Cladding a balcony with a clapboard with your own hands: the choice of materials and installation instructions. Professional advice on cladding a balcony with a clapboard with your own hands The procedure for cladding a loggia with a clapboard

The arrangement of the loggia takes place in several stages. Design is done at the last moment, and the overall appearance of the room depends on these works. Finishing the balcony with clapboard is inexpensive and practical option which will make the room cozy and pleasing to the eye.

Features, advantages and disadvantages

Sheathing a balcony with clapboard is a popular and common solution. The material is easy to process and install, affordable and has attractive external characteristics.

Initially lining - well planed wooden plank, but now it can be made from other raw materials. However, it is natural material that has the best characteristics.

The advantages of lining include:

Strength. Natural wood is resistant to external mechanical influences, it does not leave scratches.
Safety and environmental friendliness. Lining does not emit harmful substances into the air, it is non-toxic.
Long service life. The service life of the casing can reach up to 20 years if it is properly installed.
Thermoregulation. The lining absorbs the sun's rays and together retains heat indoors.
Noise suppression. The material absorbs sounds from the street, so it will be quiet on the balcony.

In addition, when installing under the lining, they hide wires and communications, which is important when ennobling the living space. Lining can not be painted, which reduces the time of repair work. Ease of care is also a plus. If dirt appears, it is enough to wipe the material.

Thanks to the natural structure, the lining is pleasant to the touch. It helps to create and maintain a microclimate in the room, participates in air circulation. Therefore, a comfortable temperature will be maintained on the balcony both in cold and warm weather. It also guarantees the maintenance of a constant level of humidity.

This material also has a number of disadvantages:

One of the drawbacks is related to the structural features of the lining: it is light and quickly ignites.
Like all wood products, lining is sensitive to moisture and sudden changes in temperature. To avoid premature damage, the boards are treated with special compounds.
In addition, if the operating rules are violated, the materials are deformed.

Which one is better to sew?

Lining can be of several types, differing in operational and external characteristics. The specifics of the installation of boards and their care, as well as the interior of the future living space, depend on the choice of material. You can sheathe a loggia with one of the following types of lining.

wooden

Natural material with all the ensuing benefits. The lining is made in the form of thin panels of different sizes. The bars are made from different types wood: ash, oak, alder, cedar, linden, spruce, pine, larch. The material "breathes", does not allow air to stagnate on the balcony. An unusual feature of the skin is a pleasant, fresh aroma. It comes, first of all, from coniferous boards.

Depending on the quality of raw materials, lining is divided into types:

The material labeled "Extra" is considered the best. The boards are well processed, devoid of external flaws. The cost of such material is higher.
Grade "A" allows for small knots, but is highly durable.
Medium quality wood is used to create class "B" lining. Cracks and resin pockets can be located on the bars.
The material of class "C" has the lowest quality. The lining is poorly polished, easily deformed. There are captive knots up to 25 mm in size, non-through cracks, stripes and other defects on the boards.

It is used for sheathing pantries, technical and auxiliary premises.

eurolining

Variety wooden panels. Outwardly, these types are very similar, but the eurolining is of higher quality, since it is manufactured according to European standards. Such material is more expensive, the price is due to high operational characteristics. Eurolining is stronger, made of the best varieties tree.

The material is divided according to size and shape. There are standard profiles, softline, landhouse, landhau, American, block house.

The most popular top is the last one. Externally, the model looks like a bar with one side in the form of a cylinder.

Eurolining is made taking into account strict requirements, including its dimensions. It has a thickness of 13, 16 or 19 mm and a width of 80, 100, 110, 120 mm. The length of the beam is 500-6000 mm.

Plastic

Building materials are made of PVC, vinyl, have good heat and sound insulation characteristics. The service life of plastic lining reaches 30 years.

Polyvinyl chloride is classified as an environmentally friendly raw material: it does not contain harmful chemical compounds, which is confirmed by sanitary certificates.

plastic bars easy to mount, guarantee the tightness of the joint. They are resistant to UV rays, do not fade in the sun. The material is not afraid of cold and hot weather: the operating temperature range for it is from -50 to +50 C. A wide variety of beam designs allows you to choose them for any interior. Manufacturers create plastic lining that imitates natural materials decorated with drawings or patterns.

The listed materials have their pros and cons. Plastic panels act as a cheap analogue of wooden beams and even have a longer service life. At the same time, wood boards are associated with nobility and comfort. Wooden lining is more resistant to sudden changes in temperature, but plastic is resistant to fire.

Making a calculation

Before carrying out repair work, it is necessary to determine how much materials will be required. Correctly carried out calculation will allow you to avoid buying extra boards and will not let you throw money away.

For sheathing, they take the lining itself and wooden beams, for the purchase you need to know their dimensions:

First of all, the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is calculated. To measure the length, width and height, you will need a tape measure or a regular measuring tape. From the resulting values subtract the area of \u200b\u200bdoors and window openings. Because of uneven surface and the features of fastening the rails, usable area may be lost, and several boards may be damaged during the work. For this purpose, another 8-10% is added to the final figure.

To calculate the amount of lining, the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is divided by the area of one board. for reiki standard sizes(60x9.5 cm) this value will be 0.52 m2.
It is also necessary to determine the number of bars used for mounting the crate. The standard dimensions of the part are 50x40 cm. The height of the surface to be treated is divided by the interval between the guides (0.6) and multiplied by the length. The footage of the beam is obtained by adding the learned values.
Before buying, you need to clarify the dimensions of the profiles of a particular brand. You can do this with consultants in a hardware store or on the manufacturer's website. As a rule, companies place special calculators for calculating materials.

Required Tools

To install the lining with your own hands, you do not need a specialized professional equipment, and this is its advantage. The list varies depending on the type of material selected, however, depending on general view The list of tools includes:

Perforator, drill with impact mechanism;
Drill with a diameter of 4 or 6 mm;
Screwdriver (electric or cordless);
Hacksaw, jigsaw;
Construction level, body kit, nylon cord;
Cross bat;
hammer, axe.

To take measurements, you will also need a tape measure, a square and a pencil, fasteners are carried out using nails with large hats (60 mm), self-tapping screws for wood or metal (50, 75 and 90 mm) and anchor umbrellas. And during finishing works details for fittings will be needed: corners and skirting boards.

How to sheathe with your own hands: step by step instructions

Finishing the balcony is carried out in several steps:

At the first stage, preparatory work is carried out, the purpose of which is to clean the surfaces from old paint, whitewash and others finishing materials. should be removed and window slopes, window sill and plinth - you get a box without everything.

Frames are inspected before plating. Rotten parts are replaced, an antiseptic is applied to the surface to prevent damage to the lining. To prevent the appearance of fungus, surfaces facing the north side should be treated; as an option, a film with waterproofing properties is placed under the frame. The gaps between the boards and the walls are filled with foam. When the balcony railing is made of metal sheets, a layer of foam blocks is created, which is laid on the cement mortar.

The surfaces on which the lining is laid should be as even as possible: this way the lining will last longer. Existing bumps and cracks are leveled with a primer, it is recommended to apply it in two layers. Before proceeding to the next step, you must wait until the solution is completely dry.

The final result of all work depends on the installation of the crate. Reiki are located perpendicular to the lining boards. Previously, parts for the frame are also treated with antiseptic agents. When repairing, it is important to follow the sequence of work. The rails are mounted first under the ceiling (at a distance of 10 cm) and near the floor (indentation is 3-5 cm).

Lathing installation steps:

The rail is cut to the desired length. Marks are made on the beam at regular intervals. With the help of a drill, correlated in diameter with the dimensions of the fasteners, holes are created.
The beam is applied to the wall, holes are drilled in the wall with a depth of 5-6 cm at the place of future fastenings.
For fasteners, self-tapping screws are used and initially they are not completely twisted to check the evenness of the laying of parts.
Self-tapping screws are driven in with a hammer, leaving about 10 mm. Then they are twisted so that the structure holds the most tightly.

The remaining bars are installed in the same way. After installing the two parts, other elements of the crate are marked between them. For this purpose, nylon cords are pulled vertically. The intervals between the bars should not exceed 60 cm. The frame is mounted on all walls and ceilings.

Guides are also stuffed around the openings. They are nailed vertically and horizontally in the same plane with the frame. If it is planned to insulate the loggia, the parts are placed between the slats. Rolled materials can be glued directly to the walls, then stuff the frame from above.

When the balcony is processed in a humid climate, the surfaces can be covered with waterproof putty before installing the battens.

The process of sheathing a balcony is simple, especially if the guides were correctly installed before that. Wooden lining is laid in two ways, distinctive features has and mounting materials made of plastic.

open mount

For installation, self-tapping screws and nails are used, with which the panels are screwed to the frame. It's simple and fast way skin, however, it loses in terms of aesthetic characteristics, since it deteriorates in this way appearance lining due to protruding screws.

With concealed fastening

When performing work, nails are driven into inner part groove, and the caps are sunk so that they do not interfere with the installation of the following elements. Clamps made of a metal plate can be used as fasteners. Installation is made from one corner to another. The clamps are inserted into the grooves and screwed in with self-tapping screws. Subsequent panels are installed in the grooves of the previous ones, the procedure is repeated until the very end.

An aesthetic view of the balcony can be achieved if the balcony is sheathed with clapboard. A cozy and warm balcony on which you can create a recreation area is the dream of any apartment owner. An aesthetic appearance can be milked if the balcony is sheathed with clapboard. Of course, you can hire specialists for this. But it is better to save money and do it yourself, especially since there are no special tricks here. So, what is needed for this and how to properly sheathe a balcony with clapboard.

The advantages of lining

You can decorate the walls of the balcony with different materials:

tree,
siding,
plastic panels.

As a tree, a wooden lining is used, which is a panel of wood.

It has many advantages over other materials:

environmental friendliness and complete harmlessness to health;
the ability to breathe, pass steam, due to which moisture does not condense on the walls of the balcony, the insulation does not deteriorate or rot and mold does not form;
aesthetic appearance;
additional wall insulation.

The cost of lining is low, so the total cost of work will be quite democratic. But the finish will look aesthetically pleasing and even expensive if the lining is then varnished or other wood coatings.

Finishing the balcony will look aesthetically pleasing and even expensive if the lining is covered with varnish or other wood coatings after sheathing

What you need

In order for the finish to turn out to be of high quality, you need to choose the right material. It is best to pay attention to the lining of hardwood. Pine wooden lining resin may be released long time. The type of wooden lining is also important.

Finishing good quality will come out of Grade A, as it will not require polishing. Grade B will have to be sanded with your own hands. But its cost is much lower.

For work, you will need not only wooden lining for the balcony, but also bars 50 by 40 mm.

From the tool you will need a drill, a screwdriver, a level and a jigsaw.

Wooden lining is considered the most environmentally friendly material for finishing balconies and loggias.

Preparatory work

Before you sheathe your balcony with clapboard, you need to prepare a springboard for work. This is also easy to do yourself.

Before finishing, the quality of the balcony walls is carefully checked. All irregularities, chips, damage are best repaired. If the walls are very uneven, then they can be leveled with your own hands. Then the lining will lie flat, and the wall will look neat and aesthetically pleasing.

Important: The walls are treated with antifungal impregnation with their own hands. This will protect the tree from decay and eliminate the need for repairs for a long time. It is especially important to do this if the climate is humid or the loggias face the north side.

If the balcony is made only of sheet iron, then you will have to make walls from foam blocks before sheathing. After that, they can put a heater on them or immediately make a sheathing. It is also advisable to pre-insulate the walls first. This can be done by hand.

Before you sheathe your balcony with clapboard, you need to prepare a springboard for work

Wall insulation

To warm the loggia, you can use various materials. As a rule, those who sheathe a loggia or balcony with clapboard on their own focus on materials such as polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene, basalt or mineral wool. It's easy to work with them. Sheets of insulating material can simply be glued to the walls of the loggia with special glue or fastened with fasteners, if we are not talking about cotton wool.

Important: when insulating the walls with your own hands, you must not forget about the waterproofing material. It is best to use a special waterproofing film. Then the area of \u200b\u200bthe loggia will not decrease much and lining the balcony with clapboard will not make it quite small.

Sheathing - work order

Sheathing the balcony with clapboard begins with the fact that the direction of the lining is chosen.

It can be:

vertical,
horizontal.

Not only how the finish will look on the loggia depends on the direction, but also how to make the crate for the lining. The horizontal arrangement of the wooden lining visually raises the ceiling. Vertical trim makes the balcony wider.

Under the horizontal arrangement, the crate must be vertical, under the vertical - horizontal.

Do-it-yourself crate is easy to do. First of all, the location of the frame strips is outlined. Between them it is necessary to make a distance of 50-70 cm. The first and last planks are placed 10 cm from the edges. After that, bars of the desired length are cut, corresponding to the size of the loggia. Holes are drilled in the bars and attached to the loggia walls with self-tapping screws. Thus, the frame of the crate is made.

After that, the decoration with wooden clapboard begins.

Remember that the wooden lining for the balcony has grooves and ridges along the edges for tight fastening to each other. Such a connection allows you to get a beautiful flat surface of the loggia wall. And most importantly, connecting the planks with your own hands is not at all difficult. It is enough to make sure that the comb fits clearly and tightly into the groove.

The wooden lining on the balcony begins to fit from the edge. After fixing the first wooden plank to the frame, the lining is nailed. It is important to nail it from the side of both the groove and the ridge. This will prevent distortion of the structure.

Important: to prevent the finish from splitting and spoiling the appearance, nails should not be driven close to the edge of the ridge. As for the groove, it doesn’t matter - it will still be blocked by the crest of the subsequent wooden plank.

Also, lining on your balcony or loggia can be fastened with clamps. In this case, the mount becomes completely invisible. In this case, the wooden lining on the balcony is fixed with a nail, but is not permanently fixed. After that, a clamp is placed, and the nail is removed. Thus, they put the bar after the bar. After the entire wooden lining for the balcony is in place, the walls can be treated with a special impregnation or coated with varnish or paint. This decoration of the loggia will look beautiful, and its cost is not very high.

Additional work

In addition to the walls themselves, the ceiling and floors can be sheathed with clapboard. This finish will also look quite nice. If the floor is sheathed, then logs are pre-installed. The floor is also insulated.

After sheathing, skirting boards and slopes are installed. After that, the finishing is completed.

Cladding a loggia with a clapboard is a thing that can be done with your own hands. This will require minimal carpentry skills and accuracy.

Sheathing a loggia with a clapboard is a thing that can be done with your own hands

The technology of the inner lining of the balcony with wooden clapboard (video)

Almost every apartment has a balcony or loggia that you want to turn into a natural continuation of the apartment. To do this, windows are installed there, insulation is performed and interior decoration. Today the market can offer huge selection building materials, and the diversity design solutions for apartments, it will only warm up the desire to create something unusual on a balcony or loggia. But, surprisingly, the leadership is kept by the old and proven option - finishing the balcony with clapboard. Moreover, lining the balcony with a clapboard with your own hands is a matter that anyone can do. It is enough to be able to use the tool, to know what and how to do it.

Types of lining

Before proceeding with the work itself, it is necessary to decide on the type of lining. After all, the appearance of the walls, as well as the total cost of finishing the balcony with clapboard, will depend on this. In addition, the total cost and appearance will also be affected by whether the balcony will be finished with plastic clapboard or wood.

Wooden lining

The production of wooden lining has been established on a wide scale, and today you can find lining from a wide variety of wood species. From the entire range of wood species for cladding a balcony with wooden clapboard, pine, linden, ash, larch, aspen are chosen. If finances allow, then the loggia or balcony can be finished antique with a specially aged oak clapboard. In fact, it does not matter which breed will be used, it all depends on the wishes and financial capabilities of the owner. But there is one important nuance. Such a high popularity of pine or the same linden is due to the ease of wood processing and affordable price. Therefore, if you want to finish the balcony with a lining with your own hands without any special problems, choose soft woods.

When choosing a lining for cladding a loggia or balcony, you should immediately decide what the end result should be. Since it will depend on which class of lining it is advisable to buy. There are four such classes in total - Premium ("0" or "Extra"), A, B, C.

The most expensive, but also the highest quality is Premium class. This lining without knots, core, perfectly smooth and uniform color. Clapboard class A lower cost, no core, uniform color planks. Can hold 1 knot or resin pocket at 1.5 running meters. Average cost class B lining. It contains up to four knots or resin pockets, the slats are uneven in color and poorly finished. The cheapest class C lining. The planks are poorly processed, they have a lot of knots and resin pockets, there are cracks and a pronounced non-uniform color. When finishing a balcony with clapboard, the price of the issue will depend primarily on the wood used and the class of the clapboard itself.

In addition to the classes, the lining has several types of profile: "Thorn groove along the length", "Thorn groove and chamfer along the length", "Soft-line", "Euro". It should also be noted that pedantic Europeans tried to minimize waste when lining with clapboard, and all planks are adjusted to a certain size. Such a lining is called "Eurolining", and it compares favorably with an asymmetric type of connection, ergonomics and the presence of grooves on the back for condensate drainage. But if we compare the bars various lining, then the difference will be only in the size, depth and type of connections.

Plastic lining means ordinary narrow PVC wall panels. They were called lining because of the similarity with wooden planks. Sheathing a balcony with plastic clapboard has a number of significant advantages over wood. The main advantages are low price, immunity to high humidity and ease of surface maintenance. The main disadvantage is its artificial origin. Plastic lining does not have such a large division into classes and types as ordinary wooden lining. Therefore, the choice here is only in the selection of a suitable color, size and determination of the quality of the product.

The color scale of plastic lining is huge. You can choose for every taste. The main thing when buying is to ensure that all panels are from the same batch and the same tone. Also, when choosing and purchasing PVC panels, you should pay attention to the quality of the product. To do this, you need to take the panel in your hands and inspect it. The first thing we pay attention to is the thickness of the working surface. The thicker the better. The second is the number and condition of the internal stiffeners. The more of them, the better, and the ribs themselves should be even. The third is the quality raw material for the panel. To do this, you can bend and return the edge of the panel. If after that there is no trace left or it is poorly visible, then the panel is of high quality.

Which lining to choose, plastic or wooden, is decided directly by the owners, depending on their preferences and capabilities. It should only be noted that the issue of choice must be approached with all responsibility. Since the installation process itself, the end result and the service life will depend on the quality of the materials.

Preparing for cladding

Before the clapboard lining of the balcony or loggia is completed, it will be necessary to make a number of preparatory work. These include purchasing the right amount necessary materials and wall preparation. The latter is especially important, since wooden lining can become covered with fungus or mold over time.

Tools and materials

The interior decoration of the balcony with clapboard begins with measurements and the purchase of the required amount of materials. There are no particular difficulties with measurements. It is enough to measure the height and length of the walls of the balcony or loggia and calculate the total area. Then measure all door and window openings and subtract their area from total area walls. As a result, we get a clean area for clapboard lining.

After taking measurements, you can go for materials. In addition to the lining itself, wooden blocks of 60x40 and 60x15 mm will also be required. In this case, it should be noted that the bars will go to the crate. Beam 60x40 mm will be used for the main crate that holds the vapor barrier and between the bars of which insulation will be laid, and timber 60x15 mm for surface, holding the second layer of vapor barrier. We also purchase insulation 40 mm thick, impregnation against fungi and mold, superdiffusion membrane and single layer vapor permeable membrane, varnish. Still need planed board 20 mm thick for a window sill of a width convenient for you. To decorate the slopes, you can also take a planed board, but with a smaller thickness of 12 - 15 mm, and the width of the board will be equal to the thickness of the walls on the slopes. Styrofoam is often chosen as a heater, but you can stop at stone wool. It has excellent thermal insulation properties and is more environmentally friendly than polystyrene.

If the balcony is lined with plastic lining, then in addition to the PVC lining itself, you will also have to buy moldings. They come in several types, and each is used in a specific case. There are moldings for the ceiling, connecting, end and start, for the outer and inner corners. Their number is quite easy to calculate, just look at the balcony and count the number of corner joints. Another important point is the purchase of short self-tapping screws with a wide head for fixing PVC panels to the crate.

From the tool you will need an impact drill or a puncher, a screwdriver, a hammer and a doboynik, a mallet, a hacksaw, a brush. And, of course, a tape measure, level, pencil or marker. You will also need some Consumables- these are liquid nails, fastening clamps for lining, nails for lining, self-tapping screws and dowels 6x60.

Preparatory work

All work on finishing the balcony or finishing the loggia with clapboard is done by hand after the windows are installed and the floor is laid. But in addition to the windows and the floor, there are walls to which the crate will be attached. It is with them that they will have to carry out the main work in preparation for lining the clapboard.

Firstly, all walls should be checked for cracks and damage. If any are identified, they will have to be repaired and allowed to dry completely.

Secondly, check the walls for unevenness. This can be done quite simply - by attaching a long level to the wall. If large humps or dips more than 10 mm deep are identified, then they will first have to be leveled. Otherwise, after lining with clapboard, the entire wall will look very crooked, and wooden frame over time, it will lead, and the slats of the lining will move away. Of course, you can put linings under the bars, but over time they can dry out, which will cause the frame and lining to hang out.

Thirdly, perform the treatment of walls and frame bars with a special impregnation against fungi and mold. This measure is a strict necessity, since a balcony or loggia is more exposed to atmospheric influences than living quarters. And wood can quickly become unusable. After impregnation treatment, wood and walls become protected from this scourge. But the protection period is limited, so it will be necessary to carry out minor repairs and re-processing every 10 to 15 years. There is another option for protection against fungus and mold. It consists in processing PVA walls with putty. It creates a waterproof barrier. But this is also a disadvantage. Since the walls stop "breathing", and all the moisture accumulates inside the structure and can lead to the appearance of fungus. After treatment with a protective compound, let the surface dry and then proceed to further work.

Important! It so happened that among the people a balcony and a loggia have become identical concepts. Although this is completely different designs. A balcony is a part of a building with a fence protruding from the plane of the facade. Loggia - is part of the building and is fenced on three sides by walls. In this regard, lining the loggia with clapboard is somewhat simpler, unlike the balcony. Since on the balcony it is first necessary to create reliable walls for the crate. Therefore, the cost of materials and work for lining a balcony with clapboard can be several times higher. Also, finishing the loggia with clapboard makes less stringent requirements for insulation and moisture protection of the clapboard.

Clapboard lining

Directly, the work on finishing the balcony or loggia with clapboard must be carried out in two approaches. The first is the creation of crates, insulation, vapor barrier. The second is lining the lining with planks. At the same time, it should be noted that the decoration of the loggia with wooden clapboard and plastic clapboard is in many ways similar to each other.

Finishing the loggia with clapboard video lesson:

Creation of the frame and insulation

The first thing we start with is markup. We apply it for the slats of the frame. Depending on how the lining will be installed - vertically, horizontally or diagonally, battens will also be placed. For diagonal and horizontal lining, we install the strips vertically. For lining boards fixed vertically, the battens will be installed horizontally. The step for the frame slats in both options is 50 - 70 cm. In this case, the first and last slats are always installed at a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the edge. It is also worth remembering that the width of the crate bar is 60 mm, and the line, along which the bars will be equal to, is their upper bound. When marking, we make sure that the lines are strictly horizontal or vertical.

Finished with markup, cut the bars to the required length. After that, placing a bar under the line and pressing it tightly, we drill holes for fasteners in the bar and wall. This can be done with both a drill and a perforator. The pitch of the holes is 40 - 50 cm. In this case, the first and last holes are located 5 cm from the edges. Having made holes, we insert dowels there. Next, you need to expand and fasten the superdiffusion membrane to the wall. For this, liquid nails are required. Having fixed the membrane at several points with their help, you can install it in place and fasten the battens using self-tapping screws.

The next step will be laying insulation inside the crate. Everything is pretty simple here. If necessary, we cut the insulation itself to the size of the opening between the bars and tightly lay it inside. When working with mineral wool, you should follow safety precautions and do all work in gloves, a respirator and goggles. On top of the laid insulation, we lay a single-layer vapor-permeable membrane, first fixing it on liquid nails, and then finally fixing it with 60x15 bars.

Clapboard lining

Having created the frame, we proceed to its sheathing. In total, there are several options for fixing the slats - vertically, horizontally, diagonally. Which one to choose is up to you. On the photo demonstrating the decoration of the loggia with clapboard, you can see how two methods of fixing the planks were used at once.

Installation work begins with cutting planks of the required length for the area under the windows of a balcony or loggia. Next, we take the first bar, cut off a spike from it and apply it with a cut to the wall. Now we fix the bar itself. There are several options here - with the help of clamps, nails driven in obliquely or straight, as well as through fastening with a plug. The simplest and at the same time accurate method of fastening is with the help of a clamp. Its advantage is that the fastener itself will be hidden, and the lining plank will remain intact. On the photo demonstrating the lining of the balcony with a clapboard, options for attaching the clapboard are visible.

Performed fixing the lining with a clamp in the following way. Tightly holding the first plank, we drive in a couple of nails, one into the top bar of the crate, and the second into the bottom. We drive the nails themselves not to the end, but so that they hold the bar in place. Then we take the clamps and wind them up so that they fit snugly, pressing the lining board. Then we take the nails and finally fix the clamp itself. Initially, we remove the nails fixing the bar. That, how to fasten with clamps when lining a balcony with clapboard video lesson:

Further steps for lining the balcony with clapboard will be as follows. We take the next panel and put its spike into the groove of the previous one and press it tightly. In order for the bar to sit in place, it must be finished off. For this we use a mallet. Then we simply fix it with clasps according to the algorithm described above. We embed the nail heads with a doboynik. The whole procedure is repeated for all planks. The closing plank of the lining must be cut lengthwise so that it freely enters the remaining space. We finish the bar itself with a special clamp, and fix it with nails driven in directly.

Having finished with the wall under the windows, we move on to higher walls. In fact, all works are similar to those described above. But there is one important point. If the planks of the lining are short and do not completely cover the distance from the floor to the ceiling, then they will have to be placed with an extension. This is done in the following way. First, install a long bar and fix it. At the same time, we make sure that the edge lies on half of the bar of the crate. Then we take another bar, but already short, and fix it as a continuation of the long one. Next, start with a short one and add a long one to it. The result is a staggered arrangement of planks.

When all work on the installation of lining strips is completed, we proceed to window sills. There are no special difficulties in this. Under the windows there is a special gap for the window sill. Therefore, you can cut the board to the required length, then foam the base. Get the board under the windows and press. The main thing is to check its horizon in advance so that the window sill does not collapse. In conclusion, leave the board under a press of 10 kg over the entire plane. This is necessary because the foam can lift it up. Finally, we install the skirting boards on the floor and ceiling.

Sometimes, in order to hide the fastening of the first and last planks, skirting boards are installed in all corners of a balcony or loggia. The protruding corners of the lining are closed with special external corner joints, which can be bought together with the lining. Further finishing of the balcony with wooden clapboard will consist in grinding the surface and opening it with varnish. After that, all work can be considered completed.

Finishing a balcony or loggia with PVC clapboard is in many ways reminiscent of finishing with a wooden clapboard. But the process itself is somewhat simpler and faster. The planks of the plastic lining are installed in the same way, but instead of the clamps, short self-tapping screws with a wide hat are used. All corners are hidden by moldings, and finishing, sanding and varnishing are not required. On the photo demonstrating the decoration of the balcony with a clapboard, you can see what a balcony sheathed with plastic looks like.

Using plastic to finish a balcony with clapboard video tutorial:

Once upon a time, the owners of apartments with balconies were very envied: additional meters in the "Khrushchev" were priceless. Not everyone could decorate the space beautifully and not turn it into a warehouse. Today, it is possible to competently manage the loggia and make it cozy with your own hands, but if there are no design skills, then it is necessary step-by-step instruction. A interesting ideas for finishing eurolining will help not only create a unique and practical design, but also significantly insulate the apartment itself.

The best material for a balcony

Of course, you can simply sheathe the room from the street with a profile and stop there. Starting repairs on the balcony is not a task for the lazy. But here the interior lining with clapboard will transform concrete walls, will make them elegant and well-groomed. How nice it is to drink tea on such a balcony in summer!

Sheathing with clapboard will require some skills and costs, while many of the work can be done by hand and, in fact, it is not so long. First of all, it is worth choosing the finishing material, the rest will depend on it. Lining is called any planks for cladding (because wooden slats wagons were sheathed for cheapness). Today it is a common name for PVC ("plastic" lining) and wood panels.

Plastic is not so difficult to lay, it is light and easy to maintain, resistant to temperature extremes, humidity, household chemicals. It is better to choose light panels that almost do not fade over time (this is true if the loggia faces the sunny side). The cost of PVC and wood differs in different regions, this can also influence the decision to purchase a particular material. For some reason, plastic sheathing does not impress compatriots; for many, the most budgetary wooden lining seems more interesting. Although there are much more difficulties with its preparation, installation and maintenance.

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If you want to sheathe a loggia with a wooden clapboard, then be prepared for the fact that:

Before installation, the tree must be treated with special compounds;
If you plan to paint, varnish the panels, then this is done after installation;
The tree is afraid of water and cannot be wetted, washed with rough sponges, abrasive chemicals;
Will need to be removed in a few years protective layer(coating) and again process the lining with compositions.

wishing to sheathe natural clapboard different rooms does not get smaller, so advice on choosing will be useful.

Varieties of lining

The lining is made from different types of wood. They may also differ in variety and processing. All this affects the appearance of the skin and its cost. Timber is called eurolining if there are longitudinal shallow grooves on the back of the canvas, so that the tree breathes and does not change shape over time. Previously, eurolining meant a higher quality of wood, today manufacturers do not always follow this requirement.

Wooden panels are made from:

Spruces and pines are the most accessible materials. They are resinous, so drops can appear on the walls in the heat, but such panels are resistant to fungi and many pests. The wood of these species is considered soft: a strong blow can leave a noticeable mark.

Cedar and larch- more dense, with an interesting wood pattern. They have less resin, so they are in great demand from conifers.

Linden, alder, aspen- not resinous, spruce and pines are a little harder. They are loved for their amazing shades of color. Hardwoods can be chosen according to your taste.

Certainly, oak- durable, hard, hardy, but also more expensive.

The cost per type of wood depends on its quality - the smoother, the more expensive and higher the grade.. The more knots and defects, the lower the grade and the cheaper. There are 4 varieties in total:

Extra - the cleanest and most expensive lining;
Elite or grade A - almost even wood, without knots, marks and cracks (allow 1 minor defect per 1.5 sq.m.);
Grade B may have small size changes in the pattern (for the same area no more than 4 knots, 2 resin formations);
Grade C - everything else. Sometimes such strips create a special charm and originality. The main thing is that such traces are not completely black and rotten - then there is a possibility that the panel will collapse further or break during installation.

When buying a wooden lining, give preference to already dried material (chamber drying means 7-10% moisture, this is normal for finishing). Wet wood can dry indefinitely, causing the panels to lead, cracks and gaps appear between them. And this is unlikely to add zest to the updated loggia.

On sale you can find lining different sizes, but taking into account the place (we do not sheathe inner room) it is better to use average parameters. The thickness of lumber varies up to 25 mm, for cladding a balcony you need to take 14-16 mm, in a relatively warm climate - 12 mm.

The width of the plank creates visual effects, increasing or decreasing the volume of the room. Narrow panels (6 cm) require more installation time, and wide panels (15 cm) can make a small loggia very tiny. If in doubt, purchase a lining 9-12 cm wide, it will be comfortable to work with and pleasant to look at the result. The length of wooden panels can reach 6 m. Euro lining has strict standards: length - 0.5-6 m, width - 8, 10. 11, 12 cm, thickness 13, 16, 19 mm.

Plank profiles

External saw cut of the panel (plain, front side) can create a perfectly flat surface with a wood pattern or have a relief needed to create a certain atmosphere and spatial effect. The most popular are:

Standard- almost flat panel, the sides are processed at an angle;

Softline- a variant of the standard, where the corners are slightly rounded, the wood looks a little softer;

American- the panel itself is cut at an angle (different thickness of the plank from the sides), the surface will be ribbed, with clear lines;

Landhouse– even width with grooves along outside to enhance the pattern and geometry of space;

Block house- the face of the panel is rounded, it is a relief imitation of a bar.

You can always find interesting options, even place an order for a batch of unusual or non-standard profiles if you want something unusual. Remember that you will need to pay more for an exclusive.

How to sew with your own hands?

After choosing the lining, the work itself begins: preparation of the room, insulation and crate, installation of the lining, processing of the lining. It is assumed that the glazing of the balcony has already been completed. It is important to follow the steps consistently and accurately. This will make the repair of the loggia easier, better and more durable.

How to calculate the amount of material?

To do this, you need to measure the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, subtract the area of \u200b\u200bwindow and doorways. Add 10% for scrap and joints, and then divide the resulting area by the area of \u200b\u200bone panel. So you will find out the number of bars needed for sheathing. If the room has a complex geometry, then calculate the area of its parts. A similar calculation will be done for you in the store or on the website of the lining manufacturer.

The consumption of bars for the crate is calculated separately for the ceiling, floor and each wall: there should be 0.6 m between the slats, by this value we divide the height of the wall and multiply the length. Then we sum up all the numbers and get the total footage of the beams for the crate. This calculation is done in meters.

You will save time if you immediately take other consumables (antiseptic primer, varnish, insulation, moisture insulation film, putty and foam for installation, liquid nails, kleimers or self-tapping screws, nails with a 3cm head, skirting boards).

Room preparation

In order for the panels to serve for a long time, it is necessary to clean all surfaces of the old dilapidated coating (paint, plaster, tiles, other finishes). Cracks and depressions must be repaired or foamed, protrusions must be beaten off. After that, the level is checked, with significant differences, it is leveled with putty. After surface cleaning, remove debris and prime the entire loggia (ceiling, walls, floor) with an antiseptic compound to avoid fungus and mold, it must be treated with an antiseptic and wooden details. When the composition dries, you can proceed to the next step.

The choice of insulation

You can not insulate the balcony, then the air temperature will be the same as on the street. For wood, it is better to do insulation - the drops will be less sharp, less contact with moisture and better protection. The crate will be needed in any case, but for thermal insulation it will be necessary to take into account the thickness of this layer, the characteristics of the material. How are balconies insulated?

Styrofoam- lightweight, inexpensive, functional. The disadvantages include the formation of toxic fumes during combustion, the creation of a greenhouse effect (does not conduct moisture).

mineral blocks- it mineral wool, fiberglass or cinder blocks. They provide good thermal insulation. Slag and stone products are praised in the work, glass wool has its own nuances. Does not highlight harmful substances when burning mineral wool, it is somewhat more expensive. The feature of minerals to retain moisture forces the plates to be well isolated from other surfaces.

EPPS (extrusion polystyrene foam) – modern material creates sound and heat insulation. Unusually fits, so there are no gaps between the plates. It is higher in cost, needs ventilation, but is in demand in a professional environment for its technical characteristics.

Foil polyethylene foam used for thermal insulation only in warm climates, however, it does not allow moisture to pass through, therefore it is used as protective film and additional material when warmed with mineral wool.

Foam glass- Another modern and natural insulation. Of the benefits: non-flammable, lightweight, withstands huge temperature fluctuations, easy to install. Cons: price. Best Features from European manufacturers, but the cost will be high, Belarusian companies have more available options with acceptable quality. But it is better not to take Chinese products.

All these materials can be used for insulation of walls, floors, and ceilings.

How to make a crate?

Sheathing a balcony with clapboard essentially begins from this stage. To do this, we create a frame of bars along the perimeter of the walls, the thickness of each plank should be 1.5-2 cm more than the thickness of the thermal insulation in order to provide ventilation for the lining. With the “budget” approach, this rule is slightly violated: materials for the crate are taken the same thickness as the insulation or a little wider, and then a counter-crate is attached to the primary frame - the same rails, but perpendicularly. This creates the necessary air pocket, but there will be more work.

The direction of the lining can be chosen horizontal or vertical (even diagonal), and the frame under it is made in the opposite direction. Therefore, when using a counter-lattice, the primary row of bars is laid in the direction of the lining, and the secondary one (the lining will be attached to it) is perpendicular. With a simple laying of the crate, the first guide is laid horizontally 1 cm from the bottom (if the lining will lie vertically or diagonally) or vertically 1 cm from the corner of the wall (horizontal arrangement of panels).

It is important that the first bar is perfectly horizontal (vertical), the rest of the bars will align with it. Cut the bars to the desired length (reducing the initial parameters by 1-1.5 cm for seasonal changes), mark their placement (60 cm from the top of the bar), checking the level. Next, proceed with the installation of the crate: we lay the beam along the marking line and drill it with a puncher along the length, leaving holes every 50-80 cm. In this case, the drill should enter the wall to a depth of 6-6.5 cm so that you can insert dowels.

We unfold the vapor barrier material and fix it mounting adhesive, on top of it we lay and fasten the crate with nails, aligning it with the first bar. We lay the insulation between the "ribs" of the frame. It is convenient to adhere to this order - walls, ceiling, floor. The crate on the floor is called “logs”, after warming, we lay moisture-resistant plywood (not thinner than 12 mm) on top of the log, fixing it with self-tapping screws.

September 12, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior finishing, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

Wood remains one of the most sought-after finishing materials. In particular, the decoration of the balcony with eurolining is very popular, since this material is easy to install and at the same time allows you to provide an attractive appearance of the room with an atmosphere country house. The only thing, before proceeding with the installation of eurolining, be sure to familiarize yourself with the nuances of this work, which I will discuss below.

A few words about eurolining

Eurolining, as you might guess, is an improved version of ordinary lining. In particular, it is distinguished by the following nuances:

spike length increased to 8 mm(the standard is 4 mm) - this is perhaps one of the main differences between eurolining and ordinary lining. The enlarged spike provides a stronger connection. In addition, the possibility of gaps as a result of a difference in the level of humidity and temperature in the room is excluded;
the presence of two channels on the back side- the latter are designed to ensure ventilation of the space under the lining in order to exclude the occurrence.

Moreover, eurolining is subject to more stringent quality requirements and, in particular, its geometry. Thanks to this, the surface sheathed with eurolining looks more attractive. Otherwise, the materials are identical, respectively, the method of their installation is also the same.

Finishing technology

So, we got acquainted with the features of the material, now we will consider how to sheathe the balcony itself with eurolining. First of all, I note that this procedure includes several stages:

Each of these stages has its own nuances, which I will discuss below.

Tools and materials

Before starting work, as in any other construction business, it is necessary to prepare materials and tools. In this case, you will need:

wooden slats with a section of 20 x 40 or 25 x 50 mm;
antiseptic primer;
protective impregnation for wood;
self-tapping screws and dowel-nails;
wood saw;
jigsaw;
electric drill;
hammer;
tape measure and pencil.

If you want to insulate the balcony, then you will additionally need vapor barrier film, as well as the heater itself. As the latter, you can use mineral mats, penofol, expanded polystyrene, etc. On our portal you can find detailed information about what types of insulation can be used on the balcony.

Training

First of all, you need to prepare a balcony for eurolining. This is done as follows:

first, free the balcony from all items so that they do not interfere with work. In addition, dismantle all elements on the walls and ceiling. It can be shelves, etc.;
if there are crumbling and flaking areas with an old finish on the surface, they must be dismantled;
then the surface must be treated with an antiseptic primer so that mold does not form on the wall or ceiling. The liquid is applied in a thin layer with paint brush or roller. Moreover, to achieve the maximum effect, the surface should be treated twice.

This completes the process of preparing the balcony.

Frame installation

Before sheathing a balcony with eurolining, it is necessary to install the frame. Below we consider the most complex version of its installation, i.e. with insulation and vapor barrier.

So, the work is performed in the following sequence:

First of all, you need to decide on the location of the lining on the wall. As a rule, lining is placed vertically. However, if the balcony is small and narrow, it is better to give preference to a horizontal arrangement;
then the installation of wooden planks of the frame is carried out. It should be noted that the cross section of the slats must correspond to the thickness of the insulation. If, for example, the thickness of the insulation is 50 mm, then, accordingly, the bar should also have a thickness of 50 mm.
If the slats are thinner, bars of the required thickness can be placed under them.
For mounting the planks, it is best to use anchor bolts or dowel-nails. Moreover, it is not necessary to tighten them during the installation process, so that you can subsequently adjust the position of the frame in terms of level and, if necessary, insert wedges between the wall and the rails.

Particular attention should be paid to the location of the rails - they should be perpendicular to the lining and in increments equal to the width of the insulation, but not more than 50 cm. To increase the strength of the structure, you can also place spacer bars in increments of about a meter;

Another important point is the vapor barrier, which should be fixed under the bars.

after fixing the frame, it is necessary to lay the insulation between the slats. Fill the entire space so that there are no gaps on the surface.

Before proceeding with the installation of the frame with your own hands, treat all the rails with a protective impregnation for wood to prevent them from rotting.

This completes the frame mounting process.

Installation of lining

Sheathing a balcony with eurolining can be done using ordinary self-tapping screws or special fasteners - kleimers. It is better, of course, to give preference to the second option, since such a mount is easier to perform and at the same time it turns out to be hidden, respectively, the surface will look more attractive.

Buying clampers will not affect your budget, since their price is about 40 rubles per package, which contains 100 fasteners. Therefore, we will consider this method of installation below.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

Get started by preparing your boards. To do this, measure the balcony, then mark the boards and cut them with a hacksaw or a jigsaw.
In addition, you need to mark the location of electrical appliances and cut holes of the required diameter with an electric jigsaw, having previously drilled holes of small diameter for sawing a jigsaw;
now you can start installing eurolining from one of the corners. It is advisable to carry out this work with an assistant so that one person can hold the lining in a leveled position, and the second one at that time screwed the screws into the spike to fix the board on the frame. The spike should be facing the corner.
So that the distillation does not crack, before screwing in the screws, be sure to drill holes of the appropriate diameter for them;

after that, you need to put the kleimers on the bottom shelf of the groove so that they go all the way, and then fix them on the frame rails with self-tapping screws or even nails;
now you need to bring the crest of the next board into the groove of the installed eurolining. Sometimes the comb fits tightly into the grooves, in which case the board must be hammered with a special mallet or with an ordinary hammer through a wooden block.

From the side of the groove, the second board is also attached to the crate with clamps, the only thing before doing this, put a level on the end and make sure that the board is vertical. According to this principle, the entire surface of the walls is sheathed.

This work is almost completed. By the same principle, the lining of the ceiling with eurolining is carried out.

Before covering the ceiling with clapboard, it is necessary to seal all the cracks. To do this, you can use building sealant.

Protective treatment

To make the finish durable, the lining must be coated with a protective compound. When choosing how to process eurolining on a balcony, you should consider the result that you want to see in the end.

If the task is to give the lining some kind of shade, you can use decorative impregnation. If you plan to cover the surface with varnish, then complex protective impregnation is suitable. It increases the moisture resistance of wood, protects it from negative biological influences, and also makes the material fireproof due to the presence of a flame retardant in the composition.

Instructions for processing eurolining with impregnation looks like this:

first of all, you need to treat the surface with a fine sandpaper;
then the surface treatment is carried out by impregnation. There is one caveat here - the liquid is not applied like paint or varnish, but rubbed;
six hours later, the procedure must be repeated again.

It must be said that detailed instructions usually available on the packaging with the composition. Therefore, before you get started, be sure to read it.

After the surface dries, in order to give the finish a finished look, it is necessary to install additional elements - these are wooden corners and skirting boards. To fasten them, you should use small carnations, which are also called window studs.

Here, in fact, is all the information on how to sheathe a balcony with eurolining.

Conclusion

As you can see, the installation of euro lining as a whole is a fairly simple job. The only thing is that it is necessary to adhere to the technology described above, so that the finish is neat and durable.

For more information, see the video in this article. If you have any difficulties with the installation of the lining or have other questions, ask them in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

September 12, 2016

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