glue based on liquid glass or two-component polyurethane glue. When the glue dries, an elastic layer forms on the surface of the subfloor. waterproofing film. According to manufacturers, such compounds are able to protect tiles from cracking during natural shrinkage of a wooden base. It is difficult to judge how reliable such a method is. However, we recommend that you choose a rigid and durable base. Polyurethane compounds should be used only when it is not possible to prepare the subfloor in a different way or it is required to veneer tiles wooden floor in a small area.
And finally, we invite you to watch a video of the installation of a dry screed from the GSP floor elements from the Stroyformat company and the subsequent laying of porcelain stoneware on a wooden floor.
Ceramic tile - best coverage for the floor in a room where wet cleaning is often carried out or high dampness occurs.
The material is difficult to install and even when laid on a stable monolithic concrete, presents high requirements to the qualification of the master.
If the base is made of wood, the process becomes much more complicated. Next, we will tell you how to lay tiles on a wooden floor so that the coating is strong and durable.
Bases for tiles are usually divided into two categories:
- simple;
- complex.
The tree is classified as the second type due to the following features:
- Low bearing capacity: tiles and - heavy materials and not every wooden structure can withstand such a load.
- The need for aeration: tiles on - airtight coating, and without access to air, the wood collapses.
- Short lifespan: A wooden base will require repair much sooner than a ceramic tile cladding. This means that the user will one day be forced to knock down the road finishing material despite its good condition.
Distinguishes wood from other materials and mobility, implying the ability to:
- shrink;
- bend under the action of loads;
- transmit vibrations;
- shrink and swell with changes in humidity.
The greatest mobility is observed in the first year or two after construction, when the tree shrinks.
Tiling is allowed only after this period has passed. This does not apply to dried lumber with a moisture content of 8-12%.
Thus, laying tiles on a wooden floor is possible under the following conditions:
- the structure is reinforced, and the load is minimized so that deformations are excluded;
- the tree has already shrunk;
- the condition of all elements of the floor is perfect and repairs will not be required soon;
- for the same purpose, the wood is carefully treated with antiseptics;
- between the base and the tile there is a layer that allows the tree to change dimensions, but at the same time retaining a stable shape;
- there is air access to lumber.
Let's see how all these requirements are implemented in practice.
Preparatory work
Foundation preparation consists of several operations.
Dismantling the floor boards and checking the condition of all elements located under them - from the log to the vapor barrier
All damages are eliminated, and if they are significant, new materials are laid. Special attention is required:
- Laid on top of the ground vapor barrier film: if there are gaps in it, steam enters the floor structure, which contributes to the development of mold colonies and rotting fungi.
- wooden elements.
Laying plywood on a wooden floor (on glue) to level the base for tiles
It is important to remove rotten areas, cleaning them to a completely healthy tissue, and treat all lumber with one of the antiseptics:
- hot drying oil;
- sodium fluoride solution (50 - 100 g per 10 l of water);
- copper sulfate;
- any prefabricated antiseptic for interior work.
Rotten areas are recognized by their soft structure - a knife or awl easily enters them.
It is necessary to bring the drying oil to the desired temperature carefully: when overheated, its vapors ignite. In the absence of experience, it is better to apply impregnation without heating.
Reinforcement and alignment
With a lag step of more than 50 cm, intermediate ones are laid between them - to prevent deflection of the floor boards. New beams are also treated with impregnations.
The upper faces of the lag should lie in the same plane - then the base will be perfectly flat. During construction, they are laid like that, but due to uneven shrinkage, distortions occur, so alignment is necessary. The protruding beams are cut off with a planer, the sagging beams are put on linings or thin boards are stuffed on them, then adjusting the thickness with a planer.
Installation of boards
The dismantled floorboard, if it is in good condition, is returned to its place. Before that, varnish or paint is removed from it using one of the following methods:
- Heating with a hair dryer: fast and inexpensive option. When air is supplied with a temperature of 200C - 250C, the paintwork lags behind the wood, swelling with bubbles, so that it can be easily cleaned off with a spatula. This effect is due to a significant difference in the thermal conductivity coefficients of paint and wood. It is impossible to remove paint from metal and concrete bases in this way.
- Wash treatment: so-called chemical products designed to remove paint and varnish coatings. They are produced in the form of a ready-made solution (they are liquid and gel-like) and a dry mixture. After processing, the paint is easily removed, but with significant volumes of surfaces, this method is expensive.
- Processing with abrasive tools: in a manual version, the method is laborious, in a mechanized one (a grinder or a drill with a special nozzle is used) it is dusty and requires jewelry ownership of the tool.
Finished floor - tiles on wood
If damage is found (cracks, woodworm passages, rotten areas), the boards are rejected.
Boards are laid on logs with gaps of 3-4 mm, and between boards and walls - 1 cm.
The gaps eliminate the appearance of stresses when the wood expands due to changes in temperature or humidity.
Before installing the flooring, you must make sure that between it and the insulation there will be a ventilation gap of at least 5-7 mm.
The boards are fastened to the lags with corrosion-resistant nails or self-tapping screws:
- galvanized;
- oxidized (black);
- phosphated.
The board is attached to the extreme lags with two hardware, to the rest - with one.
Irregularities are puttied, then the boards are polished with a grinder.
Finally, all gaps are filled with polyurethane sealant ( polyurethane foam). This resilient compound will transform the flooring from slotted to solid and at the same time allow the boards to expand freely. The gaps are foamed little by little: the sealant significantly increases in volume during hardening. The exposed material is cut flush with the floor.
Waterproofing
In order to impart hydrophobic properties, the flooring is generously treated in several steps with latex impregnation or hot drying oil.- polyethylene;
- glassine or other bituminous material;
- material with paraffin impregnation;
- paint grid.
The overlap of the panels of the paint mesh is 5-10 cm, of all the others - 10-15 cm. The places of overlap are glued with adhesive tape.
How to lay tiles on a wooden floor
The next step is to form a rigid base under the tile. Apply one of three varieties of screeds: wet, dry and semi-dry.
"Wet" screed on a wooden floor under the tile
This is an option for rooms with high humidity. Set up like this:
- a grid of steel wire with a diameter of 3-5 mm with a mesh of 20x20 mm;
- install beacons, checking their horizontalness with a building level;
- pour cement-sand mortar with a layer of 3 cm thick;
- align it with the beacons by the rule (for this, the distance between the beacons is made slightly less than the length of the rule);
- remove the beacons and fill the remaining openings from them with a solution.
A thickness of 3 cm is optimal. With a smaller value, the screed will crack, with a larger one, it will be too heavy for a wooden deck.
Wet screed
If a ladder (shower) is installed in the floor, the screed is made with a slope towards it, for which special beacons are used. They often come with ladders.
In washing departments, instead of the usual cement-sand mortar, a waterproof polymer is used. The purchased one is expensive, therefore they often use a home-made version prepared according to the following recipe:
- polyurethane glue or liquid glass (KS glue can be used): 2 parts;
- coarse sand (must be sifted and washed): 2 parts;
- water: 1 part.
"Wet" screed dries completely and gains strength after 28 days.
"Semi-dry" screed
This option also uses a cement-sand mixture, but with a limited amount of water. "Semi-dry" screed has the following advantages:
- the time of complete drying and curing is only 4 days, the tiles can be laid after 3 days;
- in comparison with the “wet” analogue, it has less weight, therefore, the load on the wooden base is reduced;
- quickly keeps within, use of the mechanized means of laying is possible;
- there is no risk of moisture penetration into the underlying layers;
- can be applied on any basis, including crushed stone, sand or wood;
- does not shrink (little water evaporates).
Semi-dry screed
A “semi-dry” screed is inferior to a “wet” screed only in penetrating power: it fills bottlenecks worse - seams and cavities. The situation is improved by adding plasticizers to the solution. They reinforce the "semi-dry" screed, as well as the "wet" one - with wire mesh and fiberglass.
For every 10 m 2 of area, the components are taken in such quantities:
- Portland cement grade 400 and above: 25 kg;
- fine-grained river sand (clay impurities - no more than 3%): 60 l;
- fiberglass: 75 g
After thorough mixing for 3 minutes. water is added little by little until the solution reaches the consistency of sticky clay sand (molded into a lump).
It is useful to add fiber filaments to the solution - additional reinforcement reduces the likelihood of cracking to zero.
"Dry" screed
In rooms with normal humidity (corridor, hallway), one of the following materials can be laid on top of the waterproofing instead of cement mortar:- cement particle boards;
- gypsum sheets;
- moisture resistant plywood;
- moisture resistant drywall: due to its fragility, the material is used only for lack of anything better.
The plates are laid with a rotation of 30-45 0 relative to the boards so that the seams do not match. They are screwed along the perimeter with self-tapping screws in increments of 25-30 cm and one more in the center. The seams are filled with a compound for sealing gaps between sheets of moisture-resistant drywall, for example, with Polyrem SSHP-421 cement putty, and after it has hardened, they are polished.
After installing the screed, tiles are glued to it in the usual way.
For facing a wooden floor with ceramic tiles, a large amount of work has to be done. But if everything is done correctly, in accordance with the recommendations outlined above, the floor will not yield to concrete in terms of quality and durability.
