How to build a bath with your own hands step by step instructions. How to build a budget bath in the country

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If you have your own piece of land, then one of the objects can be a do-it-yourself bath. Projects, photos and features of construction work are presented on our website. For construction, you can choose any interesting option or a project from our review.

So, in order to build a quality building, you need to consider the following points:

pick the perfect project
think over each stage of work;
purchase suitable material;
plan all communications;
important point is the interior decoration.

A beautiful bathhouse on the site can be not only a functional building, but also a luxurious element of landscape design

To make the bath correctly and correctly choose the place of its placement, you need to adhere to all the norms of SNiP. Important attention should be paid to the material for the construction of the building. The choice of location must be made taking into account certain distances in relation to other objects.

Before building a bath, consider the features of the site: design, climatic conditions and soil characteristics, features of the local landscape area and soil properties. If the territory is uneven, then it is better to carry out construction on elevated terrain, since this will ensure optimal water flow. Do not install such a building on sandy soil. In any case, the foundation should be strengthened. The harder the soil layer, the better. Most often, the construction of such buildings is planned on the leeward side of the main buildings. This placement protects from heavy rainfall.

often used and budget wood concrete. At the same time, the building is warm and durable.

Bath from a bar

How to build such buildings depends on the material options. Projects can be carried out from the following materials:

natural wood;
edged timber;
glued beam;
profiled timber;
rounded log.

There are several ways to build a bath with your own hands. A simple version can be seen in the video:

Most often, construction is carried out with the help of rounded logs and timber. A log bath is a simpler option than rounded logs. is a cheaper material than logs. The construction of the timber is carried out using.

When deciding how to make a building out of timber, you must follow some rules. Such construction refers to light structures, so you can use a shallow or shallow foundation.

How to properly and what kind of foundation to make depends on the type of soil. For clay and marshy soil, the columnar option is not suitable. In this case, or are used.

Before deciding how to lay the timber, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing. To do this, a layer is distributed on the surface of the foundation, and a sheet of roofing material on top. Then the second layer is applied. And the boards adjacent to the foundation are treated with antiseptic solutions. So we build a bath, regardless of whether it is small or large. A common version of construction work is a small bath from a half-beam.

When deciding how to build a sauna yourself, you must first choose high-quality wood. The material is most often harvested from December to March. Blanks 150×150 or 100×150 are made from felled trees. At the same time, they must be cleaned of bark. It is important to inspect the material before construction work. It should not show signs of decay or cracks. The wood should be smooth and even. When choosing bars, drawings and dimensions must be prepared in advance. In this case, the purpose of the material is important, for example, a floor made of edged boards. When building on your own, you need to know how it is carried out step by step construction and ways of connecting logs 3x4 or 4x4.

It is important to know how to install 50x150 boards on edge, as well as options for increasing the length. There are such connection options as in the paw and in the oblo. For a structure made of profiled timber, the oblo method is suitable, in which the connection is made when creating lock grooves.

Frame bath in the country

Consider a variety of projects on . The walls are lattice structures. For the walls you will need:

How to build such a structure depends on the main project. This construction technology has many advantages. This is a high installation speed and low labor intensity. According to the reviews - this is an economical construction. The finished building is characterized by rapid heating of the premises. A mini bath or even a 4x6 or 6x6 design does not require prolonged shrinkage. There is also a large selection of materials for both interior and exterior finishes. Can be used different variants foundation, for example, tape or on piles.

How to make such a design demonstrates a photo report, where the photo shows detailed diagram and features of the construction of such buildings. Such structures also have certain disadvantages. First of all, careful thermal insulation of such structures is required. Also, such structures have a short service life. Depending on the projects: 3×4, 2×4 or 3×5, drawings are selected. The finished project must contain working drawings with the correct assembly of the structure, with engineering communications and a bill of materials.

We build a bath with our own hands: a brief description of the stages of construction

Any construction of a bath in the country requires careful planning. Before starting construction, it is necessary to mark the site. To do this, you need a project, according to which marks are made on the ground. Where to start marking out the dimensions depends on where the corner of the building is located. This place is reporting from scratch. In this case, a peg is hammered, and the lengths of the sides are measured from it. Then compact pegs are installed and other walls are also measured.

The design of the bath and the dimensions are indicated in accordance with the project data. After that, the markup is made depending on the . When building a bath with your own hands from stone, brick or blocks, you need to level the foundation. At the same time, the roofing material is laid, and then on top.

How to build a building will depend on what material it will be built from - from boards or from. Specialists can show installation features. Useful videos can be found on YouTube.

If brickwork is used, it should start at the corners. At the same time, the first blocks are placed on the cement mortar. They must be in the same plane. If you don't know how to do this correctly, use a twine as a guide.

In the video below you can see step-by-step display construction work:

After installing the jumpers above the windows or doors, it is mounted, and then an armored belt is made. Foundation bolts are attached to this part. A simple or panel structure involves the construction of a wood frame. This element is sheathed and insulated with various types of finishing materials. To make the frame, boards made of aspen, linden or larch are used, since these options are characterized by low.

Wooden strapping from a bar is made on the foundation. At the same time, cuts are made at the ends of the bars and fastened to each other with self-tapping screws. For small bars, metal corners are used.

We note the main stages in the manufacture of the frame base:

Any sauna is exposed to high humidity, so the steam room is treated with a vapor barrier film. This will protect against the accumulation of moisture from the inside. Fiberglass or mineral wool can be used as a heat-insulating material. Such options provide an excellent level of sealing. Insulation and wall cladding is carried out after the installation of the roof. This approach will protect wood and insulation materials from getting wet.

Particular attention should be paid. Before choosing equipment for a bath, it is necessary to complete the construction work. The finished building is equipped with furniture and all necessary equipment. A rustic bath can be made from various materials, but not from the croaker.

Do-it-yourself foundation for a bath: step by step instructions

How to build a sauna building depends on the type of foundation used. It is worth noting the following options:

slab foundation is not often done. It is suitable for massive and complex buildings. The markup is made according to the dimensions of the building or a little more;
can be done strip foundation for a bath 4 × 4 with your own hands. In this case, the marking is done so that the tape runs along the perimeter of the building;
columnar is used for mounting wooden structures. Depending on the dimensions 3×4, 3×5 or 3×6, the marking is made according to the number of supports;
. The advantage of this option is the ease of installation. With its help, installation on the foundation is possible even with an inclined section. Marking is carried out according to the number of piles.

It is even possible to build without a foundation. A shallow strip foundation can be used when the soil is hard and dry, the water table is low and the buildings are not very heavy. The shallow version is the simplest. Here are the main points to consider:

How the screw foundation is mounted can be seen in the video below:

Bath with a shower in the country: how to bring and drain water

Exist different ways how to equip a shower inside the bath with your own hands. There is even a special step by step guide. The photo report demonstrates different options for installing a shower. The easiest option for cooling is to mount a simple wooden bucket on the wall. Water can be poured through water pipe with a faucet. In this case, no special heating is required. In the photo below you can see a shower with hydromassage jets. In this case, it is necessary to consider water heating, as well as pressure using pumping equipment.

The shower does not require a large area, it is enough to allocate a little space in the dressing room. Necessarily . It is necessary to equip the drain for the bath. Also inside the bath you can do and Summer shower. In this case, you do not need to equip a separate booth in the yard. Even in an already built building, you can find a corner for a washing room. But at the same time, you will need to build a drain in the bath.

Do-it-yourself instructions for building a bathhouse roof

When building a bath, you need to figure out how to mount the roof. The stages of such construction can be seen below:

Options for creating a roof may be different, but in any case, you need to consider waterproofing and thermal insulation. Without waterproofing, steam will pass into the attic, and settle on the rafters and beams. In this case, condensate can drain onto the insulation, which will affect the durability of the material. It is important to take into account some features of the buildings:

Organization of the internal equipment of the bath in the country

An important point is the arrangement of the interior. A variety of indoor photos will help you decide how to make the interior inside. Any projects should start with the installation. This design will reduce the concentration of hot air.

After the construction is completed, it is also done outside with your own hands. Another important point is . With insufficient ventilation, electrical heating will cause a decrease in oxygen levels.

It is necessary to remember about constant temperature control. Mercury thermometer must not be installed. Better buy a bath thermometer. To control the humidity is used -.

The interior decoration deserves special attention. The most suitable material is wood. A good solution and an economy option is lining. Wall decoration should be done in pastel colors. It is worth considering the floor in the bath.

Step-by-step instructions include the stages of finishing work, as well as the layout of lighting and ventilation. should be of good quality. Also consider bathroom accessories. The step-by-step guide also provides for the arrangement of good soundproofing.

Article

A do-it-yourself frame bath, the step-by-step construction instructions for which include several stages, is built quite easily, subject to the technology for erecting frame structures. The option of building a frame-panel bath is considered the most suitable for most homeowners. The simplicity of construction has made this type of bath one of the most popular among the owners of suburban areas.

This is due to the fact that this design looks very good from the outside, requires little time and money, and is guaranteed to serve its owner for up to fifty years.

The main advantages of frame baths

Baths of this type have a number of advantages in addition to those already mentioned. So the structure can be built independently without the involvement of heavy construction equipment or outside help. The structure can be built regardless of the time of year, the complete absence of shrinkage. The design of the building allows for covered communications. When using a frame structure, it is possible to choose a practically unlimited number of options for finishing the building, both inside and outside.

At the same time, the frame bath can still be moved to another place, if necessary, sometimes without disassembling its design. This allows her to move to a new site in the event of the sale of the old one.

In the process of building a frame-panel type bath, it is necessary to take into account and correctly think over its thermal insulation. The fact is that the walls of such a bath hold heat worse than walls, for example, wooden structures, so it definitely needs good thermal insulation.

The second point that you should pay attention to is the vapor barrier. Here the whole question is that the frame structure of the building favors the collection of steam condensate in it. It is possible to get rid of it only by applying vapor barrier film or parchment. Such insulation is laid between the layers of mineral insulation and the sheathing of the building.

When choosing building materials for a frame bath, serious attention should be paid to ensuring that the boards used during construction work are dry. It is desirable that they be aspen, linden or larch. These types of wood are practically not deformed and have a low thermal conductivity.

Frame mini bath

Main stages of work

If we consider the construction of a frame-panel bath in stages, then it consists of the following operations:

laying the foundation;
wall assembly;
roof construction;
decoration of the building inside and out.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the preliminary work. They include the preparation of a construction plan, its estimates, the purchase of building materials, and the summing up of communications.

So even before the construction of the foundation begins, it is worth marking and clearing the site for the bath, performing the necessary earthworks, and purchasing all the necessary building material.

Laying the foundation of the structure

To do frame bath, a foundation erected according to a simplified scheme is enough. The fact is that a building of this design weighs extremely little and can be built, for example, on asbestos-cement pipes filled with concrete mortar.

For its construction it is necessary:

perform wells with a depth of 1.5 meters and a diameter of 200 millimeters;
cut the pipes in half and place them in the wells, then fill them with sand;
pour the pipes with a concrete solution made from fine gravel, water, sand and cement.

Foundation for a frame bath

The binding from the boards is created at the next stage of the construction work. Their size should be 50x100 mm, and they should be impregnated with an antiseptic. The strapping marks the walls, while the boards are mounted on the outer edge and knocked down with nails. The fastening of the strapping on the plinth is carried out on supports.

To make the whole structure high-strength, the strapping and logs are fixed using metal fasteners immured in concrete. At the end of its manufacture, this building structure is impregnated with an antibacterial substance.

Installation of bath walls

Having decided to build a frame bath with his own hands, the builder must know that when installing walls, the distance between the axes should be 0.6 mm. At the same time, such a wall should not provide for the arrangement of a window or door opening or docking with other walls.

The gap for such walls is up to 0.4 mm. To give the overall strength of the structure in the area of \u200b\u200bthe connection of the frame, walls and lintels, an additional rack must be installed. Upon completion of the installation of the frame, its geometry is checked.

Further work begins with the removal of the corner of the building. To do this, first a wall is built that communicates directly with the strapping. After checking for verticality, it is temporarily fixed with struts. Approximately according to the same scheme, the rest of the walls are mounted. When their construction is completed, the cladding is installed.

Roof construction and finishing

The assembly of rafters and other roofing elements is usually done on the ground. Directly on the roof, they rise manually and are placed strictly above their rack. There are several types of roofing, but the most common for baths is ventilated.

It allows you to remove excess moisture from the room. During its erection, the crate is stuffed directly onto the beams, and the hydro and vapor barrier is laid under the counter beam. They cover the finished roof with ondulin, and the gables are covered with sheets of chipboard.

The final stage of the construction of the bath complex is its decoration from the inside and outside. Exterior walls are now usually finished with siding or block house. The cheapest option is boards, most often spruce or pine. Sometimes the frame bath is plastered or tiled. At the same time, do not forget about waterproofing and insulation of voids in the building's cladding.

The interior of the bath usually excludes the use of paints and varnish due to their high toxicity when heated. It is best to finish the ceiling and walls with the same OSB sheets. You can use lining or wood siding. To prevent rotting of the walls, the walls must be insulated with foil.

Finishing the bath clapboard

Separately, it is worth mentioning the joints between the walls and the ceiling. The fact is that the mounted heat insulator must have a margin of 15 centimeters. It should be checked whether the floor boards are nailed to the joists with the front side.

Do not forget about fire safety: it is better to separate the steam room from other rooms with a brick.

Do-it-yourself frame bath: step-by-step construction instructions

A do-it-yourself frame bath, the step-by-step construction instructions for which include several stages, is built quite easily, subject to the technology for erecting frame structures.

How to build a frame bath with your own hands

In our country, a summer cottage or your own house without a bath looks at least lonely. For centuries, baths were built from logs and could not boast of a variety of layouts due to the nature of the material. Today the situation has changed. Construction technology and modern materials will make the most daring architectural ideas come true. Following the advice of this article, you can learn how to build a frame bath with your own hands step by step.

Frame technologies have been used to build houses for about 200 years. Construction using this technology is widespread in the Scandinavian countries and North America. Simplicity and relatively low cost of construction have become the reason for the growth in popularity frame construction and in Russia.

Construction preparation

To start construction and accurately calculate the material, it is desirable to have a project. You can find it on the Internet or order it from a specialized company. Do-it-yourself frame baths are best ordered from professionals, however, you can draw it yourself, but you need to be as careful as possible. In addition, for the construction of a bath, certain materials will be required, namely:

timber 100x100 mm;
dry planed board 50x150 mm;
insulation, vapor barrier;
waterproofing;
facade elements (siding, metal tiles);
interior elements (lining, panels, etc.).

The next step after the purchase of the material will be the preparation of the construction site and the construction itself. Let's outline the main steps:

foundation construction;
raising and sheathing the main frame;
roofing;
internal Finishing work.

It is very important to create the correct design of the frame bath, but it is better to use existing drawings. Below is a diagram of a do-it-yourself frame bath photo projects.

Foundation construction

The main frame of our bath is a lightweight construction, so the requirements for the foundation will be minimal. You can use a foundation of concrete blocks laid around the perimeter of the frame or the so-called columnar foundation.

The columnar foundation is asbestos-cement pipes filled with concrete. The depth of laying pipes is selected based on the type of soil. If the soil is dense - clayey, it is enough to dig pipes 0.5 meters. For light soil types - sandy, the depth should be at least 1.5 meters. Optimum diameter pipes 100 mm, standard length 4 m, take this into account when calculating the amount of material. When digging in pipes, a gasoline drill will be an excellent helper, you can rent it, as it is quite expensive. The diameter of the well should be twice the diameter of the pipes. The pipes are sawn, taking into account the depth of the laying, it is enough to leave 0.5 meters on the surface. After installing the pillars in the well, fill them in a circle with soil and tamp well. The pipes are filled with concrete. The composition of the solution (cement brand M400):

An important point: the distance between the columns is selected based on the thickness of the walls (optimally 27 cm). To strengthen the foundation, you can fill the pipes in an additional tape method (along the perimeter of the frame).

The erection of the walls of the frame bath

If you purchased dry material for the frame, then construction can begin immediately after the foundation has solidified. Otherwise, let the wood dry for a while. Next, guided by the design plan, prepare the frame racks and roof rafters. Mark the mounting points for the racks and proceed with the installation of the main frame. The assembly of the bath begins with the processing of the basement timber with a fire-bioprotective compound. The treated timber is laid around the perimeter of the bath, and connected with nails and staples. Support bars are mounted on top of the structures connected from above with boards 50x150mm. Constantly check the accuracy of the mounting of the supports with a level.

An important point: when assembling the main frame, use only NAILS of a suitable size. Self-tapping screws are not allowed! The difference in the resistance of nails and self-tapping screws to fracture makes the use of the latter in the assembly of the frame DANGEROUS! (SNiP 31-02).

Wall assembly order:

two racks are mounted in the corners and several intermediate racks;
the frame is sheathed with an OSB plate (the plates are leveled and fastened to self-tapping screws);
a certain number of racks are mounted, OSB is sheathed.

Following this algorithm, the whole structure is assembled. Consider the location of door and window openings. It is advisable to select the distance between the internal racks of the frame according to the width of the insulation plate. Calculate the locations of windows and doors in advance so that the racks do not have to be moved during construction.

Advice! When assembling the support frame, the racks can be strengthened with slopes, after the building is sheathed with OSB-plate and the roof is installed, the slopes are removed.

Roof construction

Do-it-yourself frame bath involves mandatory work with the roof of the building. As it was written above, the rafters and the base of the roof are mounted on the ground, after which they are installed according to the design scheme. The material of the rafters is a board with a section of 150x50 mm. Before the final assembly of the roof, it is necessary to lay a timber (Mauerlat) around the perimeter of the frame, it serves as the lower support of the truss system. Don't forget to cut the OSB under the gables before the final installation of the roof structure. At the time of installation, assemble the rough flooring for ease of assembly.

Before the final covering of the roof, it is necessary to lay the crate. The crate is laid from the ridge with boards 100x25 mm. After assembling the crate, you can lay the roofing itself. A good roofing material is a metal tile or ondulin. In order to rafter system the roof has not dampened and collapsed over time, it is important to make good ventilation. To do this, a vapor barrier is laid under the rafters, and already on top of the rafters - the roof sheathing.

Next, you should close the gables, install windows, doors, and you can proceed to the interior decoration. Do-it-yourself frame bath with step-by-step instructions will help to make a reliable building, so construction should be carried out strictly according to the indicated stages.

Interior decoration

The first task is to lay the floor. The classic floor laying procedure consists of the following points:

Bars 50x50 mm are nailed onto the strapping logs.
A rough floor is placed on them.
Waterproofing (roofing material, roofing felt) is laid on the subfloor.
Minplates are laid on top, the thickness of the plates is about 10 cm.
A layer of vapor barrier is laid.
Then the finishing floor spreads.
Install an exhaust pipe to ventilate the space under the floor.

It is worth noting that during the installation of the floor, errors are possible, which can then cause alteration of part or all of the floor. Take floor assembly seriously. We will give the recommendations of experts, thanks to which the floor will last as long as possible:

Do not neglect the vapor barrier.
Do not replace the membrane vapor barrier with ordinary polyethylene.
Seal all waterproofing seams with sealant.
The thermal insulation layer must be dense and of sufficient thickness.
Don't forget about ventilation.

An important point: before laying the floor in the washing department, solve the problem with draining the water. We talked about the organization of sewerage in a summer cottage in one of our previous articles. In the washroom, the floor should be slightly sloping towards the drain. The floor boards must be tightly fitted to each other.

After installing the floor, proceed to the finishing of window and door openings and the installation of interior partitions. After that, it remains to sheathe the walls and ceiling with a clapboard; for a double compartment, it is better to use a clapboard made of non-coniferous wood - alder, ash, linden. For the rest of the premises, pine is perfect. A vapor barrier and insulation are laid under the skin. A few words about the facade cladding. Several types of materials are used:

siding (plastic or metal);
lining (plastic, wood);
timber imitation;
block house.

Each of them has its pros and cons. The choice is yours.

How to build a frame bath with your own hands - step by step instructions - projects - photo

Frame buildings are quite common due to the simplicity of construction technology. You can build a frame bath with your own hands, if available

How to build a frame bath with your own hands step by step?

Prefabricated and inexpensive frame baths are very popular. More and more owners country houses decide to build it on their site on their own, since the construction does not require large investments. Find out everything about the construction of a frame bath with your own hands, a video from the foundation to the roof from the article.

How to build a frame bath with your own hands: step by step instructions with photos

The advantage of a do-it-yourself steam room is that the weight of the structure is small and the building does not require a powerful foundation. For construction, you can buy inexpensive materials. It is necessary to purchase asbestos pipes with a diameter of 100 mm, a length of 4 m. We need sand, crushed stone, cement. The materials at hand that are left over from the construction of a house, gazebo or garage are also quite suitable. We offer you to get acquainted with the advantages of building a frame bath with your own hands, namely:

The design is fast-erecting, low cost.
It can have any shape, design and harmoniously fit into the exterior of the site.
The possibility of carrying out construction work all year round.

The frame bath in its design differs significantly from the construction of bricks, logs and foam blocks. To make the room more practical, you need to pay special attention to vapor barrier and thermal insulation. Masters recommend using a vapor barrier film for these purposes and mineral wool. Thus, a high degree of tightness will be achieved, and normal air exchange will not be disturbed. This point should be given due attention, since the disadvantage of frame buildings is the tendency to form a large amount of condensate.

Before proceeding with the construction, it is necessary to select the type of construction. Most inexpensive option- This is a frame bath attached to the house. This saves money on the construction of walls, and the capital structure gives the structure greater rigidity. A detached building with an attic or a gazebo is a great opportunity to combine business with pleasure. However, the cost of such a bath will be higher.

Where is the best place to place a frame bath on the site? In this matter, you can completely focus on your personal preferences. It is better to place the structure in a recreation area on a suburban area. Many owners decide to build a bath next to a pond or pool. If you place a steam room next to the barbecue, then after thermal procedures you can immediately start eating delicious food.

Boards made of these types of wood have low thermal conductivity, and they only need to be placed vertically. Boards made of the above wood are able to maintain an excellent appearance and shape for a long time, they do not deform under the influence of high temperatures.

How to build a frame bath with your own hands: construction stages

On the independent construction the bath takes a little time, but this will not affect its service life in any way. According to the reviews of many owners of such structures, they can easily last several decades, strong enough to withstand gusts of wind and heavy snowfalls.

We propose to follow the following sequence of work:

Foundation pouring. This requires previously purchased asbestos pipes. First, wells with diameters of at least 200 mm and a depth of up to 1.5 meters are dug or drilled. Pipes are inserted into them, the vertical position is set using a level. Along the perimeter, the well is covered with sand, and the pipe itself is filled with concrete mortar. The sand around the pipe is carefully compacted.
Floor laying. Attached to asbestos pipes wooden beam as shown in the photo. Subfloor boards, vapor barrier and insulation are laid on the fixed beam. The flooring is laid last. The entire tree must be treated with an antiseptic to protect against pests and decay. Mineral wool is suitable as a heater.
Wall construction frame bath. The assembly of the walls begins with the formation of a corner. Wood and logs are fastened together with nails. The last step is the installation of the inner lining, which is carefully polished. The external parts of the frame bath will be exposed to high temperatures and high humidity, so they must be treated twice with furniture varnish.
Roof erection. Timbers with a diameter of 150x150 mm are laid on the upper trim, the distance between them is 50 cm. The rafters are assembled. The roof must be assembled taking into account some features. For example, it must be well ventilated, strong enough and well protected by roofing material. The ceiling is insulated, and lining is used for sheathing.
Finishing work. To the lags front side the boards are attached after the installation of the vapor barrier material. All voids are filled heat-insulating material. In the brick steam room, fences are built to protect the walls from the high temperature emanating from the boiler or stove. Outside, the walls can be sheathed with any finishing material. For example, siding, which is quickly mounted and inexpensive. You can use pine boards, which cover the entire structure around the outer perimeter.

Despite the fact that the frame bath is assembled quickly, but is simply arranged, this building comes out quite attractive and practical. It is simple and inexpensive to maintain the structure, and with proper operation it will last more than 50 years.

Do-it-yourself frame bath: video from foundation to roof

Owners country house more and more often they prefer a frame bath; it is simple and inexpensive to build it with your own hands. Photo and video from the foundation to the roof

Do-it-yourself frame bath: ready-made drawings, step-by-step guide and finishing recommendations

Building a frame bath with your own hands is quite simple. If it is also properly insulated and protected from moisture, it will be possible to get a steam room, which will practically not be inferior to structures made of stones or logs.

Advantages and disadvantages of a frame bath

Each building material has its own advantages and disadvantages that must be considered. IN Lately frame baths began to be popular, so it makes sense to find out what they are better designs from other materials.

The advantages of such a bath:

However, it is important to know that the frame bath has significant disadvantages:

The cost of insulation and finishing materials. By itself, a frame building is cheaper than a stone or timber steam room, but the cost increases several times during finishing and insulation work. Panels for decoration and plastering are needed.
Shrinkage. The process takes at least 2 years, while the building may sink by 10 cm. This may lead to deformation of the finishing layer. To reduce the effects of shrinkage, it is recommended to use chamber drying materials during the construction process.
The difficulty of choosing a quality material for insulation. If you use budget mineral wool, then the bath will not be able to fully cope with its functions. The use of budget polystyrene foam is also not allowed, since the material ignites easily.

Preparation for construction: project drawings

Creating a drawing requires certain skills. If they are not there, then it is better to entrust the execution of this work to a specialist or use a ready-made drawing.

Before drawing up a diagram, it is important to decide on the following points:

In the drawing, you need to enter all the information received, as well as supplement the project with the necessary details. The more detailed the scheme, the easier it is to build a bath.

The more detailed the project, the easier it is to make a frame bath with your own hands.

The composition of the standard bath includes a corridor, dressing room, washing room and a wig.

A standard frame bath consists of a dressing room, a steam room, a shower room and a rest room.

Quite often, a separate rest room is provided. On the diagram it is recommended to mark the place of installation of the furnace. If it is a steam room, then the stove is best placed in the corner closest to the door. The stove can be stone or brick.

It is recommended to determine in advance the dimensions of each of the rooms and designate them in the drawing. Standard sizes steam rooms - 200x240 cm. Optimal Height the ceiling is 220 cm. 2-3 people can be in this design at the same time.

In the drawing you can see a bathhouse for a suburban area with a balcony measuring 1.5x4 m. The overall dimensions of the building are 4x6 m. The project is suitable for organizing gatherings in an open area in the summer.

The frame bath can be equipped with a terrace for gatherings in the warm season

Such a bath consists of 3 rooms:

The corridor is shown separately in the diagram. There is no room for a locker room. There is a small changing area in the washroom. The terrace connects to the living room.

The optimal wall thickness of the frame structure is 100 mm or more. The wood that is used in the process of making a bath must be treated with an antiseptic. It is recommended to use dried calibrated lumber.

It is obligatory to perform a vapor barrier of the insulating material on the internal base. In the steam room you need to use a foil vapor barrier. The reflective layer is able to increase the temperature inside the steam room.

Walls and ceilings in the stove area should be made using flame-retardant materials. For example, the frame is made of a rack metal profile, which is coated with zinc. Cutting can be made from asbestos cord. In these places, a basalt slab can be used as an insulating material.

Be sure to supply and exhaust ventilation in all rooms. The floors in the sink should be made with a slight slope or screed. The upper and lower floors must be insulated in the same way as the walls.

The minimum size of a frame bath is 3x4 m.

The minimum size of the bath for a comfortable stay of several people is 3x4 m

The budget version of the frame is done in this way: the racks are sheathed from the inside and outside boards up to 25 mm, basalt insulation or ecowool is laid inside the frame structure.

If you plan to use ecowool inside the walls, it should be carefully compacted and horizontal platforms for unloading should be installed. The frame must be sheathed inside and out. To do this, you need to make a crate. From the outside, the insulation material is covered with a membrane to protect it from the wind. In the horizontal plane, the use of ecowool is a more economical option compared to basalt insulation.

Outside, the frame structure can be covered with any facing material. Inside the building is sheathed with clapboard, drywall sheets with tiles or imitation timber.

The frame should be assembled from the following parts:

bars;
rails for creating crates;
floor boards.

Instead of flooring from boards, the floor base can be tiled. You need to choose based on personal preferences, however, in the case of a steam room, it is recommended to give preference to wood. There will also be materials for protection. Quite often, lining is used for wall cladding.

It is recommended to sheathe a frame bath with a clapboard made of wood

For sheathing the structure from the outside, larch lining can be used. Inside, the building is sheathed with clapboard made of coniferous trees. Sheathing boards must be fixed vertically.

excess moisture and fever will negatively affect the structural elements, so it will not be possible to do without the use of special protective materials. You can use glassine, polyethylene or roofing material. The vapor barrier should be placed between the thermal insulation and the cladding. The disadvantage of roofing material is that in the process of heating it will emit an unpleasant odor. Therefore, it is not recommended to use it.

You need to pay attention to the selection of material for thermal insulation. In the case of a competent choice and proper installation of insulation, it will be possible to significantly reduce heat losses, as well as the cost of heating a bath building.

In most cases, mineral wool is used as a heater.

A good insulating material for a frame bath is mineral wool.

A good option is to use fiberglass. In some cases, the ceiling is insulated with expanded polystyrene, and the floor base with expanded clay.

Calculation of materials and list of tools

As an example, the calculation for the frame bath of the most common sizes will be considered. The frame is made of timber, the size of the structure is 5x4 m. The base will be columnar reinforced.

For the frame structure, you can use a lightweight foundation of asbestos-cement pipes

To finish the walls inside and outside, lining of coniferous trees is used. The roof will be gable, covered with metal tiles.

The actual moment is the choice of wood. The material must be dried. Linden, larch or aspen are most suitable. These rocks have low thermal conductivity, they are able to maintain the original shape of the structure for a long period of time. The walls are built from boards 2-3 cm thick. Larch or pine slats are suitable for external cladding.

The columnar reinforced base, in terms of cost and reliability, is the best option for frame construction.

The columnar reinforced foundation is suitable for the construction of frame baths in most regions

It can be used in most regions. You will need to prepare materials in the following quantity:

concrete - 2 m 3;
edged boards for the frame - 0.3 m 3;
reinforcing bars - 80 m.

The frame can be made from boards, pieces of plywood sheets or OSB. If the soil on the construction site is clayey, then formwork is not necessary.

The most complex and financially costly part of the bath is the frame. The acquisition of materials at this stage must be approached carefully. List of required materials:

timber 120x120 mm - 5.3 m 3;
mineral wool 10 cm thick - 36 m 2;
vapor barrier material - 40 m 2;
lining made of wood - 70 m 2;
material for waterproofing - 40 m 2.

To save money, instead of bars, you can buy boards 50x100 mm.

To save money, you can use edged boards 50x100 mm in the process of making the frame

The beam must be of the second grade and lower, the board can only be of the first grade. Wall cladding from the outside can be made not with wooden clapboard, but with plastic sheets or corrugated board.

The floor is made of edged veneered board. The ceiling should be upholstered with clapboard. If you want to save money, you can use mineral wool for thermal insulation. List of materials:

edged boards - 1.8 m 3;
boards 150x50 mm - 0.2 m 3;
plinth - 20 m;
mineral wool - 20 m 2;
lining made of wood - 20 m 2.

Save money on attic flooring. If it is not planned to use it, then mineral wool can be covered with an unedged board or pieces of slabs.

The roof is gable, the attic can be used to store tools.

The best option frame structure is a gable roof

It is not necessary to insulate the roof. The rafters will hang. You will need the following materials:

drainage system - 1 set;
slats for rafters - 0.2 m 3;
slats for lathing - 0.1 m 3;
cornice slats - 0.1 m 3;
metal tile - 20 m 2.

In the bath, quite often, instead of a drain, a perimeter blind area is equipped with a cement-sand mortar.

It is important to think over all the architectural and construction tasks, which include:

internal lining of the bath building;
selection of optimal materials for construction work;
actions that are required to ensure the safe use of the structure.

After preparing the tools and materials, you can proceed to construction work.

Step-by-step instructions for making with a photo

A building of this type has a small weight, so the base can be lightweight. The easiest way is to make a columnar foundation on asbestos cement pipes, which will later be filled with concrete mortar. Sequencing:

Next is the binding of the structure. To do this, prepare slats with a section of 100x50 mm. Materials will need to be pre-treated with an antiseptic mixture to protect them from decay. The marking of the walls is carried out, after which the slats are set along the outer line.

Before tying, the boards must be treated with an antiseptic.

The boards must be positioned with an outer edge and nails must be driven in for fixation. The plinth trim can be connected using supports.

The upper and lower trims should be made of boards, while the lower one must be cut off from the base so that it is possible to lay the roofing material. The horizontal position should be checked with a level. If deviations are found, only a few layers will need to be laid.

Intermediate racks are mounted taking into account the fact that it will be possible to install heat-insulating and sheathing materials in the future. To increase the strength of the structure, the strapping and logs should be fastened using pre-fixed iron plates.

To give strength to the structure, it is recommended to use metal plates

The strapping must be treated with a mixture that prevents rotting.

How to make walls

In the process of building walls, the center distance is essential. The indicator will be equal to 0.6 m, provided that the preparation of the opening and docking with the rest of the walls is not planned. Otherwise, the gap must be reduced to 0.4 m. The distance between the posts will depend on the dimensions of the doors and windows. For the frame, you need to use boards 50x100 mm. The sequence of actions for the construction of walls:

If you plan to make a frame bath with an attic, you need to leave room for installing doors and windows.

For the frame structure, 100 mm strips are used, so the insulation must be of the appropriate thickness.

The thickness of the mineral wool must match the thickness of the boards

During the installation process, the excess length and width can be compressed, as a result, the resulting gaps will be tightly closed.

In the process of insulation, each connection must be carefully inspected, otherwise the structure will be leaky. Such baths are unusable. Steam and waterproofing is made of foil. The minimum material thickness is 40 microns. Foil joints are sealed with adhesive tape or foil film. The foil is laid in strips from the bottom up. To secure the foil to wooden details you need to use a manual stapler.

How to arrange a roof

For convenience, you can make a template that will make it easy to assemble the rafter system.

Mounting gable roof must be done according to the plan. A template can make the process easier

You will need to do the following:

The roof must be assembled on the ground, and then lifted up. Each design is located above the corresponding rack.
To facilitate the work, temporary ceilings from thick planks can be laid on the slats.
Every detail has own place above the rack, so it is important not to make mistakes when performing calculations.
The roof is recommended to be ventilated. To do this, it is necessary to lay the crate and ondulin between the rafter legs and the counter-rail.
Gables need to be covered with OSB boards.
Doors and windows are being installed.

After that, you can carry out the sheathing of the structure on both sides. It is also important to take care of high-quality ventilation. For a small bath, an asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 12 cm is suitable. The part must be taken out to the attic.

Outside, the bath is sheathed with siding, boards, plaster or ceramic tiles. A waterproofing material should be laid under the casing. The resulting gaps can be filled with material for thermal insulation. Between the lining and the foil, you need to leave a small gap for ventilation. For this purpose, strips a few cm thick should be nailed to the vertical supporting parts. The distance between the elements must be selected taking into account the distance between the supports.

In the diagram you can see the design of the wall cladding

To stiffen the walls, they need to be upholstered with plaster shingles. After the cladding work is completed, the structure must be plastered from the outside.

Guide inner lining frame structure:

The interior of the building must not be painted, as paints and varnishes will release harmful chemicals during the heating process.
To make a draft ceiling, OSB boards should be used. They must be fixed at the bottom of the floor beams.
The walls in the steam room need to be covered with foil. The rest of the walls can be covered with glassine.
The minimum ceiling height is 2.2 m. In this case, it will be possible to install a lining and additionally insulate the ceiling.
It is important to pay attention to the joints between the walls and ceiling structure. The vapor barrier material must protrude at least 15 cm.

Reiki can be nailed in different ways - in the process of fitting, a sample is made into a groove or a quarter. The slats must be fastened to the lags with the front part.

There is no need to make air gaps between the foil and corrugated board, the sheets are nailed to the foil. Fixation is carried out using self-tapping screws with rubber gaskets.

After that, the installation of the furnace and boiler is carried out. It is important to remember the rules fire safety. The wall that will be used for soaring and a place to rest should be made of brick. The heating boiler is recommended to be placed in the dressing room. The best option is a brick oven, however, if there is no experience in laying a similar design, it is recommended to entrust this work to a qualified stove-maker.

In the process of working with foil, you need to be careful, as the material is easily damaged. Any gaps will significantly reduce the effectiveness of thermal insulation. The vapor barrier should be fixed with a stapler, while it is important to ensure that there is no sagging of the material. The minimum distance between the wooden lining and the insulating material is 1 cm.

In the bath, the foil is best fixed with an ordinary stapler.

Frame structures are convenient in terms of decoration. Work can be done both inside and outside. If there is a forced break, you can make partition frames at this time, upholster them with a blockhouse or clapboard. In this case, the time will be spent with benefit.

For most regions, the optimal thickness of the walls of a frame building is 10 cm. Warming can be done both with mineral wool and with expanded polystyrene. A layer of mineral wool 12 cm thick can replace a wall of 50 cm thick bars.

You can insulate the bath from the inside with mineral wool

For northern regions with a cold climate, there are 2 methods of warming the bath:

If you plan to use expanded polystyrene, then after installing the sheets, you need to make a screed of small thickness using a mesh of reinforcement. At the end, a top coat should be applied.

It is not recommended to use sawdust and clay for ceiling insulation.

During the cooking process, they will be mixed in water with clay, and therefore the insulation will have a lot of weight. In addition, a large amount of liquid often causes wood ceiling parts to get wet. This has a negative impact on performance characteristics bath building.

Framed walls are great bait for rodents that love Styrofoam. For 2-3 years, solid sheets can turn into dust. Therefore, it is not recommended to use expanded polystyrene for insulation of rooms inside the frame structure.

Particular attention should be paid to the quality of vapor and waterproofing. Such a bath does not have free supports, each of them will carry the load and hold other parts of the building. If strength is compromised due to prolonged exposure to moisture with one post, the bath may become unstable. In this case, complex repairs will be necessary. It is best to prevent such a situation even at the stage of warming the rooms.

To isolate the insulation, it is best to use an aluminum film.

It is best to isolate the insulation with aluminum film

However, the material is not cheap. If you want to save money, you can use plastic wrap. The material is cheaper, however, in terms of vapor and hydroprotection, it is practically not inferior to foil. It should be remembered that polyethylene can be damaged by exposure to sunlight. For this reason, it is important to complete the sheathing of the frames. This will reliably protect the film from exposure to ultraviolet radiation.

It is not an easy task to build a bath from a log house, however, the construction technology, the choice of materials and even the exact sequence of actions have long been known and worked out by many craftsmen. This material explains all the key points that will help in the construction of a log bath: from laying the foundation to interior decoration.

The steam bath has been known since the time of the Scythians, who carried with them special bath tents and camping stoves. And in the 21st century, the Russian bath did not become a kind of archaism, having successfully withstood centuries of competition with baths and showers. Get rid of many ailments, remove from the body harmful substances accumulated in urban everyday life, give the body a good rest - all this is achieved when visiting a bath for more than one and a half thousand years.

Which design is preferable, how to choose a place to place it, how it works in general - you will find answers to many "bath" questions in this article.

Location and layout of the bath

One of the important additions to the bath itself at all times was a reservoir with fresh water, located nearby - in the absence of another source of water supply, water was taken from it. A special charm in the proximity of such a reservoir lies in the possibility of a contrast bath - after taking a steam bath in a Russian bathhouse, run out of it and plunge into the cool water of the reservoir. In addition, a natural reservoir made it possible to quickly cope with the fire of the bath, which arose quite often due to violations in the construction of the stove.

Today, there is no particular need to link a country bath to a natural reservoir, but it is still convenient if it is located near, say, an artificial reservoir - the final decision always remains with the owner of the cottage.

The main criteria for choosing a place for a bath: distance from the road, the presence of a natural or artificial fence from strangers (dense bushes, tree crowns, a fence, outbuildings), a fire-prevention distance from the main residential building of at least 15 meters.

The main rooms of the bath are the dressing room, the washing room and the steam room (the last two rooms can be combined into one). The size of the dressing room is determined at the rate of 1.4 m 2 for each bather, the size of the washing room is 1.2 m 2 for one person. In addition, in the dressing room there should be a place for furniture (locker for clothes, benches for sitting) and for storing fuel (box for coal or firewood). In the washing room you will need a place for containers with hot and cold water, stoves and a place for sunbeds.

For example, for a small family (no more than 4 people), a bathhouse of the following sizes is suitable: external size - 4x4 m; dressing room - 1.5x2.4 m; washing - 2x2 m; steam room - 2x1.5 m. True, in a bath of this size you can’t really turn around - but it also takes up little space.

In general, the size of the bath is directly related to the size of the area that can be allocated for it. If the site is significant, then the bath can be expanded by adding a shower cabin, relaxation rooms, etc. to it.

In temperate and cold climatic zones, it will be correct if the entrance to the bathhouse is located in the south, and the window openings are on its western (southwestern) side. Such an arrangement of the entrance will greatly simplify the use of the bathhouse in the winter season, since the snowdrifts on the south side melt faster, and the direction of the windows will make it possible to illuminate its premises with sunlight longer.

Bath construction - stages

There are several of them:

Procurement of basic materials.
Selection and laying of the foundation.
Creation of a foundation for a stove-heater (if necessary).
Creating a floor and sewer system baths.
Assembling the log cabin.
Roof construction.
Formation of a blind area around the perimeter.
Caulking bath walls.
Laying or installation of a furnace, installation of a chimney.
Electricity and water supply of the bath.
Installation of doors and installation of shelves.

Preparation of basic materials for the bath

The classic and most successful structural material for the Russian bath was and will be wood - wood easily copes with waterlogging of bath rooms, removing excess moisture to the outside.

What wood is suitable for building a bath? As a rule, baths are built from pine or spruce round timber with a diameter of no more than 250 mm - only wood will create an indescribable internal atmosphere in the steam room. However, in some places it is better to include wood of other species in the design of the bath - oak, larch and linden. For example, the lower crowns and logs for flooring, made of oak, will allow you to get a truly durable bath. Nuance - the oak must be cut down "in the juice itself" (that is, not dead wood) and dried under a canopy. The lower crowns (no more than 4), following the first oak, are best made from larch. The final crowns, elements of interior decoration and cladding should be made of linden or white spruce - their wood removes moisture better than others.

When do you need to store wood for building a bath? Round timber, wood for interior decoration must be cut down in winter, during the period when tree trunks contain the least amount of moisture - it is easier to dry. In addition, not the entire tree trunk is suitable for building a bath - only the middle part of the trunk is suitable, that is, the top and butt are not suitable.

An important criterion in the selection of wood will be the absence of cavities and streaks of resin on the round timber of coniferous species, dryness, a sanded surface, the absence of rotten areas and places of damage by woodworms.

Bath foundation

The main types of foundation for the construction of baths are strip and columnar, depending on local soils. Regardless of the chosen type of foundation, it is necessary to lay them with the utmost care - it is better if to the depth of soil freezing. Preliminary work before laying the foundation of any type: cleaning the site from debris, complete removal of the topsoil to a depth of 200 mm (we remove the fertile layer).

To choose the right foundation, you need to determine the type of local soil, which can belong to one of three main groups:

Weak soil consists of peat, silt, silty sand (contains a lot of water), fluid clay or fluid plastic.
Heaving soil (subject to seasonal swelling) consists of sand (dusty or fine), clay components (clay, loam and sandy loam).
Slightly heaving soil is formed by rocks, medium and large grains of sand.

Columnar (pile) foundation for a bath

Arranged on slightly heaving soils: it consists of pillars laid in the corners of the bath, as well as at the junctions of internal and external walls. If the distance between two adjacent foundation pillars is more than 2 m, another pillar is laid between them. Bookmark depth column foundation- not less than 1.5 m.

Pillars for such a foundation are easy to make directly at the construction site of the bath; the material for them can be red brick, rubble stone, connected with concrete mortar. The main (corner) brick pillars for a columnar foundation are usually square in shape, with a side of 380 mm, auxiliary ones are rectangular, with a section of 380x250 mm. If necessary, the main pillars are made in two bricks - with a section of 510x510 mm. Saving rubble stone and brick during the construction of a columnar foundation is achieved by filling the foundation pits with sand - half their depth, coarse sand is laid in layers (each layer - 100-150 mm), filled with water and rammed.

Foundation pillars when building a bath with your own hands can also be done independently. This will require a collapsible formwork made of boards, smeared from the inside with a non-hardening lubricant of the Emulsol type. Inside the assembled formwork, you need to place iron reinforcement, then pour the concrete mixture.

For casting foundation pillars inside the pits dug for them, a sliding formwork made of roofing iron, plastic, roofing paper or thick cardboard is used. From the material selected for the sliding formwork, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm or more is created, placed in a foundation pit of a larger diameter - from 300 mm. The free space around the formwork is covered with sand - it will act as a lubricant and prevent lifting concrete pillar during swelling of the soil. Reinforcement tied with thick wire is inserted inside the formwork, then the concrete mixture is poured, which must be carefully compacted. For wire handles, previously fixed on the sliding formwork, it is lifted by 400 mm by rocking, sand is poured from the outside and a new batch of concrete is poured.

Asbestos-cement pipes can be used as a columnar foundation, they are durable, not subject to decay, and their outer surface is quite smooth, which allows them not to change their position when the soil swells. Asbestos-cement pipes are also filled with concrete, their underground part must be covered with a mineral-based construction lubricant to reduce the risk of freezing to the ground.

Between the foundation pillars of the outer walls of the bathhouse and the inner walls of the steam room, brick walls are laid out, their sufficient thickness is brick and even half a brick. Such brick walls must be buried in the ground by 250 mm.

Foundation pillars and brick walls between them are raised to a height of 300-400 mm from the ground level, they must be leveled with cement mortar and covered with roofing material for waterproofing. At the ends of the pillars, during casting, mortgages of the required shape made of metal are installed - they are designed to fasten the log cabin of the bath to the foundation.

When building a bath on heaving soils, it will be necessary to create a tape monolithic foundation.

Sequence of work:

Marking the construction site with twine stretched between pegs.
Digging a trench of the required depth (its size is related to the characteristics of local soils, at least 400 mm) and 300 mm wide.
Adding a layer of sand to the bottom of the trench, then gravel (each 70-100 mm).
Formwork installation.
Reinforcement tab.
fill concrete mix.

The reinforcement laid on the bottom of the foundation trenches must have a cross section of at least 12 mm, it is laid along each of the two sides of the trench and knitted into a frame, lifting it to its middle with the help of brick fragments.

The composition of the concrete mixture is calculated in a ratio of 5:3:1 (crushed stone:sand:cement), the sand used must be dry and clean (washed). It is quite simple to calculate the volume of concrete required to pour a strip foundation, you just need to measure the width, depth and total length of the foundation. For example, with a width of 0.3 m, a depth of 0.4 m and a total length of 22 m, the following volume of concrete mixture will be required:

0.3 x 0.4 x 22 \u003d 2.64 m 3

One of the difficulties in the preparation of a dry mix of concrete is the lack of scales at construction sites. Therefore, this method of calculating dry components for concrete will come in handy: one 10-liter bucket holds from 15 to 17 kg of gravel, sand - from 14 to 17 kg, cement - from 13 to 14 kg.

The formwork is placed in such a way that the concrete foundation cast into it protrudes 100 mm above the ground level. As the concrete mixture is poured into the prepared formwork, its mass must be repeatedly pierced with a bayonet shovel or wire probe, tap the outside of the formwork with a hammer (we eliminate air pockets). Then you need to wait for the foundation to completely harden, about 5 to 7 days. When carrying out foundation work in the cold season, the formwork after pouring concrete must be covered with PVC film and covered with sawdust or other insulation on top.

After the period allotted for drying the cast foundation, we proceed to its waterproofing and lifting with brick rows (if the bath is not required, then, after waterproofing, we proceed to the cement screed). You will need the following materials:

Ruberoid.
Pipe about 2 m (plastic or metal), section from 32 to 57 mm.
The grid is masonry.
Red brick.
Masonry mortar.

Roofing material (roofing) is cut into strips sufficient for flooring on a concrete foundation, then laid out on top of the foundation on bituminous mastic(for roofing - tar mastic). The brick is laid in a single-row dressing method: a masonry mortar is laid out on a layer of roofing material, the first brick row “in a poke” (across the foundation axis) is laid on it, then a masonry mesh is laid, the mortar and the next brick row are laid, but already “in a spoon” (along the axis foundation). Each new row brickwork is accompanied by a laying of masonry mesh, laying "in spoons" and "poke" alternate with each other. In the 3rd or 5th bonded rows of masonry, you need to install ventilation vents from pipe scraps - 5-7 vents are enough for the entire foundation. The number of brick rows depends on the desired height of the foundation.

The last row of brickwork is covered with a cement screed (the composition of the solution is sand:cement as 1:2 or 1:3), with a 20 mm layer.

Independent foundation for the heater and sauna floor

We create the foundation for the stove-heater and assemble the bath house. If a major laying of a heater is expected, it needs an independent foundation, that is, not connected with the main foundation.

The floor in the bath can be clay, earth, wood or concrete. By and large, it does not need thermal insulation, since the temperature at its level is practically no higher than 30 ° C. A wooden grate, cork mats or mats are usually laid on the surface of the bath floor - their task is to relieve bath visitors from the sharp feeling of cold caused by touching the floor at the exit from the steam room. For self-drying, the flooring rises above the level of the main floor.

The main disadvantage of the wooden floor of the bath is its frequent waterlogging - water, penetrating through the cracks between the boards, will accumulate in them, causing rotting and an unpleasant odor. wood flooring the floor wears out quickly, acquiring an unsightly appearance, after 6-8 years it may require replacement. More practical for bath flooring will be tile- it is easier to take care of it, it is not affected by moisture, which easily flows down its surface.

The floors in the bath rooms should be placed at different levels: the floor of the steam room is 150 mm higher than the floor of the washing room (we keep warm), the floor of the washing room is 30 mm lower than the floor level in the dressing room (we protect against water ingress).

Since the installation of a concrete floor with ceramic tiles in the washing room and steam room is more profitable than a wooden floor, we will consider this option.

There are several ways to arrange a concrete floor in a bath. First of all, we prepare the base for the formation of a warm floor - it consists of a 100 mm layer of sand and a 100 mm layer of crushed stone of the middle fraction, laid in series. Each layer should be well compacted and leveled. Then lay a roofing material on top, covering the walls with it to the height of the future floor.

Further actions:

First option- flooring of a 50 mm layer of felt, expanded clay or slag, on top of a 50 mm layer of concrete with the formation of a slope to the drain hole. After the concrete has set, it must be leveled with a cement solution, after which you can proceed to tile work.
Second option- 50 mm cement screed containing perlite (expanded sand). Composition of the mixture: perlite:cement:water as 5:1:3. After a full week from the moment of laying the perlite concrete, we apply a 30 mm layer of concrete on top with a slope under the drain. When dealing with perlite, you need to be especially careful - this material is extremely light, even a light breeze blows it away, so you need to work with it indoors without drafts. Correctly observe the proportion of water!

With a significant rise in the basement of the bath above the ground (from 300 mm), wooden logs of square section (side 150 mm) will be required for flooring. If the dimensions of the bathhouse do not exceed 2000x3000 mm, then the logs will be supported by the logs. For larger sizes, additional supports for floor logs will be required, they are pillars made of concrete or brick (250x250 mm) and are placed at a distance of 700-800 mm. Support pillars for logs must be placed on a multilayer base of sand, crushed stone and concrete - each 100 mm.

Important! Before forming the base for the support of the log, it is necessary to make a foundation for the stove-heater and build a sewerage system.

Wood for logs can be oak, larch or conifers, logs should be treated with tar or antiseptic before installation.

The flooring solution in this case is as follows: the concrete space between the foundation is covered with roofing material with walls overlapping to the height of the floor, covered with slag or expanded clay (between the roofing material layer and bulk insulation you can lay a layer of 200 mm polystyrene), a draft floor of 29 mm edged boards is attached to the underside of the joists. Then a PVC film is laid, foil mineral insulation, again a layer of film - for vapor barrier. On top we pour a 5 mm layer of concrete with a fine fraction filler, create a slope under the drain hole - after 3-4 days we put ceramic tiles.

Do not forget to bring the foundation for the furnace to floor level.

The floor in the dressing room is made of 19-29 mm grooved boards made of softwood.

An important point: when finishing a clean floor, and indeed the entire steam room and washing room, do not use synthetic building materials - the condition is especially important for a steam room!

Bath sewerage system

To drain wastewater from the bath, you will need: a pit with a water seal, a sewage well and pipes that drain dirty water into the pit and then into the sewer well.

The pit is torn off outside the foundation of the bath, gravity pipes made of plastic, cast iron or ceramics are brought into it from the steam room and washing room ( metal pipes rust quickly).

The pit should be 500 mm from the foundation, its depth - 700 mm, section - 500x500 mm. The walls of the pit are covered with a 100 mm layer of concrete, a 110 mm drain pipe (pipes) from the bath is inserted into it under the foundation. The main well for drains, containing at least 2 m 3, must be dug at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the pit - the farther the better. A pipe is brought to it from the pit, laid under a slope at a depth of 1.5 m (below the freezing depth), its outlet from the pit must be located 100 mm from its bottom. After entering the drain pipe, the main sewage well is filled with gravel or sand 1 m from the bottom, soil is poured on top - a layer of at least 500 mm. When laying, carefully tamp each layer.

Before the outlet of the drain pipe into the pit, a galvanized water seal is installed, located at an obtuse angle to the drain pipe from the bath. Its edges and upper side are hermetically attached to the walls of the pit, the distance from its lower edge to the bottom should be no more than 50 mm - thanks to this design, unpleasant odors and cold air will not penetrate into the steam room (washing room) through the drain hole.

To prevent freezing in winter, the pit must be closed with two covers of the appropriate size (wooden or metal), felt should be laid between them, and the top cover covered with expanded clay, slag or sawdust.

Shed, roof and blind area

It is better to make a log house for a bath to order from professional performers; its manufacture is quite difficult. The finished log house in disassembled form must be brought to the construction site and assembled according to the numbering of the logs. Crowns are fastened with 25 mm steel spikes with a total length of up to 150 mm, a tooth length of up to 70 mm.

The design of the roof of the bath includes rafters, a crate is attached to them, then roofing material. The choice of the final roof structure depends on the roof covering with which it will be covered. The rafters are attached to the last crown of the log house (better to the penultimate one) with the help of staples-thorns. As a rule, the construction of baths involves the arrangement of a single or gable roof, the slope angle (from 10 ° to 60 °) of which depends on the abundance and amount of precipitation in the area. Keep in mind - the steeper the roof, the more material is required to create it.

Shed rafters, located at an angle, are fixed with two external or internal and external supports. If the span of the rafters exceeds 5 m, they are supported with additional struts. The rafters of a gable roof rest with their lower ends on the walls, the upper ends are interconnected, forming a ridge.

The roof of the bath can be covered with any material (slate, tiles, roofing material, galvanized, etc.), with an overlap on the walls of at least 500 mm.

The attic space must be made ventilated, that is, equipped with two doors at opposite ends of the roof.

We carry out a blind area along the foundation perimeter: we completely remove the top layer of soil, deepen by 200 mm at a distance of 600-800 mm from the basement of the bath, lay a 100 mm layer of gravel (crushed stone, expanded clay) with its subsequent leveling. We lay the expansion joints (19 mm board coated with resin or bitumen, with a step of 2-2.5 m perpendicular to the foundation), pour a 100 mm layer of concrete. Before the concrete sets, its surface must be ironed - dry cement is covered with a layer of 3-5 mm. After 3 days, the line of contact between the blind area and the foundation of the bath must be covered with bitumen for its waterproofing.

Caulker of a bath house

It is carried out for warming the log house - sealing the cracks between its logs, flax tow, red moss, hemp hemp, wool felt are traditionally used for caulking. Natural materials for caulking can be replaced with factory-made materials made from jute and flax fibers: linen and felt - jute and flax-jute. The advantage of factory materials for caulking over natural ones is resistance to moth and fungus damage, and it is easier to work with factory material, because it is produced in the form of a continuous tape of a given thickness and width.

The caulking of the log house is carried out during its assembly - the caulking material is laid between the logs during their laying. After the construction of the roof, a full caulk is performed - from the outer and inner sides of the log house, a year later - repeated caulking (the log house is upset - the logs dry).

The main tools for caulking are a spatula and a mallet, you can make them yourself or buy ready-made ones. Both of these instruments are made of wood (ash, oak or beech). A caulking spatula looks like a wedge with a handle 200 mm long and a pointed blade 100 mm, handle thickness 30 mm, blade width at the base 65 mm, at the end - 30 mm. The wooden mallet has a rounded shape: the handle diameter is 40 mm, its length is 250 mm, the impact part diameter is 70 mm, and the length is 100 mm.

Caulking is performed in two ways - “in a set” or “in a stretch”. In the second way, we caulk like this: we collect the caulking material into a strand, lay it in the gap between the logs and push it in with a spatula, filling the gap completely, without gaps. Then we collect the tow with a roller, apply it to the caulked groove, take out small strands of material from it, wrap the roller around them and drive it into the groove with the help of a spatula and a roller - with force, until we are completely sure that the groove (slot) is filled.

The first method of caulking log cabins is designed to cover grooves (slots) of large width. We twist the material for caulking with 2 mm strands, form several loops from them and drive them into the slot. Loops are recruited in an amount sufficient to completely fill the gap.

Caulking rules:

first, the material is hammered along the upper edge of the log, and only after that - along the bottom;
we start work on caulking from the slots of the lower crown, on both sides. Then we move on to the lower crown of the adjacent wall and so on. Having finished caulking the slots of the lower crowns, we begin work on the next one in height, moving from this crown to the next one in the nearest wall (right to left or left to right, it doesn’t matter).

In no case do not caulk only one wall - it will rise and cause the log house to skew, you will have to disassemble / assemble it again. Recall once again: caulking is performed in the direction "from bottom to top" along the perimeter of the log house.

We put the oven

There are many design options for sauna stoves, they can be heated with wood, gas, liquid fuel or use built-in heating elements and be heated by electricity, they can be brick, cast iron or metal. Brick ovens in baths are made with a wall thickness of “half a brick” or “a whole brick”, masonry joints must be bandaged especially carefully, striving for their smallest thickness in order to achieve the greatest efficiency of the furnace. Only red brick is used for laying stoves. The firebox of the stove is taken out into the waiting room, its remaining three walls are in the washing room (steam room), while the distance from them to the walls of the washing room should be at least 250 mm - in this case, the heat will not go “into the walls”.

For a cast-iron or metal furnace, the formation of an independent foundation is not required - only for a brick one.

The heaters installed for those who like to take a steam bath are equipped with a chamber containing stones of various weights (from 1 to 5 kg). But, pebbles, boulders and granite are suitable for filling the chamber of the heater. The design of these furnaces is extremely simple - similar to cookers, heaters differ from them in a pipe of greater width or in the presence of a chamber with stones.

To obtain the highest temperature in the steam room, iron ingots must be added to the stones at a percentage of 80:20 (stones: ingots). For every 1 m 3 of a steam room, at least 6 kg of stones and cast iron ingots will be required.

If a distance of 40-50 mm is observed in the furnace between its walls and the water-heating boiler, the effect of a comprehensive blowing of the boiler with hot gases and the fastest heating of water is achieved.

For better draft, you need to bring the chimney as close as possible to the roof ridge. When passing the chimney through the attic space, be sure to fluff the chimney 380 mm. Remember that the pipe should not pass near the roof sheathing and rafters closer than 150 mm (fire regulations).

Electricity and water supply of the bath

At least 8 liters are required for washing one bath user hot water. There are several ways to provide such an amount: heat a container of water on the stove, use geyser, install electric heater- boiler. If there is a central water supply, the pipeline to the bathhouse is led from the main house - water from such a pipeline system must be drained in winter, otherwise it will freeze and break the pipes.

Water can be taken from a well or well by installing a submersible pump for pumping it and supplying such a water supply system with cleaning filters. And in this case, in winter, the water must either be drained after each use of the bath, or the supply pipes must be insulated.

To the bath you need to stretch an independent line for supplying electricity and the easiest way is to do it by air (air). For air, you will need a special cable - we sweep away the “bare” aluminum cable right away, dwelling on two options: SIP (self-supporting insulated wire) and VVGng. The first type of cable is very good, it has a long service life (more than 30 years), it is durable and does not need to be supported by a carrier cable. But it is extremely difficult to carry out installation work with it, because it is too thick (the minimum cross section is 16 mm 2). Aluminum SIP cannot be pulled through the attic of the bath according to fire safety standards; it is required to mount it on special anchor clamps - in terms of the amount of costs and hassle with its installation, its cost will be expensive.

A simpler solution is an air duct with a VVGng copper cable fixed on a supporting steel cable. The cable is suspended from a cable on a wire insulated with plastic, its service life is up to 10 years, after which it must be replaced (!). For a single-core cable VVGng (of course, there must be two cores - each of them must be in an independent double braid), stretched through the air to the bath, the optimal section will be 2.5 mm 2 - it is not known exactly what kind of electrical equipment the owner of the dacha wants to power from it in the future.

All junction boxes, sockets and switches, electrical panel must be outdoor installation only. According to the rules fire safety it is forbidden to install junction boxes, switches and sockets in the washing / steam room - only in the dressing room. Do not joke with the possibility of a short circuit in a wooden structure - all internal wiring of the bath should be made only in a non-combustible corrugated hose, fixed to special clips, the cable passing through partitions - only through a steel pipe.

Try to arrange the cables in the junction box, socket or lamp so that they go there from below or from the side, but not from above - a drop of condensate sliding along the braid can cause a short circuit.

All electrical appliances must have a moisture protection class of at least IP44 (preferably the maximum - IP54). Install simple fixtures - a metal case, only a glass cover. All connections of the internal wiring of the cable are only on the terminal block, no twists. And install an RCD in the shield, setting it to 30 mA.

For work in the electrical panel and installation of RCDs, be sure to invite a qualified electrician if you yourself are not one!

Installation of partitions, ceiling, interior decoration, installation of windows and doors

The internal partitions in the bath can be brick or wooden, with subsequent heat and moisture insulation in both cases. The partition between the washing room and the dressing room, in which the stove is installed, must be brick, or brick inserts are made in it with masonry in one brick - on the sides in contact with the stove body.

Interior decoration is usually carried out in cases where the bath itself is built of brick, stone or timber - here the decoration scheme is classic: insulation, vapor barrier film and lining. In addition, when performing exterior and interior decoration, you will have to rebuild the ventilation system of the bath, because the log logs will be covered with sheathing and will not be able to provide full ventilation.

The ceiling is formed in two layers - draft and finishing. The draft ceiling is attached to the horizontal roof joists, if necessary reinforced with intermediate beams. Its area is covered with insulation - expanded clay or slag. From the inside of the washing / steam room, insulation and a vapor barrier film are attached to the draft ceiling, after which the ceiling is covered with a fine finish - lime, pine tongue-and-groove board (20 mm thick - the thicker the board, the longer it will retain the woody smell).

In the bath, you need to arrange small windows (on average 500x700 mm) and cut them low - enough so that you can look out through them sitting on the bench. The windows in the bath are always double-glazed, depending on the size - with a window or fully hinged - for quick ventilation.

The doors in the bath rooms must be installed so that they open outward - for reasons of fire safety. The material for the door leaves is a tongue-and-groove board (40-50 mm) or a board with a selected quarter, the boards are fastened to the dowels. The size of the flaps must be deliberately reduced by 5 mm - more than necessary for the actual distance between the quarters of the jambs - otherwise, when the humidity rises, the flap will swell and it will be difficult to open (close) it. The optimal size of the door in the washing section of the bath is 600x1600 mm, in the steam room - 800x1500 mm, with a threshold height of about 300 mm above the floor (it is uncomfortable to walk, but it will keep warm). Hinges for hanging door leaves - brass, going into the dressing room (washing room) and into the washing room (steam room). Door handles - wooden (especially in the steam room).

The material for the shelves is linden, pine, poplar or aspen. The minimum length of the shelves is 1800 mm, the width is 500-800 mm. The distance between the “floors” of two-row shelves should be at least 350 mm, the minimum distance from the second row to the ceiling is 1100 mm.

The surface for lying is formed by a board with a width of 80 mm, a thickness of 40 mm, a gap of 15 mm wide is formed between the boards. A distance of 10 mm is maintained from the wall to the shelf. Boards for sheathing shelves are attached to a frame made of timber with a section of 50x70 mm in two ways: from above - with the help of nails, the caps of which are recessed into the tree; bottom with screws. For fastening choose nails and screws made of stainless steel or copper.

All corners in the design of the shelves are rounded, the surfaces are carefully cleaned with zero sandpaper.

For greater convenience, the shelves in the steam room are equipped with a headboard: the height at the beginning of the rise is 30 mm, the length of the headboard is 460 mm, the final maximum height is 190 mm.

When choosing a material for creating shelves, be careful - it is believed that knotty areas have a higher density and can lead to skin burns. Therefore, try to pick up boards and timber without knotty areas at all or with a minimum number of them.

Fire fighting measures

Protect the bathhouse from the threat of fire - lay a steel sheet in front of the furnace furnace, make sure that the furnace doors are securely fastened, install fire extinguishers nearby (a container with water, sand and fire extinguishers). Make sure that you can freely open the doors of the steam room and washing room when kindling the bath. Do not block passages, the space in front of doors and windows.

A trip to the dacha is a joyful event, since there you can do a garden or landscaping, and then relax, having a steam bath, provided that it is there. We will tell you how to make a bath in the country with your own hands, demonstrate drawings, diagrams and photo instructions. You'll have to work hard, but it's worth it.

In your imagination, you probably already see how you approach the bathhouse, open the door and find yourself in a warm and cozy dressing room, and then into the steam room. Yes! This is exactly what will happen, but a little later. First you need:

choose the right project;
get acquainted with the stages of construction;
purchase building materials;
build a bathhouse and bring all communications;
finish the interior and only then bathe.

If, after reading the introduction, you have not lost the desire to make a bath in the country, then we will continue the topic, considering all stages of construction.

Choosing a place for the construction of a bath

Often summer cottages do not differ large sizes, but in addition to personal preferences and convenience, there are norms that must be followed. Let's look at preferences first.

It would be better to put the bath on a hill, which will greatly simplify the organization of draining the water.
It is good when the bath is located next to a pond or river.
The rays of the setting sun penetrating the steam room through the window will relieve stress, but at the same time it is necessary to make sure that the entrance to the bath is clearly visible from the window country house. So you can watch the bathhouse being heated and the children, especially when a swimming pool is built in front of the entrance.
The bath can be made in the form of an extension to the house.

In order not to arise conflict situations with authorities or neighbors, the instructions of SNiP 30-02-97 must be observed. Paying attention to section 6, paragraphs 6, 7 and 8, you will find comprehensive information on the placement of the building on the site, but we will give only the numbers that you need in order to choose the best place for the bath.

Taking into account the fire safety measures for buildings located on opposite sides of the passage, the distances indicated in the table must be adhered to:

The material from which load-bearing and enclosing structures are made		The distance, which directly depends on the material used in the construction of the building


	The same buildings using wooden elements
	Wooden and similar structures

As for the requirements regarding distances to the neighboring site, they are also unambiguous.

It is also important to take into account the requirements for the location of buildings on your site - a shower, bath and sauna should be at least 8 m from the garden house.

By the way, non-compliance with these norms can lead to litigation with a neighbor and the demolition or transfer of the bath to another place.

Bath project

When choosing a bath project, it is important to consider the material from which it will be built. There can be several types of structure:

Frame bath.
Wooden bath (from timber or rounded logs).
Bath made of brick, stone or blocks.
Arbolite building.

Having decided on the material, when choosing a project, make sure that it suits you according to all the criteria.

Material selection

So, having chosen a suitable project, in accordance with its requirements, you need to prepare building materials.

Most often, summer residents prefer to build frame buildings, as they are the cheapest and successfully cope with their task. In addition, due to the low weight of such a design, the foundation also does not have to be spent much.
The most favorite buildings are wooden. The cost of such a building will be slightly higher, and the foundation will need to be made stronger, in contrast to the frame structure. A good wooden bathhouse built in the country does not need to be insulated.
Stone and brick are rarely used to build a bath in the country. This is due to the fact that such a heavy structure needs a strong foundation, and the walls freeze during long absences and such a bath needs to be warmed up for a long time. The exceptions are buildings made of foam and gas blocks. The requirements for the strength of the foundation are not so high, the walls turn out to be warm, but it is important to consider that this building material is very hygroscopic, so it must be protected from moisture.
Arbolit is also often used in the construction of baths. Walls can be monolithic or built from blocks. The structure is warm, durable and inexpensive.

Wall materials

Since our article deals with several options use of various building materials, we will consider them separately.

frame structure

The walls of such a bath are made in a lattice structure. For the walls of the frame you will need:

Timber of various sections, the dimensions and quantity of which are indicated in the project.
Insulating material with high thermal insulation qualities for filling the frame. Again, you need to adhere to the requirements regarding the use of one or another insulating material, but here you need to take into account that the documentation often indicates one type of material, but not all possible ones. If the specified material is too expensive, then you can refer to the forums to clarify what is acceptable in your area.
Material for sheathing the frame outside and inside. Most often, OSB boards, edged boards, siding or block house are used for the exterior cladding of a building, while lining is used from the inside.

wooden bath

For the construction of walls can be used:

Natural debarked tree.
Cut beam.
Profiled bar.
Glued beam.
Round log.

Bath made of brick, stone or blocks

The walls of such a bath can be made of the following materials:

Brick (ceramic or silicate).
Stone (quarrystone, limestone, shell rock).
Block (foam, slag, gas blocks).

Arbolite building

If it is possible to purchase sawdust inexpensively (or maybe you have your own), then at home it is quite possible to make arbolite blocks of fairly high quality. Also, this building material in the form of finished blocks is on sale. Walls are built very quickly. Another advantage of using wood concrete is the possibility of manufacturing monolithic walls by pouring cement-shaving mortar into the formwork.

Materials for the ceiling in the bath

The dressing room and the rest room are warm rooms, so it is recommended to use materials with low thermal conductivity - aspen, linden or alder.

For sheathing the ceiling of the steam room, it is preferable to use wooden lining because it can withstand high temperatures. Pine or spruce products should not be used in this room; when heated, resin begins to stand out from this wood. It is also impossible to hem the ceiling with sheets of fiberboard and chipboard, since moisture and heat contribute to the release of vapors that can be harmful to human health.

Materials for insulation and vapor barrier

It is advisable to perform external insulation only if the bath is heated. It is unlikely that someone will do such a luxury in the country, so we are considering materials for the internal insulation of an unheated bath.

The frame bath does not need to be insulated, since the thermal insulation is laid inside the structure. In a wooden bath, you need to make a crate into which a heater is inserted. Other types of baths need insulation made using more complex technology.

To perform the work, mineral wool is required, the thickness of which is selected depending on the material used in the construction of the bath and climatic conditions. Usually a layer of at least 50 mm is laid. Insulation can be in the form of mats or in rolls.

As for vapor barrier, it is important to know that this is not waterproofing. Each has its own purpose. Even an inexpensive vapor barrier will do its job, while waterproofing, used for other purposes, can nullify all the work.

What you especially need to pay attention to is not to get a fake.

Decoration Materials

Since we are talking about a bath in the country, we will not talk about chic types of finishes. The best option would be to use wood: lining or similar facing materials.

Concerning exterior finish, then it can be any material that is used for sheathing houses. If the bath is made of rounded logs, then it would be unreasonable to close the already beautiful facade with something else.

Bath construction

Now we will consider how the construction of a bathhouse in the country with our own hands can be done. It is clear that the work will be easier to do with an assistant, which may be one of the family members. At the initial stage of the work, some instructions can be given to children. Of course, they will not do everything and not as quickly as we would like, but if they feel that they are needed, then they will then be more careful about the bathhouse built with their participation.

But let's be realistic, small children will help a little, and if you build it alone, it will be a long-term construction, especially since some work cannot be done alone. As you read this article, you'll see when and how many helpers may be needed - this will help you plan everything.

markup

So, the plan has been chosen, the location has been decided, now let's start marking on the ground. To do this, in accordance with the scale specified in the project, transfer the contour of the bath to the area. In the place where the corner of the building will be, a long peg (or reinforcement) is hammered, and the lengths of two walls located at an angle of 90 ° are measured from it. The next pegs are hammered there, and the distances of other walls are measured from them. Finally, the last - the fourth peg is hammered.

Now, when there is a designated perimeter of the future structure, you need to check how straight the corners turned out. To do this, it is necessary to perform a check along the axes - measure the distance from one peg to another. The received data must match. If this is not the case, then the plane must be shifted, "shortening" the longest axis. After that, it will be necessary to check not only the axes, but also other dimensions, and, if necessary, correct them again.

If the foundation is tape, then a slight discrepancy can be left, but for a pile or column foundation, the marking must be very accurately done.

So we marked the dimensions of the bath in accordance with the design data. Further marking is performed depending on what the foundation will be. More details about this can be found in the table.

Foundation type	Where is it applied and how is markup performed
	This type of foundation, due to its high cost, is done only in cases where it cannot be dispensed with. Marking is carried out according to the size of the building or a little more when it is necessary that the foundation be wider and longer than the bath.
Tape	A very common type of foundation. Relatively inexpensive and durable. The marking is carried out in such a way that the tape filled with concrete passes along the perimeter of the building and under the walls.
Columnar	This type of foundation is also often found. It is mainly used for mounting wooden structures on it. Depending on the dimensions of the bath, the marking is carried out according to the number of manufactured supports.
Screw	It is believed that this type of foundation is new, but this is an erroneous conclusion based on the fact that it has recently been used in civil engineering. The screw foundation has stood the test of time, as the military has long begun to use it. The advantage of the foundation device on screw piles is the speed and ease of installation. The second advantage is that there is no need to carry out earthworks, so the site will remain clean. In addition, it can be used to build a bath even on a site with a significant slope. The marking is done according to the number of piles and no deviation to the side is allowed.

Weigh all the pros and cons, and then make the final decision regarding the choice of the type of foundation.

Foundation pouring

The manufacture of a shallow strip foundation is acceptable under the following conditions:

The soil in the area is dry and loose.
The groundwater level is quite low.
In winter, frosts are not very strong.
The buildings are not heavy.

Do not try to guess the type of foundation for a heavy structure. If you are not sure, then invite specialists who, after performing the appropriate checks, will give an accurate answer.

Let's start with a simpler and most commonly used shallow foundation for a bath.

We have external markings, now we need to make internal ones, taking into account the fact that the width of the foundation must be at least 50 cm, and must protrude beyond the building by 5-10 cm on each side. Therefore, if the bath is 3 × 4 m, then largest size along the outer perimeter will be 3.2 × 4.2 m.
It is important to take into account the installation location of the furnace and at the same time make the foundation for it.
For convenience, in the corners you need to install wooden structures similar to benches. They need to be set in the same plane along the height of the future formwork and a measuring cord should be attached to them. How to do this is shown in the illustration.

It is necessary to remove the fertile topsoil and put it aside, then dig a trench, the clay from which can then be used as a backfill.
As for the depth of the trench, in some cases it can be 35 cm. Much depends on the depth of freezing and the soil itself. It is necessary to dig to a solid clay layer and in no case stop on the ground. Therefore, most often the depth is in the range of 50–60 cm.
The bottom of the trench must be leveled by checking its horizontal level.
Now it's time for the sand bed. It is necessary to pour a layer of sand into the trench, at least 15 cm thick, moisten with water and compact well. To do this, it would be more convenient to use a vibrotamper, but it can also be done manually, using a heavy bar with handles nailed to it.
The next layer is poured with crushed stone of the middle fraction and also carefully rammed.
Now it's the turn of the formwork, the height of which should reach the stretched cord. It can be made from improvised materials or wood harvested for other purposes, since this temporary structure will be dismantled shortly after pouring the foundation. Finished shields must be installed along the trench and well fixed, otherwise the poured concrete may move them.

In order not to stain the boards, and so that the concrete does not flow out through the cracks, the formwork is closed from the inside with plastic wrap, which must be fixed with a stapler or thin nails.
Now you need to make a frame of metal or plastic fittings, fastened with knitting wire.

The fabricated frame should not reach the edges of 5 cm. It must be carefully lowered into the trench so as not to tear the film protecting the formwork. To raise the frame above the bedding, you need to put pieces of granite under it, since, unlike brick, it will not crumble under the influence of moisture.
If any communications pass through the foundation, then you need to leave holes for them, which will help the sleeves, as done in the photo above. The same applies to the manufacture of products.
Plan your time in such a way as to pour the foundation with concrete in a day, since breaks are not allowed here - then the tape will not be monolithic. It is convenient to deliver the concrete with a mixer and pour it directly from it, otherwise it will have to be kneaded in a concrete mixer, on the basis that M400 cement will need 1 bucket, sand - 3, crushed stone (or gravel) - 5 buckets.
The foundation poured with concrete should be compacted with a vibrator or bayoneted. After shrinkage, you need to add a little concrete and level the site. If a basis is made for wooden house, then in non-cured concrete it is necessary to fix the foundation bolts.
Not earlier than a week later, you can remove the formwork.

It should be remembered that concrete has not yet gained full strength, so it must be handled with care or wait 28 days, and only then build a bath.

Video: building a foundation for a bath

Wall masonry

When building a bath from blocks, stone or brick, you need to level the foundation with a cement-sand mortar, and lay a roofing material folded in half on it. Masonry starts from the corners. Having installed the first blocks on the cement-sand mortar, you need to make sure that they are in the same plane, and only after that a twine is pulled along the upper outer edge, which serves as a guide for laying a number of building materials.

When laying the next row masonry mixture may vary: cement-sand mortar a wall of brick and shell rock is being erected, while mixtures recommended by the manufacturer are used for laying lightweight blocks.

Having installed the jumpers above the doors and windows, you need to install the formwork on top and make an armored belt, fixing the foundation bolts in it for the subsequent fastening of the Mauerlat board. After the concrete has hardened, it will be possible to proceed with the manufacture of the roof.

The construction of the frame of the bath

The basis of such a bath is a wooden frame, which is insulated and sheathed. various types finishing materials. Need to choose quality materials and observe the sequence of their installation.

For the manufacture of the frame, boards from well-dried larch, aspen or linden will be needed, because this wood has low thermal conductivity. The manufactured shields will be resistant to deformation.

On the foundation, a frame of the lower trim is made from a beam of 100 × 100 mm. At the ends of the bars, you need to make cuts in half the thickness and fasten them together with self-tapping screws. If bars 50 × 100 mm are used, then the frame can be assembled end-to-end using metal corners. The dimensions of the bar used depend on the type of foundation, design and size of the bath.

At the next stage, the end strapping board is installed, and the floor logs are attached to it right next to it. A beam of 50 × 100 mm is used.
On the opposite side, the logs are cut in such a way that a second end strapping board can be installed.
The logs must be arranged so that the prepared insulation becomes close between them, then the end strapping boards are nailed.
The wall frame is assembled from a 50 × 100 mm beam, and then installed in its place, all parts are fastened into a single structure.

To ensure the vapor barrier of the frame bath, you need to use a vapor barrier film, which will avoid the accumulation of moisture inside the frame. Mineral wool or fiberglass is used as a heat-insulating material. They are able to provide a high level of sealing without disturbing the natural air exchange.

It is preferable to carry out insulation and wall cladding after the installation of the roof. This approach will protect the wood and insulation from getting wet.

Floor

If in the frame bath it remains only to insulate the floor and lay the floorboard, then for other buildings you will have to work harder - you need to install logs, make a subfloor, fix the vapor barrier, lay insulation, perform waterproofing, lay the floorboard, which will have to be changed in a few years. Considering that the dacha in the dacha will not be thoroughly dried due to the lack of time for this, because after the weekend you will need to quickly leave for the city, then if there is such an opportunity, it would be preferable to make a concrete floor and tile it. Wooden shields are laid on it, which can be taken out to dry in a barn and calmly go home.

It is clear that for a frame and other structure installed on a columnar or pile foundation, only a wooden floor with insulation is acceptable. This process is described in more detail in the next two videos.

Video: how to install floor beams, make insulation and provide a drain in the bath

roof construction

Above any bath there should be a reliable roof, but the options for creating it can be different. In any case, you need to lay waterproofing, and then thermal insulation, think about the type of roof and the choice of a suitable roofing material. Without waterproofing, steam will freely penetrate into the attic, and, settling on beams and rafters, will contribute to their rapid destruction. In addition, the condensate formed on the roofing material will begin to drain onto the insulation, which will affect the properties and durability of the latter.

The type of terrain has a great influence on the choice of the type of roof, since the technical parameters of the structure must be taken into account.

So, in a holiday village, especially when it is located among tall trees, you can safely make a high gable roof.
If the cottage is located in the steppe zone, blown by all the winds, then the slope for the roof must be made minimal.
With small sizes of baths and minor snow loads, the roof can be made single-pitched. The same roof is most often made in a bath attached to the house.

Video: how to make a bath roof

Interior and exterior decoration

Although wood is most often used for interior decoration, not all wood is suitable for this purpose. It is necessary to choose the right material, especially for a steam room, in which a high temperature is created with high humidity. It should be said right away that pine lumber, as well as fiberboard, chipboard and linoleum, cannot be used to finish this room. Therefore, you need to purchase lining made of larch or linden.

As for other premises, the conditions there are not so extreme, and therefore there are no such high demands to the material used - what cannot be used in a steam room is perfect for a rest room and dressing room. Pine lining in the dressing room will exude a pleasant aroma and create a feeling of comfort.

Finishing a wooden and brick bath with clapboard is almost the same. First, a crate is attached to the wall, and a lining is already attached to it. An exception is the steam room, in which there should be heat-reflecting foil under the crate.

Exterior decoration is carried out not only to make the bath beautiful, but also to protect it. To finish the bath from the outside, you can use the following materials:

Imitation of a bar.
Siding.
Clapboard.
Block house.
Facade tiles.
Dye.

You just have to choose the right material and finish the facade.

Ventilation in the bath

Sometimes there is still such an opinion that good ventilation in the steam room is useless, since all the heat comes out through it, and it is made very weak, or it is completely absent. But there is another extreme, when the ventilation process is not controlled, and the heat escapes from the bath. In such a steam room at the top it is very hot, and the legs are cold.

In fact, while taking bath procedures, the air in the room should be updated 2-3 times per hour, but this is not enough, since ventilation must be done correctly. Usually the inlet is located at the bottom near the boiler, and the exhaust is under the ceiling on the opposite side. While the steam room is warming up, the exhaust window is closed. Then it opens, and warm air begins to rapidly leave the room. As a result, the steam room becomes cool and uncomfortable. You can make ventilation, as in the diagram.

Such a device allows you to keep warm air under the ceiling, and half-cooled air comes out through the hole located below (B), so it will be comfortable in the steam room. When the steam room needs to be thoroughly ventilated, the top vent (A) opens.

In addition to the steam room, ventilation is necessary in every room of the bath. In order not to waste precious heat in vain, you can make it so that it is possible to close ventilation holes during those hours when there is no need for ventilation.

Furniture

The canopy and all the furniture for the country bath can be made independently. If there is no desire to make something else, then the network has many offers for the sale of everything you need to give.

With a strong desire to save on furniture, you can review old stocks. Maybe there is something that needs to be repaired, but does not get around to it? After a little restoration, such furniture can last a long time. The main requirement is not to use chipboard furniture, as this material will deteriorate very quickly from high humidity.

Schemes

Photo: original baths

When hiring construction team the cost of construction will double, so if you have at least basic skills, it is better to start building a bath with your own hands. First of all, you need to decide on a building plan. You can make your own or use ready-made drawings and choose the design that is most suitable in size.

Building registration

No permit is required for the construction of ancillary facilities on a private property. However, after the construction is completed, the building must be registered with the BTI.

Regulated distance between buildings

Calculation of the amount of materials

Most often, baths are built from solid or rounded logs of coniferous species, thick-walled timber, wood concrete or bricks. In recent years, foam concrete has also been used for construction. However, wood is considered the best material for it. Even in the hottest heated bath from this environmentally friendly material, it will be easy and free to breathe.

Rounded log, regular and profiled timber

The construction of a bathhouse from chopped, rounded logs and timber

Building shrinkage

Collect building from a bar preferably in winter. The fact is that in winter, moisture freezes out more slowly, and the deformation of the material occurs more evenly. By the end of summer, the main subsidence is almost over, and it will be possible to start finishing.

Foundation construction

If ground water on the selected site are deep enough, it makes sense to use a conventional strip foundation. A pile or screw foundation is erected only with a close occurrence of water.

Tape and pile foundations for a bath

Laying the first crown

1. The overhead (first) crown, which is closest to the ground, needs reliable waterproofing. To do this, 2-3 layers of roofing material or other material based on bitumen are laid between it and the base. On top of it, short slats of 15 mm, treated with an antiseptic, are placed in the transverse direction, and only then the logs are laid out.

Laying direction of the rails

Corner joints of log cabins

The corners between adjacent walls can be connected in log cabins in different ways:

Corner joints of log cabins

Log house assembly

1. The logs should fit together as tightly as possible. The seams between them are laid with a sealant: tow or jute. The gap between the flashing crown and the foundation is additionally sealed with brick, mounting foam, halves of logs or bars. It is also possible to provide filling multi-level foundation, which will prevent the appearance of cracks.

Foundation with different levels

Pigtail for windows and grooves in window openings for her

Do-it-yourself bath construction step by step, video, photo

Therefore, if you have at least elementary skills, it is better to start building a bath with your own hands.

Building a bath with your own hands: step by step instructions

Before engaging in the construction of a bath, you need to draw up a detailed step-by-step instruction for the work, in which you should take into account all the nuances of the technology for building a bath complex.

The step-by-step instructions that are used in the construction of the bath can differ significantly depending on the materials used for installation and the characteristics of the soil at the construction site.

In the process of building a bath complex, a variety of materials can be used for work. Depending on the type of foundation, for example, metal and asbestos-cement pipes can be used when laying a pillar foundation or cement-concrete mortar and metal reinforcement when erecting a strip foundation. For the construction of walls, the following building materials can be used:

The most popular material used in the construction of the structure of the bath complex is timber. This material is also considered the most practical and convenient to use.

The use of timber can significantly save money on the construction of the foundation. In the case of the construction of a bath complex from a bar, it is allowed to lay a light foundation. The use of timber allows you to build a building that practically does not shrink, and during the installation process it is not required to carry out additional adjustment of structural elements.

Building a bath using step-by-step instructions allows you to avoid almost all errors during the installation process and build an excellent bath complex with your own with my own hands, without the involvement of specialists from outside. Step-by-step instructions for building a bath greatly facilitate the installation process, even for those homeowners who have minimal knowledge and skills in the field of construction.

Choosing a place for the construction of a bath complex

Step-by-step instructions for the construction of a bath at the initial stage involves the selection of a place for work and preparation of a construction site. The ideal option is the choice of a place for the construction of a bath at the stage of planning the placement of objects on a private land plot. Very common when available small area the bath complex has to be combined with some outbuildings, for example, such as a toilet and a summer kitchen. In some cases, the bath is combined with a residential building. Bath complexes of this type are quite complex, and their development requires the involvement of professional designers of residential buildings.

When designing a structure and determining the place of its construction, it is necessary to take into account some natural factors that influence both the choice of the location of the construction site and the layout of the bath complex:

the level of occurrence of subsoil waters;
determination of areas flooded during the onset of floods;
location of a natural reservoir;
prevailing wind direction and precipitation patterns;

Groundwater level is easy to determine on their own. For this purpose, holes should be dug at the corners of the location of the construction site at least a meter deep and, after a while, check whether water has appeared in them or not. The level of occurrence of subsoil waters affects the choice of the type of foundation for the construction of a bath complex.

The best option for choosing a site for all construction and installation work is a hill located at a short distance from a natural reservoir.

Building on a hill allows you to avoid flooding during floods. The distance to a natural reservoir should not be less than 15 m, and in the absence of an elevated platform, the distance to the reservoir should be at least 30 m.

In the process of selecting a site for construction, it should be foreseen that the distance to the boundary of the site from the construction site should not be less than a meter. In addition, the site for the construction of a bath should be placed at a distance of 15 m from existing buildings.

Tools and building materials necessary for the construction of a bath

Before building a bath, when developing step-by-step instructions, after choosing a place for building a structure, you should decide on the materials and tools necessary for construction work.

The most popular material is timber. It has a whole range of advantages. The most convenient in work is a kind of wood beam - profiled beam. This material is resistant to deformation. When building a bath from a bar, you will need to prepare the following building materials:

timber having a section of 15x15 for mounting external walls;
timber with a section of 15x10 for installation work on the construction of partitions inside the building;
cement-concrete solution for the construction of the foundation;
reinforcement for reinforcing the foundation;
building materials for waterproofing;
crushed stone to create a blind area;
timber for creating sex logs and floors;
materials for insulation;
materials for interior decoration;
materials for creating steam and thermal insulation;
roofing materials.

The list of tools needed in the process of work includes a shovel, a hacksaw, an ax, a hand electric drill, a hammer, tools for laying interventional insulation and a mallet.

Building a bath with your own hands

The next point of the step-by-step construction instructions for the construction of the bath complex is the construction work itself.

The whole range of required construction work can be divided into several stages. The main stages of construction are the following:

construction site marking and site preparation;
laying the foundation;
arrangement of the blind area;
erection of the walls of the bath complex;
ceiling installation;
assembly of load-bearing roof structures;
installation of roofing material;
installation of hydro, steam and thermal insulation;
assembly of communications in the premises;
laying the floor;
installation of finishing material.

It should be remembered that after the construction of the foundation foundation, it needs to be given time to gain maximum strength. When using a strip foundation, the period of gaining maximum strength with a cement-concrete mortar is 28 days.

Before proceeding with the installation of the walls, it is necessary to ensure the laying of high-quality waterproofing on the surface of the foundation between it and the first crown of the walls. High-quality waterproofing will significantly extend the service life of the building of the bath complex without major repairs.

After the installation of the walls of the building is completed, the assembly and installation of load-bearing roof structures is carried out. Features of the supporting structure of the roof depend on the configuration of the roof.

When the roof is mounted, they begin to install utilities and the floor in the premises, at the same stage steam, hydro and thermal insulation is installed.

Carrying out interior decoration and insulation of the bath complex

Ceiling insulation small bath can be carried out in a flat way. For this, hardwood lumber is used. Boards up to 50 mm thick are sewn onto the ceiling, after which a layer of vapor barrier material is fixed on them. Foil material is perfect for this purpose. A layer of insulation is applied and fixed on top of the vapor barrier layer. Mineral wool can be used as a heater. After laying the mineral wool, it closes protective layer foil material. The last stage of work with the ceiling will be the installation of finishing material.

If during the construction of the bath complex a beam of sufficient thickness was used, then you can do without installing a heater on inside walls of the bath complex. In this case, before finishing, a layer of vapor and waterproofing is strengthened on the walls of the bath, on which finishing material. If the thickness of the beam is insufficient, then the insulation of the walls inside the bath is carried out similarly to the insulation of the ceiling.

Insulation of the floor in the bath room can be done using expanded clay.

For finishing inner space For a bath room, it is best to use a lining made of wood that does not have structural defects. The material is fastened with small nails.

Compliance with their sequence during the construction process allows you to build a high-quality structure that will delight the owner for a long time.

Affordable and step-by-step instructions for building a bath

Step-by-step instructions for building a bath. This instruction will help to avoid problems when planning and building a bath on your site.

Building a bath with your own hands

Do you want to build a bath, but do not know what material is best to use to implement your idea? Then be sure to pay attention to the beam. A bath made of this material will be environmentally friendly, reliable and durable. At the same time, you can handle the construction of such a structure with your own hands.

Building a bath with your own hands

Advantages of timber construction

There is absolutely nothing complicated in the self-construction of a bath from a bar. This material has many advantages over its closest analogue - a rounded log (log). Among the main advantages of the beam, the following points should be noted:

all work on the construction and further finishing of a bath from a bar can be performed without the help of third-party specialists;
timber gives minimal shrinkage compared to all other wood-based materials;
building a bath from a bar will require a much more modest cash investment compared to most other popular materials;
prefabricated timber may initially have fasteners and you just have to assemble individual elements into the design right size like a constructor.

However, in order for a bath from a bar to fully show all its advantages and serve for the longest possible time, you must approach the choice of building material responsibly and competently.

What kind of timber can be used to build a bath?

The most important operational parameters of the finished steam room directly depend on the quality of the wood. First of all, pay attention that the logs are intact. No cracks or other defects are allowed. Even minor damage can lead to big trouble in the future, as a result of which the wood will rot and collapse.

Profiles of logs and beams

Make sure that there are no blue spots on the surface of the wood. Such defects indicate the presence of rot inside the material, the development of which in most cases is provoked by a variety of pathogens. It is impossible to use such material for the construction of a steam room and any other building.

There should be no noticeable signs of damage by beetles and other pests on the timber.

High-quality timber has a perfectly flat and smooth surface. It is strongly recommended to refrain from buying material with distortions and any other damage - when laying the crowns, all deviations will clearly appear.

Bath building guide

Pre-compile yourself, order or find a bath project in an open source. Calculate the required amount of building materials according to the project and proceed with the construction of a bath from a bar. Start by arranging the base.

The first stage is the foundation

The finished steam room made of wood will have a relatively small weight, which makes it possible to refuse the arrangement of monolithic buried foundation structures. A structure made of timber will feel great on an ordinary strip or column foundation.

To equip the base of the tape type, dig a trench around the perimeter and under the walls of the future building, fill the bottom of the pit with sand and gravel, lay the reinforcing mesh, install the formwork and pour concrete. The optimal depth of the foundation is 70-100 cm. When choosing a specific depth, be guided by the soil freezing rates for your region.

Strip foundation - construction procedure

The structure of a monolithic strip foundation

The foundation should rise above the ground by at least 50 cm - this will provide the necessary protection of the lower rims from excessive dampness.

Inside the perimeter of the strip base, pour strips of sand and gravel. In the future, you can fill them with concrete or build a wooden floor - choose a specific option at your discretion.

To equip a columnar foundation, it is necessary to erect supports made of bricks or concreted asbestos pipes along the perimeter, in the corners and under future interior walls baths. Under each such support, a concrete “cushion” should be pre-arranged. Place the posts in 150 cm increments.

The device of the supporting-columnar foundation

Regardless of the type of base chosen, it is in without fail subject to additional reinforcement.

Features of a columnar foundation with a grillage

Varieties of schemes for constructing a columnar foundation

Let the concrete gain strength for 3-5 weeks and proceed with further work.

The second stage - waterproofing the foundation

Waterproofing strip foundation with a special compound

Apply molten bitumen to the surface of the base, and a layer of roofing material on it. Let the bitumen harden and repeat the operations. As a result, you will get a reliable two-layer moisture protection.

Before proceeding with further work, soak all wooden elements with an antiseptic. Such processing should be carried out after the preparation of cuts for fastening the beams, if such cuts were absent initially.

The third stage - the first crown

Proceed to laying the first crown of walls. To do this, first lay the slats up to 1.5 cm thick, pre-treated with an antiseptic, on a waterproofed base. Lay the slats in increments of about 30 cm.

Laying the first crown of timber

Lay the first crown of bars on the slats. Thanks to the slats, the contact of the beam with the foundation of the bath will be excluded. This will provide additional protection against wood decay and will significantly extend the life of the material.

Scheme of assembling the first crown of a log house for a house from a bar

Lay the first crown so far without fixing. Make sure that it is laid correctly and evenly with a square and a level.

If necessary, align the lower crown beams, and then attach them to the foundation. There are several mounting methods. The most optimal and frequently used method involves fixing the beam with anchor bolts.

However, quite often, developers refuse to attach the lower beam to the foundation. In practice, the design stands perfectly even without fixing the lower crown, held by its own weight. The advantage of this solution is that in the future, if necessary, the beam of the lower crown can be replaced with much less effort.

Blow out the space between the first crown and the base with mounting foam.

Do-it-yourself log bath

Fourth stage - the rest of the crowns

For laying out the walls of the bath, a wooden beam with a section of 15x15 cm is perfect.

Cover the first crown of the beam with heat-insulating material. For insulation, jute or moss is traditionally used. You can also use tow. In the case of moss or tow, the thermal insulation should be laid out with a 10 cm overlap at the edges. In the future, you will use the raised edges for the caulk.

How to build a bath from a bar

Lay the second crown of the beam and fix it with wooden dowels. Pre-drill mounting holes of the appropriate diameter. Usually the length of one dowel is enough to fasten 2-3 rows of timber.

Lay out the walls of the required height. Every 3-4 rows, check the construction with a square and a building level. Place a sealant between the crowns.

How to assemble the walls of the log house

The top two crowns do not need to be fixed. The wood will shrink. Ceiling beams can be mounted only after the completion of wood shrinkage. To install the beams, the upper crowns will need to be dismantled.

Fifth stage - door and window openings

How to make door and window openings

There are two options for arranging openings for mounting doors and installing windows.

In accordance with the first option, the said holes are created after the construction of the log bath is completed. To do this, you must first leave small gaps in the crowns at the installation sites of doors and windows. The dimensions of the gaps depend on the dimensions of the installed products.

Door and window openings

After the construction of the bath is completed, you will simply have to make openings for mounting doors and windows with a chainsaw.

In accordance with the second method, openings for doors and windows must be left during the construction of the bath. This option requires more time and effort. To accomplish the task, you will need to use special grooves and bars with end cuts.

The sixth stage - caulking

Leave the finished timber box for "wintering" for a duration of 6-7 months. During this time, the wood will give sufficient shrinkage. For the period of "wintering" cover the beam with boards and slate.

If you used tow or moss as an interventional sealant, you can skip this step in the instructions - you will most likely not need additional caulking for your timber bath.

However, experts still recommend studying the state of the structure. If noticeable gaps are found, be sure to caulk. To do this, twist the tow or moss into a bundle and twist the material into the gap, followed by compaction.

You can also use jute sealant to fill the gaps. By most indicators, this material is superior to tow and moss, but it costs a little more.

Stage seven - the roof

The roof should become a reliable protection for your timber bath. The arrangement of the roof structure can only be started after the wood shrinks, otherwise the roof will lead and it will be significantly deformed.

First step. Lay down wooden beams over the top wall trim.

Second step. Attach to fixed beams rafter legs in increments of 100 cm. To connect the rafters in the ridge part of the roof, cut them at the required angle.

Installation of a gable roof for a bath

Third step. Nail a solid flooring of boards to the rafters (if soft roll material will be used for finishing) or build a crate (if you plan to trim the roof with tiles, slate or other sheet material).

Methods for connecting rafters

Fourth step. Mount the final roofing in accordance with the instructions for the selected material.

How is the roof of the bath

Fifth step. Cover the roof ridge with galvanized iron. This will protect it from adverse environmental influences.

Sixth step. Sew up the gables of the roof with suitable improvised materials - clapboard, wooden board or siding. At this point, focus on your individual preferences.

After the completion of the roofing work, proceed to the insulation and other insulation work, interior decoration and arrangement of the steam room in accordance with your project.

Building a bath with your own hands - step by step instructions!

Learn how to build a bath with your own hands. A detailed guide to the construction of timber structures. Photo + video.

Baths have come to our days since ancient times. Even in the era of the Scythians, mobile heaters and special tents were very popular. And in our time, even with the advent of a shower and a bath, the Russian bath has not become less common. It is visited not only in order to get satisfaction, but also in order to cleanse the body of harmful substances, improve overall health and get rid of diseases.

Now there are a variety of options for building a bath. It is popular to build a bath from foam blocks with your own hands, from a bar, frame-panel materials, a log house, a log.

Before starting work, building a bathhouse may seem like a very difficult task to many, but when a detailed plan is drawn up, it turns out that the phased construction of a bathhouse with your own hands is nothing difficult. There is a lot of work, but if you design the structure correctly and perform the work one after another (in stages), then over time you will be able to see your dream come true.

As you know, the bath has huge benefits for human health. Regular visits to it can significantly increase the tone of the body and improve it, as well as get rid of some diseases. The complexity of the issue lies in the fact that if you do not have your own bathhouse, then you have to visit paid establishments. And this implies additional cash costs, you have to adapt to the schedule of her work, neglect the rules of personal hygiene, because you never know who steamed in it in front of you and how it was then cleaned. Of course, it all depends on the institution itself, but nevertheless, these factors create a certain discomfort for lovers of steam rooms. In this regard, many have the idea of \u200b\u200bbuilding their own bathhouse.

Initially, this idea may seem unsuccessful, because a lot of work needs to be invested. But when the first elements begin to be built, then a do-it-yourself bathhouse, the phased construction of which will already be planned, will rise before the eyes of the dreamer in a ready-made way, which will serve as an incentive to continue on the path to your goal.

Do-it-yourself frame bath construction

Before you start building a frame bath with your own hands, you should decide on a project that is suitable for bath procedures, which means that it must ensure heat conservation in the walls of the bath. Then, after the construction of the frame, insulation work is carried out.

The bath from such material has a number of advantages. It heats up quickly and retains heat for a long time if a sufficient amount of insulation has been installed. The cost of frame materials is relatively low. This was the reason for the increase in popularity for this type of construction of baths.

Construction of a bath from a bar

Many people choose to build a bath from a bar with their own hands, as the advantages of this material, to put it mildly, inspire confidence.

The raw materials for the material are ordinary trees, which means it is environmentally friendly. In addition, being in such a bath is very pleasant and useful.

The construction process, provided that the foundation is ready, takes a little time; such a bath will serve for many years.

Do-it-yourself turnkey construction of a bath from a bar in Krasnoyarsk.

As a rule, the building is divided into three sections: a room for a guy, washing and rest.

Do-it-yourself construction of a wooden bathhouse from a log house

The material for construction is rounded logs, which are pre-processed and ready to go to the construction site.

Bath from a turnkey log house

Usually, logs are purchased from manufacturers who number them. The task of the builders will be to stack the logs in right order. It is possible to erect a building both according to a standard and according to an individual project.

Bath construction plan

Before starting construction, it is necessary to draw up a plan for the future building, prepare drawings. To do this, you must first determine the size, which depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe plot allocated for construction. Then you can calculate the dimensions of the rooms.

A full-fledged bath includes a dressing room, rooms for a guy and washing (combined or not).

In order to understand the stages of construction and draw up a plan, you can find materials on this topic on the net. You just need to enter a request, for example: we build a bathhouse with our own hands, a phased demonstration of construction. After viewing the results, everything will become much clearer.

The main stages of the construction of the bath

Do-it-yourself step-by-step construction of a bath implies the implementation of each new stage after the completion of the previous one. In this case, a complex, at first glance, the process will seem time-consuming, but easy.

To understand how to build a bathhouse with your own hands in stages, a video from the Internet will help best. Or you have a familiar builder who can show and suggest. In any case, it is not worth starting work without first looking at what and how is being done.

Preparation of materials for the construction of a bath with their own hands

The most popular are the baths built of wood. They have many advantages over structures built from other materials.

Logs and several lower rows can be made from oak, which will positively affect the durability of the building. Further, four rows are laid out with logs from larch, and the last rows from linden or white spruce.

To build a bath, you need to use the middle part of the trunk, which must be dry and sanded. As a rule, wood is prepared in winter, due to the fact that it is not as wet as in warm seasons and dries faster.

Preparation of the foundation for the bath

When building a bath with your own hands, the foundation deserves special attention.

In order to choose what type of foundation to build, you need to determine the type of soil on the site.

A columnar (pile) foundation is built on slightly heaving soils. As a rule, pillars are installed at the joints of walls, both external and internal. If the distance between them is more than 2 meters, then another pole should be installed in the middle. The installation depth should not be less than 1.5 m and protrude another 30-40 cm from the ground.

The distance between the pillars is laid out with a brick, which deepens about 25 cm into the ground.

On heaving soil, a strip foundation is poured. To do this, you need to mark the area and dig a trench. Then fill the bottom with a layer of gravel and sand. After that, you need to erect the formwork, and pour concrete.

The depth of the trenches should be at least 40 cm, the width should be 30 cm. The foundation should protrude above the ground by about 15 cm. When pouring, be sure to use fittings.

Bath foundation waterproofing

The next stage is the implementation of waterproofing and the construction of the basement. To do this, use a brick, roofing material, pipe, masonry mesh, masonry mortar and mastic.

The device of the floor in the bath

For the floor, you can use clay, earth, wood or concrete.

IN different rooms bath floors should be at different heights. In the steam room, the floor is 15 cm higher than in the washing room, in which the floors are 3 cm lower than in the dressing room.

The most practical option is the construction of a concrete floor with a ceramic coating.

How to make a floor in the bath

Sewerage in the bath

To drain wastewater from the bathhouse, you need to dig a well for it, a pit with a water seal and install pipes. All this must be built in accordance with the technology to ensure long-term trouble-free operation. Pipes need to be taken plastic, not iron.

Installation of a log house, a roof for a bath

If the bath frame was made by professionals, then it must be laid according to the numbers indicated on the logs.

Do-it-yourself construction of the bath roof is carried out using rafters, which are sheathed with boards, and then upholstered with roofing materials.

How to build a roof on a bath

Caulker of a bath house

To seal the gaps between the logs and insulate the walls of the house, you need to perform a caulk. To do this, you need hemp hemp, wool felt, linen tow and red moss.

You can also take factory materials, which have their advantages in the form of resistance to fungus and moths.

Installing the stove in the bath

Sauna stoves can be made of brick, cast iron or steel. Depending on the type of heating, they are wood, electric, gas or liquid fuel.

Kamenka stoves are equipped with a special chamber in which stones of different weights are placed.

Installation of a stove for a bath, insulation of the ceiling and walls in the bath

Plumbing and electricity in the bath

Water, as a rule, is supplied to the bath from a well or well.

The supply of electricity is practically no different from the supply to an ordinary house. It is only necessary that the characteristics of cables and devices comply with fire safety standards and be waterproof, as well as resistant to high humidity.

Internal finishing work in the bath

Partitions in the bath room are made of brick or wood.

The ceiling is made in two layers. The first, which is attached to the lags, is rough, the second is finishing.

The windows in the bath are set small and not very high.

Doors must open outwards. The material for the manufacture of doors is sheet pile board with a thickness of 40-50 mm.

Bath shelves are made of linden, pine, aspen or poplar. There should be no knots, as they heat up more and can cause burns.

If someone is interested in “do-it-yourself bath building video”, which will show how it is done, you can find it on the Internet without much difficulty and build yourself a building that you can only dream of

How to build a bathhouse step by step with your own hands (Video instructions)

A complete step-by-step guide on how to build a wireframe, from and to, with your own hands, wooden bath or frame bath. Video from the masters and tips for warming baths