Installation of metal tiles: step-by-step instructions for self-finishing the roof. How to cover the roof with a metal tile Do-it-yourself metal tile flooring

Metal tile - modern roofing material, successfully combining an attractive appearance ceramic tiles with light weight and inexpensive price metal coatings. Its virtues are considered good performance characteristics, corrosion resistance and long service life. It is important that, knowing the features of this material and having basic building skills, you can easily cover the roof with metal tiles on your own. Do-it-yourself installation of a metal tile is reminiscent of the process of creating a multilayer cake, the components of which improve and complement each other. In this article, we will describe step by step a proven "recipe" for creating a reliable, high-quality roofing from a metal profile.

Laying metal tiles with your own hands is a proven way to quickly and inexpensively cover the roof of a garage, garden or small residential building. This roofing is a type of metal profile with a wavy relief that resembles the shape of a traditional tile. The metal tile is made of galvanized steel, which is coated with a polymer coating of pural, plastisol or polyester during the production process. Roofing from this material has the following advantages:

A light weight. One square meter roofing from metal tiles weighs 3.5-4.5 kg, which allows you to increase the step between the elements of the truss frame, reducing the cost of building a roof.
Mechanical strength. The roof of this material has high strength and bearing capacity, so it can easily withstand snow and wind loads, even if the step between the rafters is large enough.
Corrosion resistance. Roofing from a metal profile is not exposed to the destructive effects of corrosion, because it is reliably protected by a zinc layer and a polymer coating.
Long service life. A do-it-yourself metal tile roof has been serving for more than 20 years, thanks to the high quality of the metal and the strength of the polymer protection.

Important! Knowing how to cover the roof with metal tiles yourself, you can save a lot, because installing a roofing costs as much as 50-70% of the cost of purchasing materials.

The composition of the roofing cake

Do-it-yourself installation of metal tiles consists in creating a multi-layer roofing pie, which consists of a vapor barrier, insulation, waterproofing and the coating itself. In order for a metal profile roof to last for a long time, it is worth choosing the right structural components that are suitable for each other and following the rules that the installation instructions prescribe. Roofing cake for metal tiles consists of the following parts:

Vapor barrier. This is the name of a film that allows steam to pass through, but blocks water and condensate, protecting the insulation from getting wet. The vapor barrier must be laid on the lower surface of the rafters and fixed with a construction stapler.
Rafter legs. To cover the roof with metal tiles with your own hands, you need to correctly calculate the step between the rafters and install them evenly on the ridge run and Mauerlat. The strength and load-bearing capacity of the roof depends on how many rafters the roofing material supports.
Thermal insulation. Thermal insulation is installed between rafter legs frame, so the step between them must correspond to the width of the insulation.
Waterproofing. Waterproofing must be laid over the rafters so that it protects the wooden frame elements from condensation or atmospheric moisture.
Crate. This element of the truss frame is used to distribute the weight of the roofing material. Roofing material must be laid on the crate. The step between its slats is chosen in accordance with the weight of the coating and the angle of inclination of the slope.
Roofing material. Do-it-yourself metal tiles are laid on the crate. For fixing use special roofing screws.

Please note that there are 2 types of metal roofing - warm and cold. cold roof differs from the warm one in the absence of a thermal insulation layer and vapor barrier in the composition of the roofing cake. This design is cheaper, but can only be used in cases where the attic or second floor is not heated.

Rafter frame and crate

Before covering the roof with metal tiles, it is necessary to assemble the truss frame. The frame is a kind of supporting skeleton of the structure, which supports its geometry, and also distributes and transfers the weight of the roof to the foundation of the structure. It is made from coniferous wood impregnated with an antiseptic and flame retardant, or metal. The metal truss system is more expensive, but can withstand heavy loads, so you can increase the step between the elements. The roof frame is assembled in the following sequence:

First of all, the Mauerlat is installed. The support beam is laid on the upper trim of the house, secured with metal studs embedded in concrete or anchor bolts. Mauerlat is made from a bar with a section of 150x150 mm and is mounted on the walls on which the roof slopes will rest. How many slopes are at the roof - so many support bars are needed.
Then puffs are installed that connect the Mauerlat in increments of 1-1.2 meters. Puffs are made from a bar 100x100 mm or 100x150 mm.
Vertical racks are installed in the middle of each puff in increments of 1-1.2 m. In order for them to stand vertically, they are supported with temporary slopes.
On top of the racks you need to lay the ridge run. This is the name of the timber that forms, the rafter legs will rest on it.
Next, it is necessary to mount the rafter legs of the frame in increments of 0.6-1.2 m. The step between the rafters depends on how much the roofing weighs, the section of the element and the width of the insulation.
The rafters must be covered with waterproofing to protect against condensation and atmospheric moisture. It is worth laying the film "in sag" so that it does not tear under the pressure of water.
Lastly, you need to mount a crate of slats with a section of 30x30 mm or sheets of moisture-resistant plywood. The step between the elements of the crate is chosen in accordance with the weight of the roofing material and how many degrees the angle between the surface of the slope and the base of the roof is. The flatter the roof, the denser the crate should be, and the smaller the step between the rivers.

Important! It is possible to cover the roof with a metal tile, regardless of its design. The minimum recommended slope for this type of roofing material is 12-15 degrees. If the roof is flatter, then the installation is carried out with the obligatory processing of the joints with a sealant to prevent leaks.

Insulation

Before laying a metal tile, you should take care of protecting the wooden frame elements from steam, condensation and moisture. Metal roofing has a high thermal conductivity, so it heats up quickly, but it also gives off heat easily, so it needs to be insulated. In the process of erecting a roof from a metal tile, 3 types of insulation are installed:

Vapor barrier. The instructions for laying the metal profile prescribe the mandatory installation of a vapor barrier on the lower surface of the rafter legs. This role is played by special membranes that allow air to pass through, but block water, preventing the insulation from getting wet. After all, with an increase in the humidity of the thermal insulation material by only 5%, its effectiveness is halved and does not recover after drying.
Thermal insulation. Insulation is laid between the rafters to keep the temperature in the house. It protects from cold air in winter and prevents heating of the under-roof space from the hot roof in summer. Used as a heater mineral wool, ecowool, glass wool, polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. How many layers of insulation are needed to protect the house from freezing is calculated in accordance with climatic conditions.
Waterproofing. A waterproofing material that protects the rafter frame and insulation from moisture ingress is laid on top of the rafter legs. Strips of film or diffuse membrane are mounted in overlapping strips to prevent water from flowing between them.

Experienced craftsmen say that it is impossible to cover the roof with metal tiles without using all three types of insulation in a complex way. Only by working in a complex, insulation, vapor barrier, and waterproofing become effective.

flooring cover

Instructions on how to properly lay a metal tile are popular with inexperienced craftsmen. To work with this unpretentious roofing material, special skills or complex tools are not required. The laying of the coating is carried out using roofing screws, a screwdriver, a building level and sealant and a circular saw with a metal disc. The process of laying a metal profile is as follows:

Before laying the metal tile, the sheets are first cut. To simplify this task, you can purchase a metal tile, the length of the sheet of which corresponds to the size of the slope, then there will be no horizontal joints during laying, and you will not have to cut the material. In other cases, to cut the coating to size, use circular saw or electric jigsaw.
Then the metal tile is laid. The bottom row is laid out first, starting from the edge of the slope. An overlap of 10-23 cm or 1-2 waves is made between the sheets. The flatter the roof, the greater the overlap.
The joints between the sheets can be treated with a silicone-based sealant to prevent leaks.
Each sheet of metal tile is fixed with galvanized self-tapping screws, equipped with a wide press washer, which closes the mounting hole from water penetration.
After laying the coating, the ridge, ends, slope cornices are formed with the help of additional elements, and drainage elements are installed.

Important! Knowing how to properly lay metal tiles, without resorting to the services of a professional team of builders, you can significantly reduce construction costs. To cope with the roofing of this practical and lightweight material can be two in 3-5 days.

Video instruction

V Lately metal roofing began to rapidly gain popularity. This is due to their installation, or rather, the ease of carrying out these works. Not all developers know how to properly cover the roof with metal tiles, so they immediately become clients for roofing companies. In order to reduce some of the costs of creating a roof, you need to do the laying of materials yourself and here I will help you.

Coating characteristics

Before you cover the roof with metal tiles, you need to understand some things. Let's start with the characteristics.

When purchasing roofing, you always need to pursue certain goals, because some types of roofing simply may not be suitable. For example, if the object of construction is a residential building, then in the attic there will always be fever, therefore, the material will be subject to the formation of frost. As for temporary buildings, everything is different here. If this is any barn, then you need to look at protective layer coatings. Some manufacturers focus only on sales and it turns out that the quality of the layers is not at all suitable for the construction industry.

I lead to the fact that if the possibility of damage to the protective surface during installation or further operation is not excluded, then it is better to take the highest quality product. The fall of a branch or bump on a cheap type of roofing surface can be fatal for it, and soon corrosion will begin to appear on the metal. It should be understood that even in the absence of trees, it is easy to scratch the protective film, for example, during loading and unloading operations or installation.

I think that this is where we can stop talking about damage and go directly to the characteristics.

A metal tile is a thin sheet of metal with a certain type of embossing. To date, there are quite a few varieties, but the most popular in private construction are: Monterrey, Cascade, Valencia, Andalusia and Shanghai. Depending on the type of surface, the parameters of the sheet itself also change.

The price of the material depends not only on the type of sheet, but also on the components included in the structure. For example, the cheapest products will be covered with unstable protection, which, at the slightest contact with something, can simply peel off. Of course, if such a coating is laid on a temporary building, then there will be no problems, but on the roof of a residential building, I would like something better.

In addition to the characteristics of the coating, it is important to know its advantages and disadvantages.

The strengths are as follows:

Small amount of sheet. Only one person can cover the roof with a metal tile, but for convenience and speed it is better to do it together. The laid coating gives a load on the base of only 3-5 kilograms per square meter. Based on this, the crate can be made light, which will save finances.

Good rigidity. Profiled metal can withstand serious temporary and permanent loads without problems. Due to this, this product is used almost all over the world, regardless of the region of residence.
Protective covering. Due to the protective layer, the metal does not corrode, therefore, it can lie on the roof for a very long time. Even the cheapest materials contain zinc and polymers.
Good service life. Before covering the roof with metal tiles, and indeed with any material, developers pay attention to the period of use. In this case, it is more than 30 years, but this is subject to surface maintenance.

Now, let's look at the disadvantages of this product.

First of all, I would like to highlight the high thermal conductivity. This property is very important for roofing, because the preservation of heat in the building depends on it. High thermal conductivity suggests that the metal will not in any way contribute to the preservation of heat, therefore, a heat-insulating layer will have to be included in the roofing cake.
Low soundproofing. Thin sheets in no way delay extraneous noise, on the contrary, amplify them. For example, you will hear a booming echo in the attic if a bird sits on the roof or a branch falls, I generally keep quiet about rain or hail. However, some residents, on the contrary, like it, but I'm not sure of the veracity of their words.
High cost. The price of some types of coverage is simply prohibitive. Now I don’t mean embossed copper or aluminum, but I’m talking about simple varieties of metal tiles. In addition, laying such material will cost about as much as it costs. If you want to save money - cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands.
Poor quality polymer layer. I have already said that the protective layers on cheap sheets are very easy to remove, so there is no need to repeat.

As you can see, there are exactly as many disadvantages as advantages, of course, I did not delve into finer details and indicate only the most important of them. Therefore, it is up to you to decide whether to lay the roof with metal tiles or not.

So, now you have learned what a metal tile is, it remains only to figure out how to properly cover the roof with it, and for this you need to get acquainted with its structure.

roofing cake

In construction, a roofing pie is called layers that run through the entire thickness of the roof. This includes not only materials, but also some elements, for example, lathing or rafters. In fact, it includes everything that can be seen in the section of the slope.

Rafter beams. These elements are considered at the design stage. If you already have a finished project, then you don’t need to bother about this, just do their installation according to the drawing. Otherwise, you will have to think a little. In addition to the step of the rafter legs, it is important to take into account the cross section of the Mauerlat and the run, of course, if any. This frame sets all the strength of the future structure, so when installing them, focus all your attention at this stage.
Vapor barrier layer. As a rule, film materials are used as a vapor barrier, but the use of breathable membranes is much more profitable, although a little more expensive. The fact is that the film completely blocks access to moisture, and the perforated body of the membranes allows accumulated moisture to escape, but at the same time maintains tightness. The explanation for this lies in the direction of the funnels, which cannot be seen with the naked eye. The purpose of this layer is to protect the entire roofing pie from moisture coming from below.
Control grid. Small bars are used as the main elements to create this layer. They raise the entire roofing cake to a certain height and allow gusts of wind to move freely and blow out moisture-saturated air. The bars should be placed parallel to the rafter legs, and not across the slope.
Crate. The crate is laid perpendicular to the previous layer and acts as the base of the main part of the pie. It can be created from boards or bars. The step of its elements is taken in such a way that there is a support for each wave of the coating sheet.

Additional vapor barrier. This layer is needed in order to remove moisture from the insulation. Of course, in no case should it get there, but it is impossible to determine what can happen to it during the operation of the roof.
Thermal insulation boards. This material helps to eliminate a couple of disadvantages of metal tiles. First of all, it insulates it, therefore, the heat will not leave freely through the roof. In addition, soundproofing indicators increase, which is very important for the vast majority of developers. By the way, do not forget about the ventilation gap. To do this, small-sized lumber is laid out on top of the heat-insulating plates. They lift the waterproofing laid on top, and thus provide fresh air.
Waterproofing. If the vapor barrier layer protects the cake from moisture from below, then the waterproofing blocks it from above. Metallic coatings tend to collect a large amount of condensate, so second-rate products should not be laid here.
Coating. As fasteners, special self-tapping screws with a rubber lining are used, thanks to which moisture cannot penetrate through the holes made.

Many developers often ask me one question: “how to properly cover the roof with metal tiles with your own hands?” In my opinion, the answer is obvious. Observing the sequence of layers and adhering to the rules installation work you will do everything right.

truss system

A little higher, I touched on truss beams, but I would like to talk not only about them, but about the roof frame as a whole.

All lumber for the roof skeleton is preferably selected from softwood. They must be strong and meet the requirements for rigidity. In addition, wood is treated with flame retardants and antiseptics in order to reduce the likelihood of its destruction in the future. Some developers create a metal roof frame. Of course, it will last much longer than a tree, but it should be understood that the price of metal elements will be much higher.

After the erection of the walls of the building, they immediately begin to arrange the upper belt. A special "cushion" of reinforced concrete is laid here. By the way, do not forget to lay the parts there that will hold the support beam.

The support beam, as well as all roofing lumber, must have a solid structure. For this, coniferous trees are most often used. Mauerlat is laid around the perimeter of the upper trim of the house, and, in addition to embedded parts, anchor bolts are used as fasteners. The cross section, almost always, is taken the same way: 150x150 or 200x200 millimeters. In our case, the load from the roof will be small, so we take a smaller value.

Please note that depending on the type of roofing system you have chosen, it may contain additional elements, for example, puffs, racks, girders, and the like. I give an example of almost the simplest roof frame - a gable roof.

The cross section of the rafter legs is taken from the calculations, it also concerns their step. As a rule, this value lies in the range from 60 to 120 centimeters and goes beyond these limits only on temporary buildings. The step is influenced by many factors, in particular the weight of the roofing cake, the cross section of the beam itself and the width of the thermal insulation product.

As you already know, the vapor barrier layer is laid on top of the rafter legs. Before you begin to carry out such a procedure, you need to know the following. In no case should the vapor barrier sheet be stretched, otherwise it will simply tear when the building settles. Let it sag between the beams by about 2-3 millimeters, then you will maintain its integrity.

In addition to the frame itself, it is worth mentioning the crate. It is created from bars or slats of small section. Lumber with a section of 30x30 millimeters is quite enough for a metal tile, but you already know about the step. A rail or board should fall on each wave of the sheet. In case you want to make the crate more discharged, then you need to take into account the slope of the slopes. Snow will accumulate on low-slope surfaces, temporary loads will increase, therefore, you need to take a step as small as possible. The opposite statement is typical for steep slopes.

IMPORTANT: The moisture content of wood at the time of installation should not exceed 20%. Otherwise, after its fastening, the warping process will begin, which will damage not only the roof frame, but also all overlying products.

By the way, minimum slope for metal coatings is about 12 degrees. It should be understood that here everything will depend on the amount of precipitation, so in some cases it is better not to risk it and increase it to at least 15 degrees.

Now that you have learned almost everything about the material, you can answer the main question: “how to cover the roof with metal tiles with your own hands?”

We cover the roof with a metal tile with our own hands

Having understood how to cover the roof with metal tiles with your own hands, you can seriously save money, because some roofers charge exactly as much for such work as the roof itself costs.

I won’t torment you anymore, here is a painted technology on how to cover a roof with a metal tile.

The beginning of any important action in construction begins with preparatory work. At this stage, the material is purchased and delivered to the construction site. In addition to the roofing products themselves, it is important to issue personal protective equipment to the worker.

Working with metal sheets is associated with a certain danger; you can easily cut yourself on their edges. I'll tell you even more, some of my friends lost their fingers in this way, so do not forget about special durable gloves.

Laying of metal tiles begins from the bottom row. The first sheet is laid taking into account the cornice and gable overhang. Fasteners are placed under each wave so that the quilting moisture cannot flow into the roofing pie. The horizontal overlap is selected individually, based on the slope of the slope. The optimal value lies in the range from 10 to 25 centimeters. However, you can navigate by the waves, 1-2 waves will be enough. The whole row is filled in the same way.
If the sheets do not match the length of the slope, then the second row will overlap the first. Again, the overlap is taken from considerations: the steeper the slope, the less overlap.
After filling all the slopes with a coating, additional elements are installed.

If you do not understand something from the above, you may find the answer in this video material. It tells in detail how to cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands.

Everyone is able to properly cover the roof with a metal tile, the main thing is to know certain nuances.

For ease of installation, purchase sheets the length of which matches the length of your ramp. Thus, there will be fewer joints, which will significantly increase the tightness of the plane. During laying, you will need to divide the sheet of metal. Never use power tools for this. They produce a lot of sparks that immediately melt the protective polymer layer.

The metal tile is an engineering and technical "alloy" of steel strength and the aesthetics of traditional roofing ceramics. Lightweight profiled sheets practically do not affect the weight of the building and delight installers with convenient dimensions.

A sure plus in the piggy bank of material priorities is the ability to independently carry out the entire cycle of roofing work without the paid participation of builders. Only first you need to find out how the roof is made of metal tiles with your own hands, and learn about the rules and intricacies of the process of its construction.

The corrugated metal sheets of the now popular coating are equipped with double protection against atmospheric attacks. Steel profiled blanks are first immersed in hot zinc tanks, which forms an anti-corrosion film on the surface. Then the outer side of the material is covered with a colored polymer shell that performs aesthetic and protective functions.

However, both degrees of protection will not be able to withstand the attacks of precipitation and household fumes if the roofing pie is arranged with violations and errors. In the space under the coating, condensate will begin to accumulate, which will slowly but surely get to the metal. The insulation will get wet and lose its insulating qualities. Wooden elements get wet, as a result of which they rot.

Relying completely on light weight and an impressive area of sheets of material is also not worth it: the rafter system must be strong enough, and the crate must be such that each element is fixed at the required number of points. Therefore, to self-assembly metal tiles should be properly prepared, i.е. get to know the details of the building roof structure, battens and roofing cake.

Rafter system and crate

Metal tiles are used in the arrangement of cold and insulated roofs. The truss system for the cold type can be built from steel or aluminum elements. But wood is still a priority, because it is easier to attach coating sheets to it. Insulated structures require more powerful roof trusses, because thermal insulation will be located between their legs. The use of metal in such situations is impractical, so warm roofs are arranged according to wooden rafters with a crate.

Note that metal roofing is possible on pitched roofs with a minimum slope of 14º. The slope of the roofs is from 15º to 20º.

In the construction of a truss system for a warm roof with metal tiles, there are rules, these are:

The step between the rafter legs should not exceed 90 cm. The minimum distance between the rafters is 60cm. If the step of the existing truss system is greater than the specified upper limit, an additional crate is arranged from a transversely installed board.
The rafter system is arranged from a board 50 mm thick. The recommended board height is 100 or 150 mm depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation.
Laid in a spacer between the rafter legs should not come into contact with traditional waterproofing. If the thickness of the insulation is equal to the transverse height of the board used in the device of the truss structure, then an additional counter-rail of 30 × 50 or 50 × 50 is stuffed onto the rafters along their direction. It will create a gap of 3-5cm.

In order to ensure ventilation of wooden elements, it is advisable to drill holes Ø 2-2.5 cm in the rafter legs from the side. The formation of holes is an optional procedure, but strongly recommended by metal tile manufacturers. If there are concerns about the weakening of the structure, they are advised to place them closer to the ridge in two or three rows with a step of 30 cm.

Before the construction of the crate, which works as the basis for fastening the sheets, the geometric parameters of the truss system should be checked. Measure and verify the length of the diagonals of rectangular slopes. On mansard roofs, the length of the diagonals of each part of the slope is separate. You need to control the horizontal position of the overhangs and the ridge, as well as the location of the outer surface of the rafter legs in the same plane. Timely detection of deviations in geometry will eliminate further errors.

After making sure that the roof trusses are geometrically flawless, you can proceed to the construction of the crate, in the device of which, by analogy, clear rules apply:

The first lath - the lowest rail on the overhang should be higher than the subsequent ordinary rails. For its construction, it is necessary to take a bar thicker than for ordinary laths. For example, for the bottom rail 50x50, and for all subsequent 30x50.
The initial rail of the crate should be clearly parallel to the line of the eaves.
The step between the first and second bars is 28 or 30 cm. The step between subsequent rails is 30, 35 or 40 cm. the step is determined by the distance between the transverse waves of the metal tile.
In the process of installing the lathing, through penetrations through the roof are taken into account and fasteners for pipes are installed.
In the grooves, around the dormer windows, chimney, fan and other pipes, a continuous crate of boards is arranged.
In the upper part of the slopes, two boards are nailed to the rafters to ensure reliable fixation of the cornice strip. Boards are installed at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

Among other things, before installing the crate, all wooden components should be treated with an antiseptic and fire-fighting compound.

The crate plays not only the role of the basis for fastening the sheets, but at the same time performs another very important job. It forms ventilation channels through which air flows circulate from the overhang to the ridge, and provides a ventilation gap between the waterproofing layer and the coating.

ventilation ducts must remain free so that air can flow under the metal sheets without interference and also come out. From the side of the overhangs and from the side of the ridge, they are simply covered with perforated tape, which prevents dust and debris from entering the roofing pie.

Structural roof boards

Cornice boards are used to strengthen the slope and give it cruelty in case it is planned to equip the roof with an organized drain or hem overhangs vinyl siding. In situations where filing is done with a corny board, there is no need to use board reinforcement.

Cornice boards are laid along the overhangs in the grooves pre-selected in the rafters. The dimensions of the grooves must correspond to the dimensions of the board so that the plane of the overhang remains unchanged and the height of the truss system does not increase. If it is planned to install long hooks used to fix the gutter, grooves are cut in the cornice board for their fastening. Hooks with a short leg are screwed only to the front board. They are used when the installation of a drainage system was not planned in advance and when repairing old roofs. The installation step of all types of hooks is equal to the step of the rafter legs.

The frontal board is used if the roof does not have an organized drain. It is attached to the ends of the rafters with galvanized nails. Serves as an element for fastening various roofing parts and accessories, including for hemming overhangs. The end board serves as the basis for the end plank, the latter covers the waterproofing laid over the board. In addition to the decorative function, the plank nailed to the end board prevents the roof from rattling.

Time to hem the overhangs

Coating manufacturers strongly advise to hem overhangs with valves specially produced for this purpose, such as KTV or Vilpe. For filing cornices, siding, profiled sheet or vinyl spotlights are recommended. Dobora are on sale with the application of connecting details and with the instruction. You can economically hem a board attached with a gap for roof ventilation.

The specifics of the roofing cake

The composition and structure of the roofing pie under the metal tile depends on whether the structure will be insulated or not. In the simplest non-insulated scheme, only a waterproofing film is used. A vapor barrier is used if the attic is supposed to be hemmed.

The insulated roofing cake includes three standard layers, these are:

Vapor barrier. It is located on the side of the future intake of household fumes, i.e. from within the truss system. Her job is to protect the insulation from steam. Strips of vapor barrier material are laid parallel to the overhangs with an overlap of 10-15 cm. They are attached to the rafters with a stapler, and they are connected into a single canvas with adhesive tape. Between inner lining attic and vapor barrier should create a gap by installing battens.
Thermal insulation. As a heater, mineral wool boards are most often used, the thickness of which is determined in accordance with the requirements of SNiP II-3-79. The material is installed at a distance between the rafter legs. To ensure the rigidity of the installation, the plates are cut with a width of 1.5-2 cm more than the distance between the rafters.
Waterproofing. It is needed as a barrier against atmospheric precipitation. Lay her with outside truss system in front of the batten, they try to arrange it immediately after laying the insulation, so as not to get wet. The waterproofing material is laid, like a vapor barrier, in strips with a similar overlap and fastening methods.

The waterproofing layer is laid so that its canvas overlaps the lines of the walls along the perimeter by at least 20 cm. In the areas where the slopes join, in the valleys, laying is carried out with overlaps of 20-30 cm. Along the ridge line, the waterproofing must have a gap so as not to interfere with air circulation.

An important condition: bituminous water-repellent materials cannot be used as a waterproofing of a roofing cake when installing a roof made of metal tiles. Waterproofing must pass steam and condensate accumulated in the insulation.

The method of constructing a water-repellent layer depends on the material used:

The classic version of waterproofing is reinforced or unreinforced polyethylene film, which must be provided with two ventilation gaps. The first of them is formed by the truss system and is located between the insulation and the film, the second is formed by the crate and is located between the film and the roofing. The size of each of the gaps is 3-5 cm.
The superdiffusion membrane can work fine with a single ventilation gap of 3-5cm. It is created between the membrane and the metal tile. When using a polymeric material, there is no point in breaking the contact between the waterproofing and the insulation. After all, the membrane is able to pass excess moisture out, preventing it from getting inside.
Anti-condensation materials with a fleecy surface designed to accumulate moisture. Their pile is quickly ventilated when washed with air, which should be provided with a path. Therefore, this option also needs dual-circuit ventilation, like the classic. It is mainly used in the arrangement of cold roofs.

All types of insulating materials, except for polymeric waterproofing, are laid with sagging. So it is necessary that when the film is pulled, it does not break. Only the membrane does not need to be laid with sagging - it tends to stretch.

Around the through passages through the roof, waterproofing is placed on the walls of communication pipes by 5-7 cm. Ideally, an additional waterproofing layer is recommended around pipes and other weakened areas of the roof.

Installation of parts before laying the coating

Before laying metal tiles in without fail installed:

Eaves strips, excluding the penetration of dust and debris into the under-roof space. They are mounted on top of the ventilation tape attached to the ends and the legs of the drain hooks. The slats are attached to the frontal and eaves board with self-tapping screws in increments of 30 cm. To prevent rattling from gusts of wind, these metal parts are installed with an interference fit.
Cornice droppers, which are located under waterproofing film. They are needed to remove moisture from waterproofing.
A lower valley that reinforces the protection of the concave corners of the roof. It is a metal corner that repeats the shape of the groove. It is mounted on top of a solid plank crate. The lower edge of the corner is located above the cornice board. In almost flat grooves, the boardwalk is equipped with an additional strip of waterproofing. The lower valley is screwed with self-tapping screws every 30 cm. A porous sealant is covered over the lower valley.
Protective bypass around chimneys crossing the roof. It is carried out using metal bypass strips, the upper edge of which is attached to a strobe formed in the pipe walls and treated with a sealant. Stitching into the seam is prohibited! The same rules apply when arranging adjoining walls.
Lightning rod required for the safe operation of a metal roof.

The lightning rod system consists of three main parts. The first is a lightning rod, which is a steel or aluminum bar Ø 12mm, from 20 cm to 1.5 m long. The second component of the down conductor is a single-core steel or aluminum wireØ 6mm. They lay a down conductor along the crate and along the walls, lead to the ground. Grounding, the third part of the system, is an iron beam 1.5 m long buried at a depth of 1.5 m or a steel sheet with an area of 1 m × 1 m, for example.

Rules for laying sheets of metal

Before laying profiled sheets, it is necessary to arrange logs for transporting material to the roof. In order not to lift the coating one sheet at a time, it is advisable to build racks for temporary storage at the top. More home master you will need soft shoes, diligence and accuracy in the process of moving along the roof. The work contractor is allowed to step only into the deflections of profiled waves.

When laying metal tiles, you can move even to the left, even to the right of the first fixed sheet. The main thing is that the capillary groove overlaps with the sheet laid on top. The guideline for choosing the direction of laying is convenience. However, it is better to act in such a way that the element laid on top immediately fits under the extreme wave of the previous one and snaps into place with a capillary groove. This way it stays in place and doesn't slide off.

Typical installation sequence

Indisputable rules for the installation of metal tiles:

Starting sheets are attached to the first lath through the wave on top of the transverse step of the cover. Their lower edge extends 5 cm beyond the eaves.
All subsequent fastening of sheets is carried out in recessions of waves from below the transverse step.
Along the end board, the profiled coating is attached to all waves.

Before fastening, it is necessary to carefully check the horizontal position of the sheet. After making sure that the installation is flawless, it is temporarily fixed with one self-tapping screw at the upper edge in the center. Then the second sheet is laid, leveled and temporarily fixed in the same way. Aligned sheets are fastened together. Do the same with the third and fourth.

Screwing to the crate is carried out when a block of 3-4 sheets is laid and temporarily fixed. The block is fixed at all the required points. Only the outer sheet is not screwed to the crate, so that it remains possible to connect it with the next element.

The process of laying metal tile sheets in several rows differs only in that the rows of material will also have to be fastened to each other. Sheets in height are increased vertically.

Profiled sheets are suitable for pitched roofs of any configuration. However, for a competent device of a hip or hip roof made of metal tiles, you will have to act according to a different scheme.

Installation of sheets on slopes of a triangular shape:

We find the center of the overhang and draw the central axis through it.
We take the first sheet and do the same with it.
We combine the axes of the slope and the sheet in fact, we verify the horizontal and vertical.
Temporarily fasten the sheet with a self-tapping screw in the center at the top edge.
We install the sheets to the right and left of the central element of the coating in the usual way.

After fastening the corrugated sheets, the excess is cut off.

The convenience of trimming with marking material for arranging valleys, triangular, trapezoidal and oblique slopes will provide a home-made "devil". It is built from four boards 10 cm wide. The boards are arranged in parallel pairs and are connected to each other according to the hinge principle. A simple fixture will help to accurately outline the cut segments.

Final installation work

After laying the wavy coating with a light soul, you can proceed to the finishing touches:

Install passage elements around pipes, antennas and other communications. All components of the roofing cake at the intersection points are sealed with adhesive tape. Butt joints are filled with sealant.
Screw the end plate to the end board with self-tapping screws every 50-60 cm.
Screw the top bar of the valley, having laid a self-expanding sealant on the coating beforehand.
Build a horse. To do this, the area of \u200b\u200bthe ridge is glued on the outside with waterproofing of the Metalroll or Figarol brand. Ventilation ducts must remain open. The ridge is fixed with self-tapping screws to the crate, the fasteners should be screwed through a convex comb. The ends of the ridge element are closed with plugs.

A drainage system, snow guards, service ladders and fencing, if planned, are installed on the laid coating.

An excellent consolidation of information about the device on the roof of a solid roof made of metal tiles with their master's hands will be detailed video instruction:

There are many nuances in the construction of a roof with metal tiles. However, there is nothing super complicated in technology. It is necessary to familiarize yourself with the intricacies of the device and observe them so that you do not again have to change the roof to the next option.

Metal tile is a material that is used for roofing along with such popular materials as slate, shingles and galvanized sheet. Excellent specifications make her great options for any home. And although they usually prefer to invite professionals to carry out this kind of work, we will consider how to independently carry out the installation of metal tiles: step-by-step instruction and some expert advice.

A tiled roof, especially if it is made of metal, is one of the best options for home decoration. Experts and users themselves note many positive aspects of using this material, including:

low weight (4-6 kg / m²), which provides a very small load on the roof;

Differs in the democratic price, long term of operation and expressive appearance

simple installation procedure and ease of repair work;
a large assortment color solutions;
the material is environmentally friendly and does not contain any harmful components;
the coating is equipped with stiffeners, which makes it very durable. Provided that all installation recommendations are followed, the surface is able to withstand a load of 200 kg / m², even if sheets with a thickness of 0.5 mm were used;
The material is extremely temperature resistant. He is not afraid of any drops, and the thermal expansion index is minimal.

There is practically no need to talk about the shortcomings of metal tiles, with the exception, perhaps, advanced level noise on days when it rains. But even with this it is quite possible to cope if you first lay a layer of glass wool.

Criteria for choosing a material for a metal roof: photo examples

Before starting to consider the process of installing this roofing material, it is necessary to decide how exactly the material should be used.

Viewing photos of roofs, the metal tiles on which look attractive, is far from the best method in this case, since in the selection process you need to pay attention to the list of additional elements, as well as the markings provided by the manufacturer. Consider what the buyer needs to know.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the presence in the price list of such additional elements as:

various types of skates: simple, figured and with aerators;
special passage units for the installation of pipes, hatches, ventilation, antennas, as well as lighting windows;
elements designed to ensure the safety of surface maintenance - navigation bridges, stairs, snow retainers;
internal and external valleys;
other necessary elements are wall profiles, gables, metal tile cornice strips, the installation of which is an indispensable part of the roof arrangement.

Important! The presence of all the listed elements among the seller's offers is an indicator of the level of the company that produces metal tiles, which may also indicate the quality of the products themselves.

In addition, it is worth paying attention to the study of the marking, which must be present on each certified material. Usually, the production indicates all the characteristics of the material itself, as well as the quality level of the anti-corrosion coating that is applied over the sheet.

So, here is what information can be gleaned by reading the information provided on reverse side sheet metal:

the presence of polymers;
how much zinc per 1 m² sheet;
date of production and the period of the warranty period for the use of the material;
manufacturer's name;
sheet thickness.

In the process of visual inspection, you need to pay attention to the integrity of the protective layer, both from the front and from the wrong side of the sheet, as well as the presence of all mandatory markings.

Important! If we are talking about a material purchased from a major manufacturer, then the marking will also contain information about the grade of steel used.

Installation of metal tiles: step-by-step instructions for independent work

Considering the fact that the price of installing a metal tile has never been low, many people prefer to try to do everything themselves. Although initially it is worth familiarizing yourself with how much it costs professional installation metal tiles. The price of work per m2 starts from 250 rubles and may increase depending on the complexity.

The process of installing a metal roof, the technology of which will be discussed below, consists of several stages, each of which has its own significance and must be carried out properly.

Laying metal tiles: preparatory stage and calculations

The first thing to do if it was decided to independently carry out the procedure for laying metal tiles on the roof surface is to carry out preliminary calculations. This is necessary in order to determine how much of what materials will be required and, accordingly, to avoid unnecessary costs.

To begin with, we will clarify some basic concepts so that in the future the question of how exactly the roof of a metal tile is arranged does not arise. If you look at the roof, which has already been covered with this material, you can see that it consists of rows that run across the slope and waves. The distance from one row to another is called a step.

There is such a thing as a "model". This name means sheets of metal tiles, the pitch of which is 35 cm, and the number of waves is 6. On sale you can find sheets of modules 1, 3, 6 and 10.

Useful advice! In addition to purchasing sheets standard sizes, you can consider the option of individual production of metal tiles to order. Of course, it will cost much more, but in this way you can get exactly the material that is right for you. The main thing to remember is that the length of one sheet should not be less than 45 cm or more than 7 m.

In the process of choosing right size sheet, you need to focus on the fact that after installation, the joints and waves converge in such a way as to form a single coating along the entire length of the slope. At the same time, it is quite simple to calculate the amount of material, taking into account the length of the roof and sheets.

When purchasing a metal tile, it is important to pay attention to some additional elements that are included in the kit and allow you to correct installation. This includes steel strips 2 m long, as well as steel sheets 200x125 cm, which should have the same color as the tiles.

In the process of acquiring metal tiles, you need to make sure that these auxiliary elements are available in sufficient quantity and meet all requirements. For example, the standard bar inclination level is 30 degrees. Although other options are possible at the request of buyers - from 11 to 70 degrees.

Important! 11 degrees is minimum slope, at which we allow the installation of metal tiles.

Do-it-yourself materials and tools for laying metal tiles

In order to carry out the installation of metal tiles with your own hands, you need to take care of the availability of some tools and materials that will allow you to carry out all the work as simply and efficiently as possible:

screwdriver;
electric drill;
scissors for cutting metal;
yardstick;
hammer;
marker;
mounting tape.

It is also worth taking care of the presence of a ladder and means intended for individual protection of the face and hands (glasses, gloves).

As for Supplies, which will be required to prepare the base and fasten the metal tile, then this list includes: waterproofing material, roofing strips, tiles, as well as an aero roller, strips for the ridge and ends, a guide board and boards 2.5x10 cm. Of course, you will also need fixing elements - self-tapping screws and special sealing washers for them.

Useful advice! To give an attractive appearance to the coating, it is worth using decorative overlays.

How to fix a metal tile: stages of preparatory work

The light weight of the metal tile allows for a minimum amount of preparatory work before proceeding to laying. And yet, you still have to prepare a suitable foundation. Since there is no need for a reinforced base, an ordinary wooden one made of slats is quite suitable.

The procedure is extremely simple - based on the step of the selected metal tile, slats are located on the surface. It is important to observe a single distance so that in the process of fixing the roofing material it is not necessary to screw the screws into the void. Another important factor to consider when installing the batten is the location of the windows. It is highly undesirable to place the rafters directly above the windows.

Related article:

Thermal insulation during the installation of a metal roof

When it comes to the construction of a roof made of metal, the heat-insulating material is designed to solve two problems at once - to reduce heat loss, as well as to reduce the noise level that raindrops produce when they hit the surface. To do this, vapor barrier material is first laid on the rafters, and then a layer of thermal insulation. At the same time, it is important that the layer thickness does not exceed 25 cm. An antioxidant film is attached from above, fixing it with wooden bars directly to the rafters.

Important! In order to ensure that precipitation flows into the drain, the material must be fixed with a small allowance (about 2 cm). Due to such a small sag, there will be no problems with water runoff..

Such a "pie" - the maximum efficient system thermal insulation of the roof, which is allowed by the technology of mounting metal tiles. As for the choice of thermal insulation material, there are several options that depend on cost, quality and manufacturer.

Roofing made of metal tiles: basic rules of work

Before starting work related directly to the laying of metal tiles, you need to familiarize yourself with some rules and concepts that will help you avoid common mistakes and do everything you need as efficiently as possible:

There are two ways of laying sheets of metal tiles: from right to left and from left to right. In the first case, each next sheet must overlap the previous one, and in the second, the previous sheet must overlap.
Do not immediately fasten each sheet fully. Before screwing the metal tile, it is best to lay four sheets and lightly grab them with fasteners so that they hold. Then you need to make sure that they are located as needed and trim if necessary. For final fixing, one self-tapping screw is used, which passes through all the sheets.
The service life of the entire roof is highly dependent on the quality of the fasteners used. Therefore, the choice of self-tapping screws must be given due attention. It is important that they are galvanized and must have special seals on the heads that can hermetically fill the holes when the self-tapping screw is completely screwed into the hole.
In those places where several sheets were fixed at once with the help of one fastener, one way or another, a seal will appear. In order to smooth it out, it is necessary to cut off part of the corner, or you can straighten the capillary ditch, which is located under the stamping line.

Scheme of fastening metal tiles and other necessary elements

Certain rules exist for the installation of other mandatory elements, without which no roof can do. Here are some recommendations regarding the installation scheme of metal tiles and other elements:

the end strips must be fixed with an overlap, which should be about 2 cm. In this case, the size of the wave must be adjusted in accordance with the width of the slope. Otherwise, you may encounter the fact that the comb will fit on the pediment;
for the cornice strip, it is also necessary to have an overlap of 10 cm on the lower bar of the crate, to which it is attached with nails;
between the sheet of metal and the roofing strip, it is imperative to lay an additional layer of sealing material;
for the arrangement of all elements located below the ridge (pipes and windows), sheets with one module are used. Usually 2 pieces are required for each structural element;
if the roof slope is sloping, then it is necessary to additionally install an aero roller between the ridge bar and the material itself. This will avoid the penetration of atmospheric precipitation under the ridge;

the fixation of the ridge should be made to the slats, which are located in the end part of the entire structure. In this case, the calculations should be carried out taking into account the required protrusion, which is 2-3 cm. Moreover, if you have to deal with a flat ridge, then the fastening is done with an overlap, and for semicircular elements according to the profile lines;
it is necessary to study in advance the specifics of installing a dropper under a metal tile, and clearly follow all the instructions.

Useful advice! If you have to work with a roof whose slope angle is more than 45 degrees, then it is worthwhile to carry out calculations in advance that will determine whether it is possible to install a specific model of a ridge bar in this case. This must be done, because otherwise, it may even be necessary to completely replace the entire roofing.

It is also worth paying attention to the fact that, if necessary, the ridge bar can be adjusted to some extent. That is, it can not be bent or unbent to ensure the most accurate repetition of the angle of the roof. You can learn more about such subtleties from the video instructions for installing metal tiles.

Installation of a valley with a roof with a metal tile

Another extremely important element, the installation rules of which cannot be neglected, is the valley. For each such element, an additional board is necessarily attached. Fastening in this case must be started from the bottom, gradually moving up and not forgetting the need for overlap (in this case, 25-30 cm). Below the level of the cornice, the bottom bar must be cut off. This is followed by a flanging, under which, as well as under the ridge, a seal is laid.

There is a gap between the sheets and the axis, about 8-10 cm in size. Then, at a distance of about 1.5 cm from the stamping line, screws are screwed into the cut sheets. In this case, the mount should be located 25 cm from the axis of the valley. If you follow this technology, then as a result, the sheet, at the place of fastening, will converge with the board on which the valley is located.

As for the installation of the valley below, it must be started before laying the roofing material. This is important in order to further ensure that water flows directly into the additional element.

Important! All errors in the process of carrying out calculations and measurements can lead to the appearance of gaps on the surface, and when heavy precipitation begins, most likely the roof will leak.

In order to cover those places where cut sheets are visible, special decorative overlays are used. When installing them, you also need to remember a few simple rules:

installation must be done from the bottom up;
a sealant between the lining and the tiles is not needed;
linings must be overlapped at least 10 cm;
fasteners (in this case, self-tapping screws) should not provoke damage to the valley.

Very often one has to deal with situations where the beginning and end of the valleys are located directly on the roof slope. As an example, consider the case when a skylight is being installed. In such a situation, it is imperative to put a separate board, and for the window itself, a hole is made in the sheet of metal. At the same time, the cornice cut is covered with a plank. And along the walls must be laid sealing material.

How to lay metal tiles on a roof with a triangular or trapezoidal slope

If there is a need to cover a triangular or trapezoidal roof with a metal tile, then the installation of two additional bars will definitely be required. They are installed along the fold line of the roof on both sides of the "ridge". After that, the cornice board is mounted and the assembly of the crate begins. The step of the lathing for the metal tile in this case is calculated in the same way as with standard scheme. Then the cornice system is installed. They begin to lay the metal tile only after all these procedures have been carried out, orienting and leveling the first sheet along the eaves bar.

Important! The distance between the corner sheets that were trimmed and installed near the "ridge" should not exceed 10 cm.

In order to install the ridge nodes, you need to align the ridge bars relative to the angle of the "ridge". In the case of using a straight ridge, it must be cut according to the available angles, and special plugs are provided for a semicircular ridge. Moreover, it is best to use plastic models.

The ridge bar should be located strictly along the axis of the "ridge". It's not too much difficult task if the slope angles are the same. If they have different values, then the task becomes much more complicated. As an auxiliary material, bright mounting foam, which allows you to determine the quality of the junction with the slopes.

Installation instructions for metal tiles "Monterrey"

A separate type of metal tile, undoubtedly worthy of attention is Monterrey. This option is very popular due to some exceptional characteristics:

extremely high level of resistance of the material both to ultraviolet radiation and to other external factors, such as moisture and temperature;
due to the polymer layer applied to the surface of the tile, it does not lose its appearance throughout the entire service life;
the material is extremely strong and hard, so that it can withstand severe loads;
multilayer structure prevents corrosion;
due to the low weight (one square meter of material weighs no more than 5 kg), the load on the truss system is significantly reduced;
using this option is a great savings, as there is no need to take a big step between the fasteners. Initially, the Monterrey metal tile installation instructions provide for 35-centimeter steps.

This material has only two drawbacks - a large number of residues after laying, as well as the need for high-quality sound insulation.

As for the features that you need to know about before laying the Montreuil metal tile, the following aspects play a role here:

for various models of this material, it is necessary to prepare a different crate. So, for a Standard or Super metal tile, a step of 35 cm will be enough, but for a Suite or Maxi, a step should be 40 cm;
in the most difficult places of the roof (usually these are the inner corners, as well as the place where the chimney outlet is located), you need to make a continuous crate;
on the junction slats, to exit the chimney, internal aprons must be installed;
installation instructions for Monterrey metal tiles do not provide for the use of material whose length is more than 4 m;
before installing the material, it is necessary to remove the protective coating, since it may not be possible to do this in the future.

It is categorically impossible to cut the sheet in the transverse direction, as this may lead to the fact that the profile will collapse. Also, in no case should a grinder or other tools with abrasive wheels be used for this purpose.

Interesting! The Cascade metal tile also looks great, the installation instructions for which are not too different from all the others. But on the other hand, the appearance of such a roof is considered more aesthetic and original.

How to properly care for a roof covering with a metal tile

Having studied the step-by-step instructions for installing metal siding, you can carry it out quality styling. But in order for the material to serve for many years, you need to know how to care for it.

The top layer of the metal tile is a polymeric material that is designed to protect against corrosive processes. But as a result of constant exposure external factors: Precipitation, ultraviolet rays, as well as dust and dirt, this layer may begin to break down, which will lead to the need to replace the coating. In order to avoid this phenomenon and extend the operational life of the roof, it is necessary to regularly carry out the following procedures:

remove dirt, dust and dry leaves from the surface using a damp fluffy brush;
if we are talking about the elimination of more complex contaminants, then it is permissible to use cleaning products, but only those designed for polymer surfaces. It is strictly forbidden to use aggressive chemicals, as they destroy the protective layer and render the material unusable;
cleaning of drains is carried out with the help of a jet of water, which should be directed from the ridge to the cornices;
it is possible and necessary to clear the snow, but this should be done only with the use of tools that are not capable of damaging the delicate coating.

Subject to these simple but extremely important rules, a metal tile coating can properly serve as a roofing material for about 50 years.

Common mistakes in the process of installing a metal roof with your own hands

Inexperienced craftsmen often make mistakes that can lead to the fact that the work will have to be partially, and sometimes completely, redone. Such negligence can lead to additional costs for the purchase of material and consumables, so it is better to familiarize yourself with common mistakes in advance in order to prevent them:

installation of metal tiles should be carried out exclusively in shoes with soft soles that cannot damage or scratch the coating;
it is strictly forbidden to step on the crest of the wave, as this can cause deformation;
moreover, it is generally not recommended to step on the sheets with a full foot;
when moving on the surface of the material, the leg should be placed parallel, and not perpendicular to the slope;
You can take the material only with gloves.

Taking into account these simple rules, as well as acting in accordance with the technology of laying metal tiles, you can independently make a beautiful and reliable roof.

Installation of snow retainers on metal tiles: instructions and their varieties

A high level of safety is one of the main requirements that apply to a roof made of any material, including metal tiles. For this purpose, special designs are used, which are called snow retainers. And the main goal is to ensure the safe removal of snow from the roof and prevent possible dangerous situations. In addition, they contribute to the preservation of the original shape of the structure, and do not allow it to deform under the weight of icy snow. And given that its mass in some cases may exceed the weight of the roof itself, this problem is quite relevant.

Important! The issue of distributing the load that snow exerts on the roof surface should be thought out even at the stage of laying the foundation. This factor must be taken into account in the calculations.

It is almost impossible to predict exactly how snow will be distributed on the roof surface. It depends on many factors, including the angle of the roof, wind direction, etc. Therefore, in order to make calculations, a special formula is used:

Q = G×s

In this case, Q is the load that snow exerts, G is the mass of snow on a flat roof surface, which can be found in a special table, and S is a correction factor that depends on the angle of the roof: > 25 ° - 1, if 25- 60° - 0.7. If the degree of inclination is greater than 60, then this is not taken into account, since in this case precipitation on the surface will definitely not linger.

In order to determine the G index, it is necessary to refer to a special table that provides information on snow cover for each region of the country.

Installation of tubular snow retainers on metal tiles: installation rules

As a rule, a pipe is used as the basis for snow retainers, which is laid along the roof. In the case of using metal tiles as a roofing material, fixing is carried out in places where the roof and the load-bearing wall are connected.

It is strictly forbidden to fix these elements on the cornice strip for metal tiles, as this can lead to the destruction of the entire system. Moreover, if you have to deal with a ramp, the length of which is large enough, then the installation of snow retainers on the metal tile must be done in several rows at once to ensure a more reliable fixation.

The tubes themselves are mounted on the roof either end-to-end or in a checkerboard pattern. Special attention should be paid to the installation of such a system in the event that the house has an attic. In this case, the installation must be carried out in such a way that a snow retainer is located above each window opening. As for the distance from the edge of the roof to the elements, 40-50 cm is quite enough.

Lattice snow guards for metal roofing: how to fix it correctly

Lattice snow retainers are considered the most effective, so those users who are interested in the quality of the installed systems choose this option mainly. There are two types of such structures - ordinary and "royal", although it is worth recognizing that there is not much difference between them, with the exception of the supports and the complexity of the gratings.

The high level of efficiency and safety of this type of snow retainers is due to their considerable height, due to which they may not be useful not only in winter, when it comes to keeping snow, but also in summer. After all, it is in the warm season that most often all kinds of repair work are carried out.

Corner snow guards for metal roofing

Corner snow guards are thin steel sheets that are coated with a polymer coating that protects them from corrosion. This is one of the most budget options, which at the same time effectively prevents snow from rolling off the roof. It is very easy to choose a model that will fit the existing metal tile, since the range of colors is extremely large.

To fix the corner snow retainers on the roof of the roof with metal tiles, self-tapping screws and ordinary metal corners. Fastening is made on the upper wave of the sheet.

These are not all design options that can be used to prevent snow from rolling off the roof. The metal tile is perfectly combined with many models and varieties of these elements, so there will definitely not be any problems with the choice and fixation.

Installation of a roof window in a metal tile

It is believed that the installation of skylights is not a task for beginners, and this issue is best addressed to specialists who have proper experience in this field. But this does not mean at all that it is unrealistic to do it yourself, especially if you use step-by-step instructions for dummies. The installation of metal tiles and the installation of the window itself in this case may well pass without any problems.

First of all, you should pay attention to the fact that the maximum possible width of such a window should be 80-120 mm less than the opening between the rafters. In cases where rafter step very small, they install two small windows in adjacent niches.

The installation of the window is carried out after the roofing “pie” is completely made, then you need to install the mounting beam, for which I use the same boards as for the rafter system. Then the frame is installed and the sashes are mounted. It is very important to take care of high-quality waterproofing so that in the future the window does not become a source of precipitation penetration into the house.

Of course, it is necessary to make some changes in the process of mounting the crate under the metal tile, and pay special attention to the issue of mounting the ridge of the metal tile, if planned. skylight. But all these difficulties are more than justified by the excellent result that awaits the owners as a result.

Installation of metal tiles: video instruction for beginners

For those who have never done such work before, it will be extremely useful to watch a video on how to fix a metal tile on a roof. A visual demonstration, as well as the recommendations of experts, will allow you to avoid mistakes and independently make a beautiful and reliable roof that will serve you well for many years.

A metal tile is a beautiful and durable roofing material, proper installation will ensure its durability and immunity to weather phenomena.

Calculation of the amount of required materials

The beginning of work is preceded by . Each element has a total and usable area. Full - the size taking into account the overlap, useful - the one that actually covers the roof.

Each manufacturer produces roofing material with a different overlap size:

10 cm, 12 cm, etc. vertical
6 cm, 8 cm, 9 cm - horizontal

During the calculations, only the useful area of the sheet is taken into account. Its length is determined by a wavelength of 35 cm, the number of waves can be different. Usable sheet length different manufacturers ranges from 35 cm to 3.5 m. In accordance with this indicator, horizontal rows are calculated.

The useful width of the sheets also varies: from 1 m 5 cm; 1 m 10 cm and beyond. Sheet width - the basis for determining the quantity vertical rows.

If the roof slope has a regular rectangular shape, the horizontal rows are calculated by simply dividing the width of the slope by the usable width of one sheet. The resulting number is rounded up.

Vertical rows are calculated by dividing the height of the slope by 35 cm and also rounding up. With a minimum angle of inclination (less than 14 degrees), two waves are needed for overlapping.

When performing calculations, a number equal to the number of rows is added to the resulting number of waves and one is subtracted. The result of the calculations is the number of sheets of metal tiles in a vertical row. Multiplying this number by the number of vertical rows gives the number of sheets per slope.

Calculation of metal tiles on the roof using the program

Other elements of the roof, the number of which must be calculated:

Elements covering the ridge and ribs; their total length is measured, another 10% is added to it for overlaps
Elements forming an internal corner at the junction of the slopes - valleys, external and internal
A cornice strip is a desirable, but not a mandatory element that covers the ends of the rafters; its length is equal to the perimeter of the cornices
End plank - closing the ends of the crate, it protects the sheets of tiles from tearing off by the wind; its length is equal to the total length of the ends
Film for waterproofing - the amount of material is equal to the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof plus 15 cm for overlapping each row
Porous strip for sealing in places of gaps between the ridge, valley
Bars equal to the rafters in length, boards for battens; each slope is closed by them in increments of 35 cm

Tasks and roofing cake for metal tiles

Materials with different purposes are mounted during the installation of the roof in layers:

The heat-insulating layer protects the truss system from the formation of condensate
Vapor barrier protects hydrophobic thermal insulation materials from moisture
waterproofing material
and crate
metal tile

The device of a roofing pie under a metal tile

Tools

Screwdriver and hexagonal nozzle for it
Electric nibbler or nibbler
Roofing scissors manual
mallets
Jigsaw, hammer, hacksaw (for mounting rafters and battens)
Level, plumb, level

Tools for mounting metal tiles

The tools indicated in the picture are used not only for the installation of metal tiles on the roof, but also for the installation of other roofing elements. For example, it will not work without a screwdriver and electric scissors, because. it is necessary to adjust the valley to the desired length and then fix it.

The cornice strip for metal tiles is also adjusted with electric shears and fastened with a screwdriver. the installation process of this element is described in more detail.

Metal roofing technology

crate

Rafters for lathing 5x15 cm are placed in increments of 60-90 cm.

An inch board 10 cm wide is considered the best for the crate.

The first board is laid from below, it is 1-2 cm thicker than the others. With vertically directed nails 7-8 cm, it is nailed to the rafters.

The following boards are nailed in increments of 35 cm (equal to the wavelength on the sheet), providing a gable overhang.

Lathing step for metal tiles

Internal valleys and cornice plank

First, starting from the bottom, fix the internal valleys.

A porous sealing strip is fixed along the entire lower edge.

Before laying the tiles, the eaves plank is also fixed. It is aligned along the lower edge of the slope and fixed to the crate with self-drilling screws. Cornices are joined with an overlap of 5-10 cm.

Laying metal tiles on the roof

Covering the roof with a metal tile is as follows: the first sheet is fixed at the bottom right.

A perfectly even edge of the first row is achieved thanks to a board nailed with a protrusion of 4-5 cm to the ends of the rafters. It will be dismantled later.

The sheet is aligned along the overhang of the pediment and cornice, fixed with a self-tapping screw in the first upper wave on the right using a screwdriver.

The best for fasteners are 35 mm roofing screws equipped with a rubber washer.

A second sheet is superimposed on the first one, fixed at the overlap with a self-tapping screw. Next, the third sheet is laid in the bottom row or the first sheet in the second, to ensure the correct geometric shape of the roof panel.

The sheets are cut with electric scissors, fixed with a self-tapping screw into the profile deflection. Self-tapping screws are arranged in a checkerboard pattern.

Installation of a metal tile profile

Installation of a metal roof ridge

When the installation of metal tile sheets is completed, a sealing strip is glued along the ridge, and the ridge itself is fixed on top of it.

Ridge elements are also fastened along the ribs with the help of special ridge screws.

Installation of the end plate for metal tiles

The end strips are fixed on a pre-nailed end bar, fixed on top and on the sides. From above, the self-tapping screw enters the crest of the wave of the metal tile.

To increase the wind bar, make an overlap of 10 cm.

Installation of a metal roofing valley

The lower valley is fixed on the crate with the help of clamps.

Upper - with roofing screws with a step of 20-30 cm along the upper part of the wave, without violating the integrity of the lower valley.

Scheme of installation of the lower valley of the metal tile

Snow guards

If the length of the slope is large, the snow retainers are installed in two rows. During the installation of the crate, an additional timber is installed for them at a distance of 12 cm from the main board. The snow retainer is attached to the timber with an anchor through a metal tile sheet and a sealing rubber gasket.

Decoration of dormer windows

speaker skylight it is performed similarly to the joints of the slopes: the lower valleys are laid, tiles are laid on top of them, then the upper valleys. The knot is sealed with self-expanding tape.

Dormer window design scheme

thermal insulation

A heat-insulating layer is mounted under the rafters, under which a vapor barrier film is located along the entire length of the room.

The film sheets begin to be stretched from below, between the rows an overlap of 10-15 cm is made, which is glued with adhesive tape. Fix the film with a construction stapler to the rafters.

Having reached the ridge, the film panel is not cut, they move to the next slope.

A metal tile is a light, non-combustible roofing material, its rigidity allows installation on a crate with a sufficiently large step. Given the load, the difference in metal thickness and price, you can choose best option. The key to the durability of the roof is compliance with all the rules and sequence of installation.

Video on how to properly cover the roof with metal tiles

The video shows the stages of work on the installation of metal tiles.