How to build a beautiful terrace with your own hands. How to make a wooden terrace with your own hands

This is an extension to the house that allows you to admire nature, while at the same time being in the comfort of home. It can be made of brick or wood, and we offer you the most elegant and least time-consuming option - a veranda made of.

Location

First of all, it is necessary to develop a construction project, and for this you need to clearly understand why you need it, what kind of veranda you want, what kind of view you will observe from it. The veranda can be used as a hall, dining room, children's playroom, make it a winter garden, a living room.

on the corner;
from the end;
from the front of the house.

It is most convenient to choose for the construction of the veranda the place where there is an entrance door to the house, so you can get into the veranda directly from the house. However, if your flight of fancy is not limited to such stereotypes, if you wish and have tools, you can make an additional doorway. Anyway, the entrance to the veranda can only be from the street, but then it will be more like a gazebo. Another option is that it will be possible to get to the veranda only from the house, the entrance from the street is not provided.

If making another doorway is not a problem for you, keep in mind that a good place for the veranda will be from the western or eastern wall of the house, then it will be well lit and at the same time will be protected from summer heat. Some even build a wraparound veranda around the perimeter of the entire house.

Important! Do not place the entrance to the veranda opposite the entrance to the house-because of this, there will always be a draft on the veranda.

Next, you need to decide on the size. Verandas look good along the entire length of the wall of the house, but you can build smaller ones. But it’s not worth building verandas protruding beyond the length of the wall of the house - they look too heavy.

The most common shape for such an extension is rectangular, but it can also be in the form of a polygon or circle.
The veranda can be open (without walls) and closed. If you put sliding panels, then the closed building will easily turn into an open one if necessary.

Project drawings must be submitted for approval to the relevant authorities, and the construction of the veranda (even with your own hands) must be legalized, otherwise problems may arise in the process of selling the house or transferring it in some other way.

List of materials and tools

To build a veranda, you will need the following tools:

bucket;
concrete mixer or tub;
hammer;
hacksaw;
level and water level;
cord to align the posts;
screwdriver;
drill;
drill of the appropriate diameter;
perforator;
electric saw;
electric planer;
jigsaw;
roulette;
pencil;
square.

You will also need the following materials:

concrete (cement, sand, crushed stone or gravel);
brick, metal posts or bars;
boards and nails for formwork;
water;
waterproofing on the foundation;
bars 100x100 mm;
floor board 30x100 mm;
aluminum or polycarbonate profile;
self-tapping screws and special self-tapping screws for polycarbonate;
nails 100 mm, nails with a small head;
staples;
metal corners;
anchor bolts;
dowel;
rails 30 mm;
wooden lining;
plinth;
vapor barrier;
aluminum adhesive tape;
insulation.

The veranda differs from the terrace by the presence

If you attach a do-it-yourself porch made of polycarbonate, then since this is a fairly light material, the foundation can be poured using the columnar method. However, the final choice of the method of pouring the foundation depends on the condition of the soil (frozen, swampy).

If you want a small extension, then the number of posts will be 4 pieces (1 in each corner). If you conceived a large veranda, the columns must be set every 50 cm.
Step-by-step instructions for pouring the foundation of the veranda with your own hands are as follows:

Dismantle the porch and the canopy above it.
Collect all trash.
Remove the top layer of earth (15 cm).
Mark the places for the columns.
Dig holes under the posts with a depth equal to the depth of the foundation of the house.
Pour 10 cm of sand at the bottom of the pit, and 10 cm of crushed stone or gravel on top of it.
From wooden planks build formwork of appropriate height.
Pour concrete to ground level or to the entire required height of the foundation.
If you chose asbestos, metal or wooden posts, then before pouring concrete, you need to insert these posts, covering them with solutions to protect metal or wood.
Allow the concrete to dry well, periodically watering it with water if the weather is hot outside.
Take out the formwork.
Fill the distance between the concrete and the ground with sand or fine gravel.
If you chose brick columns, then lay out the brick to the required height.
Align the height of all columns, taking into account that the floors in the house must be 30 cm higher than in the extension, otherwise its roof will not fit under the roof of the house (relevant for one-story mansions).

frame

We will consider the process of mounting the frame for the veranda with our own hands step by step:

Carry out waterproofing of the foundation with the help of roofing material or bitumen, spreading it over the entire foundation.
Insert into the anchor posts, having previously drilled a hole.
Mark the first outside corner of the veranda by driving in a nail.
Starting from the first nail, outline all 4 corners of the building, carefully measuring the right angle (90 °).
Run the lower strapping (first layer), laying out the prepared bars 100x100 mm and joining them at the corners using the “half-tree” method (when half the bar is cut at the ends of the two bars using an electric planer). If the bars are not connected at the corner, the bars can simply be joined to each other.
Between the bars it is better to lay a heater.
Fasten the connections with metal corners or staples.
Check with the help of a water level how evenly the strapping is done.
Check with a square to see if the corners are warped.
Fasten the strapping to the foundation with anchor bolts.
Again, check with a water level and square to see if the strapping is warped.
Cut holes for racks. The optimal distance is 50 cm, you need to consider the placement of windows and doors.
Install the racks by attaching them to the bottom trim with brackets. Racks must be cut strictly vertically, this is easy to check with a level.
Before installing the upper trim, so that the racks do not warp, install temporary spacers - they nail the rails between the racks.
In the bars for the upper trim, cut holes for the racks.
Using staples, attach the top trim to the uprights.
Remove spacers.

Since we will use polycarbonate as the material for the walls, it is permissible to install aluminum or polycarbonate profiles instead of wooden racks, then the veranda can be given a rounded shape.

Roof

The roof of the veranda can be:

lean-to if the extension is attached to the house with a wide part;
gable when the veranda is attached perpendicular to the house.

Polycarbonate coating allows you to make the extension lighter and visually more voluminous. This material is impact resistant very coldy and strong heat, it is light, it can be bent, drilled, cut, it does not let in sounds and heat. At your request, you can choose a colored or matte material, honeycomb (there will be a translucent roof) or monolithic (it looks no different from glass).

In order to cover the veranda, you must follow the following procedure:

Make markings with a level and drill holes for anchors in the timber and wall of the house.
Attach the beam to the wall with anchor bolts.
Make grooves for the rafters in the timber and in the upper harness.
Install the rafters in the “half-tree” way from the wall to the upper trim so that they protrude beyond the trim (otherwise the rain will flow right down the walls of the veranda). The distance between the centers of the rafters is maintained at 101 cm. The angle between the rafters and the wall, between the rafters and the top trim must be straight.
Attach the rafters with metal staples, corners, nails.
Make a frame using aluminum or polycarbonate profiles, screwing it to the rafters with self-tapping screws.
Attach polycarbonate sheets with screws or fixing profiles.

Important! In order for water to drain, the timber should be placed above the upper trim of the frame, making an angle of about 40° , but not less than 25° .

If the roof for the veranda is conceived in the form of an arch, instead of wooden beams aluminum or polycarbonate profiles can be used. Despite the fact that polycarbonate is a fairly convenient material for work, some nuances must be observed during its installation:

Do not shoot protective film until the end of installation, so as not to deform.
If an aluminum profile is used, then the edges of the polycarbonate must be sealed with a special aluminum adhesive tape.
Self-tapping screws must be specially designed to work with polycarbonate, they have a special gasket that does not allow the material to deform.
The grooves for self-tapping screws must be drilled a little wider, since polycarbonate can narrow or expand with temperature changes.
For the same reason, you can not screw the self-tapping screw too tightly.
Empty channels inside the polycarbonate should be parallel to the roof slope.
For cutting sheets, it is better to use an electric jigsaw.

Important! Don't rush or take too long when cutting polycarbonate sheets-from the high speed of the jigsaw, they can melt, and from too low-burst.

Floors and walls

Floors are best made of wood, using special boards 30x100 mm. The laying of the floor occurs in this order:

Soak the boards indoors for a day.
Make markings using a water level and drill holes for anchors in the timber and wall of the house.
Attach the beam to the wall of the house with anchors.
Check with a water level that there are no distortions between the timber and the lower trim.
Set the logs (base bars under the floor) perpendicular to how you will lay the floor boards, maintaining a distance of up to 1 m.
Check the correct installation using a water level.
Attach the logs using staples, corners, nails.
Check the water level for distortion.
Lay out the insulating layer.
Install the floorboard, attaching it with self-tapping screws 2 times the width of the board.
If necessary, the boards must be sanded.
Treat the boards with special solutions.
Cover with varnish or paint.

Did you know? To make the floor warmer, you can attach a subfloor before installing the lags, drill the lags to subfloor, and lay insulation between the lags. A finishing floor is laid on top of the insulation.

You can also make a concrete floor and install tiles on it.

To build polycarbonate walls on the veranda with your own hands, follow this sequence:

If desired, an aluminum or polycarbonate profile can be attached to the wooden racks.
Prepare polycarbonate sheets, if necessary, cut with a jigsaw.
Glue the edges of the sheets with a special aluminum tape.
Starting from the left edge, attach the polycarbonate sheets to the posts with special screws so that the empty channels inside the sheet are perpendicular to the floor.
Attach a special profile at the junction of the sheets.

If you plan to combine an open and closed veranda, then you can install sliding walls on special rails for wardrobes.

Interior decoration of the veranda

To maintain harmony in the decoration, in combination with a wooden floor, it is better to decorate the wall of the house with wood. If the house is wooden, then additional finishing is not required, if not, you can use boards or wooden lining. The sequence of actions when laying the lining is as follows:

Keep the lining for 1 day indoors.
Drill holes for dowels.
Using dowels, vertically install slats 30 mm wide every 1 m.
Use a level to check for distortion.
Attach the vapor barrier (polyethylene film, foil, roofing felt) to the rails with screws.
Attach the horizontal rails to the vertical rails with self-tapping screws. The bottom rail should be 5 cm above the floor, and the top rail should be 5 cm below the top trim. At the same distance, it is necessary to place slats around windows and doors.
Check the installation with a water level.
Nail the first strip of lining with nails with a small hat to the rail. If you want to lay the lining perpendicular to the floor, then the first strip is nailed near the corner, if parallel, then at the top.
Use a spirit level to check the setting.
Next, nail the remaining strips, checking after each that there are no distortions.
Complete the installation by installing the plinth.

Important! You need to nail the lining in the place where it begins connecting strip, further from the edge, driving in nails at an oblique angle.

Windows and doors

If the walls of the veranda are built of wood or brick, then you can insert monolithic polycarbonate windows that will move apart. For this:

At the top of the window, attach with screws a guide along which the window will move. Doors in wardrobes move along such guides.
The guide can also be screwed at the bottom of the window, then the window fastening will be more rigid.
Cut the polycarbonate sheet to the required dimensions.
Attach special rollers to the sheet that will provide mobility.
Insert the structure into the guides.

Did you know? Glass windows are only 20% more transparent than polycarbonate windows, but polycarbonate is 20 times stronger than glass.

Installed in the same way sliding doors from polycarbonate. Using the same technology, you can make a fully sliding wall by screwing the guide to the top trim.

Depending on the type of guide, windows and doors can open in one direction, in both directions, or fold like an accordion.

Having built a polycarbonate veranda with your own hands, you will not only give a more noble look to your home, but you will also be able to enjoy the sunrise or sunset, drops of falling rain, landscapes, with a cup of coffee or tea in your hand, without suffering from unpleasant weather moments and saving on payment labor of workers.

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Terrace attached to the house - comfortable place, where it is pleasant to relax in the circle of close people and, oddly enough, its construction can be done quite easily with your own hands. To understand how to do this, you need to learn more about the main features of this extension.

Distinctive features of the terrace

Before designing an extension for personal plot, you should decide how the design will be framed - in the form of a terrace, veranda or gazebo. All of these types of buildings are similar to each other, but also have significant differences.

Compared with analogues, the terrace has several distinctive features:

located on common ground building or on a separate, but combined with the main one;
its main purpose is a summer vacation, since, basically, it is built in the form of a large open area;
not protected by walls, their role is played by railings;
can be installed near any wall of the house or even around the entire main building.

All types of extensions to the house have one purpose - this is a place for outdoor recreation in the circle of a large campaign. The choice of the optimal option will depend on the decision of the owner of the plot.

How to choose the best place to build a building?

Since the terrace is built for a pleasant pastime, the choice of its construction site should be approached thoroughly. It must match the following parameters:

well lit by the sun;
have a beautiful appearance;
in harmony with the main building and with the features of landscape design.

In addition, when choosing the location of the future structure, it is necessary to take into account the composition of the soil, since this will determine which material is better to use in the construction of the structure, and which form will be most suitable.

What material is used to build the terrace?

Most often, wood is used for the construction of an extension of this type. It is quite strong and reliable. In addition, a wooden terrace will create a comfortable and cozy atmosphere while spending time on it.

Some homeowners choose to build an extension out of brick, concrete, or stone. Although such materials are durable, they are also quite expensive, and it is also more difficult to work with them than with wood.

The foundation for the construction of a structure can be very diverse, but in order to make it easier to build a terrace on your own, use a ready-made curb stone as a base. Thus, part of the work is significantly reduced.
Therefore, the laying of the foundation of the structure will be considered the initial stage of construction. To do this, it is necessary to designate the perimeter of the future building with the help of wooden stakes, on which the twine is pulled. At the corners of the marking, temporary supports made of bricks about 0.4 m high are placed.
A twine is pulled over the lag, after which they can be removed, and instead of bricks, concrete supports can be placed. Between them, trenches are pulled out under the curb stone, it is installed and poured with cementing mortar. After the cement has completely hardened, the entire base area can be covered with expanded clay to provide thermal insulation.
Construction of the terrace platform
After laying the base-foundation, you can proceed to the construction of the terrace area. For this, wood is most often used.
Logs are laid and fastened to the foundation, onto which the bars are fixed with the help of fasteners in such a way that small gaps for ventilation are formed between them. Before laying, the boards must be carefully treated with an antiseptic solution in several layers.
After the flooring is laid, its edges should be trimmed and the surface painted or varnished.
Roof installation
The installation of a roof is not necessary for the construction of a terrace, it is considered an auxiliary element. For these purposes, you can use one of several roofing options:
wooden bars;
transparent slate;
polycarbonate;
awning.

As a rule, the roof on the terrace is not fixed. Many building owners usually use structures that can be quickly removed, such as large umbrellas.
Creating interior decor
Looks good even on outdoor terrace wooden fencing, which consists of racks, balusters and railings. Such elements are assembled together and attached to the roof supports or to individual beams.
The extension is decorated with various elements decor, such as fresh flowers, tulle fabric overlaps and others. Be sure to put furniture on the finished terrace for the convenient location of all guests, as well as sun loungers, if there is an opportunity to sunbathe.

A terrace is a platform attached to the house or standing separately. Usually it resembles a large porch adjacent to the wall at the entrance to the house. In the southern regions, terraces are usually open. V middle lane- covered with awnings or awnings. The terrace design can be initially included in the house construction plan and built on the same foundation. But, if the house already exists, it will not be difficult for anyone to attach a terrace to it. home master. Let's talk about what basic terrace structures exist and how to build them yourself.

Before proceeding with the construction of the terrace, it is necessary to carry out the design and decide which design option to give preference to.

Most simple designs terraces are carried out at ground level. These are platforms paved with paving slabs, paving stones or clinker. Paving is carried out on a gravel-sand cushion laid in a pre-arranged excavation in the ground, 20-30 cm high.

On a gravel bed, you can also build a wooden terrace with flooring from boards or composite decking. Wooden bars or steel profiles are laid on top of the backfill, which play the role of a lag. Wooden support beams are mounted on them. Floor boards are fixed from above.

More complex terrace designs, raised above the ground level. Moreover, they can be raised both by 15-20 cm and by 2-3 m (the level of the second floor). In this case, the foundation is indispensable. Such a terrace is based on reinforced concrete slabs, blocks or piles, which play the role of a monolithic, columnar or pile foundation. An example of a raised terrace: a platform in the form of a reinforced concrete slab, lined with ceramics or porcelain stoneware. During the construction of a wooden raised terrace, on the selected foundation (concrete posts, slabs, piles), wooden logs are fixed, which are sheathed on top with an edged or terraced board (decking).

We will provide you with several options for building a terrace, designed in the form of information master classes.

Option 1. Terrace paved with clinker

This version of the terrace is built on a sandy compacted cushion, at ground level. Clinker tiles, from which the flooring is laid out, allow you to form curved, curved lines of the site. To clearly define the boundaries of the terrace, fences are installed around its perimeter. For example, small wooden posts soaked in antiseptics.

Work is performed as follows:

1. Clear the soil at the site of the paved terrace. Remove stones, driftwood, remove the top layer of soil, 20 cm thick.

2. Sand is poured into the resulting recess, with a layer of 15 cm.

3. A trench with dimensions of 70x70 cm (depth, width) is dug along the intended border of the area. A layer of gravel or sand is poured at the bottom of the trench, 15-20 cm high. It is necessary for better water drainage at the installation site of the fencing posts.

4. In the trench, on the drainage layer, install two rows of wooden posts (along the inner and outside). Their verticality is controlled by the building level. The posts installed at the ends of the fence are fastened with self-tapping screws. This solution provides a stronger grip of structural elements, does not allow them to move and fall out of the row.

The fence looks like a closed "pocket", which will later be used as a flower bed framing the terrace. If the arrangement of the flower bed is not included in your plans, then the border can be made in one row by installing bricks, ready-made plastic fences, etc. in the trench.

5. To prevent soil from being washed out of future flower bed, a layer of roofing material is laid inside the enclosing "pocket", leading it to the walls of the columns. The roofing material is laid at the height of the planned level of backfilling with soil. At several points, the waterproofing layer is fixed on the walls of the columns with self-tapping screws or nails.

6. Pegs are driven into the ground, from the wall of the house to the fence, in increments of 3 m and cords are pulled on them with a slope of 2-3 cm per 1 running meter. Thus, the level of sand filling is outlined, which must necessarily form a slope for rainwater to drain from the terrace area.

7. sand backfill they tamp and level according to the level of the stretched cords, adding, if necessary, the missing amount of sand.

8. Begin the installation of clinker tiles. Each tile is laid on a sandy layer, pressed tightly and tapped on the surface with a rubber mallet.

9. The remaining free areas, between paving and fencing, are covered with large decorative gravel.

10. The seams between the tiles are filled with fine sand using a stiff brush.

11. Excess sand on the surface is washed off with a jet of water from under the hose. The pressure should be small so that the sand does not wash out of the seams.

12. In order for rain moisture to be able to drain freely from the paved area, drainage is performed. To do this, along the fence posts, a drainage pipe with slots is laid out with a slope, wrapped in a jute cloth (so that debris and soil do not get into the slots). For masking, the surface of the pipe is covered with gravel.

The end of the laid drainage pipe connected to a storm sewer pipe. Through the tee, a drainage outlet is also connected here. A gutter with a grate is installed in the right place.

Option #2. Wooden deck on gravel

A durable and simple terrace built on a gravel bed can be easily made from steel profiles (lag), wooden bars and boards. Since in this case they will practically lie at ground level, for this version of the terrace it is allowed to use only wood from hard, non-rotting species: larch, oak, garapa, teak, merbau, etc. Before use, the boards are treated with antiseptics that protect them from moisture, decay, insects, and UV rays.

Progress:

1. At the site of the future site, the top layer of soil is removed, 20-30 cm thick.

2. Fill the pit with gravel.

3. Steel profiles are laid on the gravel, forming a slope of 2-3 cm per 1 running meter. The distance between the profiles is about 500-600 mm.

4. Support beams are attached to the profiles. The distance between the beams is about 600 mm if the thickness of the terrace board is 27 mm. With a board thickness of 20 mm, the step of the beams will have to be reduced to 400 mm. For additional protection beams from moisture, in places of their contact with the profiles, rubber gaskets are laid, cut to the width of the boards.

5. Bearing beams are covered with a dark protective fabric (geotextile, for example) to prevent the germination of weeds.

6. Flooring is assembled perpendicular to the supporting beams from boards with gaps of 2-3 m. Spacers are installed between the boards and the protective fabric to prevent moisture from accumulating in the floor space. A compensation gap of 1-2 cm is left between the walls and the flooring.

7. At the end of the assembly, the boardwalk is covered with antiseptics, coloring impregnations or varnish.

Option #3. Terrace on a columnar foundation

A wooden terrace on a columnar foundation is the traditional and most win-win option. The design is adjacent to the house and, in fact, is one with it. The columnar foundation is able to raise the site by 15-60 cm. At the same time, the ventilated space formed under the flooring contributes to effective ventilation of the terrace elements and minimizes the possibility of wood decay.

Step by step construction instructions:

1. To connect the future terrace area with the house, the first beam is fixed horizontally (at the level of the terrace) on the wall adjacent to it. A galvanized steel drain is mounted above the upper edge of the beam.

2. Excavations are made at the installation sites of concrete columns. The columns should be installed in increments of 1.5-2 m. The recesses are made taking into account the desired elevation of the terrace, the height of the columns and the obligatory layer of gravel bedding, 10-15 cm thick.

3. Gravel filling is poured into the recesses, then trapezoidal concrete columns are installed. A metal embedded part for square beams is attached to the upper platform of each column.

4. The support beams are inserted into the embedded parts on the posts, fixed with screws.

5. On top of the support beams, perpendicular to them, platform beams are mounted at a distance of 40-60 cm from each other.

6. Terraced boards are screwed to the platform beams with screws, keeping 2-3 mm gaps between them. The gaps serve to prevent the accumulation of rainwater on the deck and its free flow into the underground.

7. If unprepared edged boards, after installation, the surface of the flooring may look uneven. Therefore, the floor is leveled with a grinder, bringing all points of the terrace to the same level. After grinding, wood dust is removed and the boards are treated with impregnation - antiseptic or coloring. When using a special terrace board, additional surface grinding is not required.

The columnar foundation for the terrace can also be built from flat concrete blocks. A similar version of the construction of the terrace is presented in the video:

Option #4. WPC terrace on a pile-screw foundation

Sometimes it is not rational to install a terrace on a columnar foundation. For example, at a high ground water, on wet and unstable soils. In this case, the soil will swell and push out the concrete columns. Difficulties in the device column foundation can also occur in areas with large level differences, on slopes. In all these cases, for light buildings, another type of foundation is more successful - pile-screw. Screw piles make it possible to raise the terrace platform to the desired height (even by 2-3 m!), perfectly hold the wooden flooring from all over. necessary furniture. In addition, the screw piles for the terrace are screwed in within 1 day.

Consider the technology of building a light WPC terrace on screw piles.

Progress:

1. Determine the installation points of piles. They are screwed in with a step of 2-3 m, with a mandatory installation in the corners of the future site.

2. Piles are screwed in using special equipment or manually. With manual screwing, a metal scrap is inserted into the slots on the upper end of the pile, which serves as a lever. In the process of scrolling this lever, the pile breaks the soil with its blades and lowers to the required depth (below the freezing level of the soil).

3. Screwed piles are cut to the level of the future supporting frame.

4. Inside each screwed pile is poured cement mortar to increase its strength and prevent corrosion of the internal cavity.

5. A steel metal frame made of shaped pipes is mounted on top of the piles. The frame has the form of a frame with intermediate elements located in 50-60 cm increments. The finished frame is coated with a primer, paying special attention to the welding points.

6. Aluminum logs are laid on the piles. Since when aluminum comes into contact with the steel of the frame, the corrosion process starts, it is recommended to lay logs only through rubber gaskets.

7. Fastening decking boards to aluminum logs is carried out using terminals that are inserted into the slot of the log. Terminals allow you to mount the boards without the use of self-tapping screws and the need to drill holes in them. If the aluminum profile used does not allow the installation of terminals, the fastening of the decking boards is performed traditionally - using self-tapping screws.

8. After assembling the composite flooring, an enclosing aluminum profile is mounted along the ends of the decking. Now a terrace made of composite decking is almost indistinguishable from an expensive wooden structure!

How the installation of the terrace on screw piles is carried out is shown in the video plot:

The veranda and gazebo are a stylish and functional decoration. suburban area.
But, if the gazebo is a separate structure, which can be used in summer time, then the veranda is a room attached to the house, having a roof, walls and intended for year-round use.

A warm veranda can serve as a corridor, hallway or lounge, greenhouse, winter garden, it can even accommodate a pool

What is the difference between a veranda and a terrace? These concepts are often confused, although they have a constructive and visual difference. The presence of a roof and walls is what distinguishes a veranda from a terrace and a porch.

The veranda is provided for even at the stage of building a house, but more often it is completed already during operation. Therefore, many are interested in how to attach a veranda to the house with their own hands. Below is a step-by-step (step-by-step) instruction for building a veranda for a private house.

1. Veranda project

Any construction begins with the development of the project.

Summarizing the experience of building verandas, it can be noted that they differ in the following parameters:

Location (adjacent to the house):

Corner.
End.
Front.

Degree of closure:

Open.
closed (glazed)

By installing sliding doors for the veranda, you can transform a closed veranda into an open one.

Design feature:

Built-in veranda (built with the house, has a common foundation with it).
Attached (attached as needed, has its own foundation).

Veranda shape:

A popular shape is the rectangle.
Round (semicircular)
Polygonal (hexagonal, octagonal).

The main purpose of the veranda is to make the house or cottage more spacious and decorate the building. The extension of the veranda also performs a purely utilitarian function - warming the house. Therefore, the question naturally arises, how to attach a veranda to the house correctly. Despite the fact that the veranda is a summer structure, its construction provides for the implementation of a number of rules.

What is included in the construction project of the veranda:

the location of the veranda. The main options are listed above. It is important that the extension is a continuation of the house, representing a single architectural ensemble with it.

Note. It is better to place the veranda on the east or west side, then most of the time it will be out of direct sunlight. Also, it is worth considering the wind load in the region and on the site, in particular.

entrance to the veranda. The entrance can be arranged from the street, from one of the rooms, or be through, through the street into the house;

location of the door. It is undesirable to place the entrance doors to the veranda and the house opposite each other, otherwise drafts cannot be avoided;

the size of the veranda in the house. The length of the veranda is usually equal to the length of the wall along which it is built. The width is from 2.5 to 7 m. It is important here that the size of the veranda is proportional to the size of the house.

Advice from the master There is no need to save on the project. Its high-quality execution is a guarantee that the veranda will be built correctly, and the execution of permits will not cause problems.

An example of a typical veranda project is shown in the diagram.

How to attach a veranda to a wooden house

Any extension to a house made of wood is carried out after shrinkage of the structure. A house made of timber or logs shrinks over a certain period (most actively the first 2-3 years). To avoid warping the walls, you need to wait for this period, or consider connecting with the house, allowing the frame to play.

2. Documents for the construction of the veranda (permit)

The extension of the veranda refers to the restructuring of the house. Therefore, it needs to obtain permits.

To obtain a permit for the construction of a veranda (for an extension, reconstruction), you must submit to the architecture department:

a document confirming the right to own the land;
project of a house with a veranda;
the consent of all residents registered in the house;
application for clearance.

Note. You need to start processing documents 2-3 months before the planned construction work. According to user reviews, this procedure takes quite a long time.

In principle, it is possible to complete the veranda without documents, however, when selling, renting or inheriting, problems with this property may arise. The veranda is included total area residential building, BTI may consider this as an "Unauthorized increase in living space." Especially if there is heating on the veranda (warm veranda).

During the construction of the veranda, one should not deviate from the dimensions indicated in the registered project. Any adjustment will result in a change in project documentation and payment of a fine. The consequences of unauthorized construction are spelled out in the Law of the Russian Federation "On Architectural Activities in the Russian Federation" and the Civil Code, an extract from which is given below.

The consequences for unauthorized construction are listed below.

The last thing to do after the construction of the veranda is to legalize the building with changes and get new documents.

3. Tools and materials for the construction of the veranda

The tool depends on what material will be used in the construction of the extension. For wood you need: a hacksaw, a screwdriver, a hammer and an ax, a sledgehammer, a tape measure, a plumb line, a level (building and water), a corner, a cord for marking, a shovel. For a metal frame, you will additionally need a grinder and a welding machine.

Material

The economy (budget) version of the veranda is a metal frame sheathed with plywood, OSB boards(OSB) or plastic clapboard.

A more presentable view has a brick veranda, natural stone or tree. It is important here that the material of the extension correspond to the material from which the house, cottage is built, or harmonize (combine) with them.

For the construction of a wooden veranda, you will need: lumber (log or timber, board, rail), fasteners (elements), protective solutions for wood, crushed stone, concrete, bitumen, drying oil or roofing material, window and door systems, roofing material.

For a veranda metal frame: lumber will be replaced by metal corners and steel profiles, metal processing solutions will be added, but otherwise the materials will be the same.

A polycarbonate veranda has proven itself well because it allows you to freely admire the surrounding landscape. In addition, polycarbonate retains heat well, transmits light, and can be used for both walls and roofs. Plus, the cost of the material is quite adequate. Cellular polycarbonate with a wall thickness of 14-18 mm is used.

Note. All materials requiring processing must be processed before work begins. After the veranda is built, processing will be more difficult.

Preparation for construction

The construction of the veranda begins with the preparation of the site. Part of the site, reserved for the veranda, turns into a construction site. Before starting work you need:

remove the visor above the entrance;
dismantle the porch;
clear the area of greenery and debris;
remove part of the turf;
consider the place of laying building materials and construction waste.

4. Foundation for the veranda to the house

Before you start pouring the foundation, you need to determine its type. The most widespread is the columnar foundation for the veranda, since it makes it possible to attach the veranda without being tied to the main foundation of the house. However, a heavier veranda needs a strip foundation to be poured.

An important point is the analysis of the soil, which makes it possible to reasonably choose the foundation for the veranda to the house. The following are taken into account: the ability of the soil to absorb moisture, the homogeneity and composition of the soil, the level of freezing, the height of the groundwater, and the stability of the soil.

In addition, the choice of the basis for the extension will be influenced by the design of the foundation of the house and the condition of the walls (wall material).

Having decided which foundation for the veranda is best done, they make markings for the tape or mark the place of installation of the pillars (supports) for the pile.

Note. For a small wooden veranda, it is enough to install pillars at the corners of the structure. For long and wide, provide additional poles along the length / width of the base. The recommended step for installing supports is 500-600 mm.

How to make a columnar foundation for a veranda

dig holes under the posts about 1 m deep. It is important to know that the depth of the foundation for the veranda depends on the depth of the foundation of the house (should be the same) and the level of soil freezing;

at the bottom of the pit, a pillow is made from a mixture of crushed stone and sand. They can also be covered in layers, first sand, then crushed stone or gravel;

a concrete base is poured;

laid out / inserted supporting pillars for the columnar foundation:

From brick. If you need to make an extension of the veranda to brick house;

From a bar. For a wooden veranda;

From asbestos pipes, concrete poles or metal supports. For frame veranda.

The ground part of the pillars is brought to the height of the main foundation of the house. If the base is high, you need to bring the extension to the level of the house.

An example is in the photo (the first floor is used as a garage, the veranda is at the level of the second floor).

The installation site is covered with sand to eliminate and strengthen the gap between the post and the soil.

The design of the veranda with a large mass requires pouring a strip foundation. To do this, you need to dig a trench, set up the formwork (slightly higher than the required foundation height), pour concrete. The process of complete solidification of concrete must be accompanied by periodic wetting with water for uniform hardening of the concrete mixture.

5. Veranda frame

The installation of the frame begins with the execution of the lower trim. To do this, a beam is laid on the supports.

Note. The lower harness may have a double system. It is on it that racks and floor logs will be attached in the future.

Next, supports are installed that form the frame of the veranda to the house. The frame of the wooden veranda is made of timber 120x80 or 100x100. When using logs, their diameter must exceed 120 mm. Supports are recommended to be installed at a distance of 500-600 mm, but in practice this is rare. However, the supports are necessarily installed at the corners and form the door/window openings.

The height of the supports is equal to the height of the veranda. At the same time, the supports installed closer to the wall should be higher in order to form pitched roof. The methods of fastening the racks to the bottom trim are shown in the figure.

Advice. The rigidity of the supports will be given by the braces (braces) installed above and below.

When mounting the frame, horizontal bars are installed, which will serve as the basis for installing the window sill during glazing.

The execution of the upper strapping ends the installation of the veranda frame. It will serve as the basis for the formation of the truss system, and will give the frame additional rigidity.

Note. To prevent the top trim from warping, the supports must be fixed with temporary struts.

Many are interested in how to make a veranda frame from a log house. Indeed, in this case, both the foundations of buildings and the log house itself are moving. Therefore, all connections must be able to move (shift). Shrinkage compensators are installed from below, and from above the roof is firmly attached to the rafters of the log house.

6. Veranda roof

Part of the frame is the rafter system of the veranda. The installation of rafters and battens depends on what kind of roofing material the roof of the veranda will be covered with.

From the point of view of design, the following types of roofs for the veranda are distinguished:

Shed roof veranda.

The simplest and best option. In this case, the truss system is mounted at an angle from the wall of the house, which allows rainwater or snow to flow down unhindered without causing harm to the building.

Note. shed roof more convenient from the point of view of the organization of drainage and, accordingly, the device of the drainage system.

Double roof veranda.

In this case, the veranda is attached to the house with a narrow part. It becomes like a gateway. This method has not found proper distribution. Most often, such a roof is erected over a terrace.

The polygonal roof for the veranda is built in such a way that the angle of inclination is maintained for water to drain.

Installation of the veranda truss system

A board-run is installed on the wall of the house (beam 100x80 mm). The beam is fastened with anchor bolts. The upper parts of the rafter legs are mounted on it.

A power plate is installed along the perimeter of the frame. In small wooden extensions, this function is performed by the top trim boards. The lower parts of the rafter legs are installed on them.

The lower part of the rafters is mounted so that it is possible to provide an overhang (removal) roofing material, which means protecting the veranda from the ingress of flowing water.

Note. The distance between the rafter legs depends on the slope of the roof, the width of the veranda, the weight of the roofing material.

When installing the roofing system of a polygonal veranda, a run board is additionally installed.

Depending on the material chosen, a crate is stuffed (for metal tiles, ondulin, slate) or a continuous crate is made (for flexible roofing materials).

How to attach a veranda to the house - video instruction

7. Floor on the veranda

The order of construction, materials, methods of fastening and processing.

Do-it-yourself flooring technology:

Logs are installed on the boards of the lower strapping. The distance between adjacent logs should be no more than 1 m. The logs are installed perpendicular to how the floorboard will be laid.

Fastening the lag to the harness - important point, the quality of its implementation determines performance characteristics gender. Setting the lag is controlled by the level.

What to make the floors on the open veranda

The concrete floor on the veranda is cheaper, plus, it is durable and requires subsequent finishing. For example, you can lay tiles or lay linoleum. The wooden floor on the veranda, even painted, will deform over time. The plinth is also recommended to use plastic with wood decor.

How to cover the floors on a closed veranda

The floor of the closed veranda is being laid. In this case, the installation begins with the board farthest from the entrance. It is attached to the lags directly through the board.

Subsequent boards are mounted using the tenon-groove method, and the fastening of the hardware is carried out through the groove.

How to fix the floorboard on the veranda

It is recommended to fix the floor boards with self-tapping screws. Their length should be twice the width of the board. The distance from the edge of the floorboard to the wall is 10-15 mm. Such a gap will compensate for the expansion of wood in the hot season.

How to cover the floor on the veranda (open, closed)

Wooden veranda flooring is one of the most popular and easy to install. Therefore, the actual question is how to process the floor on the veranda in order to extend the service life and preserve the aesthetic properties.

Floorboards will last longer if they are additionally covered with solutions that prevent the appearance of fungus. As a floor finish, a decorative layer of paint or stain is applied, varnished on top.

A novelty among paintwork materials is Dufa "Liquid Plastic" paint, designed for outdoor use (well suited for an open veranda).

Of the transparent coatings, the respect of users has earned:

Tikkurila Valtti (wood oil);
Pinotex Terrace Oil;
Alpina Oel Terrassen Dunkel;
Watco Danish Oil.;
as well as epoxy varnishes (yacht varnishes), which are designed for use in a humid environment.

the product must be intended for wood;

be resistant to abrasion;

differ in resistance to the influence of environmental factors (water, temperature, ultraviolet).

It is worth noting that veranda floor coverings are quite expensive, but this is justified by their service life, no refinishing and high aesthetic properties.

8. Roofing material for the veranda

As a roofing material, it is better to use such material for the roof of the veranda, which is installed on the main building (house or cottage). Well proven, shingles, . They are installed in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.

Note. To prevent water from flowing inside the veranda at the junction of the roof of the extension to the wall of the house, it is necessary to lay a joint bar over the roofing material.

The correct installation of the joint strip involves the manufacture of a gash in the wall of the house into the institution of the narrow edge of the strip into it.

You can admire the surrounding beauty in the warmth of the veranda by installing transparent roofs for the veranda. In this case, the role of the roofing material is played by glass or cellular polycarbonate.

Telescopic awning roofs or sliding roofs for the veranda are considered a novelty.

). Installation finishing materials depends on their type.

It is important to know that the wall of the veranda adjacent to the house is fixed with mortgages. metal elements(details). The fastening must be rigid.

Today, sheathing of the walls of the veranda with sliding systems is popular, the upper half of which is glass and the lower half is wooden.

Note. Before moving on to the outer interior decoration the walls of the veranda need to be given time to settle. This is especially true for wooden verandas.

10. Veranda glazing

Windows occupy a significant part of the area of the walls of the veranda. Due to the fact that the veranda is a summer building, they usually install single wooden windows, most often plastic or wooden. Aluminum windows with multi-chamber double-glazed windows are used.

The large veranda is equipped with both opening and blind windows. The first allow you to provide ventilation of the room, the second - to save on glazing. Sliding windows deserve attention, allowing you to turn the veranda into an open terrace.

Among the new products, flexible windows for the veranda stand out. They allow you to extend the operational period of the summer veranda. The advantage of windows in a relatively low cost, the ability to quickly assemble and disassemble for the winter. They make the high veranda safe for children to play without compromising its appeal.

Soft windows for the veranda - roll systems (PVC curtains), which allow you to glaze the veranda of any configuration (round, semicircular, oval).

Installation of soft windows - video

The veranda attached to the house allows you to expand the habitable area, get a place for a comfortable stay. Closed (glazed), it still reduces the heat loss of the house. The best part is that you can make it yourself. And there are options that require solid costs, there are inexpensive ones. There are a lot of varieties both in structure and in the materials used, you can decorate in any style.

What are

According to the method of arrangement, the veranda attached to the house can be closed - with glazing - or open. Open ones are used mainly in the warm period, closed ones can serve as a place to relax. all year round. The veranda attached to the house can be of two types at once: part can be glazed (closed), part can be open.

There are also walkways - this is when in order to get into the house you pass through it. Such extensions are located from the front of the house, sometimes from the side of the courtyard, if there are two exits from the house. Entrance to impassable only from the house. It is impossible to get outside from such a veranda.

An extension can cover one, two or more sides of the house. If it covers two adjacent parts of the house, it is called a corner. Some of them occupy only part of the wall.

The forms are different. More often it is a rectangle, less often - a hexagon, a semicircle, other non-standard shapes (it is more difficult to build such ones). In short, these are all types of verandas attached to the house, but without taking into account materials.

An addition around the perimeter gives the house an extravagant look.

What materials are they made from

Most often in our area they make wooden verandas. It is easier to work with wood, and it is not as expensive as in other countries. In areas where wood is very expensive, structural elements made of metal, and the skin is selected to your liking. It can be glass (double-glazed windows), polycarbonate.

They build the walls of the veranda from brick, shell rock, rubble stone, building blocks. Just like a house, they are then finished or not, depending on the design of the main building. They can just make a fence, as in the photo above.

If the tree is expensive, or reluctant to regularly work with its processing, the frame of the veranda is assembled from metal. For this, it is most often used profile pipe, corners or channel - depends on the material and size of the extension. It is easier to attach glass packs to metal, you can make not glazing, but use polycarbonate. This material may be different color and varying degrees of transparency. Despite the apparent fragility, there is a fairly durable material that is used to build greenhouses. And if so, then in the veranda, if it is closed, it will keep warm well.

Veranda attached to the house: construction stages

First of all, you need to decide on the type - open / closed, from what material, choose the type of foundation. You also need to decide what size it will have, where and how to be located. All this is desirable to draw on the plan. Even better - order a project. Construction according to the project is rather an exception for us, but at least a plan with dimensions and an indication of the location, binding to paths, etc. you should have.

Do-it-yourself construction of a veranda to the house follows the following plan (we build it from wood):

With the help of pegs and twine, mark the contours.
Take off the sod and fertile layer. If this is not done, the vegetation under the deck will rot, spreading aromas.
Lay out the foundation. At this stage, questions may arise: how high should it be. If you make the foundation incoherent and “floating”, the level of the veranda flooring should be 5-10 cm below the floor level. This is necessary so that even when raised, the extension does not block the front door. If you do not want the floor to be lower, you will have to front door make a high threshold: to guarantee the freedom of opening the door. The height of the support beam depends on the height at which the floor of the extension will be located. It is nailed to the wall of the house, floor beams are attached to it. The height of the foundation is beaten along its lower edge (these are the next two steps).
Nail a support beam to the wall, along the lower edge of which the height of the foundation is beaten off.
How to mark the extension: nail the support beam at the required level, beat off the height of the foundation along its lower edge
Build a foundation.
While the concrete is gaining at least half the strength, you complete the preparation of the site. If at the bottom of the pit (the fertile layer was removed) the soil passes water well (sandy, sandy loam), crushed stone is poured to the bottom. It can be compacted, but you can do without it. If there is loam or clay under the fertile layer, you will have to fill the pit with either the same soil (but not fertile) or pure clay. It must be well compacted so that voids are not created in which water will accumulate (it is better to lay layers soaked to a paste state).
A layer of waterproofing is laid on the finished foundation.
Support racks under the roof are exposed and fixed.
They make the strapping of the racks: they nail a timber 100 * 150 mm thick around the perimeter. It can be nailed outside the racks or between them. Sometimes the racks are nailed after the floor has been laid. This is not the most the best way: the floor will quickly become unusable. With such a structure, in order to replace it, you will have to disassemble everything, up to the roof. If you first set the racks, and then the floor, it can be repaired without problems.
This is how the assembled frame of the veranda attached to the house looks like. Intermediate racks are needed only if the width of the veranda is more than 3 meters.
Floor beams (beam 100 * 150 mm) are attached to the foundation and the supporting beam. The step of their installation corresponds to the step of installing piles or posts.
Assemble the truss system.
Side railings (for open) or walls (for glazed) are installed. At this stage, the general technology ends. Further, for the covered ones, it is longer, the open veranda is easier to attach to the house:
- For open beams, floor boards are nailed.
- For glazed make insulated floor. A draft floor is nailed to the beams. Above - logs, between them - a heater, on top - a finishing floor.
Roof laying.
Wall decoration inside and outside.

These are just general steps. To have a more complete picture of how to make a veranda to the house, we will further consider the most problematic moments of construction in more detail.

Perhaps you are interested in building a gazebo?

Foundation

If the veranda is attached to the house, the foundations are very rarely made connected. Firstly, the house has already settled, the shrinkage has passed. If a “fresh” building is rigidly attached to it, problems will inevitably arise. If it is possible to tie them, then only on stable, reliable soils, on which there are no movements. Secondly, heavy foundations are rarely made for extensions of this type. The building itself turns out to be light - especially open from wood or frame - and the bearing capacity is enough.

In general, they put verandas on the same foundations as at home. Another thing is that most of them stand on columnar bases: the costs are small, it takes a little time. And although all architects and designers claim that it is much more difficult to put up the correct columnar foundation than (although the tape one is much more expensive), people put the pillars.

Column and pile foundation

If you decide to attach a veranda to wooden house, you can put a columnar foundation. To make it yourself, you need to find out at what depth and at what distance the supports are placed. The distance between the posts depends on the material from which the extension will be built. If these are light materials - wood or light frame construction - you can set them in increments of 1.5 meters. For heavier ones, the distance should be from 1 meter.

Columnar foundation for the veranda - the columns are made of bricks. This open veranda is attached to a wooden house. The house stands on strip foundation. The foundations of the extension and the house are not connected

When choosing the depth of columns, there are two approaches:

Bury below freezing depth. This is done on water-saturated soils prone to heaving. In this case, the veranda will stand on the same level, without changing its position, regardless of the heaving forces. For a columnar foundation, this only makes sense if the freezing depth is not more than 1.2 meters. At great depths, it is easier to make a pile foundation (better -). Pile holes are not very difficult to make even if you need to drill 2 meters. For the construction of columns for each of them, digging a pit of the same depth is difficult and time-consuming.
Make a shallow foundation: 20-30 cm below the fertile layer. In this case, get a floating veranda, which will be understood and lowered during frost heaving. It is much easier to build such a structure, but every spring you will have to deal with the consequences of heaving. Different pillars will “walk” in different ways and you will have to somehow rectify the situation. But this is on heaving soils (clay, loam). On stable soils that are not prone to heaving, there will be no such problems.

What is good about this option for a foundation for a veranda to a house? Quickly built, the cost of work and building materials is small.

The veranda is attached to a brick house on a strip foundation. They put it on . It differs from the columnar one in that the piles are either screwed in / hammered ready, or poured into the formwork and turn out to be monolithic

Disadvantages: It is difficult to predict its behavior. And both deep and shallow. With a shallow foundation, everything depends on the winter and the degree of saturation of the soil with water, which is impossible to foresee and calculate. With deep laying, there is also a problem: it is not known what is under each of the piles. After all, you cannot do a geological survey at all points. And in those areas where the soil has a complex layered structure, it is quite possible to get into some kind of pocket, because of which the pile will not behave as expected. Also in the case of piles or deep-buried columns, it is necessary to remember the lateral heaving forces. They may well break long and thin piles or poles. Therefore, on problematic soils for piles, a strong formwork (metal, asbestos) is taken and they are also reinforced: in the manufacture of pillars, a steel pipe coated with a primer is inserted inside, around which masonry is carried out. It is also possible to lay reinforcing belts. In the manufacture of bored piles, three or four reinforcement bars are necessarily inserted inside, which add strength to them. Attaching a veranda with your own hands on a pile foundation can be quick and inexpensive, but the risks on heaving soils are high.

Monolithic: tape and slab

If you are going to build a veranda from brick, rubble or other similar heavy materials, and even with heavy cladding, you need a monolithic foundation. You will either have to pour the tape, or make a plate. They are made according to all the rules without any exceptions: with formwork, reinforcement, vibration, etc. Fully tech.

When building such a foundation, it can already be connected with the main one: you will have to make it to the same depth and, most likely, it will behave stably.

Advantages: high reliability and stability. Disadvantages: significant cost and duration of the construction process.

bedding

If the house is located on dry soils or in a region where frost heaving is just a scary tale, if it does not have a plinth, a veranda attached to the house can do without a foundation. In this case, the fertile layer is removed along with the vegetation, the bottom of the pit is rammed, then crushed stone is poured, rammed, then sand, which is also compacted. Flooring can already be laid on this base: wooden, paving slabs or slabs.

The veranda attached to the house can be without a foundation

One “but” of the racks on which the roof will rest still needs to be strengthened in some way. For them, small piles are made or columns are folded (from about the same depth where they started laying rubble under the flooring).

How thick should the bedding be? It depends, firstly, on the thickness of the fertile layer, and secondly, on the choice of floor covering. If these are wooden boards (as in the photo), you need to choose the layers so that they lie flush with the ground. If you plan to put paving slabs, you will have to take into account its thickness. Although, it can be slightly raised above ground level to separate it from the yard. But then a curb is placed along the edge.

In this photo, an open veranda is attached to the house without a foundation - it is rather a summer canopy with a polycarbonate roof and an open wooden fence

How to attach the rack and bottom harness

Work on the construction of the veranda frame begins after the foundation concrete (if used) has gained some strength. Enough 50% of the calculated, and this at a temperature of + 20 ° C, will occur in 4-5 days. Then, on top of the concrete, in those places where the racks or strapping will be attached, waterproofing is laid in two layers. It can be roofing material, roofing felt, folded twice. Can be washed twice bituminous mastic or use other modern materials.

Then there are two ways:

fix the racks and then the strapping;
first strapping, racks to them.

If the first option is chosen, special holders are inserted into the foundation for racks during pouring. It can be various devices(see photo), but the most convenient is a metal plate in the form of an inverted letter "P", to the bottom of which a stud is welded, which is walled up in the foundation. A rack is inserted into this plate (the end must be treated with an antiseptic), its level is verified, and it is fixed with bolts or nails.

How to fix the racks to the foundation

After all the racks are exposed and fixed, strapping bars are nailed between them.

In the second option, the situation is different: the racks will have to be attached to the harness. The strapping bar is attached first. It is more convenient to do this if studs are embedded in concrete with some step. Then holes are made in the beam in the right places, it is put on studs and fixed with bolts. Then, using one of the methods suggested in the photo, racks are installed.

Options for attaching racks to the strapping beam

Any of these methods does not preclude the use metal corners. They make the mount more reliable, which is very important in this case. After all, the roof will be held on the racks, and the walls or the fence.

Fastening the lag to the harness

They can be mounted on top of the harness, or on the same level with its upper edge. It is necessary to decide exactly how you will do this at the very beginning of the work: it will depend on what level it will be necessary to attach the support burs to the wall of the house (the height of the lag is taken into account or not). Methods for fixing the floor lag are shown in the photo below.

How to attach the floor logs to the strapping

Veranda roof connection

The veranda attached to the house is usually covered with the same type of roofing as scrap. There may be several options and the organization of the adjoining of the roof depends on how and to which wall you attach it. If the roof will be a continuation of the roof slope of the house, you need to splice two truss systems. In this case, they say that the roof of the veranda adjoins the roof of the house.

Then the procedure is:

Top trims are attached to the veranda posts.
Transverse ceiling beams are nailed to the strapping. The ceiling is then hemmed to them.
The long rafter legs of the house are shortened. They should not protrude beyond the wall.
The rafters of the veranda are made from a planed board, which are cut off at an angle from the side of the roof so that they adjoin the existing ones (see the photo below). To make it easier to work, you can make a template, according to which you can then prepare the rafters on the ground. rafter legs fastened to the house system through nails, you can put metal reinforcing plates on the side.
To increase the rigidity of the structure, spacers (anti-snow supports) are installed between the rafters of the house and the extension. They are shown in the photo explaining the design.

If the width of the veranda is more than 2 meters or heavy roofing material will be used, spacers are installed so that the support beam does not sag. It is better not to nail them on the side, namely, to insert them by surprise between the ceiling beam and the rafter leg.

In order to prevent sagging of the roof, spacers are installed between ceiling beams and rafters

More often it turns out that the roof of the veranda attached to the house adjoins the wall. In this case, a strobe is made in the wall, a special wall profile is laid into it, which is laid on the roofing with the second side. The place where it adjoins the wall is sealed with sealant.

The second option differs only in the shape of the wall profile: it can be made independently from a sheet of roofing iron. This design is distinguished by the presence of a beam, which allows you to move the bend away from the wall of the house and cover up possible errors when laying the roofing material at the junction. Also, in this embodiment, the apron is not attached directly to the wall material, but to a beam with a beveled edge mounted in a strobe.

The second option for adjoining the roof of the extension to the wall of the house

Some questions may arise on how to attach the rafters to the outer upper harness, because its dimensions do not allow making cuts, as on a Mauerlat. The usual solution: with the help of corners (see photo). Instead of corners, small cross-section bars can be used.

Maybe not the most elegant solution, but reliable. After everything is covered with roofing from above, the lining will be lined from below, they will not be visible.