The draft floor, as a base, can be made in wooden and concrete houses. The pre-floor must be perfectly level. Installation of such a coating is a laborious process, and it is best to trust professionals.

Of course, the subfloor in wooden house you can do it yourself.

Before moving on to installation, we will analyze with you the types and purpose of subfloors.

Varieties of rough floors

Flooring directly on the logs. In this case, we use chipboard, OSB, plywood or boards, which in turn are laid on logs.

This type of subfloor is well suited for surfaces with low load-bearing characteristics, which allows you to distribute the load over the entire floor area. It is recommended to use such coatings as laminate, linoleum or parquet board.

Flooring directly under the joists. It is also called a double layer. The space from the log to the log is filled with waterproofing, thermal insulation, vapor barrier.

Draft floor directly on the bearing beams. This floor option should be laid when designing a house.

In order to reduce the step between the beams from 1.2-1.5 m, as is usually the case, to 0.6-1 m, then the beams will replace the logs. We refuse the extra layer. In terms of everything expendable materials, we get, and save about 30%.

Plus, we get an increase in the height of the room. But, in the case when you bought a ready-made house, you should not be upset, the subfloor boards can be thrown diagonally across the beams, this will ensure high strength of the floor surface.

Subfloor types:

A wet base is a screed (concrete base) under the space on which the wooden floor will be installed.

Since the concrete base is not level, an additional leveling layer will be required. It is possible to make a topcoat only after the complete drying of the rough base, approximately 7-8 days.

Dry is a log flooring. They are laid on the ground covered with sand. When installing a lag, use a ruler and a level. Unlike a concrete base, the floor on the logs is difficult to bring to a perfectly even state.

Protecting the subfloor from moisture

All components of the subfloor must be treated with special agents against mold and rot. The processing of all wooden elements is carried out after drying - this is a very important point, the less moisture in the tree, the better and deeper it absorbs antiseptics.

Impregnation is done at least 2 times, do not forget about the cross sections of wood, they must be processed. It is not recommended to first lay the boards and then process them, because the ends will be open to mold and water vapor.

Underground natural ventilation, the most important Organizing time, when installing the subfloor. If it is not organized correctly, then not a single antiseptic will help you, and after a while you will have to change everything. flooring.

The vent is made at a height of 30-40 cm, and 90 cm from the corner wooden house so that the air does not stagnate.

From the protection of small rodents, a metal grill can be installed on the vents. For the winter, you can close the vents to keep the heat on the first floor, but be sure to open it with warming.

The preliminary floor should not be continuous. For flooring, you can use any material that can withstand this load.

Waterproofing is mainly used over the subfloor. But, it can also be used before, or crushed stone can act as a material.

Roofing material is used as waterproofing over the floor. On top of the waterproofing, we lay a layer of insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene).

After a layer of insulation, you can proceed with the installation of the finished floor, but professionals recommend over the layer of insulation, apply another layer of waterproofing, and then the final floor covering.

Laying a subfloor on a concrete base

The most important condition is that the screed is perfectly even.

There are two options for installing a subfloor on the surface of a concrete base:

Reiki are used when it is necessary to carry out communications, install additional insulation or a screed has significant differences, more than 2-3 mm.

Between the slats and the screed we lay a layer of waterproofing, usually this is roofing material. We align the slats with linings and fasten with dowels. If necessary, we additionally insulate or install communications. Subsequently, we mount the floor with boards or slabs.

Remember that on one rail two plates will dock in the middle. The tiles are laid out as brickwork, thanks to this we get a uniform distribution of the load on the rails. We fix plates or boards with nails or self-tapping screws.

Laying a subfloor on a concrete base, used on a perfectly flat surface. To obtain a flat surface, auxiliary compounds are used, usually a construction adhesive. The glue is applied in an even layer, the plates are laid one after the other.

The glue under the slab removes, all the bumps and the subfloor becomes a monolith with concrete surface. Hats of nails and self-tapping screws are recessed using a screwdriver or a puncher. The holes from the hats are puttied with a special compound.

It is important to always leave a distance of approximately 1 to 2 cm between the walls and the floor. Do not forget to lay this distance with any insulation. If you plan to lay linoleum on top, then it must be sanded with special machines. Mainly the joints of the plates.

Price of work performed

• Draft floor work for 1 sq.m. - an average of 150-200 rubles.
• Finishing floor work for 1 sq.m. - an average of 150-200 rubles.
• Completely rough floor, for 1 sq.m - an average of 1200-1500 rubles.
• Completely finished floor, for 1 sq.m. - an average of 2400-2800 rubles.

Laying a subfloor is a rather laborious operation, but it is absolutely necessary. The device of the lower floor of the house serves as its basis and is connected with the foundation. The rough floor serves as an intermediate link between the foundation and the final finish, while performing a number of specific functions.

1. Draft floor as a structural element of the house

After tying the foundation, the first step is to install the lower floor of the house. On it you can carry out further work on the installation of walls. This is especially true for building frame house using frame-frame technology, and laying bricks, wall blocks from the inside requires a solid foundation under your feet. In addition, the lower ceiling performs a number of other functions, being a necessary element of the building.

Draft floor:

1. Carries out the distribution of all loads on the lower floor, such as weight bearing walls and partitions, all people, furniture, appliances and appliances
2. Serves as the basis for the work on assembling the frame and erecting walls
3. Is the basis for the finishing floor
4. It is a component of the overall shell of the house, protecting it primarily from low temperatures

It is obvious that everything listed features subfloor make special demands on its installation, such as strength, surface evenness, resistance to atmospheric influences.

2. Types of floors

The main reason for installing various designs subfloor is a difference in the type of construction of the houses themselves. The house can be stone, block, built of logs or thick timber, frame. Under Various types houses can be mortgaged different types foundations:

• slab
• Tape
• Columnar
• Pile screw

The deepening of the foundation and its strapping can also vary somewhat. However, there are some common features and features of subflooring for all types of structures. In many cases, the base for the subfloor is the strapping bars, which receive and transfer all loads from the floor directly to the foundation.

In accordance with their functions, the draft floors are several layers responsible for each of them:

1. The base of the floor is either soil or floor elements
2. The underlying layer is a layer of gravel, sand, slag, expanded clay, etc.
3. Base for coating (screed) - monolithic leveling layer
4. Layer of hydro and thermal insulation
5. The floor covering itself

Draft floors are divided into three main types:

• By lags
• By the beams
• On the ground

The difference between the types of subfloor is in the way it is laid, as can be seen from the name.

3. Preparation for installation of the subfloor

If the foundation of the house does not provide for a basement, then the ground serves as the basis for laying the subfloor. It must be prepared accordingly for the device of the subfloor.

Grass, various construction debris and vegetable soil are removed. Important point: you need to dry clay and loamy soils as best as possible, so they can contain a lot of moisture in the base. It is also impossible to use soils with an admixture of snow and ice.

The site is then carefully leveled. If necessary, soil can be added to the pits. After adding the soil, it is distributed in an even layer and tamped with manual or mechanical rammers.

4. Laying the subfloor along the logs

The device of the floor along the lags is a fairly popular way.

In this case, it is made wooden frame, which is laid on a strapping beam or other specially made supports. The logs themselves are a bar or a thick board, sometimes placed on edge.

In this case, the height of the floor should be insignificant - so that there is no danger of failure to a great depth. The distance from the floor to the log should not be more than 25-30 cm.

With a significant width of the room, the logs will have a large length, and it is not enough to lay them only on the external strapping beam. In this case, additional supports are placed under the logs. There are several ways to arrange supports for logs.

The base is concreted and a thick board is laid on it, which serves as a crate for installing a log. This method is especially well suited for a low base above the ground. If the distance under the floor is large 15-20 cm and the floor is not concreted, posts are installed under the boards of the lower crate, in increments of about 80 cm. The posts can be installed in this way:

1. Holes come off, slightly wider than the cross section of the columns (35-40 cm)
2. They are concreted so that the upper base protrudes slightly above the ground.
3. Brick columns are laid out.

Usually it is enough to lay out the columns in two bricks in two layers, perpendicular to one another. You can completely make columns out of concrete, but then you will need to build a high formwork.

The height of all columns must be displayed in one plane. This is controlled already when laying the foundations for them. If necessary, the height of the columns is adjusted with various substrates: wooden spacers are installed between the surface of the boards and the logs, the dimensions of which are about 20-25 cm long, 10-15 cm wide, and about 3 cm thick. They adjust the horizontal plane of the log. For fine adjustments, thin sheets of plywood are usually used.

On top of the posts, you need to lay a layer of waterproofing, for example, from roofing material.

The distance between the lags should not exceed 0.5 m. A small gap must be left near the walls, taking into account the deformation of the wood.

On top of the log for the finishing floor, you can fix plates made of durable material - OSB or thick plywood. It is recommended to do this "out of the box", that is, the subsequent layer of plywood or OSB is slightly shifted relative to the previous one.

If necessary, the cavities between the lags can be filled with insulation. It can be expanded clay or mineral wool - depending on the degree of necessary insulation of the house.

5. Floor on adjustable joists

AT recent times acquires a method of installing a log on adjustable stands. These are plastic screw supports, strong enough and light. They are equipped with a square section stand, which is placed on a rigid base and a height-adjustable screw. With their use, you can quickly equip the subfloor, moreover, it will not come into contact with the base, it will be well ventilated, and therefore the need for waterproofing disappears.

The order of installation of such lags is as follows:

1. Holes are drilled in the log boards - in increments of 50-80cm
2. Lag is installed in the right place
3. The support is attached to the base
4. Racks are twisted to the required level

6. Subfloor flooring on beams

The next way to lay the subfloor is to install it on the beams. Here the main structural element is a wooden beam. It is made from a rectangular bar. To determine the cross section of the beam, all load characteristics on the base of the ground floor premises are taken into account. In order not to use a heavy thick timber that is physically difficult to work with, you can use double boards or boards mounted on an edge. A good option would be to use hewn logs.

The load on the beams is calculated from a number of parameters that we mentioned above. It is believed that the total load from the weight of furniture, fittings, etc. can be about 400 kg per 1 m2 of floor area.

Span length, m	Installation step, m
	0.6 m	1.0 m
3	75x200mm	100x175mm
4	100x200mm	125x200mm
5	125x200mm	150x225mm
6	150x225mm	175x200mm
7	150x300mm	200x275mm

The beams are mounted parallel to each other. With a room width of more than 6 meters, additional supports must be installed under the beams. These can be columns, the installation of which was described above.

Beams are fastened directly to the walls. A hole is cut in the wall corresponding to the section of the beam, and the beam is laid into it with its end. To isolate from external influences, this hole is laid with tow. The installation depth of the beams in the walls depends on the section of the beams. The thinner the beams, the deeper they should go into the holes (up to 100-150mm).

Often, the transverse beams for the subfloor are elements of the lower piping of the foundation.

7. Laying the floor on the ground

In many cases, especially if the floor height is low, it is laid using the “on the ground” method. In this case, you do not have to spend a lot of expensive lumber.

Let's consider this method in detail. It consists of several stages:

1. Base Leveling
2. Backfilling with a layer of sand 10-15 cm at a humidity of 7-10%
3. Sand compaction
4. Adding crushed stone and gravel with a thickness of 8-20 cm at a moisture content of 5-7%
5. Laying adobe-crushed stone or adobe-gravel layer with a thickness of about 10 cm
6. Compaction of this layer and the appearance of moisture on the surface
7. Pouring concrete mixture

As a result, after hardening, we will get a flat solid surface on which you can immediately lay the finishing floor. The layers of the subfloor for better fastening and solidity of the screed are usually reinforced with reinforcing mesh. Thermal insulation of such a floor is conveniently carried out with expanded polystyrene plates.

8. Device of couplers

The top layer of the subfloor on the ground is called the screed. The straps are made from cement-sand mortars. The main purpose of the screed is to create a perfectly flat surface for laying the finished floor. To bring the plane, so-called beacons are installed. These are, as a rule, slats with a thickness selected for the creation of a plane. The mixture is applied to the floor and accelerated to the height of the rails.

The junction of the screed to the walls and partitions must be laid with waterproofing. The surface during the laying process is continuously leveled, as the concrete tends to settle.

Work on the creation of screeds must be carried out in the warm season, with an optimum air temperature of at least 15 degrees. On top of the main screed, it is recommended to apply a self-leveling layer (its thickness is about 5-10 mm) using the bulk method. To do this, there are many different mixtures on sale.

The final stage of the screed device is its primer and waterproofing. The surface before applying primers is cleaned and primed without gaps.

9. Conclusion

The device of draft floors is a rather laborious process that requires compliance with all technologies, accuracy and well-known skill. In the simplest cases, you can do it yourself, but it’s better to turn to professionals - the structural strength of the building, the evenness of the surface and its suitability for finishing, as well as sufficient insulation and waterproofing of the whole house, largely depend on the installation of the floor.

Specialists of the company "K-DOM" are ready to perform work on flooring, both rough and finish, in compliance with all requirements. Works can be performed both separately and as part of the construction of turnkey cottages.

Floors in wooden houses should be reliable, warm, durable and beautiful. You can achieve the desired result on your own or with the involvement of professional builders. Information about the features of flooring in a wooden house is important in both cases. First, because it will take self-fulfillment works, and secondly - to control employees.

Process features

The floors in a wooden house consist of several layers. And in order to ensure comfortable living conditions, it is important to correctly determine the components of the floor "pie".

main element building structure for the floor is strapping. For capital buildings, it is usually made of a powerful bar with cross-sectional parameters of at least 150 x 80 millimeters.

Often the timber is replaced by several boards, securely interconnected. Board binding is more stable. The boards are not subjected to the stresses experienced by the timber.

Products used for strapping are subject to pre-treatment with an antiseptic. Used oils are often used as such. Oiled wooden details do not rot and do not absorb moisture, so they serve for many years. In the absence of oil, apply special means available at every hardware store.

To extend the life of the strapping, waterproofing must be laid on the foundation. Usually it is a roofing material folded in two layers.

By strapping, you need to install lags. These are wide powerful boards, which need to be strengthened on the edge. They, like the strapping, need to be treated with an antiseptic. Logs must first be carefully examined, cracks repaired if any. Boards with big flaws should be replaced with better ones.

In light buildings, it is allowed to make logs prefabricated. For fastening constituent parts use special staples or studs. Docking points should be supported for greater reliability.

If the load is planned to be significant, it is better to strengthen the structure in advance. For this, the lag section is calculated, and their step is made small, from 60 centimeters.

The logs are hemmed with boards, along which a membrane is laid to prevent the penetration of wind and moisture into the room. A heater is placed in the formed cells. Depending on the chosen method, it can be either expanded clay or polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam or mineral wool. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier. Further actions depend on the preferences of the owners of the house. Any floor can be used as a finishing floor. available options, including water heated floors.

Structure structure

It is not enough to build a wooden house, you need to correctly bring engineering communications, such as:

• heating;
• water supply;
• sewerage;
• electrical wiring.

The abundance of engineering structures in the premises does not look aesthetically pleasing, so it is customary to hide them under the floor. The space between the lags allows you to cover most of the pipes. If there is an underground or basement floor, under the subfloor, you can install electric water heater, and it is possible to equip a gas boiler room. Especially important is the location of the water heater under the floor for a small shower room.

When building a house, it is worth remembering that the wooden floor should be protected from water vapor. Modern building materials allow the structure to breathe and at the same time reliably protect against moisture damage. Excellent insulation is obtained from isospan.

Izospan is used both in the equipment of the first floor and the second. It is laid under the mineral insulation and above it. The non-woven material is produced in narrow rolls. Separate parts during laying should be overlapped and glued with special double-sided tape. In places of contact with the lags, isospan is attached to them with a construction stapler.

The insulating layer is covered with a continuous flooring. Perhaps better than others, OSB plates are suitable for this purpose.

OSB boards widely used in residential construction. They are perfect for arranging floors in wooden houses. Oriented strand board floors are good for underlayment under boardwalk, parquet, linoleum, carpet and laminate. But you should not do OSB with a finish coating.

For laying on logs set in 50 cm increments, 18 mm is considered a sufficient thickness of the plates. If the distance between adjacent lags is 10 cm greater, a greater thickness will be required - 20 mm. OSB boards are made by pressing with a special adhesive. They are durable, do not rot and do not dry out. Floors laid on OSB sheets do not creak when walking.

Laying is done quickly, because:

• does not require special skills;
• the sheets have the correct geometric shape, and time is not spent on fitting;
• one standard plate (2500 x 1250 mm) covers an area of ​​3.1 m2.

Floor types

In private wooden houses, the type of floor depends on the method of overlapping. There are two options: concrete (reinforced concrete slab) or wood. On the second floor, the floors are usually made of wood, since heavier reinforced concrete slabs only increase the load on the foundation.

Inside the house, you can equip any of modern options floors: laminate, parquet, cork, tiles and others.

Concrete the floors are formed by pouring the screed. In some cases, this option saves construction time. The screed is completely ready for further processing a month later. raw wood requires drying, it takes much more time.

Concrete floors in wooden houses reduce the cost of finishing floors. A well-made screed can serve as the basis for finishing without additional layers and leveling the surface.

If it is necessary to raise the floor to a certain height, light expanded clay is poured under the screed. This reduces the load on the base without increasing the thickness of the screed itself.

In a new house, there is a high probability of cracking of the cement screed due to shrinkage of the structure. Serious damage will not follow, however, heat loss is possible. You can prevent negative consequences by laying a reliable insulation.

Concrete flooring is possible after calculations. As a rule, such a decision is made if the capital structure has a strip foundation.

The same is more suitable for a wooden house wooden floor. Wood is environmentally friendly, does not cause allergic reactions in residents: adults and children. natural material increasingly used by owners country houses, preferring it to bricks and various blocks.

Plank flooring is easy to sheathe with boards on both sides. Reliable fastening allows you to equip a "pie" of insulation, vapor and waterproofing. The multilayer structure can be made as a floating floor. In this case, it will not have direct contact with the base and walls of the house.

Preparatory work

No matter on the foundation, the ground, screw piles or just a building is being erected on brick columns, the arrangement of the floor begins with preparatory work.

First prepare the walls, equipping them with ventilation holes. The lack of air access to the underground will lead to the rapid destruction of the wooden components of the structure.

The materials necessary for arranging the overlap must be correctly calculated. It will not be superfluous and a stock of wood of 10-15 percent.

Installation can begin when the bars and boards are sufficiently dry. When the humidity becomes normal, the material is inspected, sorted and treated with agents against rot and fungus.

Draft two-layer floors are made where the base has to be laid directly on open ground.

There are several ways to lay the floor on the ground. If you lower the floor to a minimum, then you can tamp the ground, lay out a pillow of sand, gravel or expanded clay, and then fill it with concrete. True, this option is more suitable for a garage, and not for places intended for permanent residence of people.

In the lung country house used for a seasonal stay, you need to do the floor differently. First you need to set up brick columns around the entire perimeter. It is very important to ensure that the surfaces of the supports have a single height (bring them to one horizon). On each support you need to lay a gasket made of roofing material or roofing felt. A 3 cm thick wooden lining treated with an antiseptic should be placed on the waterproofing layer.

This whole structure is closed with bars, along which lags are set with constant horizontal adjustment. The design is finally fixed with fasteners. The floor is located on the logs if the manufacture is carried out with a single flooring.

A double floor assumes the presence of laying insulation between the rough and finishing floor, hydro and vapor barrier, and, if necessary, other components.

Laying methods

Rooms in a wooden house will take on a presentable look, and staying in them will become truly comfortable if the flooring is in harmony with the walls. Homogeneous material will make the interior of the room complete.

The choice of type of wood for the floor depends on:

• material opportunities;
• purpose of the premises;
• planned loads.

With an unlimited budget, they choose the most beautiful, durable and dense materials from foreign countries. Exotic trees growing in tropical forests have unique properties. They withstand strong moisture, are easy to process, resistant to abrasion. In addition, boards from such trees are distinguished by beautiful colors. For example, merbau wood can be golden orange or reddish brown. A purple floor can be made using rosewood. And striped flooring is obtained when buying very expensive zebrano wood.

Boards made of coniferous trees, including pine and spruce, will not require large expenses. From such floors, the room is filled with substances useful for humans and a pleasant aroma. The wood always remains warm, so it is pleasant to walk on the floor with bare feet.

For showers, baths and saunas, aspen and lime boards are required. They do not emit resin, are resistant to water and high temperatures.

On a veranda open to precipitation, the floor is best made of corrugated oak or larch boards.

The thickness of the floorboards must be chosen taking into account the distance between adjacent lags. With a distance of 600 - 700 mm, a thickness of 40 mm is sufficient. If the spans are larger than the specified size, boards with a thickness of 50 mm should be preferred. As for the width, it is set by the design project or the preferences of the owners.

If you decide to do the flooring with your own hands, remember that it is inconvenient to lay wide boards alone. In addition, the larger the canvas, the greater its shrinkage. The results of this inevitable process can affect the quality of the wood floor covering. For this reason, it is better to take narrow and not too long boards.

One way to install the floor is to lay it apart, with this method, the joints of the ends of the boards should not coincide in adjacent rows.

If plywood is used as the base, parquet boards glued with mastic or glue and additionally fixed with self-tapping screws, as in the case of a massive board. It is necessary to glue over the entire area, without voids.

In addition to the traditional straight styling, they use a diagonal one. Laying at an angle of 45 ° to the wall looks especially elegant in a spacious room.

Arranging the floor requires thorough preparation, quite a lot of time and physical effort. Despite this, many believe that it is possible self-installation without the involvement of specialists and additional costs. Indeed, having shown perseverance, observing step by step guide, you can do without outside help and save a lot of money.

If it is necessary to re-lay the floor, the worn top coat is removed, the condition of the substrate is checked and, if necessary, repaired. Logs that have flaws must be replaced, as well as other components of the base affected by rot or fungus. During overhaul floors change wet or caked insulation, as well as insulation.

If the logs are in good condition, but begin to sag, you need to put a lining under them, for example, from plywood smeared with parquet glue.

Instead of expensive membrane films, glassine can be used as a moisture barrier.

When the flooring under the finish coating is performed with sheet building material (fiberboard, OSB, plywood), it is attached to the base with self-tapping screws. Fastening points should be located at a distance of at least 20 mm from the edge of the sheet with a step of about 150 mm. The heads of the self-tapping screws must be recessed into the body by 3 mm. The resulting recesses should be puttied. Without putty, the finish at the attachment points will be adversely affected. And after some time, traces of poor-quality work will appear on it.

Many novice builders who have just started building their home are already considering what kind of linoleum or laminate they will lay in the future room.

And soon, before them the question arises - How and on what to lay this linoleum. Of course, we all understand that first you need to make the so-called subfloor - the basis on which, in the future, you can lay any floor covering you like. But, how to make the floor “from scratch” correctly, so that it is reliable, even and, most importantly, warm. You will find the answer in this article.

To make a rough floor with your own hands, you do not need any professional skills or special tools. The main thing you need is a good physical strength and a head on his shoulders, as well as some, the most common instrument. But more on that later, first you need to decide which construction material will need to be purchased for the construction of a subfloor. The choice of materials for the floor on the construction market is now huge, but we will consider the most common option - no less reliable and at the same time not expensive.

We use the following lumber:

— wooden beam with dimensions of 100 by 150 mm (or 150 by 200 mm) and a length of 6000 mm;
- a wooden block with dimensions of 50 by 50 mm (or 60 by 60 mm) and a length of 3000 mm;
- planed boards 50 mm thick and 6000 mm long;
- OSB sheets with dimensions of 1250 by 2500 mm and a minimum thickness of 12 mm.

As a heater, it is desirable to use basalt insulation (in a simple way, glass wool). To protect lumber from mold and decay, you need to purchase a special solution (antiseptic). You may also need cement mortar during the construction of the floor. Now consider all the lumber used separately, as well as what role they play in draft floor.
Lumber used.

Wooden beams, with dimensions of 100 by 150 mm, are used as load-bearing logs, on which, subsequently, the entire floor in the room will rest.

Bars with dimensions of 50 by 50 mm are designed to accommodate insulation in the floor.

The cost of timber, on average, is about 6,500 rubles per cubic meter. To calculate the total cubic capacity of all bars, you will need to calculate the volume of one bar and multiply by the required number of bars. The volume of any bar is considered as the volume of a parallelepiped.

Choosing the right board
The board plays an important role, therefore it is better to use planed larch as the base of the subfloor. The cost of one cube of such a board is about the same as that of the bars. Cubature is considered similar.

All of the listed lumber should be made mainly from coniferous trees, such as larch, it is less afraid of moisture and dampness, which means it will last longer. By the way, the whole of St. Petersburg, which is already over 300 years old, was built from it!

When buying beams and boards, you will need to take into account that the drier the lumber, the better and more expensive it is. After all, the dried boards will no longer warp and will not go (by helicopter), for example, during the heating of the house. Therefore, lumber is selected based on the following criteria:
- the lower the humidity level, the better, you can take it straight from the dryer;
- timber or board should be smooth, surfaces without significant defects, cracks and delaminations.
Sheets (plates) OSB

These so-called OSB boards complete the construction of the subfloor. Subsequently, OSB panels will serve as the final basis for the flooring. Translated into Russian, OSB translates as OSB - oriented particle board. The material itself is a board pressed from sawdust.

Over the past 5 years, OSB boards have become increasingly used in the decoration of walls and floors and are considered a fairly good basis for almost all types of finishing materials.

The main advantages of OSB boards:
- high moisture resistance;
– high mechanical strength;
- the material is easy to install.

One sheet of OSB with dimensions of 1250 by 2500 mm and a thickness of 12 mm will cost you about 700 rubles. Many Russian manufacturers sell OSB boards for less than 500 rubles a piece. You should not lean towards a cheaper option, it is cheap OSB panels that have received bad reviews due to low level environmental safety.
We figured out the materials, now we will find out what tool you will need to install the subfloor. Prepare or buy the following tool with which you can simplify your work as much as possible:

- a hammer;
- electric jigsaw;
- a hacksaw or electric saw;
- roulette;
- level 1.5 meters long;
- stationery knife;
- nails 50-100 mm long.

Stages of subfloor construction

Let's first figure out how to properly position the lags. Before we figure out the correct location of the lag, let's go back a little to the past. It is advisable to take care of the floor arrangement even before the construction of the main walls of the house, that is, immediately after preparing the foundation. After all, then it will be impossible to fix something in the location of the lag.

First, all the bars (for the first floor) are treated with a special solution (antiseptic) against mold and decay. The fact is that the logs are located near the ground, under the house and will always be exposed to a humid environment.

After laying the beams, check that they do not touch the ground (the distance from the bottom of the beam to the ground must be at least 20 cm). That is why all the space inside the foundation is always cleared in advance.

So, we place the bars perpendicular to the direction of the longest side of the future room with a step of 80-100 cm. The more often you keep the step, the less the floor will wobble and play, but this will require more building materials, respectively, and costs.
We have all the bars with a “rib” to increase the rigidity of the floor and make it as high as possible from the ground level. Agree a room on the first floor with too low windows - not the best way. We have all the logs, strictly in a horizontal position, checking their level from the edges, in the middle and between adjacent bars. If necessary, the edge of the beam can be raised with cement mortar.

The bars should rest with their edges on almost the entire width of the foundation, and their ends should be smeared with cement mortar or closed from the street. It is not necessary to specially fix the logs to the foundation - we just lay them, but so that they stably adhere to the surface of the foundation and do not stagger.

All boards, even before the walls are erected, it is advisable to lay them out on logs and cover them with the same anti-mold solution. You can also adjust them to size and cut a little too long boards, so that later, indoors, it would be more convenient to work with them.

Finally, we make the base of the floor after the erection of the walls. We measure all the boards so that there is a gap of 3-5 mm from the end between the wall and the board. This gap is needed so that the board does not rest against the walls during the shrinkage of the house. We lay the boards perpendicular to the direction of the lag.

We nail each board with nails “weaving”, through one or two logs. You should not hammer three nails into each beam - this will not win you anything. Boards, just do not press hard against each other. The first board lies with an indent of 3-5 mm from the wall, the last one is adjusted in size. You may need to adjust the last board and cut it lengthwise.


For floor insulation we use bars and basalt insulation. To insulate the floor, it is necessary to build a kind of frame in the form of a lattice of bars 50 by 50 mm. In the cells of this frame you will lay a heater with a thickness of 50-60 mm. The insulation in our case comes with plates, but if you don’t like it so much, you can insulate it with soft wool, just keep in mind that for the same soundproofing effect as from plates, you will need twice as much soft wool. For example, if you open a wooden floor in a Soviet apartment, you will see a similar grating, and in rare cases, even with a heater.

The bars must be distributed in increments equal to: the width of the OSB board divided by two, that is, approximately 620-630 mm. Bars are also laid across, here you determine the step at your discretion.

Try to put all the bars in a horizontal level. This can be achieved with small wooden wedges. Wedges are not difficult to make yourself.
Important! We nail the bars to the boards with nails, as in the previous case.
We lay the insulation in small rectangles, cutting out right size stationery knife.
Important! When working with insulation, be sure to wear goggles and a mask.

A small digression.
There is another pretty good way to insulate the floor. Although it is used mainly for warming the floor of the second floor, it is also suitable for the first floor. Here, the insulation is placed in the space between the lags. In order for the insulation to hold, boards 80-100 cm long are nailed to the lags from below, you see, it’s not very convenient. Moreover, the boards should be tried to be nailed tightly to each other so that the insulation does not crumble over time and does not fall to the ground inside the foundation. However, in this case, you can lay the insulation in a thicker layer, and the floor will be better insulated as a result. With this method of insulation, the device of bars 50 by 50 mm will not be mandatory.

Draft floors on wooden beams are widely used architectural elements in building construction. Depending on the specific location and features of buildings, they perform various functions and differ in the technology of arrangement.

Draft floors are used for the following purposes.

The manufacturing technology of rough floors largely depends on their specific purpose.

Design features of subfloors

Features of the manufacture of draft floors take into account the methods of fastening beams or floor logs. Beams can be installed on different structures.

Table. Structures on which beams can be installed.

Design name	Brief characteristics
	This option is used during the construction of wooden log cabins or panel houses. On the columnar foundations load-bearing elements of the floor of the first floor are mounted. Due to the fact that the lower surface of the beams rests on the foundation, the fastening of the draft floors can only be on the cranial timber. They are fixed to the side surface of the log or beams. Except for those cases when the beams are made of round timber and do not have flat side surfaces. The second option is the installation of subfloors on top of the beams for bearing base finishing floor coverings.
	Draft floors are made on logs, fixed to the side cranial bars or upper surfaces. A waterproofing barrier is used between the slabs and beams.
	The ends of the beams lie on the foundation strip or the lower crowns of the log house. The draft floor can be installed both on the side surfaces and above or below the beams.

It must be borne in mind that the fastening of the draft floors on the cranial beam reduces the thickness of the insulation layer. If the width of the beams or lag is less than 15 cm, then it is undesirable to use this option. The fact is that the recommended minimum thickness of the insulation is more than 10 cm, with a decrease in this indicator, the effectiveness of insulation is significantly reduced.

Beams - supporting elements for the construction of a floor or ceiling, must withstand the maximum design loads, have a margin of safety. Depending on the purpose and operating conditions of the premises, the thickness of the beams and the distance between them are selected. As materials, bars with dimensions of 50 × 50 mm or more or boards with parameters from 50 × 150 mm can be used. On lumber with even surfaces, the subfloor can be attached from the bottom, side or top, on round beams - only from the bottom or top.

Table. What elements does a classic draft floor consist of.

Element name	Purpose and description
	The main bearing element, perceives all static and dynamic efforts. In each individual case, individual calculations are made for linear parameters and distance steps. They can be supported on posts, foundation strip, floor slab, facade walls or load-bearing interior partitions.
	Size - approximately 20 × 30 mm, fixed to the side surfaces of the beams, used for laying subfloor boards.
	Waterproofing is laid on the subfloor, which serves as the basis for the finishing floor. Vapor barrier is used to protect insulation from increasing relative humidity, it is used on the first floors or ceilings.

Depending on the specific placement and purpose of the subfloors, the listed elements may be added or excluded. We will look at some of the most commonly used types of subfloors.

Draft floor in a log house on beams

Beams should be thoroughly soaked with an antiseptic, preferably at least twice. The ends may lie on strip foundation or bar, between concrete and wooden structures two layers of roofing felt waterproofing are required. The upper and lower planes of the beams were hewn with an axe, the side surfaces were sanded. The subfloor will be made from sheets of moisture-resistant OSB approximately 1 cm thick. Keep in mind that the final thickness of the slab should be selected taking into account the distance between the beams. The main selection criterion is that the sheets should not bend under their own weight. Cheaper materials can also be used: unedged sanded boards of the third grade, used lumber, pieces of plywood, etc.

Practical advice! If floor insulation is planned, it is recommended to keep the distance between the beams within 55 cm. The fact is that pressed or rolled wool has a standard width of 60 cm, due to this distance between the beams, the insulation will be pressed tightly against the side surfaces, and this greatly increases efficiency insulation. In addition, mineral wool does not have to be cut, which speeds up construction work and minimizes the amount of unproductive waste of expensive material.

Step 1. Set the beams in place at a given distance, check the position of the top surfaces - they should all lie on the same level. To check, it is better to use a rope. Stretch it between the two extreme beams and adjust the rest to this level. To fit, it is better to cut off excess height, if this is difficult to do, then you can use linings. Professional builders do not recommend laying wooden wedges, over time they will shrink. Much better to use plastic or metal. Level check the horizontal position of the beams.

Step 2 Remove the beam, unscrew from the square. In the future, the element must be installed in the same place, otherwise the linearity of the finished floor may be disturbed, unpleasant squeaks will appear when walking. Turn it over with the bottom plane up, put it in an empty place on the foundation.

Step 3 From OSB boards, cut strips 5–6 cm wide more than the width of the bottom of the beam. The length does not matter, if necessary, the strips can be joined.

Practical advice! In order to save material, in the lower part of the timber, non-solid strips can be screwed into squares. The distance between them is 30–50 cm. The subfloor does not carry any load, the mass of heaters is negligible, there is no need to make strong shelves to install the subfloor.

Bars are stuffed at the bottom across the beams - one of the possible options

Step 4 Using an electric drill or screwdriver, fasten the strips to the beam. Use self-tapping screws that are at least one third longer than the thickness of the OSB board. Otherwise, the fixation will be fragile. Instead of self-tapping screws, you can use ordinary nails of the appropriate size.

Step 5 Do the same with all remaining beams. Unscrew them in turn, fix the OSB strips and install them in their original place.

Step 6 Cut the OSB boards to the width of the subfloor. If you have precisely maintained the distances between the beams, then you can immediately prepare all the elements. If for some reason the distances between the beams are not the same, then each strip will have to be measured separately.

Step 7 Lay the sheets on the shelves. No need to strive total absence gaps, the draft floor for insulation does not require precise dimensions.

Practical advice! To make work easier, cut the sheets 1-2 cm narrower than the distance between the shelves. The fact is that the beam on the sides has bulges that narrow the clearance, due to a slight decrease in the width of the sheets, it is much easier to install them in place. Another plus of reducing the width is a compensating gap. OSB boards change their linear dimensions quite significantly during changes in relative humidity. If there are no compensating gaps, then the sheets may swell. For a subfloor, this is not critical, but swelling indicates a low qualification of builders.

Step 8 To reduce heat loss, you can blow out all the cracks with mounting foam.

On this, the manufacture of the subfloor is completed, you can begin laying the insulation. How to do it?

Step 1. Put a vapor barrier on the beams and the subfloor, do not pull it too hard, fasten it to the tree with a stapler. For vapor barrier, you can use expensive modern non-woven materials or ordinary cheap plastic film. There is no difference in efficiency, but the price may differ by an order of magnitude. Vapor barrier is a must, do not neglect it. The fact is that mineral wool reacts extremely negatively to an increase in humidity. With an increase in the index, the thermal conductivity increases exponentially, which sharply reduces the effectiveness of thermal insulation. Another operational disadvantage is that the material dries for a long time. This means that wet wool will have a long contact with wooden structures. Such adverse conditions significantly reduce the life of lumber.

Important! Never store insulation open areas. On suspicion of high humidity dry the material thoroughly, use only dry cotton wool.

Step 2 Lay the first layer on the subfloor mineral wool 5 cm thick. Squeeze the edges tightly, do not allow cracks to form. Pressed mineral wool is slightly compressed and has elasticity, which allows it to occupy the most convenient place.

Step 3 Lay the second layer of insulation with offset seams. To do this, first lay the piece remaining from the last piece of pressed mineral wool. Using the same algorithm, insulate the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe subfloor. The thickness of the floor insulation for the northern regions of the country should be at least 15 cm, for the middle climatic zone 10 cm is enough.

Practical recommendation! It is not necessary to insulate the floor with one thin layer of mineral wool, a thickness of 5 cm has almost no heat-saving effect. Especially on the first floor, where there is a permanent natural ventilation and the heat from the premises is quickly removed.

Step 4 Cover the insulation with waterproofing. To do this, you can use any special materials. The waterproofing is fixed with a stapler, the width of the overlaps is at least 10 cm, the ends of the material are hermetically sealed with adhesive tape.

Step 5 over waterproofing membrane nail slats 20 × 30 or the remaining strips of OSB onto the logs. Reiki will provide ventilation of the finished floor and will not allow mold to appear under it.

The underground must necessarily have ventilation openings that provide multiple air exchange. Do not forget to close the openings with metal bars that protect the underground from the penetration of rodents. Modern mineral wool has very thin fibers, rodents easily make passages in it and equip their nests. As a result, not only the thermal protection indicators worsen, but mice also appear in the premises.

On this, the black floor is completely ready, you can start laying the boards of the finishing floor.

Draft floor on the attic floor

It has several options, for example, we will consider the most complex of them. It is better to do the filing of the ceiling before the installation of the subfloor, but this condition is not necessary. When working with mineral wool insulation, it is recommended to use a respirator or mask to protect the respiratory organs, put on rubberized gloves on your hands.

As ceiling covering missing, nail the vapor barrier membrane underneath. Fasten it securely, it will hold the weight of the insulation for the first time.

Important! When performing further work in the attic for walking, make special passages, put long boards in these places. To improve security, it is recommended to temporarily fix them. The boards will somewhat complicate the process of laying the insulation, but they will minimize the risks of unpleasant situations.

Step 1. Start laying insulation in the space between the beams attic floor. We have already mentioned that when calculating the distance between the beams, the standard width of the materials for thermal insulation must be taken into account. Lay as tightly as possible, if there are two layers, then their joints should be shifted.

Important! When laying rolled mineral wool, do not allow sharp bends - in these places the thickness of the insulation is significantly reduced, a cold bridge is formed. And one more piece of advice. Do not press hard on the cotton, do not artificially reduce its thickness. Unlike pressed, roll does not withstand any loads.

Step 2 Install a wind and vapor barrier. Rolled mineral wool is easily blown through with drafts, and heat is removed along with the intake of fresh air. The membranes are fixed to the beams with a stapler. Professional builders do not recommend pulling the membranes strongly, it is desirable that they lie freely on top of the insulation. In the event of leaks, water will not enter the insulation through the holes made by the stapler brackets.

Step 3 Fasten the membrane along the beams with thin laths. Lay the subfloor boards on the slats. They can be screwed with screws or nailed.

Subfloor under laminate

This type of subfloor requires a more demanding attitude to the quality of the coating. If floors are made between floors, then insulation can be omitted. Warm air from the rooms on the first floor does not go outside, but heats the second floor. Due to this, the parameters of the microclimate of the rooms on the second floor are improved. Warming is done only on attic floors.

The subfloor serves as the base for laminate flooring and must meet three requirements.

1. Hardness. The thickness of the boards and the distance between the beams are selected in such a way that deformations of the planes are completely excluded under the maximum possible loads.
2. Humidity. The relative humidity of lumber should not exceed 20%. Before laying the boards, it is necessary to dry them in a heated room for several days. During this time, they will acquire natural moisture and will not change linear dimensions.
3. Evenness. The deviation in the height of the plane cannot exceed two millimeters per two meters of length. Otherwise, the laminate floor will start to emit very unpleasant sounds during walking, appearing due to the friction of the elements in the connecting locks. It is impossible to eliminate these sounds. You will have to completely dismantle the flooring, level the subfloor and only then lay the laminate again. The work is long and expensive, it is better to immediately pay attention to quality. For rough floors, only sawn timber passed through a double-sided thicknesser should be used. The final adjustment of the subfloor to the laminate can be done with a parquet machine or a hand planer. The choice of tool depends on total area coatings.

The evenness of the base should be checked with a long level or a rule, apply tools in various places on the subfloor and pay attention to the gaps. If deviations are found, the plane should be leveled with one of the tools. If the difference in height of the subfloor does not exceed a millimeter, then an unpleasant creak can disappear on its own after a few months of operation. During this time, the elements of the interlock will partially rub in, the abutting parts will reduce their thickness. Those that do not get used are slightly deformed, due to which the density of the interlock connection decreases. These changes will not affect the quality and durability of laminate flooring.

When fixing the subfloor under the laminate, you need to slightly sink the heads of nails or self-tapping screws into the boards. The fact is that it is even theoretically impossible to achieve a perfectly even fit of the boards to the beams. Over time, in places where the boards sag, the nails may come out of the beams a little, because of this, the hat rises above the plane of the boards. This is highly undesirable for laminate floors. They are laid on a special bedding, have a sealed waterproofing. Hats of hardware with sharp edges damage the membrane layer, the tightness of the waterproofing is broken. Moisture that has entered through the holes between the laminate and the subfloor causes the appearance of fungi and rot on the wood. It is impossible to see the problem in a timely manner, it is detected after the lumber has lost its original properties. As a result, complex special measures are required for elimination, sometimes it is necessary to change the supporting structures.

On a note! wooden beams should be able to move a little, never fix them in a stationary state. Today on sale there are special metal stops that allow the ends to move along the length.

And the last. by the most the best option for laying subfloors under laminate flooring, waterproof OSB boards or plywood are considered. Sheets big size, due to this, the number of joints is minimized, it is much easier to smooth out sharp differences in height. It is necessary to lay the slabs with damper gaps about 2-3 mm wide, which will compensate for the thermal expansion of the material. Otherwise, swelling of the laminate floor is likely, their elimination will require complete dismantling both top coat and leveling base.

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Video - Draft floor from OSB