Do-it-yourself frame garage: budget construction. Do-it-yourself frame garage: step-by-step instructions with a photo report Choice of construction technology

A 6x4 garage is currently the best solution for storing a modern car. On the one hand, such a garage allows you to freely open the car doors and even equip a small workplace. On the other hand, a 6x4 garage remains a fairly economical solution and requires a relatively small amount of building materials for construction. That is, not crowded, and no frills.

Garage 6x4 - plan

DIY wooden garage 6x4

Perhaps the most affordable is a do-it-yourself wooden 6x4 garage. It does not require any specific tools and skills to assemble it, at least if you are going to build a 6x4 wood frame garage. A garage made of timber or logs is a separate conversation. I will immediately explain why.

Garage from bursa or rounded bren

Garage from bursa or logs:

Mounted on a fairly strong foundation;
It is assembled using technology that is not familiar to everyone;
Requires compliance with a long technological pause for the time of shrinkage.

In addition, timber and rounded logs are a rather expensive material. For example, in the Moscow region, it is more profitable to build a 6x4 frame garage. But there are regions in the Russian Federation where wood is the most affordable building material. There, on the contrary, it is a 6x4 wooden garage, no matter if it is a frame, made of timber or logs, simply does not have a competitive alternative. This is due to the availability of cheap local wood and the high cost of delivery of building materials due to the remote location.

Frame wooden garage 6x4 - the most affordable option for remote areas.

Frame wooden garage 6x4

Wooden garage 6x4, made according to frame technology, affordable, and can be built by hand. The foundation can be used pile or slab, assembling the frame and sheathing it with chipboard is a simple matter. If you attended labor lessons at school, then you probably know how to saw, drill, twist, use a tape measure and set the vertical and horizontal using a level and a plumb line.

Of course, if you decide to build a wood frame garage, you will have to deal with things like working with hydro and vapor barriers, laying the roof, etc. Here you will need to familiarize yourself with the features of the technology in advance and watch several training videos. But in principle - nothing complicated.

A 6x4 metal garage is more attractive than a wooden one, if only because it usually provides Better conditions for car storage. What is good for a person is not always good for a car.

Garage 4x6 profile frame

Everyone knows that in wooden house breathe well. It really is wooden walls breathable, but the level of humidity also plays an important role here. In a wooden house, it is usually much higher than in a concrete high-rise building. It's good for residents. But a car stored in wooden garage, a high level of humidity, on the contrary, is harmful. Frame garage, if it is built according to technology, using hydro and vapor barrier, equip ventilation system, will be dry. But all this, of course, is reflected in the price.

Cold frame metal garage (garage 4x6 profile frame)

But let's get back to the subject of discussion, this is a 6x4 metal garage. If it is assembled correctly, dampness can only get into it through open gates or through the floor or foundation. The path of dampness coming from the ground will easily block the waterproofing layer. But the main thing is that you can simply buy a 6x4 metal garage ready for installation, and simply assemble it as a constructor.

capital garage

There are times when you need a capital garage. For example, you need to ensure high burglary resistance garage. This may be relevant if the garage is located far from home and is not guarded, in disadvantaged areas, when storing especially valuable cars. Then you need to use concrete, bricks or building blocks. But I will talk about the construction of such garages next time.

The question of building a garage arises for all motorists - owners of private houses, if the conditions of the site provide such an opportunity. True, it often happens that the construction of this necessary adjoining building is postponed “until better times” due to the apparent length and laboriousness of the process, as well as the high cost of building materials. However, there is a simple way out: you can build do-it-yourself frame garage, in just a few days and at the lowest cost - this will be the best option.

It is quite possible to build such a structure even independently. But the process will take much less time if, when planning the creation of a frame garage, you can find a skilled assistant with experience in the art of building, so that he is not only “always on the hook”, but can also warn against mistakes and inaccuracies.

Benefits of frame construction

As you know, in recent years, construction technology has become very widely practiced. frame houses, which, when used quality materials, proper installation of the frame and, perfectly replace cold stone walls. So, why not try to build a frame garage?

A reliable foundation and high-quality fastening of the frame elements will make such a garage no less practical and durable than brick or block buildings.

So, the advantages of the frame structure include the following points:

Ease of installation and the ability to do the work yourself will save a lot of money, which, otherwise, will be spent on paying for the work of the construction team.
The ability to build a garage in a short time is also a tangible savings in effort and money.
The relatively affordable price for building materials necessary for work is depending on the specifics of the future garage.
The small volume and weight of building materials will make it possible to do without the involvement of specialized equipment for construction work, and will reduce transportation costs.
The construction of a frame garage can be carried out both from wood and from metal, at the choice of the car owner.

The main stages of work on the construction of a frame garage

If we talk about the procedure for performing the construction of a garage, then it differs little from the construction small house and includes several steps:

Preparing a site for construction - clearing a construction site.
Digging a pit.
Foundation creation.
Marking and assembling the frame of the walls.
Creation of a roof structure.
Wall insulation and cladding work.
Mounting garage doors.

So, in order to understand each of the processes, they need to be considered in more detail.

Site preparation

This stage of work includes several measures that must be carried out with high quality, since the evenness of the foundation, and, as a result, the entire building will depend on them.

Having chosen a site for construction, its perimeter is marked out, and then well leveled. The site should be 500 ÷ 600 mm larger than the garage perimeter on each side - this distance is necessary for the blind area. The marked area must be cleared of the top fertile soil layer by 150÷200 mm. Such work can be carried out using special equipment or manually.

The second option, of course, will slow down the process, but it will help save a decent amount, since calling a technician is quite expensive. Manually, the soil is removed using two shovels - a bayonet and a shovel. With the help of a bayonet shovel, the boundary and depth of the soil layer for removal is outlined, with the same tools it is trimmed and crushed. After that, the soil can be easily removed with a shovel, while simultaneously carrying out planning - leveling.

After the site is cleared of the soil layer, the soil must be well compacted with a manual rammer or roller.

Foundation for frame structure

The next step in the prepared area is to make markings for the foundation of the garage. You can choose any foundation for the frame structure, since the building will not be excessively massive and will not give a large load to the base. True, it is also necessary to take into account the mass of the car, as well as all the internal equipment of the garage. Of the existing types of foundation, in this case, strip or slab foundations are preferable, but columnar or pile foundations are also used.

According to the selected dimensions, it is necessary to outline the corner points of the perimeter of the base under the walls. For all types of foundation, the corners are marked, in principle, the same way, but their internal arrangement is already somewhat different from each other.

Work on marking the boundaries of the foundation is carried out in the following order:

- One of the corner points is outlined, in accordance with the binding to other objects on the site.

- At this point, marking cast-offs are installed - simple devices made of stakes and a crossbar board.

- The cords are stretched along one and the other side of the future foundation for the entire length of the wall and fixed on the cast-offs on the opposite side.

- Then, in the same way, the approximate location of the last corner is determined, which is also connected by cords to two adjacent corners.

- Now you need to achieve straightness of the corners. The crossbar of the cast-off makes it possible to move the fixation point of the cord on it within certain limits. To achieve exact perpendicularity of the sides, the rule of the "Egyptian triangle" is usually applied: sides that are multiples of 3, 4 and 5 will always create a right angle. Such a triangle can be laid out from long even rails, reinforcing bars, or even from a strong, non-stretching rope (cord).

Such a triangle should not be made too small - the probability of error is high. You can, for example, take "n" for 0.5, then the sides will be 1.5, 2 and 2.5 meters, which will be convenient and accurate.

- You can finally verify the correctness of the rectangle by measuring and comparing the diagonals - they must be the same length.

- If it will be equipped, then the internal platform for the foundation is additionally marked out to determine the location of each of the supports - this process is carried out approximately as shown in the above illustration. At the intersection of stretched cords, pits for poles will be located.

Column foundation in the arrangement seems much simpler than others, and it is quite possible to do it yourself without resorting to outside help. This design is more often chosen if it is planned to lay a plank floor in the garage, which is most often mounted in a wooden frame garage.

The columnar foundation can be made in different ways and from various materials- it is reinforced concrete, brick, concrete blocks or a combined design option. But for a garage, it cannot be called a completely optimal solution. A powerful boardwalk is required so that it can withstand the considerable weight of the car, and the issue of equipment for entering the premises - the entrance ramp - is also acute. However, for a light frame structure, especially when the problem of construction time is acute, all these difficulties do not look excessive.

great for placing a frame structure on it. In manufacturing, it is more complicated, it requires not only the installation of formwork, but also reinforcement in compliance with technological rules. Construction will take more time, taking into account the expectation of solidification and maturation of concrete, which means that the process of building a garage will drag on for a longer period.

However, the strip foundation has its advantages. There remain ample opportunities to create a viewing hole equipped according to all the rules. The floor of the garage can be made both wooden and concrete. When choosing a wooden flooring for logs under it inside the strip foundation, you will have to make additional supports, in the form of concrete or brick pillars, or dug in the marked places processed bituminous mastic wooden beams.

Prices for bituminous mastic

bituminous mastic

often considered (not quite rightly) the most difficult to arrange, since it will be necessary to create a system of compacted layers from various materials before pouring the slab itself.

This type of foundation turns out to be quite expensive in price, if we compare it in terms of the amount of material and labor intensity of work with the first two options. However, we must not forget that at the same time a ready-made reliable garage floor is being created, which is distinguished by enviable durability. Even if the frame structure is planned to be replaced with the main walls of the garage over time, then the slab foundation is perfect for this.

We will not pay more attention to foundation issues - a lot of information is contained on other pages of the site.

Self-construction of the foundation - how to do it right?

If there is no building experience in this area, then you must first "take a course." Details on how it is created - from calculations (there are built-in calculators) to practical implementation, are described in a special publication of our portal.

garage frame

The frame of the building can be made of timber, a metal profile, or these materials are combined with each other. The construction of the wall frame can be divided into several stages:

Installation of the lower frame trim.
Assembly and lifting of vertical frame structures of walls.
Fastening the top harness.
Sheathing, additionally strengthening the frame structure.
Installation of the frame structure of the roof.

Installation of the frame structure is required to be carried out according to a pre-drawn drawing, on which all dimensions are affixed. It is best to prepare parts of the same size in advance and put them in separate piles, writing the parameters and the area of \u200b\u200bthe frame on them - this will significantly save time during assembly work.

Bottom trim

So, when assembling the frame, the first step is to lay a waterproofing material on the finished foundation. Most often, ruberoid is used for this purpose. This is necessary to preserve the wooden elements of the frame from direct exposure to moisture, and metal - from the appearance of corrosive processes. Such a “cut-off” does not allow moisture to spread capillarily from the foundation walls from the ground during the melting of snow or rains.

Further, on the surface of the foundation pillars, on a concrete tape or along the marked lines on a slab base around the perimeter, it is laid and fixed wooden beam 120x120, 120x150 or 150x150mm, board 50x120 or 50x150mm. During installation metal frame a steel channel is used or profile pipe with a square section of 100 × 100 mm.

Wooden strapping elements may have different connections at the corners. The beam is most often fastened into half a tree.

When using boards laid in two layers, which form the thickness of the strapping, the shape of the connection can also be called half a tree, but it is formed using a "bandage" at the corners,

The wooden parts of the strapping are fixed with the help of anchor screws or on studs that are pre-embedded in the surface of the foundation.

Metal parts, both pipe and channel, are connected at the corners by welding.

If the strapping is installed on a columnar foundation, or on a strip foundation, but when it is further planned to lay a wooden floor in the garage, then inside the frame, the strappings are installed on the edge of the log board.

Logs are necessary not only to fix the floor boards - they will also make the lower part of the frame base more rigid and durable.

Installation of the wall frame

The wall frame can be assembled in two ways:

- Directly at the place of its installation, that is, each element of the frame is installed separately and fixed in a common vertical wall structure. This option is most often used in the assembly of wooden structures.

- The frame of each of the walls is assembled on the ground in a horizontal position and only then, in the assembled form, is exposed and fixed on the strapping vertically. This method is convenient especially when, during assembly, for example, metal structures, additional devices are used - conductors, which facilitate the precise execution of assembly and welding work.

The vertical and horizontal parts of the wall frame are usually made of a profile pipe or beam 60 × 60 mm, as well as boards 30 × 120 or 30 × 150 mm, depending on the selected parameters of the lower trim and on the planned thickness of the insulation.

Metal and wood can be combined quite well. So, for example, the bottom trim can be made of timber, and the frame for the walls is made only of a square pipe. The convenience of this approach lies in the ease of fixing metal racks on a wooden base.

Upper frame trim

The upper strapping of the structure must rigidly tie the frame of the walls into a single structure and give it strength. For the upper trim, a beam or pipe is used, which will correspond to the size of the wall frame elements.

cutting board prices

edged board

For example, if boards 120 mm wide were used as vertical posts, then the strapping can be made from a board of the same width, laid in two layers, or a beam, for example, 60 × 120 mm.

This illustration shows a variant of the upper trim, made of two layers of board, with a width and thickness equal to the parameters of the vertical racks of the structure.

Primary frame cladding

To immediately strengthen the frame of the walls, it should be sheathed from the outside or from the inside. sheet material(plywood, OSB sheets, corrugated board).

At this stage of work, it will be enough to fix the sheets only on one side of the frame walls, since the sheathing in this case is needed to strengthen the structure. The completion of this process is carried out after the roofing material has been fixed. If further warming of the building is planned from the inside, then the sheathing is done from the outside, but sometimes they do the opposite.

Frame garage floors

The roof of the garage can be single-pitched or double-pitched. The second design option is more complex, but it allows you to equip an attic space or just an under-roof space for storing various tools and materials needed both for car repairs and in the household.

The arrangement of the roof consists of several stages of work:

- Production of a truss system for a single-pitched or double-pitched roof.

- Covering the roof slopes with plywood sheets or installing the necessary sparse crates.

- Flooring roofing material.

gable roof

garage floor

A wooden floor is best installed when the roof is covered and the walls are already sheathed. This way you can keep the boards from getting wet in case of unexpected rain. For the floor, a non-grooved board is most often used, since it is necessary to give the wood the opportunity to change its state under the influence of temperature and moisture.

A small temperature gap of 3 to 5 mm is left between the flooring boards - it will keep the wood from deformation.

The boards are fixed on the logs, and are most often fixed with nails or self-tapping screws.

If a slab foundation was used, then the floor is almost ready. True, it is recommended to immediately treat a flat concrete surface with a special deep penetration strengthening primer, which will fasten the upper layers of concrete, strengthen them, and give additional hydrophobic qualities. Such a floor can be painted, lined ceramic tiles or left as is.

In the same case, when a strip foundation is selected for the garage, above the creation concrete screed there is still some serious work to be done.

How to concrete the floor in the garage?

A concrete floor for a garage is probably the best option in terms of strength and practicality. The nuances are covered in detail in a special publication of our portal.

Frame garage insulation

The heat-insulating material can be mounted in the frame structure from the outside or inside, depending on which side the primary wall cladding with sheet material has already been made. In any case, the insulation must be located between the two layers of cladding.

Garage exterior cladding

For wall cladding outside different materials are used, and the choice depends on the financial capabilities and preferences of the garage owner.

The most popular finishes are metallic or vinyl siding or siding panels, as well as sheets of wall corrugated board.

The professional flooring has quite affordable price, easily mounted on the frame and perfectly protects the walls from moisture, mechanical loads and ultraviolet radiation. The sheets are relatively light in weight, so their installation can be done independently, not only on a frame made of profile pipes, but also on a wooden beam.

Garage Doors

On the frame structure of the garage, you can install gates of different designs - sectional, roller shutter, up-and-over and swing.

The easiest for self-manufacturing are hinged double-leaf gates, and the rest of the structures, as a rule, are manufactured and installed by experienced craftsmen.

swing gate made of metal and/or wood. To create a frame frame, a profile pipe or beam is used, which is sheathed with metal sheets, corrugated board, siding or just a board. Such gates are not difficult to manufacture if they are made according to exactly the dimensions taken from the opening. Such a design will cost inexpensively, and when it is insulated it will become a reliable barrier to cold in winter period, which is extremely necessary if the owner of the building plans to equip it with a small heated workshop. The width of the gate is from 2.5 to 4 meters, but if they need to be made wider, then when drawing up a drawing of the future frame, this moment must be foreseen in advance.

In addition to the material for the frame and its sheathing, for the manufacture of the gate, you will need powerful hinged hinges for two leaves, that is, 4 pieces, and for a door located in one of the halves and opening separately - 2 more pieces. To securely close the garage, a lock is purchased that is completely hidden behind the panel front door, and there is only a small hole for the key to enter.

Sheathed with sheet steel, they will be excessively massive for a frame garage, and they are not really needed for such a design.

Easier to assemble wooden gate, or at least sheathe them with light corrugated board or siding, to match all the other walls of the garage.

Examples of building a frame garage - step by step

Insulated garage with gable roof

This version of a wooden frame garage has a completely “capital” and aesthetic appearance, so it will not spoil landscape design even the most developed area.

Illustration	Brief description of the work steps to be performed
	So, the first step, after cleaning the site from the fertile soil layer, is the marking of the territory, that is, the right angles of the garage perimeter are determined along with the blind area. As you can see in the illustration, special cast-offs made from the board are used for this purpose. Their installation is carried out according to the instructions above.
	Inside the fenced area, the location of the foundation pillars is marked. In this case, it is planned to install the pillars only along the perimeter of the garage, that is, only under the future walls of the structure. On the long sides, in addition to the corners, two more supports are placed with equal pitch, on the short back - one in the center. An additional pillar is placed in place of the vertical posts of the future gate opening. So that the pits are not larger than necessary, and the formwork enters them freely, it is best to do the work manually, periodically trying on a box made of boards to the foundation pit. Laths are nailed on top of the box, so that a square hole remains in the center of the structure, into which a cement-asbestos pipe will later be installed.
	The depth of the pit depends on the structure of the soil, but it must be at least 500 mm. Crushed stone of medium fraction, 50 ÷ 70 mm thick, is poured into the finished pits, which should be well compacted. A wooden formwork box is installed on top of the rubble.
	The next step is to fill the formwork with a concrete mortar consisting of sand and cement in a 3:1 ratio. The solution must fill all inner space boxes, so it is distributed using a trowel or spatula with a width of 120 ÷ 150 mm.
	Having filled the formwork box, a pipe with a diameter of 150 ÷ 170 mm is installed in its central part. It can be made from different materials, but most often used asbestos concrete, as it is resistant to external influences. Having installed the pipe in a plastic solution, they make a short pause for the concrete to set, and then the space around it is filled with gravel, which should also be compacted. The pipe should rise above the soil surface by 120÷150 mm.
	A pipe rigidly fixed in the pit is filled with concrete mortar, and when pouring it, it must be “bayoneted”, for example, by trimming reinforcement. This process is carried out so that all the air comes out of the mass, which can form voids that weaken the structure.
	Immediately after pouring the solution, long metal embedded elements are installed in the pipes, made of strips with a thickness of at least 5 mm, and the height must exceed the depth of the pipe by the thickness of the strapping beam. On the embedded strips, two holes are pre-drilled in height. The distance between the holes is calculated taking into account the cross section of the beam, since it is to them that it will be attached. Mortgage strips should be maximally shifted and turned in the pipe to the inner platform, which will be located under the garage. Further work is carried out only after the concrete has completely cured.
	This time can be put to good use. Completely the entire site, from which the top layer of soil was removed, is covered with crushed stone of the middle fraction. The embankment must be evenly distributed and compacted. Crushed stone should fill the entire thickness of the removed soil. Work on the distribution of crushed stone can be carried out using an ordinary hoe, and tamped with a manual rammer.
	The next step is to lay a waterproofing material - roofing material - on the prepared pillars in two layers. Slots are made in its segments, through which the roofing material is put on metal fastening loops protruding from the pillars. After that, you can proceed to the installation of the lower trim of the frame, consisting of a bar with a section of 170 × 150 mm. The beam is laid on poles and pressed against the loops embedded in them.
	At the corners, the strapping timber is connected into half a tree, but is not fastened rigidly until the diagonals are measured - their length should be the same. If necessary, the position is adjusted. The timber ends along the border of the garage door - there, for this, additional supports are provided.
	To fix the beam to the metal hinges, self-tapping screws 100 mm long and 10 mm in diameter, with turnkey heads, are used. You should not choose fasteners of a smaller diameter, as they must securely hold the base in a predetermined position throughout the entire service life.
	The next step, through the holes in metal hinges holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the beam, into which, with the help of a special hexagonal head, fixing screws are screwed into the screwdriver until it stops.
	Further, on top of the strapping beam, a frame is assembled from a board 50 mm thick, connected at the corners also in half a tree. The frame is laid indented from the outer edge of the beam by 40÷50 mm and screwed with self-tapping screws 80 mm long.
	A one-piece frame is temporarily assembled, which will block the future gate opening - this is necessary so that the frame board is equally fixed in one line on both sides of the opening. Later, its excess part is sawn off.
	Next, the frame must be marked for the installation of vertical frame parts, which must be mounted with the same pitch, which can be 400 ÷ 500 mm.
	After the markup has been made, they are attached to the lower trim corner posts frame. They are first grabbed with long 100 mm self-tapping screws, screwed in at an angle, and then fixed with metal perforated corners.
	Before fixing, all racks are set according to the building level. If it is planned to equip windows in the garage, then openings are formed and framed for them. The horizontal crossbars installed for them will add rigidity to the structure.
	Horizontal bars are also fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in at an angle. In some cases, in addition to the vertical posts, diagonal puffs are mounted. They will also give the structure strength and will not allow the frame to deform.
	After installing and fixing the racks, the top trim is installed, which consists of a beam or board laid in two layers. The upper trim must be strong, as it connects the vertical racks of the frame, and elements of the roof truss system are installed on it. Especially carefully you need to strengthen the opening for the gate and the frame of the wall around it. For this, the areas around the opening are sheathed with plywood sheets, and the opening is additionally framed with boards or timber.
	After completing work on the frame, they proceed to the assembly of elements (trusses) of the truss system. It is convenient to assemble them on a horizontal plane, that is, on the ground. For this rafter legs laid out at the right angle, and then fastened to the ceiling beam (puff). A rack (headstock) is installed between the ridge connection and the middle of the puff, which will add additional rigidity and strength to the structure.
	Connection points wooden parts reinforced with perforated metal plates, fixed with self-tapping screws 40 ÷ 50 mm long. So going right amount rafter pairs.
	The next step on the long sides of the upper harness is the marking of the location of the finished trusses of the truss system. Usually they are mounted in increments of 600 mm. Further, truss pairs are lifted onto the harness and laid out in an inverted state.
	Then they are mounted - the triangles are turned over in turn and installed on the upper harness, according to the markings. First, the gable structural elements are fixed and reinforced with additional racks, there may be five or seven of them, together with the central “headstock”. These elements will not only strengthen the structure, but also serve as a crate for the decorative sheathing of the pediment. Then, a cord is pulled between the two extreme triangles, along which it will be easy to navigate, exposing the rest of the rafter pairs.
	The truss trusses are fastened to the strapping using special wide metal corners having perforations. Through these holes, they are fixed to the puff bars and rafters, as well as the upper strapping. Corners must be installed on both sides installed rafters, since only in this case, they will be rigidly fixed. After fixing them in the lower part, it is worth fixing them among themselves and along the line of the ridge.
	When the roof structure is mounted, it is fitted from the side of the garage waterproofing film, which is fixed to the ceiling beams with brackets and a stapler. The film is necessary if the ceiling is planned to be insulated.
	From below, the film is additionally fixed with lathing battens 20 mm thick, on which the garage ceiling sheathing will later be fixed. To fix the boards, self-tapping screws 40 ÷ 50 mm long are used. The mounting step of the rails is approximately 250 ÷ 300 mm.
	The next step is to lay insulation material on top of the film between the ceiling beams from the attic side - most often this is one of the types of mineral wool. The mats must fit snugly against the sides of the beams, otherwise much of the thermal insulation effect will be lost.
	A waterproof vapor-permeable membrane is mounted on top of the insulation, which will protect the thermal insulation from atmospheric moisture. The canvases are overlapped by 150 ÷ 170 mm and fastened together with moisture-resistant adhesive tape.
	The next step is that the slopes of the truss system are sheathed along the rafters with boards 10 mm thick or with plywood sheets (OSB). If boards are selected, then you should not waste time aligning them in advance, since the edges of the formed planes can be completely aligned after installation is completed, by walking along the intended even line with a manual circular.
	The result is neat roof slopes. For ventilation, a gap must be left on the ridge between the slopes, which, after the roofing material has been laid, will be closed by ridge elements.
	Further, plywood or boards on the roof slopes must be protected from atmospheric moisture, therefore, a bitumen-based waterproofing material is laid on their surface, starting from the eaves. Roll waterproofers can be self-adhesive, or they can be fixed with staples or nails. The material is overlapped by 120÷150 mm.
	The wall sheets are immediately marked for fixing the crate. If flexible tiles are used to cover the roof, then sheathing is not needed for it, since this type of material is fixed immediately to the waterproofing.
	For the convenience of carrying out work, rails are temporarily fixed on the laid canvas, on which you can lean with your foot.
	The next step on the slopes of the roof is the slats of the counter-lattice, the ridge board and the eaves rail. The size of the rails in the cross section is usually 50 × 15 mm, they are fixed to the slopes using self-tapping screws.
	In addition, at the same stage, the wall frame is sheathed in parallel with moisture-resistant and heat-resistant drywall or plywood (OSB). Horizontal rails are fixed on top of the skin, which are necessary for fixing decorative finishes walls. In this embodiment, they are placed in increments of 600 mm, since this distance is optimal for fixing plank sheathing. After the fixing of the rails is completed, frames are installed in the window openings, if the garage project provides for natural lighting.
	Next, wind boards are installed. Their installation must be carried out so that they are higher than the surface of the slopes by the height of the wave of the roofing material, since they are designed to protect the gaps that inevitably form between the relief roofing and the waterproofing. In addition to these sections, wind boards are also fixed along the cornices.
	Then the first layer of decorative wood paneling. The width of the boards is 130 ÷ 150 mm, the thickness is 10 ÷ 12 mm, they are fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be sunk into the wood.
	To equip the water drainage system, places are marked on the cornice boards for fixing the gutter brackets.
	The next step is the installation of the roofing, in this case, it is a rubber-composite slate with imitation of natural tiles. The size of a slate sheet with a thickness of 2÷3 mm can be 2000×900 or 1000×500 mm. Installation is made from the eaves, the coating is laid from left to right.
	After laying and fixing the roofing, it is covered on the ridge with ridge elements, which are also overlapped.
	Then, on the eaves, under the roof overhangs, a gutter is installed in the holders. A second layer of wood cladding is mounted on the walls. This layer is fixed on already fixed boards and covers the gaps between them.
	The walls inside the garage are insulated mineral wool, which fits between the racks of the frame. Mats should occupy all the space and fit snugly against wooden parts.
	The insulation material is tightened with a waterproofing material, which is used as a dense polyethylene film. It is fixed on the bars of the frame with staples using a stapler.
	Further, starting from the ceiling, all the internal surfaces of the garage are sheathed with moisture-resistant drywall. On top of this material, tiles can be laid, or it can be primed and painted. acrylic paints for facade work - at the request of the owners.

Two issues that were not addressed in the description of the construction of this garage are its gates and the arrangement of the floor, and they need to be clarified.

In this case, the project provided for the installation of an up-and-over gate, the leaf of which, when opened, rises and goes under the garage ceiling. This structure is designed, manufactured and installed by specialists. Of course, another version of the gate can be installed on the opening, including one that can be made independently from metal or wood.

As for the floor, it can be either wooden or concrete. In addition, a viewing hole is almost always equipped in the garage.

Wooden frame garage without insulation with a shed roof

This simple garage design is perfect for building in a summer cottage, and it can be built by any motorist who knows how to work with a hammer, screwdriver and saw. In this case, all operations can be performed independently, without the involvement of outside help.

This version of the frame garage is installed on column foundation, which is located around the entire perimeter of the building. The first stages of work are carried out in the same way as in the previous case considered, that is, marking the site, clearing it of sod, determining the location of the pillars, digging pits and installing foundation supports. True, a plank floor is provided, that is, the number of pillars is increasing - it is necessary to provide intermediate ax points for the log.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	A beam of the lower strapping of the structure is laid on the foundation pillars. In this case, a bar with a section of 150 × 120 mm is taken. Then the diagonals of the resulting frame are measured, and the frame is finally fixed. The next step on the intermediate pillars of the foundation are installed on the edge of the board with a section of 150 × 50 mm, which are attached to the strapping beam using special supporting perforated metal brackets. Boards will serve as a reliable basis for the installation of a wooden floor.
	The next step is the installation of the front corner vertical posts from a bar with a section of 150 × 120 mm. They must have a height of at least 2500 mm.
	Next, an opening is marked in which the garage door will be installed. According to the marking, two more beams are mounted at a distance of 2700 mm from each other. That is, 1350 mm is deposited from the center of the strapping beam in both directions - at these points the edges of the vertical posts will be located, limiting the doorway on the sides.
	The next step is to form the basis of the frame of the rear wall. It also consists of four posts spaced at equal intervals, made of timber of the same section, but having a height of 2300 mm. Due to the difference in the height of the front and rear walls, the necessary slope is formed pitched roof.
	The fastening of all vertical bars to the strapping is carried out using powerful metal corners that fix the racks on both sides.
	As you can see in the illustration, the top harness in this design is different from the project discussed above. Here, the front and rear racks are separately connected with a horizontal beam, forming the basis for mounting the rafter legs. Before installing the rafters, their location is marked - in this case, the distance between them is 400 mm. For overlapping, ten boards with a length of 5500 with a section of 120 × 30 ÷ 50 mm are required. They are installed on the edge and fixed with metal corners.
	Further, the middle of the sides of the garage is measured and marked. In these places, vertical racks are installed, which are interconnected by a horizontal crossbar, which should firmly support the rafter legs from below. The rafters are also attached to this crossbar with the help of metal corners.
	In the next step, the side posts are connected in the middle part with boards, which can be fixed on the posts with corners or one of the joints used to fasten the timber. As a result, the frame of the side wall is, as it were, divided into four sections.
	To make the frame more rigid, each of the four sections is reinforced with a diagonal puff, on which cuts are made along the edges. In the upper part, the board is installed in a groove cut in a vertical rack.
	The lower side of the diagonal tie is installed and fixed in the corner between the horizontal jumper and the vertical middle post of the frame.
	The result is a crate that resembles the division into sections of the flag of Great Britain. It should be noted that the frame can be quite simplified by fixing several less massive ones between the main racks. This becomes possible due to the fact that the construction of the garage roof is quite light, and the wall cladding is made of thin boards.
	Further, 20 mm thick sheathing boards are laid across the rafters. They are fixed at a distance of 50 mm from each other. If, on the other hand, flexible shingles, then the distance is reduced to 3 mm, and it is necessary for the possible expansion of wood, which can occur when high humidity air. Instead of boards, moisture-resistant plywood or OSB is also laid on the rafters.
	This illustration shows well what the shed roof construction of a frame garage is.
	Having finished the installation of the plank crate, from the front side of the garage, the ends of the floor beams are covered with a wind board, which is fastened with self-tapping screws. Their hats must be sunk into the wood.
	The next step is mounted on the crate roofing material. As it can be used corrugated board or slate familiar to all. Of course, if financial possibilities allow, then other, more expensive materials are also used for coating.
	If the garage is covered with whole sheets of corrugated board, then it is laid from right to left, overlapping in two waves, since the slope of the slope is small. When using slate for the roof, which will be mounted in two or three rows, its installation is carried out starting from the cornice, and also from left to right.
	After covering the roof, you can proceed to the flooring of the wooden floor. For it, a board with a width of 150 and a thickness of 40 mm is used. Between the boards, it is imperative to leave a gap of 3 ÷ 4 mm, which will keep the floor even and will not allow the boards to deform from temperature changes, changes in air humidity, direct water ingress, for example, when putting a car in a garage in rainy weather.
	The garage frame ready for sheathing should look something like the one shown in the illustration.
	The frame of the walls is sheathed with a board installed in two layers. For the first of them, which will hardly be visible from the outside, an unedged board with a thickness of 100 ÷ 120 mm and different widths can be used.
	The outer layer should still have a more aesthetic appearance, so it is best to use a planed, antiseptic-treated board, siding or metal profiled sheet for it. The unedged board of the first layer is mounted with gaps of 80 ÷ 100 mm, and for the outer skin, the boards are already installed with a gap of 2 ÷ 3 mm. Moreover, these gaps should fall on the boards of the first layer so that through cracks do not form.
	Then the upper area above the gate opening is sheathed. To do this, you need to decide on the height - it should be such that not only the car drives into the garage without hindrance, but also its owner freely enters, without the risk of hitting his head through inattention. So, if the height of the facade wall of the garage is 2500 mm, then the opening can be, say, 2200 mm. And from this it follows that its upper limit drops by 300 mm.
	So, at a height of 2200 mm from the floor, grooves are cut in the vertical racks, into which the edges of the horizontal beam are inserted from the timber. A bar with a section of 50 × 50 mm must enter the grooves by at least 50 mm. Then, first a layer of unedged boards, and then a decorative sheathing, is fixed to the upper bar of the pediment overlap and the fixed crossbar from the outside.
	The finished opening is carefully measured, and in this case every millimeter must be taken into account. According to the measurements taken, taking into account the gaps of 5 mm on the hinges, gate shields are made from a board 20 mm thick. It should be noted that if the doors are planned to be additionally sheathed from the inside with a second plank or plywood layer, then a board for assembling shields can be taken with a thickness of 12 ÷ 15 mm. To lay the boards correctly, that is, evenly and with the preservation of temperature gaps, you need a rigid and absolutely flat surface. To do this, you can use plywood sheets laid out on a flat area of the yard. To make the gate look neat, it is best to use boards that have the same width of 100 ÷ 120 mm. The shield is fastened with crossbars installed in the upper and lower parts of the sashes, indented from their edge by 150 mm. For rigidity and maintaining the stability of the shield, a diagonal board is fixed between the horizontal jumpers. For additional rigidity, the jumpers and the diagonal board are interconnected by metal corners.
	The finished sash is turned over, and the location of massive hinges is marked on it, which are screwed through horizontal crossbars mounted on inside sashes, bolts with a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm.
	Further, the sashes are placed in turn in the gate opening, on the sides of which the attachment points of the hinges are marked in place. When closing the wings, a small gap of 3 ÷ 5 mm should remain between them, since they should not touch each other.
	The hinges are screwed through the sheathing boards into the frame racks using massive self-tapping screws or using bolts, under which through holes are drilled. When measuring the location and fastening of the gate hinges, it is necessary to control the free opening and closing of the leaves. If it turns out that the gate leaves are rubbing against the sheathing boards in some areas, then these areas must be corrected with a planer.
	To equip an exit ramp for a car along the edges of the gate width, powerful bars are installed on the edges of the foundation pillars and fixed to the lower trim of the structure, having a cross section of 250 × 180 mm. The bars used for this purpose must be well impregnated with bitumen, thanks to which they will acquire the necessary hydrophobicity and resistance to decay. If it is possible to purchase impregnated wooden sleepers, it is best to use them - they are ideal for installing support beams for the entrance ramp, as they are designed for heavy loads and are protected from moisture penetration.
	There may be two or three such guides. The front ends are recessed into the ground, only the upper part of the timber is left on the surface.
	A board 40 mm thick and no more than 100 mm wide is nailed or screwed onto the fixed beams. It is recommended to choose a board that does not have large knots, as well as a large number of small and medium ones, since these defects weaken the wood, and the ramp can quickly crack under the load from the car.
	Upon completion of the work, a finished garage, which has the most simple design and built from available materials, may look as shown in the illustration. If the building is sheathed with other facing facade material, then it can acquire a more respectable look. Other than that, nothing prevents you from doing internal insulation and finishing, which will allow the use of the garage in winter time, for example, as a workshop. It will be enough to install heaters-convectors indoors and organize good lighting.
	If over time there is a desire to make an inspection hole in this garage, this will be done quite simply. Marking is made on the wooden flooring and a rectangle is cut along it, which will correspond to the perimeter of the future pit. Then a foundation pit is dug, its walls are strengthened and equipped. The only thing that needs to be foreseen in advance, even when building a garage, is the location of the foundation pillars. It is necessary to plan so that there are no supports in the central part of the floor. This will not affect the strength of the flooring in any way, since the main load falls on the area where the wheels of the car will be located.

No motorist will refuse a viewing hole

The garage, probably, will not become full-fledged if it does not have a viewing hole. And if the conditions make it possible to equip it, then this should not be neglected. Step-by-step instructions for in an already finished garage - in a special publication of our portal.

So, it is quite obvious that, if you wish and have basic building skills, you can independently build a frame garage on the territory suburban area or next to a private house - a completely solvable task. The advantage of such a building can be called the relative ease of assembly, and the possibility of using high-quality facing materials will make such a garage outwardly indistinguishable from the capital one.

At the end of the publication, another example of the construction of a frame garage.

Video: the work of masters in the construction of a frame garage

Dmxxx

Participant

Garage 6x4.5 from PShchS blocks with a basement on their own in 4 months (construction experience)

I'll start with the backstory.
I live in the suburbs of Krasnoyarsk in apartment building. He built the garage for the most part for his father, who moved not so long ago from the outback closer to civilization from a private house to an apartment. This move was accompanied by mental changes and experiences, and one of them was the absence of a man's own corner in the form of a garage, where you can work with your hands and generally "break out of 4 stone walls." Therefore, the garage is more psychological than a necessary thing, designed to occupy a person and facilitate a change in lifestyle.
Naturally, I had a desire to build a garage at minimal cost, ideally within the budget of 100t. There was no talk of buying a plot for a garage with such a budget. Our land situation is very complicated, all the land is divided, there is a "land mafia" in the administration, the price for plots is 24 sq.m. (namely, this is how much we are now allocating for individual garages) can exceed 200 tons, which is twice the entire budget for construction.
Therefore, 3 years ago I decided that I would try to get land under the law from the administration, and not through a purchase. The history of obtaining land was long and complicated, a lot of paperwork, dead ends and bureaucracy, if the public has a desire, I can tell separately. The main result, and the result was this - in September 2016, the village administration signed a lease agreement with me for a 27 sq.m. neighbors' garages. I want to note that all the surrounding neighbors were very surprised that I was given a plot in such good location, next to the houses, with a convenient entrance, also an area of 27 sq.m., to be honest, I think the neighbors still think that I am either "from the thieves" or gave a bribe to someone. Although everything was according to the law, it just took 3 years and a lot of working hours and nerves were spent on paperwork.
Everything would be fine if not for one BUT !, according to the new land code, plots for the construction of a garage are allocated for a period of 1 year! And this is in our Siberian region, where there are 4 months of summer, and if you are not lucky, then 3 months out of 4 months can be very long.
So, I "left into the fall" with a plot allocated for 1 year, although I counted on 3, without a normal construction plan and with the need to register the building before September 2017, so that later on legal grounds already buy the land from the administration into private ownership!
I hardly remember my condition, but I understand that the feelings were extremely mixed, on the one hand, the end of a 3-year ordeal through the authorities with the knocking out of a site, on the other hand, the launch of a completely stupid financial and construction marathon, and not even a marathon, but, given the construction period, sprint...
So, the time has come!

Registration: 17.09.12 Messages: 37 Acknowledgments: 93