How to insulate floors in a cold attic. Ways to insulate the attic of a private house with your own hands

When insulating a house, be sure to pay attention to the laws of physics. According to them, the air heated in the rooms will rise to the ceiling. If the attic is not sufficiently insulated, then the heat will escape to the outside, and this whole process can be called heat loss.

In order not to heat the street and keep more heat in the house, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation of the ceiling. If you still do not know whether it is worth doing these works, then you should take into account that through the roof and goes in the amount of 25 to 40%. This data is especially relevant for houses with a cold roof.

Thermal insulation of the floor will perform three functions at once, which are necessary to create a comfortable microclimate. The material will soundproof, which will keep the house quiet during wind and rain. IN winter period insulation will eliminate heat loss and through which the heated air freely escapes. Thermal insulation is also needed in the summer heat, because with its help you can create a barrier to the path of heated air. Even in the hottest weather, the interior of the house will remain cool.

Material selection

If you are planning to insulate the ceiling of a cold attic, then you need to understand the variety of materials. The type of insulation you choose must be able to withstand a wide temperature range from -30 to +30 °C. It should not freeze at low temperatures and release harmful substances when heated. It is important to purchase fire-resistant thermal insulation. This is true for wired.

It is better if the insulation is moisture resistant so that it does not lose its properties when wet. It should not quickly caking in order to fulfill its purpose for as long as possible. Insulation of the cold attic ceiling can be done with rolls, slabs or This is true for the floor of wooden beams. Whereas if you have to work with concrete slabs, then bulk or slab materials should be purchased.

As mats and plates today are produced:

• Styrofoam;
• seaweed;
• mineral wool;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• straw.

As for roll insulation, they are offered for sale in the following varieties:

• stone wool;
• mineral wool;
• glass wool;
• algae ladders.

When choosing bulk materials for insulating a cold attic floor, you may prefer:

• expanded clay;
• reeds;
• straw;
• buckwheat tyrsa;
• ecowool;
• sawdust;
• slag;
• foam granules.

Features of mineral wool insulation

The use of basalt wool

Basalt insulation is made from gabbro-basalt rocks and acts as the best option for thermal insulation of the ceiling from the side of the attic. The fibers of this material are more plastic, therefore they are not so brittle. They are well pressed into mats with sufficient strength.

When deciding to insulate the ceiling of a cold attic with basalt wool, you get at your disposal a material that copes well with the impact external factors, so it can be laid from the side of an unheated room. Insulation is sold in slabs or rolls, which can have different densities. Sometimes there is a foil layer on one of the sides, which can enhance the insulating effect, because the heat will be reflected into the room.

About the dangers of mineral wool

All mineral wools have one common drawback, which is expressed in a binder consisting of phenol-formaldehyde resins. During operation, they are constantly released into the air, which can be hazardous to human health. Therefore, it is impossible to consider this thermal insulation as completely environmentally safe. Basalt wool is laid on the same principle as mineral wool.

The use of extruded polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene, which is also called polystyrene foam, is not a very dense material. It can be used when the floor is made of beams and logs. Extruded polystyrene foam is stronger and denser than regular foam. Before laying the surface is leveled.

On the warm side of the floor, there is no need to cover the vapor barrier, because concrete slabs have almost no vapor permeability. Insulation of the concrete floor of a cold attic involves laying a vapor barrier film. The next layer is the insulation boards, which are staggered. Joints are filled mounting foam. As soon as it dries and hardens, the canvases are poured with a concrete solution with a thickness of 6 cm. After the screed dries, it can be used as a floor. A floor covering can be laid on the surface.

The use of penoplex

If you insulate the attic, this will not only increase the duration of operation of the truss system, but also the roofing, as well as increase the level of thermal protection of residential premises under the attic. Insulation of the ceiling of a cold attic with foam plastic has replaced other technologies that were used quite widely in construction. In this case, we are talking about the use of glass wool, expanded clay and sea grass.

Modern choice - "Penoplex-panel"

In rural areas, the floor of an unheated attic is still insulated with clay and wood shavings. For sale today is the "Penoplex-panel", which is specially designed for cold attics. If you neglect the work on the thermal insulation of the room above the living space, this can cause the insulation to get wet, which occurs due to condensation. Sometimes, under appropriate conditions, the roof structure even begins to collapse, which is especially important with constant dampness.

Is it worth it to use metal fasteners

When the attic floor is not insulated, icicles and frost are constantly formed. Large heat losses were mentioned above, they are caused by a weak level of thermal protection. When developing a scheme for insulating the ceiling of a cold attic using penoplex, you must take into account the features of how the floor nodes will join with thermal insulation. The manufacturer does not recommend the use of metal fasteners, because they contribute to the formation of cold bridges, which reduces the level of thermal protection.

To create a heat-insulating cake, a leveling screed is laid on the floors. Next, a vapor barrier in the form of polyethylene is covered. The next layer will be foam. Do not forget about the presence of a separating layer in the form of polyethylene. At the last stage, a cement-sand screed is poured.

Thermal insulation of a cold attic floor may involve working with sheet material in the form of plywood or OSB. In this case, a vapor barrier is laid on the surface, wooden beams and foam insulation. You can cover it with sheet material in the form of GVL or DSP.

Finally

Warming a cold attic allows you to create a border between cold and heat. Due to the formation of condensate in the attic floor area, appropriate conditions arise that can contribute to impressive heat losses. Proper floor insulation allows you to create a barrier with a low degree of thermal conductivity.

To make the roof space of a private house warm and even residential, it is necessary to insulate the attic from all sides - along the gables and roof slopes. This business is rather difficult and troublesome, given the slopes of the attic walls, to which the insulation will have to be attached. Here it is important to withstand the technology, so that the heat-insulating "pie" has served for more than a dozen years and at the same time retains heat well. Therefore, the question is how to properly insulate with your own hands cold attic, is worth considering in more detail.

Insulation options

Before considering the list of materials, it makes sense to clarify what the concept of "insulate the attic" means, since the choice of insulation depends on this. Some homeowners invest in this concept the insulation of the ceiling and the hatch to the attic in order to reduce the heat loss of the house, and the under-roof space itself will remain cold. Others mean the thermal insulation of the roof slopes from the inside with insufficiently insulated ceilings, as was done in old houses with clay.

Still others want to make the attic space exploitable and warm, for which, again, it is necessary to insulate the walls of the attic, which are roof slopes and side gables. It is about such thermal insulation that will be discussed in detail later. If we are talking about warming the floor of a cold attic, then the choice of materials here is quite large:

• expanded clay;
• wood waste (sawdust);
• glass wool in rolls (such as ISOVER or URSA);
• plate or rolled mineral wool (ROCKWOOL, KNAUF);
• boards made of foamed polymers (foam plastic, extruded polystyrene foam).

Note. The list does not include options for insulation with polyurethane foam and ecowool due to their high cost, but we have given the most popular materials for the attic floor. In addition, insulating the attic floor with sprayed polyurethane foam with your own hands will not work without special equipment.

Now, from the list above, we single out those heaters that are most often used to insulate sloping attic walls. At a cost, foam plastic is the cheapest, and its thermal resistance is high, as is the ability to repel moisture. One problem - the material is flammable. Therefore, for those homeowners who are worried about fire safety your home, it is better to buy mineral wool based on basalt fiber. Only mineral wool absorbs moisture well, so it will be necessary to provide for its removal, which will be discussed later.

A few words about glass wool, which is also quite suitable for thermal insulation of the attic. It doesn't burn either, but high temperature will not be able to withstand, the material is charred at 200 ° C or more. If it is planned to make the attic room residential, then glass wool does not belong there at all, it is harmful to human health.

Warming with mineral wool

As mentioned above, mineral wool is a porous material and is able to absorb moisture, as well as pass vapor through itself. Even if this insulation is protected on both sides with a vapor-tight film, then due to the temperature difference in the street and inside the house, a dew point will appear in the thickness of the wool. As a result, condensation will begin to form from the air that is already in the open pores of the material.

When insulating the attic with mineral wool with your own hands, you need to learn one rule: the insulation is isolated from moisture only on one side - the inside, and a ventilation gap (air) is required from the outside. Thanks to him, moisture from the cotton wool will be removed, thereby maintaining its thermal insulation properties.

Also, glass - and mineral wool is afraid of direct contact with water, which is why it instantly gets wet and ceases to be a heater. This means that from the side of the street it must be protected from wind and precipitation, while providing access to the same side of water vapor. That is why it is more difficult to insulate the attic with mineral wool than with foam plastic, which has a vapor barrier. The diagram below shows the correct "pie" of thermal insulation of sloping attic walls from the inside:

As can be seen in the diagram, the insulation is laid in the openings between the rafters, but at first it is laid between the rafter boards and the roofing. waterproofing film- diffusion membrane. It is she who protects the mineral wool from direct moisture, passing all the vapors out into the air, from where they are carried away by the ventilation air. The air must be arranged under the entire plane of the roofing, as shown in the diagram:

Since the diffusion membrane is at the same time a protection against water that can enter its surface from the outside through the slots in the slate, the film sheets must be laid out horizontally over the rafters, starting from the bottom. The canvases are laid with an overlap of 100 mm, and the joints are sealed with adhesive tape. When it comes to warming an old house, where the slate is nailed to the boards of the crate without a membrane, you will have to mount it in strips vertically between the rafters.

Important. It is necessary to fasten the membrane strips to the side surface of the rafter board using a stapler and as often as possible, leaving a 5 cm wide air gap on top.

The next stage is the laying of the insulation by surprise in the gap between the rafters, for which it is cut into strips, whose width is a couple of centimeters more than this gap. By the way, mineral wool manufacturers make plates with a width of 600 mm, and rolls - 1200 mm, adjusting to the standard pitch of the rafters. In this case, additional fastening of the insulation is not required; vapor barrier film and mounted interior decoration.

Like the sloping walls of the attic, the gables also need to be insulated. But here the composition of the "pie" depends on building material this roof element. If it is made of brick or timber, then it would be more correct to insulate the pediment of the attic from the outside, guided by the following scheme:

It is clear that such thermal insulation implies external insulation of the entire house, which is not always possible due to various reasons. Then we continue to insulate the attic from the inside, vertically installing on brick wall wooden bars for further installation of insulation. Before that, do not forget to lay a diffusion membrane under the bars. The same is done if the pediment has an old design, - wooden frame with outer cladding. The "pie" of insulation then looks like this:

Note. The same "pie" is used for internal insulation brick gable attic. The masonry here plays the role of the outer skin of the boards shown in the diagram.

Foam insulation

It should be noted that it is somewhat easier to insulate the attic with foam plastic than with mineral wool. First of all, because of the vapor impermeability of this insulation, so it is not necessary to arrange an internal vapor barrier. But a diffusion membrane and air are needed in any case, because wood also participates in the “pie”, which must also give moisture somewhere. So the first stage of do-it-yourself attic insulation is repeated as described in the previous section.

Styrofoam with a density of 25 kg / m3 is cut in such a way that it can be tightly inserted between the rafters. Then all joints should be blown out with polyurethane mounting foam, due to which air circulation through the cracks is excluded and additional fastening of the insulation is provided. Then everything is simple: the interior trim of plasterboard or other facing material is attached to the rafters.

In the same way, the gables are thermally insulated. It should be noted that this technology can also be used when insulating the attic with extruded polystyrene foam (foam foam). This modern insulation has higher rates than polystyrene, including strength. If there will be a need to lay foam in 2 layers, the second can be attached to the first with ordinary self-tapping screws and glued with polyurethane glue.

Insulation of ventilation pipes in the attic

In modern private houses, the attic is often a technical floor, where ventilation units and pipes for moving air are located - air ducts. If the temperature there is significantly lower than in the premises, then the air ducts must be insulated in without fail and that's why:

• the air passing through them is heated by energy carriers paid by the homeowner. It is unacceptable for the air to lose heat in a cold attic for nothing;
• due to the temperature difference inside and outside the air ducts, condensate will constantly be released.

The cheapest way to insulate ventilation pipes is to buy rolled mineral wool and wrap the air duct with it, fixing it with twine.

After that, a layer of mineral wool is covered with a special foil to prevent moisture from entering. But in a compressed form, the thermal resistance of the roll insulation decreases, so it is better to use ready-made foam shells. They are put on the air duct on both sides and fixed with a knitting wire.

Rectangular ventilation pipes are most conveniently insulated with self-adhesive polyethylene foam material. This is an excellent vapor-tight insulation, in which one side is coated with a sticky layer that adheres well to the metal surface.

Conclusion

In fact, there are more materials and methods for insulating the attic, but we have brought the most affordable of them for do-it-yourself work. For example, a layer of polyurethane foam does not require any “pie” at all, but it can only be applied if special units are available. So at the moment, foam with mineral wool remain the most popular heaters, as well as the technology for their application.

Thermal insulation of a residential building will always be main task, problem solving heating. After all, you must admit that the wrong house will be warm house, which is heated, and the one that retains this heat. Whatever good heating however, without thermal insulation, efforts will be in vain. And in order to reduce heating costs and make the house really warm, you need to think about saving heat.

Insulating their home, many begin to finish the attic. Is it necessary? Yes, because it is through the ceiling that a lot of heat escapes. And if you take care of its insulation, then the ceiling will not let heat out. Everyone knows from physics lessons that warm air goes up to the ceiling. And if it passes heat, then such air will simply go outside. Thanks to this article, you will learn which attic insulation to choose in order to reduce heat loss.

What is attic insulation

What is attic insulation work? The technology is quite simple: the insulation material can be laid on the floor, in the space between the floor beams and additionally between the roof rafters. If we talk about the insulation of the room, which is located at the bottom of the attic, then it is enough to insulate the floor. In the event that you want to store something in the attic or use it as an attic from time to time, the roof is also insulated.

What materials can be laid in the attic for insulation? In this article, we will look at different variants and their pros and cons. Immediately, we note that there are several types of heaters:

1. Slab.
2. Roll.
3. Sprayable.
4. Bulk.

Each of the insulation options is good in its own way. We will select the best heaters that are suitable for this purpose. You must understand that the choice is yours. Our site will offer you only a list of proven attic insulation materials that have won a lot of positive feedback. So, we will consider the following options:

• classic - mineral wool;
• irreplaceable foam;
• expensive, but very high-quality PPU;
• simple and cheap bulk materials such as expanded clay, sawdust or slag.

What are they? What is the laying technology of each insulation and its advantages? Let's find out further.

Warming with mineral wool

Perhaps only a grandmother in the village has not heard of mineral wool, and that is not a fact. This is the most common insulation for home insulation, which is used both for self-insulation and by professional teams. I would especially like to note basalt wool, which does not burn at all and has excellent characteristics. Why did you love mineral wool so much? Let's look at its positive aspects.

1. Ecological purity.
2. The property keeps its shape well.
3. Light weight, which does not load the structure.
4. Low thermal conductivity.
5. It is not spoiled by rodents.
6. She doesn't burn.
7. Soundproofing.
8. It has a "breathing effect", creating a good microclimate.
9. Relatively low cost.
10. Easy to work with insulating material.

Why is this attic insulation so good? Mineral wool is sold both in slabs and in rolls. It keeps its shape well, and you can easily insulate the floor of the attic, as well as the roof. It is enough to lay mineral wool in the space between the beams and sheathe everything with hydro and vapor barrier. This is very important, since the main disadvantage of the material is that it is afraid of moisture. It will destroy the insulation, which will eventually lose its original properties.

You can see the technology of laying mineral wool from the video.

Foam insulation

Well, if a grandmother from the village could not hear about mineral wool, then the foam plastic is definitely familiar to her. One of the simple and affordable insulation materials, which is widely used by builders. The main advantage of polystyrene is its low cost along with good performance. It is much denser than cotton wool, so it is easier to work with foam. It works great and fits in the right place. What else can be noted?

1. Low thermal conductivity (lower than mineral wool).
2. Small cost.
3. Affordable price.
4. Soundproofing.
5. Immune to moisture.
6. Ease of installation.
7. Holds its shape well.

However, the low cost affects other aspects. There are more disadvantages to polystyrene. For example, it burns very well. One spark is enough and the material will immediately begin to melt. In addition, it is not vapor-permeable, you will not get a breathing effect for walls. And if it is not properly protected, then the rodents will pretty sharpen the material.

Nevertheless, polystyrene is and will be one of the popular heaters. Fires are an infrequent phenomenon, in the attic the breathing effect is not so important, and if you protect the material, then rodents are not terrible. For the price this is a great option.

PPU insulation

One of the most expensive options for insulation, due to the complexity of the process. PPU is a representative of sprayed materials such as penoizol. The insulation technology, at first glance, is simple: it is enough to spray the composition from the unit onto the surface, it will increase several times and fill all the cracks. On the one hand, this is true, but the catch is that such equipment is not easy to find. And it's not even the availability of units, but the ability to use them. Such work is entrusted only to experienced specialists who have access to the equipment.

The components that make up polyurethane foam are mixed in the unit in an ideal ratio, and the finished composition is sprayed onto the surface, which increases in size. Why is this expensive method so good?

1. Ecological purity of the material.
2. Light weight.
3. The lowest thermal conductivity.
4. A monolithic structure is created without seams, which can become cold bridges.
5. Immune to moisture.
6. Adhesion to almost any surface.
7. biostability.
8. Soundproofing.
9. It is not eaten by rodents.
10. The quality of insulation is top notch.

As you can see, there are really a lot of advantages of insulation. But they are offset by some factors. Firstly, an insulated attic will not breathe. Secondly, you will not be able to do the insulation yourself without specialists. Thirdly, such a pleasure for the attic will be expensive. Is it worth it - you decide.

Warming with bulk materials

This option can be called the simplest and "on hastily» without problems. All that is required is to pour the selected insulation of a certain layer. What can be used?

1. Expanded clay.
2. Sawdust.
3. Slag.

Expanded clay

Insulation material is balls that are poured onto the floor. You realized that they will not be able to insulate the walls. It is divided into fractions: expanded clay sand, crushed stone or gravel. What is the feature of the material?

1. Does not burn.
2. Environmentally friendly.
3. Durable.
4. Frost-resistant.
5. Has high strength.
6. Light weight.
7. Sound and heat insulation.

Insulation material is poured over a layer of roofing material, at least 15 cm thick. It all depends on the attic floor and the properties of thermal insulation. So that you have the opportunity to walk on the floor surface, from above you can perform concrete screed, whose thickness is about 5 cm. It remains to arrange a flooring made of wood, chipboard or other material.

As for sawdust and slag, the technology is almost identical. The laid material will save heat, but not as good as the options above. However, labor costs are minimal. If you don't want to bother then this is a good one. Alternative option conventional insulation.

Summing up

As you can see, the variety of materials for attic insulation is really large. Each of them is good in their own way. If you are limited in funds, then you can use foam. And when there are funds, then choose between mineral wool and polyurethane foam. Some combine insulation materials, leveling the shortcomings of the foam. How? The bottom layer is made of thick foam, and a thin layer of mineral wool is laid on top. Simple and fireproof. However, remember, no matter what insulation you choose to cover the attic, stick to the technology of its installation. This is the only way to achieve high-quality attic insulation.

August 27, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobby: mobile connection, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

If you live in apartment building, then you hardly ever thought about attic insulation. What's more, you probably didn't know there was such a thing. technical room in the building, unless, of course, they ran to the roof as a child.

However, in country house or a country cottage (which I am currently building for my son), the under-roof space plays a huge role. Often there is an open expansion tank heating system, ventilation pipes, chimneys. And sometimes they equip living quarters - attic.

Therefore, I will not talk for a long time about how important thermal insulation measures are for this room, but I will simply tell you how to insulate the attic of a private house using the example of my own son's country home.

I think the described technology will be useful to everyone who builds or is going to build a dwelling outside the city with their own hands.

Thermal insulation materials

Attics have been insulated for as long as I can remember. My great-grandfather and grandfather used hay and straw, sawdust and shavings for this purpose, and some in their village also used dry leaves from trees.

Dad was already a more “advanced” builder and cold - in a private house and in the country house he insulated the attic with expanded clay and old soldier's blankets. By the way, expanded clay granules are also used in modern construction.

I won't tell you now what better option of the above, as I can offer more technologically advanced and efficient thermal insulation materials for attic insulation.

However, before that, I’ll note what technical characteristics a heat insulator should have in order to be used for the described work:

1. Light weight. The material after laying should not exert a large load on the attic floor, roof rafters and load-bearing walls.

Otherwise, even during construction, more durable building materials will have to be included in the project, which increases the amount of the final estimate.

1. Security. The material used for insulation should not harm human health.

Therefore, both the floor of a cold attic and the roof must be insulated with heat insulators that do not emit hazardous chemical compounds into the air. Especially if you plan to equip a living room there in the future.

1. Ease of installation. The less effort you need to spend on the installation of heat insulators, the better, right?

In addition, there is not much space in the under-roof space of some houses, so working there is not very convenient. I always try to buy materials that do not require the use of sophisticated equipment.

1. Low thermal conductivity. The better this indicator is, the smaller the layer of heat-insulating material should be used. Respectively, inner space the attic will not decrease much.

Again, I consider this important, since I plan to make an attic in my son's dacha in the attic. But I think it’s not very interesting for you to lay thermal insulation with a thickness of 20-30 cm.

1. hydrophobic properties. In attics, air often has high humidity, which reduces the efficiency of the heat-insulating layer.

I advise choosing materials that are either treated with water-repellent compounds, or those that do not change their technical characteristics when wet.

1. Fire safety. The roof is where there is a risk of fire due to improper installation or blockage of the chimney.

Therefore, when choosing a material, I would give preference to those varieties that do not ignite under the action of an open flame and do not support combustion.

Of course, I failed to choose the perfect insulation that 100% meets all the listed requirements. But still I will tell about those with whom I had to work.

So, I insulated attics:

• polyurethane foam;
• foam;
• mineral wool;
• expanded clay.

I'll tell you more about them.

polyurethane foam

The raw material for the manufacture of this heat insulator is plastic. Insulating the attic with polyurethane foam is a pleasure, but this requires special equipment. The fact is that the insulator is applied by spraying, for which compressors are used.

But you do not need to buy screws, adhesive mixtures, crates and so on. And the polyurethane foam itself is applied very tightly, leaving no gaps through which cold air can penetrate into the under-roof space.

After hardening, the insulation becomes rigid, therefore it additionally strengthens the structure. The material has antiseptic properties; mold, fungus and other microorganisms do not multiply on its surface.

If you need to insulate ventilation pipe in the attic, you can also use polyurethane foam. Only not sprayed, but in the form of ready-made shells with protective layer from aluminum foil. They simply need to be fixed to the pipelines with adhesive tape or plastic ties.

The biggest drawback of the material in question is the high price. However, if you consider the total cost of work, then you can save money, because in this case additional hydro and vapor barrier is not required.

Styrofoam

This heater, as well as similar to it technical specifications expanded polystyrene, are widely used for warming rooms under the roof. I personally prefer the expanded polystyrene obtained by extrusion. It is more durable, does not burn, has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity and is not damaged by rodents.

The cost of insulation is quite affordable, and anyone, even the most inexperienced summer resident, can lay it in the attic. Polystyrene is processed with hand construction tools and fastened with dowels.

Mineral wool

Fibrous heat insulators are a versatile material. Mineral fiber-based heaters are rolled, slab, in the form of a dry mix, and so on. They are great for insulating attic floors and roofs.

Basalt fiber, from which mineral wool is made, has a very high melting point. Therefore, this insulation can be used for installation on chimneys, the surface of which can be very hot.

There is one point here. The insulation is not waterproof and, when moistened, may lose its heat-shielding properties. To avoid this, when insulating, it is necessary to install hydro- and vapor barrier membranes. Or buy those varieties of mineral wool that are treated with special water-repellent compounds.

The bottleneck of some types of mineral insulation is environmental friendliness. In the manufacture of basalt mats, a certain amount of formaldehyde resins is used, which can be harmful to human health. Especially during the installation process.

Expanded clay

Granules of this material, as I already told you, were also used by my father, insulating his first cottage. Expanded clay has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity and weighs a little. However, it is loose, so it can only be used to insulate the floor of the under-roof space.

But the installation process itself does not require any tricks. You just need to pour it on the floor, and then properly protect it from moisture with a moisture-proof membrane. If you are going to equip the attic later, you can cover it with a screed on top, and then lay a decorative coating.

Independent insulation of the attic space

We sort of decided on the most popular heat-insulating materials, now I’ll tell you how to properly insulate the under-roof space so that you can equip an attic there in the future.

Let's take up the question of how to lay the insulation under the crate, because this method will allow you to stuff the decorative material you have chosen without any problems in the future.

In my son’s attic, I decided to use mineral wool, but I’ll tell you right away about foam plastic, since the work technologies are similar, and it’s easier to work with foam plastic if you are a beginner builder.

The whole process of warming consists of several stages:

• preparation;
• waterproofing;
• laying a heat insulator;
• vapor barrier;
• arrangement of the crate and installation of decorative trim;
• insulation of engineering communications;
• floor insulation.

I will tell you about each stage in more detail.

Preparatory activities

Let's start, as usual, with preparation, because it is unlikely that your attic is already ready for construction work.

After all, in almost 100% of cases this room is used as a trash storage, where all unnecessary things are taken down (and sometimes they are taken from the apartment). In the attic of my son's dacha, it was clean, since the house is new, but in my home, when sorting through the rubble, I found old books, clothes, several family heirlooms (which my wife did not consider as such) and much more.

In addition, if you have tried to perform insulation before, then I advise you to get rid of any traces of this process. For example, remove sawdust, scraps of felt, construction debris, and so on from all cracks. Believe me, I have insulated attics more than once and I know how important it is.

By the way. And drive all the spiders out of the attic, then clear the room of the cobwebs. After all, you will build an attic for yourself or your children, and not for any insects.

Last moment. Take it to the attic necessary tools and provide lighting. It is unlikely that you have sockets there, so you will have to stretch out an extension cord with a light bulb. Although these measures seem obvious to you, since I had to return to the city for electric, since not a single extension cord at the construction site reached from the switchboard to the attic.

Waterproofing

A waterproofing membrane is needed in order to protect the thermal insulation layer itself and the room under the roof from excessive moisture. This is especially important if the roof has been laid for a long time (for example, you are insulating the attic of an old house) and roofing materials used not the most modern.

The waterproof film is installed directly on the roof structure. It must be stretched and overlapped so that after the end of the work an airtight layer is formed. You can fasten the material with a construction stapler with staples.

Insulation laying

The heat-insulating material, as I said, must be mounted on a pre-mounted crate. However, if you want to save a little, you do not need to design a separate frame. His role is great rafter system roofs.

In the latter case, in order to press the material and be able to mount the decorative sheathing, it will only be necessary to equip a light counter-lattice at a certain distance from the surface of the heat insulator. Then you get a small ventilation gap that removes excess moisture from the insulating layer.

So, the scheme of work on laying insulation is as follows:

1. Rolls of mineral wool must be cut so that their width corresponds to the distance between the rafter supports. After that, lay under the roof surface, gluing to the surface or temporarily attaching with wooden slats.

1. To make installation easier, mineral mats can be used.. Their width should slightly exceed the distance between the rafters, so that after installation they suddenly fall into place and do not fall out.

1. The foam must be cut as accurately as possible so that it comes close to the installation site.. The gaps between the insulation panels will greatly reduce the effectiveness of insulation measures, so they need to be blown out with mounting foam.

vapor barrier

After laying the insulation, you need to install a vapor barrier membrane. It will protect the insulating material from the penetration of moisture to it, which is formed during the life of people.

For vapor barrier, special films are used that do not allow the heat insulator to be moistened, but do not prevent air infiltration through the building envelope. As a result, a microclimate comfortable for living will be formed in the attic, when viewed from the point of view of humidity.

So, after installing the insulation, it is necessary to attach a vapor barrier to the rafter supports (which act as a crate). This should be done with a stapler, gently pulling the film.

The edges of the material overlap each other to prevent the mineral wool from getting wet. To further insure yourself against surprises, I recommend gluing the seams with adhesive tape.

Vapor barrier films allow air to pass only in one direction. Therefore, before installation, make sure that you have unfolded the membrane to the desired surface.

Control grille

Having finished with the films, you can begin to complete the operations for finishing the walls (well, or the roof, that's how you look). I will use it for this, but in the same way you can fix OSB boards, drywall, lining, and so on.

Here, too, there is an opportunity to significantly save on the purchase of materials and reduce the time for all work. The fact is that the main details of the crate will be powerful rafter legs, and you will only have to make the crossbars, which will serve as additional stiffeners for the skin.

The material for the transverse frame can be wooden lath or galvanized profile. The essence of this will not change. The parts just need to be screwed from above to the rafters so that they are located at right angles to them. The step between adjacent elements depends on the decorative finish, I made 30 cm so that the skin does not sag under load.

Itself decorative trim also depends on your imagination. I'm going to glue the wallpaper on top for now to save money, and then I'll come up with something prettier. You can do the same.

Just before sticking the wallpaper, do not forget to putty the seams between the plywood sheets and perform other necessary operations (priming, and so on).

Warming of engineering communications

If you do not provide for the creation of an attic, it is imperative to insulate the ventilation ducts in the cold attic, as well as, if available, pipes for heating, water supply and smoke exhaust (what term did you come up with).

Of course, you can use mineral wool for this, wrapping it around pipes, wrapping it with roofing material and fixing it with wire. But why complicate your life if you can buy ready-made shells for pipes of the desired diameter (made of polyethylene foam, polyurethane foam, polystyrene, and so on). They just need to be snapped onto the pipe and wrapped with adhesive tape to be sure.

The cost of such insulators is low, so you definitely will not go broke.

Attic floor insulation

The floor is a horizontal surface, so it can be easily insulated bulk material. For example, expanded clay. But since I started working with mineral wool (styrofoam), I won’t buy expanded clay, I’ll limit myself to what I have at my disposal.

So, the attic insulation technology is as follows:

1. First you need to clean the surface of dust, accumulated debris, foreign objects etc.
2. Then install the support lags. I make them from wooden blocks with a section of 20 by 10 cm. You can select the height of the lags based on the thickness of the thermal insulation material you have.

1. The entire surface is covered with a layer of waterproofing. Be sure to check the tightness so that the mineral wool does not get wet, as this may affect its technical characteristics.

1. Cotton wool is laid on the waterproofing layer. Choose a material that is specifically designed for insulating horizontal surfaces. For example, Izover KT37.

1. From above, the vapor barrier membrane is again stretched, onto which the facing material is stuffed. I used plywood, which I plan to cover with linoleum.

If you do not plan to use the attic as a living space, then you can not insulate the roof, but only insulate the floor. In this case, you need to pay attention to some features:

1. Wood for lags and sheathing must be treated with hydrophobic, fire-fighting and antiseptic compounds in order to maximize its service life.
2. To enter, it is better to use an insulated hatch to the attic, since it is this structural element that is often the source of large heat losses.

Now we can say with confidence that the insulation of the floor (or the ceiling from the side of the cold attic) has been completed in full. And in order to achieve maximum efficiency of thermal insulation measures, I still advise you to make an insulated hatch with a ladder, as described in the video in this article.

Output

As you can see, there is nothing terrible and heavy here. If you liked the material or have any questions, you can ask them in the comments. I would also be grateful for stories about how you perform attic insulation in a private house with your own hands.

August 27, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

For a comfortable stay in a private residential or country house it is very important how warm and cozy it is.

Feeling warm, maintaining an acceptable comfortable temperature with minimal heating costs - important aspect living in the house.

Insulating the walls of the house, many neglect the insulation of the attic.

Even if the attic is not residential, it is important to insulate the floor between the attic and the adjacent residential floor during the construction phase in order to reduce heat loss from the living quarters.

But it is possible to make insulation in an already operated building to improve its properties. Today we will talk about how to properly insulate the attic of a private house, about the types of materials and methods of insulation.

Thermal insulation materials for attic insulation

How to insulate an attic? As a heater, you can use the following heat-insulating materials, which the construction market offers us in a wide range:

• - mineral wool;
• - polystyrene foam boards (polystyrene);
• - polyurethane foam (PPU);
• - bulk materials (expanded clay, slag, sawdust).

Mineral wool - the most popular material in private housing construction, widely used everywhere. Mineral wool, depending on the material from which it is made, is divided into three types: glass wool, stone wool and slag wool.

It is used for insulation of interfloor ceilings, enclosing structures and roofs. Mineral wool is a non-combustible material with a low thermal conductivity and high sound insulation properties, resistant to aggressive environments.

Perfect for warming a cold attic, as the load on the ceiling between the attic and the ceiling of the living space is minimized. But it is necessary to work in protective clothing and a mask, as glass wool particles, getting on the skin, cause itching and leave small cuts.

Styrofoam boards are also traditional insulation. This is the most economical type of insulation, which is produced in the form of foam granule boards. Rigid thermoplastic is 98% air and 2% polystyrene.

Expanded polystyrene boards almost do not absorb moisture, are resistant to fungus and decay; are lightweight and easy to handle and install. The disadvantage is that the foam is flammable, and when burned, it releases toxic substances that are harmful to human health.

Polyurethane foam (PPU) belongs to the group of gas-filled plastics. Rigid polyurethane foam has found wide application in construction as insulation and sound insulation, due to its low thermal conductivity and vapor permeability.

Polyurethane foam can be produced directly at the construction site, the spraying procedure is quite simple. It is possible to insulate surfaces complex shape, PPU is ideal for repairing old roofs and ceilings, but requires special equipment and skilled workers.

Most in a simple way insulation of the attic floor of a cold unused attic is insulation with bulk materials, for example, expanded clay .

Expanded clay is poured over a layer of roofing material, the thickness of expanded clay depends on the design of the floor and its thermal insulation properties, but, as a rule, it should be at least 15 cm. from sheets of chipboard and other materials.

We carry out attic insulation with our own hands

If the height of the attic space does not allow, over time, to arrange a residential or auxiliary room there, then it is enough to insulate only the ceiling. To do this, first of all, it is necessary to waterproof it, then lay the selected insulation between the floor beams, on top of which a vapor barrier film is overlapped.

The joints of the film are closed with adhesive tape or special glue. On the reinforced concrete floor for laying mineral wool, it is necessary to make a crate, the step of which is equal to the width of the insulating material (roll or plate), and the thickness of the bars is equal to the thickness of the insulation.

In the attic room, in addition to the floor, it is necessary to insulate the roof from the inside. Work is carried out similarly to floor insulation.

Mineral wool insulation is laid between the rafters, a vapor barrier is performed on top, then the crate is stuffed.

Attached to the crate moisture resistant drywall, fiberboard sheets or lining. An air gap remains between the insulation and the fine finishing of the walls.

If foam or expanded polystyrene is used for roof insulation, then an air gap is not required.

Before starting work, it is necessary to inspect all structures. Often, some wooden elements need to be replaced. Next, you need to treat the wooden elements with an antiseptic. Produce installation work on the device of hidden electrical wiring.

In an unused attic, air vents must be provided for ventilation. Usually they are made on the gables of the roof. IN mansard roof they also arrange vents for free air circulation under the skin - in the ridge and overhangs.

Modern roll materials for insulation are often produced with a foil top layer, which serves as a vapor barrier. The plates are laid with a foil layer inside the room, fastened together with adhesive tape.

Insulation of the attic is not a luxury, but a necessity, as it will later save energy costs and the costs will more than pay off.

Useful video