This article discusses home-made machines and fixtures for the home workshop. Here are detailed features of the most popular and necessary DIY tools, as well as fixtures for the workshop or garage, step by step technologies their manufacture and other useful advice on this topic.
Homemade machines and fixtures for the home workshop: general information
Each owner of a garage or workshop, depending on his needs, selects the equipment himself. Many of them know how home-made machines and fixtures for garages are made, so they manage on your own when arranging the premises, adjusting already for themselves technical features structures.
So, when creating a metal locksmith workbench with your own hands, the drawings and dimensions of the product on them can be adjusted to the parameters of the room and other conditions. Even a small home workshop will need to allocate enough space to accommodate at least the construction of a universal folding workbench and a minimal set of tools. The required area for this is at least 3-5 m².
Manufacture of tool storage devices: shelves, racks
In fact, it is very difficult to achieve optimal working conditions. It is desirable that the size of the room be at least 6.5 m. To equip the workshop, you can make an extension to the house or garage. This decision will be the most profitable in any case.
Before you design a drawing of a folding workbench with your own hands, which has the most overall design (therefore, its dimensions are taken into account in the first place), it is worth deciding on some points:
- indicate what types of work will be performed in the workshop;
- determine the list of necessary tools and equipment.
By mounting the tool on the wall, you can significantly save useful space in the workshop. Shelves or racks are perfect for this. You can successfully arrange these structures, achieving the most rational distribution of the area.
In order to save space, you can get a special device for circular saw with their own hands, made on the basis of a conventional drill. Such universal machine can perform several functions at once, combining the possibilities:
- circular saw;
- grinding machine;
- grindstone;
- turning mini-machine for wood;
- cutting machine.
The working table can be combined with a vise for carpentry workbench and complete it drawers to store small tools.
DIY tool shelves: popular designs
Metal structures are more durable and reliable, while wooden structures are affordable.
There are several options for rational storage of tools:
- wall shelves;
- do-it-yourself tool racks;
- suspended ceiling shelves;
- Shelves-shields for hanging small tools.
Do-it-yourself tool shelf manufacturing technology (shield):
It remains only to fix the shelf-shield on the wall. To prevent the eyes from slipping off the anchors, it is recommended to fix them with special washers.
Making a carpentry workbench with your own hands: drawings, videos, technology
The following details must be present on the drawing of the carpentry workbench:
There are several modifications of workbenches:
- mobile;
- stationary;
- folding (universal).
Having familiarized yourself with the device of the carpentry workbench, you can begin to manufacture it.
Do-it-yourself technology and drawings of a carpentry workbench: how to make a simple design
Step-by-step construction technology:
- To make the cover of a wooden carpentry workbench, you will need to take thick boards. The size must be chosen so that as a result of their connection a shield with parameters of 0.7x2 m is obtained (the length can be less than 2 m). Long nails should be used as fasteners, which must be hammered from the front side and bent from the inside.
- You can finish the cover by fixing a bar with a section of 50x50 mm along its lower perimeter.
- Depending on the size of the carpentry workbench (its cover), vertical supports are located. For their manufacture, a bar is taken (12x12x130 cm). At this stage, it is necessary to take into account the height of the working surface, because it should be comfortable. The upper limit of the support should be at the level of the lowered hands. Subsequently, due to the installation of the cover, about 8-10 cm will be added to this indicator. The markings for the installation of the bars should be applied to the ground and these elements should be dug to a depth of 0.2-0.35 m.
- Next, do-it-yourself installation of the frame part and the cover of the workbench made of wood is carried out. Installed support bars must be connected in pairs. For this, wide boards are used, fixed at a height of 0.2-0.4 m with long self-tapping screws. At the ends of the supports, a cover is fixed using the same fasteners.
Manufacturing technology of a universal wooden workbench with your own hands
Despite the fact that the technology for creating this design is in many ways similar to the previous version, for the manufacture of a composite carpentry workbench, drawings with dimensions will be required without fail. But in this case, bolts are used instead of self-tapping screws.
In addition, in a folding universal workbench with your own hands, you can install drawers for storing tools.
Do-it-yourself folding workbench manufacturing technology:
Do-it-yourself carpentry vise design for a workbench
Usually workbenches are equipped with a vise. Many owners of garage workshops know how to make such a device with their own hands. For homemade design you will need special studs. Such fasteners are sold in hardware stores.
To work, you will need a special screw pin. This threaded part is the main active component of the structure. The minimum pin diameter is 2 cm, the cutting length is 15 cm. The longer this part is, the wider the vise can be spread. If these dimensional parameters are taken into account in the drawings of the vise with your own hands, you can get a design that is bred by almost 8 cm.
The jaws of the tool are made from a pair of boards. One part of the part will be fixed. To make it, you need to take pine. The second part measuring 2x1.8x50 cm will move. In each of these boards, you need to make a screw hole with a drill. Using a drill with a diameter of 1 cm, holes for studs are formed in all boards at the same time. To prevent the holes from moving relative to each other, you can connect them with nails.
After all the holes are made, the screw and all the studs are inserted into them along with the washer and nut.
Additionally, you can use the video material below to create a vise with your own hands.
Making a locksmith workbench with your own hands: how to make a metal structure
For locksmith work, it is better to make a metal workbench with your own hands, because a wooden workbench is not suitable for this. The thing is, wood is not that strong. In addition, when working with metal blanks, a countertop made of this material will be constantly damaged and will quickly become unusable.
In the general drawing of a do-it-yourself locksmith workbench, five main structural components can be distinguished:
- For longitudinal rigidity of the product, horizontal beams (3 pcs.) 6x4 cm in size are used. Length - slightly more than 2 m.
- Rack-mounted small-sized beams (9 pcs.) Made of profiled pipes 6x4 cm in size. They are used to assemble the frame part of the pedestals. In the corner area there are weld-on spacers made of steel strips. Due to all these elements, the frame is rigid and very durable.
- Rack beams (4 pcs.) 9-10 cm long (section 6x4 cm). To do this, it is better to use metal profile pipes with thick walls (more than 2 mm).
- Corner No. 50 (4 pcs.), Which will be used as vertical racks. The height of these elements is 1.7-2 m. Working tools will be attached here.
Locksmith workbench dimensions:
Do-it-yourself workbench manufacturing technology: how to assemble
Making a universal workbench with your own hands begins with assembling the frame. To do this, take a couple of short and a couple of long beams. During the welding process, these elements may be subjected to twisting.
To prevent this, you must:
Then the rear vertically arranged racks and the rear beam (long, one of three) are attached. Be sure to check how evenly in relation to each other they are placed. If there are any deviations, the beams can be carefully bent with a hammer. At the end, the rest of the rack elements are assembled with a vertical arrangement, as well as elements that provide rigidity.
When the frame is ready, corners can be welded to it, designed to strengthen the structure. The table top is made up of wooden planks. They must first be impregnated with a fire-resistant liquid. Then a sheet of metal is laid on top.
A plywood shield for tools can be attached to the vertical rack elements. The same material is used to sew up cabinets. For boxes, you can use metal boxes or make wooden structures.
You can use it in order to understand in more detail the technology of making a workbench with your own hands, the video, which is posted below:
Features of creating a wood lathe for a home workshop
In the technology of manufacturing a lathe for wood with your own hands, the frame occupies a special place. The operation of other parts, as well as the stability of the entire structure, directly depends on this part. It can be metal or wood.
To create a wood lathe with your own hands, you can use the old manual frezer which is no longer needed. This tool is placed on a plywood platform 1.2 cm thick and 20x50 cm in size. First, you need to make holes in it for the cutter and fasteners. Stops from the bars will also be mounted here. They are necessary in order for the cutter to be in a fixed state. The router itself is fastened with two nails between the clamps.
In fact, it is quite easy to make a copying design of a home-made wood lathe with your own hands - there are enough video materials on the network.
The main parts of the simplest lathe (on the left - only with the leading center, on the right - with the leading and driven centers): 1 - frame; 2 - drive; 3 - leading center; 4 - blank; 5 - stop for the cutter; 6 - tailstock; 7 - driven center (center-bolt); a - height
An example of a do-it-yourself homemade wood lathe
For the base, it is better to take a steel profile with thick walls. To make the design reliable, it is recommended to use two supports. A bed will be installed on top of them. To fasten parts, a groove type of connection is used. First you need to make support platforms designed for headstocks (rear and front).
The list of parts for a wood lathe (how to assemble the structure yourself based on this list is easy to understand):
As auxiliary information, you can use a video that reflects this process in detail to assemble a wood lathe with your own hands.
The second example of a do-it-yourself woodworking lathe
An alternative solution would be to make the design of the simplest mini-lathe for wood with your own hands based on an electric drill. This example of technology can be used as a test before building a more serious tool.
This type of machine is suitable for processing small wood blanks. The material for the bed can serve as bars of wood. The tailstock can be replaced with a combination of a shaft mounted on a thrust bearing. To fix the workpiece, you will need to get the appropriate nozzle on the drill.
This design has its drawbacks, they are associated with:
- high probability that there will be errors in milling;
- low level of reliability;
- the inability to process large-sized wooden blanks.
But you should not refuse this option, because it is the basis of technologies for creating more advanced and complex turning tools. To correctly calculate the design, determine for yourself the necessary operational properties and specifications.
The principle of making cutters for a wood lathe
The technology in this case is complicated only the right choice workpieces, which must not only have the level of hardness of the cutting edge that meets the requirements, but also be correctly installed in the retainer - holder.
On the machine, it is possible to provide for the possibility of changing cutters. To do this, a special modification of the housing is made with the necessary mounting parts. These elements must be strong enough to withstand the loads during operation and at the same time maintain the original location of the edge part.
When the cutter is made, it is sharpened, and the cutting edge is hardened. After the cutting part has become hot, the cutter must be dipped in engine oil. With the help of slow hardening technology, the surface of the product can be made as hard as possible. In this case, the heated billet should cool down in a natural mode.
Do-it-yourself knife sharpeners: drawings and recommendations
To make a sharpener from an engine from a washing machine with your own hands, you can limit yourself to a motor from an old Soviet design, for example, CMP-1.5 or Riga-17. A power of 200 watts will be enough, although you can increase this figure to 400 watts by choosing a different engine option.
List of parts required for grinding machine do-it-yourself, includes:
- tube (to carve a flange);
- nut for fixing the stone on the pulley;
- metal for the manufacture of a protective cover for a sharpener with your own hands (thickness 2, -2.5 mm);
- grinding stone;
- electrical cable cord having a plug;
- starting device;
- a corner made of metal or a bar of wood (for the bed).
The flange diameter must match the hub dimensions on the motor. In addition, a grindstone will be put on this part. On the one hand, this element is carved. The indent should be equal to the thickness of the circle multiplied by 2. The thread is applied with a tap. On the other hand, the flange must be pressed onto the motor shaft by heating. Fixation is carried out by bolting or welding.
The working winding of the motor is connected to the cable. It has a resistance of 12 ohms, which can be calculated using a multimeter. The starting winding for a do-it-yourself knife sharpener will have 30 ohms. Then the bed is made. It is recommended to take a metal corner for her.
Some people need a chainsaw chain sharpener. You can make such a design with your own hands from a bed with 3 supports, two spindles, a stepper motor (2 kW) and pipes used as holders.
Instructions for creating a stationary circular saw with your own hands
Creating a table for a hand-held circular saw with your own hands is the most important step in creating a machine, since this design will accommodate the main parts of the equipment in the form of:
- power unit;
- control block;
- cutting component;
- other components.
The base frame on the table for hand tools acts as a do-it-yourself guide for a circular saw. It controls the direction in which the cut is made and fixes the workpiece.
A sawmill is a modification of a circular saw. The only difference is that the disc is placed at the bottom. The do-it-yourself function of the bed is assigned to the design of the table for a circular saw. A power unit, a block, a fixing disk and a control system are also installed here.
At the design stage for a circular saw with your own hands drawings, some factors should be taken into account:
How to make a circular saw from a grinder with your own hands
First, a tabletop is made of sheet material. Marking is applied to it in accordance with the size of the toolkit. According to this markup, cutouts are made for installing the saw.
For a do-it-yourself circular saw machine, you will need legs. They are mounted taking into account the dimensions of the tabletop made of wooden beams with a section of 4x4 cm. The use of steel corners is allowed. To provide additional stability, stiffeners should be installed between the supports. A control unit is placed next to the workplace. Do not refuse to install RCDs and devices that protect the engine from overloads.
Variant of a circular saw from a drill. Layout scheme: 1 - drive (electric drill); 2 - desktop (duralumin, sheet s5); 3 - circular saw; 4 - rack (St3, strip 20? 5, 4 pcs.); 5 - support holder of the mandrel shaft; 6 - mandrel; 7-holder of an electric drill; 8 - base plate (furniture chipboard, s30)
The technology of creating a cutting machine for wood
Manufacturing technology of a homemade cutting machine:
It remains to mount the motor on the short arm of the rocker arm. A cutting element is placed on the long arm. The shaft and motor are connected by a belt drive. For the countertop, you can use a sheet of metal, a planed board.
Assembling a drilling machine with your own hands: video how to make a design, recommendations
A good drawing of a drilling machine from a drill with your own hands is the main condition for acquiring the necessary tools. To create such a machine, you do not need to use special materials and buy additional components.
Components for the design of a homemade drilling machine with your own hands:
- bed (base);
- rotary mechanism (drill);
- supply device;
- vertically located stand for fixing the drill.
In mastering the technology of manufacturing a drilling machine from a drill with your own hands, video material can be of invaluable assistance.
A guide to creating a drilling machine with your own hands (how to make the simplest design):
For a do-it-yourself drilling mini-machine, a rotary tool feed mechanism is required. The classic design scheme involves the use of a spring and a lever. The spring is fixed between the block and the rack.
There are many devices for sharpening drills with your own hands, video material will help you understand this topic.
Features of do-it-yourself CNC milling machines
The software is considered an important component in a do-it-yourself CNC wood router. Drawings of a conventional design, subject to this condition, should include additional elements under it:
- LPT port;
- CNC block.
Assembling a wood milling machine for a home workshop
At the first stage, do-it-yourself drawings are drawn up for a wood milling machine, which include information on the placement of all structural components, their dimensions, as well as methods of fixation.
Next, a support frame is assembled from pipes pre-cut into parts of the required size. For bonding, you need to use a welding machine. Then dimensional control is performed in order to proceed with the manufacture of the working surface.
You need to act within the framework of the following scheme:
Be sure to test the machine before work. The included router should not vibrate too much. To compensate for this shortcoming, it is recommended to additionally install stiffeners.
Assembling a milling machine for metal with your own hands
Step-by-step instructions for making a homemade metal milling machine:
Scheme of the device of the milling machine (a - general form, b - kinematic diagram): 1, 5 - guide rulers; 2 - gear sector; 3 - cutter; 4 - fence; 6 - control panel; 7 - additional spindle support; 8 - bracket; 9 - arm lifting handwheel; 10 - belt tension handwheel; 11 - electric motor; 12 - spindle; 13 - handwheel for adjusting the spindle in height; 14 - bed; 15 - spindle speed switch; 16 - switch; 17 - table
After that, you need to attach a cone (Morse 2) to the spindle and install a collet or drill chuck on it.
Features of making a thicknessing machine with your own hands
Do-it-yourself planer drawings with complex design involve the use of expensive components:
- bearings with increased wear resistance;
- rolled steel sheets;
- gears;
- pulleys;
- powerful electric motor.
As a result, the cost of making a homemade thickness gauge increases significantly. For this reason, many try to limit themselves to the simplest design.
Instructions for a homemade thicknessing machine for wood:
| Structural element | Data |
| bed | Frames (2 pcs.), made using welding on the basis of a corner (4-5 cm). The frames are connected by studs (grinded 6-sided - 3.2 cm). |
| broach | Rubber rollers of squeezing type from washing machine. They are machined to the size of the bearings and put on an axle with a diameter of 2 cm. It operates due to rotational manual movements. |
| Table | The polished board is attached to the frame with a bolted connection, the heads must be countersunk. Boards need to be treated with oil (already used). |
| Engine | for 3 phases, power - 5.5 kW, rotational speed - 5000 rpm. |
| Protective cover | Made of tin (6 mm) put on over a frame corner (20 mm). |
Assembling a thickness gauge from an electric planer with your own hands
To create a home-made thicknessing machine, you need to place a planer on a bar, fix it with a device such as clamps, while not forgetting to leave a gap.
The scheme for making a thickness gauge from a planer with your own hands is very simple:
- the support beam is fixed on a convenient surface;
- the required gap size is selected by adding layers of plywood;
- on the base obtained, the construction of a thickness gauge from an electric planer is fastened with clamps.
Two clamps hold the base on the table, the other two hold the planer. After making sure that this mount is reliable, you can start using the tool.
The scheme for creating a grinding machine for wood with your own hands
- The optimum width of the sanding belt is 20 cm.
- The emery cloth of the tape is cut into strips.
- The sticker of the abrasive tape is carried out end-to-end.
- To strengthen the seam, you need to put a dense material under the bottom.
- It is not recommended to use low-quality glue, as it will cause the material to tear along the seam.
- The diameter of the tape roller in the center should be 2-3 mm wider than at the edges.
- To prevent the tape from slipping, it is recommended to wind it with thin rubber (bicycle wheel).
Calibrating - grinding machines for wood belong to the group of drum structures. This category is broad and includes many types of equipment.
For the manufacture of a drum grinder for wood with your own hands, you can choose the following designs:
- surface grinding - the workpiece is processed within the same plane;
- planetary - with its help, a flat plane is formed on the workpiece;
- circular grinding - with its help, cylindrical workpieces are processed.
From the video below, you can learn how to make a grinding type machine with your own hands.
Do-it-yourself wood planer operating rules
In the designs of a self-made planer, it is very important to correctly set the equipment setting so that the errors do not exceed the permitted values:
- perpendicular - maximum 0.1 mm / cm;
- plane - 0.15mm / m.
You can familiarize yourself with the technology of making a jointer with your own hands using the video.
If, during operation, the effect of mossiness or scorching appears on the treated surface, then the cutting elements have become dull. To make the processing of parts with dimensions less than 3x40 cm more comfortable, they must be held with the help of pushers.
The curved surface of the workpiece after the completed processing indicates that the correct placement of the knives and the working surface is violated. These elements need to be set again.
All of these machines can be useful for home repairs or basic repairs. Therefore, their presence in the home workshop will be useful. Regardless of what the equipment of the garage will be, all machines require a careful and attentive attitude. When working, never forget about safety.
We will send the material to you by e-mail
A home workshop is far from uncommon in the yard of any diligent owner. When it comes to setting up, there are some features that must be observed. Our review will help you choose and make home-made machines and fixtures for your home workshop, as well as understand the technology of their manufacture. Each owner can independently choose the necessary equipment. And if you know the technical features of the structures, then you can equip the room on your own.When arranging equipment, it is important to plan for a sufficient amount of space. It is better if the workshop is equipped in a separate room.
From functional arrangement home workshop depends on the quality of work and comfortable working conditions
Before choosing a set of homemade machines, it is necessary to create optimal working conditions. In this case, the size of the room must be at least 6 square meters. m. You can attach an additional room to the garage or to the house.It is important to decide what types of work you will carry out, as well as draw up a list of equipment and necessary tools.
Storage of some types of tools is most conveniently organized on the wall. This will save space. It is also convenient to use shelves.To save usable space, it is worth making universal fixtures that combine several functions. The table should be equipped with drawers, and also used as a carpentry workbench.
When choosing homemade machines and fixtures for a home workshop, you can pick up mini equipment different types. For working with metals, the following options are used:
- grinding equipment used for processing metal surfaces: grinding, polishing and sharpening. For its manufacture, a minimum number of components and parts is required. The equipment includes grindstones and an electric motor. For the stability of the fixture, mounting elements are used;
- milling machine used for drilling holes. In the manufacture of a similar design of the lifting mechanism, a steering rack is used. In addition, an angle milling machine device can also be installed.
For wood processing, various homemade tools and do-it-yourself tools are used. The most commonly used types are cutting, turning and grinding. With their help, you can perform all kinds of work at home. The following equipment is used for wood processing:
- cutting machines. The simplest device is electric or. Such units can be disk, tape, or a sawmill from a chainsaw. In the manufacture of home-made equipment, it is worth considering the diameter of the disk, as well as the width of the cutting part;
- grinding device. The simplest option is made from a stable table, a vertical grinding shaft and an electric motor. An abrasive belt is used, which is used to process the ends of wood blanks.
Related article:
Woodworking machines for the home workshop. Specialized equipment with electric drive greatly simplifies the processing of wood blanks. But its acquisition is associated with significant investments. To solve this problem successfully, you should carefully study the materials of this article.
DIY tool shelves: popular designs and manufacturing
It is worth noting the following options for storing tools:
- racks;
- hanging shelves;
- wall structures;
- shelves in the form of shields, on which you can fix small tools.
Do-it-yourself shield shelf for a tool can be done like this:
- cut a shield out of plywood and mark out the places where the shelves will be installed;
- make shelves with side walls, the length of which should correspond to the length of the shield;
- shelves are fixed on the shield with self-tapping screws;
- hooks are mounted, which are equipped with a special thread;
- brackets are installed on the back of the shield.
For your information! Functional shield shelves. Hooks or special holders can be attached to them. An additional lamp can be hung over a similar design. In this case, you can use a small light bulb.
Do-it-yourself carpentry workbench design: drawings, video
Let's start learning useful tools for household with your own hands from the workbench. This useful unit comes in the following varieties: stationary, mobile and folding.
Remember that a do-it-yourself folding workbench drawing should contain the following details:
- a work surface, to create which you need a board with a thickness of at least 6 cm. In this case, hornbeam, beech or oak are used. You can use boards painted with drying oil;
- a vise design is mounted on the top cover;
- the supporting legs of the workbench are made of pine and linden. Between them, longitudinal connecting beams are placed for the stability of the entire structure;
- tool shelves are mounted under the workbench.
How to make a simple workbench, you can see in this video:
Do-it-yourself technology and drawings of a carpentry workbench: a simple design
To make such a fixture, you will need drawings with the dimensions of a carpentry workbench.
In this photo you can see how the folding structure is made.
Consider how you can build such a device:
- to make a cover you will need thick boards. The dimensions of the shield should be 0.7 * 2 meters. For fasteners, long nails are used;
- the roof is finished with;
- depending on the dimensions of the carpentry workbench, vertical supports are used;
- the height of the working surface of the do-it-yourself carpentry workshop is determined. The markings for the bars are applied on the ground where these elements are buried;
- the workbench cover is being installed. The support bars are attached in pairs. In this case, long ones are used.
Features of creating and designing a wooden workbench with your own hands
you can buy wooden workbench or do it yourself. Additionally, the design can be equipped with drawers. So, consider the manufacturing technology:
- vertical supports are fixed with horizontal jumpers. Grooves are made in them for connecting fittings. In this case, a chisel and a hammer can be used;
- when the jumpers are installed at the desired level, holes are made in the bars on the support. Then the bolt is mounted, after which the elements are pulled together;
- horizontal jumpers are installed in two pieces on each side. Parts under the worktop will be required for mounting above the worktop;
- bolts are used to secure the work surface. Holes for fasteners are drilled on the table top. The bolts are mounted so that the bolts are recessed.
You can easily do it at home. In this case, you will need an emery cloth of a sanding belt. Her sticker is carried out end-to-end. To strengthen the seam, it is necessary to put a dense material under the bottom. In this case, do not use low-quality glue.
The diameter of the belt roll should be a few mm wider at the center than at the edge. To prevent the tape from slipping, it is necessary to make a winding of thin rubber.For the manufacture of grinding devices, you can choose designs such as planetary, cylindrical and surface grinding.
Do-it-yourself carpentry vise manufacturing technology for a workbench
For workbenches, do-it-yourself vices are often made at home. The video allows you to see this process:
To make such a design, special studs will be required.To work, you need a screw pin with a thread. You also need to prepare a couple of boards. One element will be fixed and the other will move. In the manufacture, it is imperative to use do-it-yourself vise drawings. In each of the boards, it is necessary to make holes for the studs, which are connected with nails. Then screws and nuts with washers are inserted into them. When designing a homemade vise with your own hands, you should use instructions and ready-made schemes.
Useful information! If you make the studs movable, then you can make workpieces of various sizes.
Creating a metal locksmith workbench with your own hands: drawings
Frequent work with metals best solution will be the creation of a metal workbench with your own hands. Wood material is not suitable for such purposes, since during processing metal products will often be damaged.
It is worth noting the following elements of such a device:
- horizontal jumpers are used to provide longitudinal rigidity;
- small rack beams are made from profiled pipes. They are used to assemble the frame part of the pipes. In the corner zone there are weld-on struts, which are made of steel strips;
- for rack beams, profile pipes with a wall thickness of 3-4 mm are used;
- corner No. 50 is necessary for the racks on which the tools are attached.
To create high-quality seams, it is necessary to use a carbon dioxide semiautomatic device, as well as a pulse-type welding machine.
The assembly of the universal device begins with the frame. For this, long and short beams are welded. To prevent them from twisting together, follow these steps:
After that, the rear beam and vertical racks are mounted. It is important to check how evenly they are located in relation to each other. If there are any deviations, then they can be bent with a hammer. When the frame is ready, special corners are attached to it to strengthen the structure. The tabletop is made of wooden boards, which are impregnated with a fire-resistant liquid. A steel sheet is laid on top.A shield made of is attached to the vertical rack-mount parts. The same material is used for sheathing cabinets.
Table 1. Making a metal bench workbench with your own hands
| Image | Installation steps |
|---|---|
 | A carbon dioxide semiautomatic device is used for welding the structure. |
 | Creation of the structure frame. For welding, all parts must be laid out on a flat surface. The docking nodes of the beginning are simply tacked, and then all the seams are boiled. Rear racks and a beam are welded to the frame. |
 | After welding all the stiffeners, such a frame is obtained. |
 | Then a reinforcing corner is attached to the frame for fastening the table top. Before installation, the boards must be treated with a special fire-resistant compound. A sheet of metal is attached to the top. |
 | The side walls are finished with plywood shields, and wooden boxes are placed in the right pedestal. To protect the base, the surfaces are covered with various paints and varnishes. First, the primer is distributed, and then a special enamel is used. |
Do-it-yourself knife sharpening device: drawings and nuances
To make a sharpener from an engine with your own hands, you can take parts from old Soviet appliances. To build a grinding machine you will need the following parts:
- tube for turning flanges;
- grindstone;
- special nuts;
- steel elements for the construction of protective covers;
- cable lace;
- launcher;
- a block of wood or a metal corner.
The flange section must match the dimensions of the bushing. A grindstone will also be put on this element. A special thread will also be made on this part. In this case, the flange is pressed onto the motor shaft. Fastening is carried out by welding or bolting.
The working winding is fixed to the cable. At the same time, it has a resistance of 12 ohms, which can be calculated using a multimeter. A bed is also made, for which a metal corner is taken.
How to sharpen a drill for metal: do-it-yourself fixture
You can make a simple metal drill sharpening machine from ordinary fixtures. For this, an abrasive block is suitable.
At home, you can use the following equipment:
- you can sharpen the drill with an electric grinder. In this case, sharpening is performed from the edge. When using a sharpener, it is necessary to pay attention to the sharpening angle, to fixing the drill on the axis of rotation. Excess metal should be removed gradually. Finally, the edges are shaped into a cone;
- a grinder is used as a grinding machine with their own hands. For sharpening, the cutting tool is held in a vise. For this, the mounting angle is selected, and the disk is also mounted.
It should be borne in mind that the angle grinder is mounted on a flat surface. In this case, the disk should be located downwards. If the grinder is not fixed securely, it can damage the drill. Sharpening with a grinder is possible only for products with a small diameter. With the help of a grinding device, it is impossible to do fine-tuning. The edge of the shield is used to support the cutting tool.
You can also use the nozzle of a drill, which should be equipped with a grinding disc with sandpaper. To grind the elements with a drill, you need to find two flat surfaces.
Drilling machine for home workshop
You can make a drill fixture from a drill with your own hands. The drawings will help you understand the design. For such a design, you will need the following elements:
- base or bed;
- rotary device;
- a mechanism for providing feed;
- door rack.
Here are the main steps in the manufacture of a homemade drilling machine with your own hands:
To make a drilling machine, you need a rotary tool feed mechanism. Springs and a lever are used for the design. There are various devices for sharpening drills.
Do-it-yourself drilling machine assembly: dimensional drawings
Also, the design will require the manufacture of home-made vise for a drilling machine. The simplest device can be assembled from a drill, without a steering rack. To minimize vibration processes, it is necessary to build a more massive table. The rack and table are connected at right angles. In this case, the drill can be attached using clamps. A vise is mounted on the table surface.
Do-it-yourself garage press design
The design is designed to perform straightening work, pressing, bending sheet materials and for compression. Locksmith devices are characterized by a compact and simple design. Efforts from such a press can vary between 5-100 tons. For garage work, an indicator of 10-20 tons is enough.To make such a design, a manual drive is used. The hydraulic device contains two chambers with pistons.
Do-it-yourself press from a jack drawings
How to make a simple device can be seen on a special video of a press from a jack with your own hands:
A simple option is hydraulic, which can be constructed from a bottle jack.An important element is the bed, inside which the jack is placed. The platform is used as a reliable base. The upper surface is used to support the workpieces. The table should move freely up and down the frame.In this case, rigid springs are attached to the base on one side, and to the working surface on the other.
Here simple circuit assemblies:
- according to the drawings, the necessary elements are cut;
- the base is mounted by welding. In this case, the steel structure should resemble the letter P;
- a mobile table is made from a pipe and a channel;
- at the end, the springs are fixed.
Do-it-yourself technology of a cutting disc machine for metal
They will help to make the design of a cutting machine for metal with their own hands - drawings. From disk cutting machines, devices are made from a special frame or platform. The machine is equipped with elements that provide a strong fixation. A steel disc is used as cutting parts. To cut metal, a wheel coated in the form of an abrasive material is used.
The cutting parts are driven by an electric motor. Disc machines are equipped with pendulum, front and bottom components.
You can also watch the video below on how to do it. cutting machine from a grinder with their own hands:
The machine works like this:
- protective covers are made on which the drive belt is mounted;
- the engine is attached;
- a shaft is made on which the drive pulley and the cutting disc are fixed;
- a movable upper part of the structure is installed in the pendulum element;
- a shaft is mounted to fix the pendulum;
- a frame is made for mounting the machine;
- the pendulum is fixed on the frame;
Currently, you can buy ready-made machines, tools and equipment to equip your own workshop, but all this will be quite expensive. Homemade machines will help the master in his practical work, while not burdening his budget. Why buy something that you can do with your own hands, and even in relation to specific conditions.
How to use for home workshop?
Each owner chooses the equipment of his own workshop. It depends on the characteristics of the hobby, i.e. type of work and space. The minimum area of a home workshop in which it makes sense to place equipment is 3-4 m².
It can be located in a small room or on the balcony of an apartment, a separate building on its own plot or in a garage. Perfect option- This is a secluded room in which you can make noise without disturbing other people.
According to its purpose, a home workshop can be universal, i.e. to carry out any work that unexpectedly arose in everyday life, or to have a specific direction associated with the hobby of the master. Most often, workshops are equipped for working with wood, i.e. for carpentry. Quite often there is a need for metal processing (locksmith work) and car repair.
In general, the arrangement of a home workshop includes the following elements:
Structures for placing tools and materials (racks, shelves, cabinets);
- equipment for work (workbenches, work tables);
- machines for material processing;
- devices for mechanization of work, facilitation of labor, preparation of tools, etc.
It is necessary to place the equipment so that there is a free approach to it, safety precautions and fire regulations are observed, and minimal comfort is ensured.
Carpentry workbench
A joiner's workbench is a solid table with a work surface on which a joiner's vice (2 pieces) is fixed, clamps for fixing the workpiece when planing with a planer, places are provided for installing a router and other manual machines.
The height should ensure the convenience of work, taking into account the actual growth of the master. The length should be at least 1 m (usually 1.7-2 m), and the width should be 70-80 cm.
Instructions for making a carpentry workbench:
The working surface is made in the form of a shield with tightly fitted boards with a thickness of at least 55 mm. Best suited beech, oak, hornbeam. They should first be soaked with drying oil. Strengthening is achieved with a bar measuring 4-5 cm, which is attached around the entire perimeter of the shield.
Vertical table supports can be made from pine or linden. A bar measuring 12x12 or 15x15 cm is usually used, about 120-135 cm long. Support elements connected by horizontal jumpers from a wide board, fixed at a height of 20-30 cm from the floor.
Storage of tools and accessories is carried out on the shelves, which are located under the lid. It is better to make them in the form of cabinets with a door. Shields-shelves can be placed on the wall above the workbench.
A pair of homemade or factory carpentry vise is attached to the work surface
For a homemade vice, you will need a long screw rod with a diameter of at least 20 mm with a length of the threaded part of at least 14-16 cm, metal studs and wooden blocks.
Production is carried out in the following order:
A wooden block is cut out (possibly from pine) with a size of about 20x30 cm and a thickness of at least 5 cm, in which a screw hole is drilled in the center, and 2 holes for guide pins at the bottom. This first vise jaw is permanently attached to the work surface.
The second sponge is cut out from a similar board and has dimensions of 20x18 cm. This will be a movable element.
A screw pin is passed through the jaws. To exclude the displacement of elements, studs with a diameter of about 8-10 mm are fixed. A handle is installed on the screw rod.
How to do locksmith workbench from metal with your own hands?
To carry out locksmith work, you will need a metal workbench. Its standard size is: length 1.8-2.1 m, width - 0.7-0.8 m, height - 0.9-1.2 m. Production includes the following steps:
Assembling the frame of the workbench with longitudinal rigidity.
- Assembly and fixing of 2 pedestals in the form of a frame sheathed with a metal sheet.
- Installation of the working surface - a wooden shield sheathed on top with a metal sheet.
- Installation of a tool rack, which is attached to the back of the workbench and further strengthens it.
Rack beams - a profile pipe with a wall of at least 2 mm, 4x6 cm in size. You need - 4 pcs.;
- beams measuring 5x4 cm for the horizontal ligament of racks, providing longitudinal rigidity. Quantity - 3 pcs.;
- a profiled pipe (9 pcs) for the manufacture of a pedestal frame about 4x3 cm in size with a wall thickness of at least 1 mm .;
- corner 5x5 cm for vertical uprights of the rack 1.5-2 m high. For horizontal linking, you can use a corner 4x4 cm;
- a board for a countertop with a thickness of at least 5 cm;
- a metal sheet for the working surface with a thickness of at least 6-8 mm.
Features of creating a wood lathe
Homemade lathe for working with wooden blanks includes the following elements:
Bed. It must have sufficient strength. It is better to make it from a metal profile (pipe, corner), but it can also be made from wooden beam. It is important to securely fasten the frame to the floor of the workshop and weight the structure at the bottom.
- Headstock or clamping spindle. As this element of the machine, you can use the head from a high-power drill.
- Tailstock. In order to ensure the longitudinal feed of the workpiece, it is better to use a standard factory spindle with 3-4 jaws.
- Caliper or stop for incisors. It must provide reliable fastening and the ability to move towards the workpiece, which is provided by a screw rod.
- Tool table. On the frame, a working surface should be formed on which cutters and other tools can be laid out.
- Drive unit. To create torque, an electric motor with a rotation speed of 1500 rpm with a power of 250-400 W is used. You can use the engine from the washing machine. A belt drive is used as a transmission, for which pulleys of the right size are installed on the shafts.
Milling machines CNC for wood and metal
When milling wooden parts software allows you to significantly expand the capabilities of the machine and the quality of processing. To form it, elements such as the LPT port and the CNC unit are installed. To make a copy unit, you can use the carriages of an old dot matrix printer.
Assembling a wood router is carried out in the following order:
The tabletop is made of chipboard or plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm.
- A cut is made for the cutter and its installation.
- The drive, transmission and spindle of the machine are fixed.
- Stops and limiters are installed
Assembling a metal router requires a stronger base for the machine:
Installation of the column and bed in the shape of the letter "P". Elements are made of steel channel. In a U-shaped design, the jumper forms the base of the tool itself.
- The guide elements are made of steel angle and bolted to the column.
- Guide consoles are made of rectangular tube. A screw pin is inserted into them. The movement of the console is provided using a car jack to a height of up to 12-15 cm.
- The worktop is made of chipboard or plywood.
- A vise, guides from a metal corner, pin clamps are fixed on the tabletop.
- The rotating part is installed so that the shaft is vertical.
Any workshop owner, even if it does not have a separate room and is simply organized in a garage, strives to equip it with everything necessary for a comfortable, productive and, most importantly, quality work. That's just on a hand tool in our time, you can’t “leave” far. A great variety of power tools, various multifunctional or narrow-profile machines, and auxiliary equipment come to the rescue. There are no problems with the offer - the main difficulty is that high-quality products cost a lot of money, and not everyone can afford it.
But craftsmen find a way out by making such machines and devices on their own, some of which may well compete with factory models. Moreover, to create such equipment, quite affordable materials are used, often just gathering dust in the barn. And as drives, running power tools are widely used, usually available in any workshop.
In this publication, only some home-made machines and fixtures for the home workshop will be considered. It should be correctly understood that it is simply impossible to cover all the available variety of such equipment within the framework of one article. Here it is just right to allot such a topic in general a separate site. So basically a general overview will be given. But the manufacture of two models, which are very important, probably, for any workshop - a pendulum saw and a sharpening machine for cutting tools, we will consider step by step, with all the nuances, from the first sketches to testing.
The basis of the basics is a convenient workbench and organized storage of tools and accessories
The comfort of working in the workshop depends on many important conditions. If we take out the issues of heating, ventilation and lighting (these are topics for separate consideration), then the rational, convenient organization of the main workplace always comes to the fore.
We are talking about a workbench and a well-thought-out storage system for the tools, accessories, consumables and other small things necessary for work.
The workbench is selected or manufactured independently, depending on the main direction of work in the workshop.
Joiner's workbench "classic" execution
If the owner is more focused on woodworking, then he will need a carpentry workbench. There is a long used and comprehensively tested general concept of such a workplace. Probably, it makes sense to stick to it when making a workbench on your own.
The workbench is based on powerful wooden legs (pos. 1), which from below, at the base, are usually connected in pairs with lintel supports (pos. 2). There is a lid on top - a workbench (pos. 3). As a rule, a recessed area is provided - the so-called tray (pos. 4), so that during the work the tools or components necessary at hand do not fall to the floor.
Usually on the right side there is a side or rear clamp (pos. 5). In fact, this is a screw vice, in which a wedge is provided (pos. 6) that extends upwards. Along the line of this wedge along the bench there is a row of sockets (pos. 7) for similar wedges (they can be hidden in these sockets or stored separately and inserted as needed). This allows you to rigidly fix the wooden workpiece for processing between the wedges of the table and the side vise.
To fix a long piece that cannot be secured between the end wedges, use the front clamp (pos. 8). This is also a screw vice that is able to clamp the workpiece between the front end of the workbench and a movable wooden sponge. And in order for the long part to have the necessary support points from below, the fingers hidden there in the grooves or retractable supports (pos. 9) extend from the end of the workbench.
The lower area of the workbench is called the workbench (pos. 10). As a rule, powerful crossbeams (prolegs) are located here, connecting the legs in pairs, imposition in the longitudinal direction. On these crossbars, shelves are often organized for storing tools or workpieces, or even, as shown in the diagram shown, a closed cabinet.
Below is a drawing of a workbench. Anyone who can read diagrams and has carpentry skills will be able to make such a model on their own.
For starters, general wiring diagram carpentry workbench with dimensions.
Now - a series of drawings for individual parts and components of the structure.
As a rule, high-quality coniferous wood with a residual moisture content of not more than 12% is used for the manufacture of parts for the underlay (base).
The workbench (cover) is mainly made of hardwood - it can be beech or oak, ash or maple. To make such a massive overall panel on your own is an extremely difficult task, therefore, a ready-made glued shield is often ordered or purchased in a carpentry workshop. It is unlikely that this will seem like a too expensive solution, given both the cost of the material and the laboriousness of the process. So it is more profitable to purchase a finished product, and then modify it for a workbench.
By the way, when performing various processing operations, one way or another, the surface of the desktop will be damaged. To maximize the life of the workbench, the lid is often covered with a plywood or fiberboard sheet (naturally, according to the size of the table and with all the necessary grooves and sockets). As such a coating wears out, it can be replaced with a new one - this is not so difficult and inexpensive.
Particular difficulty is usually attached to the installation of the front and rear (side) clamps. In order to get really workable and convenient devices, it is better to purchase the screw vice mechanism itself in a finished, assembled form. There are many models available for this purpose.
To assemble these clamping units, you can refer to the following drawing:
The vise jaws must be made exclusively from hardwood, the dimensions and location of the holes are shown on the drawing. (It should be correctly understood that the location and diameter of the holes must correspond to the purchased screw mechanism).
And finally, the last diagram shows how to attach the rear fixed jaws of both vices to the workbench cover.
Of course, an example is shown here, moreover, it can suit many in its “pure form”, that is, without changes. But if other dimensions are required (based, for example, on the available space), then you can draw up your own drawing by taking the demonstrated diagrams as a model for assembling certain nodes. The principle still remains the same. If necessary, no one bothers to make their own improvements, which, of course, should not adversely affect the strength of the structure.
Video: locksmith workbench with their farts
If the master plans to mainly engage in locksmith operations, then he will need a completely different workbench, designed specifically for such purposes. Here, in contrast to the carpentry "classics" - innumerable options. as a rule, steel profiles (corners, channels, profile pipes) and sheets are used for manufacturing. One of the quite worthy options is shown in the video below:
An important component of working comfort in the workshop is always the optimized arrangement and storage of tools and accessories. But we will not dwell on this, since a separate article is devoted to this topic on the pages of our portal.
How to make the workshop as comfortable as possible for work?
It is convenient when you know where everything is and when essential tool- always at hand. So you should pay close attention to the system of cabinets, racks, cabinets, reasonably organized places for storing consumables. This is especially important in cases where the size of the room does not allow "roaming". Questions on our portal have a special publication.
Homemade machines and equipment
As already mentioned, the variety of home-made machines is extremely large, and it is simply impossible to tell about all of them. Therefore, in this section of the article, the reader will be offered several video reviews. And, in addition, in detail, the manufacture of two models of machine tools will be considered step by step.
Video - miniature wood lathe based on an electric drill
In the economy, it often becomes necessary to carve one or another wooden part of a circular cross section. If you do not do this professionally, then acquiring a real lathe is completely unprofitable. And yes, it will take up a lot of space. But to have at your disposal a miniature machine that can be stored in a closet and assembled as needed - never hurts. Moreover, its manufacture is not so difficult.
This can be seen by watching the proposed video. Despite the fact that the author speaks English, all his actions are shown in detail and are quite understandable. And such a machine, guided by this video hint, is within the power of everyone to do.
Video - circular machine based on a manual vertical electric saw
If it becomes necessary to harvest a considerable number of wooden parts of the same size, then nothing better than a stationary circular saw can be invented. And it is quite possible to make such a machine, and, again, in a collapsible version, which, out of uselessness, does not take up almost any space at all.
It will take only a sheet of plywood, a few bars and self-tapping screws. And the main element of the design becomes a hand-held vertical saw
In the plot shown, the master removes part of the protective fence of the manual circular. This is not always necessary. It is quite possible that the free exit of the saw will be enough if it is intended to cut not too thick workpieces.
Pendulum saw from the "Bulgarian" - self-production step by step
When cutting blanks or wood or metal, including shaped or round pipes, high accuracy is often required. Moreover, the accuracy is not only in linear dimensions, but also in the magnitude of the cut angle. A typical example is when it is necessary to accurately cut workpieces for a frame in which the joining of parts is either strictly perpendicular or at an angle of 45 degrees.
A pendulum saw allows you to perform such an operation. The diagram above shows in a simplified form the principle of its design and operation.
In any case, there is a reliable base (bed, frame) that ensures the stability of the machine (pos. 1). In many models, a desktop is organized on top of the bed with a system of guides, stops and clamps that allow you to accurately set the workpiece to be processed. There must be a slot (pos. 2), exactly into which the rotating circle or saw falls.
The support (pos. 3) of the oscillating part of the machine is rigidly attached to the bed. It is equipped with a block of bearings and an axle (pos. 4), relative to which the swinging rocker platform (pos. 5) rotates. An electric drive (pos. 6) is placed on this platform, which transmits rotation directly or through a transmission system (pos. 7) to a cutting tool - a cutting wheel or a circular saw (pos. 8). A lever (pos. 9) or a handle is provided, with which the master can smoothly lower the cutting disc down onto the workpiece fixed on the work table above the slot.
But the possibilities of this tool will become immeasurably wider if a special tool is made for it. milling table. One of the options for such a home-made machine is in the proposed video.
Homemade machine for sharpening cutting tools - step by step
And in the workshop, and in the kitchen, and just around the house, a lot of cutting tools are used that need regular sharpening. Running disc sharpeners for knives give a very short effect of the sharpness of the cutting edge, as they remove metal along the edge of the blade, and according to all the canons it is required - perpendicular to it. When sharpening manually with the help of bars or on a rotating sharpener, it is very difficult to accurately maintain the optimal angle, especially if it is equal along the entire length of the blade. By the way, this full sharpening angle is different for various types cutting tool - there are many separate publications on the Internet on this topic.
This means that in order to sharpen, for example, a knife, a device is required that would allow applying a force with the translational direction of the flat abrasive perpendicular to the cutting edge consistently along its entire length with a single, pre-inserted angle of inclination. And to provide visual control over the course of formation and sharpening of this cutting edge.
There are many such devices on the market. But if there is a desire, then a similar machine can be made independently, using materials that may be found in a workshop or garage. Yes, if you buy what you need, it will come out quite inexpensively. An example is shown step by step in the table below.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
| The entire design of the machine, all its parts and assemblies will be somehow mounted on the base - the bed (frame). For its manufacture, a profile pipe of square section 20 × 20 mm is well suited ... |
|
| ... with a wall thickness of 2 mm. As it will be clear further, there are no strict proportions of sizes - they proceed from considerations of common sense, the strength of the structure being created, the presence of certain materials. |
|
| Blanks for the frame are cut from the profile pipe with a grinder: two pieces 250 mm long, and two more - 130 mm. | |
| In this example, the master will adjust the joining sides of the frame at an angle of 45 degrees. This requires a precise cut, so it is best to do it with a cutting machine. If it is not there, nothing prevents making the frame simpler, that is, placing its sides end-to-end. Then, instead of 130 mm, small parts will be only 90 mm, as they will stand between large ones. This will not affect the functionality of the grinding machine in any way - the only thing is that there will be some loss of aesthetics. |
|
| This is how the frame turned out after preparing the details. | |
| Cut edges can be slightly trimmed, deburred, cleaned with a small chamfer under the weld. | |
| Then the frame is assembled on one side and welded through with a continuous seam along short vertical joints. The seams are cleaned of slag and polished with a grinder. |
|
| Welded frame corner after stripping. You can, of course, immediately boil on both sides, but the master simply decided to supplement the frame with height-adjustable legs-stands. The operation is optional - it is quite acceptable to install the machine just with the frame on a flat surface. But with coasters, of course, more interesting. |
|
| This adjustable leg with a nut is easy to find in any furniture hardware store. The nuts will just be welded into the corners of the frame. |
|
| Holes are drilled in the corners into which the nuts will be planted before they are scalded. | |
| The nuts are inserted into the holes - this operation is carried out on all four corners of the bed. | |
| Now, on one side of the bed (on its small side), it is required to weld nuts, where the vertical stand of the machine will be screwed. To do this, at an equal distance from the corners, at first thin (3 ÷ 4 mm) ... |
|
| - and then - with a drill with a diameter of 10 mm, the upper wall of the bed is drilled. | |
| Here, stability is important, the stability of the fastening of the assembly, that is, several turns of thread - do not get off. Therefore, elongated M8 nuts will be welded into the holes made. It is advisable to pre-cut their lower edge under the cylinder, so that it fits snugly into the drilled holes. |
|
| In fact, only one such socket is required to mount the machine. But it is better to provide two symmetrical ones - who knows, it may be more convenient for the user in some cases to rearrange the rack to another position. This will take no more than a couple of minutes. | |
| After that, all nuts are scalded. When tacking, it is necessary to ensure that the nuts do not move and stand evenly. To do this, they can be held by a temporarily screwed long pin, controlling its position perpendicular to the plane of the frame. In addition, this measure reliably protects the thread of the nut from splashing metal on it. |
|
| Here's what happened: on the upper side of the frame - two welded nuts under the racks ... | |
| ... from the bottom - four welded nuts in the corners for screwing in adjustable supports. By the way, if the master has threaded rivets of the required diameter at his disposal (M6 for the supports, and M8 for the rack), then you can get by with them, that is, get away from the operation of welding the nuts. |
|
| The next step is to make a shelf on which the cutting tools will be fixed with a pressure plate. It can be made from a thick steel plate. But the master decided to give it a slight reverse slope, so he cuts it out of a corner with a 63 mm shelf. The length of the part is the width of the bed, that is, 130 mm. |
|
| First, the desired fragment of the corner is cut off. Then he is clamped in a vise to evenly cut off one shelf with a grinder. |
|
| This is how this platform will be welded to the frame. | |
| After welding, the seam is carefully cleaned. | |
| Knives and other cutting tools will be fixed on this platform with a pressure plate. And for this it is necessary to prepare two holes with an M8 thread. It is advisable to arrange them wider so that, for example, you can clamp knives from a planer and other cutting parts of a similar plan between them. First, holes are drilled with a small diameter drill - 3 or 4 mm. |
|
| Then - with a drill for M8 thread, that is, with a diameter of 6.7 mm. | |
| After that, a thread is cut with a tap. | |
| The next operation is the manufacture of the pressure plate. For her, it is better to take a thick, 3 ÷ 4 mm, stainless steel. It is less prone to deformation than ordinary carbon steel. The size of the plate must correspond to the dimensions of the support platform. |
|
| The edge that will face the cutting edge of the tool is ground on a bevel to prevent it from touching the abrasive during sharpening. Further, two holes for M8 screws are drilled on the plate - strictly coinciding along the axes with the threaded holes in the support platform. These screw holes can be reworked "under the sweat". |
|
| The bed is completely ready, and after stripping and degreasing it can be coated with paint from an aerosol can. While the paint is drying, you can work on other components and parts of the machine. |
|
| For the rack and working bar of the machine, a steel bar with a diameter of 8 mm will be used. First you need to thoroughly clean it - polish it with sandpaper. The master suggested this option - with clamping the rod into the drill chuck and holding the paper in hand. Let's be honest - not quite a safe way. |
|
| Rod after polishing. It is divided into two segments - one with a length of 450 ÷ 500 mm, the second - 250 ÷ 300 mm. |
|
| An M8 thread is cut from one end of each of the bars. On a short bar, a threaded section about 20 mm long is for screwing into a welded-in bed nut. |
|
| On a long bar there is a thread 40÷50 mm long. It is necessary for winding the handle. | |
| The next step is the manufacture of clamps that will hold the abrasive bar on the rod. They are made from elongated M10 nuts. First you need to mark the center with a core through hole, indented 12 mm from the edge. |
|
| Then, very carefully, strictly perpendicular to the axis of the nut, a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled. | |
| A quarter must be cut off from the other end of the nut. This is done with a hacksaw in two steps. First, a transverse incision is made to the center ... |
|
| ... and then - longitudinal. You need to prepare two such nuts. |
|
| Short M10 locking bolts are screwed into the nuts - and the latches are ready. This is how they will look. |
|
| After that, the clamps are put on the bar. Between them, a whetstone is placed in the cut out quarters, and this entire assembly is fixed with clamping bolts. Everything, the bar is assembled, you can proceed to the next node of the machine. |
|
| The rack should have a node that provides the upper point of support for the bar. In this case, the translational movement of the bar back and forth, and the degree of freedom to the left and right, should be ensured. In a word, this is a kind of hinge, the height of which on the stand will just set the angle of sharpening the cutting edge. This assembly will be made again on the basis of an elongated M10 nut. To begin with, a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled in it - just like on the nuts, which went to the clamps. |
|
| Then a rather complicated operation follows. It is necessary to first drill a hole with a diameter of 6.7 mm through the head of the M10 bolt, and then cut the M8 thread in it. The bolt itself will be screwed into the nut, and the ring from the anchor will be screwed into the hole. This ring will just act as a hinge. |
|
| This is what the assembly looks like. From the side of the through hole, an M10 bolt is screwed into the nut, with which the assembly will be fixed on a vertical rack. |
|
| I must say that such a hinge in the “light version” is not the most successful, and only the availability of parts justifies it. But the working rod has a rather solid backlash, which can affect the accuracy of maintaining a single sharpening angle along the entire cutting edge of the knife. A more perfect solution would be to use a ready-made fisheye hinge - such parts are presented in a large assortment in online stores, and their cost is not so high. It is quite possible, probably, to do without the complex operation of drilling a hole in the head of the bolt with subsequent threading - if you are lucky to get a hinge with a suitable threaded part. Then for the connection it will be possible to do with a short hairpin. But for now, we are considering the way the master suggested. |
|
| All parts are ready - you can proceed to the assembly of the machine. | |
| Support legs are screwed to the bottom of the bed. Their height is immediately adjusted so that the machine stands steadily - at all four points. |
|
| The vertical stand is screwed in. | |
| A swivel assembly is put on the rack and fixed at a certain height with a clamping bolt. | |
| A pressure plate is placed on the base plate. Two screws are baited, which will fix the cutting tool in this clamp. | |
| It remains to thread the free end of the working rod into the hinge ring - and we can assume that the machine is ready. | |
| The master decided to immediately try it in his work. To begin with, sharpen this knife with a completely “killed” cutting edge. |
|
| The knife is placed between the support platform and the pressure plate. The cutting edge is roughly parallel to the short side of the bed. Fixation is carried out by tightening two screws. |
|
| The working bar is inserted into the hinge. The hinge itself is set in height to ensure the required sharpening angle. The sharpening process begins - first with the first, large bar. As you work, you can observe how a uniform cutting edge is formed along the entire length of the blade. |
|
| Then the bar can be changed to another, with a fine abrasive, to bring the sharpening to the maximum sharpness of the cutting edge. | |
| The result of the work - first visually ... | |
| ... and now with a demonstration of the degree of sharpening of the cutting edge. A loose sheet of paper is easily cut into strips. |
|
| By changing the height of the hinge assembly, you can similarly sharpen the iron of the planer ... | |
| ...or even the blade of an axe. The machine itself, when temporarily unnecessary, is easy to disassemble by removing the bar and unscrewing the rack. In this form, it will take up very little space in a closet or on a shelf. |
It makes sense to add a few more touches.
- Many factory-made models are equipped with a scale that sets the required sharpening angle of the cutting edge. It is easy to come up with a similar device yourself, for example, such as shown in the illustration. A plate perpendicular to the plane of the supporting platform, and a removable ruler with a protractor screwed to it.
After clamping the knife in the clamp, it is enough to attach the ruler to the cutting edge and to the hinge point, combine the central risk of the protractor with the platinum, and take the angle readings using the same platinum, counting it from 90 degrees.
Important - the full sharpening angle is made up of angles on both sides of the blade. That is, if an angle of 30 is required°, then sharpening on one side should be carried out at an angle of 15°.
They act differently - instead of a protractor, you can fix a sector on which signed marks are made in advance, for example, “kitchen knife”, “table knife”, “chisel”, “”, etc. That is, it will be enough to choose the height of the hinge so that the bar coincides with the marked mark.
Another option is the marks on the vertical stand. True, in this case uniformity is required in the placement of knives in the clamp - so that the cutting edge always protrudes at the same distance from the edge. Not quite convenient.
And the easiest option is to make several templates from thick cardboard or thin plywood, signing them for which cutting tool this corner is intended.
In a word, having shown ingenuity, it is easy to significantly simplify bringing the machine to the desired working position.
- You can make a comment on the fastening of the bars. If they are supposed to be changed in the course of sharpening, then they must necessarily have the same thickness, otherwise the angle will change. Many masters advise other approaches. Instead of bars, they have several steel plates prepared. the same size. Abrasive paper is glued onto the plates. Two sides are already two different levels of grit. That is, you can prepare a kit for all stages of sharpening: from the rough formation of the cutting edge to its polishing.
One more interesting idea in this respect - not a plate, but a piece of a shaped square pipe 20 × 20 mm. The four sides are four different abrasives. In the course of work - just turn over the right side ...
- Another nuance: it does not hurt to ensure your own safety at work. It will be very unpleasant if, during forward movement, the hand breaks off - and exactly with your fingers along the cutting edge. So some kind of protective guard will not hurt here, which you can come up with to your taste.
A self-made machine for sharpening tools will certainly be very useful in any household.
* * * * * * *
We can say that in this article we only slightly “digged” the topic of home-made machines and devices. We will be glad if readers send their wishes: which of the tools they would like to see with details - we will try to satisfy their requests. And even better - if one of the amateur craftsmen shares their secrets on the pages of our portal. Published reviews from visitors - without fail paid.
“There are never too many tools” - everyone who was engaged in construction or made something heard this phrase. The right tool is invaluable when you need to cut, weld, or join parts. The section on FORUMHOUSE about home-made machines and devices, which is called so, is constantly updated with new products that simplify and optimize the work of a builder or a “jack of all trades”.
We have already said, and. We continue the topic. Today we will talk about home-made turning, locksmith and even garden tools and fixtures for construction.
Cutting machine from grinder
Workshop machines are always in demand, but angle grinders (angle grinder machine), popularly "Bulgarian", one of the favorites in the arsenal of any home master. But the tool requires a very attentive attitude, because. any neglect can result in serious injury. Therefore, with large volumes of metal sawing (when making a fence or cutting reinforcement), many people prefer to work with a cutting machine for metal.
You can buy a frame for an angle grinder on the Internet, but in order to save money, you can make a cutting machine yourself, from an “unnecessary” or “extra” “grinder” on the farm, which almost every owner of a country house has. As we will see, it is not only suitable for sharpening garden equipment!
Ivici FORUMHOUSE User,
Moscow.
I have an angle grinder, weighing 5.5 kg. Once I thought about how to simplify its use. After all, working with her, moving all the time, is inconvenient - hands get tired quickly. I decided to make a convenient cutting machine from what I have.
Looking ahead, let's say that the machine (more precisely, its second modification) was a success: it saws smoothly and without distortions.
Ivici I made it like this - I took a piece of channel No. 6.5 (65 mm wide and 36 mm high). This is the base of the machine.
It also required a steel strip 50x5 mm. With the help of it, the grinder is fixed. It also required a 4x2 cm profile and a 3 mm piece of steel. The "figure eight" bolt serves as a rotary axis.
In the first version of the machine, a powerful door hinge was used as a rotary axis. But, due to welding, under the action high temperature, all the grease burned out in the loop, and play appeared in the assembly.
According to the user, the hardest part was precisely marking and drilling the three 14mm diameter holes to bolt the angle grinder to the threaded holes for the side handle.
To do this, I had to use a stepped (conical) drill for metal.
I also had to work with a round file. A small bore of the holes, due to the play, allows you to move the grinder a little during the assembly process and install it accurately. After all the details are ready, the user grabbed the “piece of iron” that fastens the grinder by welding, assembled the entire structure in draft form, verified all the corners and, making sure that everything was mounted as it should, finally scalded the entire structure.
Ivici
The machine is attached to the support table (a piece of slate 1 cm thick) with six self-tapping screws. You can refuse the return spring, just tighten the axle bolt tighter. When cutting the workpiece, there are no backlashes, distortions. You can also cut at an angle of 45 degrees.
Another home-made machine from angle grinders was offered by a portal user with a nickname Bistok.
As usual, at first we start a small construction or alteration, then we understand that we need new construction tools and fixtures, and then the search for the most optimal solution begins. Well don't buy it!
Bistok FORUMHOUSE user
I decided to make a ladder out of metal. To avoid marriage, backlash, discrepancies, when cutting metal parts, maximum accuracy is required. Therefore, I decided, taking the angle grinder as a basis, to make a sawing machine.
Everything that is usually lying around in the home workshop (and it’s a pity to throw it away) of a zealous owner went into action in anticipation of his finest hour. As a bed for a cutting machine Bistok I used an overlock table.
The swivel assembly is made from a hub from the “nine”, because it has a bearing.
As in the above version, the most difficult thing was to "catch" the right angle between the cutting disc and the stop angle. After all, the accuracy of sawing metal depends on this node.
The end result clearly dismantles the photo below.
To turn on the grinder Bistok I made additional wiring - I brought out a regular switch and a socket, and an extension plug comes from this switch.
You can buy a home-made machine from a familiar craftsman, but it’s much more correct to upgrade to the creator of devices of this level!
Bistok
I have a portable machine. I welded a corner to the handle to get 3 angle grinder support points. Fastening on two bolts customized in place. I work only in goggles. I am very pleased with the result of the work done. For the manufacture of the machine did not buy anything extra. The cut goes exactly at 90°.
Budget drilling machines
In addition to cutting machines, various devices for drilling holes in metal are popular. Starting from stationary drilling machines and ending with fixtures in which conventional drill, as a "drill" of the FORUMHOUSE user with the nickname g8o8r8.
g8o8r8 Member FORUMHOUSE
While drilling many holes of the same type in thick metal, in order to relieve my hands, I made a simple device based on a clamp welded to a metal support and a pair of clamps for rigidly fixing the drill. Now drilling a corner or channel has become much easier.
According to the user, it takes no more than 30 seconds to drill 1 hole with a diameter of 4-5 mm. Having decided to repeat such a design, it should be remembered that the load on the drill increases significantly due to the increase in the amount of work. g8o8r8 I've rebuilt my drill twice.
Also, the user, based on an electric motor, made a small machine - a “vertical machine” for drilling holes with a diameter of up to 4 mm in printed circuit boards.
g8o8r8
The long spindle compensates for the inaccuracy of the bearing cage groove. For amateur use, such a machine is quite suitable. Drilling accuracy remains at an acceptable level.
In case of absence welding machine you can assemble the device you need on the farm on bolted connections.
Hand trowel for concrete
No less than home-made machines for the home workshop, fixtures for construction and repair are important. And we can easily make many building fixtures with our own hands.
Anyone who has ever dealt with concrete work knows how difficult it is to smooth a freshly laid mixture to perfect condition. If in small areas you can get by with the rule, then when pouring a site in front of a house or a parking lot for a car, you can’t do it with an ordinary tool. A concrete trowel comes to the rescue, which, due to the long handle (from 3 to 12 m), allows you to smooth concrete over a larger area without stepping on the surface being leveled.
The principle of operation of such a device, somewhat reminiscent of a mop, is simple. There is a working profile (it is also called a "wing"), fixed on a long handle. When moving away from the trowel, due to the gearbox, the edge opposite from the user rises. That is, due to the angle of inclination of the “wing”, the trowel slides over the concrete, and does not collect it in front of it. When moving towards you, on the contrary, the side facing the worker lifts up, and the smoother again smoothes the concrete.
ronik55 Member of FORUMHOUSE
I know from experience how difficult it is to smooth concrete perfectly. I did not want to go and buy for 10 thousand rubles. In the end, my father made a cheap concrete smoothing device, practically from garbage - all unnecessary things.
The following photos clearly demonstrate how such a smoothing iron is arranged. We take a metal profile (dimensions depend on the smoothed area), weld transverse stiffeners to it, on which, in turn, hinge joints made of pipes are fixed.
The most important element, due to which the angle of elevation of the “wing” changes, is a rotating gearbox with a chain.
When the handle was rotated, the chain was wound around the pipe, and one edge of the trowel was lifted.
Having carried the trowel to the end point, we rotate the handle in reverse side. The chain is wound again and the end of the trowel facing the user is raised.
We pull the ironing board towards ourselves and repeat all the steps until we finish the job.
ronik55
Due to the “pipe in pipe” connection and fixation with a cotter pin, you can increase the length of the handle at your discretion. This design is easy to assemble yourself.
See how to do it yourself (you will also find a drawing at the link).
Garden sprayer and wyma
It all started with Metamorph it was necessary to treat the area from ticks, and the old hand sprayer died a long time. It was necessary to urgently buy a new device or find a replacement for it. Preparing for processing and thinking about what can be done, the user of our portal stumbled upon an unnecessary fire extinguisher lying around on the farm.
Next, we act like this - carefully unwind the fire extinguisher, pour out the remnants of the powder and rinse the container with water. Instead of a bell, we screw in an adapter, into which, depending on the need, you can screw a nipple (for pumping air) or a nozzle (for spraying the mixture).
Metamorf Member FORUMHOUSE
Using a homemade sprayer is very simple: fill the fire extinguisher halfway with a special spray liquid, then pump it with air, screw on the sprayer and go to poison the ticks.
DIY carpentry tool
QWEsad Member of FORUMHOUSE
Once I needed to glue a lot of wooden shields. I didn't have clamps. Therefore, I decided to hastily assemble a wyma from wooden bars with a section of 5x5 cm and metal plates with dozens of nuts welded on.
In total, the user made 3 such clamps, which was enough for gluing a wooden shield measuring 1.5x1.7 m and 18 mm thick. To prevent the bars from sticking to the workpiece, under those places where there is a seam, and glue can protrude, you can put a newspaper or shoot polyethylene with a stapler.
In order not to spoil the workpiece, a gasket must be placed under the plate against which the screw rests. The gluing width is adjusted by moving the stop bar.
