Barrel for making compost with your own hands (photo). How to make compost in a barrel: installation methods, laying raw materials, ripening dates How to make a compost heap in a barrel

Do-it-yourself compost pit making options. Compost pit from a barrel

Tell me, please, how to make a compost pit from a metal barrel?

Compost heap from a barrel | StroySad

No garden is complete without a compost heap. Otherwise, it cannot be, because this is a very valuable fertilizer, which does not need to be spent. Any waste goes to the compost heap: weeds, needles, sawdust, cleaning. It seems all this is garbage, but what a useful one. Everyone has long been accustomed to the fact that compost is a heap in the literal sense of the word, rising above the ground, of course, not in the middle of the garden, but somewhere in a nook, so as not to spoil the overall view. But it is also worth saying that many gardeners have already managed to ennoble their compost heaps and transferred them to wooden boxes, and some went even further and adapted metal barrels for this important matter. And this is done very simply: we take old barrel without a bottom or deprive it of an already leaky bottom. Departing from the bottom of 10 centimeters, we punch 25-30 holes in a circle - this will be a kind of ventilation. It is advisable to paint the barrel black, the dark one always heats up well. Now we install this simple design in the right place and begin to fill it. We lay everything in layers, 20 centimeters of grass, then manure or nitrogenous substances, then ash and shake it with earth, so we alternate until it is completely filled. We cover the barrel with a film from above, it remains only to occasionally moisten the compost by spilling it with water. It turns out quite functional and aesthetically looking compost heap.

Compost is prepared to the desired state for a long time, but the process can be accelerated by about half, knowing some tricks. Here it is desirable to understand what is missing in your heap. Strange as it may sound, but she also has her own desires and she reports them, you just need to notice these signs. For example, if a very strong unpleasant smell of rot exudes, it means that you have gone too far with nitrogen and this is fraught with a delay in the readiness of the compost. It is necessary to add straw and turn the compost, thereby removing excess nitrogen. If compost long time does not show signs of decomposition, then there is not enough nitrogen.

Spill a bunch of urea solution - 2 tablespoons in a bucket of water or another, also effective solution: 1 cup of sugar and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of yeast per liter of water. Bacteria will increase, and the decomposition process will noticeably accelerate. For people with a limited amount of time invented and even more fast way- special preparations to speed up composting. Such simple methods are suitable for any compost heap located in a barrel, and in a box, and just in the garden.

4 rules for quality compost | ABC gardening

4 rules for quality compost

Are you against mineral chemical fertilizers? Do you want to minimize the use of chemical fertilizers on your garden plot? Then this article is for you. Look around. Right under your feet is what, if properly used, will become humus, which can be scattered in the garden, vegetable garden and flower beds.

What is compost Where and in what is it better to prepare compost What can be put in compost How to speed up the process of compost maturation Signs of quality compost

An interesting fact: Already in the 10th century, the secrets of making compost were known to Slavic tribes, for example, to the Polabian Slavs.

Compost is a natural universal organic fertilizer that any gardener, gardener and summer resident can get without unnecessary material costs and without much difficulty. Compost has a beneficial effect on the structure and fertility of the soil. You just need to know how to cook it right.

Rule 1 Where and what is the best way to compost

There are two options:

Compost pit/heap Compost bin or barrel

Benefits of a compost pit/heap

No need to look for additional materials and no need to build anything. You just dug a hole no more than 0.5 m deep and 1.5 m x 1.5 m in size and put organic remains (kitchen waste, weeds, fallen leaves, etc.) into this hole (you will get a bunch over time).

If desired, when the pit is filled flush with the ground, you can build on the walls. I have them about 0.5 m high. However, the compost heap has long overcome this mark. But I haven't built anything yet.

If the compost pit / heap is supported by walls, then comfortable conditions will be created inside the pit for the work of anaerobic organisms that live only in the absence of atmospheric oxygen

Disadvantages of a compost pit/heap

There is a compost pit on my site, which has already turned into a heap. However, it is bulky, looks untidy (fortunately, it is located behind the barn and hidden from view). And most importantly - I can not shovel it.

In a compost pit for 1 year it will not be possible to obtain high-quality compost. It will take at least 3 years. But earthworms in it are apparently invisible. Worms are free there, they grow long and fat. It is in the compost pit that the husband digs for worms when he goes fishing. And carp on such a worm are excellent.

(pelvis diameter - 40 cm)

An interesting fact: One earthworm is able to process as much soil per day as it weighs itself.

Compost bin or barrel

In the garden, I also placed a box and two compost bins. It's comfortable. While plant residues for compost are collected in one container, in another container the compost matures under the lid, and the finished compost is removed from the third container for gardening needs.

I adapted a leaky metal barrel and a cracked plastic one for compost. I additionally punched holes in the bottom of the plastic.

The height of the barrels is no more than 70 cm, so that with my short stature it would be convenient for me to put plant residues in them and pour out the slop.

My compost bin is made from boards. But you can make it from cement-bonded particle boards 20 mm thick or metal mesh.

Benefits of barrels or boxes

Can be placed anywhere in the garden/garden. Thanks to its compactness, it won't take up much space. Looks

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How to make a compost pit from a barrel in the country in the garden with your own hands

Calculation of the compost pit. Requirements and norms

The requirements for this design are the same as for a compost pit from concrete rings. Before you make a compost pit in the garden, be sure to consider the location of the tank from the house, fence, neighbors and drinking sources. For example, the distance from the well should be 20 m, from the house - at least 12 m, from the fence - 2-3 m. It is especially worth controlling the distance to wells, rivers, lakes, drinking springs, rainwater flows, since compost affects water, it spoils the taste of water and can introduce infection, which will harm the health of people and animals. The tank should also be located away from fruit trees because they will die. Be sure to consider the level ground water so that they do not undermine the structure.

Also pay attention to the direction of the wind, it affects the spread of unpleasant odors around the site. Therefore, it is better to place the barrel somewhere near the fence, where it will not interfere with people. We recommend that you place it in the shade so that direct sunlight does not fall, as they contribute to the drying of humus, drying it out.

Humus needs to be watered and stirred frequently. This will help it rot faster.

As for the dimensions, it should be a standard barrel. In principle, tanks of any parameters are suitable. But you must take into account that the more compost you want to get, the larger the installation should be.

Also have certain rules what can and cannot be put into the tank. You can: the remains of tea, coffee, fruits, vegetables, paper, newspapers, toilet paper, cardboard, magazines, weeds, plants, fruits, berries, hay, grass, straw, leaves, roots and branches of trees, ash, wooden planks. Not allowed: inorganic substances, plastic, metal, rubber, infected plants and leaves, bones and animal excrement.

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Compost heap for the lazy

It is well known that humus determines soil fertility. It is formed as a result of decay of organic residues. Over time, the humus reserves in the soil are depleted, which has a deplorable effect on the plants in our garden.

How to make up for the loss of organic matter in the soil? I exclude manure in advance, since it has become an expensive and scarce commodity, what remains is a compost heap.

I will try to put together the basic rules for making compost, although for sure avid gardeners will be able to add their own secret of how to fertilize the soil. So, let's begin:

It is better to place a compost heap in a shaded place, in the corner of the site, in the shade of trees or a barn. In a sunny place, the pile dries quickly.
Pile dimensions must be at least 1.5 m in height and width. If it is too high or wide, the bacteria living inside die from lack of oxygen and putrefactive microorganisms begin to develop, an unpleasant odor appears. In this case, you need to shovel the contents of the compost heap.
It is best to arrange a compost heap in the fall - there is more plant precipitation, but you need to have time to do this before frost.
At the place chosen for the compost heap, the top layer of soil is removed. The foundation can be a layer of clay or loamy soil (10 cm) for sandy soil and a layer of sand for clay soil. From above it is worth pouring a layer of weathered lowland or high peat (20 cm). Such a cushion should prevent leakage of the nutrient solution and at the same time provide access for earthworms.
All organic waste can be placed in a compost heap: grass clippings, leaves, leaves, rotten fruit, weeds (without seeds), potato peelings, sawdust, cut cardboard, shredded paper and small cuttings of branches.
Should not fall into a pile: trimmings of wheatgrass roots, goutweed, field bindweed, dandelion, horseradish, as well as glass fragments, rags, tin cans.
Everything that is brought into the compost heap must be crushed, otherwise the process will be delayed. The material must be laid in layers, and covered with straw or leaves on top.
The composting process requires heat, humidity and air flow. The first two components require compliance with the measure, and the third, the more the better. To avoid problems with air, lay the layers in a certain order: the largest materials are at the bottom, the higher, the finer.
If there is manure, you can water each layer of material with it. Suitable for this purpose and humus. It is useful to use commercially available compost accelerators.
If your compost heap is divided into three parts, then: in the first you need to put raw materials, in the second the compost will ripen, in the third it will be stored. Most importantly, raw materials and finished compost must be stored in separate containers.
In summer, in hot weather, the compost heap must be systematically moistened, and in damp weather, it must be covered from rain. In late autumn, the compost is mixed for the first time with a pitchfork or transferred to the next compartment of the compost bin. This is done so that the decomposition processes in the entire heap occur evenly.
Before frost, a layer of high-moor peat is poured into the box on top of the compost and covered with spruce branches or leaves.
Compost matures for a very long time. The term for composting slowly decomposing residues is one to two years. To get it faster, you need to use special preparations. If compost is needed urgently, for example, after 2-3 months, then bird droppings will be needed: layers of material crushed as finely as possible alternate with droppings, you can also add manure. The thickness of each layer in this case should not exceed 25-30 cm. Such a pile must be watered.
If the compost is prepared correctly, it has the normal smell of earth, rotten leaves, but not rot. Before entering into the soil, it is useful to sift it: large pieces will go to re-processing, and small ones - to the ground.
Ready compost is a relatively homogeneous, usually dark-colored, crumbly mass. It can be applied at any time of the year in all soils and under all crops.

On the summer cottages the compost heap is a must. After all, compost is a unique organic fertilizer that enriches the soil with humus. Compost can partially or completely replace manure, which has now risen in price, as well as mineral fertilizers and brought specially fertile soil. In addition, by collecting organic debris throughout the site, we simply clean up the area around.

Of course, you should place a compost heap or waste composting boxes in secluded places so that they do not catch the eye and do not spoil the view. Nevertheless, they should always be at hand. In the case of a classic composting solution, three sections are needed for the production of compost: in one, the process of laying waste is in progress, in the other, the compost matures, and in the third, the finished fertilizer is ready for removal to the beds.

In terms of size, many converge to the following proportions: width -1.5 m, height - 1-1.2 m, length - up to 3-4 m. These dimensions are given in many reference books, they are considered the minimum necessary to ensure temperature and stable humidity for the normal course of the composting process. According to the same theory, it is advised to shovel the contents of the compost heap annually to supply air to the ripening compost, i.e. to speed up the process of waste decomposition. This task requires serious physical effort.

How to speed up the composting process?

But progress does not stand still, composting technologies are being improved and the compost production process has been accelerated by 2-3 times. For example, to preserve moisture and to increase the temperature in the compost heap, they began to cover it with plastic wrap with holes for air access. Also, to speed up composting, various accelerators of this process have been developed, for example, the drug “Tamir”. To speed up the process, you can also choose a certain composition of organic and other components of the compost heap being laid so that composting will be significantly accelerated. This suggests that today it is not necessary to follow the rigid recommendations developed in the last century.

Composting in an iron barrel

1 - holes in the barrel wall; 2 - green mass; 3 - manure; 4 - ash; 5 - earth; 6 - polyethylene.

So a modern compost heap can be made compact or, for this purpose, waste can be folded into a small container with a capacity of about 1 cubic meter. meters, making it from boards.

But, as you know, laziness is the engine of progress, so it may not cost anything to build. Let's just take an old metal barrel without a bottom and modify it a bit:

Firstly, to ensure air access in the lower part of the barrel along its perimeter, we make 20-30 holes with a drill with a diameter of 8-10 mm, or you can punch them with a punch. We place the holes at a height of 20-30 cm from the base of the barrel. And no insulating gaskets are needed between the barrel and the ground - microorganisms and moisture must move freely in both directions.

Secondly, we paint the barrel from the outside in dark color for better heating in the sun, which will provide high temperature inside and speed up the composting process.

The process of making compost in a barrel is very convenient and simple. Several of these barrels can be placed around the site, placing them in places where waste accumulates most quickly. It can be a summer kitchen, garden beds, etc.

Layers for laying compost

To speed up the production of compost, the fertilizer components should be laid in a certain order, forming layers of a certain thickness:

First, we place green plants or carbon-rich substances, making a layer of them 15-20 cm thick.
Then we put 5 cm of manure or substances rich in nitrogen.
Next, pour lime, superphosphate or ash with a layer of 1-2 mm
After we break everything with a centimeter layer of earth.

So we fill the barrel to the top, continuing to lay the layers in the same sequence - weeds, manure, ash, earth.

We cover the filled barrel with a piece of plastic film with holes, which we tie with twine so that it is not blown away by the wind. From time to time water the prepared compost with water so that it does not dry out. You can water at the same time as watering the beds. But it is not necessary to overmoisten the compost mass. In terms of humidity, it should correspond to the squeezed sponge.

If there are ants in the barrel, then the compost heap has dried up and the composting process has been interrupted. To automatically maintain the desired humidity in the barrel, plant a zucchini, pumpkin or cucumber there. In this case, the film is no longer needed. Watering these plants will keep the compost heap moist. The complexity of the last method is only to immediately fill the barrel with all the layers of compost to the top.

In this design of the compost heap in the form of a barrel, there is a significant acceleration of the composting process. And you don't have to wait 3 years classic version. No need to shovel the compost. In one summer, you can get several hundred kg of excellent fertilizer.

handmade-garden.com

Compost pit, heap: DIY options

Fertilizers and herbicides

If there is no desire to use ready-made mineral fertilizers, you can prepare an environmentally friendly top dressing for vegetables and horticultural crops at home. This is the contents of the compost pit. But organic fertilizer is prepared in special containers and subject to certain conditions. It is important to remember about ventilation and the level of humidity in the contents of the pit. Waste should not be allowed to rot, but an optimal microclimate should be provided for their decomposition. Properly prepared fertilizer has a pleasant dark brown color, the smell of forest earth and a free-flowing structure.

What are compost pits for?

Compost is a fertilizer that is obtained by the decomposition of various organic substances under the influence of microorganisms. It is used to improve soil structure: clay soil it makes crumbly, gritty able to retain moisture.

Cultivated plants are planted on the plots, which cannot do without top dressing. Without fertilizer, they lose their vitality, die as the soil is depleted. Therefore, plants are periodically fertilized. There is a huge amount of mineral fertilizers made on a different basis, but not all of them are safe for the human body. The best option - independent production compositions at home. And the contents of the compost pits are always at hand. It's a waste household.

Every year the site is put in order. Garbage is removed, old grass is mowed, branches of shrubs and trees are cut, excess fruits are thrown out, and the like. All of these items are sent to the compost pit.

Fertilizer can be ready in a year or two or in 3-4 months. If there is a desire to cook in a short time, then special biological additives containing live bacteria are added to the pit, and the contents are periodically mixed to obtain a uniform process. Preparations are mixed in the container, which accelerate the decomposition of products.

Compost is sprinkled on the beds for the winter, added to the holes when planting seedlings, cover the soil with mulch. Gardeners call compost "black gold".

Do-it-yourself design options for greenhouses made of timber

Arrangement requirements

The design of the compost pit should provide all the necessary conditions for the development and active life of bacteria that process plant waste. These conditions include the following factors:

1. The presence of free access to oxygen. This is necessary so that the household waste placed in the container does not rot, exuding a stench, but breaks down under the influence of earthworms and beneficial bacteria.
2. Compliance temperature regime.
3. Maintain high humidity.

Fertilizer will be of high quality if the above conditions are met. And for this you need to properly build a pit or a compost bin from finished materials.

The requirements for building a structure can be listed as follows:

1. The presence of holes on the container wall. They are necessary for free access of air. Therefore, the best option is to install the box on the surface of the earth.
2. The presence of a door on the structure. For convenience, when extracting the finished fertilizer, the front or side wall is made in the form of a door or assembled from removable boards and materials.
3. Optimum depth. It is no more than half a meter. The contents of such devices are often mixed, since there are no conditions listed in the first paragraph.

Do-it-yourself methods for making automatic watering in a greenhouse

Location selection

If the compost bin has an aesthetic appearance, it can be installed anywhere in the garden. But it should be borne in mind that it should not be under the scorching sun, so choose a site in partial shade under the trees. It can be decorated with flower beds.

It is best to choose a place where nothing is sown or planted, since there is barren land. The space vacated after the compost will then become suitable for use in subsequent years. Install a waste container behind outbuildings, as it will not be visible there and will not spoil appearance site.

Planting plants for the manufacture of hedges in the country with their own hands

Manufacturing options

There are several technologies for making a compost pit:

1. Pit. The easiest way, but it is more difficult to create waste ventilation in it.
2. A box of boards.
3. A container made of slate, corrugated board and other improvised means.

If it is difficult to choose a form of composting, then you need to pay attention to the pros and cons of each method. The pit is convenient because the plant material is in the ground, which does not spoil the appearance of the garden. But it is more difficult to mix the contents in the pit, and the fertilizer takes much longer to prepare than in a container.

They take out the soil, deepening by 70-80 centimeters or a meter. The length of the pit should be no more than three meters. Width about one and a half meters. They retreat from the walls of the pit by 15-20 centimeters in order to knock down a wooden box. In four corners, posts are dug in for nailing boards. But between the planks leave about 5 centimeters to provide air access. All layers of compost must be well ventilated to prevent rotting.

The bottom of the pit is covered with bark, branches, straw. Materials will play the role of drainage, diverting excess moisture. The thickness of the drainage layer is about 15-20 centimeters. Drainage will also contribute to ventilation from below. You can divide the prepared pit into two halves. First fill one, then the other.

Ground container manufacturing

Pit drawing

First you need to prepare the tools. You will need:

saw;
Bulgarian;
roulette;
objects for the manufacture of concrete;
marking pencil;
door handles;
drill;
screwdriver;
self-tapping screws;
loops;
paint with antifungal impregnation, it is used to treat the walls of the box.

Before you build a container, you need to consider that it will serve for many years. Therefore, the floor should be concreted, as wood and plastic quickly become unusable.

Whatever material is chosen for the manufacture of the walls, it should be remembered that ventilation of the ejection products is necessary, therefore, a distance is left between the boards. Holes can be drilled on other surfaces. If you leave a larger distance on the wall, this will allow earthworms to easily get into processed products. One side of the box is removable.

Old slate is perfect for making a box. Dividing two sheets in half, get 4 sheets for the walls. They are arranged vertically and fixed with boards around the perimeter. The lid is made from boards, also leaving gaps between them. Slots are needed so that raindrops get inside and moisten the compost. In a dry summer, you will have to water the pit yourself with water from a barrel.

Required moisture is the key to obtaining high-quality compost. In order not to disturb the exchange of air, the composition is mixed with improvised means. Covered with polyethylene, get a greenhouse effect.

Make a concrete compost pit. To do this, remove a layer of earth. They dig a rectangular shape about 70-80 centimeters deep and no more than 1-1.5 meters wide. They build a box of boards, fill it with a mixture of crushed stone, cement and sand.

The pit is covered with a metal mesh cover or a wooden one. The cover must be freely removed at any time.

The recommended dimensions of the pit are as follows: length about 2 meters, width 1-1.5 meters, depth 0.5 meters. Do not make deep ones, as this will complicate the process of extracting humus. The ingress of earthworms is mandatory, so containers cannot be completely walled up. (Approximate dimensions are shown in the drawing.)

What is fertilizer made from?

As compost raw materials, waste from the kitchen, site or household (if any) is used. You can put in the pit everything that people and livestock eat. Coffee cake, used tea, unusable vegetables and fruits, hay, grass clippings, straw, dry leaves, bird droppings and cattle manure, plant roots, tree bark and bush branches, chopped paper, ash, sawdust and other waste.

Do not throw poisonous substances, glass, metal waste. You can compost products that do not harm the human body. If you do not use biological products to decompose the contents of the pit, then the process will drag on for a year or even 2.

From above, the entire pile should be covered with a 50-centimeter layer of leaves or grass, you can lightly sprinkle with earth. You can arrange waste in layers. But each layer should be moistened. They should be alternated with humus or manure. Sprinkle the layers with mineral fertilizer. This will speed up the decomposition process. If it is difficult to mix the pit, then you can transfer the contents to another compartment, since it remains free specifically for this. The readiness of the compost is determined by the dark brown color, by the loose structure, the fertilizer should smell like forest soil.

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Metal barrel for compost - the solution of a real summer resident

14.10.2014

A cottage is never complete without compost. It is necessary for subsequent seasons, it is an excellent plant nutrition and the best way out for household non-chemical waste, they say this: “Do not burn the grass, send it to compost, the earth will spoil more!” or “Rotten? Oh, don't worry, throw it in the compost!

Any compost will do. metal barrel, which you will find on your site or purchase at a hardware or garden store.

Storing compost in such a container is very simple, practical and is the surest solution for a summer resident, especially for a beginner. It should be noted that the process of humus, the formation of compost as a future top dressing for the earth, in a metal barrel occurs much faster than when compost is made in a pit or enclosing wooden beams.

Preparing a barrel for storing compost is very simple and uncomplicated. It is necessary to remove the bottom, for example, with a chisel and then beat the bent edges with a hammer. This will be the lower part, the barrel must be placed, thus, in the place that will be reserved just for your compost. It is ideal to use at least 3-4 such compost containers, because 1-2 barrels are always with compost not yet ready.

It is better to choose a place for a compost barrel that will be on the north side, and thus will not obscure your plants. Before each “replenishment” of the barrel with new waste or grass, it would be desirable to sprinkle the compost already there with ash. Also try to crush it to strengthen and speed up the process of decay.

In the spring, before the start of the new season, it is necessary to overturn the compost barrel and mix the resulting mass with the soil in the beds. The earth will absorb all the necessary elements just before planting your seedlings of crops, giving them the strength to grow actively in the future.

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DIY compost pit

Organic fertilizers are important in agriculture. They are necessary at certain stages of plant development. And compost is far from the last place among environmentally friendly fertilizers. To prepare it, you need a compost pit in the country. This process is not overly complicated. Our article will tell you how to make a compost pit with your own hands in the country.

What will be needed to prepare the pit?

Your minimum set garden tools will be quite enough. It seems that every gardener has a bayonet shovel, a wood saw and a covering material such as a film in his arsenal.

The dimensions of the pit are usually within 1x2 meters and up to one and a half meters high. Accordingly, 4 boards 150 mm wide and 40 mm thick will be enough for you. You will also need nails 100 mm long.

You can make a compost pit from barrels or lay out from bricks. IN last resort, pieces of slate or rubber mats are also suitable for strengthening - in general, any material at hand.

Where to place a compost pit?

It is advisable to place the pit in a secluded shady place, not leeward, so that the smells of decay do not spoil the rest and work in the country. It should not be placed near fruit and berry plantations, since pears and apple trees may die from such a neighborhood.

Technology for arranging a compost pit

There are several ways to arrange a compost pit with your own hands. The simplest and most rational method is to dig it in the ground. So, let's start creating a compost pit with our own hands:

Other types of compost pits that rise above the ground: wooden from boards, stone, from any unnecessary barrel or small logs.

womanadvice.ru

Do-it-yourself compost pit (photo, video, diagram)

(Last Updated On: 01/08/2018)

Compost pit (photo)

Compost is one of the most common fertilizers for horticultural plantings - it has a rich mineral composition, is easy to use and also practically free, because weeds and grass clippings, food waste and other organic materials can be used to form compost. For education and further storage, only a compost pit is needed - it is absolutely easy to build it with your own hands, and if you do it in accordance with all the rules, then it will neither interfere with rest with its aromas, nor require maintenance, nor cause other troubles and inconveniences. There are other options for storing compost, for example, a container or a box, but the pit is much simpler and its lifespan is an order of magnitude longer. After all, metal containers will rust and rot, wooden boxes quickly lose their strength under the influence of moisture, and the walls of the pit are only threatened by shedding of the walls. However, if you properly strengthen them, then this problem will not cause trouble.

Before you make a compost pit in the country, you need to understand the features of its bookmark.

The long history of using compost has come up with a number of tips to make this simple storage the most convenient. Some of these tips include:

you need to correctly calculate the volume of the pit being constructed - the compost matures quite slowly, so you need to calculate the volume based on the amount of garbage and plant waste that is generated on the site in about 2 years - it will take a year to accumulate the first batch, and another year will be required for full composting;
the pit should not be made too deep - otherwise it will be quite difficult to get the compost from the bottom and mix the fertilizer being prepared;
it is possible to provide a compost pit with a lid, although this is rather an optional solution;
a 2-section pit is more convenient to use, it allows you to separate ready-made compost and one that still needs time;
the pit must be protected from weeds or its seeds - on fertile compost soil they will grow very quickly and give seeds, which will then spread with compost throughout the site;
do not tightly close the walls or floor of the pit - they should easily fall into the compost earthworms;
if there are clearly not enough worms in the compost, then you need to additionally put worms in the pit: they found a worm on the site - they threw it into the compost;
if something closes the floor, it is better with concrete - iron and slate are not suitable for this case;
so that the pit does not spoil the air and the landscape on the site, it must be placed in the far corner behind the house;
if water is extracted from a well or block, then you need to place the compost pit as far as possible from them - the decay products formed in the compost can get into the water;
do not place the pit in a sunny place - the sun will dry the compost, preventing it from rotting;
to make the pit convenient to use, you need to organize a convenient approach to it.

Compost pit options

A do-it-yourself compost pit can be made in a thousand ways, you just need to properly position it and choose for it correct dimensions.

The minimum that the dimensions of the pit must correspond to is 150 x 300 cm around the perimeter and 100 cm deep.

The simplest compost pit is built according to the following scheme:

a hole of established dimensions is dug;
its bottom is covered with dry organic debris - hay, straw;
waste is poured from which compost will be formed;
from above, the covered material is covered with another layer of dry grass - it will not allow flies to breed;
each subsequent layer is also covered with a dry layer;
to protect the walls from collapses, you can strengthen them with pallets.

You can build such a compost storage somewhere in the backyard of the site, while retreating a sufficient distance from the fence - the walls of a simple pit are not strengthened by anything, so they can crumble. And because of this, the fence can collapse.

Compost pit (diagram):

Another option is a capital concrete compost pit - it will last for decades without crumbling and without requiring repair. The construction of such a pit is recommended only if the volume of organic waste is large and constant, and there are sufficient options for using compost.

It is recommended to build such a pit initially in the form of 2 compartments of equal volume - as already mentioned, 2-compartment pits are more convenient to use, and subsequently it will be problematic to separate the main pit. You also need to provide a pit cover.

Problem concrete pit that earthworms will not get into it, and they are an important condition for the formation of high-quality compost.

Therefore, it will be necessary to arrange a “great migration of peoples” for garden worms - to collect those that come to hand and put them in a compost pit. Also, compost requires a constant supply of fresh air, for which holes can be provided in the walls protruding to the surface.

By the way, concrete walls such a compost pit can be decorated in every possible way so that it does not resemble a burial ground. Firstly, you need to correctly calculate the height of the walls above ground level, secondly, you need to carefully pour concrete, thirdly, the surface of the walls can be finished decorative elements, paint and decorate by any other means.

You can also build a compost pit from a barrel - if there is an extra metal barrel, then it can simply be dug into the ground and filled with waste.

However, due to the fact that the volume of the barrel is limited, it will be necessary to turn the compost regularly so that it does not cake under the mass of waste piled on top and spread evenly. In addition, again, you will have to add earthworms to the barrel.

Thus, a do-it-yourself compost pit in the country is both difficult and easy. If you approach the matter carelessly and thoughtlessly, then your pit will certainly fill up, and if you prepare and show responsibility in your work, then everything will come out easily and correctly the first time.

In order to make a compost barrel with your own hands, you needed:

two plastic barrels of 200 liters, metal pipe(of such a diameter that it does not bend under the weight of the barrels), PVC pipe, 4 door curtains, 2 latches, M12 bolts and nuts, wooden beams 6x6 cm, and slats 6x4 cm.

Installation of a "compost barrel"

In the barrel in the middle of the side with an electric jigsaw, I cut out a 36 × 28 cm window for loading raw materials. From the inside, I screwed a strip of metal to one of the long sides (photo 1) - this is a stopper so that the door does not fall into the container.

I fixed the cut-out piece on the curtains (opposite the metal strip), attached a handle to it (photo 2). I added two latches that hold the lid closed. Over the entire surface of the container with a drill, I drilled chains of holes d 12 mm at a distance of 10 cm from each other. Approximately half of holes made inserted bolts M 12 10 cm long (photo Z) (longer possible) and secured them with nuts so that the ends stick out into the container. In the same way prepared the second barrel.

A piece of PVC pipe should be put on the metal pipe so as not to damage the edges of the barrels during rotation.

At the ends of the containers, I drilled holes in the center and inserted a pipe, which I fixed horizontally on a wooden T-shaped base 110 cm high from beams and slats in advance drilled holes suitable diameter.

Loading compost into a homemade barrel

For compost I use chicken manure, straw and some soil (you can use dry leaves, grass mowed in the area, chopped eggshell, food waste) - I load them into barrels and moisten them with water.

I rotate the drums every three days - the pins loosen remarkably and mix the biomass, which gradually decomposes under the influence of heat and moisture. With the usual method of composting in boxes knocked down from the boards, "ripening" takes from 6 to 9 months, and in my device it takes 1-1.5 months.

DIY compost bin - photo

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Adding compost to vegetable beds- perhaps the most rational, safe, and also environmentally friendly method of increasing soil fertility. It minimizes the use of mineral fertilizers and contributes to a tremendous increase in the diversity of microorganisms in the soil, which in turn process organic matter and make it available to plants.

However, organic waste composting is not the same. simple task as it might seem at first. If you delve into the study process, it turns out that this is not just a “method”, but a whole science of how to turn organic matter into a nutrient substance that will turn out to be much more easily digestible for plants, mineral fertilizers did not live, the fashion for which seems to be slowly, but comes to an end right.

So, for example, organic waste must be interbedded with earth. Also, the compost must be shaken at least a couple of times during the entire composting period, shifting from place to place. This is done so that the mass is saturated with oxygen, and aerobic microorganisms receive an impetus to development in it, instead of anaerobic ones - for example, putrefactive bacteria.

The interbedding of the compost with earth and its shaking is not only time-consuming, but also relatively labor-intensive. In order to simplify the task, we decided to build a compost barrel that would be equipped with swivel mechanism and could do the work for us.

To make such a summer "helper" you will need:

1. Materials:

Barrel (we took plastic);
- plywood 6 mm;
- a wooden block with a section of 50 by 100 mm .;
- furniture rollers, which are usually used in the manufacture of furniture - 4 pcs.;
- nails;
- self-tapping screws.

2.Tools:

Electric jigsaw;
- wood saw;
- screwdriver;
- electric drill;
- screwdriver;
- hammer;
- a marker or pencil.

Step 1: making the lid

We chose plywood, 6 mm thick, as the material for the barrel lid.

Set the barrel on a sheet of plywood with the neck towards the surface and outline its outline. Cut out the resulting circle using a jigsaw.

Saw small squares from the bar. We need four in total. With a pencil, “write” an imaginary square into the circle and fix one square in each of its corners using nails or self-tapping screws (see photo below). To prevent the parts from splitting, pre-drill the holes for the fasteners with an electric drill.

In addition, drill a couple of dozen holes in the lid itself. This will provide the necessary aeration of the mass and prevent the development of unwanted bacteria and organisms in it.

Step 2: making the frame

The manufacture of the frame will not take much time, since its design is extremely simple and is a rectangle of timber with braces installed at the corners, providing it with rigidity.

The length of the frame is arbitrary, however, it should be slightly larger than the length of the barrel installed on it. While the width is 1/4 smaller sizes barrels. Considering these remarks, carry out the necessary calculations.

We took a bar with a section of 50 x 100 mm., But, in fact, you can choose any other dimensions that will provide the structure with the “load capacity” required from it.

We made the braces from scraps of plywood. According to the test results, it is clear that it is quite suitable for these purposes.

Step 3: Installing the rollers

During operation, the barrel will rotate thanks to the rollers. Our frame is ready, so proceed to install the rollers.

Each pair should be fixed on the long side of the frame as shown in the photo - slightly stepping back from the edge. Use self-tapping screws for fastening. This will greatly simplify the process of replacing the rollers, adjusting their location or adjustment.

If you are afraid for the safety of the barrel, choose rubber-coated rollers - they will not scratch the walls of the container.

Please note that the closer the rollers are to the neck and bottom of the barrel, the more stable the whole structure will be.

Step 4: install the stop

The emphasis in this design is designed to ensure that the barrel does not slip to the side during rotation. It is fixed on the frame and is a regular piece of board. Subsequently, it will hold the barrel in an axial position.

Step 5: Installing the Lid Lock

As you can see in the photo, the "fixer" is a set of rubber bands with hooks, which are usually used when transporting goods. You can find these in any market. Their length should not only ensure a snug fit of the lid, but also not prevent the removal of the harnesses. For convenience and reliability of the connection, it is necessary to drill several holes for hooks around the circumference of the neck of the barrel.

For lack of space for a stationary composter, you can equip it in an ordinary plastic or metal barrel. It is better to use plastic, and for ease of mixing, hang it in a horizontal position and attach a handle for rotation. The compost in the barrel will mature evenly and it will take less effort to shovel the contents.

Old metal containers quickly rot under the influence of moisture, and plastic is neutral.

In addition, you can buy a barrel of any size, depending on how much waste accumulates on the site. If only leaves and grass then a volume of 120 - 150 liters will be enough. If there is vegetable and fruit waste, tops, weeds, manure, then you need to take 200 - 300 liters.

Benefits of using a plastic composting barrel

If a wooden compost box is equipped on the site, then sooner or later the bottom will rot under the influence of the same bacteria. If there is no bottom, then the nutrients will go into the soil under the box irrevocably. It is much more economical if the composter has a bottom and is resistant to microorganisms.

Do-it-yourself composter from a barrel can be made aerobic and anaerobic. In the first case, it is necessary to organize regular air access to plant residues. This compost matures faster. If you use accelerators - bacterial preparations, then you can get fertilizer in 1 - 1.5 months.

Video: Compost barrels

For anaerobic fertilization, the compost barrel must be airtight. It is tightly closed or dug into the ground. The leftovers take longer to rot, but the fertilizer is more concentrated, as all the nutrients remain inside. Such compost is not used for seedlings in its pure form, but is always mixed with soil.

It is easier to make a compost pit out of a barrel than to make a storage facility out of concrete, although concrete is also very good material for a stationary composter. To immerse the barrel in the ground, it is enough to dig a hole corresponding to the size of the container.

Can wrap walls and bottom mineral wool or other heat-retaining material. In such a pit, it will be possible to make fertilizer even in winter. Luke will serve plastic cover which is sold as a set.

How to make a barrel composter

There are many ways to prepare compost in a dacha in a barrel. The easiest is to leave it in the garden without digging into the ground.

To make a horizontal compost bin, you need some tools and Additional materials- wood or metal pipes. The first step is to weld or knock down the frame that will hold the barrel filled with compost raw materials.

It can be something like a bed with welded support pipes or wooden blocks. A barrel will be attached to them, in the center of which a metal pipe passes. In order not to damage the plastic, it is put on metal PVC pipe- It is smooth and durable.

How to prepare a barrel:

Make a hole in which the raw material will be laid. To do this, cut a rectangular piece in the wall. With the help of metal canopies on one side, a piece of plastic becomes a door. On the other hand, it is necessary to provide a latch so that the ingredients do not fall out during scrolling.

On both sides - in the bottom and in the lid, holes are made to pass the pipe through.

The lid closes tightly and the barrel is put on the pipe, strengthening it on the frame. You can make a handle for convenience, but many do without it.

Summer residents attach wheels to the base of the frame and transport the composter for the winter to a warm place - a barn or pantry.

Preparation and laying of raw materials

Before you make compost in a barrel, you need to prepare the raw materials. It should be a mixture of nitrogen and carbon containing components. At the same time, nitrogen is laid 4 times less. Nitrogen-containing include all green components and manure. To carbon - straw, cardboard, dry leaves, sawdust, bark, cut branches of trees and shrubs.

Each ingredient needs to be sprinkled five centimeter soil layer, so that soil bacteria get into the compost and begin to multiply. If you use biodestructors, then it is not necessary to add soil. Bacterial preparations can be purchased at the store or prepared with your own hands from fermented milk products and yeast.

After laying compost withstand 5 - 6 days with the lid open and then inverted. When shoveling on the bed, the lid is closed, then opened again to allow access to oxygen. In the future, the compost is turned every 3 to 4 days. This speeds up its maturation.

To get the finished fertilizer, a bucket, wheelbarrow or other container is placed under the lid and the required amount is poured out.

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A leaky metal barrel is a great mobile place to make compost.
Usually compost is prepared in special containers, boxes or piles. Preparation time from two - three months up to two years, depending on the volume of the content and the number of transshipments.

To create our unique place and method of composting, we need a large diameter pipe. With a hammer and a chisel (instead of a chisel, an ax is better), we cut down both bottoms in a leaky barrel. Here is the finished pipe.

For good country houses or out-of-towners always need to buy new furniture. Furniture for a summer residence is bought in the same place where kitchen tables are sold. After all kitchen table- a very important element of the interior country house. Choosing high-quality furniture for the kitchen, you take care of your wife, who can easily cook you a lot of tasty and healthy meals.

With the help of a grinder (angle grinder), we make two cuts into two unequal parts, put them “on the priest” and connect them with a strong synthetic rope, but the wire is more reliable. It turned out a new easily detachable pipe. This is a compost container. It is necessary to make several holes - "pockets" for air access.

They put there: cut knots, mowed weeds and grass, turf, collected leaves, sawdust, paper waste, rags and so on. The composting process goes faster if the container is covered with a lid, and to increase the temperature inside, it is necessary to paint it dark. And also periodically water the contents with a solution of ammonium nitrate ( Matchbox on a bucket of water) and use organic waste: leftovers from the dinner table, fish waste during processing, and so on, but this is provided that your unique container is tightly closed.

The advantages over a compost pit are obvious:

maneuverability of the object, it is enough to put it near the cultivated area and it is not necessary to carry the selected roots, soddy soil to the place of the compost heap;

ease of manufacture, when marking and cutting, complex engineering solutions are not required;

availability source material(for worms and bacteria from below) and for a gardener-gardener - just untie the rope (wire) and in front of you are 20 buckets (a barrel of 200 liters) of the most beautiful and beloved compost by plants. And if there are two or more barrels ...