Making a table with your own hands is easy. Do-it-yourself wooden kitchen table How to make a do-it-yourself solid wood table

Kitchen table ik the same age as the kitchen itself. Probably even older than her: at the sites and in the settlements of primitive people, large flat stones were found near the hearths, which served as cutting, distributing and dining tables; on them the remnants of food and food were preserved. In this article, we will see how to make a kitchen table with your own hands completely at home. This will not only save a certain amount (in general, not ruinous), but will also provide an opportunity to acquire initial skills carpentry, which may be more significant in the future. In kitchen tables, the most common types of furniture connections are used, but its design forgives rather gross flaws in work. There are also great-looking types of kitchen tables, for the manufacture of which it is enough to be able to saw off a piece of board and wrap a screw.

The table in the kitchen also provides considerable opportunities for creative self-expression: skills are needed here much less than fantasies, and failure will not spoil the entire interior. Samples of the original kitchen tables in the photo below are quite accessible for DIY, but first you need to feel the design and material at a basic level, which we will try to help the reader with.

There are at least 15 different ways to make a kitchen table, including artistic forging and casting from homemade artificial marble. However, we, firstly, will limit ourselves to kitchen tables made of wood, as a material that allows you to get the desired result with the lowest costs of labor, money and time.

Secondly, we will deal with tables with rectangular or rounded corners. A round table requires 1.6-2.2 times more usable area than a rectangular table for the same number of eaters. Moreover, the first meaning refers to the case when the hostess is deprived of a free approach to it and you need to serve it on the table over the shoulder of the person sitting. This already belongs to the category of parodies on the rules of good taste. Like, how should you tilt the plate when eating the soup: towards yourself or away from you? Answer: depending on what you want to pour over, yourself or a tablecloth. Besides, round table in a small kitchen, stronger than a rectangular one of the same capacity, wedged into the so-called. functionality triangle, see below.

Dimensions and ergonomics

The height of the kitchen table is normal, 700-780 mm, counting from the floor to the top surface of the countertop. For people of average height, the table height of 750-760 mm is considered optimal. But with the size of the kitchen table in terms of the situation is more complicated.

The essence is in the very triangle of functionality: refrigerator-sink-stove. Ideally, it should be rectangular isosceles with legs of 1.2-1.6 m. However, the ergonomics of the kitchen are much stronger than some deviation from these proportions, spoils the wedging of the dining area into the hypotenuse. Simply: the hostess bent over the sink or stove, and rested her seductive forms on the cheek of the missus just when he raised the spoon to his mouth. Therefore, it is advisable to make the table in the kitchen, especially economical layouts, smaller, if only it would be convenient for the eaters.

The minimum allowable size of a family kitchen table in terms of is considered to be 600x900 mm. For singles, let's say a table 450x750 mm, as in railway cars. In this case, it is also permissible to make it a wall-mounted folding one in the “microkitchen” or kitchen area of ​​​​a small-sized odnushka, see below. But the optimal dimensions of the kitchen table top are (650-800) x (1100-1400) mm, depending on the available usable area and the complexion of users.

What to do

Traditional kitchen table - on the underframe pos. 1 in fig. The underframe is the supporting frame of their boards placed on the edge - the tsarg. The drawers can be tightly fastened to the legs of the table, and the tabletop is freely placed on them; those. its fastenings prevent only horizontal displacement. Such a kitchen-sized table is structurally simpler and stronger, but it is more difficult to bring it in / out, especially if the passage to the kitchen is narrow. The second option - the sides are tightly fastened to the tabletop, and the legs are detachable. The countertop in this case needs a strong one and not from any suitable in the previous. case, material, and the design is more complicated. But there are no problems with skid / carry out. Both of these options for the classic kitchen table will be discussed in more detail below.

The table on the underframe can also be artistically designed, pos. 2. Making an artistic kitchen table is not at all as difficult as it might seem. The basis of its design - turned shaped legs - perfectly turns out from commercially available railing balusters (see below). The curly washed down tsarg for a novice master who knows how to handle an electric jigsaw is not a problem. There remains a mow - a shaped chamfer on the lower edges of the tsargs. For her, you can rent a manual milling machine with a milling cutter of a profile you like, with it the work on aiming the moulding takes less than an hour plus 10-15 minutes of training on some kind of pruning.

No less common in kitchens are tables of a beam structure, pos. 3. They are also in the simplest version (see 2 options below) more attractive than tables with underframes. However, to fulfill them in the design high class(pos. 4) requires a well-equipped carpentry and solid manufacturing skills. Beam tables require more material consumption, but their undeniable advantage is that they can be made completely collapsible without tools (also see below).

Tables with a load-bearing top without a base (pos. 5) are also very common in kitchens. In the factory version, this is perhaps the cheapest type of kitchen tables. good quality. A set of legs for such a table + a postforming table top (see below) will cost about 2500 rubles, and assembly will take half an evening at most. But with a completely independent manufacture of such a table, a beginner will encounter some significant nuances, see below.

Tables-books, they are tables-pedestals, pos. 6 initially made a splash due to its compactness when folded and the possibility of using it in half, but then there was a period of some disappointment. Firstly, no matter how you sit at such a table, your legs are uncomfortable. Secondly, in the first samples, the latch of the swivel support was the simplest, from a pair of 50x20 bars attached with a gap equal to the thickness of the support to the underside of the table top. The outer faces of the bars were often removed on a wedge so that the support would not cling to them when the table was unfolded. However, if you accidentally pry the countertop with your knee, the latch is immediately released. Therefore, without a hodgepodge with meatballs and mashed potatoes on trousers and the floor, such tables could not do, and a reliable and easy-to-use mechanical lock turned out to be very complicated and expensive. Nevertheless, both amateur craftsmen and serious manufacturers are improving this, in principle, very promising design, to which a special section will be devoted further in this publication.

Wall-mounted folding tables, (pos. 7), are occasionally found in very tiny kitchenettes. Most often - among busy bachelors, who are used to doing everything standing up, even sleeping on the carpet in front of the authorities, because. have all the shortcomings of book tables with little or no room for improvement. Serving tables (pos. 8) are used much more often on the farm, but this is a separate class of furniture with its own specific qualities and features of manufacturing technology, so here we will limit ourselves to mentioning them.

Technological subtleties and innovations

The kitchen table, firstly, is made of wood species or materials that are little or not at all subject to shrinkage during drying: oak, hornbeam, wenge, laminated chipboard, MDF. Ordinary commercial wood in the kitchen atmosphere with its fluctuations in temperature, humidity and organic vapors in the air in 5-7 years begins to warp and crack even when impregnated and under varnish. On the other hand, the size of the kitchen table is small. From this follow some features of its manufacture, ultimately allowing to simplify the work.

table top

This is the main detail of any table. For a homemade table in the kitchen, the best option is to buy a finished postforming tabletop, they are available in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. Postforming is a profiled chipboard with rounded ribs, finished to look like wood or other material. The advantages of postforming in relation to the kitchen table are as follows:

Postforming is good technologically, for simplicity and speed of work. But unlike the example, tabletops cohesive from boards look more solid, the so-called. solid wood or furniture boards. Rallying boards into an array is a rather delicate and painstaking work; for this, special devices are used - clamps. If you have a desire to try your hand at making solid wood furniture, we offer a selection of videos:

How to assemble a furniture board with your own hands:

How to make a shield kitchen table top:

How to make a tabletop from the end cuts of a tree:

In the last video, the material is junk, but the appearance can be achieved - the cool oligarchs will salivate.

Dowels, confirmations and dowels

Traditionally wooden furniture going on dowels. The dowel connection is invisible and cheap; just in case, we recall what it is and how it is done, see fig. For connection wooden parts wooden dowels are used, which dry out together with the connected parts; practically non-drying chipboard is connected with plastic dowels. Corner plastic dowels are of little use, because. often break. Joints with wooden dowels are usually glued.

It is often difficult for novice craftsmen to achieve accurate markings for a dowel connection. Tricks, like marking with bitten nails (item 4 in the figure), do not always help, and it is impossible to redo an incorrectly marked dowel connection, both parts go to waste. Therefore, it is better for beginners to assemble their first products on furniture euroscrews - confirmations. This is more expensive, but does not require special skills, because. the hole for confirmation in both parts, compressed by a clamp, is drilled in one go, see fig.

Details made of laminated chipboard or dense thin-layer wood, connected by confirmers, last for many years. All the designs described below can be assembled both on dowels and on confirmations. However, in the latter case, the following rules must be observed:

• Use exactly furniture for wood, and not plumbing confirmations for plastic. They differ at first sight: in furniture slots for a hexagon, and in plumbing for a Phillips screwdriver.
• The diameter of the body of the confirmant without thread when fastened to the end should be no more than 1/5-1/3 ( extreme case) the thickness of the attached part.
• The height of the neck of the confirmation must correspond to the thickness of the main part.
• The depth of the threaded part of the confirmat into the attached part must be at least 5-6 full diameters of the confirmat.
• The hole (blind hole) for confirmation is drilled to its full length with a head.
• The main drill should only be used with a twist drill for wood.
• The main drill must be filled into a mandrel that exactly matches its diameter and screw size.
• Holes for confirmations should be drilled with a main drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the confirmation on the thread.

In practice, it is not difficult for even a perfect “teapot” to fulfill these conditions:

1. By the thickness of the part, we determine the diameter of the body of the confirmant without thread;
2. There is a lot of information on the Internet about confirmations, according to which, knowing the diameter of the screw body, the thickness of the main part and the drilling depth, you can determine the required size. It is better to immediately open the pictures on request "furniture screw (or confirmation) drawings dimensions";
3. We are looking for a point of sale where the seller, when asked to show furniture confirmations, shows exactly them;
4. We say: "I need so much of such and such a size and a drill with a mandrel for them." They can offer a solid drill just for such a confirmation, it will be cheaper.

And a little more about dowels. It is best to put a detachable (freely imposed) countertop of a classic kitchen table on them. Incl. and for such purposes, plastic dowels with a rounded head or dowels with a hat and different types corrugations on the long recessed and short protruding parts, see fig. on right. Thick worktops, approx. from 20 mm; the second - which are thinner.

Different tables

Classic

Classic tables on the underframe along with the legs (item 1 in the figure) are traditionally connected (assembled) on tongue-and-groove joints, which is rather complicated and time-consuming. A modern tool - a drill with a twist drill for wood and a screwdriver - in combination with legs, the section of the heads of which is not less than 60x60 mm (for head balusters, usually from 100x100 mm), allows for a kitchen table with dimensions in plan up to approx. 750x1500 mm to do with the connection with wood screws obliquely, pos. 3. In any case, the outer faces of the tsarg should be 1.5 cm from the outer surfaces of the leg caps, which is necessary for overall strength. The minimum allowable height of the kitchen table tsarg is 120 mm; thickness - 30 mm.

It is highly desirable to reinforce the oblique connection with self-tapping screws with diagonal ties in the corners (pos. 4, above) from the same board as the drawers. If the countertop is not supposed to be removed without extreme necessity, then the time-consuming putting it on the dowels can be abandoned. Then, at the corners of the finished supporting frame, cuts of the same board - crackers - are cut into the drawers and the tabletop is attached to them from the underside with self-tapping screws, pos. 4 below.

The tabletop of a classic table with detachable legs should be at least 24 mm thick (chipboard, plywood) or 30 mm thick (solid wood). Worktops made of other materials, e.g. artificial stone, suitable for tables on the underframe along with the legs are not applicable here. Due to the large difference between their thermal expansion modules and wood, the table will soon loosen.

Further, the drawers are attached to the countertop with long confirmations through the end, on the left in the figure, with gluing with carpentry glue or PVA. With the help of conventional wood screws, it is difficult to achieve accurate assembly, because. they are without a neck that holds the joint from displacement.

The next moment - the jibs in the corners (in the same place in the figure) are necessary, wooden mortise or ready-made steel invoices. Legs attached at the corners in the usual way, on the right in Fig.

Desk drawer

A drawer is a classic constructive module of a classic kitchen table. The guides for the drawer of the table are taken the same as for the drawers of the nightstand, chest of drawers, cabinet. Since a large weight load is not expected in this case, and the smoothness of the drawer and the possibility of its full extension are not of great importance, you can use inexpensive roller guides on which the keyboard boards of computer tables go.

The device of a furniture box is shown on the left in fig. Pick up his tray the old fashioned way on box spike(on the right in the figure) is not necessary, you can use self-tapping screws in the ends of the boards. The thickness of the boards for the side of the box is 12-20 mm. The plywood bottom is often fixed with a furniture stapler, but this is not entirely reliable. It is better to attach with screws through the cranial bars along the contour of the bottom. The front of the drawer can lean on the front side of the table or go flush into it, it doesn't matter.

To install the drawer in the table, in the longitudinal front drawer, an opening is cut out according to the dimensions of the cross section of the drawer tray, plus allowances on the sides for the guides (indicated in the specification for them), plus another 3 mm along the contour. Then the side support boards are installed for attaching the guides. They are attached to the longitudinal sides from the inside with the help of backing bars. It is not necessary to fasten it to the tabletop, it will loosen. Next, the box is assembled, attached to it and to the support boards, respectively. rail parts, push the box into place, that's all.

Very simple

A perfectly simple but good looking kitchen table with a classic look can be made on a supporting frame of planks, see fig. on right. Its length, if the section of the tsarg is at least 120x20 mm, can be increased to 1100 mm. Tabletop - any weight up to 15 kg. The angle of inclination of the legs from the vertical is 15-20 degrees, this is one fundamental point in this design. The second is transverse screeds made of 50x15 timber, they give the entire structure the necessary rigidity. So, although this table looks classic, in fact it is already a beam.

Beam

Drawings of a pair of kitchen tables of a beam structure are given in fig. Above - completely collapsible without tools. The tabletop is structurally any, placed on dowels, although the style of this table (rustic) is fully consistent only with a tabletop made of solid wood. A variant of its fastening from the underside without dowels on the cranial bars is shown in the inset in the center on the right.

In this product, the lower dressing (longitudinal screed) with a beveled through groove for the wedge may seem like a stumbling block to a beginner. In fact, everything is very simple: the bottom dressing is assembled on glue from 3 layers of 10 mm plywood or board. How beam kitchen tables of this type are made, you can watch the following video:

Video: do-it-yourself table by components

The table, the drawings of which are below in the figure, has 2 features. First, all the material is a board with a width of 120 mm or more, timber is not used. The second is that only a tray is provided under the tabletop, and it can also be glass, plywood with a mosaic of tiles or its fragments, etc. The gap between the tabletop board and the frame of the tray is prone to clogging, but it is also easy to remove the tabletop for cleaning. So is it rustic or modern, is it a kitchen table, boudoir or coffee table, you decide for yourself.

Without pedestal

Factory kitchen tables without table tops are usually produced with postforming worktops, pos. 1 in fig. Those who want to make something similar on their own under a wooden tabletop will face the following tricks.

First, a pedestal is still needed, from wooden beam from 50x50, pos. 2. The fact is that the mechanical stresses in the boards always flow to the corners, where they are distributed very unevenly. But the wood under all 3 fastening points of the leg clip must be tense approximately the same, otherwise the fastening will loosen by itself. The strapping from the timber expands the stress fan in this place to an acceptable value, but it is impossible to replace the continuous strapping with corner plates, there will be no sense from them.

The second is the material of the countertop. The standard threaded sockets for mounting the leg clips (item 3) are designed for chipboard or dense thin-layered wood. If the countertop is made of pine, etc. layered rather soft wood, then the nests can, having broken the layers, crawl back already during the installation of the clips. And the probability that this will happen when someone inadvertently pushes the table is close to 100%.

And the third - the clips of the legs themselves. In cheap sets of parts for tables without understands from "alternative" manufacturers, they are most often silumin, pos. 4. And silumin, as you know, is very, very fragile. In general, if you like such tables, it will be easier to buy ready-made with a guarantee. Most likely, and cheaper than recruiting a kit for self-assembly at retail.

Books and cheburashki

The shortcomings of the table-book of the original design (see the figure on the right) have already been mentioned above. On fig. below is a drawing of the design of the table-book (conditionally shown is only one swivel support without the wings of the tabletop), eliminating them amateurishly, but effectively. Simply, the width of the swivel support is more than doubled compared to the wing span of the tabletop (350 and 720 mm, respectively). Now the support rotates 90 degrees, it has become comfortable to sit as you like. The support, located in the working position along the longitudinal axis of the tabletop, holds it even better than the oblique one, and in order to raise the tabletop until the top bar of the support comes out of the simplest latch (see above), the knees must be pulled up so that it will be very uncomfortable. General stability is provided by the legs of the pedestal section, which must be made as long as possible, but not less than 600 mm. Otherwise, the swivel supports must be brought down in height to the floor level.

A fundamentally similar solution was also used in the wall-mounted folding table (pos. 1 and 2 in the next figure), but here the bevel of the hanging angle of the support already works for operational reliability. Which is quite applicable in the previous. case: there are no contraindications for the implementation of that support in the form of a trapezium converging downwards.

A proprietary solution to the problems of a table-book is detachable legs stored in a cabinet. Putting them up is not much more troublesome than catching the latch on the table top with a swivel support. Such a table-book turns out, of course, more expensive, but its operational reliability is complete: there is no latch, because. it's just not needed.

The next step in the evolution of the book table is a design with a cabinet of greater width and 1 leg for each wing of the table top. The legs are half the size, so the whole table is cheaper. Its stability has only increased due to the expansion of the cabinet, it is generally comfortable to sit, and there is more space in the cabinet (which is always lacking in the kitchen).

Consumers liked such kitchen tables so much that they were already given the nickname - Cheburashka table. Probably, remembering from the cartoon: "Here, we built, built, and finally built." Folding kitchen table, as it should be.

Alternative

If your kitchen is combined with the living room or you plan to combine them, then you don’t need to think about the kitchen table, it is better to replace it with a column. At the bar, you can not only drink, you can also eat on it. The meaning of such a replacement is that at least half of the dining area generally goes beyond the kitchen, and the rest is used sporadically and does not wedge into a functional triangle. Result? See fig. It is more convenient to work and dine in a 5-meter kitchenette in the bar counter - a separator of apartment zones than in an 8-9-meter Brezhnevka kitchen. Can't believe it? Let's count.

The kitchen table does not stand on its own. To land the eaters, you need to add 400 mm along the contour, and another 300-350 for the approach. As a result, a table of 900x600 mm requires approx. 2.5 sq. m of "living space", and the table is 1200x700 mm and all 3.5 sq. m. It is very, very difficult to push such a thick slice into a kitchen of ordinary sizes without crushing the functional triangle softly. Here, even if two people sit at the counter from the side of the kitchen, the functional triangle is not violated, and the hostess is just a stone's throw away.

One of the famous culinary specialists once said: "The kitchen is conservative, like the digestive tract." Here he, of course, bent and bent. Something like a stove, refrigerator, food processor and microwave is not found in our stomach, although the kitchen is really conservative. But even in the most conservative sphere, sometimes there comes a moment that requires fundamental changes.

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Not everyone likes to buy finished goods for home use. The soul of some people requires creative and practical self-realization. The editors of the online magazine, the site invites those who wish to learn how to make a wooden table with their own hands, what is required for this, and whether there are pitfalls in such work.

A beautiful piece of wood for the kitchen or living room, made with love

Professional carpenters are unlikely to need our step by step recommendations, but for beginners, advice will come in handy. To begin with, consider what products you can make with your own hands from wood.

Of course, the more skills a person has, the more complex the model he can make. But in order to build a table with your own hands from wood, there are ready-made drawings and photos to help beginners.

How to choose material for self-production of a wooden table for home and garden

What to make a dining table with your own hands? The best is wood. The most malleable for the newly-minted master will be pine. Poplar products will look more solemn. For the street, you can take mahogany.

If you want an option for the home and easier, then you should consider laminated chipboard with an optimal thickness of 25-35 mm. On the countertop, you can take wooden boards, birch plywood with a thickness of 35 mm. The legs can be made of metal or wooden beams (about 50 mm thick).

In order not to be mistaken with the amount of material, a preliminary drawing of the future design is made with exactly the specified dimensions.

Advice! Suitable product height varies between 750-800 mm.

Related article:

DIY furniture made of wood: for garden, children's room, kitchen, sauna, garden, arbor; how to restore pieces of furniture, useful tips and recommendations from experts - read our publication.

What tools are needed to make a wooden table with your own hands

It doesn’t matter what shape the future table will be: a certain set of tools is required to work with wood. You can’t do without a jigsaw, and it will be much easier to work with electric model. To fix all structural elements, either a drill with a multi-stage drill for holes, or confirmations is used. To grind the product to perfection, you need either a special nozzle for a drill.

For greater fastening strength, carpentry glue is included in the tools.

How to make a wooden table with your own hands - step by step instructions

We have selected four types of structures that you can make on your own, even with a minimum of carpentry skills. We offer you to learn about the stages of manufacturing round and rectangular table, coffee table and models for garden gazebo.

Making a wooden round table

It is easiest to make a round table top and a binder ring from either 1500 × 1500 mm and 1280 × 1280 mm. You will also need two strips of chipboard (1110 × 120 × 25 mm). We will make the legs from four wooden bars measuring 120 × 50 × 750 mm.

How to make a tabletop

How to draw a circle perfectly even? On a sheet of plywood in the center place their own thumb hands with a string attached to it with a pencil. The length of the rope from the base to the top should match the radius of the future tabletop. Holding your finger in one place, draw a circle with a pencil around the full length of the rope. It remains to cut it with a jigsaw.

The circle-underframe is cut out in a similar way.

Leg manufacturing

A round table made of wood or chipboard will look charming if done consistently. You don’t have to mess with the legs if there is no excessive originality in the plans. The bars are divided into 4 parts according to the desired table height minus the thickness of the tabletop. First, one leg is cut off, and the other three are already aligned along it.

All processing grinder carried out immediately.

Advice! Sanding should not be rushed, as the first coating with varnish will give out all the shortcomings.

Assembly of the structure and processing of the finished product

Assembly is carried out in stages. First, the strips are aligned groove into groove. Then the crosspiece of the slats is connected with the legs with confirmations, as in the figure below:

If you want to make the structure stronger, before connecting the legs to the tabletop, their upper base is smeared with glue.

Advice! Nails are not used in such work: a self-tapping screw or confirmation can be unscrewed without problems, and the connections will be much stronger.

Making a rectangular wooden kitchen table

The rectangular design is classic and very useful in everyday life: it is convenient to cook on such a table and you can comfortably dine at it.

How to make a tabletop

The tabletop made of wood for the table is made either from a whole sheet of plywood, or from individual edged boards processed to perfect smoothness.

Having fastened the boards with screws and glue, they begin to manufacture the frame.

Production of wooden legs for the table and frame

At the heart of quadrangular models is a frame. It serves to securely fix the legs, ensuring the stability of the entire structure. The tabletop is turned over, measured 3-4 cm deep on each side and the measurements are transferred to the boards. As a result, you will need two boards of smaller length and two larger ones.

The frame is made of four elements: according to the approximate ratio, these are two boards of X cm and two of 2X cm. They are overlapped with each other in turn, building a rectangle. In order not to break the angle of 90 °, any board is used while working with a screwdriver: they press the structure with it while tightening the screws.

As soon as the frame box is ready, they begin to make legs. You can take ready-made balusters for the table, buy metal supports, or cut them out of bars according to the desired length according to the drawing.

Both the frame and the legs are subject to obligatory thorough polishing!

Product assembly and finishing

The frame is screwed to the countertop with glue or self-tapping screws. Then the product is turned over and the legs begin to be attached.

Important! It is better to make holes for the screws in advance. This eliminates the possibility of splitting the tree.

Why not use nails and a hammer? Not everyone has the skills to work with a hammer - here it is dangerous not only to hit your finger. From excessive zeal, it is easy to damage the wood by splitting it. Confirmates and self-tapping screws hold the tree much stronger.

As soon as the leg is fixed, the angle is immediately checked: there should not be any deviation from 90 °. The operation is repeated with other legs. You can attach the legs directly through the countertop, but this will affect the aesthetic component of the product.

Related article:

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Making your own wooden coffee table

Not only a beautiful element of the interior, but also useful. No need to look for where to put a book, gadget, glasses, TV remote control in a conspicuous place. Such necessary structures are made from different materials: metal, glass, plastic, chipboard, wood. But let's leave other materials alone and concentrate on working with wood.

Choice wooden tabletop for the table depends on the expectation of the owner of the product. Someone wants something massive, while someone prefers lighter options. Let's go with a simple solution.

We buy five boards 30 × 150 mm and process them to perfect smoothness. We immediately saw off the desired length on the countertop: you should get 6 identical canvases. We take four bars on the legs, 6 canvases of shorter length on the lower tabletop, 4 narrow slats for the frame.

Illustration	Action Description
	For brushing wood, use a grinder with a brass brush head. The procedure will expose the structure of the tree, giving the product a special flavor.
	We pass back and forth on each board from the side that will be the front.
	We process wood with fire. The flame is gradually moved from place to place: the board will acquire a beautiful darkish tint. The procedure will finally destroy unnecessary soft wood fibers. We actively wipe the entire surface with a felt boot or a piece of felt.

We proceed to the process of assembling a small table with our own hands from wood.

1. The bottom and top tabletops are laid on the work surface with the wrong side facing you. The boards are laid tightly to each other, gluing them together. As soon as the boards grab, slats are attached to the top tabletop. They will serve as a frame and a fastening element. They can be glued or screwed with screws. The self-tapping screw is screwed in the center of the rail into each of the boards.
2. The legs are screwed to both the table top and the rails. You can use furniture corners.

Video: the process of making a wooden coffee table

Making your own wooden table with benches in the gazebo

It's time to take the time and build a garden wooden table.

It is best to take boards standard sizes. Studs are purchased at a hardware store (suitable with a length of 16 cm), washers (24 pieces). Long nails (8 cm) will fit for a garden gazebo.

To paint a product or just varnish it is already a matter of taste.

An integral attribute of every home is a dining table, at which the whole family gathers. Properly selected furniture allows households to feel comfortable in the kitchen. Undoubtedly, these requirements are met by a wooden kitchen table, which may well be made by hand.

Varieties

Before proceeding with the manufacture of such a design, you should decide what type of product you need. Among all this diversity, there are several types of kitchen tables:

1. Traditional products. Tables of this type consist of a base to which legs and tabletops are attached. Such a system is quite common, as it is relatively simple in construction and has good durability. It should be noted that there are several variations of these tables, which suggest the possibility of dismantling the legs or table top.
2. Beam structures. They are distinguished by the presence of two supports located on opposite sides of the tabletop. The width of these elements is in most cases equal to the smaller size of the top surface. The manufacture of such tables requires some experience and a well-equipped carpentry.
3. Structures without underframe. Such a table consists only of supporting legs, which are attached in a certain way to the tabletop. The whole system can be either integral or collapsible.
4. Wall folding tables consist only of a tabletop that is attached to the wall. The design is equipped with special rotary mechanisms, which allow the surface to be parallel to the floor, forming a horizontal surface. Wooden tables of this type are found only in very small kitchens where there is a need to save work space.

Choice of wood

Wood, as a material, is characterized by plasticity and pliability, but at the same time, its different species are characterized by different unique properties. Any type of this product can be used to make a kitchen table. It should be borne in mind that if you choose a tree that is too soft, then its surface will scratch and collapse faster. But such breeds are easy to work with, so it can be used if you are a beginner and solve such a problem for the first time.

In the manufacture of a table made of solid wood, many experts use wood of the following types:

1. Pine. The material is one of the softest, so products made from it must be protected with several layers of varnish.
2. Nut. Tables made of walnut board are distinguished by their considerable weight and solid structure. It is used in the case when you need to decorate the product with openwork carving.
3. Oak. This breed is one of the best options, since the substance is not only beautiful and durable, but also perfectly processed. Also, oak tables are not as prone to rotting in a humid environment.
4. Larch. The breed has unique healing properties, but during the construction of tables it is impossible to distinguish them in any way, since the material is varnished to prevent the release useful substances to the air.

Countertop manufacturing

Making a kitchen table made of wood with your own hands is quite simple, if you have the desire, some skills in working with this material and a certain tool. As already mentioned, there are many various designs of this kind, which differ in size and design. So if you want to make beautiful table independently, then you can use ready-made drawings as a basis, the style of which you can choose for your interior.

The construction process begins with the construction of the countertop.

This process can be divided into several successive stages:

1. Initially, you need to decide on the size of the countertop and purchase the required number of boards. Their width can be different, the main thing is that they add up to the value you need.
2. When the material is ready, you need to adjust the size of all the boards to the required length of the countertop. Try to cut the ends at an angle of exactly 90 degrees. Then all the elements are carefully aligned and polished with a planer. Note that the thickness must also be adjusted to a single value, since it determines how flat the plane will be.
3. The boards are connected to each other with the help of dowels. To do this, on each element, through equal segments, mark the location of the fastener, and drill holes for it at the end. To obtain a strong connection, the surface of the dowels or holes can be coated with glue.

There is an alternative connection method, which involves fastening from the underside of the plank top. It is located across all the boards that need to be nailed to it.

Construction assembly

The installation process of this design involves the preliminary formation of the frame:

• First of all, the previously prepared legs are interconnected in pairs by short boards. They also need to be sanded and given a beautiful appearance. Fastening is also done with the help of dowels, under which you need to drill holes in the legs and the bar.

If it is difficult for you to combine them, then you can use special corners.

• After that, the two resulting pairs of supports are connected in a similar way with long boards.

• The process of constructing the product is completed by attaching the countertop to the resulting frame. Please note that if you use glue for bonding, then before assembling, you must definitely wait until the composition dries.

When the design is ready, you can begin to cover it with protective compounds.

For such purposes, you can use regular paint and lacquer. The latter option is more preferable, since it does not spoil the appearance of the surface even after it is repainted.

One of the simple types of furniture that you can make yourself is a table. For a summer residence, the simplest option is suitable. For a kitchen worth exploring existing options to make a table suitable for the general interior. Below are the options for tables with drawings, manufacturing instructions.

Table dimensions are optimal for the kitchen

Before you start making a kitchen table, you need to decide on its size. In doing so, several factors should be taken into account. The size of the table is directly affected by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe kitchen and the place where it will be located. It should harmoniously fit in the kitchen, be roomy, not interfere with cooking, and fully perform its function in the process of eating.

In order for a person to feel comfortable at the table, his personal space should be at least 70 cm, that is, there should be no one within a radius of 30 cm. For a family of four, a 90x90 cm or 100x100 cm table would be optimal if it can be moved away from the wall or placed in the middle so that everyone has their own side.

If it is impossible to move the table, and the dimensions of the kitchen do not allow the table to be placed in the middle, you can install a rectangular table with a side length of 120 cm, a short side of 70 or 85 cm.

If the size of the kitchen allows, then it is better to install a large dining table with side dimensions of 160, 180 cm, short - 90 cm. It will be free to sit at such a table on ordinary days, and during events with guests it can accommodate 10-12 people.

For small kitchens for receiving guests, a transforming or sliding table will come to the rescue. In such furniture, inserts with a width of 40 to 50 cm are provided, which are inserted into the middle of the table. There can be up to three inserts, they are usually hidden under the countertop. The length of the sliding structure can reach 280 cm, when folded - 180 cm.

The height of the table depends on the size of the people sitting at it: height and build. Usually they are made with a height of 700 mm, but options from 60 to 80 cm are possible. When choosing a table, you need to consider its location. When moving the hostess in the kitchen, she should not be disturbed by those sitting at the table.

What role do the legs play and their number?

Determining the size of the table, you should pay attention to the type and number of legs. There may be a different number of them:

• One massive leg is suitable for products of small sizes. More often these are tables for gazebos, children's, small-sized kitchens. For stability, they make a reliable cruciform harness that can cope with heavy loads.
• Two massive legs are used for oval and rectangular tables. They are installed on optimal distance from each other. Usually such legs are narrow at the top and widen towards the bottom. They are convenient in that people sitting at the table do not collide with legs.
• The most popular dining table is a rectangular shape with four legs. This is convenient for the folding option. No need to come up with any complex designs and do specific calculations. The table is quite stable and reliable if the length and dimensions of the legs are correctly calculated. They must be the same so that the table does not stagger or warp during use.

The legs for the table can be tightly fastened to the drawers, or they can be detachable. The second option is convenient for storage and transportation of the product. The countertop in this case must be reliable. True, the design of a table with detachable legs is more complicated.

Tree selection - species characteristics

There are currently many building materials from which you can build a kitchen table. But the most affordable and reliable option is wood. A do-it-yourself wooden kitchen table can be made by a person with minimal carpentry experience. It is important to choose the right tree that is suitable for this.

From the choice of material for the countertop depends on its durability, resistance to mechanical damage, decay.

Wood varies in density, it can be soft, hard and the hardest. Softwood tops may have scratches or marks, although this depends on how the table is used. Hard rocks are more difficult to process.

Soft breeds are often used: spruce, poplar, alder, pine, fir, cedar, juniper, horse chestnut. Hardwoods are: birch, oak, fruit trees (plum, apple, quince), walnut, elm, ash, maple. The hardest varieties include: yew, dogwood, acacia, boxwood, iron (stone) birch.

The best option for the kitchen is oak. It is durable, strong, easy to process, varnished, not resistant to decay and deformation, ideal for wet rooms. Larch has healing properties, but since it has to be treated with protective substances, it releases healing phytoncides to a lesser extent. Juniper is not used, as there is little of it left in nature. horse chestnut used for landscaping.

For countertops, it is best to use walnut, pine, oak, wenge, for legs - birch, for dowels - boxwood and acacia. Countertops can be made from laminated chipboard, plywood, MDF. The ends of these materials are covered with melamine film or special PVC. These materials are less strong and durable, not as environmentally friendly as solid wood, but are easy to process and have a low cost.

Table models - types and configurations

By design, there are four types of kitchen tables that you can make yourself: regular, folding, sliding and prefabricated.

A regular table can be oval, rectangular or round. This is the simplest option in terms of design, but its manufacturing technology is not so simple. There are many nuances associated with the ability to use carpentry tools. It is necessary not only to correctly assemble the product, but also to decorate it beautifully. The next step is varnishing.

Round tables are suitable for large kitchens and living rooms, they are located in the center of the room. The main problem is that they take up more space. You can’t put them against the wall, because in order to sit at a round table, you need free space. Round form tabletops makes it possible to vary the number of legs: there can be one, two, three or four. The option with two legs is not suitable, since this design is not stable. You can install a round table in a small kitchen, then the countertop should be no more than 90 cm.

For compact kitchens, a small oval table is suitable, which is conveniently placed in a soft kitchen corner. A more common option is a medium or large table that fits well in the average apartment. At the same time, a lot of people can sit behind him. If the dimensions of the room do not allow you to install a large oval table, you can resort to a sliding option. When folded, it can even have a round shape.

The transforming table is most often a compact bedside table that can be attached to the wall. They occupy no more than 60 cm. From 10 to 15 people can fit at the unfolded table. To make a transformer table, you will need special tools and the ability to use them. Therefore, it is difficult to make it yourself.

by the most simple option homemade table is a book table. It is easier to make it from laminated chipboard, the sawing of which can be ordered at a special factory. From the finished parts, you can independently assemble the table. Parts of the tabletop are attached with hinges. You can take wood as the material of manufacture, but this will complicate the process.

The sliding version is also easy to manufacture. A feature of such a table is that its dimensions increase due to the insertion of an additional panel into the middle of the tabletop. To do this, you need to push the two halves of the countertop and insert a panel between them. The parts are connected with wooden dowels. Sliding mechanisms may have different design. Older models did not have roller guides or full rollback, so you had to make an effort to push the tabletop apart, as the wooden parts rubbed together.

In modern models, a special mechanism is used to ensure that parts are rolled out without damage. wooden surfaces. The simplest version of the mechanism is two metal guides, which can be used as furniture slides for drawers. Additional sections are folded to be stored under the tabletop. To fix them, you can make special fasteners.

In factory sliding tables, additional sections connected by hinges are folded and hidden under the tabletop thanks to a special mechanism. To do this, the table has an additional false tabletop with a hole in the middle.

A folding table is a tabletop with a pair of folding legs, which is attached with hinges to a wall or furniture. The greatest difficulty is the manufacture of folding legs. Although there are ready-made options for such legs, which can be purchased at stores selling furniture fittings.

Organization of the workplace - selection of materials and tools

For joinery work, you need to choose a special room, since a lot of dust and debris are generated during work. Wood requires treatment with special protective substances that emit harmful fumes, so the room should be well ventilated, it is better to organize a forced operation. You can work in the garage, but the presence of sawdust and dust will not have the best effect on the car. The best option is a barn. If it is not there, then it can be built - it will be useful in economic activities in the future.

Having found a room, you need to prepare the necessary carpentry tools and related materials:

• plane;
• hacksaw;
• drill;
• jigsaw;
• fastening tool;
• carpenter's hammer;
• mallet;
• chisel;
• bit;
• milling machine;
• grinder;
• sandpaper;
• paint brush;
• wooden boards;
• corners;

In addition to carpentry tools, it is necessary to prepare measuring tools: a ruler, square, pencil or marker, construction tape.

To produce a countertop, you need to prepare a furniture board with a thickness of 4 to 5 cm, a width of 60 to 80 cm. The length is selected based on personal preferences, usually it ranges from 120 to 140 cm. boards. The boards must be glued together or connected in another way.

For the legs you need to prepare a square bar. The most suitable beam is 60x60 cm or 70x70 cm in size. Ready-made curly legs can be purchased in specialized stores. To stiffen the structure, you need to purchase a beam with a section of 40x40 cm and a length equal to the size of the countertop around the perimeter.

It is possible to protect wood from decay for the entire service life by treating it with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE). It is necessary to process the parts twice with a break of 3-5 days. After WPE treatment, even birch plywood does not delaminate and becomes suitable for front panels.

Nitrocellulose furniture varnishes are being replaced by water-based acrylic varnishes, which are safer to use and have best performance. This also applies to glue. PVA gradually replaces wood glue and BF-2. True, it must be applied to both sides in contact and left connected until drunk under the yoke of 1-3 days, but for use at home this is acceptable.

Furniture blanks can be pre-protected and tinted with a stain or painted with special paints with a lacquer base or non-paint oil and water-based lacquer dyes. The starter from varnish and paint is prepared in advance, stored in a tightly closed container, and then added to the varnish until the desired tone is obtained. Colored varnishes are mixed on oil paints and NC according to the rules for mixing paints for painting. Acrylic paints can be mixed without restrictions.

Start of work - drawings, preparation of parts

Before you start making your own dining table, you need to carefully consider what it will be like: shape, dimensions, design, technological solutions. At the design stage, the appearance of the table and the degree of its convenience are determined. It should harmoniously fit into the kitchen space, not interfere with the movement of people, fully fulfill its main function - accommodating people for eating.

Before making a table, you need to draw a sketch and create a diagram according to which the components will be assembled. You can use ready-made options, choose the most suitable one and be guided by it. But if you want to show your imagination, you can create your own individual sketch, make the appropriate calculations and diagrams. It is important not to make mistakes in the calculations in order to get a reliable, durable and stable design.

Below are the finished drawings with dimensions.

During the manufacturing process, any wooden structure need to get the details ready. To do this, follow these steps:

• Canvas preparation. It needs to be sanded, cleaned, treated with antiseptics and fire retardants to protect it from moisture, fire and decay.
• If wood cuts are used for the table, then they must have optimal moisture content. They must be carefully reviewed before use. If there are cracks, they must be carefully repaired.
• The main details of the table: tabletop, legs and stopper are transferred from the sketch to the canvas, and then cut out.
• Details that are designed for support legs and slats are made 3 cm shorter. On the legs you need to make horizontal cuts on each side. Processing depends on the type of fastening of the legs to the table top.

When all the elements are ready, you can start assembling the table. If a more complex design is provided, then additional parts and mechanisms must be prepared.

We fasten the legs in pairs with short jumpers. To do this, we drill two inclined holes on the inside of the crossbars. When drilling, be careful not to damage the legs. We fasten the structure with self-tapping screws, screwing them through the legs and bars. Then we fasten the legs with long jumpers. We also twist the elements with self-tapping screws. It is better to fasten the legs to the table top with bolts, having drilled the appropriate holes in advance.

We make the main element of the table - the countertop

Particular attention should be paid to the main element of the table - the table top. It must be reliable and durable. The reinforcing bar should be mounted exactly according to the markup, taking into account the location of the legs.

The best option is to buy a finished postforming countertop. Manufacturers offer slabs with a wide selection of textures, sizes and colors. Postforming is a profiled laminated chipboard with rounded ribs. The advantages of using such a stove for the kitchen are as follows:

• High wear resistance, resistance to mechanical damage and high temperatures.
• The postformed worktop has a drip tray where dirt collects and is easy to remove. This ensures high hygiene.
• There is no need for edging the slab, which is a labor-intensive process.
• Ease of processing. If it is necessary to saw the postforming, then it is processed in the same way as wood or chipboard.
• Thanks to the rounded ribs, mechanical stresses are distributed evenly over the entire tabletop, which is important if the table is made with a load-bearing tabletop.

The use of postforming simplifies and speeds up the manufacture of the table, but solid wood or a furniture panel looks more solid.

If it was not possible to purchase a finished countertop, you can make a typesetting with your own hands. To do this, you need a long jointer and a hand mill. It is better, of course, to perform processing on milling and jointing machines. With absence necessary tools, parts can be ordered from the carpenter's shop, providing exact dimensions.

Making a countertop consists of the following steps:

1. 1. Prepared boards must be adjusted to the required size so that they are the same width and length.
2. 2. Next, lay out the boards on the work surface like brickwork: the middle of each board fell on the junction of the previous ones.
3. 3. When the material is laid out, you can start making the countertop. Mating surfaces should be well machined and sanded. Then we glue the rows of boards with wood glue or PVA and three clamps. You can glue up to 6 rows at a time. Leave blanks to dry completely.
4. 4. Then we remove the irregularities with a planer and grind the surfaces with medium and fine-grained sandpaper. We remove the chamfers and round the corners.

An interesting version of the countertop, decorated with furniture tiles or a block of solid wood. To do this, using manual milling or a chisel, a cavity is made with a depth equal to the thickness of the tile. Along the perimeter of the tabletop, you need to leave a side with a height of about 50-10 mm. A tile is glued onto the prepared surface with glue. To make the structure stronger, a bar is attached to the perimeter with self-tapping screws.

Assembling a table from a tabletop, legs and jumpers

Below is the assembly simple table for a kitchen with a worktop, the manufacture of which is described above. In addition to the tabletop, you need to make 4 parts for the legs.

In each manufactured element, we drill holes into which the fastening bolts will be inserted. On the vertical and horizontal parts of the supports, the holes must exactly match each other so that they can be screwed together. For the manufacture of supports, plywood or OSB with a thickness of about 16 cm can be used.

To make the structure durable, we mount a jumper between the legs, it will prevent them from moving apart. The jumper can be made from the same material from which the countertop was made. At first, it does not need to be fixed. This can be done when the table is fully assembled by screwing in one self-tapping screw from each end of the vertical support. Next, install the brackets for the legs and additionally fasten the countertop with bars. Brackets for better aesthetic perception can also be made from OSB or plywood.

To give the table an external massive look, we mount a frame for sheathing the tabletop with a frame. To do this, we fasten the rail around the perimeter, screwing it with self-tapping screws. In the rail, pre-drill holes at a distance of 30 cm from each other for furniture dowels(chopikov). When the slats are screwed, we insert dowels into the holes around the perimeter of the tabletop. We ennoble the countertop along the perimeter with a solid wood rail, the thickness of which should be about 3 cm. It is put on the dowels, having previously applied glue to the adjoining sides. Next, turn the finished countertop over and attach the legs to it, which we fix with bolts.

After complete assembly, all fasteners should be checked. There should be no backlash anywhere.

The advantage of this prefabricated structure is that it is easy to disassemble and reassemble. This is useful when updating the table. Having disassembled the table, the old coating can be removed from each part, sanded and varnished or painted again.

Guiding the external beauty of the table - finishing

All wooden parts that will be used to assemble the table must be carefully sanded and polished so that the surface is perfectly smooth. This makes it possible to emphasize the natural beauty and texture. To make a dining table, you need to take high-quality wood that can withstand the load. If the wood has defects, they can be leveled, puttied and decorated with acrylic paint.

When the table is fully assembled, you need to give it a beautiful appearance. This is achieved by coating it with stain and varnish, and the more layers of varnish are applied, the more beautiful the wooden product will look. Lucky serve additional protection for wooden parts from mechanical damage, premature aging, allow you to extend the life of the product.

Painting work is carried out in stages. Before applying varnish or paint, the work surface must be cleaned of dust and dirt. Then stain or varnish is applied. By adding dyes, the varnish can be given a certain shade. Dry the wood after coating the varnish should be at room temperature.

The table can be painted, pre-treated with a primer. The choice of color depends on personal preference. It is important that the kitchen table is in harmony with the overall decor. It is better to choose a water-based paint, it dries well and is almost odorless.

In order for wooden furniture to serve for a long time and have a beautiful appearance, it needs to be looked after. Furniture with a polished or lacquered surface requires more careful care, as scratches can easily appear on it. Poorly tolerates such furniture contact with hot. For care, universal polishing compositions are used. Plastic-coated chipboard and MDF countertops can be washed with detergents.

A do-it-yourself dining table can become the pride of the owner, as he puts his soul into it when making it. In a company sitting at such a table, a sincere and warm atmosphere is created.

Table - furniture without which you can not do either in the city or in the country. The table can be placed on the veranda, in the gazebo or just in shady place. Behind him you can dine, arrange feasts or play board games in the fresh air. Inexpensive, you can only buy a plastic, not large table, a large wooden table for giving is cheaper to do it yourself. The article will present three options for tables and drawings for their manufacture.

Table dimensions and construction features

The optimal size of the tabletop for a summer house is 80x120 cm. A smaller table will be significantly inferior in functionality, a large table will be too bulky and it will be difficult to clean it for the winter. The size of the table 80x120 cm will allow you to hold solemn feasts with the number of participants 8 - 10 people.

A table for a summer residence is easiest to make from boards. Moreover, it is the most affordable inexpensive material. The advantage of making a table out of wood is that the boards can be sawn into right size at any construction base, and bring it to the dacha without any problems, thereby saving on transportation. It should be noted that with a table dimensions of 75x80x120 cm, the longest board will be a table top board 120 cm long. A board of this length will fit into almost any car.

There are a lot of varieties of table designs, but by and large the difference is only in the form of legs on which the table top rests. Therefore, the legs of the table are the most complex element of the entire structure.

Table top

The tabletop at the table in the country is made of boards. The thickness of the boards can be from 30 to 50 mm. but the best option is a board 40 mm thick.

An important point is cutting boards. With a worktop length of 120 cm, you need 5.3 boards 150 mm wide, 6.6 boards 120 mm wide and 8 boards 100 mm wide. Considering that the boards are sold with a length of just over 6 m, it is advisable to choose a board with a width of 100 mm for the countertop.

By choosing a board with a width of 100 mm, you will not have to adjust or resize the table top, which will greatly simplify the work on setting up the table. In addition, there will be 2 more boards 120 mm long, which can be used for other parts.

If you can’t get the right board, you can make the countertop not solid, but at intervals. Such a countertop will look no less interesting. At the same time, water that can accumulate on a table with a solid top will drain through the gaps between the boards.

Table with straight legs

Table with straight legs simple design country table. It's sustainable comfortable table which will serve well both indoors and outdoors.

Fig.1.

The legs for the table consist of 4 elements, 2 vertical posts and 2 horizontal ones. The upper horizontal rack is attached to the tabletop, the lower one is a support.

Fig.2.

Leg design may vary. For example, instead of resting on the bottom board, you can make sure that the support is on vertical posts, and the bottom board can be made as an additional one for strength.

Pay attention to this design, the connection of the boards is carried out without additional grooves. This greatly simplifies the assembly of the table. In order for all elements to be well fixed, it is necessary to glue all joints with wood glue. In this case, the boards can be connected with self-tapping screws.

Fig.3.

• Collect legs. To do this, you need to saw according to the drawing of the board. Treat the joints with glue and tighten with self-tapping screws or a confirmant.
• On a flat area, lay out the boards for the table top, mark the position of the legs and fix the boards of the table top through the top bar of the legs.
• Install a horizontal tie between the legs.
• Wait 2 - 3 hours until the glue dries and clean the table from burrs and sharp edges.
• Next, the table can be varnished. Or just treat with an antiseptic.

Table with X shaped legs

A table with X-shaped legs is essentially not much different from a table with straight legs, it just has a different shape of the legs. However, it is impossible to manufacture without creating additional grooves on the legs. This makes the job a little more difficult.

Fig.4.

Table legs consist of 3 elements. Two crossed supports and a vertical top bar. The top bar, as in the previous case, is necessary for fixing the tabletop.

Fig.5.

To connect the legs in inclined supports, it is necessary to make a slot in the floor of the board.

Fig.6.

The assembly order of the table is as follows:

• Cut the boards to the required length.
• In the legs make a groove in the floor of the board. The groove can be made with a jigsaw or a milling cutter.
• Collect legs. The connections are glued. Parts are fastened with self-tapping screws.
• The tabletop boards are laid out and the assembled legs are attached to them.
• Install the bottom screed board.
• Treat the table from burrs and varnish.

Table with benches

A table with benches is quite often installed on verandas or in the open air. Unlike the designs described above, it does not require additional benches or chairs, the benches are included in the design of the table.

Fig.7.

The disadvantage of this version of the table for the country house is that the design turns out to be rather cumbersome, and it becomes very problematic to remove it for the winter.

Fig.8.

The design feature of the table is that the benches are fixed directly on the legs of the table. The crossbars on which the benches are attached are at the same time a coupler of the legs, and the benches play the role of a longitudinal coupler.

Fig.9.

The assembly order of the table with benches is as follows:

• Cut boards to desired length.
• Assemble the legs and support for the flooring of the bench. The joints are glued and tightened with self-tapping screws.
• Mark the boards for the countertop and mount them to the legs.
• Fix benches.
• Treated with impregnation or antiseptic.

Examples of tables for giving

Fig.10.

Fig.11.

Fig.12.

Fig.13.

Fig.14.

Fig.15.

Fig.16.

Fig.17.