A blind area is a single continuous covering encircling a house or other building around the perimeter. The arrangement of the blind area is one of the final stages of construction, i.e. it is done after the construction of the building. If the developer has planned to finish the basement with plaster, tile, brick or other material, the blind area is built after the completion of the said event.
Useful advice! With the implementation of all tasks related to the arrangement of the blind area, it is necessary to cope before the arrival of cold weather.
For the manufacture of the structure under consideration, a variety of different materials: paving stones, asphalt, tiles, etc. The most widespread among private developers was the blind area made of concrete. This material is characterized by a long service life, high performance and relatively affordable cost.
Blind area around the house 
The blind area is concrete 
Stone pavement 
Brick pavement
Many owners are not fully aware of the importance of the blind area, considering it exclusively decorative element landscape. Along with this, such a coating performs a number of significant practical functions. After reviewing the information below, you will find out why a blind area is needed, what materials can be used to equip it and how to make such a coating on their own.
As noted, the decorative function of the blind area is one of the main, but far from the only one. You can find information about the purpose of the design in question in the following table.
Table. blind area functions
| Functions | Explanations |
|---|---|
| Decorative | The blind area does general form buildings more attractive, solid, thoughtful and complete. |
| Protective | A properly equipped blind area is a reliable barrier to melt water. The structural element does not allow moisture to contact the supporting structure of the house, due to which the risk of destruction of the foundation will be significantly reduced. The design is arranged so that waste and other waters are immediately discharged into sewer system or another suitable place, for which the required surface slope is set. |
| Thermal insulation | At this point, few people pay attention, and in vain. The presence of a properly equipped blind area contributes to a significant decrease in the degree of freezing of the soil and, as a result, the foundation, and with it the entire structure. |
| Soil heaving prevention | As noted, the presence of a blind area can reduce the degree of soil freezing. Along with this, swelling of the soil will also be significantly reduced. Thanks to this, good protection of the foundation of the building from shifts in the ground will be provided, which will eliminate the risk of violating the integrity of the supporting structure and deteriorating its characteristics as a whole. |
Design features and requirements for the blind area
The design of the blind area includes 2 main layers. The first one is underlayment. Its main function is to create a dense, reliable foundation for the overlying layer. The underlying layer can be made with or without a slope. For the manufacture of this ball of construction, it is allowed to use crushed stone, gravel, sand. The recommended thickness of the underlying layer is about 2 cm.
Sometimes the soil around the building is additionally treated with special chemicals - herbicides. The use of such eliminates the growth of plant roots and grass in the future, thereby minimizing the risk of violating the integrity of the supporting structure of the house.
The top layer is a coating that provides a decorative function and protection of the foundation from water. Thickness - up to 100 mm. For the manufacture of the upper ball, asphalt, paving stones, concrete and other materials are used.
In addition to the above, the blind area includes other important layers. The structural features of the structure can be found in the following image.
In order for the blind area to fully cope with the tasks mentioned earlier, in the process of its arrangement it is necessary to ensure compliance with a number of important requirements.
- Firstly, the width of the blind area should exceed that of the roof overhang. When arranging a site on sandy soil, it is recommended to make its width 25-30 cm larger than the cornice (the total width, in this case, should be more than 60 cm). In most cases, the total width of the blind area does not exceed 80 cm, but when working on heaving type soils, the mentioned indicator increases to an average of 100 cm.
Blind areas: a - clay gravel; b - concrete; c - asphalt; g - cobblestone; 1 - compacted crushed stone 20 mm; 2 - clay; 3 - cement screed 15 mm; 5 - concrete preparation 100 mm; 5 - asphalt 15-20 mm; 6 - crushed stone 10 mm; 7 - cobblestone; 8 - sand preparation 50 mm
- Secondly, the blind area must be done with a slope in the direction of the site. The specific value of the slope is selected taking into account the characteristics of the finish coating. For example, in the case of a concrete blind area, a 3-10 degree slope from the walls is made. The minimum allowable slope value, regardless of the material used, should be 1.5 degrees.
- Thirdly, the blind area should be continuous, encircling the structure around the entire perimeter. It is strongly not recommended to make gaps - the overall quality of the structure will decrease significantly.
- Fourthly, the blind area cannot be associated with the foundation - these systems are characterized by varying degrees of settlement. In view of this, a minimum expansion joint of 1-1.2 cm must be maintained between the supporting structure and the surrounding surface. It can be filled with bitumen, sealed with sealant, filled with geotextiles and similar materials, or filled with sand.
Varieties of blind areas and their purpose
Depending on the material of manufacture, design features, service life and a number of other indicators, all existing types of blind areas can be classified into 3 main groups. Information about them is presented in the table.
Table. Types of blind area
| Group of blind areas | Description |
|---|---|
| This group includes monolithic concrete structures, asphalt blind areas, as well as coatings equipped with a bulk method (used cement mortar) on gravel, followed by ironing the fill. A monolithic structure, ceteris paribus, will serve no less than the building encircled by it. A significant disadvantage of such a system is the high cost and complexity of the arrangement. This is also true for asphalt: the use of tar, which is a binding element, is financially expedient only when performing large-scale road asphalting works. Important! If it is planned to insulate the blind area, a rigid system is the only possible option - it is pointless to insulate soft and semi-rigid coatings. Additional disadvantages of hard blind areas include their low decorative performance - a concrete or asphalt site can hardly be called very beautiful. |
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| The functions of the underlying layer here are performed by a multi-layer pillow, the top - paving slabs or paving stones. In addition to tiles and paving stones (the most popular options), reinforced concrete slabs, cobblestones, porcelain stoneware, etc. can be used. Self-leveling coatings are relatively easy to install, they require much less labor and financial investment compared to monolithic systems, but are not suitable for use on heaving type soils. |
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| A multi-layer pillow is set up, a layer of gravel is poured on top. They are the least financially costly and labor intensive. The disadvantage of soft blind area is the low service life, averaging up to 7 years. Along with this, such a design can be used without any fear in any climatic regions, without paying attention to the type of soil. Yes, and it is not difficult to disassemble a failed soft blind area in order to repair or replace it. Practice shows that it is advisable to use a soft blind area only as a temporary solution if there are problems with finances, time or labor resources - it is unlikely that you will like to do the same thing every 5-7 years. |
The most optimal type of coatings in terms of cost, quality and appearance are semi-rigid blind areas. They serve up to 20-30 years, are suitable for use in almost all climatic zones, with the exception of permafrost, are characterized by high maintainability and require relatively little resources for their arrangement.
An additional advantage of semi-rigid blind area is an attractive appearance. For example, by making a cover of paving slabs, the owner gets at his disposal a very beautiful area, no different from traditional garden paths. At the same time, semi-rigid blind areas are equipped in the same order - only the material of the finishing coating differs (usually it is paving stones or paving slabs).
Prices for paving slabs
paving slabs
The underlying layer (pillow) is made in the same order, regardless of the type of blind area chosen (the only exception is a monolithic concrete system, related issues will be considered separately).
As you can see in the image, the pillow consists of soil, clay and sand. In the case of a soft gravel blind area, a layer of crushed stone is poured on top. If a semi-rigid blind area is being built, a layer of gravel and an additional layer of sand are poured over the pillow shown in the image, after which tiles / paving stones are laid. In the case of pouring a hard site, a sand and gravel pad is equipped, sand and gravel are poured, insulation is laid, reinforcement is performed and a number of other activities are carried out prior to pouring the concrete mixture, which will be discussed separately in the corresponding section of the manual.
Sand cushion under the blind area 
Rubble pillow
The arrangement of the pillow is described in the table.
Table. Do-it-yourself blind area pillow
| Stage of work | Description |
|---|---|
| A trench is dug along the perimeter of the future blind area. Depth is determined by the type of soil. The minimum recommended indicator is 15-20 cm. When working on heaving soils, the depth should be increased to at least 30 cm. For greater convenience, you can pre-make the markup, based on the recommendations from the article on arranging the foundation, or go the simplest way: Drive metal rods or wooden pegs into the ground in the corners of the future blind area; Drive in intermediate pegs; Pull a mooring cord (or other similar rope) between the landmarks and dig in accordance with the prepared markings. At the same stage, you can set the previously mentioned gap between the foundation and the blind area, using any of the listed materials for this, for example, it is very convenient to work with damper tape and polyurethane sealant. Depending on the chosen type of blind area, at the same stage, you can set the required slope of the structure. To do this, it is enough to simply dig a trench to different depths at the points of inclination. The bottom of the trench is carefully compacted. To do this, you can use an ordinary log: take it in a vertical position, lift it up, lower it down with effort, and continue until the whole earth is rammed. |
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| Vertically evenly drive intermediate pegs into the ground, if this was not done at the marking stage. At the same time, they will act as formwork supports. Bars with a cross section of 2-3 (up to 5) cm will do - it no longer makes sense. Install supports in half-meter increments. The principle is shown in the image. Armed with a level, mark the height of the formwork on the pegs. You will nail the boards according to the marks. |
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| Boards with a thickness of 3-4 cm are suitable for the construction of formwork. Select the height of the elements in accordance with the parameters of the blind area. For greater convenience, you can pre-mark the boards with the height of the future layers that make up the pillow. The corners of the structure can be pulled together outside corners. To fasten the elements, it is preferable to use bolts - such fasteners are easier to dismantle. Bolts with a diameter of up to 1 cm will be enough. Important! If you do not plan to dismantle the formwork in the future, pre-treat its wooden components with an antiseptic and wrap it with roofing felt or other insulating material - unprotected wood will soon begin to rot, which will not have the best effect on the quality of the blind area. Note one. The image shows reinforcement. We are not paying attention to it yet. Note two. The image shows a variant with inclined supports. If you wish, you can give preference to this method - this moment does not matter in principle. In general, you can do without such supports, ensuring the stability of the boards with the help of installed with reverse side bricks/blocks. Important! The temperature seam is made not only at the junction of the blind area with the walls of the house, but also across the equipped structure. Failure to comply with this recommendation will lead to extremely unfavorable consequences: as a result of heaving of the soil with temperature differences, the blind area will crack over time. Transverse seams are arranged on average with a 2-meter gap. To ensure the required clearances, install boards up to 2 cm thick in the indicated increments, as shown in the image. Important! All wooden structural elements must be impregnated with an antiseptic before use. If a blind area is planned that does not involve pouring concrete, you can easily do without formwork - it's just more convenient with it. |
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| Pour a 10-15 cm (depending on the initial depth of the pit) layer of sand into the trench. If possible, use fine river sand. This layer of the pillow will take on the functions of waterproofing. The backfill is carefully compacted. You can use the same method as for tamping the soil. Spill the sand with water for better compaction. Important! A thickness of 10-15 cm should be obtained after tamping, and not the initial filling of the material. Crushed stone is covered with a 5-10 cm layer, again, depending on the initial depth of the trench. It is best to use sand of different fractions so that the number of voids in the backfill is minimal. Instead of crushed stone, you can fill in gravel or brick battle. This layer of the cushion will ensure the removal of moisture that has penetrated through the sand from the overlying structures. Important note! If a high location of groundwater is noted at the construction site, be sure to lay geotextiles between the sand and gravel layers for additional waterproofing. Make small (in the conditions under consideration, 5-10 cm is enough) overlaps on the formwork walls. Do not forget to maintain the specified slope of the surface (if provided) when filling sand and gravel. |
The pillow is ready. The further procedure is determined by the features of the type of blind area chosen by the developer. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the instructions for arranging the most common options for the design in question.
Soft crushed stone blind area
In fact, the pillow described above can be considered as a soft blind area made of gravel. To broaden your horizons, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with an alternative arrangement for such a design using additional waterproofing material.
Pre-dig a trench and fill in a layer of sand, leveling it and setting the required slope, as in the above instructions, then follow the steps below.
Table. Soft blind area
| Stage of work | Description |
|---|---|
| A layer of waterproofing material is laid on top of the sand. Many developers use roofing material, but we recommend giving preference to rubimast - it costs a little more, but it lasts much longer. In this example, a formwork 80 cm wide is set up. The width of the rubimast roll is 100 cm. In order not to cut the material, simply bend its excess and glue it to the wall using molten bitumen or another suitable composition. |
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| A 10 cm layer of a mixture is poured over the waterproofing material, including an equal amount of sand and gravel / crushed stone. The backfill is carefully compacted and leveled in compliance with the specified slope. | |
| over sand and gravel backfill you can pour an additional 3-5-centimeter (or to the top) layer of gravel and compact it well - so the blind area will definitely not sag while walking on it. |
Temporary soft gravel blind area is ready. If desired, you can hide the formwork boards with decorative borders.
Prices for crushed stone
Basic information
As noted, the technology for arranging the blind area with a finish coating in the form of paving stones and tiles remains the same. The choice of a particular material is up to the owner, but there are a few important considerations.
So, the use of paving stones is permissible only if the foundation has previously been waterproofed. Among the shortcomings of paving stones, one can only note a relatively high cost.
Tile is one of the most popular materials widely used in arranging the blind area. This option has a number of significant advantages:
- tiles are much cheaper than concrete in the amount necessary to fill the site;
- the material is presented in a huge range of size variations, colors and shapes, which allows you to get exactly the finish option that the owner wants to see it;
- tiles can be laid on their own, spending relatively little time on this - you definitely won’t have to wait 3-4 weeks until the concrete hardens.
Prices for paving stones
paving stones
What tile to use?
When choosing a tile for the blind area, follow the tips below.
Council the first. To perform the work in question, tiles made using the vibrocompression method are best suited. By purchasing such material, you significantly reduce the risk of acquiring a fake for yourself, because. the manufacture of this finish in artisanal conditions is impossible - for the production of tiles of this group, serious expensive industrial equipment is used.
Vibrocast tiles (the second popular variety) are relatively easy to make in an ordinary garage. It costs less, but the actual quality of such products usually remains a mystery.
Tip two. Pre-prepare a plan for the future arrangement of tiles on paper or in a special computer program - so you can choose the pattern you like best and make it easier for yourself to continue the work. If you wish, you can use one of the ready-made options presented in the images.
Tip three. Choose tiles for paving the blind area that will go well with other paths and other areas with similar finishes located on the site.
Paving technology
You have already made a pillow for the blind area. Further work is performed in the sequence shown in the table.
Table. Do-it-yourself tile blind area
| Stage of work | Description |
|---|---|
| As you can see on one of the above images, blind area cushion with paving tiles has an additional top layer in the form of sand backfill. Pour 8-10 cm of sand over gravel. Recommendations in leveling and material rammers are similar previously equipped layer. |
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| Proceed to paving the blind area. Tiles lay from any convenient angle. Move away from you. Place elements according to the principle brickwork, i.e. with offset seams in adjacent rows. You can choose a specific styling option from the previously proposed illustrations or come up with your own. |
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| A rubber mallet is used to ensure a snug fit of the tile / paving stone to the base. Working with the tool is carried out in the following order: The tile is laid; A wooden plank is placed on top of it; The performer gently taps on the plank, trying hard enough, but gently, to press the tile with a mallet through the said gasket. Each tile is laid in this sequence. |
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| Using a spirit level, check the evenness of the tiles in relation to each other and the ratio of the rows. Sprinkle sand under the sagging trim elements, precipitate the protruding parts of the tile with a mallet, following the above guide, while maintaining the desired slope of the blind area. Pave the entire site in accordance with the above sequence. If you need to cut tiles, do it with a grinder. |
Important note! Many developers insist that a layer of cement screed be poured before laying paving stones / tiles. We advise you to lay the finish directly on the compacted sand - in this case, more efficient water drainage through the gaps between the tiles down will be ensured. In the case of the arrangement of cement pouring, the permeability of the system will decrease, and this threatens the appearance of ice in the cold season and all the attendant troubles.
If, due to any circumstances, a blind area without the use of a cement screed is not possible, after filling the sand layer, do the following:
- prepare a mixture of 1 share of cement (from M400), 3 shares of sand (sifted, fine, river) and clean water in an amount sufficient to obtain a homogeneous plastic solution of medium density;
- spread the solution over the surface of the site to be equipped with a trowel or any other suitable tool, then level it with a mop or a long straight rail (rule). The final thickness of the cement layer should be 30-40 mm.
After waiting for the cement to dry, proceed to laying the tiles. It is most convenient to use glue designed specifically for fixing the considered finishing materials. Check the manufacturer's instructions for the preparation and proper use of the adhesive - for different compositions, these points may differ.
Some developers even accept a cement-filled structure without subsequent finishing as a finished blind area.
This option is possible, but its appearance does not satisfy everyone. If desired, special coloring pigments can be added to the cement composition - the surface will take on a more attractive appearance.
Concrete pavement
An option for owners who are accustomed to doing everything thoroughly and for a long time. Having once spent a relatively significant amount on the arrangement of a concrete blind area, you will have at your disposal a durable, reliable and most durable structure.
We will talk about the procedure for arranging an insulated reinforced concrete blind area. The presence of a heat-insulating layer will have a beneficial effect on a number of key operational and technical characteristics of the foundation, basement and the entire structure as a whole. If you wish, you can exclude the steps that affect the installation of insulation from the manual and use the same instructions, but it is strongly not recommended to refuse thermal insulation.
Insulated blind area made of concrete - photo of layers 
Concrete pavement - scheme
Ideally, the width of the insulated blind area should correspond to or exceed the depth of soil freezing. In practice, a device of a similar design, firstly, will require very large financial investments, and secondly, it will take away the usable area of \u200b\u200bthe site. In view of this, developers adhere to the "golden mean", which is 700-900 mm.
Before starting work, you need to choose a suitable thermal insulation material. In order for the choice to be as objective and correct as possible, it is necessary to take into account a number of significant points.
- Firstly, this is the ratio of the cost of insulation and its characteristics.
- Secondly, the operating conditions (in the ground, outdoors, i.e. the material should not rot).
- Thirdly, the climate at the location of the building.
Based on the above criteria, the most optimal material for insulation of the blind area is foam. Extruded polystyrene foam performs even better, but it costs more. For most regions of the Russian Federation, a 5-centimeter layer of insulation is sufficient. In particularly cold areas, this figure can be increased to 10 cm. In this case, it is better to equip the insulation in 2 layers.
The composition of the pillow for the concrete blind area remains similar to the previous designs, but the sequence of actions undergoes certain changes.
First of all, you need to understand the nuances of lateral insulation of the structure. If the impossibility of subsequent dismantling of the wooden formwork does not bother you (for example, subsequent decoration of visible structural elements with special borders or other suitable elements is planned), you can simply glue the insulation boards to pre-assembled boards using a binder composition designed specifically for polystyrene foam materials.
In addition, available Alternative option: slate sheets are wrapped in plastic wrap and deepened into the ground along the blind area. If such a design remains in sight after the event in question, it will be much easier to disguise it than wooden elements. This system looks like this.
Improvised formwork with heat-insulating material is installed along the entire length of the blind area. Bricks can be used as supports or building blocks by placing them on the ground from the back of the formwork. Will be shown in the following photos.
The foam plastic will already stand quite confidently on a pre-compacted base, while it will be supported by the materials that are poured further. For greater confidence, you can bury the plates in the ground for a couple of centimeters or glue the insulation to the slate. It is not worth using mechanical fasteners - each hole in the slate leads to a decrease in its strength, and in the foam - to the formation of cold bridges.
From the insulation, in this case, you can make a damper layer between the basement of the house and the blind area. With the help of a separating layer, you can ensure that the slope of the formwork is maintained: for this, it (the damper) must have a greater height in relation to the opposite wall.
After installing the side heat-insulating plates, make the pillow discussed earlier. Its composition will be the same as when arranging the blind area with subsequent paving with paving slabs.
Table. Do-it-yourself concrete pavement
| Stage of work | Description |
|---|---|
| In this case, it was decided to use a two-layer thermal insulation of conventional foam and extruded polystyrene foam. First, a layer of foam is equipped. The plates are stacked as tightly as possible to each other. Bricks are used for temporary fixation. Having laid out the entire area with insulation, blow out the existing gaps mounting foam. Let it dry, cut off any excess sharp knife and proceed to laying the second insulating layer. Plates of extruded polystyrene foam in most cases are equipped with end grooves, the presence of which eliminates the possibility of gaps between the elements laid next to each other. Important! Heat-insulating layers are laid with bandaging of seams, i.e. the joints of the top row must be offset relative to the joints of the bottom row. If you need to trim the plates, you can use an ordinary sharp knife for this. |
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| For reinforcement, you can buy a ready-made mesh or make it yourself from reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm. The bars are assembled into a grid with cells of 150x150 mm and fastened at the intersections with a knitting wire (cheaper) or special clamps (faster and easier). The grid must be laid indented from the base. To ensure it, special clamps-props are used. In the absence of a sufficient budget, you can get by with stones, broken bricks, etc. In this case, it will not work to provide a 5-centimeter indent, as when pouring the foundation, because. this will lead to an inappropriate increase in the height of the blind area. Try to maintain at least a 5-10 mm gap. |
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| Concrete is prepared according to a standard recipe: a share of cement of a grade not lower than M400 is mixed with 3 shares of sifted sand and 4-5 shares of gravel or crushed stone. Water is added in such an amount that a plastic homogeneous mass of normal density is obtained at the output. The pouring of the finished solution is carried out in the same way as the cement-sand mixture, i.e. the composition is laid out on top of the base and leveled with a mop or other suitable fixture, for example, the rules are a long straight rail. The function of the beacons in this case will be taken over by the side walls of the formwork. After pouring, pierce the concrete with a reinforcing bar in several places to release excess air, seal the resulting depressions with mortar, sprinkle the surface with a thin layer of dry cement and leave the structure to gain strength. According to GOST, this takes 28 days. To protect the structure from precipitation, cover it with plastic wrap. Periodically (every 1-2 days) lift the film, spill the concrete with a little water and cover it back - thanks to this, the maximum amount of cement will react, which will ensure a higher final quality of the concrete structure. |
Useful advice! Before pouring the concrete mixture, cover the parts of the insulation protruding above the ground with a fiberglass mesh. To fasten it with foam, ordinary PVA glue is suitable. The presence of a mesh will protect the insulation from possible damage.
In this case, it was decided to abandon the intermediate transverse damper partitions from the boards (described earlier). The structure is insulated in 2 layers and on the sides, which is why the thermal insulation simultaneously takes on the function of dampers, and it is better not to break the reinforcement - the strength will decrease.
concrete mix prices
concrete mix
Drainage Issues
To ensure the effective removal of atmospheric precipitation, the blind area is equipped with a drainage system. The design is elementary in its execution:
- an asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 10 cm or more is cut lengthwise into 2 parts. A grinder is suitable for cutting;
- the resulting halves of the pipe are laid along the perimeter of the blind area close to it;
- in the corners of the blind area at the junction of the pipes mentioned above, integral drainage systems are placed. The same asbestos-cement pipes will do. To accommodate them, trenches are dug. Choose the dimensions of the pit so that at least 5 cm of free space remains on the sides and top of the pipe. At the bottom of the trench, first fill in a 5-centimeter layer of sand and tamp. The pipes themselves are wrapped in geotextile and diverted towards the wastewater collection structure. The specific option depends on the individual characteristics of the arrangement of the site.
The described drainage looks like this:
To improve the appearance of the concrete blind area, it can be tiled or decorated with other material of the owner's choice.
Successful work!
Video - Do-it-yourself blind area
After the construction of a house or any other building, the priority is to build a blind area around the perimeter of the building. This protective layer, encircling the building along its border, and serving to divert water from the house at a certain distance. It performs a number of useful functions that ensure the protection of the foundation and long-term operation buildings in general. The purpose of this article is to show how you can make a blind area around the house with your own hands, choosing the most suitable option for it.
- Foundation protection. Being properly laid, the blind area prevents the penetration of rain and melt water to the foundation of the building. This helps to maintain the integrity of the foundation, which can be broken by moisture penetrating into the ground and freezing.
- Increasing the thermal insulation of the foundation and at home in general. The blind area creates an additional insulating layer that reduces the impact of negative temperatures on the soil around the building.
- The blind area complements the building, giving the house completeness. Often the appearance of the blind area is selected so that it is in harmony with the structure.
- Practical application in the form of a footpath. Thus, the possibility of convenient movement around the building or between neighboring buildings is achieved.
Types of blind area
Before you start making a blind area, you need to decide which of its types you will use. We list the possible options:
Tip: It is not recommended to use porcelain stoneware as a blind area cover. When placed in the top layer of concrete, it will have a different coefficient of expansion with temperature fluctuations than concrete. The result may be rupture or cracking of porcelain stoneware.
Construction rules
When building a blind area around the house, you should be guided by several mandatory rules:
Advice: Wooden slats used to make expansion joints, be sure to cover with some kind of water-repellent material to prevent them from rotting. It can be bitumen diluted in kerosene, drying oil, mastic, etc.
We make a blind area from concrete
This is a building classic that is used for most buildings. The concrete pavement around the house must be made in accordance with all the rules applicable to this type of structure. It is quite reliable and simple design.
What is required for construction:
- bayonet shovel, which will remove the soil;
- cord for marking;
- building level for correct exposure formwork and ensuring the angle of inclination of the pour;
- Master OK;
- rule for smoothing the solution;
- sand;
- boards for formwork and expansion joints;
- crushed stone;
- water;
- ready-made concrete mortar or cement;
- roofing material or bitumen to create expansion joints;
- container for mixing the solution, if it will be made independently.
The procedure for the manufacture of a blind area of concrete
Now consider how to fill the blind area around the house with a concrete solution.
1. Marking the construction site. At this stage, pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the building, located at equal distances from the walls of the building. A distance of 1.5-2 m is maintained between the pegs. A cord is pulled, limiting the width of the future formwork.
2. By means of a bayonet shovel is removed ground layer to a depth of 30 cm. As a result, a trench should form between the foundation and the stretched cord. To improve the waterproofing properties of the blind area, it is recommended to lay a layer of clay on the bottom of the trench.
3. The trench bottom is compacted. For this purpose, it is best to use a rounded log.
Tip: If plant roots remain in the trench, then the bottom of the trench is additionally treated with special chemicals to destroy them. Such processing will not allow plants to destroy the already finished formwork.
4. Formwork is placed along the perimeter of the trench. For its manufacture, you can use boards, pieces of flat slate and other materials. Boards can be fixed to the pegs with self-tapping screws, and other materials are fixed with spacers.
5. Sand is backfilled into the trench with a layer of 10 cm, which is desirable to moisten with water and compact.
6. Crushed stone is laid on the sand, but gravel can also be used. Backfill layer - 6-8 cm.
7. Across the trench, with a step of 2 meters, boards are placed on the edge, which will compensate for the temperature shifts of the concrete layer. In addition, the boards will play the role of beacons during concreting.
8. A reinforcing mesh is laid on the crushed stone or a frame is made of reinforcement with a cell of 10 cm. If reinforcement is used, then all joints are interconnected by welded joints or wire.
9. Concrete mortar is poured in compliance with the appropriate slope. Using the rule, the solution is smoothed between wooden beacons.
10. While the solution has not solidified, ironing of its surface is carried out. To do this, the concrete surface is sprinkled with cement and smoothed with a trowel. This helps to reduce the porosity of the finished surface.
Making a soft blind area
The so-called soft blind area around the house can be independently made using the following materials and tools:
- bayonet shovel;
- cord and pegs;
- crushed stone;
- clay;
- sand;
- roll waterproofing material.
A crushed stone blind area around the house is usually done in cases where the owners do not plan to regularly repair this structure, as well as with insufficient financial resources. She has enough simple design and set up time is kept to a minimum.
Manufacturing procedure
1. The site is marked and the cord is pulled over the driven pegs.
2. A trench is dug between the cord and the wall of the house, having a depth of 30 cm.
3. The trench is lined with a layer of clay of at least 10 cm. The clay is well compacted.
4. A roll waterproofer is laid on the clay. A thick euroroofing material is best suited. It must definitely go on the wall by 10-15 centimeters.
Important: Do not lay the waterproofing membrane with an interference fit, as expanding water and soil movements can break it in the cold. Let the material be better located freely and have several folds.
5. The water insulator is covered with a small layer of sand.
6. The rest of the space up to the surface of the trench is covered with rubble.
It is advisable to make such a blind area if water does not get on it from the roof. Otherwise, the water will form gullies in it.
We looked at how to make a soft blind area around the house. . If desired, you can ennoble the design, making it more attractive. A layer of rubble on top can be covered with sand, and paving slabs can be laid on top.
Blind area insulation
A warm coating will increase the temperature in the basement, making it more comfortable to stay in them. For work, it is better to use extruded polystyrene foam, popular in the construction environment. It has a high density and cuts well.
The insulated blind area around the house is made in the following sequence:
- Formwork is installed by analogy with a concrete blind area.
- A 15 cm trench is covered with dry sand.
- The sand is covered with roofing material, which goes to the wall.
- Sheet insulation is cut with a knife to the specified dimensions and placed on top of the roofing material. Ensures that there is no movement of the material. A heater of the same thickness and one structure is used.
- A reinforcing mesh is placed on top of the insulation.
- The last layer is concrete.
Such insulation of the blind area with extruded polystyrene foam does not outwardly differ from the usual concrete pouring, but is more desirable for houses with heated basements or with shallow foundations, as well as for heaving soils.
Making a blind area around the house yourself is a great way to relatively inexpensively and efficiently protect your buildings from the harmful effects of moisture. When the work is done independently, there can be no neglect of the subject of construction.
Video
After the construction of the house is completed, it is imperative to install the blind area. It will protect the foundation from soaking and cracking, and will also significantly extend the life of the building. The design is quite simple and therefore the blind area can be made with your own hands - step-by-step instruction and recommendations will help you go through all the installation steps without errors.
The appearance of the blind area
Paving around the house
The blind area around the house is quite simple and consists of two main elements: a substrate and a coating. The main role of the substrate is to create an even and solid base for laying the protective coating. Usually two layers of clay or sand and crushed stone act as a substrate. The use of clay is good in that it is able to perform a waterproofing function and not allow moisture to pass through itself, but for this it will need to be laid with high quality and to achieve uniformity of the layer. Sand is easier to use, as it can easily smooth out any uneven ground surfaces.
Simplified diagram of the design of the blind area
The coating can be any suitable material that has the following properties:
- Have sufficient strength to withstand the expected mechanical stress.
- They have high quality waterproofing properties.
- Resistant to sudden changes in temperature.
- Due to the smooth surface, they are able to qualitatively remove moisture from the foundation.
Therefore, concrete, asphalt, stone or tile coatings are mainly used for blind areas.
How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands? We will talk about competent design and installation in a special publication of our portal.
Photo blind areas around the house: the main types of structures
When designing a photo, blind areas around houses will greatly simplify their choice. There are such types of structures:
- Rigid. They are structures based on hard coatings that retain their shape under load without deformation. Usually made of concrete or asphalt. The terms of their service are usually compared with the duration of the operation of the building. At the cost of laying, rigid structures will cost more than others, since they require mandatory insulation and waterproofing. Require for installation the presence of soil of medium or high density.
Scheme of a rigid blind area
Rigid appearance
- Soft. Differ in simple laying technology and minimum requirements during operation. Actually consists of several layers. bulk materials. Requires minimal cost and physical effort for installation. The service life is on average 5-7 years. They can be laid on any type of soil, including loose ones. They are used mainly for temporary purposes, since their appearance is not entirely aesthetic and is unlikely to fit into the design of the facade of the building.
Scheme of soft blind area
Appearance soft design
- Semi-rigid. They represent a compromise between rigid and soft structures in terms of financial and physical costs. The outer layer is usually laid out with tiles, stone or reinforced concrete slabs. The service life can be up to several tens of years. They have excellent maintainability, since it is possible to replace or shift part of the structure without any problems. However, they are limited for use in high elevation areas. ground water, on soils with a large freezing depth and on heaving soils. Cost installation work will cost less than hard ones, but at the same time the highest quality aesthetic appearance will be achieved.
Scheme of a semi-rigid blind area
The appearance of a semi-rigid structure
Determination of blind area parameters
In order to understand how to properly make blind areas around houses, it is necessary to correctly select its technical parameters. One of them is the width. It is determined by the current building codes and regulations, which say that it should be 20 cm longer than the most protruding part of the roof slope. Usually given size counted from the drains. The width of the blind area around the house is determined based on the type of material chosen, the density of the soil on the site and the magnitude of the expected loads of a variable and static nature. In most cases, the width of the structure for private houses is at least 1 m.
Another parameter is the degree of penetration of the structure into the ground. It is mainly influenced by the level of soil freezing. In regions where there is a significant decrease in air temperature, a soil property such as heaving has a significant impact on the structure, which can damage it literally in a year without the possibility of recovery. Therefore, the level of the filling must provide sufficient strength so that it effectively resists heaving and does not deform. The minimum depth is at least 10 cm, including a layer of sand and gravel cushion. If constant loads are assumed, then the thickness is recommended to be increased to 15-20 cm.
Sketch of the blind area with the designation of dimensions
For high-quality removal of precipitation, the surface must have a certain slope. The angle to the horizontal, on the one hand, is influenced by the amount of precipitation in a particular region, and on the other hand, by the convenience of using the structure as a footpath or for other purposes. The optimal value is considered to be 2-3 °.
In order to prevent flooding of the structure, it is recommended to make it 5 cm higher from the ground surface. If there are trees or shrubs near the house, they will need to be uprooted at a distance of up to about 1.5 m from the house.
Attention! It is possible to protect the structure from destruction by the roots of trees or any plants by installing a curb.
Preparatory work
Preparation for installation is carried out in several stages:
- Territory marking.
- Carrying out earthworks.
- Underlayment laying.
We carry out the marking of the territory for the installation of a blind area
With the help of pegs around the perimeter of the house, it is necessary to mark up. To do this, we measure a distance of 1 m from the walls with a tape measure and drive wooden pegs to a depth of 0.5 m in the corners so that it is possible to carry out earthworks without moving them from their place. We pull the rope on them.
Helpful information! If the building has a large area, then it is recommended to install additional pegs along the walls every 2.5-3 m.
Marking the area under the blind area
Earthwork stage
Using a shovel, it is necessary to dig a trench according to the markings made. The depth is determined by the type of structure chosen, climatic features and soil composition. The layer should be removed evenly with a slope of 2-3° from the building. This is easy enough to do by setting the digging depth along the building and along the marking line.
Since the main foundation and the blind area design will have different coefficients of thermal expansion, it is recommended to create a thermal gap between them of 1-2 mm. To do this, after stopping digging, a damping layer based on polyurethane tape should be laid along the wall.
The bottom of the trench should be carefully compacted with a special tool, which is a steel rod with a flat sheet welded on at the lower end. If such a device is not at hand, then you can use an ordinary log.
Laying a pillow under the blind area
At the bottom of the prepared trench, it is necessary to lay waterproofing and fill in a layer of sand 10-20 cm thick, depending on the type of construction and the depth of the trench, with careful tamping and leveling. For the convenience of work, it is recommended to shed the layer with plenty of water in order to maximize its compaction. However, before laying the outer layer, you will need to wait until the pillow dries.
Laying waterproofing followed by backfilling and compacting sand
On top of the sand, it is necessary to fill in gravel with a fraction size of up to 5 cm, and level the top layer with crushed stone with a grain size of up to 5 mm. This will save building material on the outer layer due to the absence of the need to fill the formed pores.
How to make a blind area around the house?
The installation process depends on the type of construction and the material chosen. For example, when laying a soft structure, no additional work will be required, but when installing a rigid structure, you will need to lay several waterproofing layers. How to properly install will be described in the following subsections.
Installation of a rigid blind area
It is recommended to install a rigid structure on a heat and waterproofing layer, which will significantly extend the life of the structure. For these purposes, it is recommended to use thermal insulation materials, which are highly resistant to moisture and have increased strength under significant mechanical loads. An example would be styrofoam or polystyrene boards.
Installation of formwork and waterproofing
To understand the technology of pouring a blind area around a concrete house, how to make formwork and what sequence of actions to follow, you need to read the step-by-step instructions. It looks like this:
- From the corner of the building along the wall, we install the first plate, checking the correct position using the building level.
- We fix the insulation on a suitable type of fastening, firmly pressing it against the wall.
- We install butt to the first plate the next one with a minimum gap.
- We carry out the fixing of the plate, and the joint is carefully sealed with building foam.
- Similarly, we lay the entire perimeter of the walls with heat-insulating material.
Attention! If the blind area is installed in the northern regions, then it is recommended to lay two layers of insulation with dressing of the joints of the two layers. This will avoid the formation of cold bridges.
Installation of polystyrene boards
Before pouring concrete into the formwork, it is necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh. For these purposes, ready-made meshes with a bar diameter of 8-10 mm and a cell size of 10-15 cm are used. It is important to carry out the laying in such a way that the steel bars are in the concrete layer. To do this, you need to use special plastic props.
It is recommended that the structure be poured with concrete mortar grade M400 or higher, and at a time, so that the structure acquires maximum strength. Therefore, you need to calculate the approximate volume in advance and order a solution in the right amount at a cement plant.
When pouring, it is important to create a uniform layer, for which the concrete is carefully smoothed over the surface with a shovel or mop. Additionally, the solution must be stirred to remove air bubbles from the layer. After driving the layer to the level of the edges of the formwork, it is necessary to level the surface as a rule. The side parts of the formwork will serve as guides.
At the final stage, the surface of the blind area must be sprinkled with a thin layer of cement. To ensure ideal conditions for concrete to harden, it will be necessary to cover the entire upper part with a layer of polyethylene. Every day it is necessary to moisten the surface with water. The curing time is 28 days depending on the temperature and humidity of the environment.
Installation of hard blind area completed
Installation of a soft blind area
A soft blind area around the houses is laid on a waterproofing layer laid on top of a sand cushion. As an insulating material, it is recommended to use rubemast, which has extended term services. Laying is carried out with an overlap at a distance of 10-15 cm, not only along the main surface, but also on the walls of the main building. The connecting seams are sealed with bitumen under the heat of the burner.
Laying of crushed stone blind area completed
On top of the waterproofing, it is necessary to pour a 10 cm layer of a dry mixture of sand and gravel in the same proportions. Then the surface should be carefully compacted and leveled. In this case, it is necessary to maintain the angle of inclination. Another layer of crushed stone with a grain size of not more than 5 mm is laid on top of the embankment and is also compacted.
Do-it-yourself semi-rigid blind area: step by step instructions
Is it possible to create a semi-rigid structure on your own in the absence of suitable experience? The task is completely solvable and a reliable blind area can be created with your own hands - a step-by-step instruction will allow you to go through all the stages without errors. It is installed directly on the prepared sand and gravel cushion, on top of which an additional layer of sand 8-10 cm thick is poured. In this case, the layout can be absolutely any and not limited to anything. The main requirement is to create joints of minimum thickness.
The laying technology step by step is as follows:
- The first tile is placed on the leveled base.
- With the help of a mallet, its surface is gently tapped to ensure reliable fixation.
Aligned tile laying
- The level must necessarily control the angle of inclination in order to prevent distortion.
- The next tile is placed end-to-end with the previous one.
- For alignment, it is necessary to lay a wooden plank on the surface of the tiles and by tapping to achieve their correct position.
- If there is a subsidence of one of the corners of the tile, then you need to add a little sand and repeat the alignment with a mallet.
- If you need to cut tiles for laying under the wall of the house or along the curb, you need to use a grinder.
- We carry out laying of paving slabs over the entire area of the blind area.
Paving tiling completed
How to repair the blind area?
The blind area around the house, if you do not know the nuances of laying technology, how to properly pour concrete or lay tiles, will obviously contain such defects that will pop up sooner or later and require repair work. Restoration is made depending on the degree of its damage:
- If there are cracks no more than 1 mm, repairs are not required, since they are not critical and in no way worsen performance characteristics designs.
- If the size of the cracks is up to 3 mm, then it is recommended to apply the filling with a water-cement mortar in the same proportions. After the mortar dries, a durable layer will be created that will provide maximum protection for the foundation of the building.
- For cracks up to 3 cm, it will be necessary to fill with concrete mortar, having previously cleaned them of dirt and treated them with a deep penetration primer. It is also allowed to use waterproof putties or sealants.
Sealing cracks in the blind area with a width of up to 3 cm
- Cracks more than 3 cm - it is necessary to study the strength of the structure and evaluate its maintainability. It may be necessary to remove part of the top layer and level the pillow. After making sure that the bearing capacity of the structure is sufficient, concrete should be poured.
- The crumbling of the blind area is eliminated by applying a water-cement composition to the surface in order to strengthen it.
Conclusion
It is shown that the installed blind area with your own hands can serve long time if step-by-step instructions were used and building technologies were followed. The main installation methods for all types of blind area are given. Some methods of repairing damage to the outer surface of the structure are indicated.
Do-it-yourself blind area: step-by-step instructions and installation nuances
In this review, we will describe in detail how the blind area is done by hand. Step-by-step instructions and recommendations will help you go through all the installation steps without errors.
Even the strongest foundation is exposed to moisture over time, which gradually reduces the load on the drainage system of the house, as well as on vertical waterproofing. To prevent this from happening, do-it-yourself concrete blind area is performed, the step-by-step instructions of which will be discussed in the article.
Concrete blind area is a necessary coating to protect the foundation
In addition to its main function (protection against interaction with moisture), this coating also allows you to arrange a pedestrian zone around the perimeter of the house and give the architectural appearance of the building a complete look.
However, before pouring the blind area, you need to pay attention to its design features and requirements for construction objects of this type.
blind area design
The concrete blind area has a fairly simple design, the preparation of which will require the following materials:
- Bedding (pillow). It is performed before pouring the solution. A variety of materials are used as bedding: coarse or medium sand, sand-gravel mixture, crushed stone, fine gravel. The blind area of the foundation does not fit on fine sand because of the likelihood of shrinkage, since in this case there is a risk that the base will crack. It is best to prepare a two-layer pillow: first lay gravel or crushed stone, which will compact the soil, and then sand.
- Reinforcement. The presence of a reinforcing mesh for a concrete blind area will give the structure more strength. The mesh size of this product is usually 30 x 30 or 50 x 50 cm. The mesh diameter should be about 6-8 mm, but it all depends on the type of soil.
- Formwork. Wooden guides located along the perimeter of the coating are required, as they will prevent the concrete mixture from spreading. The width of the formwork boards, as a rule, is 20-25 mm.
- Concrete solution. Filling the blind area is carried out using a certain composition of the concrete mixture.
The brand of mortar must be carefully selected, since the strength and durability of the entire structure will depend on its quality and characteristics. For such a coating, Mixture M 200 is usually used, the strength class of which is at least B 15 (a higher grade can also be purchased). It is also worth paying attention to the frost resistance of the composition, which should not be less than F 50. To ensure better resistance to drops temperature conditions, it is recommended to give preference to compositions with an indicator of F 100.
To obtain quality coating, it is most profitable to make a concrete mix on your own.
We make concrete mix for the blind area at home
To organize a concrete pavement around the house, it is not necessary to buy a ready-made mixture and order an expensive delivery with a concrete mixer. Knowing the proportions of the components, you can make concrete M 200 yourself, this will require:
- 1 part cement (optimal is Portland cement 400);
- 3 parts sand (better than medium, but fine-grained is also suitable);
- 4 parts of coarse aggregate (gravel or crushed stone);
- ½ part water.
Accordingly, to get 1 cubic meter of concrete, you need to mix:
- 280 kg of cement;
- 1100 kg of crushed stone;
- 800 kg of sand;
- 190 liters of water.
Also using PC 400, you can get other brands.
Healthy! First of all, cement and water are mixed, and only after the composition has turned out to be homogeneous, sand and gravel are added to it.
In order for the construction of the blind area to be strong, and the concreting to be durable, it is provided certain rules and requirements.
Design requirements
To fill the blind area of \u200b\u200bthe house with concrete, you must familiarize yourself with the regulations and recommendations of SNiP:
- The width of the blind area should be 20 cm more than the roof overhang (SNiP 2.02.01-83). If the structure provides for a drain, then its indicators are also taken into account. The optimal value is 1 meter. In this case, you can lay out a tile path around the house.
- The length of the do-it-yourself blind area around the house should correspond to the perimeter of the building. However, if you plan to install a concrete porch, then a "gap" is acceptable.
- Depth. The level of penetration of the "tape" is half the estimated depth of freezing of the earth.
- The thickness of the concrete blind area is also regulated by SNiP and, according to these requirements, should be at least 7-10 cm for the top layer. However, many make concreted parking spaces for private cars along with the blind area. In this case, the operational load increases, and the thickness of the concrete blind area can reach up to 15 cm.
- bias. According to SNiP III-10-75, the slope should be from 1 to 10 cm per meter of width. Most often, it is 2-3 cm per meter - this is approximately 2-3 degrees. The angle of inclination must be directed in the direction opposite to the foundation. Increasing the slope is not recommended, as in this case it will be difficult to walk along such a path in winter time when ice forms on the surface.
- Border. The device of the blind area at home does not include the mandatory manufacture of a border, therefore, in this case, the decision is made by the owners of suburban real estate. However, experts recommend installing such "limiters" if trees and shrubs with an "aggressive" root system (blackberry, raspberry, plane tree, poplar, and others) grow near the foundation.
- Plinth height. For a hard type (concrete) cover, the plinth must be at least 50 cm.
- The recommended height of the blind area above ground level is 5 cm or more.
There are also several schemes according to which a crushed stone blind area can be erected, in the form of a monolithic concrete coating, both for the usual type of soil and for the “problem” one.
Knowing the requirements of SNiP and the features of a suburban area, you can make a blind area with your own hands using the step-by-step instructions below.
We make a blind area on our own
The blind area device technology includes several stages that even a beginner in construction work can handle.
Training
In order to start creating a protective coating around the house, prepare:
- pick;
- twine;
- roulette;
- tamper;
- pegs for marking;
- waterproof film (geotextile);
- concrete mixture;
- formwork boards;
- hacksaw;
- level;
- nails;
- reinforcement material, welding machine and wire cutters;
- as a rule, trowel, spatula;
- sealant for processing seams (it is better to purchase a polyurethane composition).
markup
The arrangement of the blind area around the house begins with the preparation of the area for construction. At this stage, it is necessary to mark the perimeter of the future "tape", or rather a trench for it, with the help of a peg. There are several recommendations in this regard:
- The step between the beacons is 1.5 m.
- The depth of the trench will depend on the soil, but the minimum value for this value is 0.15-0.2 meters. If the earth is "heaving", then the depth increases to 0.3 m.
The easiest way to apply markup is to act in the following sequence:
- Drive metal or wood pegs into the ground in the corners of the house.
- Install intermediate beacons around the perimeter of the building.
- Pull the cord or rope, connecting all the pegs.
Healthy! Sealant can be used at this stage to separate the protective coating from the foundation.
After that, the slope of the system is formed, for this a trench is dug, in which the depth of one of its sides will be greater. To compact the resulting ditch, it is enough to use a tree. First, the log must be placed vertically, lifted and sharply lowered down with effort. Due to this, the bottom of the trench will be compacted.
formwork
For formwork, you will need boards on which it is better to immediately mark the height of the future pillow. Fasten the impromptu "box" in the corners metal corners(bolts on the outside).
Important! If you do not want to remove the formwork, after the concrete blind area is completed, be sure to treat the tree with an antiseptic compound and wrap the boards with roofing material.
Creating a pillow
In order for the concrete pavement to be made according to all the "canons" of construction, it is imperative to prepare a sandy or clay base for it. The thickness of the sand layer can reach up to 20 cm. It is best to lay the pillow in several layers, moistening and carefully tamping each subsequent layer. At the final stage, the surface must be leveled.
Waterproofing
A waterproofing device involves laying several layers of roofing felt or other geotextile on a pillow.
- The material needs to be “wrapped” a little on the walls in order to get an expansion joint.
- Roofing material must be overlapped.
- A thin layer of sand is poured over the geotextile, and then 10 cm of gravel.
- If you plan to install drainage system, then it is laid close to the resulting "water seal".
Reinforcement, pouring and drying
Above the level of 3 cm from the layer with crushed stone, it is necessary to lay metal mesh with a step of 0.75 m. After that, you need to mix the concrete and pour it in equal portions into the resulting formwork sections. In this case, the composition to be poured must reach the level of the upper edge of the wooden "box".
Healthy! After pouring, pierce the surface with an iron rod in several places to release excess air.
You can distribute the composition with a trowel or a rule. To increase the resistance of concrete, 2 hours after pouring, ironing is performed. To do this, the surface is covered with a layer of dry PC 400 3-7 mm thick.
Healthy! So that the composition does not crack, it must be moistened with water 1-2 times a day.
In addition to how to properly fill the blind area, you need to make sure that it does not crack during the drying process. To do this, you need to protect the coating from precipitation and the sun with a plastic film. It is believed that the blind area completely dries out in 10-14 days. However, according to the regulations for drying, it is worth taking at least 28 days.
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Regardless of the purpose of the building, it requires a blind area. Helpful Tips will help in answering the question: "How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands?". This is a useful building element, which is a strip of concrete mix that is adjacent to the building around the entire perimeter of the house. This design protects the foundation from soil displacement, from groundwater and precipitation. It is important to fill it before the onset of cold weather, as the frozen soil puts a lot of pressure on the foundation.
High-quality concrete tape around the building looks very aesthetically pleasing and is a great addition. landscape design
Before carrying out the installation for pouring, you need to select optimal width stripes. Wherein minimum size is equal to 0.9 meters. This element can reach a width of 2.5 meters.
In addition, the tape for diverting water is used as a walking path. It is worth calculating the size so that the concrete element extends beyond the boundaries of the cornices by 30 cm.
It is also important to choose the right slope of the strip in the direction from the walls. In this case, the area near the wall will have a small height, and the edge of the tape will go level with the ground.
When deciding how to make a comfortable blind area around the house with your own hands, it is worth considering lifting a height of 16 mm by 1 meter. At the same time, you can walk on it, and the liquid will not accumulate.
Helpful information! During the winter cold, this option can turn into a skating rink.
Preparation: important steps
Before pouring the blind area, produced preparatory work. You need to make a foundation. In this case, a concrete screed is performed:
- at a certain distance from the wall, pegs are driven in, and markings are made. A cord should be pulled over them;
- excavation is carried out, while the soil layer is removed by 20-25 cm. The depth of the recess should be the same everywhere;
- a layer of sand must be shed with water and compacted several times;
Useful advice! The sand should have a uniform structure without crushed stone and broken bricks.
How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands: important stages of work
Most often, the completed trench is concreted using formwork. Along the entire contour of the concrete tape, special equipped recesses (grooves) are mounted to remove water.
Related article:
How are expansion joints made?
At the junction of the wall and the protective concrete sheet, an expansion joint is made, the size of which varies from 1 to 2 cm in width. It is filled with sand and roofing material. You can also use a styrofoam band with a piece of plywood.
To simplify the laying of the blind area, you can mount the tape in separate blocks. For this, slats are used, which are installed across the formwork.
Useful advice! To prevent water from penetrating between the concrete and the rail, it is better to seal these areas with sealant.
How is formwork poured?
When deciding how to make a blind area around the house with your own hands, it is worth using concrete. The composition is prepared from one part of cement, part of sand and three parts of crushed stone. The mixture is poured in portions.
In this case, the end parts at the top of the jumpers coincide with the surface of the blind area. The concrete composition should be leveled with a wide trowel. The mixture is compacted with an iron rod or a vibrator. The reinforcing piece is immersed in concrete and rotates.
Punctures help eliminate bubbles. This makes the concrete more dense. To give strength to concrete, dry cement should be scattered, which will absorb excess moisture. Then, using a metal trowel, cement is well rubbed into the surface to a dark gray color.
The finished tape should be covered with burlap from the sun. If there is no rain, then the material must be periodically moistened with concrete, otherwise it will not gain strength. A blind area can be created by a person who does not have building skills.
Do-it-yourself blind area around the house: videos and useful recommendations
A monolithic tape around the building allows you to strengthen the waterproofing properties of the base and walls. Also, this part is distinguished by functional properties, and also performs an aesthetic function. The width of the tape must be more than a meter. This parameter depends on the protrusion of the roof structure.
Do-it-yourself blind area around the house made of concrete: video and installation features
When determining how to make a blind area around the house with your own hands, you need to properly excavate the soil. Be sure to treat all the walls of the excavation with a special compound that will help destroy weeds. If this is not done, then weed grass will destroy the structure made.
A curb stone or removable formwork is laid out along the entire contour of the structure. The bedding material is then produced and carefully compacted. Depending on the material to be used, the designs will differ in laying methods:
- laying stone or cobblestone. In this case, the height of the material should not be more than 10 cm. Installation is carried out on a laid out sand flooring. If crushed stone is used, then the thickness will be less. The space between the cobblestones is covered with sand;
- if you do a blind area around the house with your own hands from, then you do not need to lay an additional layer of fine gravel and sand. All voids between individual tiles are also sprinkled with sand. To make tile installation easy, you need to make a strip of such a size that you do not have to cut the tile.
Application is the most beneficial and the best option for arranging a blind area. Because it has many advantages. This is the possibility of repairing the coating in parts and a long service life.
If the soil is non-porous, then clay is used. If the soil is heaving, then a sandy layer is also used along with clay.
Installation of any blind area consists of the following steps:
- a sand cushion is placed on the base of the soil. A layer of crushed stone is leveled on top;
- between two surfaces at the junction there is a deformation layer. It will prevent cracking and deformation of the tape. Several layers of roofing material are mounted between the surface of the base and the blind area;
